TRAVELS 



in 



TURKEY, ASIA-MINOR, SYRIA, 



AND 



ACROSS THE DESERT 



INTO 



EGYPT 

DURING THE YEARS 1 799, 1800, AND 1801, 

IN COMPANY WITH 

THE TURKISH ARMY, 

AND 

THE BRITISH MILITARY MISSION. 

TO WHICH ARE ANNEXED, 

OBSERVATIONS ON THE PLAGUE, AND ON THE DISEASES PREVALENT IN TURRET, 
AND A METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL. 



BY WILLIAM WITTMAN, M. D. 

OF THE ROYAL ARTILLERY, 

Member of she Royal College of Surgeons in London, and Surgeon to the British Military 
Mission adting with the Army of the Grand Vizier. 



PRINTED FOR RICHARD PHILLIPS, NO. 71, ST. PAUL'S CHURCH YARD. 

By T. Gillet, Salilbury Square. 

1803. 



J 




\ X 



TO HIS EXCELLENCY 

THE RIGHT HONOURABLE 

THE EARL OF ELGIN, 

HIS MAJESTY'S AMBASSADOR EXTRAORDINARY AT THE OTTOMAN PORTE, $c. 4c, 

MY LORD, 

THE attention, fo honourable to 
your Lordfhip's feelings, with which I, as well as others 
of our countrymen, was favoured by your Lordfhip, 
while in the dominions of the Grand Seignor, has ex- 
cited in me fentiments of gratitude, for the public ex- 
preffion of which I hope to be forgiven. 

It is under this impreflion that I have prefumed to 
prefix your Lordfhip's name to a work, which is the 
refult of my obfervations and inquiries while in thofe 
countries. If it mould ferve to record the hofpitable 
and liberal conduct of your Lordfhip, in your public 
capacity, and the refpect and efteem which that con- 



( iv ) 

duct could not fail to excite in its Author ; and if, at 
the fame time, it mould in any degree, contribute to 
your Lordfhip's amufement, it will be a fubjecl: of 
permanent fatisfaction to 

MY LORD, 
Your Lordfhip's obliged Servant, 

THE AUTHOR. 

Woolwich, April, 1803. 



PREFACE 



TN the prefent multiplicity of books, to obtrude a new work upon 
the Public argues an opinion in the Author, that it either contains 
?fome new information, or if the matter is old, that it is in a drefs 
which is both original and advantageous. To the latter the writer 
of thefe pages makes no pretenfions ; with refpeel to the former, the 
fault is his own if the work ihould be found to contain no informa- 
tion but what is already familiar to his countrymen. 

Attached in a profeffional capacity to the Britifh Military Miffion 
which accompanied the army of the Grand Vizier in its route 
through Turkey, Syria, and Egypt, during the late memorable cam- 
paign, he was certainly in a fituation peculiarly advantageous for 
obferving the manners, cuftoms, and habits of the Turkifh nation, 
not only in peace, but in war. His profeffion afforded him many- 
opportunities for improving thefe advantages, by an intimate com- 
munication not only with the Grand Vizier himfelf, but with the 
principal perfonages of the Ottoman empire. 

In the courfe of his travels, he faw many things which, to him at 
leaft, were uncommon ; and he was in the habit (partly to relieve 



vi PREFACE. 

his mind from the irkfomenefs of his fituation, and partly in the 
hope of gratifying his particular friends) to note down whatever ap- 
peared worthy of remark. On communicating thefe notes to thofe 
for whom they were originally intended, it was their wifti to fee 
them in print, as containing matter which, according to their partial 
opinion, was calculated to intereft a ftill wider circle. Such a tafk, 
when he commenced his journal, he did not expect he mould have 
to encounter ; and this ftatement, in every refpect confonant to 
truth, he trulls will fhield him from the feverity of criticifm, which, 
is moft properly directed againft fuch publications as are, from the 
firft, intended to challenge the approbation of the Public. 

He cannot flatter himfelf with the hope that thefe pages will be 
found equally agreeable to all readers. To fome they will appear in 
parts defective, as they undoubtedly are ; to others, the Author may 
feem occafionally prolix, in recording the particulars of conven- 
tions held with different individuals, either on the civil or on the 
military ftate of the countries in which he refided. Yet thofe books 
arc perhaps the moft inftru&ive, and not the leaft entertaining, 
which record things as they really happened. " Truth," fays an ad- 
mired author, "needs no ornament; and in my opinion what me 
" borrows from the pencil is deformity." 

His profcffional duties led the Author to pay a particular and a 
minute attention to the climate and to the maladies of which it is 



PREFACE. vii 

productive. That dreadful difeafe, which has been emphatically 
denominated the Plague, was neceflarily a prominent object in this 
fatal catalogue ; and, unfortunately for the army which he accom- 
panied, few Europeans have had equal opportunities of witneffing 
its ravages. The information which he was able to obtain from the 
practitioners of the country he endeavoured carefully to compare 
with the facts which fell under his own obfervation : and he has 
laboured to diveft himfelf of every prejudice in investigating the 
caufes and nature of a malady which has depopulated whole coun- 
tries, and deftroyed myriads of perfons in a fhort period of time ; 
which bids defiance to every fyftem, and baffles the fkill of the ableft 
profeffors of the medical art. 

In the orthography of names, whether of perfons or of places, and 
of thofe local terms which relate to the particular ufages of the 
countries he vifited, the Author has not adhered to any written au- 
thority. In thefe cafes there is a general difagreement among the 
learned : no rule has been eftablifhed ; nor is it practicable to a 
foreigner to refer to etymology in languages in which he cannot be 
profoundly verfed. He has therefore purfued that method which, 
if not the moft correct, was that which he could with moft fafety 
and convenience adopt, to be governed by the ear, and to note down 
thefe names as they were delivered by thofe to whom their oral ufe 
and general application had rendered them familiar. 



viii PREFACE. 

The Author concludes this Preface with an act of juftice. His 
grateful acknowledgments are due to Lieutenant-colonel (now Sir 
Charles) Holloway, and to Major Hope, for a copious fupply of ufeful 
and interefting matter ; alfo to Mr. Spilfbury, late furgeon of his 
Majcfty's {hip the Tigre, for feveral accurate Iketches taken by that 
gentleman upon the fpot ; and to Mr. Read, draughtfman, for his 
accurate fketch of Grand Cairo, and other places, which have proved 
at once ornamental and illullrative of the work. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

Pago 

Military Minion appointed to proceed to Turkey. Object, of the Million. Names 
of the officers who accompanied it. Departure of General Koehler over land, 
and of the Author by fea. Their refpective arrivals at Conftantinople. The 
ceremonies of confecrating the Grand Vizier's ftandard ; of the Capitan Pacha's 
departure ; and of the Vizier's taking the field - * 

CHAPTER II. 

Vifit to Pera. Captain Franklin returns to England. Defcription of Conftanti- 
nople-; mofques and minarets; external appearance of the city; the feraglio. 
Suburbs of Galeta, Peri;, and Tophana ; Scutari ; the Bofphorus ; population ; 
amufements. Turkilh fhips. Interior of the Turkifh. houfes ; ceremonies ; 
dogs ; police - - - - - - - 12 

CHAPTER III. 

Hemoval to Buyukdere. Defcription of that village. Favourite amufements of 
the Grand Seignor. Barracks appointed for the Million at Levant Chiflick. 
Defcription of that place. Dyfentery prevalent among the foldiers of the Mif- 
fion, Introduction to the principal officers of the Sublime Porte. Exceffive 
heat. Defcription of the Turkilh horfes, and the mode of treating them. 
Mifcellaneous remarks on the natural hiftory, &c. of the country. Frogs and 
Grafshoppers. Evening walks at Buyukdere, and amufements of the Greeks. 
Drefs and manners of the Turkifh women ; of the Greeks. Abundance and 
cheapnefs of provifions at Buyukdere; oxen and buffaloes. Harveft in Turkey. 
Oppreffions exercifed by the Mahommedans on the Chriftians. Grand Seignor 
vifits Chiflick, and diftributes fmall money to the Englifh foldiers. Turks 
taught to practife with red-hot fhot. Defcription of Kaithana, the place ap- 
pointed for artillery experiments. On board the Charon find two Englifhmen 
redeemed from flavery. Liberal conduct of a French officer. Greek rejoicings 
on St. John's day. Entertainment at the Ruffian ambafiador's. Vifit to Con- 
. ftantinople ; account of the bazars. Further remarks on the city ; the feraglio; 
the mint ; mofque of Santa-Sophia. Greek amufements. Vifit on board the 
Sultan Selim. Sick and wounded foldiers arrive from Acre. Conferences with 
the Turkifh Secretary of War on this fubjeft. Order to attend the Grand 
Seignor - - _ _ . - - - - iS 

b 



X CONTENTS. 

Page 

CHAPTER IV. 
Vifit to Levant Chiflick, in compliance with the orders of the Grand Seignor. 
Practice with red-hot fhot. Prefents diftributed to the officers and men. Or- 
ders to attend the Grand Seignor again ; interview with him — confulted by 
the -Aga. Grand proceffion on the opening of the feftival of the Biram Cour- 1 
bam. Turkifh entertainment. Remarks on the productions of the feafon in 
Turkey, on the difeafes of the country, and the ftate of medical fcience there. 
Proceffion and feftival of the dervifes. Remarks on the climate and weather. 
Village and aqueducts of Belgrade. Character of the Turkifh villages. Vifit 
to the Aiiatic fhorc. Order for removal of the troops. Fire near Conftan- 
tinople. Defcription of Santa-Sophia. Greek marriage. Remarks on the 
Turkiih fortreffes Embarkation of the troops - 40 

CHAPTER V. 

Departure from Conftantinople. Voyage to Chennecally. Seftos and Abydos. 
Tower of Leander. Arrival at Chennecally. Join the Capitan Pacha's fleet. 
Vifit of the officers on board the Sultan Selim. Character of the Capitan Pacha. 
Prefcnt ftate of the Turkifh marine. Difhonefty of a Turkifh marine. Vifit 
to the ancient Sigxan. Recovery of fome curious remains of antiquity. De- 
fcription of the plain of Troy, and the tombs of Achilles, Patroclus, and Ajax. 
Mount Ida. Defcription of Chennecally. Caftles of the Dardanelles. Aby- 
dos. Decapitation of a Turkifh admiral. Dardania. Orders received to return 
to Conftantinople. Arrival there - - — - 60 

CHAPTER VI. 

Reception at Conftantinople. Caflle of the Seven Towers. Palace of Belifarius. 
Apprehenlion of the plague. Execution of feveral Turks for robberies. The 
Hans, or rclidence of the Turkish merchants. Sudden changes of weather at 
Conftantinople ; fall of fnow. Panorama of Conftantinople. Fatal effects from 
burning charcoal; feven ladies of the Grand Vizier fuffocatcd. Ufe of the bath 
in Turkey. Travelling in Turkey. Singular religious ceremony. Different 
fects of dervifes. Intercepted difpatches from the French army. The Rama- 
zan. Splendid illuminations. Greek marriage. Ceremonies on board a Ruf- 
fian ftiip of war. Feaft of Biram. 1 he chief of the white eunuchs. Shock 
of an earthquake. Violent changes in the temperature. Singular punifhment 
inflicted on a Turk for affaulting an Englishman. Formidable hordes of ban- 
ditti in the vicinity of the metropolis. Singular mode of communicating the 
plague to a French officer. Launch of a Turkish feventy-four. Leander's 
tower. Town of Scutari. Celebration of Eaftcr among the Greeks, Daring 
robbery in the open ftrcet. Severe execution of Janifi'aries and feamen. Ca- 
pitan Pacha fails from Conftantinople. Beautiful appearance of the Afiatic 



CONTENTS. XI 

Page 

shore. Feaft of the Biram Courbam. Prayers on board the Turkish admiral's 
ship. Defcription of the mofques at Conftantinople. Execution of the Pacha 
of Nicomedia. Fete given by Lord Elgin on his Majefty's birth-day. Prepa- 
rations for the departure of the Miffion to join the Grand Vizier's army. 
Anecdote of the Grand Vizier - - - - - 75 

CHAPTER VII. 

The Miflion fet fail from Conftantinople ; anchor at Prince's Iflands. Vifit to 
Adam Oglou. Greek iflands. Defcription of Patmos ; Stancho. Immenfe 
oriental plane. Cyprus ; defcription of that ifland. Plague of locufts. Arri- 
val at Jaffa ; defcription of that place and its vicinity - - 109 

CHAPTER VIII. 

Junction- with the Grand Vizier. Alarming information 'concerning the break- 
ing out of the plague. Encampment near Jaffa; dangers and inconveniencies 
of this fituation. Intelligence received of the affaffination of General Kleber. 
Turkish artillery. Amufement of djerid. Encampment of the Miffion. Turkish 
officers of ftate. Character of the Grand Vizier; of the Reis Effendi. De- 
fcription of Jaffa ; ftorming of that place by the French ; inhuman conduct 
afcribed by the Turks to Bonaparte. Warm bath in the camp. Eruptive 
complaint. Anecdote evincing the extreme ignorance of the Turks in matters 
of fcience. Infurreclion at Nablous. Undifciplined and diforderly ftate of the 
Turkish foldiery. Scene of the maffacre committed on their captives by the 
French. Military exercife of the Turks. Plague breaks out among the Mame- 
lukes. Ruffian agent at Jaffa dies of the plague. Review of the Turkish 
army. Plague continues to rage among the Mamelukes. Defcription of an 
Arab village, and its inhabitants. Firft ftone laid of the new fortification at 
Jaffa. Diffection of a cameleon. Mameluke chiefs die of the plague. Info- 
lence of the Arnauts, and weaknefs of the Turkish government. Egyptian 
jugglers. Camp infefted by large packs of jackals. Defertion of Arnauts. Ac- 
count of the Dehlis - - - - ~ - 120 

CHAPTER IX. 

Progrefs through the Holy Land. Ruins of a tower erected in honour of forty 
martyrs. Arabian dwellings. Ramla. Date-trees. Ophthalmia. Refidence 
of the Jewish monarchs. St. Jerom. Arrival at Jerufalem ; fituation of that 
city ; Solomon's temple ; refidence of Pontius Pilate. Extraordinary threat 
of Bonaparte. Mount of Olives ; David's tower ; holy fepulchre ; fcene of 
our Saviour's fuffeiings ; tomb of' Baldwin. Humanity and good fenfe of a 
Turkish fanton. Vifit from the Mufti. Armenian convent; head of St. 
James; Mount Sion ; Bethlem ; temple of St. Catherine; pools of Solo- 

b 2 



xll CONTENTS. 

Page 

mon ; gardens of Solomon ; birth-place of our Saviour ; receptacle of the mur- 
dered Innocents ; tomb of St. Jerom ; convent of St. Catharine. Inhabitants 
of Bethlem. Sepulchres of the kings ; fepulchre of the Virgin Mary ; val- 
ley of Jehofaphat ; impreffion of our Saviour's foot on the Mount of Olives ; 
tombs of Abfalom and Zechariah •, wells- of Nehemiah ; burial-place of King 
David ; convent of St. Helena ; birth-place of John the Baptift. Jofeph of 
Arimathea. Topographical account of the moft interefting objects in the Holy 
Land - - - - - - - - 150 

CHAPTER X. 

Irregularities in the Turkish camp. Governor of Damafcus beheaded. Memo- 
rial delivered to the Grand Vizier on the ftate of the camp. Defertion of 
Turkish chiefs and foldiers. Tents plundered by Arabs. Plague among the 
Mamelukes and Albanians. Mutiny of the Janiffaries ; ceremonies on paying 
them their arrears. Alarms excited by reports from El-Arish. Decapitation 
of Turkish foldiers for gaming. Ravages by the plague. Infiirrection in Pa- 
leftine on account of the heavy impofitions of the government. Difaftrous 
ftate of the British Miffion. Death of a military artificer. A British gunner 
dies of the plague. Death of Mrs. Koehlcr, and of the General. Precautions 
employed to ftop the progrefs of the plague. Turkish entertainments in camp. 
Removal of the camp. Inftances of infubordination in the camp. Effective 
force of the Turkish army. Obfervations on the plague. Vizier's phylician 
dies of the plague. Ramazan ; Lydda. The Grand Vizier indifpofed, and 
attended by the Author. Celebration of the Biram in camp. Remarks on 
the country about Jaffa. Climate of Syria ; face of the country and foil ; pro- 
ductions of Syria ; sheep and goats ; other cattle; habitations of the Syrians; 
camels, and other beafts of burthen ; character and manners of the Syrians, 
abject ft3te of the farmers, or hufbandmen. Bedouins, or wandering Arabs. 
Agriculture of Syria ; difeafes of Syria - - - - 185 

CHAPTER XI. 

The army of the Grand Vizier; principal officers; different cafts of people; ar- 
tificers and attendants. Precarious ftate of grcatnefs in the Turkish govern- 
ment. Standards; dervifes. Grofs fuperfthion of the Turks. Tradition 
relative to the downfall of the Turkish empire. Origin and prefent ftate of 
the Janiffaries. 'I he Arnauts ; light cavalry; volunteers. Religious fectaries 
who follow the army. Plunderers; Mamelukes; Arabian camel-drivers. 
Thievish difpofition of the Arabs. Tartars. Guards of honour. General 
character of the Turks. Pcrfonal courage ; fupcrftition ; temperance ; addic- 
tion to coffee and tobacco ; games ; pay and allowance of the foldicry. Mifer- 
able ftate of the medical art among the Turks. Ilorfemanship - - 226 



CONTENTS. 



xiii 



CHAPTER XII. 

Page 

Narrative refumed. Breaking up of the camp at Jaffa. March of the army. New 
encampment. Account of General Muftapha, alias Campbell. Singular fact 
relative to the plague communicated by General Muftapha. Several deaths by 
the plague. Rock where Samfon was furprifed by the Philiftines. Ekron ; 
Afhdod ; Afkalon ; Ramah of Gilead. Preparations for march ; order of the 
march. New encampment near Efda! } or Efhtaol. Arab villages : Afhdod, or 
Azotus. Progrefs of the army. Country round Afcalon defcribed. Dearth of 
corn in the camp. March towards Gaza ; encampment near Gaza ; vifit to 
that place. Porch of which Samfon carried away the gates ; place of his death. 
Defcription of the city and fuburbs of Gaza ; port of Gaza ; delightful gar- 
dens. Antelopes, quails, jackalls. Strong detachments fent from the Vi- 
zier's army for the purpofe of active operations. Succefsful progrefs of the Bri- 
tish army in Egypt. Scarcity of fpecie in the Ottoman army. March of the 
army ; difficulties of the march. Encampment at Kahnyounes. Further march 
of the Ottoman army. Entrance into Africa. Encampment in the defert ; 
march over the defert ; arrival at El-Arjsh Regulations of the Grand Vizier. 
Arrival of fresh troops Detachment fent off towards Salahieh. Serious dif- 
agreement in the Turkish camp. Storm in the defert. Deficiency of proven- 
der. Kampfin wind. Cafual fupply intercepted by Bedouin Arabs. Arrival 
in camp of a French deferter. Lofs of camels. Embarkation of civil artificers 
for Tineh. March from El-Arish. Croffing the defert. Encampment at Bar- 
rahcat. March acrofs the defert to Theah ; encampment there. March to 
Bir-Denedar. Overflowing of the Nile. Encampment at Kantara. March 
into Salahieh. Curious huts inhabited by Arabs. Flight of the French from Sa- 
lahieh ; fortrefs of Salahieh. Debility occasioned by the kampfin wind. In- 
habitants of Egypt. March to Korin ; village of Korin. Precious ftones. 
Egyptian partridges. Flocks of doves. Belbeis. Mode of getting in corn in 
Egypt. Oppreffive heat. Appearance of the enemy. Taher Pacha detached 
in purfuit. . Action between the French and Taher Pacha, in which the former 
were defeated. Ill ftate of difcipline in the Turkish army. Sackars. March 
from Belbeis to Meshtoule. Encampment on the Nile ; water of the Nile. The 
Delta. Arrival of General Hutchinfon in the Vizier's camp. Difeafes in the 
Turkish camp. March to Dagona. Great pyramids of Gaza. Difeafes in the 

. British army. March to Shellacan. New encampment on the banks of the 
Nile. Armiftice agreed on with the French. Fort Shoulkouski and the pyramids 

. of Giza furrendered. Convention agreed upon. Heliopolis. Clouds of duft. 
British troops take poffeffion of Cairo. Defcription of Cairo ; citadel -, grand 
aqueduct:; baths; the Mekias, or Nilometer - 249 



xiv 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

. • • , * ■■' • ,: . Pa s e - 

Excurfion to the pyramids of Giza. 1 he three great pyramids. Entrance into 
the ^reat pyramid. Dimenfions of the great pyramid; of the paffage within- 
fide ; pafiages into the pyramid ; gallery. The great Sphynx. Veuiges of an- 
tique buildings. Afcent to the ftimmit of the exterior. Diftant view of the 
pyramids of Saccara. Prefent from the Sultan to the Vizier ; ceremony on this 
occafion. Feftival on the birth-day of the mother of Mahomed. Marriage pro- 
ceffion at Cairo. Details relative to the plague. Indifpofition of the Grand 
Vizier. Death of Mr. Whiteman. Unhealthinefs of the climate of Egypt. Ex- 
cefiive heat. The date tree and its fruit. Opening of the canal. Inundation 
of the Nile. Intcrefting converfation with an Abyffinian prieft. Confirmation 
of Brucc's authenticity. Voyage in company with Mr. Clarke and others to 
view the pyramids of Saccara, and the plain of Mummies. Chief Atman. 
Arab marriage- Pyramids of Saccara. Plain of the Mummies. Suppofed fcite 
of Memphis. Defcent into the Catacombs ; horrid appearance. Pit, or cata- 
comb of birds. Egyptian idols. - - - - - 321 

CHAPTER XIV. 

Excufion to Old Cairo. Grotto where the holy family took refuge from Herod's 
perfecution. Chapel of St. George. Expected vifit from the Prophet Mahomed. 
Armiftice concluded with the French at Alexandria. Excurfion to Boulac. 
Account of the Colcafiium. The faffron shrub ; Calfira ; Egyptian thorn ; gum 
arabic ; herbaceous plants. Surrender of Alexandria to the British. Magnifi- 
cent burial places. Marriage procefiions. Inundation of the Nile. Excurfion 
to Mount Mokatam. Slave market. Leprofy. Voyage on the Nile to Alex- 
andria. Mcnouf. Two villages fwept away by the overflowing of the Nile. 
Weftern branch of the Nile. Manner of preparing the Indigo. Plantations 
of rice and fugar-canes. Rofetta. Plague among the British troops under Ge- 
neral Baird. Lake of Aboukir. Arrival at Alexandria. Pompey's pillar. Cleo- 
patra's needle. Part of the colofius of Memnon. Return to Cairo. 343 

CHAPTER XY\ 

Defcription of Grand Cairo •, the citadel ; conjectures relative to its antiquity ; 
fortifications raifed by the French ; the mint ; remarkable debafement of the 
coin ; ftretts of Cairo ; conftruction of the houfes ; interior and furniture of 
'the houfes; palaces of the Beys ; mofques; dimenfions of the city; bazars, 
or shops. Improvifatori. Population of Cairo. Jofeph's well. Palace of the 
Caliph Salah-Ed-Din. Inhabitants of Cairo. Coptic language ; drefs ; manu- 
factures ; fword blades ; horfes. Commerce of Egypt. Amufements of Cairo. 
Dancing girls ; jugglers ; tumblers and pofture-mafters. Old Cairo. Boulac ; 



CONTENTS. XV 

Page 

grand aqueduct ; beafts of burthen ; the Buffalo ; oxen, goats, fowls, &c. 
Fruits of Egypt ; vegetables ; corn. - 365 

CHAPTER XVI. 

Arreft of the Mameluke Beys. '-Procession accompanying the facred carpet for 
covering the houfe of God at Mecca. Several Beys killed at Alexandria by the 
perfons fent to arreft them. Anecdotes relative to the plague. Conteft between 
the Albanians and Mograbian Arabs. Experiment with the freezing mixture. 
Subiiding of the Nile. Excurfion to Heliopolis and the lake of Pilgrims. Ex- 
cursion to Upper Egypt ; to Hallouan. Prefent to the A.uthor of a Mummy. 
Tourrah ; the caltle. "Rout at the Imperial Conful's. Procession from Boulac. 
Caravan to Mecca. Plague at Alexandria. Vizier prepares to quit Egypt. 
Mamelukes privately depart from Giza. Mission ordered to Alexandria ; audi- 
ence of leave. Gold medals prefented to the officers - - 381 

CHAPTER XVII. 

Plague breaks out in the buildings occupied by the British Mission. Departure 
of the Janiilaries. Departure of the Vizier. Excurfion of the Nile. Site of 
the ancient city of Memphis. Remains of the Mekias. Departure from 
Cairo. Obfervatiohs on the rife and fall of the Nile. - . - 397 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

Voyage on the Nile from Cairo to Rofetta. Canal of Menouf. Cruel inftance 
of devaluation by the Turks. Dangers attending the paffage down the Nile. 
Dahroot. Cemetery. Death of the sheick. "Wretched ftate of the inhabi- 
tants. Arrival at Rofetta. Plague among the English troops at Rofetta. Some 
account of the fort and harbour. Fort Julien. Hunting of the oftrich. Build- 
ings at Rofetta. Population •, bazars ; wharf. Animals indigenous to this part 
of Egypt. Fish ; manufactures ; gardens ; morafies ; difeafes. Plague rages 
at Rofetta. The Miffion embark for Alexandria ; land on the peninfula lead- 
ing to Alexandria, where they perform quarantine. Sepoy tried by a court- 
martial for fuffering Arabs to efcape from quarantine. Cafes of plague in the 
lazaretto. Miffion releafed from quarantine. Feftivities in commemoration 
of victories. Temple of Diana. Catacombs and baths of Cleopatra - 408 

CHAPTER XIX. 

Departure for Conftantinople. Stormy weather. Obliged to take refuge in the 
ifland of Caftel Roffo. Ancient Ciftene. Some account of Caftel Roffo. Ifland 
of Rhodes •, defcription of the town and ifland ; ancient habitation of the kn ights ; 
coloffus of Rhodes ; ancient Rhodes ; ftate and cultivation of the ifland ; the 
arfenal ; villages ; drefs ; vegetable productions. Departure from Rhodes. 
Stancho 5 town and ifland of Stancho ; population; aqueduct; fountain; 
game. Coaft of Andolia. Ifland of Samos. Scala-Nova. Arrival at Scio 424 



XVI CONTENTS. 

Page 

CHAPTER XX: 

Appearance and drefs of the Greek women of the ifland of Scio. Light-houfes ; 
Greek convent at Nehahmortee ; curious decorations ; foil and cultivation of 
the ifland •, fchool of Homer ; gum maftic ; Del Campo ; population ; town 
of Scio •, ftreets ; markets •, wines ; port of Scio. Pafiage to Smyrna. Popu- 
lation of the town of Scio ; churches ; general hofpitals ; hofpital for lepers ; 
fome account of this difeafe ; general difeafes ; medicinal fpring. Departure 
from Scio. Mitylene. Lefbos. Town of Caftro ; markets ; taverns ; oil ; 
population ; fruit. Ifland of Tenedos ; town and forts ; commodities. Ifle of 
Rabbits. Banks of the Scamander. Plain of Troy. Tomb of Patroclus. Comb- 
call}'. Shennacally. Arrival at Conftantinople - - - 44 1 

CHAPTER XXT. 

Embarkation at Buyukdere. Arrival at Varna. Yenipazzar ; Rafgat. Apprc- 
henfions from banditti. Rouzchook ; Georgival. General terror on account 
of the approach of Pafwan Oglou. Embarkation for Galatz in Moldavia. 
Torkotoi. Mills elevated on boats. Villages on fire. Siliftria. Diftrefnng , 
fcene of devaftation. Voyage on the Danube ; defcription of the veffels. Banks 
of the Danube. Fugitives from banditti. Roflbvat ; Girfow; Galatz; Bor- 
lat ; Yassi. Entrance into Poland. Chernowich. Journey through part of 
Poland. Salt-pits at Wilifka. Cracow, Shottau ; Silefia; Neiflifchene. Ar- 
rival at Vienna. Vaccine inoculation introduced there. Cathedral of St. 
Stephen ; Widden theatre ; Imperial library ; menage ; theatre de la cour ; 
cabinet of medals; general hofpital; cabinet of natural hiftory. New and 
lingular opinion on the brain. Hofpital for lunatics. Anecdote relative to 
the Emperor Jofeph II. Imperial palace at Schombrun. Menagerie ; obfer- 
vatory ; model of our Saviour's iepulchre ; arfenal ; collection of pictures. 
Departure from Vienna 463 

CHAPTER XX IT. 
Journey through Germany. Lintz.' Glandular fwellings. Drefs of the women 
in Bavaria. Houfcs. Ratifbon ; Franconia. Drefs of the female peafants. 
Wurtzburg ; the palace, citadel, and bridge. Eflclbach ; EfchafFenberg ; Det- 
tingen; Hanau ; Frankfort; Koenigftein. Seltzer water. Limbourg ; Dowz} 
Dufleldorf, Scat of the Prince Palatine. Drefs of the peafants. Duyfbourg; 
Wefel; Arnheiin. Roads in Holland. Face of the country and cultivation. 
Utrecht ; Rotterdam ; Hclvoctflnys. Arrival in England - 486 



APPENDIX, containing a Medical Journal, Hiftorical Journal of Plague, and a 

TRAVELS 



Meteorological Journal. 



TRAVELS 

IN 

ASIATIC TURKEY, SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 



CHAPTER I. 

MILITARY MISSION APPOINTED TO PROCEED TO TURKEY OBJECT OP THE 

MISSION NAMES OF THE OFFICERS WHO ACCOMPANIED IT DEPAR- 
TURE OF GENERAL KOEHLER OVERLAND, AND OF THE AUTHOR BY SEA 
THEIR RESPECTIVE ARRIVALS AT CONSTANTINOPLE THE CEREMO- 
NIES OF CONSECRATING THE GRAND VIZIER'S STANDARD ; OF THE CA- 
PITAN PACHA'S DEPARTURE ; AND OF THE VIZIER'S TAKING THE FIELD. 

r J^ ^OWARDS the clofe of the year 1798, a plan was formed by 
his Majefty's miniflers to fend to the dominions of the Grand 
Seignor a Britim military miffion, which was to proceed to the feat 
of war, and to co-operate with the Turks againft the common 
enemy, the French, who had by that time gained a ftrong footing 
in Egypt. For this purpofe General Koehler, who had been at 
Conftantinople on a former occafion, was fele&ed, together with fe- 
veral officers belonging to the corps of royal engineers and royal ar- 
tillery. Thefe, with a certain number of non-commiffioned officers 
and privates belonging to the corps of artillery, and a few artificers, 
compofed the above million, confiiling all together of feventy-fix 
perfons. 

B 



2 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

The officers who were appointed on this occafion to act under 
General Koehler were, Lieutenant Colonel Holloway, of the royal 
engineers ; Majors Hope and Fead, of the royal artillery ; Major 
Fletcher and Captain Lacy, of the royal engineers ; and Captain 
Leake, of the royal artillery : Captain Franklin, who was in the fer- 
vice of the Honourable Eaft India Company, went in the capacity 
of fecretary to General Koehler ; Mr. Chandler as commifTary ; Mr. 
Whiteman, affiftant commhTary; MelTrs. Read and Pink, draughts- 
men ; and Dr. Wittman, furgeon to the million. 

In order that no time mould be loft in carrying into effect the 
important object which this million had in view, Brigadier General 
Koehler, Lieutenant Colonel Holloway, commanding the engineers, 
Major Hope, commanding the artillery, Majors Fead and Fletcher, 
Captain Franklin, and Mr. Pink, fet out from England, in the 
month of December, to proceed overland to Constantinople. It 
may readily be conceived that, at fo inclement a feafon of the year, 
they had great difficulties to encounter in the profecution of fuch 
a journey. But previoufly to entering upon this fubject, it will be 
proper to narrate the progrefs of that part of the detachment which 
was to proceed by fea. 

It was the beginning of April before the New Adventure tranf- 
port, having on board the remainder of the officers, the non-com- 
miffioned officers, and the privates, together with the artillery and 
ordnance ftores neceffary for the expedition, failed from England, 
under convoy of his Majefty's fhip the Charon, of forty-four guns, 
and made a fafe paffage to Gibraltar, in the courfe of which no re- 
markable incident took place, except the ufual occurrence at this 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 3 

feafon of the year of bad weather in the bay of Bifcay, when the 
tranfport being too heavily laden, fprang a leak, and a quantity of 
ftores and fome pontoons were obliged to be thrown overboard. A 
military artificer was unfortunately warned off the veffel by a furf, 
and was immediately drowned. 

Early in the morning of the 3d of May we weighed anchor, and 
failed from Gibraltar. At ten o'clock bore away with a fair breeze 
from the weftward, which continuing to blow from the fame quar- 
ter, we reached Palermo on the 1 1th of May, after a very agreeable 
paffage of eight days. Our flay at Palermo afforded us leifure to 
admire the beautiful view of the city, its fuburbs, and the adjacent 
country, which is extremely pleafant and well cultivated, and the 
level furface of which forms a finking contraft with the high and 
rugged mountains behind. Our curiofity was indeed wrought to a 
very high pitch, and, flimulated by this, and the averfion to the fea, 
fo natural to thofe accuflomed to live on more, we felt a very ardent 
defire to land, but w T ere difappointed. We failed in the evening, 
and were thus prevented from viewing the many curious and inte- 
refling objects which Palermo contains. 

On the following day we were becalmed on the coafr. of Sicily, 
from which we were at fo fmall a diftance, that we had a diftincl: 
view of Mount Etna and Strombolo, than which nothing could be 
more awfully grand. The Lipari iflands added to the effecl: of this 
fine fcene. 

We paffed on the 13th through the ftraits of Meffina, and were 
fwept along by the rapid current without experiencing any unplea- 
fant fenfation. On the contrary, as the day was very fine and clear, 

B 2 



4 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

we had a full view of the city of Meffina, and the cheering profpeci 
of a beautiful and richly diverfified coaft, fometimes clouded by the 
recollection of the dreadful earthquake which a few years fince 
fpread defolation through this delightful country. 

On the ] 4th, we were becalmed on the coaft of Calabria. On 
the 15th, we made fome progrefs, notwith {landing the wind was 
contrary. Owing to this circumftance, we did not defcry the ifland 
of Zante until the 1 8th, when it was diftant about feven or eight 
leagues. It was in fight on the following day, the little wind that 
there was {till continuing unfavourable. 

Early in the morning of the 22d, we made Cerigo, which bore 
from us E. N. E. diftant about feven miles. On the 23d, we de- 
fcried Milo, whence, after feveral ineffectual attempts to procure a 
pilot, we were driven by a ftrong north-eaft gale upon the Morea. 
From that time until the 25th, wc were engaged in working to 
windward, to regain our ftation, which we at length effected, but 
were driven back. 

On the morning of the 27th, we were fo fortunate as to pafs be- 
tween the iflands of Thcrmea and Serfo, two of the Cyclades : the 
wind blowing extremely hard from the N. E. our mainfail was fplit. 
In the afternoon we were clofe in with Mycone, another of the 
Cyclades. 

On the 28th, we paffed the ifland of Nicaria. It blew a frefli 
gale, and we (hipped a large quantity of water. Our ftock of frefli 
provifions was by this time cxhaufted. 

On the 2(jth, w r e pafled near the ifland of Scio ; and on the 31 ft, 
defcricd Mytclcnc. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. % 5 

On the evening of the 2d of June we were clofe in with the 
ifland of Tenedos ; and, being becalmed on the following day, were 
driven by the force of the current, which fet in from the mouth of 
the Dardanelles, too far to the weftward to be enabled to make for 
the {traits. 

On the 4th, in the afternoon, we entered the Dardanelles ; but, 
the wind dying away, were under the neceffity of coming to an 
anchor foon after, at the distance of five miles within the entrance. 
We were there detained by contrary winds until the 11th, when a 
favourable gale fpringing up, we made fail at about eleven o'clock 
in the morning, and pa-fled the town of Gallipoli at five in the 
afternoon. 

Early in the morning of the 14th, we were in fight of Conftan- 
tinople. We were ftiortly afterwards overtaken by a ftorm of thun- 
der, lightning, and rain. At three in the afternoon we came to 
anchor in the harbour, the Charon and tranfport having fired a 
royal falute on paffing the Seraglio, which the reader need not be 
informed is the palace of the Grand Seignor. This term has been 
vulgarly applied to all places where the oriental people confine 
their women, but, in fact, thefe are called Harams, and the word 
Seraglio is a ftriclly local appellation. The city, harbour, and en- 
virons, prefented a magnificent fpectacle, new in every refpect to our 
eyes, both as to the architecture of the principal edifices and the 
construction of the city itfelf, but which was on the whole extremely 
fine and picturefque. 

The whole of the million was now afiembled at Constantinople. 
The officers who had proceeded thither overland, had anxioufly 



6 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

waited our arrival ; and on our fide we felt an equal impatience to 
join them. Our mutual greetings were followed by mutual en- 
quiries ; and we collected from them the following particulars rela- 
tive to their journey, and to the events which had occurred during 
their refidence in the capital of the Turkifh dominions. 

Their journey, in the outfet, had been attended by uncommon 
feverities ; fuch, however, as might have been expected from a fea- 
fon more rigorous than any which had been experienced for many 
years. In paffing over to the continent, they had, at the entrance 
of the Elbe, been fhipwrecked among the fhoals of ice ; and, to 
relieve themfelves from this perilous fituation, had been under the 
necevfity of pavTing over the ice, to the extent of two miles, to gain 
the more. By this effort, however, they were providentially faved. 
They now profecuted their journey to Conftantinople, where they 
arrived in the month of March 1 799, having fet out, as has been 
mentioned before, towards the clofe of the preceding year. 

On the 17th of the following month, April, it was officially no- 
tified to them, that the Grand Vizier had appointed the following 
day for their firir. prefentation. He had made choice of this day, 
as being that which was fixed on for the ceremony of the confecra- 
tion of his ftandard, previoufly to his taking the field, and to his 
promotion to the rank of a pacha of three tails — a ceremony which 
could not fail to be highly gratifying to ftrangers. To this mark of 
attention our officers were not infenfible. 

At eleven o'clock in the morning they were conducted to the 
Sublime Porte, under an efcort of a body of JanhTaries, and attended 
by an interpreter. They were led to an apartment, whence they 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 7 

had a view of the hall of the divan, and of an extenfive court-yard, 
in which a very numerous body of Turks was affembled at prayers. 
A little before noon the ftandard, fupported by feveral of the great 
officers of ftate, was brought with great ceremony from the hall, 
and carried to the bottom of a flight of fteps, the different religious 
feels, the Mufti, Imans, Dervices, &c. being in front of the pro- 
ceffion. A folemn prayer, in which the fpectators joined, having 
been repeated, and the Mufti perceiving that the fun was at its 
meridian height, the ftandard was raifed and planted. This part of 
the ceremony having been accomplifhed, twelve fheep were immo- 
lated, and the foot of the ftandard wafhed with their blood. In 
this ftate it was to remain during forty days, at the expiration of 
which time his Royal Highnefs was to take the field. The great 
officers, namely, the Mufti, the head of the Ulema, the Kiabey, 
the Reis Effendi, the Tefterdar, the JanifTary Aga, &c. who had 
attended on this occafion, now took leave, the Mufti being accom- 
panied to his carriage, a fmall clofe vehicle covered with fcarlet 
cloth, by the Vizier himfelf. On the clofe of the ceremony the 
Britifh officers were introduced to the Reis Effendi, or fecretary of 
ftate for foreign affairs, by whom they were conducted and pre- 
fented to his Royal Highnefs the Grand Vizier-. They found him 
feated in the corner of a room, richly furnifhed in the Turkifh ftyle, 
and furrounded by a numerous body of attendants and mutes, all 
of them fuperbly and elegantly dreffed. Our officers being feated, 
they were ferved, according to the cuftom of the country, with 
pipes, fweetmeats, coffee, flierbet, rofe-water, and other perfumes; 
No -mark of diftinetion due to their rank was neglected on this oc- 



S TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

caiion ; and after they had been apprifed that an early day would 
be appointed for a fecond interview, they withdrew. 

This interview was not delayed. It took place five days after the 
preceding one, on the 22d of April, at the kiofque at Kaithana, 
where his highnefs the Vizier had affembled a party of Turkifh 
artillery, and a corps of infantry, for a review, and for artillery 
practice. The latter fucceeded much better than our officers had 
been led to expect:. The Turkifh artillery-men beat down the tar- 
get feveral times, and their mortar practice was by no means con- 
temptible. Lefs praife was due to the manoeuvres of the infantry, 
and to the mam-fight which enfued. 

The 26th of April was the day appointed for the ceremony of 
the Capitan Pacha taking leave of the Sultan, previoufly to the 
failing of his fleet, which was to act in concert with the Ottoman 
land forces. The following was the etiquette obferved on this oc- 
cafion, at which the Britifli officers were prefent. The Sultan, fur- 
rounded by his guards, officers of ftate, and attendants, all richly 
drefTed, was feated in a magnificent kiofque, at a fmall diftance 
from the Seraglio ^point. The Capitan Pacha having been intro- 
duced, and having had a mort conference with the Grand Seignor, 
the purport of which was, as wc conjectured, to receive his high 
commands and pleafure, was invefled with a rich caftan, or robe of 
honour. Six of the captains of his fleet were next conducted to 
within a few paces of the Sultan, and having made their obeifance, 
were inveftcd with the caftan. The Capitan Pacha now retired, 
being fupported on each fide by an attendant, as is cuftomary with 
all Turks of rank on thefe public occafions, and led by the proper 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 9 

officers. He was in this manner conducted to a very elegant twenty- 
four oared barge of a great length, richly gilt and ornamented. 
Another barge of the fame defcription carried his flag ; and this was 
followed by four barges, with twenty rowers in each. Such were 
the ceremonials obferved on the return of the Capitan Pacha to his 
fhip, the Sultan Selim, the guns at the Seraglio point, and the men 
of war, faluting him on his way. 

On the 20th of May, General Koehler and the officers proceeded 
to Scutari, in Afia Minor, oppofite to Conftantinople, to be prefent 
at the ceremony of the Vizier taking the field. His Highnefs 
having taken leave of the Grand Seignor, pafTed over to Scutari, 
the guns at the Seraglio point faluting him on his way. At Scutari, 
the {beets through which he pafTed were lined with troops, both 
cavalry and infantry. He was attended by the Kaimacan, Capitan 
Pacha, and all the great officers of ftate, preceded by a band of 
Turkilh mufic, and by a group of gladiators, who fkirmifhed as 
the proceffion pafTed along. The troops, by whom his Highnefs 
was accompanied, confifling both of cavalry and infantry, were clad 
and armed in various ways. Some of them were enveloped in 
curious network coats of mail of fteel ; others wore yellow drefTes, 
decorated with ribbons of different colours hanging from the 
moulders, and brafs helmets on their heads. Others again were 
clad in party coloured drefTes. While a part of them were armed 
with fpears, or lances, from twelve to fourteen feet in length, 
others carried fhort, twifted, rifle- barrel guns, the reft mufkets, 
carbines, &c. The whole of them wore fwords and piftols in fames 

. c 



to TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

fattened round their waift. The Vizier, the Capitan Pacha, the 
Kaimacan, and other officers, were mounted on beautiful horfes 
richly caparifoned. The one which his Highnefs rode made the 
moft magnificent appearance, the embroidered trappings being 
ftudded with gems, pearls, &c. The hilt of the handjar, or dirk, 
which his Highnefs carried at his fide, was covered with a profufion 
of diamonds. 

It is impoffible to contemplate thefe pompous ceremonies, and 
not to contraft them with the fecrecy and filence with which the 
jfirft movements of European armies are undertaken. It mull be a 
trifling nation which can delay an expedition of importance, even 
for a fingle day, left fome little rite or ceremony mould be omitted. 
And it is truly impolitic thus to advertife an enemy, for even 
months beforehand, of the advance of an army. When thefe cir- 
cumftances, and the facls which will be hereafter related, are con- 
fidered, the reader will not be furprifed at the little fuccefs which 
commonly attends the Turkifli military operations. 

A number of dervifes were diftributed among the Turkifh troops, 
who are conftantly attended when they go to war by perfons of 
this character, to exhort them to valour, and to kindle up their en- 
thufiafm by their (houts and finging. 

The Viz ier's camp was formed about a mile without the town 
of Scutari. On this occafion a vaft multitude of perfons of both 
fexes, whom curiofity had drawn thither, attended, but not the 
fmallcft accident or difturbance enfued. 

On the lft of June his Highnefs proceeded on his march for 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. n 

Syria. Major Fletcher, of the royal engineers, was ordered to ac- 
company him on this fervice ; but was unfortunately taken ill a few 
days after he fet out, and under the neceflity of returning to Con- 
ftantinople. 

About the fame time, Major Fead, of the royal artillery, was 
ordered to St. John d'Acre, to which place he proceeded in a Turkifli 
fliip of war. This excellent officer (hortly afterwards fell a victim 
to a malignant fever. 



12 



TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 



CHAPTER II. 

VISIT TO PERA CAPTAIN FRANKLIN RETURNS TO ENGLAND DESCRIP- 
TION OP CONSTANTINOPLE MOSQUES AND MINARETS EXTERNAL AP- 
PEARANCE OF THE CITY THE SERAGLIO SUBURBS OF GALETA, PERA, 

AND TOPHANA SCUTARI THE BOSPHORUS POPULATION AMUSE- 
MENTS TURKISH SHIPS INTERIOR OF THE TURKISH HOUSES CERE- 
MONIES — DOGS POLICE. 

the evening of the 1-lth of June, the day on which we landed 
from the tranfport, I walked to Pera. I mould have obferved, 
that the general and officers who had proceeded to Conftantinople 
overland, had taken up their refidence at Buyukdere.. a village fitu- 
ated on the fea-fide, within fourteen miles of the capital. This vil- 
lage was alfo deftined to be my head quarters until the military 
operations mould commence. 

On the 15th, we had a vifit from Captain Franklin, who dined 
with us : he had refigned, and was on the eve of his departure for 
England. I made another excurfion to Pera. 

On the 17th, Lieutenant-colonel Holloway, Major Hope, and 
Mr. Pink, one of the draughtfmen, fet off to infpect the forts in 
the Dardanelles, and the adjacent coafts. 

I now had fufficicnt leifure to examine Conit.antinople y its fuburbs, 
and its dependencies, of which the following is a brief account. 

Conftantinople, comprehending its fuburbs, fome of which are fo 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 13. 

large that feveral authors have been led to confider them as diftincl: 
cities, is of very confiderable extent. It is in the form of an une- 
qual triangle, having one of its fides towards the fea of Marmora, 
another in front of the harbour, and the third towards the land. 
Being built on feven hills, on the fides of which the houfes are 
placed, it has at a little diftance the appearance of a vaft amphithe- 
atre, ftretching itfelf over a very extenfive territory. The mofques, 
or places of public worfhip, of which the principal one was the ce- 
lebrated chriftian church of St. Sophia, which name it ftill retains, 
are numerous, and feveral of them very large. They are not pro- 
vided with bells ; but each of them has one or feveral minarets, on 
which the muczins, or criers, are ftationed to call the people to 
prayers. Thefe minarets bear a ftrong refemblance in their form to 
a tall candle, having an extinguiflier at its top. 

Nothing can be grander or more beautifully pi6turefque than the 
external appearance of Conftantinople and of its vicinity. Within 
it has lefs to recommend it, the houfes being but indifferently built, 
and the ftreets very narrow. 

The Seraglio, or palace of the Grand Sultan, occupies the fpace 
on which the ancient city of Byzantium formerly flood, at the ex- 
tremity of the angle formed by the fea of Marmora and the Bof- 
phorus. It is by far the moft beautiful part of Conftantinople, the 
projecting land on which it {lands being covered by groves of cy- 
prefs trees, which give a fublime effecl: to the magnificent buildings 
of which the palace is compofed. 

On the oppofite fide of the harbour, the towns, or, more properly 
fpeaking, fuburbs of Galata, Pera, and Tophana, are fituated ; and, 



i 4 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

on the Afiatic fide, oppofite the point of the feraglio, ftands the 
town or fuburb of Scutari. From the great Hoping of the hills on 
♦which they are placed, thefe fuburbs have a very fine and romantic 
appearance, the houfes feeming as if built tier upon tier. Being, 
however, principally conftrucled of wood, which is foon fretted 
and decayed by the intenfe heat of the fun in fuch a climate, the 
grandeur of the fcene is diminiflied on a near approach. Between 
them cyprefs trees rear their lofty heads, and add greatly to the 
fublimity of the general effect. The cemeteries are alfo thickly 
planted with thefe trees ; and the fcene is thus rendered beautifully 
piclurefque. In fhort, the external view of Conftantinople, and of 
its environs, is at once fublime and pleafing ; and with this view the 
traveller ought to content himfelf, fince, on a nearer infpe&ion, he 
will find little to gratify his curiofity, or to excite his admiration. 

The Bofphorus, a beautiful canal, or narrow fea, from a mile to 
a mile and a half in breadth, and about twenty miles in length, 
forms the communication between the Euxine, or Black Sea, and 
the fea of Marmora, the ancient Propontis. In the formation of 
its banks, which are lofty, and lined with an exquifite .variety of 
beautiful trees and fhrubs, nature has been lavifh in the extreme. 
Several villages are interfperfed; and at the fea-fide the Grand Seignor, 
the Vizier, Capitan Pacha, &c. have elegant kiofques, or pleafure- 
houfes, for their fummer refidence. Throughout the whole extent 
of the canal the highefh ftatc of cultivation prevails, its mores being 
covered with vineyards, gardens, and orchards, containing a great 
diverfity of the fineft fruits. Were the Turks pofTeffed of a tafte at 
all proportionate to the advantages which this fituation affords, and 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 15 

at the fame time placed under a government fimilar to our own, 
the banks of the Bofphorus would become one of the moft beautiful 
Spots in the world. They at prefent lofe all the beauties of the 
perfpective from the eminences, their villages being built clofe to 
the canal fide, with Stages or landing places projecting over the 
water. There the inhabitants alfemble, and remain for feveral 
hours together, fmoking their pipes, and enjoying the cool refreSh- 
ing breeze. 

Upon the Bofphorus a great number of boats are constantly in 
motion : they are neat and prettily decorated. The boatmen being 
very expert, they are rowed with great fwiftneSs and addrefs. 

To return to Constantinople. Its population, which has been al- 
moft always over-rated, certainly does not exceed four hundred 
thoufand fouls ; and a great part of this population is abforbed by 
the fuburbs ; no Frank, or Christian, being allowed to refide in the 
city, properly fo called. The Franks inhabit Galata and Pera, in 
the latter of which fuburbs are the houfes of all the foreign minif- 
ters, who frequently give balls, concerts, and other entertainments 
to the Frank inhabitants. Thefe entertainments are fully attended, 
more particularly by the Greeks, who are very fond of dancing. 
During the carnival there are mafquerades, in which many of the 
characters are well Supported, 

The harbour of Conftantinople is fafe and commodious for Ship- 
ping. The Turks pay great attention to the external decoration of 
their mips of war. Yellow is the predominating colour with which 
the fides of their mips are painted. Their merchant veflels, which 
almofl exclufively navigate the Black Sea, are named caicks. Great 



16 TR AVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

numbers or* thefe veflcls are loft through the ignorance and ftupidity 
of the Turkifh pilots, who fcarcely ever venture out of fight of the 
land ; and who, when they do, are almoft fure to encounter fome 
accident. The crews, both of the men of war and merchantmen, 
arc for the greater part compofed of Greek failors. 

The economy and arrangement of the interior of the Turkifh 
houfes are deferving of notice. The apartments are, in general, 
gaudily ornamented, the ceilings being of different colours. In each 
of them a part is fet afide for a raifed platform, which is elevated 
about a foot from the floor, and is in width from five to fix feet. 
On this platform mattreffes covered with cloth, or linen, are laid, 
and cufhions placed from one extremity to the other, fo as to give 
the whole the appearance of one continued platform. On the floor 
a handfomc mat is fpread. The windows are latticed, but not 
glazed. Neither tables nor chairs conftitute any part of the furni- 
ture, and indeed they would be fuperfluous, the Turks conftantly 
fating with their legs under them like taylors. When a Frank is 
introduced to a Turk of diftinction, the latter does not rife to re- 
ceive him ; but his vifiter advances towards him, and bows, with 
his right hand placed on his breaft, this being the cuftomary mode 
ot falutation for Chriftians in their intercourfe with the Mahome- 
dans. The Turk now waves his hand to his gueft to fit down on 
the fopha, and the converfation is carried on through the medium 
of a dragoman, or interpreter. The uncovering of the head would 
appear as abfurd to a Turk, as it would feem ridiculous elfewhere, 
if any one, in faluting another, was to take off his wig. The Turks, 
who are great fmokcrs, arc feldom without a pipe in the mouth. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 17 

In the ftreets of Conftantinople there is an incredible number of 
dogs, which appear to be all of the fame race, nearly refembling our 
fhepherd's dog. They are a great nuifance. The howlings of thefe 
hungry and half-ftarved animals during the night are truly hideous. 
As they have no mailers to acknowledge them, and to adminifter 
to their wants, they have to feek their precarious fubfiftence abroad, 
which they rake up from among the filth thrown out from the 
houfes. So defective, indeed, is the police in point of cleanlinefs, 
that thefe dogs, and the vultures, are the only fcavengers in Con- 
flantinople. In the cemeteries, great numbers of doves, which the 
Turks do not attempt to moleft, inhabit the cyprefs groves ; and, 
indeed, fwarm wherever thefe trees are planted. 



D 



* 



TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY. 



CHAPTER III. 

removal to buyukdere — description op that village favourite 

amusements op the grand seignor barracks appointed for the 

mission at levant chiplick description of that place dy- 
sentery prevalent among the soldiers of the mission intro- 
duction to the principal officers of the sublime porte ex-» 

cessive heat description op the turkish horses, and the mode 

of treating them miscellaneous remarks on the natural his- 
tory, 8cc. of the country frogs and grasshoppers evening 

walks at buyukdere, and amusements of the greeks dress 

and manners of the turkish women ; of the greeks abun- 
dance and cheapness op provisions at buyukdere oxen and 

buffaloes harvest in turkey oppressions exercised by the 

mahommedans on the christians — grand seignor visits chiflick, 
and distributes small money to the english soldiers— turks 

taught to practise with red hot shot description of ka1- 

thana, the place appointed for artillery experiments on 

board the charon find two englishmen redeemed from sla- 
very liberal conduct of a french officer greek rejoicings 

on st. john's day — entertainment at the Russian ambassa- 
dor's — VISIT TO CONSTANTINOPLE ACCOUNT OF THE EAZARS — FUR- 
THER REMARKS ON THE CITY THE SERAGLTO THE MINT MOSQUE 

OF SANTA-SOPHIA GREEK AMUSEMENTS VISIT ON BOARD THE SUL- 
TAN SELIM SICK ANDWOUNDED SOLDIERS ARRIVE FROM ACRE CON- 
FERENCES WITH THE TURKISH SECRETARY OF WAR ON THIS SUBJECT 
ORDER TO ATTEND THE GRAND SEIGNOR. 

^~^N the 18th of June I removed my baggage, medicines, &c 
to Ruyukdere, where I took up my refidence in a houfe pro- 
vided for us clofe to the fea fhore. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 19 

The village of Buyukdere is very pleafingly fituated on the Euro- 
pean fide of the Bofphorus, not far from the entrance of the Black 
Sea, and is diftan'c from Conflantinople about twelve miles. As its 
name implies, it {lands on a large level furface, buyuk in the Turkifh 
{ignifying, great, and dere a valley. It commands a moil delightful 
and romantic view. In its front is a beautiful ftrand, and behind it 
feveral heights or promontories, the fcenery of which is piclurefque 
in the extreme. On account of the agreeablenefs of its fituation. 
Buyukdere has been chofen as the refidence of feveral members of: 
the diplomatic corps, whofe palaces are fituated on the eaftern fide 
of the plain. To the weft of the village there is an extenuve mea- 
dow, in the centre of which is a groupe of very large plane trees. 
To this fpot the Grand Seignor frequently retires in the fummer 
feafon, and is entertained by companies of rope-dancers, mounte- 
banks, &c. Thefe paftimes, in the courfe of which the moll inde- 
cent buffoonery is occauonally introduced, are highly agreeable to 
him. The caftle of Buyukdere {lands on a lofty mountain, its po= 
fition being not unlike that of Dover- caftle. It was built in the 
fifteenth century by the order of Sultan Mahomed, by whom the 
city of Constantinople was taken by ftorm, the emperor Conftan- 
tine falling in the attack by the hands of two Turks. 

In company with General Koehler and the other officers, on the 
19th, I dined with the Ruffian ambaffador at his palace at Buyuk- 
dere, where we were fumptuoufly entertained. In the morning 
the general and myfelf went to Levant Chirlick to infped the bar- 
racks, which were deftined to receive our detachment. This place 

D 2 



2o TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

is diftant about fevcn miles from Buyukdere, and nearly midway 
between it and Pera. A capitan pacha having formerly refided 
there, has bellowed on it its name, levant fignifying a Jailor, and 
chiflick a farm. Several of the country refidences belonging to the 
Turkifh grandees are alfo denominated chiflick, or the farm. Our 
ride was very agreeable. The country in the vicinity of Levant 
Chiflick is open and hilly, confiding principally of wafte lands co- 
vered by fern and heath. There are, however, feveral fpots laid out 
in gardens and vineyards. The foil, which is in fome parts argilla- 
ceous, in others fandy with a mixture of Hate, is in general poor ; 
but in the valleys, which are beft cultivated, tolerable crops of hay 
are produced. The quantity grown being however infufBcient for 
the fupport of the cattle in winter, they then fall off, and become 
poor and lean. During the fummer feafon they are kept in good 
condition by the feed on the wafte lands. 

On the 20th, twenty men belonging to the miffion, and feveral 
women, were fent to the above barracks. 

On the 21 ft, I went on board the New Adventure tranfport, lying 
in the harbour of Conftantinople. In the afternoon I returned to 
Buyukdere by water. In the courfe of this day we had much thun- 
der, lightning, and rain. 

On the 22d, I rode to Levant Chiflick. The Turkifh horfes are 
in general fmall, from eleven to twelve and thirteen hands high, 
but they are fure footed. The Turkifh faddle is fomewhat incon- 
venient to Europeans ; and as fpurs are not employed, the rider is 
obliged to have rccourfe to his ftirrups when he wifhes the animal 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 21 

on which he is mounted to quicken his pace. It was with much 
anxiety that I found the numbers on the fick lift to have encreafed, 
the .prevailing complaint being dyfentery. 

On the 23d, the remainder of the detachment, with feveral of 
the officers, were fent to the barracks at Levant Chiflick, which I 
vifited for the purpofe of arranging my quarters, &c. for my occa- 
fional attendance. In thefe barracks we found a Turkifh corps train- 
ing to a more regular fyftem of military tadlics than they had hi- 
therto been accuftomed to. The other officers and myfelf were 
ftill to remain with the general at Buyukdere. 

This day the military officers and the other gentlemen belonging 
to the miffion, who had not already gone through that ceremony, 
that is, thofe among us who had reached Conftantinople by fea, 
were introduced to the Kiamakan, Capitan Pacha, &c. We were 
received with the cuftomary Turkifh compliments, and were treated 
with coffee, fherbet, pipes and tobacco, and perfumes. 

I dined this afternoon with Mr. Abbot, an Englifh merchant, and 
treafurer to the Levant company, who had been fettled in Turkey 
forty-five years. He gave me fome very ufeful information relative 
to the plague, and informed me that there were at that time two 
cafes of this difeafe at Pera. 

On the 24th and 25th, I paid my cuftomary vifits to the barracks 
at Levant Chiflick. During the night of the 24th, Mrs. Wilkinfon, 
wife to a corporal of the royal artillery, fell a vi&im to a dyfenteric 
complaint. On that day we had very heavy mowers of rain, with 
much thunder and lightning. The heat was exceffive, the thermo- 
meter at fix in the evening being at eighty-four in the fhade, and 



22 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

the barometer at thirty. In the mean time the number of fick, la- 
bouring chiefly under dyfenteric complaints, was much encreafed. 

On the 26th, on my return from the barracks, I dined with the 
general. 

On the 27th, I rode to the barracks on a fmall grey horfe of the 
country breed, which I had procured for the purpofe. The mode 
of fhoeing horfes in Turkey differs enentially from ours. The 
whole of the foot is covered by a thin plate of iron, the centre ex- 
cepted, in which there is a fmall perforation about the fizc of an 
Englifh halfpenny. I did not obferve that lamenefs was prevalent 
among thefe horfes, who require much management. After one of 
them has been ridden, it is the cuftom to walk him in the open air 
for an hour or two, previoufly to his being put into the liable. The 
Turkifli horfes are fed, while in the liable, upon barley and chafF 
(or barley alone), and that fparingly, once or at moft twice daily ; 
once a day they have water ; they litter them in their own dung, 
which is firft dried in the fun. The Turks are excellent grooms ; 
the fkins of the horfes are kept very clean and mining, as they fre- 
quently warn them all over with foap and water. In {tables, and 
when not ridden, the horfes are always fettered or tethered with 
cords, in order to prevent their lying down, and to keep them quiet, 
as the principal or beft horfes are ftallions. The faddle is fcarcely 
ever totally removed from the horfe's back, except to clean him, 
even when in ftable, and they arc otherwife kept very warm, with 
thick clothes, and hoods, &c. 

I fhall now make a fhort digreffion from my journal to defcribe 
fcveral particulars relative to the country in which I refided. The 



STRIA, AND EGYPT. 23 

frogs in Turkey are very large ; and it is impoffible to defcribe the 
noife they make, which mull: be heard to form a competent idea of 
it. The grafshoppers are alfo of a large fize, and extremely noify. 
In my rides to Chiflick my ears were perpetually dinned by the 
croaking of the former, and the difcordant notes of the latter of thefe 
creatures. 

Our evening walks on the ftrand in front of Buyukdere were very 
pleafant and cheerful. This fpot has a ftrong refemblance to the 
beach at Weymouth. The Greeks, and indeed moll: of the inha- 
bitants, alTemble in the evening to walk, or to amufe themfelves in 
boats, which are rowed up and down in front of the village. Mufic 
and finging conftitute a part of thefe aquatic amufements, and, 
without being of the moll: exquifite kind, ferve to diverfify and en- 
liven the fcene. 

Buyukdere may with fome propriety be compared to the tower 
of Babel : individuals belonging to almolr. every nation rending 
there, a ftrange mixture of languages mull: confequently enfue. The 
drefles of the inhabitants are as varied as are the languages. The 
Turkifh women are fair ; they cover the face, the eyes and a part of 
the nofe excepted, with a piece of white muflin : another piece of 
mullin envelops the head. This part of their drefs is ftyled mahra- 
mah. In llature they are rather low, and corpulent, the latter con- 
dition being much admired among themfelves : they are ufually clad 
in a long green garment, which hangs very low behind, with a 
fquare cape, refembling on the whole a riding drefs, and it is called 
feredgh They wear yellow boots with flippers over them, but the 
latter they take off on entering a houfe. They llain their finger- 



a 4 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

nails of a red colour, or, more properly fpeaking, of a very deep 
orange, with the dried leaves, diluted with water, of the henna, or 
Egyptian privet (lewfonia biennis, Lin.), a large fhrub, which is 
much cultivated both in Turkey and in Egypt for this purpofe. 

The Turkifh females always walk abroad by themfelves ; in fine 
weather they refort to fome favourite fpot without the towns, oc- 
cupy the banks, or feat themfelves on the tomb-ftones in their ce- 
meteries, where they fit quietly for hours together. They appear to 
lead a moll: indolent life ; their recreations and exercifes being ex- 
tremely limited. 

The Greek women have the face, which is beautiful and of an 
oval form, uncovered. Their eyes are black, as are alfo their eye- 
brows, to which, as well as to their eyelids, they pay a particular 
attention, rubbing them over, to beftow on them a deeper hue, with 
a leaden ore reduced to an impalpable powder, blended with an 
uncluous matter to give it confidence. Their complexion is gene- 
rally pale. They wear their hair, which is of a great length, and of 
* deep (hining black, in trcITes, and fometimes turned back in a 
fanciful way on the head. In other inftances it hangs loofely down 
the back, extending to the hips. They are commonly drelTed in a 
pelice of filk, fatin, or fbme other material : they are coftly in their 
attire, in the choice of which they are not attached to any particular 
colour. On the head they wear a fmall cap. The drefs of the 
men nearly refcmbles that of the Turks ; but they are not allowed 
to wear the kowouk, or turban of white muflin, for which they are 
obliged to fubftitute the calpac, or blue turban, and none of the 
Greeks can wear yellow boots or flippers, except thofe who are in 
the fervice of the foreign minifters, &c. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 25 

The Greek women marry at about the age of fifteen : they are 
iliort lived. At twenty-five they wrinkle and decay, bearing the 
appearance altogether of old women. They have fine children,, 
who, however, partake of the palid complexion of the mothers. It 
is unqueftionably to the too frequent ufe of the warm bath, to 
which the Greek women are fo much habituated, that their very 
relaxed and debilitated ftate is to be afcribed ; and this abufe, added 
to their natural indolence and their inaction, as certainly tends to 
fhorten their lives. 

In Plate I. will be found a faithful reprefentation of a Greek 
woman. 

During courtmip, the Greek lover ferenades his miftrefs either in 
front of her houfe, or from the water. On thefe occafions he re- 
cites, in a pathetic fong, the warmth and fincerity of his paffion, &c. 
Thefe nodturnal ferenades, which are devoted to love, are fo fre- 
quent at Euyukdere, as to break in on the repofe of its inhabitants ; 
and a perfon of a lively fancy might be led to fuppofe that the deity 
of love had made it his favourite refidence, from the beauty and 
amenity of this enchanting fpot. 

I have already obferved that Buyukdere is the fummer refidence 
of feveral of the ambaffadors : it is alfo that of many perfons of pro- 
perty and diftin6tion, who refide at Pera during the winter feafon. 
Nearly oppofite to this village, on the bank of the Bofphorus, is a 
fountain overhung with beautiful clumps of trees, much frequented 
on moonlight evenings by the Greeks, Armenians, and others. This, 
however, happens at a particular feafon only of the year, when the 
clear tranfparency of the moon's light, illuminating the foliage which 

E 



2 6 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

furrounds them, as well as the diftant objects, invites the company 
to fpend late hours in the enjoyment of fo charming a fcene. 

At Buyukdere mutton, beef and bread are plentiful, and fold at 
a very reafonable price; as are alfo poultry of every defcription. 
Eggs are in great plenty ; but the cheefe and butter are very indif- 
ferent. The wines, both red and white, made at Buyukdere, are 
very cheap, the oke (which weighs two pounds ten ounces, or fome- 
what more than an Englifh bottle) being fold at from eight to ten 
paras, that is, from four pence to five pence Englifh money. The 
vegetables, which are pretty nearly of the fame kinds as in England, 
namely, broad beans, French beans, peas, cabbages, cucumbers, 
gourds, water melons, &c. are in great abundance. The fruits, 
which are no lefs fo, confift of peaches, apricots, pears, apples (which, 
however, are all very infipid), figs, cherries, pomegranates, red cur- 
rants, wood ftrawberries, and grapes. Befides thefe, there is a pro- 
fufion of walnuts, filberds, and hazle nuts. As there is no procuring 
m.alt liquor here, the principal beverage is wine and water. The 
milk is good and tolerably cheap. The oxen are fmall, and are for 
the greater part of a light grey colour ; they are employed, in com- 
mon with the buffalo, an animal very unfeemly to the view, in 
ploughing, for draught, &c. Here, as well as at Conflantinople, 
Pera, and indeed in all this part of Turkey, the dogs are very nume- 
rous. They do not appear to belong to any particular matters, are 
very ferocious, and occafionally very troublefome. 

A very agreeable difh called yourt, of which the natives are very 
fond, is made here, and brought in with the defTcrt. It is prepared 
by allowing a certain portion of milk to become four, and throwing 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 27 

into new milk as much of this acidulated fluid as will curdle it in a 
flight degree. It is then eaten with fugar, is very palatable, and, 
mixed with ftrawberries, becomes a good fubftitute for cream. The 
milk fold here is generally a mixture, being drawn from goats, fheep, 
cows, and buffaloes. 

To refume my narrative. On the 28th arid 29th of June, I 
_vifited the barracks at Levant Chiflick. The heat was lefs oppref- 
five, the thermometer being at feventy-five. The harveft was now 
begun, and I faw, during my rides, the Turks bufied in mowing 
their corn. They had a tolerable crop of bearded wheat (in all 
Turkey the wheat is bearded), which was of a good quality. Inflead 
of threfhing it, it is their practice to harnefs horfes and oxen to a 
fraall car, the bottom of which is ftudded with portions of flint to 
cut and bruife the ftraw, the grain being difengaged by the tramp- 
ling of the feet of the animals, who move in a circular direction, as 
if in a mill. 

The 30th, on my return from the barracks, I dined and fpent a 
very agreeable afternoon with Mr. Thornton, an Englifh merchant 
at Buyukdere. His details relative to the oppreffion of the ryahs, 
under which common denomination are comprehended Greeks, 
Armenians, and indeed every defcription of Franks or Chriftians 
fubject to the Turks, were melancholy in the extreme. They are 
liable to an annual capitation, or poll tax, varying according to their 
degrees and circumfhances, from a guinea and a half to feven mil- 
lings and fixpence Englifh money, on the payment of which a cer- 
tificate is granted them ; and this tribute, exacted from them by 
right of conqueft, and confidered as the redemption of their heads, for- 

£ 2 



28 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

fcited in perpetuity by their fubjugated anceftors, leads to many 
villanous practices on the part of the Turks. It frequently occurs, 
for inftance, that a Turk, on meeting a ryah, without fcruple or ce- 
remony, and without any regard to the engagements the latter may 
ha\e, takes him afide to afcertain whether he is provided with a cer- 
tificate, and, if this happens to be the cafe, to enquire into its au- 
thenticity, which he is certain to difpute, or to throw fome diffi- 
culty or other in the way. Thus, whether the unfortunate ryah has 
or has not his certificate about him, he is obliged to make a pecu- 
niary facrifice, to rid himfelf of his oppreffor's importunities. In 
other inftances a ryah, who is in pofTeffion of a houfe, has his right 
to it difputed by a Turk, by whom falfe witneffes are fuborned ; 
and as the oath of the ryah is not valid in a court of juftice, when 
oppofed to that of a Turk, he is obliged, if the caufe is brought to 
trial, to bribe his judge. He is thus, if he mould come offvicto- 
rioufly, condemned to heavy expences. To thefe, and many other 
fimilar vexations and oppreffions, the wretched Franks, or Chrif- 
tians, are inceffantly expofed. 

When their population is confidered, it may at firfl view appear 
extraordinary that they do not endeavour to throw off fo odious and 
opprcflive a yoke, more efpecially as the Greeks, by far the moll: 
numerous among them, in reality poffefs, as individuals, confiderable 
energy and courage. The feverity, however, of the examples which 
have been made in their unfucccfsful ftruggles to regain their inde- 
pendence, appears in a great meafure to have damped their ardour, 
and broken their fpirit. It muff be recollected, that during the late 
war between the Ruffians and Turks, the Greeks made feveral efforts 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 29 

which, through want of a proper concert with the former of thefe 
powers, were ineffectual. On a future occafion they may perhaps 
fucceed better. When they rate their numbers as equal to thofe of 
the Turks, they certainly exaggerate. They are, however, very nu- 
merous, in the European provinces particularly, and poffefs many 
of the eminent qualities which have immortalized their anceftors. 
Among the ryahs in general great induftry prevails. 

On the morning, of the lft of July, I had a high gratification. 
Shortly after my arrival at Levant Chiflick, the Grand Seignor and 
all his principal officers came thither to fpend the day. They were 
mounted, and their fine horfes being very elegantly caparifoned, 
nothing could exceed the grandeur of the fpectacle. Their arrival 
was announced by the firing of guns; and the whole of the troops 
were under arms; their mufic, confifting of drums, a kind of haut- 
boys, timbrels, and horns, was by no means difagreeable. Our men, 
who were called on, fired feveral rounds, and were complimented by 
prefents of fmall gold coins of the fize of a para, and in value a 
piaftre and a half. Each of them received about two guineas. Be- 
tween four and five in the afternoon, the Grand Seignor and his re- 
tinue left Chiflick, which is faid to be the only place in the environs 
of Conftantinople to which he goes on horfeback. 

On the 2d, I paid my cuftomary vifit to the above place, where I 
bad the fatisfaction to find the fick in a fair way of recovery. 

On the 3d, by the order of General Koehler, and at the particular 
requeft of the Capitan Pacha, a furnace was erected at Kaithana, 
for the heating of fhot. A fuccefsful practice was carried on with 
the red hot fhot, to the great fatisfaclion of the Capitan Pacha, who 



3 o TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

cxpreiTed a wifli to fee the whole of the million on the following 
day. 

Kaithana is a valley very pleafantly fituated at the extremity of 
the harbour, and dillant from Buyukdere about ten miles. It has 
been made choice of by the Turks for their artillery experiments, to 
which its even furface is well adapted. The veftiges of a building 
faid to have been formerly a palace of the Grand Seignor are to be 
fcen here ; and near to them is a beautiful kiofque* for the Sultan's 
ufe. A fine meandring ftream runs through the valley. In the 
evening I returned to Buyukdere. 

On the 4th, we repaired, agreeably to our appointment, to the 
refidcnce of the Capitan Pacha, with whom we made fome ftay, and 
were entertained with coffee, and other refrefhments. Previoufly 
to our taking leave, he made each of us a fmall prefent, a gown 
piece, for inftance, or fome fuch trifle. The general was prefented 
with a handfome muff-box, fet round with brilliants, as was alfo 
Mrs. Koehler. 

* A kiofque is a pavilion, or pleafure-houfe, of one ftory, for fummer refidence. 
Its form is fometimes fquare, and at others round •, and it is ufually built of wood, 
painted and decorated both withinfide and without, in the Turkifh ftyle. It has fe- 
veral openings, with fhutters or latticed work, anfwering the purpofe of windows. 

The kiofque is generally raifed fome feet from the ground, and is furnifhed within- 
fide, after the Turkifh fafhion, with fofas, or raifed platforms, covered with cloth, and 
provided with cufhions. The floor is covered with handfome mats fabricated in 
Egypt, a confiderable manufactory of which is carried on at Menouf in Lower Egypt. 

In the conftru&ion of thefe kiofques, the Turks ufually make choice of an elevated 
ground. It is alfo their practice to place them near a river, or ftream of water, fitua- 
tions of which they are pallionately fond. They there indulge themfelves in fmoking 
for feveral hours together. 

Small kiofques are frequently erected on the poops of Turkifh merchant veffels, 
particularly of thofe which navigate the Black Sea. Beneath the fhade of thefe, the 
crews fmoke their pipes. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 31 

After this vifit of ceremony, we went on board the Charon, Cap- 
tain M'Keller, where we were not a little gratified by the fight of 
two of our countrymen, who had been kept in flavery during two 
months in the vicinity of Constantinople, with a perfect ignorance 
of the caufe of their detention. They had been liberated by the 
humane interceffion of Captain M'Keller with the Capitan Pacha. A 
French officer had kindly written to Captain M'Keller in their be- 
half, and had tranfmitted to him a letter from thefe unfortunate men. 

On the 5th, General Koehler left Conftantinople for the purpofe 
of joining Lieutenant-colonel Holloway and Major Hope, in the 
Dardanelles. This being St. John's day, the Greeks kept it with 
much parade. Oppofite Buyukdere the river was crouded with 
boats filled with muficians, who played and fung during the whole 
of the day. In the evening, bonfires were kindled, and piftols dif- 
charged in the air : it was on the whole a fcene of great riot and 
confufion. 

On this occafion the Greek women were all of them very hand- 
fomely attired, the meaneft among them, even the fifhermens' 
wives, being clad in elegant dreffes of filk or velvet, with pelices, 
lined with ermine of confiderable value. This finery, of which they 
are extremely fond, is generally referved for the holidays. 

Having been indifpofed for feveral days, I did not repeat my vifits 
to Levant Chiflick until the 8th. On the 10th, however, I was fo 
well recovered as to accept the invitation which we received from 
Monfieur Tomara, the Ruffian ambaflador, to be prefent at the ce- 
lebration of the birth day of the Emperor of Ruffia. 

In the evening we repaired to his palace, where we found a very 



32 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

large party affembled, all the foreign minifters, in their gala dreffes, 
and decorated with their refpe&ive orders, being prefent, with their 
ladies and fuites. The company, which confuted of individuals of 
almoft every nation, in the different coftumes by which each is ap- 
propriately diftinguimed, did not break up until between one and 
two in the morning. The dances were continued until a late hour, 
the Greek women being paffionately fond of that exercife. In the 
courfe of the evening refrefhments, confuting of fweetmeats, ice 
creams, cakes, &c. were ferved ; and at midnight there was a cold 
collation, with wines and other liquors. The entertainment paffed 
off very agreeably. 

On the 11th, I rode to Levant Chiflick ; and on the 12th, to 
Conftantinople. I embraced this opportunity of paying a vifit to 
the bazars, that is, the places fet afide for the fale of different ar- 
ticles of merchandize, each trade, or in other cafes the dealers be- 
longing to the different nations fubjeel: to the Turkifh domination, 
being arranged under a covered archway, fomewhat fimilar to our 
Exeter exchange. Beneath thefe archways, or cloifters, which are of 
{tone or wood, each tradefman, or dealer, has his fliop in front, and 
behind it a warehoufe for his goods. This arrangement is extremely 
convenient both for the feller and the purchafer ; at the fame time 
that the bazars, admitting a free circulation of the air, are very cool 
in fummer, and confequently well adapted to the climate. The 
commodities fold in them arc by no means contemptible. There 
is here a more regular market police (if the phrafe may be admitted) 
than might be expected in this country. There are officers who 
take care to examine the weights and meafures of thofe who fell 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 33 

goods ; and thefe officers daily go their rounds through the different 
bazars : woe be unto him who fells with light weights ! he is made 
an immediate example : he either fuffers on the fpot the baftinado 
(which the reader need fcarcely be informed is a heavy cudgel ap- 
plied violently to the foles of the feet), or is condemned to the pay- 
ment of a fine. The weights are of courfe deflroyed. 

If any fraud is to be apprehended, it is more efpecially among thofe 
whom the Turks rank as unbelievers, and particularly among the Jews, 
who maintain here the character with which they are too generally 
charged ; they are prone to extortion, and in truth to deal with them 
requires much circumfpection. From what I was able to obferve in 
the bazars, I am inclined to think that the Turks are fair dealers. In 
fpeaking of the manner in which fraudulent tradefpeople are treated, it 
may not be improper to mention, that a peculiar punilhment is inflicted 
in this country upon bakers who tranfgrefs the law, either by felling 
bread of light weight or of bad quality : they have their ears nailed 
to their own door pofl for public view. In arbitrary governments 
the police ought to be good, for the punifliments are always fangui- 
nary and cruel. 

In the courfe of my perambulation, I went into a" mop, where I 
took a draught of fherbet cooled with ice. This liquor is made in 
various ways, with or without the acid : it is very cooling and refrefh- 
ing, and is fold at the very moderate price of a para* the cup. 

I was now confirmed in the obfervation I had made on my firft ar- 
rival, that the ftreets of Conflantinople are, without exception, nar- 

* A para is nearly equal to a halfpenny •, forty paras make one piaftre, and one 
piaftre is worth one {hilling and fixpence of our money. 

F 



34 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

row, ill paved, and dirty. Almoft all the houfes are built with win- 
dows projc&ing to the ftreets, which nearly touch thofe of their 
oppofite neighbours ; this cuftom greatly obftrucls the free circulation 
of air through the ftreets. The roofs of the houfes are miferably ill 
covered ; they are formed of a reddifh tile, loofely put on without 
any fattening ; occafionally loofe ftones are laid on here and there, 
but a cat running over the top of a houfe will frequently untile it ; 
confequently they are wretchedly conftructed for rainy or tempes- 
tuous weather. The external appearance of the houfes is at the fame 
.time heavy and difmal, all the ornaments being referved for the inte- 
rior. I entered the outer court of the Seraglio, beyond which ftrangers 
are not allowed to pafs, and had a fight of the mint, where the work- 
men were bufily employed. It is fituated within the enclofure. The 
filver coin has been debafed to a very extraordinary degree, the fdver 
it contains having been progreffively reduced to about thirty parts in 
an hundred. This adulteration is faid to have been introduced in aid 
of the public revenue ; and as the coin ftill retains its ancient nominal 
value, the confequence has been, that the counterfeit money of the 
forgers is become of greater value than that iffued from the public 
trcafury, notwithstanding the dealers in this illicit traffic turn their 
fpeculation to a very good account. 

From the mint I walked to the vicinity of the mofque of Santa 
Sophia, which is certainly a very maffive building, but which, con- 
fidcrcd in an architectural point of view, is, in my opinion, very infe- 
rior to our St. Paul's. With the exception of the dome, and of the 
four minarets which are detached, there is nothing very lingular or 
Unking in the pile. 



SYRIA, AND" EGYPT. 35 

I proceeded thence to the atmeydan, the place or field of horfes, 
or, as it was anciently called, the hippodrome, a very extenfive open 
Ipace or circus, fet afide for athletic exercifes and public fpeclacles. 
Here the Turks exhibit a kind of military fport, called the djarid. The 
combatants are mounted, and armed with a flick or wand of a con- 
fiderable length, which is darted with great force by the affailant, and 
as fkilfully avoided by his antagonifl. This exercife is very much in 
vogue among the Turks of condition. In the middle of this fpace 
flands an antique column or obelifk, of a {ingle block of granite, the 
fides of which are filled with various Egyptian figures and hierogly- 
phics. One of our party undertook to meafure it, which he accom- 
plifhed by a calculation drawn from a comparifon between the fhadow 
of a flick and that of the column, the height of which was found to 
be about fixty feet. The bafe is about feven feet in height, and is 
curioufly fculptured in bas-relief with a great variety of human heads. 
At the extremity of the fquare there are the remains of a pillar, formed 
by the twilling of three brazen ferpents. Formerly their heads made 
the capital of the pillar. Mahomet the fecond, when he took Con- 
flantinople, beat off the jaw of one of thefe heads. 

Palling through a flreet, we came to another large and elevated 
antique column, called the Burnt Pillar, which, amidfl the confla- 
grations that have fo frequently occurred, and have unfortunately 
fo much ravaged the city of Conflantinople, has flood its ground. 
It has, however, a very dingy hue, and a confiderable number of fif- 
fures, occafioned by the different fires which have taken place in its 
vicinity, infomuch that it is now encircled by iron hoops to keep it 
together. 



36 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

After our excurfion, we dined on board the New Adventure trans- 
port ; and in the afternoon went on board the Charon to take leave, 
Die being on the eve of failing from Confiiantinople for Gibraltar. I 
did not reach Buyukdere until midnight. The weather had been 
extremely fultry during the day, the thermometer being at eighty- 
eight in the made. 

On the 13th I rode to Levant Chiflick. On my return, I heard 
the Charon falute the Grand Seignor in paffing the Seraglio point. 

On the evening of the 14th I went to a kiofque in Buyukdere, 
where the Greeks were affembled to ling, dance, and partake of other 
amufements. I joined the promenade afterwards in the meadow, in 
which there was a very numerous alTemblage of Greeks, Turks, and 
others. It being Sunday, the inhabitants of all the neighbouring vil- 
lages were collected ; and the groups which were formed, by the 
variety of their coflumes, and the characterise traits peculiar to each 
nation, had a very pleafing, and to me a very novel effect. While 
the Greeks difplayed all the gaiety and nonchalance which belong to 
their character, the Turks, with much gravity, had recourfe to their 
conftant companion the pipe, and in the intervals of fmoking took 
coffee. 

On the 15th I rode to Levant Chiflick, where I vifited the Aga and 
fcvcral other Turks who were indifpofed. On the preceding day we 
had made an appointment with Mr. Spurring, the Englim (hip-builder 
at Constantinople, to vifit the Sultan Sclim, the fhip which bore the 
flag of the Capitan Pacha. We were the more anxious to do this, as 
the Turkilh fleet w as to fail in the courfe of a few days for the Dar- 
danelles. We went on board accordingly, and found her to be a re- 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 37 

markably fine vefTel : we were told, however, that her timbers were 
not proportioned to her fize, and that me would work very ill in 
tempeftuous weather, and in a rough fea. The Sultan Selim mounts 
one hundred and twenty forty-two pounders, befides other guns of a 
fmaller caliber. The Capitan Pacha's cabin was fitted up in a very 
elegant ftyle. At the fides were fufpended a confiderable number of 
rich and beautiful fabres, piftols, and mufkets, which, being fet with 
a profufion of diamonds, and curioufiy inlaid with gold, made a very 
glittering and fliowy appearance. The furniture and other decora- 
tions of the cabin were in a correiponding ftyle of magnificence. Se- 
veral Englim prints, reprefenting our celebrated naval victories, were 
hung up. 

We were entertained by the captain of the mip, a great favourite 
of the Capitan Pacha, with fweetmeats, liqueurs, coffee, &c. He ac- 
companied us in our vifit to the different parts of the veffel, which 
was very clean, and kept in good order. She had on board fourteen 
hundred men, among whom that ftricl: difcipline by which the 
Englim men of war are diftinguifhed did not appear to be kept up. 
The place fet apart for the fick was very ill calculated for that pur- 
pofe ; and but little attention feemed to be paid to this part of the 
Turkifh economy, than which nothing can be more momentous on 
fhipboard. To the difregard with which the fick were treated, may- 
be added, as a proof of the barbarifm of this people, the little encou- 
ragement beftowed on thofe who had the charge of them. The fur- 
geon of the Sultan Selim allured me, that his annual falary amounted 
to twelve guineas only of our money, infomuch that his chief depen- 
dence, and that a very precarious one, was on prefents. With fb 



38 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

inadequate a remuneration for his fervices, whatever might have been 
his talents, little was to be expected from his zeal. After this vifit 
to the Sultan Sclim, I dined on board the New Adventure tranfport, 
and returned to Buyukdere in the evening. 

On the lOth and 17th nothing particular occurred. I rode, as 
ufual, to Levant Chiflick. On my reaching that place, on the morn- 
ing of the 18th, I was introduced to the Kai ma kan, and Hadgi 
Ibrahim Effendi, who had come thither for the purpofe of a general 
infpection and exercife of the Turkifli troops. Our men fired feveral 
rounds, and received a prefent of an hundred fheep and three hun- 
dred piaftres. The parade being broken up, I returned to Buyukdere. 

The igth and 20th were without any interefting occurrence. On 
the 2lft, in the afternoon, a party being made, we cro{fed the river 
from Buyukdere to Afia, and walked to the fummit of the Giant's 
Hill, a very high mountain, from which we had a delightful view of 
the different windings of the Bofphorus, and alfo of the Black Sea. 

On my arrival at Chiflick on the 22d, 1 was informed that a con- 
fiderable number of fick and wounded Turkifh foldiers, from Acre, 
in Syria, were hourly expected there. I agreed to fee them on the 
following day. 

On the 23d, after having vifited the above mentioned fick and 
wounded Turkifh foldiers, I returned, in the evening, to Buyukdere. 

On the 24th I went to Constantinople, where I had an interview 
with his Excellency Hadgi Ibrahim EfTendi, the Turkifh fecretary at 
war, on the fubject of the Turkifli fick and wounded in Levant Chif- 
lick, and returned to Buyukdere in the evening. 

On the 25 th I reached Chiflick early in the morning, and had a 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 39 

long converfation with Hadgi Ibraham EfTendi, and the Aga, or Com- 
mandant, on the bufinefs above referred to. It was agreed that I 
mould make all the neceffary regulations for the nek and wounded 
Turks ; that I mould diredl the fitting up of the hofpital bedfteads, 
&c. ; and that I mould be aided in my daily attendance by a Turkifh 
furgeon. On the following day I met by appointment, at Levant 
Chiflick, the Grand Seignor's furgeon, the furgeon in chief to the 
army, and two other army furgeons, the latter of whom Were ap- 
pointed to affift me. I was informed by them that the Grand Seignor 
had given to each of the foldiers returned from Syria twenty-four 
piaftres, and a fchillink of filver to wear in his turban. 

I pafs over my immediate operations at Levant Chiflick, as not 
being of general interefr., with the brief obfervation, that many of the 
Turkifh foldiers being badly wounded, I was very fully and ferioufly 
employed, and proceed to the 30th, when I was called up at mid- 
night, and a note delivered to me from Major Fletcher, to inform me 
that the Grand Seignor, who was to be at Kaithanah the following 
morning, to fee the experiments which were to be made with red- 
hot mot, the artillery practice, &c. was defirous that all the perfons 
belonging to the Britifh military miffion mould be prefent on the 
occafion. 



40 



TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 



CHAPTER IV. 

VISIT TO LEVANT CHIPLICK, IN COMPLIANCE WITH THE ORDERS OP THE 
GRAND SEIGNOR PRACTICE WITH RED-HOT SHOT PRESENTS DISTRI- 
BUTED TO THE OFFICERS AND MEN ORDERS TO ATTEND THE GRAND 

SEIGNOR AGAIN — -INTERVIEW WITH HIM CONSULTED BY THE AGA 

GRAND PROCESSION ON THE OPENING OF THE FESTIVAL OF THE BEY- 

RAM COURBAM TURKISH ENTERTAINMENT REMARKS ON THE PRODUC- 
TIONS OF THE SEASON IN TURKEY, ON THE DISEASES OF THE COUNTRY, 
AND THE STATE OF MEDICAL SCIENCE THERE PROCESSION AND FESTI- 
VAL OF THE DERVISES REMARKS ON THE CLIMATE AND WEATHER 

VILLAGE AND AQUEDUCTS OF BELGRADE CHARACTER OF THE TURKISH 

VILLAGES VISIT TO THE ASIATIC SHORE ORDER FOR REMOVAL OF 

THE TROOPS FIRE NEAR CONSTANTINOPLE DESCRIPTION OF SANTA 

SOPHIA — GREEK MARRIAGE REMARKS ON THE TURKISH FORTRESSES- 
EMBARKATION OF THE TROOPS. 

compliance with the intimation we had received, we breakfafted 
at half paft three in the morning, and proceeded without delay- 
to Levant Chiflick, where we joined our detachment. About eight 
o'clock we arrived at Kaithanah, and the Grand Seignor, his principal 
officers and fuite, made their appearance fhortly after. 

During the artillery practice, the experiments with red-hot mot, 
&c. the Grand Seignor was feated in the beautiful kiofquc, or plea- 
fure-houfe, which I have already noticed. He paid a particular at- 
tention to every thing which paffed ; and when the whole was con- 
cluded, made each of us a trifling prefent. Thefe prefents were de-r 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 41 

livered to us by one of his fuite, who tendered theirrto us refpeclively 
as we palled, one by one, according to our rank, in front of the Grand 
Seignor. Each of us having received the prefent deftined for him, 
bowed, and was defired to retire. This ceremony having been con- 
cluded, the non-commiffioned officers were brought up to receive 
prefents for themfelves and the privates. 

On the Sift, on my arrival at Chiflick, early in the morning, I met 
the Grand Seignor's furgeon, with whom I vifited the wounded 
Turks. Several of them w 7 ere already in a {late of recovery. In our 
own infirmary I found four cafes of intermittent fever. The men 
who laboured under this complaint, had been fent to Kaithanah fome 
weeks before to affift in the erection of the furnace for the heating of 
mot ; and having been detained there for feveral days, were expofed 
to marm miafma, which is well known to be a raoft powerful agent 
in the production of intermittents. 

On the lft of Auguft, General Koehler, Lieutenant-colonel Hollo- 
way, and Major Hope, returned to Buyukdere from the Dardanelles. 

On my reaching Chiflick to vifit the fick and wounded, I received 
a melTage requefting me to wait, as the Grand Seignor was on his 
way thither, and might wifh to make fome enquiries of me relative 
to the flate of the wounded Turks, and the arrangements made for 
them. He arrived about noon, attended by his principal minifters, 
his officers of Hate, and a very numerous retinue, all richly dreffed, 
and fuperbly mounted. His arrival was announced by difcharges of 
artillery, and other public demonfbations of joy. It being a grand 
field day, the Turkilh foldiers went through their manoeuvres and ex- 
ercifes, after which each of them was marched to the front of the 

G 



42 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

Aga's houfe, where the Grand Seignor was feated, and received a pre- 
fent of five piaftres. I was now pointed out to the Saltan, and hav- 
ing paid my refpecls to him, received from him a trifling prefent, ac- 
companied by a meiTage to requeft of me to have the goodnefs to take 
all poffible care of the wounded, for which fervice I mould not . fail to 
be properly remunerated. The Aga being indifpofed, confulted me 
as to the nature of his ailments. I found him feverifh, prefcribed for 
him, and promifed to fee him, provided it mould be necefTary, at his 
refidence at Bimictam, on the bank of the Bofphorus, near Pera. 

On the 2d, I went to Chiflick, where I vifited the fick and Wounded, 
Turks, and afterwards rode to Bifhiclafh to fee the Aga, who was ftill 
indifpofed. 

On the 3d and 4th, I repeated my vifits to the above places, and 
found the Aga, as well as the greater part of the wounded Turks, in a 
fair way of recovery. 

On the 5th, on my arrival at Chiflick, I faw his excellency, with 
whom I had a converfation relative to the wounded Turks. They 
were all of them doing very well, and in particular two, from the 
thigh of one of whom I had a few days before extracted a ball, and 
from the hip of the other a fplinter of gun metal. It may ftrike my 
readers with furprife that the wounded men having been brought 
from fo confiderable a diftance as Acre, thefe operations mould ftill 
have been left to be performed. 

On the 13th, on my reaching Chiflick, I found there the furgeon 
to the Grand Seignor, by whom I was informed, that early in the 
morning of the following day the Grand Seignor would go in procef- 
fion from the Seraglio to the mofque of Sultan Achmet, to celebrate 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 43 

the opening of the Beyram Courbam, or month of facrifice, the fe- 
cond pafchal feaft. He invited me to Conftantinople to be prefent at 
this ceremony. 

The feftival of the Beyram, which fucceeds the Turkifti ramazan, 
or lent, is the feafon of pleafures and feftivities of every defcription. 
He muft be poor indeed, who has not new clothes provided for the 
occafion ; and among the better fort of people rich dreffes are given 
and received as prefents. The ftreets and public places are filled with 
groups, whofe amufements and paftimes are varied according to the 
nation to which they belong. It may ftriclly be denominated a paf- 
chal feaft, fince, at its opening, fheep are facrificed by the Grand 
Seignor, and by all the diftinguifhed and opulent Turks. The animals 
thus immolated, have their horns gilt, and their wool nicely combed. 
It is fo contrived as that thefe offerings mould be made at the pre- 
cife hour when limilar facrifices take place at Mecca. 

At three o'clock in the morning of the 14th, I fet out from Chif- 
lick, where I had fpent the preceding night, and was, on my arrival 
at Pera, joined by Captains Lacy and Leake. We reached Conftan- 
tinople at five o'clock, and proceeded to the houfe of a furgeon, 
from whofe mop we were to be gratified by a fight of the proceffion, 
as it palled. In this houfe we breakfafled, and were entertained in 
the following manner. Pipes and coffee were firft ferved, and were, 
followed by a very agreeable and palatable preparation of milk, called 
caimac, which was accompanied by hot fugared cakes, and melons. 
Our repaft was concluded by a fecond fervice of coffee ; and during 
our ftay, fherbet and pipes were brought to us at intervals. 

About eight o'clock the proceffion commenced ; but the Grand 

G 2 



44 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

Seignor did not make his appearance until half-paft nine. The dreffes 
of all thofe who compofed the proceffion were fplendid and coftly. 
The fine horfes on which they were mounted, and more efpecially 
thofe of the eunuchs and principal officers of Hate, were moft gor- 
geoufly caparifoned, the houfings of many of them being of gold 
embroidery, ftudded with precious {tones, by which a very brilliant 
effect was produced. In the turban of the Grand Seignor was a 
beautiful aigrette of very great value, the diamonds of which it was 
compofed being of uncommon magnitude. Several of his horfes, on 
which his fhield and various trophies were carried, were led in the 
proceffion ; and being very richly caparifoned, and ornamented with 
a profufion of diamonds, rubies, and other precious ftones, gave a 
brilliancy and magnificence to the fcene, which far exceeded any idea 
I could previoufly have formed of it. 

During the proceffion, a Turkifh officer was conftantly employed 
in throwing on the heads of the populace handfuls of new paras. The 
conteft which enfued, to pick them up, afforded to the Turkifh fpec- 
tators no little amufement. 

The Grand Seignor, who was very fuperbly mounted, was followed 
by his fword-bearer, carrying his fabre, the hilt of which was profufely 
fluddcd with diamonds. Next came feveral officers of his feraglio 
richly dreifed, bearing on cufliions his turbans, ornamented with dia- 
monds and other gems. The ftrects were lined on each fide with ja- 
niffaries, whofe drefs-caps appeared to me both ridiculous and unbe- 
coming. As the Sultan paffed along, he from time to time bowed 
with great affability to the people, all of whom proftrated themfelves 
on his approach. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 45 

The kiflah aga, or chief of the eunuchs, officiated at the mofque, 
and wore on his return a valuable pelice and a rich caftan, with which 
the Grand Seignor had prefented him. Several other caftans, of 
qualities fuited to the rank of thofe for whom they were deftined, 
were distributed by the Sultan on this occafion. 

The proceffion was conducted with great decorum, and throughout 
the whole of it the belt order obferved. It would be impoffible for 
me to attempt to defcribe all the ftriking appearances it exhibited, 
or to enter into a detail of the great variety and extreme iingularity 
of the magnificent consumes which were difplayed. To be brief — it 
afforded to us ftrangers a fpectacle truly novel and interefting, and 
fully repaid us for the trouble we had taken to be comprehended 
among the number of the fpectators. By eleven o'clock the ftreets 
were cleared. 

Selim III. the prefent Sultan, is extremely popular with his fub- 
jecls, and by no means deftitute of the talents and abilities which a 
fovereign ought to pofTefs. He is defcended from the houfe of Ofman, 
by whom the fifth dynafty of the caliphs was eftablifhed in the thir- 
teenth century. Having received a more liberal education than has 
ufually been bellowed in Turkey on thofe to whofe lot the fucceffion 
has fallen, Sultan Selim pofTefTes a well cultivated mind, and has 
made himfelf acquainted with the policy of the more refined ftates 
of Europe. It is, therefore, not furprifmg, that he has introduced fo 
many falutary innovations into his empire ; and, from a conviction 
of their manifefh fuperiority, has become fo ftrenuous a partizan of 
the tactics and military difcipline of England and France. In my 
fubfequent details relative to the Grand Vifier and the Capitan Pacha, 



4i TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

I mall have occafion to notice, in a particular manner, the improve- 
ments he has introduced in his army and marine. He is of a courte- 
ous and affable character ; and his phyfiognomy is fine and full of 
expreflion. His figure is well proportioned, and his afpedl command- 
ing. His portrait is faithfully given in Plate II. 

My companions and myfelf were invited, after the proceffion, to 
dine with the Grand Seignor's furgeon, at whore houfe we were very 
well entertained in the Turkifh ftile ; and notwithftanding we were, 
in eating, compelled to adopt the mode praclifed by the Turks, that 
is, that we were unprovided with either knife, fork, or plate, we con- 
trived to make a good dinner. The following is a concife defcription 
of thefe repafts. A cloth having been laid on the floor, a fmall table 
with the legs turned uppermoft is placed on it, and on this again is 
laid a large circular waiter of tinned copper, round which the com- 
pany feat themfelves. Before each of the guefts, bread in the form 
of a flat pancake, and two fpoons are placed. The dimes are ferved 
up fingly, one after the other ; and if filled with foup or liquid food, 
the fpoons are reforted to. If, on the other hand, they contain folids, 
the guefts help themfelves with the thumb and finger. However re- 
pugnant this cuftom muft have been to the feelings and ideas of 
Englifhmcn, a keen appetite, and the favourinefs of the diflies, in 
fome mcafurc reconciled us to it ; and cuftom, which fways us fb 
powerfully, enabled us, in the fequel, entirely to get the better of our 
fcjueamiihnefs. The meats are in general cut fmall for the conve- 
nience of thofe who are to partake of them ; but on the prefent oc- 
cafion whole ducks were ferved. Thefe the donor of the feaft pulled 
in pieces with his fingers, and diftributed the portions to his guefts. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 47 

Pipes and coffee were brought in after dinner, and we at length took 
our leave. 

On the 15th, in the morning, I accompanied General Koehler to 
Pera, and from thence to Constantinople, where we had an interview 
of nearly two hours with his Excellency Hadgi Ibrahim Effendi, with 
whom the general had fbme particular bufmefs to tranfact. In the 
courfe of this vifit, a filver falver, containing conferve of rofes, and 
other fweetmeats, was handed round, in addition to the ufual refrefli- 
ments of pipes and coffee. When we were about to take leave, each 
of us was prefented with two finely wrought rnuflin handkerchiefs. 
I ought not to omit here the concluding part of the ceremony. After 
we had taken a draught of fherbet, which was prefented to us, our 
hands were fprinkled with rofe water, and a filver vefTel brought in,, 
containing odoriferous gums in an inflamed ftate.. The afcending 
vapours of thefe gums are by the Turks received on their beards ; but 
as we were deftitute of that ornament, we contented ourfelves with 
fmelling to them, and receiving them in our hands, which we rubbed, 
together to retain the odour. We then bowed and retired. 

Much rain fell this day, accompanied with loud claps of thunder, 
and very vivid flames of lightning. The ftorm continued throughout 
the evening. 

On my arrival at Chiflick, on the morning of the 10th, I found, 
that feveral of the wounded Turks who had been under my care,, 
being now perfectly cured,, were to fet off the next morning for Alex- 
andria, with a detachment of two hundred and fifty Turkifh foldiers. 

On the 17th, the Turkifh furgeons who had lent me their afTiftance 
there, having embarked the preceding evening with the detachment,. 



4 8 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

I had no other than my own exertions to depend upon. In returning 
to Buyukdere, I obferved that the country exhibited a new and very 
pleafmg afpect fince the fall of the late heavy fhowers, which had 
come very feafonably to enable the country people to plough and the 
till their lands. Grapes were now in feafon, as were alfo melons : 
latter were of two kinds, the mufk melon, and the water melon, and 
were both cheap and in plenty. 

The grapes, which were extremely large, and fine, were fold at 
three and four paras the oke. 

Among the prevailing difeafes in Turkey, the rickets are very 
common in children, and blindnefs in adults. 

The lame and deformed objects who conftantly obtrude themfelves 
on the view, are in fuch numbers as to excite aftonifhment. 

Pulmonary complaints, as far as I had occafion to obferve, are by 
no means prevalent in this country ; the catarrhal and afthmatic 
affections prevail moft among elderly people. 

The Turks are certainly not fubject to the multitude of difeafes 
which infeft fome other nations. Sores and wounds are managed 
and healed with more facility ; much may be afcribed to their tem- 
perance. Fontanelles, or nTues, are in common ufe ; and fomewhat 
lefTcn the evils refulting from the indolent, and inactive life which 
the Turks in general lead. Cutaneous affections, herpetic and tettery 
eruptions are common, particularly upon the head: dyfpepfia, and 
other ftomach complaints, prevail very generally. Their greafy food, 
inactive life, their exceflcs in the ufe of fmoking tobacco, and opium, 
may give rife to thefe diforders. Hernias are common. Befides 
plague, they are occafionally fubject to malignant and bilious remit- 
tent and intermittent fevers in autumn. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 49 

In Conflantinople, Pera, and the fuburbs, there are, it is faid, 
nearly five thoufand persons who profefs the different branches of 
the medical art. They are natives of almoft every nation, but confift 
more particularly of Turks, Greeks, Armenians, and Italians, and are 
for the greater part utterly ignorant of the principles either of medi- 
cine or of furgery. There are, however, fome exceptions to this 
obfervation, and among them a Mr. Ruine, an Italian, whom I ac- 
cidentally met with a few days before the period of which I am now 
treating. He occafionally attends the Grand Seignor, when indif- 
pofed, as well as the Harem, and many of the principal officers of ftate. 
For thefe fervices he has no falary, but is paid for his vifits. His 
practice is extremely lucrative. The perfon who at prefent holds 
the appointment of phyfician to the Sultan, is a Turk, who, not- 
withstanding he is entirely unacquainted with medicine, receives an 
annual ftipend of nearly five thoufand pounds fterling. Almoft every 
individual m Turkey has a noftrum for fome difeafe or other. 

On the 18th, in the afternoon, in company with fome of our of- 
ficers, we croffed over to the Afiatic fide of the river to fee the pro- 
ceffion of the dervifes, it being the birth-day of the founder of that 
feci:. We were unfortunately too late to be prefent at this cere- 
mony, which, as we afterwards heard, was very numeroufly attended. 
We had, however, a very agreeable walk in the delightful valley in 
which the affembly w T as held. The Janiffary by whom we were 
accompanied for our protection, in his eagernefs to get our boat 
ready, was pufhed into the water, and otherwife maltreated, by a 
boatman belonging to the Sultana Valida, or Queen Mother, who 
had come privately to witnefs the above ceremony. This mfult 

H 



5 o TRAWLS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

being in a manner confidered as offered to ourfelves, a reprefentation 
of the particulars of the affray was made by General Koehler, to 
whom an apology was afterwards fent. 

On the 2] ft, the heat of the weather was very oppreffive, the 
thermometer being, at eight o'clock in the morning, at 115 in the 
fun. 

On my arrival at Chiflick on the 22d, I found one of the men 
belonging to the Britifh miffion dangeroufly ill with a fever. 

On the 26th, it being the fete of the aflumption of the blefTed 
Virgin, which the Greeks celebrate with much pomp, in the evening 
great numbers of them were affembled in the meadow, and in their 
holiday dreffes. 

On the 27th, another of our men was feized dangeroufly ill with 
a fever. 

The reader will perhaps find the frequent mention of the changes 
of the weather fomewhat tedious, but nothing ferves fo well to give 
an idea of the climate and fituation. In the courfe of this afternoon 
there was much thunder and lightning, and throughout the whole 
of the day very heavy and fudden fliowers of rain fell. 

On the 28th much rain had fallen during the night ; and on the 
29th the rains continued to fall with unabated violence. 

I dined at Buyukdere, in company with all the officers belonging 
to the miffion, and with Count Ludolf, the Neapolitan envoy, who 
gave us a very polite reception, and entertained us with great hofpi- 
tality. The evening was very cool and pleafant, and it was to be 
prcfumcd that as the rains had now fallen in great abundance, they 
would be fucceeded by fine weather. During the months of Sep- 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 51 

tembcr and October the weather is in general very pleafant and 
agreeable in Turkey ; and this feafon the natives call the little or 
fecond fummer. 

On my arrival at Chiflick, on the morning of the 30th, I found 
that a military artificer, Greenhalch, had expired in the courfe of 
the preceding afternoon. 

On the lit of September the officers of the miffion dined with 
General Koehler, and met there Count Ludolf, the Neapolitan en- 
voy ; and in the evening went to the palace of the Ruffian minifter, 
Monfieur Tomara, where there was a ball. It being Sunday, fome 
repugnance was felt at being prefent at thefe entertainments : it was, 
however, prudent- to conform to the eftablifhed ufages. 

On the 4th I vifited Chiflick, and found that Kannaird, a mili- 
tary artificer, had departed this life in the courfe of the preceding 
afternoon. 

On my reaching Chiflick on the 5 th, I was called to the child 
of a private belonging to the royal artillery, whofe fkull had been 
fractured by a fall from a window. It furvived this accident a few 
hours only. 

A party having been formed on the 7th, we made an excurfion to 
the village of Belgrade, diflant from Conftantinople twelve or four- 
teen miles, and to the aqueducts in its vicinity. Among thefe we 
faw that which was erected in the reign of Jufcinian, and under his 
immediate direction. We vifited the interior of this aqueduct, a 
large magnificent ftructure, in a very fine ftyle of architecture, and 
pafTed through the different galleries or paffages. Our promenade 
ended there ; and we returned to the woods near the village of Bel- 
li 2 



5 2 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

grade, where, our provifions having been fpread on the green fod, 
which ferved us for a table, we dined beneath the cool and refrefh- 
ing fhade of" a clutter of lofty trees. 

The country in the vicinity of Belgrade abounds in groves and 
fine woodland fcenery. To us, who had remained fo long in the 
environs of Constantinople, it prefented a fcene of equal novelty and 
intercft. It was our firffc vifit to this enchanting fpot ; and brought 
to our recollection all the encomiums which Lady Mary Wortley 
Montague has beftowed on it in her Letters. If it is not precifely 
the paradife me has defcribed, it is unquestionably one of the moft 
beautiful fpots in that part of the world. We palled through two 
fmall villages, which were of the fame defcription with thofe I 
had hitherto feen in Turkey ; that is, the houfes and the inhabitants 
were alike in a wretched Irate. To render the face of the country 
more agreeable and piclurefque, a few fcattered hamlets were want- 
ing : the aqueducts, however, by interfering the villages, gave- to 
the fcenery a confiderable degree of intereft. 

On the 8th, the officers of the million dined with the Ruffian 
ambalTador, where we were as ufual fumptuoufly entertained. 

On the 12th I made an engagement with the officers belonging 
to a Ruffian man of war lying in the harbour, to accompany them 
to the Afiatic fhore on the following morning. 

On the 13th, at ten in the morning, we crofTed over to Afia. The 
day was delightful ; and we made a very agreeable excurfion into 
the country. On our return, carpets were fpread in the fhade, and 
a cold collation ferved. The Ruffian failors entertained us with fe- 
veral fongs, which the furgeon accompanied on a kind of harp. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 53 

Nothing deferving of notice occurred until the 20th, when the 
Magnet, an Englifh merchantman, which had been long expected, 
anchored off the Seraglio Point. This day General Koehler fhifted 
his refidence from Buyukdere to Galata. On my reaching Chiflick, 
on the 22d, I found Smith, an artificer, labouring under an attack 
of malignant fever. 

The fucceeding days were marked by no particular occurrence 
until the 28 th, when, on my vifrt to Chiflick barracks, I found that 
Smith, the artificer, the fymptoms of whofe fever had daily afTumed 
a ftronger degree of malignity, had died in the courfe of the pre* 
ceding evening. His body was already in a high Hate of putrefac- 
tion ; and the fame fever having broken out among the inhabitants 
of Chiflick, I wrote to General Koehler, to advife that our people 
fliould be immediately removed. From the general I learned in 
return, that the detachment was to be embarked on board the trans- 
port then lying off Tophana, and to proceed in her to the Darda- 
nelles, as foon as the fteps preparatory to the expedition mould have 
been taken. 

On my return from Chiflick, on the 29th, I rode towards an an- 
cient tower, which Europeans have denominated the tower of Ovid, 
and which is conjectured to have been originally a fignal tower, from 
which the inhabitants were warned of the approach of the veffels of 
the CofTacks, whofe piracies on the coafts of the Euxine Sea, near 
which this tower ftands, were formerly fb much dreaded. 

On the iff of October, in the evening, a large fire broke out in a 
village near Conftantinople, fituated above the arfenal. It was a. 



54 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

truly grand and awful fpectacle ; but the whole of the damage was 
confined to the deftruclion of fome houfes. 

In the morning after this event, I went to Conftantinople, where 
I vifited the mofque of Santa Sophia, and the mad-houfe, fituated 
at the extremity of the Hippodrome, or Atmeydan. 

Santa Sophia, as has been already mentioned, was formerly a chrif- 
tian church, and built by the Emperor Juftin. It was converted 
by the Turks into a mofque, ftill however retaining its original name. 
This building, which always attracts the attention of travellers, is a 
hundred and fourteen paces in length, and eighty in breadth : the. 
dome, which covers the centre of the building, is in the form of a 
half globe, rather deprefTed, and is altogether fingular in its ftyle of 
architecture. 

Within fide the mofque there is a porch that ranges round its 
fides, which fupports another gallery thirty paces broad, both vaulted 
over, and fupported by a great number of beautiful pillars, many of 
which are of verd antique. Thefe columns uphold the building. 
You arrive at the upper gallery by means of an ealy winding, but 
paved afcent (or ftair cafe), up which horfes can eafily afcend. At 
one end of this gallery there is an enclofed place, with a gilt grating 
or lattice work, for the Sultan's ufe, when he vifits this mofque. 

On the outfide there are four tall minarets, or fteeples, and foun- 
tains where the Turks perform their ablutions always previous to 
prayer. Many fmall lamps, offcrich eggs, &c. are fufpendcd as orna- 
ments in the centre of the mofque, the part which the pious prin- 
cipally occupy when at prayer. The floor is covered with mats. To 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 55 

enter this, as well as all other mofques, it is neceffary to be provided 
with clean flippers to pull on over the boots or fhoes of Chriflians, 
as the Turks will not allow them to enter without obferving this 
ceremony. 

To procure admittance, however, within the mofques, a Frank 
mull be furnimed with a firman, or written authority from the 
Turkifh government ; but the Muffulman after all makes him pay 
handfomely for the gratification of his curiofity. 

After having amufed myfelf by walking through the different 
bazars, I returned to Buyukdere in the evening. 

On the 3d, in the morning, I called on Mr. Spencer Smith, the 
Britifh minifter, who had jufl received the melancholy tidings of the 
death of Major Fead, of the royal artillery. On the 13th of the lafl 
month, being on board Le Tigre, commanded by Sir Sydney Smith, 
he fell a victim to an attack of malignant fever, in the prime of life.. 
He was an active and zealous officer. 

On the 4th, in taking my cuflomary ride to Chiflick, I obferved 
that the vintage was begun. The inhabitants were all bufied in 
their vineyards, in gathering the grapes, which, having been picked 
from the flalks, were thrown into barrels, and thefe laid acrofs the 
backs of horfes to be conveyed home. 

Our final orders having been received on the 5th, to proceed to 
Galata on the following Monday, the Qth, we were bufily employed 
during the whole of the day in the neceffary preparations for our 
removal. 

On the 6th, in the evening, I was prefent at another feftivity, 
that of the marriage of the daughter of a Mr. Hidey, a Greek mer- 



5 6 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

chant. The young girls of that nation, who were affembled to ce- 
lebrate the nuptials, were decked in their gaudieft apparel, and the 
evening was fpent in dancing and other amufements. 

On the morning of the 7 th, the officers belonging to the Britifh 
miffion left Buyukdere. 

On the 8th, in the morning, I proceeded up the Bofphorus in a 
boat as far as its junction with the Euxine Sea, and landed at the 
raoft diftant village on the European fide, where the inhabitants 
were bufily engaged in falting a kind of mackerel of a very large fize. 
Near to this village, upon the more, there is a very capacious lant- 
horn erected, by the light of which by night veffels are directed 
into the Bofphorus from the Black Sea ; fo named, I imagine, from 
the black clouds and flormy weather which frequently come over 
this fea. There is a rock {landing in the water, and contiguous to 
this village, upon which formerly (it is faid) a pillar of marble flood, 
vulgarly called the pillar of Pompey. 

For fome time paft the weather had been cold and rainy, the 
thermometer having been fo low as 55. 

On the 10th, a model of the upper caftle at Sultania, or Chenne- 
cally, on the Afiatic fide of the Dardanelles, made under the direc- 
tion of Lieutenant-colonel Holloway, with the improvements fug- 
gefled by him, was prefented to his Excellency Hadgi Ibrahim Ef- 
fendi, fecretary at war, for the Grand Seignor. I mould have ob- 
ferved, that thofe Mahometans who perform the pilgrimage to 
Mecca, are ever after called hadgi's, or pilgrims, and much refpect 
is paid them by the Turks. 

It may not be improper in this place to fay a few words relative 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 57 

to the Turkifh fortifications in general. For the greater part, they 
confift of old turreted caftles, fituated on eminences, and furrounded 
by high walls. Little or no attention is paid to the keeping of them 
in repair ; and, as it is very much to be doubted whether they would 
be of any efficacy in cafe of a foreign attack and invafion, they 
ought, rigoroufly fpeaking, to be confidered merely as fo many cita- 
dels, to awe the inhabitants, and to ferve, in cafes of inteftine com- 
motion, as a fhelter for the weaker party. 

The pachas of the different provinces, at whofe charge thefe works 
ought to be fupported and kept in repair, being quite uncertain how 
long they may be maintained in the enjoyment of their refpective 
governments, make it their fole fludy to enrich themfelves as 
promptly as they can. Indeed, the avarice and indolence by which 
the Turks in general are fo ftrongly characterized, and which effec- 
tually exclude all improvement, prevent them from bellowing either 
pains or ex penfe on their fortifications. To thefe confiderations 
may be added the fatalifm they profefs. They declare themfelves 
fenfible of the approaching decay of their empire ; but have at the 
fame time received an affurance from the koran, that it is to rife 
again in greater fplendor than ever. The fupine and torpid ftate in 
which they are thus immerfed, can only be equalled by the patience 
and refignation which, under all misfortunes, they derive from the 
fame fource. In each adverfe trial they exprefs themfelves by faying 
— " it is the will of Heaven." 

On the fubjecT: of fortifications, they have an ancient proverb 
which fays, that " it belongs to infidels to build, and to muffulmen 

1 



5 8 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

" to take them." This, like all other proverbial fayings, had once 
a ground for its fupport, but by no means applies to the prefent con- 
dition of the Turkifh empire, and to its relative fituation with the 
neighbouring chriftian powers. 

On the 12th, in the morning, our artificers embarked on board 
the tranfport ; and on that day a Ruffian fleet bound to Naples, with 
troops on board, deftined to form the body guard of his Neapolitan 
majefty, anchored in the harbour. On board this fleet were two 
Englifhmen, one a furgeon, the other a lieutenant, who had been 
fome years in the fervice of Ruffia. 

On the 1 3th, on my return from Chiflick and Galata, and after 
having paid a vifit to the imperial palace, I went on board the tranf- 
port to fee the convalefcents. Orders were given for the detachment 
of artillery to quit Chiflick on the following day, and to march to 
Buyukdere. In the evening the officers of the million were prefent 
at a ball and fupper given at the Ruffian palace, in compliment to 
the general of that nation, who commanded the troops deftined for 
Naples. 

On the 15th the detachment arrived at Buyukdere from Chiflick ; 
and on the lOth I rode to Belgrade, and returned to Buyukdere: 
for feveral days paft much rain had fallen. I brought home with 
me fome of the air of Belgrade to examine. The fituation of that 
place is delightfully rural, but fubjecT: to intermittent complaints, 
occafioned by the marfli miafma, exhaled from a valley in its vici- 
nity. The houfe of the Britifli minifter ftands on a higher ground 
than the other buildings, and is confequently the moft agreeable, as 
well as the moft falubrious rcfidence in the village. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 59 

On the 17th, orders were received at Buyukdere to embark the 
whole of the detachment on the following Sunday for the Dardanelles. 

On the IQth, in the evening, we had a ftorm of thunder and 
lightning, attended by occafional mowers. 

On the 2lft, in the morning, I left Buyukdere with the detach- 
ment, which was, without lofs of time, embarked on board the 
tranfport. 

The wind being foul, fo as to detain the tranfport in the harbour, 
I had fufficient leifure, during the two fucceeding days, to vifit all 
my friends and connections, and to take leave. 



6o TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 



CHAPTER V. 

DEPARTURE FROM CONSTANTINOPLE VOYAGE TO CHEN NEC ALLY — SES- 

TOS AND ABYDOS TOWER OF LEANDER ARRIVAL AT CHENNECALLY 

JOIN THE CAPITAN PACHA's FLEET VISIT OF THE OFFICERS ON BOARD 

THE SULTAN SELIM CHARACTER OF THE CAPITAN PACHA PRESENT 

STATE OF THE TURKISH MARINE DISHONESTY OF A TURKISH MARINE 

VISIT TO THE ANCIENT SIGjEAN RECOVERY OF SOME CURIOUS RE- 
MAINS OF ANTIQUITY DESCRIPTION OF THE PLAIN OF TROY, AND 

THE TOMBS OF ACHILLES, FATROCLUS, AND AJAX MOUNT IDA DE- 
SCRIPTION OF CHENNECALLY CASTLES OF THE DARDANELLES ABY- 
DOS DECAPITATION OF A TURKISH ADMIRAL DARDANIA ORDERS 

RECEIVED TO RETURN TO CONSTANTINOPLE — ARRIVAL THERE. 

^~^N the 23d, the wind having become fair, we failed from the 
harbour of Conflantinople. In paffing the Seraglio- point, we 
fired a royal falute, and came to anchor in the evening off Selyvrie, 
a little beyond Buyukcheckmegi, the pilot being apprehenfive that 
we mould otherwife reach the narrows before day-light, and that 
the fafety of the vefTel would thus be endangered. Early the 
next morning we weighed anchor, and fleered towards our destina- 
tion. During the three following days we were becalmed between 
the iflands of Marmora and Gallipoli. In this interval a gunner 
belonging to the detachment fell a vi&im to a dyfenteric complaint. 

On the 28th we anchored in the Dardanelles, oppofite Mito, in 
the bay of Nagara. We were clofe in with the Afiatic fliore, within 
half a mile of the ancient city of Abydos, and about two miles dif- 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 61 

tant from the caftles of Chennecally, to which we were bound. The 
ftation we had taken up was truly claffical, being very near the fpot 
where Leander, if the poets may be credited, fwam acrofs the Hel- 
lefpont to Seftos, to procure an interview with his beloved Hero* 
On the ancient medals of his native city Abydos, he is feen in the 
acT: of fwimming, and endeavouring to reach the tower, on which, 
in commemoration of this event, Hero afterwards placed a torch. 
The veftiges of what is faid to have been the tower, which in later 
times was employed as a light-houfe, are to be feen ftanding on a 
rock at the fea fide. 

About two hours after we had dropped our anchor, the fhip drove, 
and we were in danger of being carried over to the oppofite more.. 
To prevent this we were under the neceflity of cutting our cable, 
and of making fail. We anchored foon after withinfide the Capitan 
Pacha's fleet, and about two miles below the town of Chennecally. 

On our coming to anchor, we faluted the Capitan Pacha with 
feventeen guns. Our falute having; been returned, he came along;- 
fide the tranfport in a very beautiful barge, manned by a confider- 
able number of rowers, and invited General Koehler on board his 
fhip. The invitation was accepted ; and in the interview which 
took place it was fettled that on the following day all the officers 
belonging to the million mould be prefented to the Capitan Pacha. 

In the morning of the 2Qth, the general and officers went on 
board the flag-fhip, the Sultan Selim, of one hundred and thirty 
guns. They were there prefented to the Capitan Pacha, by whom 
they were received with the utmoft attention and politenefs ; they 
were then entertained with pipes, coffee, and a variety of refreih- 



6i TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

meats, and were treated, in addition to the ufual ceremony, with 
' tea a T Avgla'ifc, out of an elegant and fuperb tea equipage. The 
Capitan Pacha did them the honour to accompany them to every 
part of his fhip, which they infpecled minutely, and ordered his 
crew to go through the exercife of the middle deck guns. This was 
done by the word of command, and the manoeuvres executed with 
the greateft precifion and regularity. On his being complimented 
on the excellent order and good difcipline obferved on board his fliip, 
he handfomely declared, that all the merit was due to Captain 
Samuel Hood, of the Saturn, who commanded the ftation off Alex- 
andria, previoufly to the arrival of Sir Sydney Smith. On many 
fubfequent occafions he has exprefTed his obligations to that very 
meritorious and intelligent officer, for the efTential improvements 
which, through him, he has been enabled to introduce into his fleet. 

Kuchuk HuvTein, the prefent Capitan Pacha, or High Admiral, 
was originally a Georgian {lave, and being a great favourite of the 
Sultan, with whom he fpent his childi'fh years, was elevated to his 
prefent office and dignity without having ferved in any fubordinate 
ftation in the Turkilh marine, in the amelioration of which, how- 
ever, he has difplayed great zeal and ability. 

It may be recollected, that at the end of the conteft between the 
Ruffians and Turks, the marine of the latter was in a very wretched 
condition. Kuchuk Huffein has fince exerted himfelf, and not 
wholly without effect, to place it on a more resectable footing. 
Being divefted of the prejudices by which the Turks in general are 
fo powerfully actuated, he has, in concert with the Grand Seignor, 
introduced every innovation which could lead to improvement, and 



Ft. in. 




SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 63 

profited by every information he could colic 61 relative to the more 
advanced {late of naval fcience in the great maritime flates of 
Europe. 

In Plate III. is to be feen a portrait of a Capitan Pacha, one of 
his predeceffors, habited in the robes of ceremony in which he ap- 
pears on all public occafions. 

It is fomewhat fingular that, notwithstanding the Grand Seignor 
pofTefTes more ports and havens than any other European power, and 
is mailer of the Black Sea, the coafts of which fupply him with 
materials for the conftruclion of his fhips of war, and although his 
capital is eftablifhed on one of the finefl harbours in the univerfe, 
flill his navy has for a feries of years made but a very infignificant 
figure in the hiflory of maritime nations. There was a time, in- 
deed, when it vied with the navies of Spain, of Venice, and of fe- 
veral other powers, then deemed of confiderable importance by fea ; 
but it has not kept pace with the progreffive improvements other 
countries have ma.de. Under the prefent Capitan Pacha it is now 
afluming a much more promifmg afpecl. In addition to the more 
advantageous fyllem of naval taclics he is gradually introducing, 
feveral experienced fhip-builders from England, France, and Sweden, 
have been invited to the Turkifh dock-yards, where they have re- 
cently built feveral fine mips of the line, together with frigates and 
fmaller veffels. Thus, was there not a probability that other caufes 
may operate to the decline of the empire, there would be a profpe£t 
that the Ottoman navy might be raifed to that refpeclability to 
which it feems naturally entitled ; for it mould be recollecled that the 
Grand Seignor is the fovereign of thofe nations, by whom the firft 



64 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

rudiments of maritime knowledge were taught, namely, the Pheni- 
cians, the Rhodians, the Greeks inhabiting the coafts of the Archi- 
pelago, the Cretans, &c. nations from their local fituation deftined. 
it fhould feem, to the fcience and practice of navigation. 

hevantt is the term which the Turks apply to the feamen of their 
own nation, as well as to all the foreigners employed in their marine. 
It would appear that it is a corruption of the Italian language, being 
applied by the Italians themfelves to the inhabitants of the coafts of 
Greece, and of the Archipelago, whence the greater part of thefe 
feamen are procured. They are in general a very unprincipled and 
turbulent fet of men, as was more particularly manifefted in Con- 
{lantinople, and in the fuburbs of Pera and Galata, a few days before 
the failing of the Capitan Pacha's fleet. 

To return to my narrative. On the 31 ft the officers and detach- 
ments landed for the purpofe of putting into execution the different 
plans which had been laid before the Grand Seignor, and approved 
by him ; and he had given the neceffary authority to have them 
carried into the fulleft effect. 

On the 2d of November, the Phaeton frigate, Captain Morris, 
arrived in the Dardanelles, having on board his Excellency the Earl 
of Elgin, his Britannic Majefty's ambaffador to the Sublime Porte, 
with his lady and fuite. The general and all the officers of the 
miffion immediately went on board to pay their refpects to his 
Lordfhip, and compliment him on his arrival. The Phaeton faluted 
the Capitan Pacha with nineteen guns, which were returned by an 
equal number. His Excellency, together with Lady Elgin, Captain 
Morris, and the principal pcrfons of the fuite, paid a vifit to the 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 65 

Capitan Pacha on board the Sultan Selim. They were faluted on 
their way by both the fhips ; and accepted of the Capitan Pacha's 
invitation to partake of a Turkifh fupper. 

On the morning of the 3d, the Phaeton frigate, with the above- 
mentioned perfons on board, failed for Conftantinople. 

On the 5th, a ferjeant belonging to the military artificers, in pre- 
paring money for the payment of the detachment, in the prefence of 
a well drefTed galangis, or Turkifh marine, quitted the room for a 
moment, and left the money lying on the table. On his return, the 
galangis had difappeared with an hundred and twenty piaflres.* This 
circumftance having been made known, and the perfon of the delin- 
quent defcribed to the Capitan Pacha, the galangis, from a conviction 
that the inquiry which the Pacha had inftituted would inevitably lead 
to his difcovery, came on the fecond evening after to the general's 
houfe, and confeffed the robbery. The general, with great humanity, 
yielded to his folicitation, to endeavour, by a timely interference, to 
fave his life, and applied to the Pacha in his favour. Several days 
elapfed before this affair was brought to the conclufion which the 
general wifhed. During that interval, from his anxiety to prevent 
the unfortunate culprit from being ftrangled, he had expreffed fome 
doubts relative to the identity of his perfon. In reply to this, the 
Pacha very handfomely, and without hefitation, declared his full con- 
viction that the galangis in queftion had taken the money, as he was 
certain that an Englishman would not tell an untruth. 

On the 7th, at eight in the morning, I accompanied the general 
and officers to Koum Kali, which we reached between ten and eleven 

* A piaftre is equal to about one {hilling and fixpence Englifh, 

' K 



66 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

o'clock. We there paid our refpects to the Bey, Adam Oglu, gover- 
nor of the four fortreffes, and of the diftrict of the Dardanelles. He 
gave us a very civil reception, and fupplied us with horfes to proceed 
to the village of Giawr-keuy, or Janizari Cape, built on the fite of 
the ancient Sigasum, and {landing on an eminence which commands 
the plain of Troy. The purport of our journey thither was to pro- 
cure a very curious bas-relief, and the celebrated Sigaean infcription, 
for Lord Elgin, who had feen them, and was defirous to tranfmit 
them to England. To accomplifh this, a firman was procured from 
the Capitan Pacha, who alfo furnimed a chaous to be the bearer of it. 
We were not long in coming at thefe valuable antiquities, which we 
found at the entrance of a fmall Greek chapel. The Greeks, by whom 
the village was exclufively inhabited, were extremely averfe to their 
being taken away. Their reluctance, we were told, arofe from a fu- 
perftitious opinion they entertained, that by touching thefe Hones 
agues were cured. We were, however, more fortunate on this occa- 
fion than the Count de Choifeul Gouffier was fome years before, in his 
attempt to remove the marble containing the Sigaean infcription. He 
failed, notwithstanding the firmans of Harlan Pacha, who had aided 
him with all his influence over the Greeks : but our chaous, with the 
Capitan Pacha's firman, effected his purpofe. The block of marble 
on which the Sigaean infcription, fo frequently mentioned by anti- 
quarians, is cut, conftituted originally the pillar of an hermetic column. 
The words of the infcription itfelf arc alternately written backwards 
and forwards, a peculiarity which denotes it to be of the higheft anti- 
quity. On the bas-relief we found five figures very finely fculptured, 
but the heads of which, with one exception only, were unfortunately 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 67 

broken off. As this curious remnant, of antiquity has, as well as the 
Sigasan infcription, been fince conveyed to England, any further de- 
tails relative to it would be fuperfluous. 

We next vifited the tumuli, or barrows, which tradition has de- 
fcribed as the tombs of Achilles and Patroclus. At fome diftance 
from them we faw another barrow, which is ftyled the tomb of Ajax. 

The plain of Troy, over which we rode, is of very considerable ex- 
tent, being about twelve miles in length, and from five to fix in 
breadth. It is fertile, and in a good ftate of cultivation. A great 
part of the land is laid out in pafturage, on which numerous herds of 
cattle browze. The rivers Scamander and Simoeis run meandering 
through the plain ; and near to their confluence {lands the village of 
Bourna Balhi, on the fite, as is fuppofed, of the ancient Ilium. At 
an inconfiderable diftance from this village are to be feen the veftiges 
of an ancient temple dedicated to Apollo. Several other fmall villages 
are interfperfed. The Scamander being at prefent but fcantily Sup- 
plied with water, a part of its bed affords herbage for cattle. 

From Giawr-keuy we had a fine and diftincl view of Mount Ida, 
and alfo of the tomb from whence Polites, the fon of Priam, recon- 
noitred the forces of the Greeks. We were under the neceffity of 
deferring till a more convenient opportunity our projected excurfion 
to Alexandria Troas, or, as it is now ftyled by the Turks, Efca Stam- 
boul. We fiept in a houfe which the Bey had prepared for us.* 

* For a more minute defcription of this highly celebrated fpot, I refer the reader to 
the Remarks and Obfervations on the Plain of Troy, published in 1800, by Captain 
Franklin, in the fervice of the Eaft India Company ; wherein the author exprelTes him- 
felf thoroughly fatisfied with the correclnefs of the poet Homer in his beautiful defcrip- 
tion of Troy. 



68 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

On the 8th we paid an early vifit to Adam Oglou, who accompanied 
us on our return to Chennecally, in compliance with an imperious 
meffage he had received from the Capitan Pacha to repair thither. 
On this occafion he was extremely dejected, and appeared to labour 
under ftrong apprehenfions that his vifit to the Capitan Pacha would 
he attended by very ferious confequences. Indeed he did not fcruple 
to confefs as much to General Koehler, whom he folicited to interfere 
in his behalf. In this the general was fuccefsful, but not before the 
Bey had been exceedingly alarmed at the appearances which manifefted 
themfelves againft him. He had previoully declared to feveral of our 
gentlemen, that he had conftantly at his command ten thoufand fight- 
ing men, and that in the fpace of three days he could alTemble an 
army of forty thoufand. With fo confiderable a force in his hands, 
fuch is the fyftem purfued in Turkey, and fuch the confequences to 
be apprehended from a menacing meHage received from a minifter or 
other perfon high in authority, that Adam Oglou found himfelf placed 
in a very precarious and hazardous fituation. 

In the afternoon I made an excurfion of feveral miles into the in- 
terior of the country. Chennecally is fituated on the Afiatic fide of 
the Dardanelles, in a flat territory, which extends for feveral miles, and 
is terminated by a lofty chain of mountains reaching from Mount Ida. 
On the call: and fouth-weft fides the town is furrounded by marfliy 
grounds, which, being contiguous to it, muft unqueftionably fubjecl: 
the inhabitants to interrnittents. On the ea'ftern fide there is a very 
fine grove of fycamore trees. About eighteen months before the date 
of this part of the narrative, the plague extended itfelf to Chenne- 
cally, and carried off daily from thirty to forty of the inhabitants. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 69 

It is faid that the Dardanelles are never infefted by that difeafe, unlefs 
when it rages with great and uncommon violence at Constantinople. 
A ftill more lingular fact has alfo been ftated, namely, that in the 
town of Mito, on the European fide, and oppofite to Abydos, the 
inhabitants are not fufceptible of the plague ; and that the infected 
perfons, who have occafionally been brought thither by ftealth, have 
all recovered. 

The water in Chennecally being brackim, and of a tafte difagree- 
able to the palate, the inhabitants are under the neceffity of obtain- 
ing their fupplies from the neighbouring fountains. The furrounding 
plain is in a tolerable Itate of culture, and abounds in vineyards, in 
addition to which there is fome produce of cotton, hemp, and different 
kinds of grain. Camels and buffaloes are employed for agricultural 
and other purpofes. The town is filthy in the extreme, the flreets 
very narrow, and the houfes, which indeed refemble almoft all thofe 
that are to be met with in the Turkifh towns and villages, wretchedly 
bad. 

Game is in great plenty at Chennecally, as are alfo turkeys, geefe, 
ducks, and fowls. The mutton is of a good quality ; and there is a 
conftant fupply of excellent vegetables, as well as of fruits of every 
kind, when in feafon. We had not as yet been able to afcertain 
whether there was any public market for fifh. The wine made at 
Chennecally is pleafant and cheap. 

At this place there is a manufactory of earthen ware, and another 
for the preparation of the {kins which are converted into the red, 
yellow, and black Turkey leather, held in fuch univerfal eftimation. 
Near this place the Capitan Pacha brings his fleet to anchor once a 



7 o TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

year, to collect, for the Turkifh government, the annual tribute from 
the adjacent diftricls. He was expected to fail for Conftantinople in 
the courfe of a few days. 

The Dardanelles are principally defended by four caftles, on which 
are mounted a confiderable number of guns, many of them of an un- 
commonly large caliber, having, in fome inftances, a diameter of not 
lefs than thirty inches. In one of thefe guns a Turk was feen by our 
party, feated, and in the act of eating his meal. One of the caftles 
is fituated at Chennecally, and another on the oppofite fide of the 
ftraits at Kelletbahar. The other two are at the entrance of the Dar- 
danelles, one at Settelbahar, on the European fide, and the other at 
Koum Kali, on the Afiatic fide. 

At the time when Lieutenant- colonel Hollo way and Major Hope 
were engaged in the furvcy of the caflles and coaft, a practice was 
made by the Turks from the great guns at Chennecally for the pur- 
pofc of convincing the Englim officers that their large marble and 
granite balls, difcharged a ricochet ,* would reach quite acrofs the Dar- 
danelles. They indeed fumilhed a melancholy proof of this ; a family 
of three individuals, fitting in a field on the oppofite fide, having been 
killed by one of the mots. 

On the Qth, in the morning, the officers and men belonging to the 
Britifli military miffion afTemblcd on the efplanade, to receive the 

* In fir! ng a ricochet) the piece is no more than half charged, infomuch that it car- 
ries the ball to a certain diftance only. In its fall, the latter fkips, rolls, and makes 
rebounds (ricochets), as is the cafe with pebbles thrown in a horizontal direction on the 
furface of the water, in skimming which they produce what by boys are called clucks 
and drakes. This practice is employed to fweep and clear a covered way, a rampart, 
&c. and its invention is afcribed to the celebrated Vauban. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 71 

Capitan Pacha, who came thither in ftate to infpecl the nature and 
fituation of the propofed additional works, which had been traced out 
for that purpofe. He was faluted by the men of war and caftles, his 
Kia Bey, with a numerous retinue, attending on the beach. 

The infpection having been gone through, and the neceffary ex- 
planations made to him, the Pacha paid many compliments to the 
general and officers, and expreffed his full and entire approbation of 
all that was propofed to be done. The works were accordingly com- 
menced without lofs of time. 

On the 1 1 th, much rain, accompanied with thunder and lightning, 
having fallen the preceding evening, and the ftorm having continued 
during the whole of the night, we experienced a very great and fud- 
den change of weather. The wind had fhifted to the north-eaft ; 
and as we were without fires, we found the cold, which had come 
upon us thus unexpectedly, very unpleafant. In riding out this day, 
I examined the fpot on which the ancient Abydos is faid to have been 
fituated, and found upon it fcattered fragments of old bricks, ftones, 
&c. which furnifh an evident proof that it was the lite of fome an- 
cient town. Near to this fpot a late Capitan Pacha erected a kiofque 
ornamented by a fine fountain, and alfo a mofque. The kiofque being 
fituated at the head of a bay, which, during the winter months, ferves 
for the anchorage of the Turkifh Ihips of war, is a favourite refidence 
of the prefent Capitan Pacha. 

On the morning of the 12th I rode to a Turkifh village, diftant 
from Chennecally about three miles. It was of the fame defcription 
with the villages I have already noticed. The late heavy falls of rain 
had fet the country people to work : while fome of them w r ere bufied 



72 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

in pruning their vines, others were employed in the fields in ploughing 
and in fowing their barley. 

On the 15th the Capitan Pacha, who had moved his fleet to the 
bay of Nagara, near Abydos, promoted one of his captains to the rank 
of rear-admiral. We were given to underftand that this promotion 
took place in confequence of a Turkifh admiral having been decapi- 
tated for neglect of duty, in fuffering Bonaparte to make his efcape 
by fea from Egypt. The newly created admiral was faluted on the 
occafion by the fhips of the Turkifli fquadron. 

On the 1 8th I received a vifit from Dr. Rhazi, phyfician to the 
Capitan Pacha, with whom I had made an acquaintance the preced- 
ing evening at the houfe of the Ruffian conful. On the following 
day, after having accompanied him to the general's houfe, we vifited 
together two of the Turkifli captains who were indifpofed. A con- 
firmation of the news of Bonaparte's efcape from Egypt reached Chen- 
necally this day. 

On the 2-1 th I walked to the fite of the ancient Abydos, which I 
had more leifure to infpect than on my firft vifit. In addition to the 
abundance of fragments of bricks, and heaps of {tones and rubbifh, 
which were fcattered over the entire furface of the ground, I noticed 
a fmall portion of a wall of a tower of confiderable thicknefs, the only 
veftige of a ruin {till {landing. 

For feveral preceding days the weather had been cold, rainy, and 
tempeftuous, the thermometer ranging from 42 to 45 degrees. It 
cleared up on the 25th, when I had a pleafant morning's ride to the 
fpot where the ancient Dardania ftood. On the ground I found frag- 
ments of bricks profufely fcattered. Thefc, together with the ftones 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 73 

and rubbifh with which they were blended, were irrefragable proofs of 
the remote exiftence of buildings on the fpot, near to which I obferved 
the veftiges of an ancient fort. 

On the 2Gth I made an excurfion to the mountains, whence I had 
the fatisfaclion of furveying one of the moft beautiful profpe&s ima- 
gination can paint. In my rear was Mount Ida ; and in front the 
Dardanelles, together with Imbros, Samothrace, and the Saronic gulf, 
Tenedos, Lemnos, and the yEgean Sea, were to the left ; and to the 
right Gallipoli, Marmora, and other diftant objects. The fun mining 
very bright, the tops of Mount Ida, and of the Samothracian hills, 
glittered with accumulated maiTes of fnow. 

The Capitan Pacha having this day given an order that feveral un- 
ferviceable guns mould be broken in pieces, the Topgis Bafhi, or 
commandant of Turkifh artillery, took the following method to carry 
it into execution. A large pile of wood having been laid on the guns, 
was fet fire to in the evening, and kept burning until early the next 
morning, when an account was brought that a Turkilh gunner had 
been killed, and the Capitan Pacha's chief gunner wounded, by the 
burfting of one of the guns in the fire. In accounting for this acci- 
dent, various opinions were entertained. It was afcribed by fome to 
the circumftance of a quantity of cold water having been thrown on 
the heated metal by the Turks employed in the operation ; but it 
appeared to us {till more probable that, having neglected to withdraw 
the charge, an explofion took place on the gun being heated. Several 
of the fragments were thrown to a confiderable diftance. The -poor 
Topgis Bafhi was fo much alarmed by the difaftrous event which 
had occurred, that he immediately betook himfelf to flight, as did 

L 



74 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

alfo his brother, from an apprehenfton of the confequences of the 
Capitan Pacha's difplcafure. 

On the 30th the Phaeton frigate arrived from Conftantinople with 
letters which occafioned the removal of the million to that place, as 
a ftep preparatory to its being employed on fome important fervice. 
Orders were in confequence iffued by the general that the officers and 
detachment mould hold themfelves in readinefs to embark the follow- 
ing morning on board the tranfport. The wind being northerly, 
however, there was a profpecl: of our being detained at Chennecally 
for fome days. 

On the lft of December I embarked on board the tranfport with 
my baggage ; and on the following day the officers and detachment 
embarked. The general was to proceed to Conftantinople in a Turkifh 
boat. In the morning I went over to Mito, on the European fide, 
and purchafed a cafk of wine at fix paras the oke, fomewhat lefs than 
three pence Englifh per bottle. In the afternoon we failed for Con- 
ftantinople, with a fair and fteady breeze, and paffed Gallipoli late in 
the evening. On the 3d we entered the Sea of Marmora with a frefh 
gale; and on the 4th at noon, the tranfport anchored in Conftan 
tinople harbour. On our landing we found that the general was not 
yet arrived, which happened two or three days afterwards. The of- 
ficers paid a vifit to Lord Elgin, by whom we were invited to dine on 
the following day. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 
CHAPTER VI. 



75 



KECEPTION AT CONSTANTINOPLE — CASTLE OF THE SEVEN TOWERS— PA- 
LACE OP BELISARIUS APPREHENSION OF THE PLAGUE EXECUTION OF 

SEVERAL TURKS FOR ROBBERIES THE HANS, OR RESIDENCE OF THE 

TURKISH MERCHANTS SUDDEN CHANGES OF WEATHER AT CONSTANTI- 
NOPLE FALL OF SNOW PANORAMA OF CONSTANTINOPLE FATAL EF- 
FECTS FROM BURNING CHARCOAL — SEVEN LADIES OF THE GRAND VIZIER 

SUFFOCATED USE OF THE BATH IN TURKEY TRAVELLING IN TURKEY 

SINGULAR RELIGIOUS CEREMONY DIFFERENT SECTS OF DERVISES 

INTERCEPTED DISPATCHES FROM THE FRENCH ARMY THE RAMAZAN 

SPLENDID ILLUMINATIONS GREEK MARRIAGE CEREMONIES ON BOARD 

A RUSSIAN SHIP OF WAR — FEAST OF BIRAM THE CHIEF OF THE WHITE 

EUNUCHS SHOCK OF AN EARTHQUAKE VIOLENT CHANGES IN THE 

TEMPERATURE SINGULAR PUNISHMENT INFLICTED ON A TURK FOR AS- 
SAULTING AN ENGLISHMAN FORMIDABLE HORDES OF BANDITTI IN THE 

VICINITY OF THE METROPOLIS SINGULAR MODE OF COMMUNICATING 

THE PLAGUE TO A FRENCH OFFICER LAUNCH OF A TURKISH SEVENTY- 
FOUR LEANDEIl's TOWER TOWN OF SCUTARI CELEBRATION OF EASTER 

AMONG THE GREEKS DARING ROBBERY IN THE OPEN STREET SEVERE 

EXECUTION OF JANISSARIES AND SEAMEN CAPITAN PACHA SAILS FROM 

CONSTANTINOPLE — BEAUTIFUL APPEARANCE OF THE ASIATIC SHORE 

FEAST OF THE BIRAM COURBAN PRAYERS ON BOARD THE TURKISH AD- 

MIRAL's SHIP DESCRIPTION OP THE MOSQUES AT CONSTANTINOPLE 

EXECUTION OF THE PACHA OF NICOMEDIA FETE GIVEN BY LORD ELGIN 

ON HIS MAJESTY'S BIRTH-DAY PREPARATIONS FOR THE DEPARTURE OF 

THE MISSION TO JOIN THE GRAND VIZIER'S ARMY ANECDOTE OF THE 

GRAND VIZIER. 

the 7th of December I went over to Scutari, where I was 
prefent at the burial of two perfons who were faid to have fallen 
viclims to the plague. To denote the caufe of their death, the bodies 
were covered by a red cloth. 

L 2 



7 6 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

On the 12th a grand diplomatic dinner, at which fixty-two perfons 
were prefent, was given by Lord Elgin. All the officers belonging to 
the miffion partook of this fplendid fete. In the morning I inoculated 
Mafter Sydney Smith, who had been under preparation for fome days. 

On the morning of the 14th 1 made a tour through the city of 
Conftantinople, in company with Mr. Thornton, the Englifh mer- 
chant, who, upon a variety of occafions, had manifefted much friendly 
attention to his countrymen. The weather was remarkably fine, but 
at the fame time cold, it having frozen during the night. We took 
boat at Galata, and landed within a fmall diftance of the ancient 
caftle denominated by Europeans the Seven Towers, and by the Turks 
Yeddikuli. Four only of the towers, erecled in the ancient wall, are 
left {landing, the others having been thrown down by the great earth- 
quake of 17O8.* From this place we profecuted our walk without 
the walls of the city, and vifited a Greek church, and alfo a Turkifh 
cemetery, whence we had a fine view of the cattle of the feven towers, 
and of the fea. In the courfe of our perambulation we faw the ruins 
of the palace of Belifarius, below which we at length took boat, and 
arrived at Galata in the afternoon. 

On the 15th I dined with the Danifh charge d'affaires, Baron 
Hubfch, and in the evening paid a vifit to the internuncio, who had 
a public night. Much rain having fallen for feveral days fucceffively, 
and the temperature of the air being precifely fuch as to favour the 

* Within thefe towers ftate and other prjfoners are confined. The refident French 
minifter, charge d'affaires, at Conftantinople, with feveral other perfons of the fame 
nation, were fent hither when the war broke out between France and Turkey, and 
thcfe people were liberated from their confinement when the late peace was figned. 

f I am inclined to believe that the circumference of the city of Conftantinople does 
not exceed fourteen or fixteen miles, independently of the fuburbs, which appear nearly 
as large as the city itfelf. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 77 

production of the plague, I felt much uneafinefs left that terrible 
fcourge mould become prevalent in Conftantinople before our depar- 
ture. My apprehenfions were encreafed on the 17 th, by an incident 
which happened to myfelf. I had fent my boots to be repaired to a 
Ihoemaker, at whofe houfe I afterwards found the plague had broken 
out. In confequence of this event my boots were detained ; and I 
learned on inquiry that the infected perfon had been conveyed to the 
peft-houfe. 

Several Turks who had recently committed robberies were appre- 
hended on the 1 8th, and executed in a fummary way. They were 
hung to door-pofts, on which the bodies were to remain fufpended 
during three days as a public example. 

On the 1 gth I rode through Conftantinople to the Adrianople gate. 
I dined afterwards at the German palace, and went thence to the 
Englifh palace, where Lord Elgin had a public night. 

On the 2lft, in an excurfion through Conftantinople, I infpecled 
the hans, or, as their name implies, public buildings, fet afide for the 
Turkifli merchants, who have fmall apartments for their refidence, 
and for the lodging and fale of their goods. At the bottom is a large 
open fquare, and above a colonnade or gallery, which invefts the whole 
of the building. This gallery conducts to the apartments of the mer- 
chants, which are neat and commodious. In Conftantinople the hans 
differ effentially from thofe which are met with in travelling through 
the different parts of Turkey, the latter being in every refpect inferior. 
Thofe of the capital are in general fpacious ftructures, which the mu- 
nificence of the fultans and Turkilh grandees have fupplied, for the 
advantage of commerce, and for public benefit. Being conftructed of 
ftone, they are proof againft fire ; and in feveral of them there are 



7 8 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

three ftages of apartments, in which the merchants who refort to the 
capital from every part of the Turkifti empire, are, as well as the 
commodities they have brought thither by the caravans, conveniently 
accommodated. 

On the 25th, being Chriftmas day, all the officers belonging to the 
miffion dined with the general. The following day was warm, and 
remarkably fine, fimilar to the weather in England in the months of 
May and June ; but on the 2/th, the chilling rains again fet in. 
Thefe fudden tranfitions are very frequent in Turkey, and certainly 
have a ftrong tendency to the production of difeafe. The rains con- 
tinued to fall at intervals for feveral fucceeding days, and the air be- 
came cold and raw, the thermometer having fallen from 54 to 40 
degrees, at which it ftood on the 3 1 ft. It was moft probably owing 
to this very unfettled ftate of the atmofphere that, on the day of the 
new year, I was feized with rigors, accompanied by fymptoms of fever, 
which confined me for fome time to my bed. In the interim, as the 
cold became more intenfe, the weather became more fettled : during 
three days there was a conftant fall of fnow, and the thermometer 
flood at lO. 

On the 4th of January, 1800, the Young James, an Englim mer- 
chantman, arrived in the harbour of Conftantinople : fhe had on board 
Mr. Barker, junior, the draughtfman, the object of whofe voyage was 
to make drawings of the moft interefting and ftriking views of Con- 
ftantinople for his panorama. I muft add, in juftice to Mr. Barker, 
that he has been extremely fuccefsful in his two views of that place, 
than which nothing can be more correct. 

Nothing material occurred until the 8th, when, finding myfelf 
tolerably recovered from my late indifpofition, I dined with Lord 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 79 

Elgin, and returned to Galata in the evening, in the midft of a heavy- 
fall of rain. Owing to the unufual feverity of the weather, and the 
want of fire-places, the practice of burning charcoal in the apartments 
to heat them had become very frequent both among the inhabitants 
and ftrangers, and was indeed in a manner indifpenfable. For this 
purpofe the charcoal was put into earthen pans, called monguls, from 
whence it exhaled its mephitic vapours, and muft have been produc- 
tive of much mifchief in clofe and confined apartments, if we could 
judge from the effects it produced on us, who took every precaution 
to renew the air. The moft fenfible of thefe effects were headach, 
vertigo, naufea, and a violent throbbing pain in the temples. We 
found that fatal confequences had already refulted from this practice 
in the courfe of the prefent feafon, feveral perfons, in whofe rooms 
charcoal had been burned during the night, having been found dead 
the next morning. Among thefe we were told of feven ladies be- 
longing to the Grand Vizier, who had been found dead in their apart- 
ments a few mornings before, and whofe death was to be afcribed to 
no other caufe. Added to its ufual noxious qualities, the charcoal 
made in Turkey is extremely bad, and by no means fufficiently charred. 

The natural fmall-pox had lately been very prevalent in Conftan- 
tinople, and was extremely fatal in its effects. The great mortality 
it occafioned was in fome meafure to be afcribed to the mode of 
treatment, and the methods employed. The heat of the apartments 
in which the fick were confined, and in which charcoal and other 
inflammatory fubftances were burned, was equal to that of a hot- 
houfe; and being extremely oppreffive to perfons in health, could 
not fail to have a finifter tendency in cafes of eruptive fever, which 



So TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

required indeed a treatment altogether different from that which was 
purfued.* 

It was reported, on the 10th, that feveral perfons had died of the 
plague in the quarter in which we refided. The weather was ftill 
cold, rainy, and unpleafant. 

On the 13th, in the evening, a party was made to the bath. From 
the following account of the proceffes and operations to which we 
were fubjecled, it will be feen that the employment of the baths in 
Turkey differs very effentially from our ideas of bathing. It is a luxury 
which contributes at once to the health and enjoyment of the natives 
of the caff, who may, perhaps, the women efpecially, be accufed in 
fome inftances of employing it to excefs, fo as to induce a general 
debility of the fyftem. 

We undrelTed in an outer apartment, or veftibule, of a fquare form, 
and very fpacious and lofty, in the centre of which was a fountain, 
round which wooden platforms were raifed, and on thefe mattreffes 
and pillows laid for the convenience of the perfons coming out of the 
bath. In this outer apartment the thermometer flood at 50 ; and 
my pulfe beat fixty ftrokes in a minute. I had at the time a flight 
headach. Inftantly on my entering the inner apartment, my body 
was covered by a fuffufion of moifture. In the centre was a large 

* The Earl of Elgin having happily introduced into practice the inoculation of cow- 
pox at Conftantinople, the mortality from variolous difeafe will in future, I truft, be 
connderably leflened. 

His Lordship began with the inoculation of his own child : the difeafe, on its produc- 
tion, was fo extremely mild, that feveral Chriftian families fpeedily followed his Lord- 
Ihip's laudable example. This fuccefs induced the Turks to leffen their prejudices ; and 
feveral inftances occurred, before I quitted Turkey, in which they had fubmitted to the 
vaccine inoculation upon their children with the ufual happy confequences. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 81 

marble flab, raifed about a foot from the ground, on which a coloured 
napkin was fpread, and another rolled up in the form of a pillow. 
My companions and myfelf being now equipped, each of us with a 
napkin round his middle, were laid down, and our joints kneaded 
and prefTed by the attendants, one of whom directed his attention 
to each of the party. During this operation we perfpired very co- 
pioufly, at the fame time that the heat was by no means difagree- 
able. We remained in this apartment twenty minutes, the ther- 
mometer ftanding at ] 1 /, and my pulfe having rifen to 1 20. My 
headach was entirely fubdued. We had now a fecond procefs to 
undergo, and were for that purpofe conducted into another apart- 
ment, likewife heated by concealed {loves, the ftone pavement of 
which was fo hot as to be very unpleafant to the feet, which were, 
however, in fome meafure defended by a kind of wooden pattens 
with which w r e were provided. We were there rubbed over with 
a glove, or ftrigil, made of cloth manufactured from camels' hair, 
the friction from which was far from difagreeable. In the courfe of 
this operation, large portions of the cuticle fell off. We were now 
carefully warned with warm water, and the ablutions and frictions 
continued alternately for the fpace of feveral minutes. The third 
and laft procefs confifted in our being well lathered with foap from 
head to foot by the means of a linen mop. The fuds having been 
warned off", we were nicely enfolded with clean linen, and conducted 
to the outer apartment, where we had undreffed ourfelves. Pre- 
vioufly to our quitting the heated room, I examined the thermo- 
meter, which ftood at 104. The heat of the water employed in 
the ablutions was 114 degrees, and my pulfe role to 128, being at 

M 



82 TR AVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

the fame time full and firm. We now lay down on the raifed plat- 
forms I have before defcribed, and on which clean linen was fpread 
for us. We were next prefcntcd with coffee and pipes of tobacco ; 
and, finally, our bodies were kneaded and preffed, with a view to the 
abforption of the perfpirable matter, which continued to flow from us 
very copioufly for a confiderable time after we hac 1 quitted the bath. 
It was no longer fenfible at the expiration of two hours, when we 
began to drefs : I experienced, however, at that time fo great a de- 
gree of thirft, that I was obliged to have recourfe to a draught of 
water. My pulfe, which was {till firm and full, fubfided to 80; and 
my headach returned, with a throbbing pain of the temples. In 
returning home, we took the precaution to be well covered. We 
paid two piaftres and a half each at the bath. 

In Conflantinople the number of public baths is very confiderable. 
Several of them, for the accommodation of the indigent, have been 
fucceffively founded by the munificence of the Sultans. The private 
baths are equally numerous, there being fcarcely a houfe of any re- 
fpectability unprovided with one of them, in which every conve- 
nience is to be found. This will not appear extraordinary when it 
is confidered that the practice of bathing, independently of its being 
a luxury fo well adapted to the climate of Turkey, is, among the 
Mahometan inflitutions, the one to which, from motives of cleanli- 
nefs, the mod ftridt obfervance is paid. 

On the 15th I went on board the Young James, the Englifh mer- 
chantman lately arrived, to vifit a feaman who was dangeroufly ill. 
On the 17th I went from Galata to Conflantinople, where I faw the 
Grand Seignor and retinue go in proccflion to the mofque. Prepa- 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 83 

rations were making by the general and feveral of the officers to pro- 
ceed to Syria by land ; and in the interim the tranfport was ordered 
to be got ready for the conveyance of the remainder of the officers 
and the detachment, by fea. It was evident that the overland party 
would have to encounter a very haraffing journey, and many diffi- 
culties. Inftead of the inns which elfewhere furnifh folace and re- 
frefhment to the wearied traveller, it is true that hans or kanns are 
to be found in every town, and in the greater part of the villages, 
for the accommodation of both man and horfe. As, however, no 
dependance can be placed on finding refrefhments in them, the tra- 
veller is under the neceffity of providing himfelf with whatever may 
be requifite to his fupport. Thefe kanns are fpacious buildings, 
having on each fide a raifed floor, on which the travellers fpread 
their mats, or carpets, to repofe themfelves, while the centre is oc- 
cupied by the^ horfes. They are conftantly open to receive thofe 
who are in need of an afylum for reft. In travelling, the Turks are 
in general furnifhed according to their rank and confequence, and to 
the fervice they have to perform. They are ufually accompanied by 
a Mikmendar, a Chiaous, a Cavafhe, or a Tartar, whofe duty it is 
to procure provifions, and provide every thing requifite to the ac- 
complishment of the journey. Such, however, is the rapacity of 
thefe attendants, that, often not content with having every necefTary 
fupplied by the needy and fuffering inhabitants, they demand what 
in Turkiffi is called kere el dars, which implies fomething for the ufe 
of the teeth. 

The 18th being her Majefty's birth- day, I was prefent at a ball 

M 2 



84 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

and fupper given on the occafion by Lord Elgin. The company 
was very numerous, and the tables fplendid and well ferved. 

On the morning of the 19th, General Koehler, Major Fletcher, 
Captain Leake, Mr. Pink the draughtfman, and Mr. Carlifle, from 
the Britifli ambalfador's palace, all of them equipped as Tartars, left 
Conftantinople to proceed to Syria by land. 

On the 20th I was prefent at a religious ceremony of the dervifes, 
or Turkifh priefts. The houfe in which they affembled was of an 
octagon form, with two galleries, the upper of which, fupported by 
pillars, was occupied by muficians, who played very foft and folemn 
mufic. In the lower gallery were flationed the Turks and others 
who attended to witnefs this very fingular fervice. Round the apart- 
ment were hung in frames feveral Arabic fentences, one of which, 
in particular, was fufpended exactly over the head of the fuperior 
of the dervifes. He was feated ; and each of the dervifes, on enter- 
ing, bowed to him, and then took his place in the lower gallery. 
Between twenty and thirty of thefe monks being affembled, the fu- 
perior repeated a prayer, during the continuance of which they 
kneeled, and bowed their heads to the floor, which they occalionally 
appeared to kifs. After they had chaunted for fome time, with the 
accompaniment of the mufic in the gallery, the fuperior rofe, and 
with a flow and folemn pace walked three times round the apart- 
ment, bowing when he patted the Arabic infcription, beneath which 
he had been feated. The other dervifes now rofe, and having re- 
peated this ceremony after him, the fuperior again feated himfelf. 

The ftrangeft part of the fervice was yet to come. The fanatical 



/ / 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 85 

dervifes next threw off their mantles, and fuddenly letting drop a 
kind of cloth, or woollen petticoat, began fucceffively to fpin round, 
each of them taking a ftation, on which he continued to whirl, as if 
on an axis, during the fpace of twenty minutes, without coming in 
contact with thofe who were neareft to him. In this exercife, in 
the courfe of which they turned round with great celerity, to aug- 
ment the giddinefs which was to produce a holy intoxication, they 
had at firft their arms croffed, with their hands placed on their 
fhoulders. As the velocity of their motion increafed, they held 
them up ; and finally extended them in a horizontal pofition, but 
ftill without encountering thofe who were within their reach. This 
ceremony, which was thrice performed, was conftantly accompanied 
by the foft mufic from the gallery ; and throughout the whole of 
it great order and folemnity prevailed. The coftume worn by thefe 
dervifes is of a light quaker colour ; and a competent idea of it will 
be formed from Plate IV. in which one of their fuperiors is faithfully 
reprefented. 

There is another feet of dervifes very different in their habits from 
thofe whofe religious ceremonies I have juft defcribed, and who are 
ityled Mewliachs. Thefe are the Tacta Tepens, or board-beaters, 
the regulations of whofe order are ftill more difmal and auftere. I 
had not an opportunity to be prefent at their devout exercifes, which, 
as I was told, require an exertion of the lungs equal to that of the 
limbs in the circular motions of the preceding feel:. As, in perform- 
ing thefe motions, the Mewliachs acquire a greater energy in pro- 
portion as the giddy intoxication increafes, and whirl round with 
more precipitancy, fo the board-beaters, following each other with 



86 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

great folemnity round their chapel, repeat aloud the word Allah ! 
to the beat of a drum, until its ftrokes are at length quickened to 
fuch a degree, as to produce, in many inftances, by the ftreporous 
exertions with which they are followed, a fpitting of blood. The 
dervifes in general are regarded as prophets by the deluded multitude. 

The intercepted difpatches from the French army of Egypt, which 
have been the fubjeel of fo many converfations, and have been fince 
given in an Englifh drefs, were, on the 22d, brought to Constan- 
tinople, having been forwarded to Lord Elgin by Lord Vifcount 
Nelfon. 

On the 25th, Captain Lacy left Conftantinople with important 
difpatches for the Grand Vizier. Corporal Wilkinfon, belonging 
to the miffion, lay at this time dangeroufly ill of a putrid fever. 

On the 28th, the Ramazan, a Turkifli faft fimilar to our lent, 
commenced. It was to continue during a month, in the courfe of 
which a mofl rigid abstinence was to be obferved from fun-rife to 
fun-fet. In the evening I went to Tophana, to witnefs the illumi- 
nations, feftivities, and popular amufements, which were to fucceed 
to the penance of the day. The fun was no fooner fet than all the 
mofques of Constantinople, and of the Suburbs, were lighted up, both 
internally and externally, with coloured lamps. The minarets, or 
towers, were alfo decorated in the fame manner ; and the effecl: of 
thefe, and of the other illuminations, was very lively and piclurefque. 
Taken altogether, it was one of the molt fplendid fights that could 
be witneSfed. I had taken my ftation very conveniently to enjoy 
all the brilliancy of the fpedacle. In the mean time nothing was 
neglected which could tend to amufe and gratify the people : the 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 87 

fhops of the paftry-cooks and confectioners, together with the cofFee- 
houfes, and other places of public entertainment, were nicely deco- 
rated and lighted up ; while exhibitions of low humour and buffoon- 
ery prefented themfelves at almoft every ftep to attract the notice 
of the populace. The ftreets were every where crouded with groups, 
w 7 hofe feftivities were to be prolonged until the morning's dawn, 
when the faffing w r as to recommence. I did not of courfe wait until 
the termination of the fcene, but returned home after a moft agree- 
able evening's entertainment.' 

On the 31 ft I made an excurfion to the towers fituated on the 
banks of the Bofphorus. On the 4th of February I had an interview 
with his Excellency Hadgi Ibrahim Effendi, from whom I had re- 
ceived an invitation to that effect. On the 7th I went to the tower 
of Galata, where Mr. Barker was bufied in fketching one of the 
views of Conftantinople for the panorama. I was much pleafed at 
the correctnefs and precifion which he difplayed in its execution. 

On the evening of the gth, a Greek marriage was folemnized at 
the palace of the Ruffian ambaffador. It had attracted a very nu- 
merous and brilliant company, which I found affembled. The 
ceremony was performed by the Greek patriarch. The bride and 
bridegroom were very elegantly dreffed, as indeed was the cafe with 
the company in general, a great profufion of diamonds being dif- 
played by the females. The bride was decorated by long flowing 
ftreamers of gold tinfel, which, extending from the top of the head, 
trained on the ground. She diftributed to her young female friends 
portions of thefe ftreamers, a cuftom which feems to correfpond 
with ours, of giving white ribbons as wedding favours. The cere- 



88 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

mony being concluded, the evening was fpent in dancing waltzes 
and Greek and Englifh country dances, after which a fplendid fupper 
was given. 

On the following evening a ball, at which I was prefent, was 
given by the bride's father, M. Pifani, the principal interpreter to 
the Britifli embafly ; and on the 12th I was invited to a ball and 
fupper given at the German palace, to celebrate the birth-day of 
the Emperor of Germany. 

The weather had been for fome time cold and raw, with occa- 
sional falls of fnow ; but on the 14th it became more temperate, in 
confequence of the heavy mowers which had fallen during the pre- 
ceding night. On the 15th, intelligence reached Conllantinople 
that a convention had been agreed to, by which the French troops 
were to evacuate Egypt. By the fame courier we learned that 
General Koehler had reached Koniah, in Afia Minor, after having 
experienced many difficulties on his route thither. 

The l6th being the birth-day of Mrs. Spencer Smith, the lady of 
the Britifli fecretary of legation, there was a mafked ball in the even- 
ing at the German palace. Several of the characters were fupported 
with much humour. On the following evening a ball and fupper 
were given by Lord Elgin in compliment to the newly married 
Greek couple. It was truly the feafon of feftivities at Conftanti- 
nople, both among the Chriftians and Mahometans. With reipect. 
to the latter, indeed, not a night parTes during the continuance of 
the Ramazan, without its being marked by fome particular feftival. 

On the 1 8th I went on board a Ruffian fhip of war lying in the 
harbour, in the vicinity of Tophana, having received an invitation 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 89 

to a public breakfaft given by the captain, on the occafion of the 
promotion of one of his officers. The reception I met with was ex- 
tremely polite and attentive; and in the courfe of the entertainment 
fome fingular ceremonies occurred, which it will not be amifs to 
detail. Previoufly to the breakfaft, tongues and liqueurs were pre- 
fented to us — a cuftom which we were given to underftand is con- 
ftantly obferved by the Ruffians. During the breakfaft, which was 
of the moft fumptuous kind, feveral toafts, given by the captain, 
were drank, and cheered three times. The captain now entertained 
us with a Ruffian dance, while a part of the crew, cleanly dreffed 
tor the occafion, fung to an accompaniment of Ruffian mufic. After 
a fhort interval, the captain fell on the deck, apparently from acci- 
dent, w T hen the fingers took him in their arms, and tolled him in 
the air, repeating certain phrafes. Each of the guefts afterwards 
underwent the fame ceremony. The next fingular occurrence 
was, that, on the health of the Ruffian minifter at Conftantinople 
being given by the captain, he demanded aloud what others would 
do for him. Inftantly a Ruffian officer, and nearly twenty of the 
crew, jumped from the cabin window into the fea, with their clothes 
on. The ftern ladders were the only refource they had to get on 
board again ; and on their entering the cabin with their wet clothes, 
they danced round the captain, occafionally proftrating themfelves 
at his feet. On our going on more, the greater part of the barge's 
crew threw themfelves into the water, and fwam by her fide until 
we reached the beach. A few piaftres diftributed among them 
were, as I apprehend, confidered by them a fufncient recompenfe 
for the ducking to which they had fubjecled themfelves. 

N 



9 o TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

This being the feafon of the carnival, there were frequent mafked 
balls at the palaces of the different minifters. I was prefent on the 
evening of the lQth, at one given by the Pruffian envoy, which was 
very fully attended. On this and other fimilar occafions many of 
the characters were well fupported ; and much mirth and feftivity 
prevailed among the guefts. The relaxations of the carnival were 
rendered the more finking by the tamenefs and infipidity which, at 
other times, characterized the entertainments and amufements of 
the place in which we refided. 

On the 20th a fire broke out at Conflantinople ; but it was very 
fpeedily fubdued. About this time reports of the prevalence of the 
plague were again abroad. They were confirmed by the repeated 
opportunities I had of feeing the corpfes of perfons whofe death was 
afcribed to that caufe, carried for interment, with the cuflomary 
fign or token of a red cloth thrown over the bier, and enveloping 
the dead body. At the burial of one of thefe pefliferous fubjecls, a 
few days before, I was not a little furprifed at feeing one of the men 
employed in removing the corpfe from the bier to the ground, pre- 
vioufly to its being dcpofited in the grave, take, with all the indif- 
ference imaginable, between his teeth, one of the ends of the red 
cloth in which it was enclofed. He did this to raife up the corpfe 
the more readily, it being none of the lighteft. It was, according to 
the Turkifh cuftom, interred without a coffin, and naked, as is al- 
moft invariably the ufage. Neither the corpfe in queftion, nor thofe 
I had feen buried on former occafions, difcovered any particular marks 
differing from thofe w hich manifcfl themfelves in cafes of the fatal 
termination of malignant fever. There was of courfe no appearance 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 91 

of peftilential tumours. Three houfes at Pera, in which the plague 
had broken out a few weeks before, {till remained mut up. 

Precifely at two in the afternoon of the 23d, the biram was an- 
nounced by the firing of guns. This feftival, which fucceeded the fall 
of the Ramazan, was to laft for three days, during which the Turks 
were to feaft, and to indulge themfelves in every poffible licence, 
as a compenfation for the fevere penance to which they had been 
obliged to fubmit during the preceding month. On the following 
morning, at four o'clock, I went with a party to Conftantinople to 
fee the proceffion of the biram. We found the ftreets through which 
it was to pafs already lighted up, and all the neceffary preparations 
made. Shortly after day-break the ceremony commenced ; and 
between fix and feven o'clock the Grand Seignor, richly dreffed, and 
attended by a numerous and fplendid retinue, paffed by the fpot 
where we had taken our {land. Many new and elegant fatin dreffes 
were difplayed on this occafion ; but as the ceremonial differed but 
little from the proceffion of the biram courbam I have already de- 
fcribed,. I fhall difmifs the fubjecl by obfe-rving, that the Capitan 
Pacha attended with his cliiaoufes ;* and that the proceffion went, 
as in the former cafe, to the mofque of Sultan Achmet. 

* The cliiaoufes are a defcription of fubordinate officers, or melTengers, acting under 
the Chiaous Bafhi, and whofe employment refembles in fome inftances that of our 
yeomen of the guards, with this ftriking exception, however, that they hold them- 
felves in conftant readinefs to be difpatched to every part of the empire on public bufi- 
nefs, and are entrufted with the firmans, difpatches, &c. They likewife precede the 
Sultan, and great officers of ftate, either on foot or on horfeback, with filver fticks, 
from the top of which fmall balls of the fame metal are appended, as a badge of their 
office. 

N 2 



92 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

In all fimllar proceffions the Grand Seignor is preceded by tbe 
Capi Aga, or Capi Agaffi, a Xurkifh officer of high rank and dignity, 
and the chief of the white eunuchs. He is governor or grand mailer 
of the gates of the Seraglio, attends conftantly on the Sultan's per- 
fon, and introduces ambaffadors to their audiences. It is through 
the medium only of this officer that any perfon is permitted to enter 
the apartments of the Grand Seignor ; and he conftantly accompa- 
nies the latter when he vifits the apartments of the Sultanas, taking 
his ftation withoutfide the door. In the portrait of a Capi Aga, 
Plate V. it will be feen that he is without a beard and without 
muftaches, the reafon of which will be readily underftood, when it 
is remembered that he is the chief of the eunuchs. The capigis, 
acling under him as porters, or door-keepers, are employed in the 
execution of a Pacha, or other perfon of rank, who is to be poifoned, 
ftrangled, beheaded, or otherwife taken off, according to the nature 
of his offence, or the degree of confequence he may have poffeffed. 

During the latter part of the month of February, and the com- 
mencement of March, the changes of weather were Hidden and ex- 
traordinary. At intervals the fnow fell in abundance, with a cold 
and raw air ; while at other times there was a confiderable degree 
of heat in the atmofphere, accompanied by heavy mowers of rain. 
Thefe unufual and frequent alterations of the weather were produc- 
tive of catarrhs, coughs, and fore throats, which became very general 
in the Turkifh capital and fuburbs. The 7th of March being a very 
fine and warm day, I took a morning's walk in the environs of 
Bifhictafh, and faw, for the firft time during the feafon, feveral very 
young lambs. Their flcfh is not allowed to be eaten in Turkey until 



i 4' 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 93 

the month of April. Among the Mahometans there is an entire 
prohibition of pork, which is, notwithstanding, allowed to be brought 
to market, at the commencement of the fpring feafon, for the ufe of 
the foreign minifters, and other chriftian refidents. This indulgence 
afforded us an opportunity of purchafing a joint of pork, which, very 
unfortunately, we fent to a Turkifli baker to be cooked. The dif- 
covery which enfued had nearly fubjecled us to fome very unplea- 
fant circumftances ; and the poor baker was made to pay a fine of 
tw r enty piaftres. 

On the loth, a flight fhock of an earthquake was felt at Galata. 

On the 12th the weather again became unpleafantly cold, with 
falls of mow : during the night the thermometer was below the 
freezing point. This intemperature of the air, which could fcarcely 
have been expected in fuch a climate, now that the fpring was faft 
advancing, continued, with almofl: unabated feverity, till towards 
the clofe of the month ; not, however, without fome of thofe tran- 
fitions which I have had fuch repeated occafions to notice, and which 
were neceffarily productive of many ailments. It appeared that in 
Afia the weather was much milder, and indeed altogether different 
from that which we experienced at Constantinople ; for on the 23d, 
I purchafed feveral bunches of violets and narcifTus flowers, brought 
from that quarter. They were at that time fent in great abundance 
from the interior of the Afiatic territory to the capital ; but were no 
where to be feen on the banks of the Bofphorus. 

A few days prior to the laft date of my narrative, an incident oc- 
curred which terminated in a Angular way. One of the men be- 
longing to the Britifh minion was, without any provocation on. his 



94 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

fide, afTaulted by a Turk, who attempted to ftab him with his yati- 
kan. On a report of this outrage being made to the Capitan Pacha, 
to whofe retinue the Turk belonged, he came to a refolution to have 
him decapitated, as an expiation of his offence. By the mediation 
and entreaties of Lord Elgin, a mitigation of the punifhment en- 
fued : the Turk, after having received fifty ftrokes of the baftinado 
on the foles of his feet, was fentenced to twenty years imprifonment 
in the college of Pera, to learn the Arabic language. 

Intelligence was received on the 20th, that a formidable band of 
robbers, in number four or five thoufand, had proceeded to the town 
of Burgas, which, although at a very inconfiderable diftance from the 
capital, they had ravaged with impunity. Similar bands had, during 
our refidence in Turkey, infefted the neighbourhood of Adrianople, 
and furniflicd a finking proof of the enfeebled flate of the Turkifh 
government, which permitted the high roads within a few leagues 
of the feat of the empire, to be befet to fuch a degree by thefe 
hordes of banditti, that travellers were at every flep in imminent 
danger both of their lives and property. It was however reported, 
that the Levant Chiflick regiment was under orders to fet out with- 
out delay for their difperfion. 

On the 28th, further accounts relative to the devaluations of thefe 
banditti were brought to Conftantinople. It was reported that they 
had burned feveral villages, and murdered fuch of the inhabitants 
as had not had time to betake thcmfelves to flight, together with 
the young children. The inhabitants of the places fituated within 
their reach, were every where betaking themfelvcs to flight ; and a 
letter from Ridofto ftated,, that that place was crouded with people, 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 95 

who had come thither for fhelter, or to procure boats to facilitate 
their efcape from thefe ferocious bands. The inhabitants of Pvidofto 
were employed in digging a ditch round the town, and in contriv- 
ing other means of defence, being in the daily expectation of a vifit 
from them, and of being expofed to the alternative of paying the 
heavy contributions they exacted wherever they came, or, in cafe of 
their incapacity, of having the town burned, and themfelves put to 
the fword. In confequence of the rapid progrefs of thefe plunderers, 
the Turkifh government had at length come to a refolution to dif- 
patch, in their purfuit, from eight to ten thoufand infantry and ca- 
valry. The precautionary meafure had alfo been taken, both in 
Conftantinople and in Pera, of apprehending all thofe who were fuf- 
pecled of having maintained a criminal intercourfe with them ; 
and fuch as were found guilty were inftantly hung to a door- poll, 
or tree, the bodies remaining fufpended for public view during three 
days. One of thefe bodies was feen hanging by feveral officers be- 
longing to the mimon, at an extremity of the fuburb of Pera, in the 
vicinity of the plague hofpital. 

On the evening of the 30th, Major Bromley arrived at Conftan- 
tinople, with difpatches to Lord Elgin from Sir Sydney Smith. He 
was alfo the bearer of letters from General Koehler, and from the 
officers by whom he was accompanied, dated at Cyprus, where he had 
left them about a month before. The general had forwarded a letter 
to the Vizier, and was in daily expectation of an anfwer. The in- 
formation received from Mr. Carlifle purported, that he had em- 
barked on board Le Tigre to proceed to the ftation off Alexandria, 
at which place, I was informed by Major Bromley, the plague raged 



9 6 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

with great violence. He related the particulars of the death of a 
brother of the French general officer, Julien, who received the in- 
fection by taking a pinch of fnuff from a box, out of which a perfon 
who had the plague on him at the time had alfo taken muff. 

On the 2d of April I accompanied Lord Elgin and his fuite to 
■the arfenal, to be prefent at the launch of a fhip of feventy-four 
guns. We fet out on horfeback, at feven in the morning, and were 
fhewn into a kiofque, which had been prepared for his Lordfhip's 
reception. The launch was announced by the firing of guns, by 
mufic, and other public demonftrations of joy ; and feveral fheep 
were facrificed on the occafion. A little after eight o'clock the 
launch took place, and being conducted in a very mafterly manner, 
afforded us much pleafure. The Grand Seignor, furrounded by all 
the great officers of Hate, and Turkifh grandees, was feated in the 
balcony of the Capitan Pacha's fhip. The great variety of colours 
which were difplayed gave an additional brilliancy to the fcene. The 
Turkifh mode of launching differs' effentially from ours : in entering 
the water, the fhip carries with it a confiderable quantity of tim- 
ber, which had ferved it for a cradle while building. 

The launch being over, we proceeded to a ftone bafon, recently 
conftructed by Captain Rowdey, a Swedifh engineer, the only one 
in the ports of the Turkifh empire, into which a fhip of feventy-four 
guns was to be received, it being the firft time of its being ufed. 
The Grand Seignor went thither in his barge, which had twenty- 
four rowers, and was about eighty feet in length, with a canopy 
richly and elegantly fitted up. On his paffing, a falute was fired 
from the off fide of the men of war. Being landed, he took his 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 97 

ftation at the window of a kiofque, fitted up exprefsly for the occa- 
fion, in the vicinity of the bafon. The fhip was with great addrefs 
conveyed into the bafon ; and, on the whole being concluded, both 
the fhip-builders, and thofe by whom the bafon had been conflmcled, 
were complimented with pelices of different values, and other pre- 
fents. Several caftans were alfo diftributed. 

In the vaft concourfe of perfons affembled to witnefs the launch, 
and the operation which followed, there were many Turkifh women, 
who were, however, feparated from the men. Notwithstanding every 
part of the harbour was covered with boats filled with fpectators, we 
did not hear of any accident having occurred ; neither did we witnefs 
the fmalleft confufion. Much of the praife was due to the Capitan 
Pacha, who was extremely active throughout the whole of the bufi- 
nefs, and who every where enforced obedience, and maintained good 
order. The fhip which was launched had been ready feveral weeks 
before ; but it had been deemed expedient to delay the launch until 
a favourable report fhould be made by the ajlrologcrs and dealers hi 
magic, who at length predicted, that the 2d of April would be a fa- 
vourable day for that purpofe.* She was confhucled by Monfieur 
Le Brun, a French builder. 

On the 5 th, in a morning's walk in the environs of Bifhi&afh, I 
Went into a houfe where the kymack was prepared daily, to fee the 
procefs employed in making it, which is as follows : Large mallow 
vefTels of copper having been filled with new milk from the cow, are 
placed over a gentle wood fire, and the milk kept fimmering for the 

* It is fcarcely credible that fuch folly fhould exift in any part of Europe at the clofc 
of the eighteenth century. Can fuch a people be formidable ? 

o 



9 S TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

fpace of twenty -four hours, when the fire is removed, and the milk 
allowed to cool. On the following day the furface, which has af- 
fumcd a confident form, is taken off, cut into fmall portions, and 
rolled up for ufe. This is the kymack, which is fo generally em- 
ployed, and fo highly eftcemed in Turkey. It is an excellent fubfti- 
tute for butter; and is eaten by fome with honey or fugar, by others 
with fait. The procefs I have juft defcribed has fome affinity to that 
employed in making the clotted cream, which is to be met with in 
the weftern counties of England. 

On the morning of the Oth, General Koehler and Major Fletcher 
returned to Conftantinople from Cyprus. The weather, which had 
been cold and ungenial for a confiderable time pad, and which was 
Itill fo on the Qth, fuddenly became fine and warm, infomuch that on 
the following day the tranfition was fo great as to refemble a rapid 
paifage from winter to fummer. Such a change was indeed much 
wanted, great numbers of perfons, both in the capital and luburbs, 
labouring under complaints which evidently refulted from the late 
uncommon rigour and inclemency of the feafon. 

On the 1 3th I went in a boat with the Rev. Mr. Hunt, chaplain 
to the Britifh embafly, to Leander's tower, fituated on the Bofphorus, 
between Scutari and Conftantinople. We fought the well, or fpring 
of frefh water, which hiftory reports to have exifted there, but could 
not difcover the fmalleft traces of it. We were led, therefore, to con- 
fidcr this tradition as apocryphal, and to infer, that if frefh water was 
at any time found there, it was owing to the rains. The perfons who 
refided in the tower were obliged to procure from a diftant fpot their 
fupply of water, which I tailed. They conducted us to the part 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 99 

which is occafionally lighted up, to direct, by night, the vefTels failing 
into the harbour. It was from this tower that Mr. Barker mace one 
of his views for the panorama ; and it afforded us a delightful profpect 
of the city, fuburbs, and furrounding country. The Seraglio more 
particularly was feen with a charming effect' from this commanding 
eminence. After having fatisfied our conductors, we went in the 
boat to Scutari, an ill built town, with narrow, winding ftreets, or 
rather lanes, which, as it prefented nothing that could gratify the 
traveller's notice, we foon quitted, and returned to Galata. 

I was told, that at Brufa, in Afia Minor, a town fituated at the 
diftance of a day's journey from Conflantinople, there are hot baths 
and mineral fprings, which are found extremely ufeful in the com- 
plaints prevailing in Turkey, more efpecially in the rheumatifm ; and 
that many perfons, having great confidence in thefe waters, went 
thither, during the month of May, from the capital, to fpend tw T o or 
three w'eeks. 

On the 15th accounts were brought to Conftantinople that the 
Levant Chiflick regiment, which had been fent againft the bands of 
robbers who infefted Romelia, had fucceeded in difperfmg them ; but 
that the commandant of the regiment, a German, had been wounded. 

On the 2lft the weather was oppreffively warm. I walked to the 
cemetery withoutfide of Pera, and was there witnefs to a very pleating 
and novel fcene. It being the Eafter of the Greeks, amufements of 
every defcription were exhibited ; and the colours and varieties of the 
coftumes difplayed by the immenfe crouds of perfons collected toge- 
ther, rendered the fpectacle highly interefring. There were wreftling 
matches, flails filled with fweetmeats and fherbet, and groups of. 



ioo TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

pcrfons feated on the grafs, playing at different games of chance, while 
others .were engaged in dancing in rings, to the mulic of an inftru- 
ment not unlike our bagpipe. This fcene reminded me of a country 
wake in England, to which it would have borne a Hill ftronger re- 
femblance, if a confiderable number of frying pans had not given it 
fomewhat the odour of our Bartholomew fair. They were employed, 
not for frying faufages, but liver, lights, &c. 

On every fuch day of feflivity, the Greeks, of courfe, difplay their 
bell: dreffes, which, in many inftances, are both tafteful and coftly. 
The fobriety of their demeanour cannot be equally commended ; 
fmce it too frequently happens that, by launching out into every ex- 
cefs, they require the interference of the Turkifh guards, ftationed 
purpofely to reprefs the tumult and diforder in which the giddy fcene 
may chance to terminate. 

During their lent they fubfift on oil and fifh, obferving a moil: rigid 
abffcinence. I have been told that this diet is, both among them and . 
the Armenians, productive of herpetic complaints, fcrophulous affec- 
tions, ophthalmies, and feveral other difeafes. 

On the 25th I walked out with a party, with the intention of crof- 
fmg over to Conftantinople, to make an excurfion round the walls. On 
our reaching Tophana, we witneffed a moft daring robbery (com- 
mitted in the open ftreet, at eleven in the morning, and in the pre- 
fencc of many perfons who were paffing at the time) by two galangis 
(feamen) belonging to the Capitan Pacha's fleet. They attacked an 
Armenian, from whom they took two fequins, and were proceeding 
to rifle him ftill further on our coming up. We were armed; and 
on our manifefting our difpleafure at the conduct, of thefe villains, 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 101 

they fuffered the Armenian to depart, but not until they had forced 
him to kifs one of them, as a token of acknowledgment for their for- 
bearance. In paffing through the fame ftreet, for the diftance of a 
quarter of a. mile, the people were afTembled, and on the look out, 
but dared not take any fteps to apprehend the robbers. This is one 
of many features which might be recorded of the fhameful negligence 
and inattention of the Turkim government. The galangis in quef- 
tion afterwards robbed two women at Galata ; on our reaching which 
place we were informed by MefTrs. Chandler and Whiteman, belonging 
to the million, in the qualities of commhTary and affiftant commifTary, 
that they alfo had been robbed there, near the tower. The crews of 
the men of war belonging to the fleet, which was preparing to fail, 
had for feveral days kept the inhabitants of Conftantinople, Galata, 
and Pera, in a conftant ftate of alarm, plundering and affaffinating 
with impunity all whom they encountered, and who were incapable 
of defence. Their excelTes are always moft to be dreaded when the 
fleet is on the eve of its departure, at which time the inhabitants con- 
ftantly take the precaution to fhut their mops, to guard as much as 
poffible again!! their lawlefs excelTes. On the above occafion we re- 
hnquifhed the plan of our excurfion to Conftantinople, which we 
now confidered as too hazardous. 

It was announced on the- 26th, that Seid Ali, a Turkim rear- 
admiral, who had been fentenced to be decapitated, had, through the 
humane interference of Lord Elgin, the Britifh ambafTador, had this 
capital punifhment remitted, on condition of his being banifhed to 
the ifland of Cyprus. A confiderable number of JanifTaries and Ga- 
langis, amounting, it was faid, to an hundred and twenty or an hun- 



, c a TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

drcd and thirty, were executed about this time, in confequence of the 
atrocities lately committed by them in the capital and fuburbs. A 
timely prevention of the crimes of which they had rendered them- 
felvcs culpable, would have been better than this tardy punifhment. 

On the 28th a prefent was received from the Capitan Pacha, for 
the widow of the late brave and meritorious officer, Captain Millar, 
of his Majcfty's fhip the Thefeus, who loft his life on board that fbip 
on the coaft of Syria, by the burlling of feveral fhells. This prefent 
was given in acknowledgment of the fervices which that much la- 
mented officer had rendered to the Turkifh government. 

On the 29 th the fquadron of the Capitan Pacha, confuting of feven 
fhips of the line, four mips of fifty guns, and feven frigates and fmaller 
velTcls, failed from the harbour of Conftantinople for Egypt. On its 
way it was to touch at Gallipoli, and feveral other towns in the 
Turkiili provinces, to levy contributions, and take in a fupply of bif- 
cuit for the voyage. 

The weather was at this time become warm, fettled, and agreeable. 
In the courfe of the morning, a party being made, we took boat, and 
croifed over to Afia. We landed near the ruins of an ancient impe- 
rial palace, over which we walked. On our penetrating into the 
country, we found the ftate of vegetation feveral weeks more advanced 
than on the European fide. The fields were overfprcad with flowers 
and odoriferous (hrubs in bloom ; the wheat was already formed in 
thcear; and the grafs in the meadows nearly fit for mowing. In 
fhort, the general appearance of the country, and the fmiling and ver- 
dant feencs by which v\e were furrounded, formed altogether a ftrik- 
ing contraft to what we had recently contemplated on the other fide 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 103 

of the water. We walked over the plain of the ancient Chalcedon, 
on the fite of which {lands a Turkifh village, called Cady Kui. There, 
beneath the made of the branches of a fine oriental plane tree, w T e 
took our coffee on the grafs, abforbed in the contemplation of the 
objecls by which we were encompaffed. In addition to the fine prof- 
peels which the interior of the country afforded, we had a diflincfc 
view of the gulf of Nicomedia, and of the Dasmonefi, or Princes' 
Wands. If we could judge from the numerous groups of men and 
women fcattered over this delightful country, it muft have been well 
peopled. Among them I faw, for the firft time, a Turkifh woman at 
her prayers, in- the open field. Such an incident, which is very com- 
mon among the men, very rarely occurs among the females. Towards 
the afternoon the w r eather became oppreffively hot ; and this haftened 
our return at three o'clock, when we took boat to crofs to the Euro- 
pean fide. 

On the 30th letters w 7 ere received from Captain Lacy, and from 
Mr. Morier, fecretary to Lord Elgin, who had fpent fome time with 
the Turkifh army, with the details of the defeat of the army of the 
Grand Vizier, by the French troops commanded by General Kleber. 

On the lft of May, garlands of flowers were hung over the doors 
of feveral houfes, in the fuburb in which I refided, in commemora- 
tion of the day. I was told that in feveral parts of Turkey, more 
particularly at the Princes' Iflands, this feflival was celebrated by the 
Greeks and others by great public rejoicings. 

On the following day, in walking through the ftreets in the vicinity 
of Tophana, I faw a great number of fheep collecled in pens for fale, 
as is the cuftom in England. This was preparatory to the feafi of 



,04 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

the biram courbam, when every Turk of any rank or condition was 
to facritice a Iheep, and, having eaten a portion , of it, to diftribute 
the remainder to the poor. 

On the 4th the feftival of the biram courbam, which has been al- 
ready defcribed, commenced. J As foon as the new moon was difco- 
vered, by men Rationed exprefsly for that purpofe, it was announced 
to the people by difcharges of artillery, mufketry, &c. On this day 
it was lawful for the Turks to begin to eat lamb ; and accordingly I 
faw feveral flocks of young lambs driven into the capital. 

On the 5 th, advices were brought from Palermo of the capture of 
the Guillaume Tell, a French line of battle Ihip, by the fquadron 
commanded by Lord Nelfon. 

I pafs over the occurrences of the fucceeding days, as being of but 
trifling import, and proceed to the ] /th, when feveral of the officers 
of the million, in the number of whom I was comprehended, accom- 
panied Lord Elgin, the Britilh ambaffador, with his band of mufic, 
on board a Ihip of the line commanded by Ali Bey, a Turkifh admi- 
ral. During the entertainment, which was conducted in the ufual 
Turkifh ftylc, his Lordlhip's band continued to play until fun-fet, 
when the admiral ordered the whole of his crew to prayers, and in- 
vited us to be prefcnt at the ceremony. It was conducted with great 
folemnity and decorum ; and the various geftures, attitudes and prof- 
trations obferved by the Mahometans at their devotion, were per- 
formed with the utmoft regularity and precifion by every individual 
belonging to the crew, fo as to have a very ftriking effecT:. 

A firman, or written order from the Sultan, having been procured 
for that purpofe, a party was made on the 18th to vifit the interior 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 105 

of the mofques at Conftantinople. The ornaments tire extremely 
Ample, confuting principally of large marble tablets, on fome of which 
are infcribed Arabic fentences, and paiTages from the Koran, while 
on others the names of the Deity, of Mahomet, and of his principal 
difciples and fucceiTors, are written. The domes are in general, and 
more particularly that of the mofque of Santa Sophia, wrought in 
mofaic, which the barbarifm of the Turks has, however, in a great 
meafure, defaced : beneath them are fufpended great numbers of 
coloured lamps, interfperfed with gilt ornaments. Several leading 
paffages of the Koran, before which the Turks make genuflexions, 
and pray with great fervency, are hung up near the pulpit, behind 
which is the fanctuary. Adjoining to the great corridor there is a 
chapel ; and a gallery, appropriated to the women, furrounds the 
whole of the interior of the building. The nave is fupported by co- 
lumns of porphyry, granite, &c. 

The Pacha of Nicomedia, HuiTein Pacha, on his return to Con- 
ftantinople from Ridofto, whither he had been fent fome time before 
for the purpofe of difperfing the bands of robbers collected in Romelia, 
was decapitated on the 22d. On this occafion a remarkable inliance 
of Turkifh duplicity occurred. His reception by the Kia ma kan, on 
his reaching the capital, was highly flattering ; and he was invited by 
him to proceed to the Seraglio, and there receive the rewards due to 
his good and meritorious conduct. On his entering, however, the gate 
of the Seraglio, -after the Kia ma kan had faluted him, and wifhed 
him a good morning, he was feized by the guards, and inftantly de- 
capitated. It was reported, that he had been guilty of feveral grofs 
acts of mifconduct ; and it was ursed, anions other accufations, that 

p 



io6 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

he had not oppofed fo effectual a refiftance to the banditti as he might 
have done ; and that he had levied heavy contributions on the inha- 
bitants of Ridofto, and of the other towns of Romelia. 

On the 20th General Koehler, and ail the officers belonging to the 
miffion, went in proceffion through the ftreets of Conftantinople to 
the Porte. Several horfes richly caparifoned, under the charge of one 
of the Grand Seignor's equerries, and led by as many fais, or Turkifh 
grooms, were, together with a party of janifTaries, and other troops, 
in waiting at the landing place to conduct them to the Porte, on their 
reaching which, they were prefented to the Reis Effendi, Kia ma kan, 
and Kiabey, each in his particular apartment. After the ufual compli- 
ments had been paid them, the General and Lieutenant-colonel Hol- 
loway were invefted with pelices, and the other officers with beniches, 
or robes of honour. Embroidered handkerchiefs, and other prefents, 
were alfo diftributed. Having taken leave, they returned in procef- 
fion, obferving the fame order as in fetting out. This vifit of cere- 
mony had been appointed by the Porte, previoully to the departure of 
the miffion for Syria, to join the army of the Grand Vizier, for which 
purpofe the detachment was under orders to embark on board the 
tranfport. 

On the 4th of June a fuperb fete, in honour of his Majefty's birth- 
day, was given by Lord Elgin. On this occafion all the members of 
the diplomatic body, with their families, were invited, and a very 
felect and fafhionable party formed. In the front of his Lordffiip's 
palace at Belgrade, a booth was fitted up, and the royal ftandard dif- 
played. The awning and avenues leading to the palace were fanci- 
fully decorated with branches of oak, and fcftoons of flowers ; and in 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 107 

the centre of the table, within the tent or booth, a bank of 'flowers 
was difpofed, the top of the tent itfelf being ornamented with feftoons 
of rofe branches. Precifely at three o'clock the dinner, which con- 
iifted of every delicacy the feafon could fupply, and the place afford, 
and to Which more than an hundred perfons fat down, was ferved* 
Before the deifert was placed on the table, the King's health was given ; 
and on this fignal, his Lordfhip's band played God fave the King, the 
company joining in the chorus. This was followed by three cheers, 
all the guefts ftanding up ; and next fucceeded a falute of twenty- 
one maroons. After dinner the company withdrew to the palace, 
where feveral feled; pieces of mufic were played by the band; and in 
the evening the country dances commenced beneath the tent. At 
eleven o'clock a cold collation was ferved ; and the entertainment was* 
concluded by country dances, which were continued within the pa- 
lace until two in the morning, when the company broke up, highly 
gratified by the amufements of the day, which w r ere rendered ftill 
more pleafing by the finenefs and ferenity of the weather. The effecT; 
of the dances beneath the tent was Angularly piclurefque. 

Our departure for Syria having been ferioufly decided on by the 
Turkifh government, the men belonging to the miffion were about 
this time embarked on board the tranfport. The wind, however, 
continuing contrary for fome time, the officers did not embark until 
the 13th. On our quitting Belgrade for that purpofe, we were ac- 
companied to the tranfport by Lord and Lady Elgin, who took their 
leave of us in a moll cordial and friendly manner. All our arrange- 
ments having been made, we waited for a favourable breeze only to 

P 2 



io8 "TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

fucceed the calm which prevailed, and to convey us fafely out of the 
harbour. 

Before I take my leave, for the prefent, of the capital of Turkey, I 
muft intrude upon the reader's patience to introduce an anecdote 
tending to mew that the Turkifh empire has produced men not defi- 
cient in judgment and acute penetration, who, with minds better cul- 
tivated, would be the boaft and ornament of any nation whatever. 
A cafe of ufury was brought before the Grand Vizier. A Turk had 
lent to another a fum of money equal to a thoufand pounds fterling, 
at an intereft which was immoderate even in this country, where the 
legal intereft, in fome inftances, amounts to twenty per cent. The 
borrower kept this money in ufe during ten years, when he refunded 
it to the lender, but refufed to pay the intereft, on the ground of its 
illegality. The Grand Vizier acknowledged thejuftice of his plea; 
but with great ready wit, and a nice difcernment of the cafe, ordered 
him to lend to the Turk, whofe debtor he had been, without intereft, 
an equal fum for the fame fpace of time. 



r 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 



CHAPTER VII. 

THE MISSION SET SAIL FROM CONSTANTINOPLE ANCHOR AT PRINCES' 

ISLANDS VISIT TO ADAM OGLOU GREEK ISLANDS DESCRIPTION OF 

PATMOS STANCHO IMMENSE ORIENTAL PLANE CYPRUS : DESCRIP- 
TION OF THAT ISLAND PLAGUE OF LOCUSTS ARRIVAL AT JAFFA DE- 
SCRIPTION OF THAT PLACE AND ITS VICINITY. 

"^TOT WITHSTANDING the wind which had fprung up was 
unfavourable, fuch was the anxiety expreffed by the Porte for 
the departure of the miffion, that we were in a manner obliged to 
get under way on the 15th. We were provided with firmans to the 
different Pachas and Agas of the illands at which we might have oc- 
calion to touch, with inftruclions to afford us every poflible affiftance, 
and to furnim fuch fupplies as might tend to facilitate the objecT; of 
our voyage. 

At half paft ten in the morning we weighed anchor, and failed 
from the harbour of Constantinople ; but, the wind falling off, could 
not proceed further than Princes' Iflands. At three in the afternoon 
we anchored between Antigone and Kirka, which form a part of the 
group, and are fituated at a fmall diftance (eight or ten miles) from the 
Seven Towers. In the vicinity of the fafe and commodious harbour 
in which we lay, at the back part of the iiland of Antigone, we per- 
ceived a fmall village, inhabited entirely by Greeks. This was an in- 



no TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

ducement to us to go on more in the evening, when we found the 
heat extremely oppreflive. 

On the 1 Oth, the wind having fhifted to the northward, we weighed 
anchor, and failed with a frelh breeze, which continuing to favour us, 
we defcried Gallipoli, at nine in the morning of the 17th, and by 
eleven o'clock were paft that town. We faw the wreck of a Turkilk 
man of war, which had been caft away fome time before, lying in 
the bay. At half paft one we anchored oppoute to Mito, and clofe 
in with Abydos, in the Dardanelles. We were to remain there two 
days, to take on board our ftock, and other neceflaries for the voyage. 
An Englifh merchantman, the Southwold, on her way to England, 
anchored near us in the afternoon ; at which time the fon of the con- 
mi of Chennecally came on board, and informed us, that an impe- 
rial fliip from Alexandria, having the plague on board, was at anchor 
on the other fide of Chennecally. The captain and feveral of the 
crew having already fallen victims to that difeafe, every communica- 
tion between the veflel and the more had been cut off. 

On the 18th we paid a vifit to Adam Oglou, who was then at 
Chennecally, by whom we were invited to dine on the following day. 
In the evening a Tartar arrived with difpatches from Lord Elgin to 
the general. 

On the 19th, agreeably to our invitation, we fet out on our vifit to 
Adam Oglou, the general and a part of the officers proceeding thither 
by water, and the others on horfes richly caparifoned, which the Bey 
had fent for our accommodation. We met with a very polite recep- 
tion ; and fhortly after our arrival, pipes and coffee were, as ufual, 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. m 

prefcnted to us. The dinner, which was fimilar to thofe I have al- 
ready defcribed, and in the courfe of which wine was handed to us, 
was ferved about noon. It confifted of fifteen dimes, which prefented 
a great variety of Turkifh cookery, and the laft of which was, ac- 
cording to cuftom, a mefs of pilaw. Before we fat down to dinner, 
and after the repaft was concluded, foap and water were brought to 
us, to wafh our hands : this is a point of cleanlinefs which the Turks 
never neglecl:. 

Pipes and coffee having been again brought in, a party of Turkifii 
wreftlers, about fourteen or fixteen in number, naked, and befmeared 
with oil, according to the ufage of the country, exhibited in front of 
the Bey's houfe. Before they commenced, a herald proclaimed the 
combat, defcribing the opponents, and expatiating on their fkill in 
wreftling. This amufement, to which the Turks are very much at- 
tached, requires in the performance a great mare of ftrength and ad- 
drefs. As fbon as one of the combatants had thrown his adverfary 
on his back, he received from Adam Oglou a prefent of ten piaftres. 
We Itaid with the Bey till near four o'clock, when we took our leave, 
and proceeded to the beach near Abydos, whence we went on board 
the tranfport. 

During our flay, Mrs. Koehler was in the Harem. We learned 
from her that Adam Oglou's wife was very richly dreffed, and carried 
about her a profufion of diamonds. Mrs. Koehler was attended by 
the wives and female relatives of the conful. 

During the night it blew a ftrong gale from the fouthward, with 
thunder, lightning, and heavy mowers of rain. At eight o'clock in 
the morning of the 20th, we got under way, and failed from the 



112 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

Dardanelles, faluting the forts as we palled, and receiving from them 
in return a like number of guns. A frefh breeze fpringing up from 
the north- weft, we pafled the lowed fort, Koum Kali, between nine 
and ten o'clock ; and by half paft eleven were oppofite the caftle 
fituated in the ifland of Tenedos. At half paft fix in the evening wc 
palled the ifland of Mitylene, amidft a fmart fquall of wind and rain: 
at that time the iflands of Scio and Nicaria were in fight. The effecl 
of the fetting fun was extremely fine, the rays, which were of a beau- 
tiful role colour, refembling thofe we had on a former occafion no- 
ticed off Sicily. 

During the night we paffed the ifland of Ipfera ; and by feven in 
the morning of the 2lft were off the iflands of Scio and Nicaria, hav- 
ing Samos in our view. By noon we had paffed Nicaria, a wretched 
ifland, which affords nothing but wood for charcoal, to its half civi- 
lized inhabitants, who refide in caves. At two in the afternoon 
we paffed Samos and the Fournis Iflands : the former is in one part 
extremely lofty, infomuch that it is confidered by fome to have an 
elevation almoft equal to that of Gibraltar. At the above hour the 
ifland of Patmos was in fight, diftant from ten to twelve leagues. 
Being ftill favoured by a ftrong breeze from the north-eaft, we were 
off the harbour of that ifland between five and fix o'clock in the 
evening ; but, being obliged to make feveral tacks in going in, did not 
come to an anchor till an hour after. 

Patmos has an excellent harbour; and the town being fituated on 
the loftieft part of the ifland, makes a pretty appearance in entering. 
The houfes being conftrucled of a white free-ftone, have a peculiarly 
neat afpect, very different from what we had hitherto feen in this 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 113 

quarter of the globe. It has been calculated that the town has an 
elevation of nearly five hundred feet above the level of the fea. In 
its centre is a large convent dedicated to St. John the evangelift, 
who was banifhed to this ifland. It was here that he wrote the 
Revelations ; and after we had landed, we faw, in walking to the 
fummit of the hill, the grotto in which he is faid to have compofed 
them. We next vifited the convent, which has a refident bifhop, 
with a confiderable number of monks, and in which is a college for 
the education of the young men of the Greek perfuafion. Over the 
gateway of the entrance are three large bells ; and the chapel within 
has a neat mofaic pavement. In afcending the illand the road winds 
confiderably, and prefents otherwife great difficulties, infomuch that 
it coft us no little labour to reach the fummit. In thofe parts of 
the ifland which the inhabitants were able to cultivate, we faw fe- 
veral fmall fields, or patches of corn, banked up with ftones to pre- 
vent the foil from being warned away by the rains : it appeared, 
however, that it was capable of producing but an inconfiderable 
quantity of grain. 

The town, which contains about two hundred houfes, all of them 
provided with balconies, is, as well as the reft of the ifland, inha- 
bited exclufively by Greeks. The women are to the men in the 
proportion of five to one. They are pretty ; and wear on their 
heads a high turban of a peculiar form, made of white crape, a nar- 
row flip of which falls down behind, and nearly reaches the ground. 
The inhabitants procure fheep and cattle from the neighbouring 
iflands, their own being fo barren as to make but a fcanty return 
to the labour and induftry they beftow upon it. It was very late 

Q 



ii 4 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

before we returned to the tranfport, extremely wearied with our 
evening's excurfion, and highly pleafed, at the fame time, at the op- 
portunity which had been afforded us to land on fo celebrated a fpot. 

Early in the morning of the 22d we weighed anchor, and failed 
with a fteady and favourable wind at north-weft, which, at a quarter 
before three in the afternoon, conveyed us to our anchorage off 
Stancho, a vary beautiful and fertile ifland, abounding in corn, fruits, 
and vegetables. Among the fruits which were in feafon, we faw, 
on our landing, grapes, figs, lemons and oranges in abundance. We 
alfo met with capers, which grew wild, and required no culture. 
Over the plains numerous flocks and herds were difperfed. 

After the ufual ceremony of faluting the fort, we waited on the 
governor, who with great civility fent a perfon to accompany us to 
the gardens, in which we had a very agreeable walk, and were 
conducted thence to the houfe of the late Capitan Pacha, the great 
Harlan Pacha. In paffing through the town, we faw feveral frag- 
ments of antique ftatues and columns. The inhabitants confift 
partly of Turks, and partly of Greeks. 

We were highly gratified by the view of a beautiful oriental plane 
tree of furprifing dimenfions, fituated near the entrance of the fort, 
and overfhadowing a large tract of ground. From the outride of its 
branches to the oppofite fide, it meafured an hundred and twenty- 
nine feet ; and its trunk was thirty-four feet in circumference. Its 
enormous branches were fupported by large and beautiful columns 
of marble and granite, about twenty in number, which had been 
brought purpofcly thither ; and beneath its made was the tomb of 
a Turkilh faint, together with a fountain, and Turkifh coffee-houfes. 



I 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 115 

On the 23d, at four in the morning, we failed from Stancho, with 
a frefh breeze from the north-weft, for Rhodes, which we defcried 
at half paft fix. At nine we were becalmed ; but the wind again 
fpringing up at noon, we came to an anchor off that ifland at fix in 
the evening. Its appearance from the water was very pleafmg ; but 
we did not land. 

We failed on the following morning at feven o'clock, with the 
wind at weft ; and at two in the afternoon faw feveral brigs ahead 
of us, fteering in the direction of Rhodes. On one of them ap- 
proaching us, we hoifted our colours, and were anfwered by the im- 
perial flag. 

On the 25th we had light winds from the fouth-eaft, the weather 
being at the fame time extremely warm. We expected to make 
Cyprus in the courfe of the day, but were difappointed. When the 
evening came on, we had nearly loft fight of the land, which we 
afterwards contrived to approach, and parTed Ca{fel de Rofo during 
the night. 

On the morning of the 26th the land was out of fight, and we 
were nearly becalmed ; but a gentle north-weft breeze fpringing up 
at noon, we were fhortly after enabled to defcry the land, which 
was, however, at a great diftance from us. In the courfe of the 
afternoon we faw feveral ftrange fail, one of which, an Englifh 
fnow, bound to Rhodes, hoifted her colours. At five o'clock we 
perceived the low land of Cyprus. 

At eight in the morning of the 2 7th, we were clofe in with Cape 
Biancho, fteering with a light breeze for Limefol, in Cyprus : at 



n6 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

noon we came to anchor in feven fathom water off that place, which 
had a pleafing appearance from the fhip. We were informed that 
the inhabitants of Limefol were free from the plague ; but that at 
Nicofia, fituated in another part of the illand, it was then making 
great ravages, infomuch that fifty individuals perimed daily. It was 
agreed that we mould make a fhort ftay here, to take in ballaft, and 
recruit our flock of provifions. 

On the 28th we went on more early, and paid a morning's vifit 
to the conful of Limefol, Signor Demetrio Nicolo Frankuli, with 
whom we dined, and afterwards walked in the town. The houfes 
are white, and flat-roofed, being built of clay and flraw, intermixed 
with ftones. Withinfide, the ceilings of the apartments are arched 
and lofty, to render them as cool as poffible. The inhabitants con- 
fift chiefly of Turks and Greeks. The appearance of the part of 
the ifland in which Limefol is fituated, was, at the time we were 
there, fomewhat dreary : this, we were told, had been occafioned by 
the dreadful havoc made by the locufts fome weeks before, at which 
time, we were allured by the conful, thefe devouring infects were 
ftrewed on the ground, in fome places, nearly a foot thick. They 
had eaten the foliage of the orange and lemon trees, and had de- 
ftroyed all the herbage in the vicinity of Limefol. In certain years 
they vifit the illand at a ftated period, to renew their deftruclive 
ravages. 

The flirub which bears the caper grows wild at Cyprus, and has 
a very pretty bloffom. Among other vegetable productions, we faw 
medzancs, okers, cucumbers, gourds, and melons, the three latter 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. * 117 

extremely large. Provisions, vegetables, fruits, and wine, which are 
in general fold at a very moderate price in this ifland, were become 
dear on account of the havock which the locufts had made. Cyprus 
wine of a good quality coll us from four to five piaftres the meafure, 
which contains eight okes,-or nearly eleven Englifh quarts. 

After having paid a yifit to the Aga, who made us a prefent of 
feveral fheep, we purchafed the different articles of which we had 
need, and among others a good Store of green almonds and apricots, 
the former of which, as well as mulberries, grow wild in abundance. 
During our Stay at Limefol, we were incommoded by the exceffive 
heat, which was augmented by the reflection of the fun from the 
white buildings. In returning to the tranfport in the evening, we 
met with the captain of a veffel who had left Jaffa, the place of our 
destination, three days before, and who had feen there, at the time 
of his departure, Sir Sydney Smith, and the Capitan Pacha. We 
alfo fell in with a considerable number of Turks, who had deferted 
from the army of the Grand Vizier at Jaffa, and were on their way 
to Conftantinople. 

We weighed anchor, and bore away on the following morning 
at half paft eleven, with a fouth-weSt wind; and on the 30th, at 
noon, found, by our dead reckoning, that we had run a hundred and 
three miles Since our departure from Limefol, in the Space of fome- 
what more than twenty-four hours. We were then in the latitude 
of 32 degrees, 5(3 minutes, and without fight of land. During the 
night the wind was fcanty ; and this occafioned us to experience a 
very unpleafant motion from the rolling of the tranfport. 



1 18 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

On the l ft of July an obfcrvation was taken at noon, and we 
found ourfelves in the latitude of 31 degrees, 28 minutes. The fea- 
men at the maft-head fancied they could perceive the land on our 
{larboard bow, in confequence of which we fhaped our courfe to 
the fouth-eaft. In a little time the land was feen diftin&ly ; but 
our pilot was utterly at a lofs to conjecture where we were. It was 
fufpe&ed, however, that we were below Gaza ; and that the land 
defcried was Afcalon. We in confequence hauled up to the north- 
eaft at fix in the evening. 

On the morning of the 2d, our pilot was ftill in the fame ftate of 
incertitude as to our abfolute fituation ; but on a fuppofition that we 
were too far to the fouthward, our courfe was fomewhat altered. 
At feven o'clock we faw a ftrange fail ; and at ten defcried feveral 
others at anchor off Jaffa, which was now diftinclly in our view. 
At a quarter paft one, we anchored of? that place, in fifteen fathom 
water ; and found lying there twenty veffels of different burdens, 
chiefly Ruffian, but none of them Englifh. We faw the Grand 
Vizier's encampment diftributed in the outfkirts of the town, which 
ftands on a circular eminence clofe to the fea more. The houfes 
are white, and are all of them provided with domes and fquare 
towers. The colours of the different nations were flying over the 
houfes of the confuls. The foil in the vicinity of Jaffa is fandy, and 
prcfcnts a dreary and forlorn afpecl:. I mail have occafion very 
fhortly to enter into fome particular and interefting details relative 
both to the town and to the furrounding country. We landed in 
the evening, and proceeded to the houfe of the Britifh Conful, where 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 119 

we found Mr. Morier, fecretary to Lord Elgin, with whom we 
took up our immediate abode. We were now debarked on the 
Syrian coaft, to be the fpectators of great military events, in 
which we were ourfelves to be engaged ; and that in a country on 
which hiftory, both facred and profane, has conferred the higheft ce- 
lebrity. 



I 20 



TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 



CHAPTER VIII. 

JUNCTION WITH THE GRAND VIZIER ALARMING INFORMATION CON- 
CERNING THE BREAKING OUT OP THE PLAGUE ENCAMPMENT NEAR 

JAFFA DANGERS AND INCONVENIENCIES OF THIS SITUATION INTEL- 
LIGENCE RECEIVED OF THE ASSASSINATION OF GENERAL KLEBER 

TURKISH ARTILLERY AMUSEMENT OF DJERID ENCAMPMENT OF THE 

MISSION TURKISH OFFICERS OF STATE CHARACTER OF THE GRAND 

VIZIER ; OF THE REIS EFFENDI — DESCRIPTION OF JAFFA STORMING 

OF THAT PLACE BY THE FRENCH -INHUMAN CONDUCT ASCRIBED BY 

THE TURKS TO BONAPARTE WARM BATH IN THE CAMP ERUPTIVE 

COMPLAINT ANECDOTE EVINCING THE EXTREME IGNORANCE OF THE 

TURKS IN MATTERS OF SCIENCE INSURRECTION AT NABLOUS UN- 
DISCIPLINED AND DISORDERLY STATE OF THE TURKISH SOLDIERY 

SCENE OF THE MASSACRE COMMITTED ON THEIR CAPTIVES BY THE 

FRENCH MILITARY EXERCISE OF THE TURKS PLAGUE BREAKS OUT 

' AMONG THE MAMELUKES RUSSIAN AGENT AT JAFFA DIES OF THE 

PLAGUE REVIEW OF THE TURKISH ARMY PLAGUE CONTINUES TO 

RAGE AMONG THE MAMELUKES DESCRIPTION OF AN ARAB VILLAGE, 

AND ITS INHABITANTS FIRST STONE LAID OF THE NEW FORTIFICA- 
TION AT JAFFA— DISSECTION OF A CAMELION MAMELUKE CHIEFS DIE 

OF THE PLAGUE INSOLENCE OF THE ARNAUTS, AND WEAKNESS OF 

THE TURKISH GOVERNMENT EGYPTIAN JUGGLERS CAMP INFESTED 

BY LARGE PACKS OF JACKALS DESERTION OF ARNAUTS ACCOUNT 

OF THE DEHLIS. 

"jT7 ARLY on the following morning, July 3d, the Grand Vizier 
having lent horfcs from his camp for our accommodation, we 
paid a vifit to his Highnefs, and another to the Reis EfTendi. From 
each of them- we met with a very polite and friendly reception ; and, 
the general having been inveficd with a pelice, orders were imme- 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 121 

diately given to pitch tents for our officers and men. A Turkifh 
mikmcndar, or provider, appointed by his Highnefs the Grand 
Vizier, waited on General Koehler to receive his orders and inftruc- 
tions relative to the encampment of the miffion, and the provifions 
which would be requifite for them. A choarbagis, or colonel of 
JanifTaries, and fome of his people, were alfo attached to the miffion. 

We found the Turkifh troops encamped in the mofl confufed and 
irregular manner, without any order in the pofitions they occupied, 
each individual having pitched his tent on the fpot which was moft 
agreeable to his inclination. The only regulation that feemed to 
border fomewhat on fyftem was, that each Pacha, or military go- 
vernor, was furrounded by his own men. The encampment was on 
a white fandy foil ; and I obferved a confiderable number of tents 
converted into cook's mops, while others were fet afide for the fale 
of various commodities, particularly coffee and tobacco, of which, 
among the Turks, there is a great and conftant confumption. This 
traffic in the camps is for the greater part carried on by JanifTaries. 
The troops were fpread over a very confiderable extent of ground. 

On a foil fimilar to that which I have defcribed, the heat, in the 
month of July, could not be otherwife than very oppreffive in fach 
a climate as that of Syria : we accordingly found, on our landing 
from the tranfport, a very fenfible alteration in that refpec*l. From 
the fame caufe we felt alfo a painful fenfation in the eyes, which 
will not be deemed extraordinary, when it is confidered that, during 
the fummer folftice, the natives themfelves are in general fubjecl: to 
violent ophthalmies. 

On the morning which followed our debarkation, our feelings 

R 



122 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

were ilrongly excited by the information we received that an indi- 
vidual, dwelling under the fame roof with ourfelves, laboured under 
the plague, by which he had been attacked about ten days. At fo 
remote a diftance from our relatives, from every objecl of our ten- 
dered: folicitude, our fenfations, when this intelligence was imparted 
to us, can be better felt than defcribed. No fooner were we em- 
barked in a fervice which obliged us to maintain a ftricT: and con- 
ftant intercourfe with the Turks, who, from a variety of concomi- 
tant caufcs, which I mall hereafter have occafion to explain, are 
inceffantly expofed to the ravages of this devaftating fcourge ; — no 
fooner were we landed in the midft of the Turkifh encampment, 
than we began to breathe the peftilential miafmata which hovered 
in the atmofphere of our abode. Thofe only whom their duty has 
fevered from their deareft connections, and who, in diftant regions, 
have had to encounter perils more imminent than thofc which refult 
from the murderous weapon of the adverfary, can duly eftimate the 
fad reckoning of our feelings and fenfations. 

Signor Boferi, phyfician to the Grand Vizier, afforded me fome 
confolation at our meeting, by the affurance he gave me that the 
camp was at that time in a tolerably healthy ftatc, the prevailing 
difeafes being bilious fevers, which did not terminate fatally. He 
obfervcd, that the plague had recently manifefted itfelf in a few in- 
ftances only, and thofe of the mildeft nature, which had yielded to 
the remedies adminiftcred. 

The fituation which had been chofen for the camp manifefted an 
incredible degree of ignorance and imprudence on the part of thofe 
who had been entruftcd with the marking out of the ground : being 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 123 

placed to leeward of the town, the fea breeze, which conftantly pre- 
vailed during the day time, diftributed to every part of it the putrid 
noxious effluvia which the ftreets of Jaffa produced. The tents 
were abfolutely pitched among the abodes of the dead ; and the 
bodies of thofe who had been interred were in general fo fuperficially 
covered over by the earth, that the putrid exhalations which were 
thus generated were intolerable to the paffenger, and muft have 
been as baneful as difgufting to thofe who were conftantly expofed 
to them. To complete the horrors of this fcene of filth and depra- 
vity, the carcaffes of dead animals, fuch as camels, horfes, and alTes, 
were fcattered in great abundance among the tents, to corrupt and 
moulder away, without giving the fmalleft concern, or apparently 
offering any kind of moleftation to the Turkifh foldiery. It will 
not be furprifing, in the fequel, to find them very fickly, unlefs we 
could fuppofe that their mode of living, and the air which they have 
been accuftomed to infpire, mould have rendered their temperament 
unfufceptible to the operation of fuch baneful caufes. 

On the fubjecT: of the plague, Sonini is of opinion that it is not 
endemic in Egypt and Syria ; but that, whenever it has raged in 
the capital of Turkey, it has been brought thither from other parts 
of the Turkifh empire, properly fo called, that is, from the neigh- 
bouring provinces. Without entering, on this occafion, into a dis- 
pute which would require a long feries of obfervations to decide, I 
mall confine myfelf to the mention of a fa6l which ftrongly militates 
againft this opinion, namely, that fince the communication with 
Egypt has been intercepted, Conftantinople has been almoft entirely 
free from the plague. 



124 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

Mr. Wright, of his Majefty's fhip Le Tigre, arrived at Jaffa late 
in the evening from Cairo, to which place he had gone with dif- 
patches, and had paffcd twelve days on his route. He brought in- 
telligence of the affaffmation of General Kleber ; of Menou, who 
had turned Mahommedan, and taken the name of Abdallah, having 
fuccecded to the command of the French forces ; and of the fitua- 
tion of Mourad Bey, who had rejoined his camp. He reprefented 
the new French commander in chief, Menou, as making every pre- 
paration to oppofe a vigorous refinance ; and defcribed the French 
troops, who w r ere extremely exafperated at the death of General 
Kleber, as being in excellent health and fpirits. They were clothed 
in red ; they did not lie in tents ; and were become very hardy, and 
well inured to the climate. The French had eftablifhed a coxps of 
troops, mounted on dromedaries, of which they formed a breaft- 
work, when expofed to the enemy's fire. In this cafe the French 
foldiers difmounted from them, tied one of the fore legs, and placed 
themfelves under fhelter, in the rear of the animals. From eight 
hundred to a thoufand of the French troops were thus mounted, 
and did great execution when oppofcd to the Turks. 

Mr. Morier failed on the evening of the 7th, in the New Adven- 
ture tranfport, for Cyprus, on his way to Conftantinople. The re- 
turn of the tranfport, which was to take in wood and water at Lar- 
ncca, was to be expected in the courfe of eight or ten days. 

On the morning of the 8th, an Englifh gun-boat, commanded by 
a lieutenant, arrived from Rhodes, and anchored off Jaffa. We 
were informed by her commander, that the velocity of the current 
of the Nile (which began to rife about the middle of the laft month) 
into the ocean, was at leaft equal to four miles an hour. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 125 

On the Qth, at five in the morning, we accompanied the general 
to the ground occupied by the Turkifh artillery : we found the 
Vizier there, attended by his principal officers, and a band of mufi- * 
cians. A good practice was made with the field-pieces and howit- 
zers ; and the target was beaten down by a topgis, or Turkifh gun- 
ner, who received from the Grand Vizier a prefent of fcveral fequins. 
On the return of his Highnefs to his tent, he partook of the amufe- 
ment of a djerid party, which I have already explained to confift of 
feveral combatants, mounted, and armed with long fticks, or wands. 
Thefe they dart at each other with great dexterity, checking their 
horfes while on full fpeed, each fkilfully avoiding the ftroke his ad- 
verfary aims at him. In this military fport, or exercife, the Grand 
Vizier difplayed great addrefs and good horfemanfhip ; while feveral 
Mamelukes and Turks were galloping round the field, and amufing 
themfelves in the fame manner. 

On this day we were encamped with the Turkifh army, all the 
necelfary preparations having been made to that effect. Our tents 
were very agreeably pitched in the midft of gardens filled with orange, 
lemon, pomegranate, fig, and mulberry trees : on the whole, indeed, 
our fituation was very eligible, and contiguous to a well of excellent 
water. We were, however, but indifferently fupplied with vege- 
tables, which confided merely of a few gourds, ockres, and cucum- 
bers ; but we had, plenty of excellent mutton and poultry. Our pro- 
vifions were furnifhed by the Grand Vizier; and, in addition to the 
mikmendar, or provider, I have already noticed, a bayraclar, or 
ftandard-bearer, together with a party of JanifTaries, commanded by 
a colonel, were attached to the miffioh, and encamped with it. 



126 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

Alter having amufed himfelf, as I have defcribed, the Grand Vizier 
infpcclcd our men, who were drawn up in readinefs to receive him, 
and who went through the manual exercife to his entire fatisfac~lion. 
From the information I could collect, it appeared, that the Turkifti 
forces in the encampment confifted of about fifteen thoufand fight- 
ing men. It was expected that the Mamelukes, feveral hundreds 
of whom were already attached to the Turkifh army, would furnifli 
a very confiderable augmentation. 

The principal officers of the Porte at the encampment were the 
Grand Vizier, the Kiabey, or Vizier's lieutenant, who tranfa&s the 
affairs of the home department, the Tefterdar, or treafurer, and the 
Reis EfFendi, or fecretary of ftate for foreign affairs. A concife ac- 
count of the Vizier, and of the Reis EfFendi, the moft diftinguifhed 
of thefe perfonages, will probably not be unacceptable to the reader. 

Youzouf Zia Pacha was, at the time of our arrival in Syria, about 
fixty years of age. He was originally a Georgian (lave, and became 
the Toutoun Bachi, or matter of the pipes, of the Pacha of Erzoum. 
This office, which he held with great fidelity, affords me an oppor- 
tunity to introduce the portrait, Plate VI., of an Ich Aga, or Toutoun 
Bachi, in his appropriate cottume, and bearing the infignia or im- 
plements of his office. 

On the death of his matter, Youzouf Zia Pacha fucceeded to his 
government, and conducted himfelf with fo much prudence and 
moderation, as to gain the entire confidence and afFedtion of his fub- 
jecls. Having in this ftation acquired great riches, he afterwards 
obtained the rank of pacha of two tails, and, at the commencement 
of the war between Turkey and France, was elevated to the dignity 



PL VI 




SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 127 

of Grand Vizier. In the month of April, 17QQ, he was ordered by 
the Grand Seignor to take on him the command of the army, which 
was about to act againft the French in Egypt ; and was at that time 
raifed to the rank of a pacha of three tails. 

In confequence of an accident at a djerid party, Youzouf Zia 
Pacha has loft an eye. He is affable and courteous ; and has, on a 
variety of occafions, evinced his humanity, never inflicting a punifh- 
ment unlefs on the moil urgent occafions. 

Mahmoud Reif Effendi, the Reis Effendi, was, at the time above 
mentioned, between forty and fifty years of age. During a refidence 
of four years in England, as fecretary to the Turkifh. ambaiTador, 
he acquired a great fund of general information : he fpcaks the 
French language very fluently, and is juftly confidered as a man 
polTeffing much ability and information. 

An opportunity will occur, more confidently with the order of my 
narrative, of prefenting the reader with a particular account ot the 
Turkifh army in camp ; I fhall, therefore, proceed to a concife de- 
fcription of Jaffa, in the vicinity of which it was ftationed. Jaffa 
is fituated on an eminence: nearly in the centre of the town is an 
old ruinous building, called the citadel, on the top of which is a 
round cafemated tow 7 er, provided with one or two wretched pieces 
of ordnance. This work, which by no means appears calculated to 
repel the attack of an enemy from without, feems rather intended to 
overawe the place itfelf, in the event of inteftme commotion. 

The city is furrounded by a ftone wall, provided, at certain dis- 
tances, with towers alternately fquare and round. Notwithftanding 
this wall cannot boaft of any great Itrength, it fufficed to force 



is!) TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

Bonaparte's army to break ground, and to erect batteries againft it 
to the ibuthvvard. After a breach had been effected, the French 
troops ftormed, and carried the place. It was probably owing to the 
obftinate defence made by the Turks, that the French commander 
in chief was induced to give orders for the horrid maflacre which 
fuccceded. Four thoufand of the wretched inhabitants, who had 
furrendered, and who had, in vain, implored the mercy of their 
conquerors, were, together with a part of the late Turkifh garrifon 
of El-Arifn (amounting, it has been faid, to five or fix hundred) 
dragged out in cold blood, four days after the French had obtained 
pofpfjion of Jaffa, to the fand hills, about a league diftant, in the way 
to Gaza, and there moll inhumanly put to death. I have feen the 
fkeletons of thefe unfortunate victims, which lie fcattered over the 
hills, a modern Golgotha, which remains a lafting difgrace to a na- 
tion calling itfelf civilized. It would give pleafure to the author of 
this work, as well as to every liberal mind, to hear thefe facts contra- 
dicted on fubftantial evidence. Indeed, I am forry to add, that the 
charge of cruelty againft the French general does not reft here. It 
having been reported that, prcvioufly to the retreat of the French 
army from Syria, their commander in chief had ordered all the 
French fick at Jaffa to be poifoned, I was led to make the enquiry 
to which every one who mould have vifited the fpot would naturally 
have been directed, refpecting an act of fuch fingular, and, it mould 
feem, wanton inhumanity. It concerns me to have to ftate, not 
only that fuch a circumftance was pofitively afterted to have hap- 
pened ; but that, while in Egypt, an individual was pointed out to 
us, as having been the executioner of thefe diabolical commands. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 129 

After the French had retreated from Syria, the Turks filled up the 
breach which had been made, and repaired the wall and other damages. 

Owing to its rocky and fhelving coaft, Jaffa is pretty fecure from 
an attack by fea, which would be rendered extremely hazardous by 
the violence of the furf, and the heavy fwell from the weftward. The 
anchorage off the port is very bad, owing to the extreme unevennefs 
of the ground, which abounds in rocks and Ihoals for a confiderable 
extent of coaft. 

There are at Jaffa two convents, or monafteries, one belonging to 
the Greek, the other to the Latin church. In thefe religious eftab- 
lifhments the pilgrims refide, on their way to Jerufalem, which is 
diftant about twelve leagues, or hours, journey ; but are obliged to 
pay for the hofpitality with which they are welcomed. As well as 
Jerufalem, Jaffa makes a part of Paleftine, or the Holy Land, and is 
the Joppa of the facred writings. The inhabitants, before the place 
fell into the hands of the French, confifted almoft exclufively of Arabs: 
they are now a mixture of Arabs and Turks ; but the former are ftill 
the moft numerous. On the fuccefsful progrefs of the French in 
Syria, the principal and more wealthy of the inhabitants fled to Jeru- 
falem, with their effects and merchandize, in confequence of which 
trade was altogether at a ftand during our ftay there. In times, 
however, of greater tranquillity, its commerce cannot be otherwife 
than flourifhing, fince, independently of the advantages of a fea-port, 
it maintains an intercourfe by land with Damafcus, Jerufalem, and 
feveral other places of no little importance in its vicinity. Its prefent 
population may be eftimated at from one thoufand to fifteen hundred 
fouls. The ftreets are very narrow, uneven, and dirty, and are rather 

s 



i 3 o TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

entitled to the appellation of alleys, than of ftreets. The houfes are 
conftrucled of a white, friable, calcareous ftone, and terraced ; but, 
on the fcore of filth, as well as of want of fpace, many of them are 
little better than pig flies. It is not unufual, indeed, to fee the in- 
mates and the cattle herd together in thefe dwellings. 

On the French entering Jaffa, in the poffeffion of which they re- 
mained during forty days, it underwent a complete pillage, infbmuch 
that the women and female children loft the few ornaments they 
carried about them, and with which they decorated the head, neck, 
and ears. Thefe ornaments were of various defcriptions of coins, fuch 
as paras, fequins, piaftres, &c. The gardens of Jaffa have been long 
celebrated ; but fince the vifit the French paid to that place, and the 
fubfequcnt cantonment of the Turkifh army in its vicinity, they have 
ceafed, in a great meafure, to poffefs the beauties which rendered them 
thus worthy of notice. 

While I am engaged in this defcription of the place, I am induced 
to anticipate the order of the narrative by an obfervation, that Jaffa, 
being the principal depot for the Grand Vizier's army, and the only 
port on the coaft of Syria adapted to the important military fervice in 
which he was engaged, his Highnefs was, from thefe confiderations, 
anxious to give it every poffible fecurity. For this purpofe plans 
were delivered to him by General Koehler, and directions given to 
Lieutenant-colonel Holloway, to carry them into execution. They 
were accordingly in a great meafure completed, when General Moore 
came to our encampment from the Britiih army, under the command 
of Sir Ralph Abercrombie, with the glad tidings of its arrival at 
Marmarice Bay. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. i$i 

A faithful view of the town of Jaffa will be found in Plate VII. 

On the 11th, in the morning, I fet out at fun-rife, in company 
with Signor Bofari, phyfician to the Grand Vizier, to ride through 
the Turkifh encampment : after vifiting every part of which, we 
alighted at the tent of Mohammed Cafhef, a Mameluke chief. We 
were there entertained with fruits, cheefe, pipes, coffee, and other 
refrefhments. In the evening we went to a bath within the camp, 
being the one which was frequented by the Grand Vizier. On our 
entering, the thermometer was at 86 in the made. We remained in 
the apartment of the warm bath half an hour, and went through the 
ufual difcipline of fcrubbing and warning. The heat was very agree- 
able, the thermometer not rifing higher than 104 : my pulfe beat 80 
ilrokes in a minute, and the perfpiration was by no means fo profufe 
as on the former occafion, in the baths of Conftantinople. On our 
return to the outer apartment, which confided of a tent fitted up 
with bedding and other conveniencies, we repofed ourfelves for half 
an hour, during which time we were furnifhed with pipes and coffee. 
We departed, highly refrefhcd by our bath, for which w r c paid each 
two piaflres and a half. It would appear by this recital, that the 
Turks, even when in camp, do not neglect to provide themfelves with 
the luxuries which their domeftic habits have in a manner rendered 
indifpenfable. In a fituation like the above, the fitting up of a warm 
bath, with all the requifites and conveniencies which the Turks require, 
muff have been an undertaking of no eafy accomplifhment. 

About this time feveral of our people were affected with an inflam- 
matory cutaneous eruption, which fpread itfelf over the furface of the 
body and limbs, and produced a very unpleafant fenfation of fmarting 



1 32 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

and itching. It proved to be the prickly heat, by which ftrangers 
are ufually attacked on their coming into a warm climate ; and may, 
perhaps, be afcribed to the check given to the perfpiration, which is 
very profufe during the intenfe heat of the day, by the cool air of the 
mornings and evenings. Volney makes mention of an eruption pecu- 
liar to Egypt, in the months of June and July, which feems to cor- 
refpond with the above-mentioned complaint, and which he afcribes 
to a feparation of vicious humours. 

On the 13th I paid a vifit to Ofman Bey, one of the Mameluke 
chiefs, who was indifpofed ; and alfo, at his requeft, to one of the 
cachefs. I took the precaution to be accompanied by an interpreter. 
Ofman Bey, who was advanced in years, his age bordering on fixty- 
five, appeared not to be ill informed, and was very inquifitive relative 
to the manufactures and commerce of Great Britain. W e had much 
converfation together on a variety of topics. 

During the day time the wind blew from the fouth-weft, from fun- 
rife to fun-fet, when the land breeze came on, and prevailed during 
the night, throughout the whole extent of coaft. This local wind 
extends two or three leagues only at fea, on this account, that the 
air, rarefied by the heat of the day, and afterwards condenfed by the 
cold of the night, rufhes alternately from the land to the fea, and from 
the fea to the land. 

This evening Captain Lacy arrived at the encampment from Con- 
ftantinople, having executed the orders entrufted to him by Lord 
Elgin, in carrying difpatches to the Vizier, &c. 

For a confiderable time there was an utter ftagnation of events 
in the Turkifh camp ; but on the 20th it was very currently reported 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 133 

that the French had reached Catich in great force. In confequence 
of thefe rumours, the erection of feveral new works having been fug- 
gelled to the Grand Vizier, they were immediately commenced, under 
the direction of Lieutenant-colonel Holloway. In the concife defcrip- 
tion I have given of Jaffa, I have already obferved that, as it was 
deemed the moll convenient fea-port on the coaft of Syria for the 
operations of the Ottoman forces, the intention was to convert it into 
a general depot. 

I introduce the following anecdote to evince, among other facls, 
the very unenlightened condition of the Turks, without excepting even 
their principal men, in whatever regards the fciences. General Koehler 
was requefled by the Grand Vizier to have a map of the world fketched 
out for him. This requefl having been complied with, a converfation 
enfued, in which the general, having the plan before him, told his 
Highnefs, among other particulars, that the earth was round. This 
information caufed no fmall degree of furprife to the Turkifh minifter; 
and it appeared, by his reply, that he was difpofed to doubt the truth 
of the affertion. " If," he obferved, fi the earth is round, how can 
" the people, and other detached objects on the half beneath, be pre- 
" vented from falling off?" — When he was told that the earth revolved 
round the fun, he difplayed an equal degree of fcepticifm, obferving, 
that if that was the cafe, the mips bound from Jaffa to Conftantinople, 
inftead of proceeding to that capital, would be carried to London, or 
elfewhere. So much for the agronomical and geographical knowledge 
of a Turkifh ftatefman ! 

On the evening of the 27th, as Mr. Read, the draughtsman, and 
myfelf were returning from a fhort pedeftrian excurfion, we were 



1 34 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

accofted by two Turkifh foldiers ; one of whom, a black, behaved in 
a moft difrefpectful manner, and even threatened our lives. He went 
fo tar, indeed, as to put his hand to his fword ; but, on our affuming 
a bold and fpirited air, he feemed furprifed at our confidence, muttered 
fomething, and allowed us to pafs. 

On the following morning the troops commanded by Mahomed 
Pacha returned to the encampment. They had been fent to Nablous 
to fupprefs an infurrection, faid to be excited by the Pacha of that 
place, who was fufpected of meditating a plan to join the army of 
Dgezar Pacha. This was one of the accounts : but it was faid, on 
the other hand, that the movement of Mahomed Pacha had for its 
object the laying of the Pacha of Nablous under contribution, and ex- 
torting from him a fum of money. Be this as it may, the affair was 
amicably fettled. 

The Janiffary Aga had this day a converfation with General Koehler, 
in which he warned the Britim officers not to w 7 alk fingly in the camp, 
as in fuch a cafe he could not be anfwerable for the conduct of his 
people. He therefore recommended to us to be conftantly accompa- 
nied by a Janiffary, as a guard. This circumftance is mentioned to 
evince the peculiar and very delicate fituation in which we were 
placed among the Turkifh troops. 

On the 3 iff the Kallcm Bafhi, the officer who has the charge of 
the Vizier's writing implements, &c. was found murdered in the 
camp. 

On the 2d of Auguft the New Adventure tranfport arrived from 
Cyprus, which place Ihe had left fourteen days before, having been 
fwept by the currents towards Alexandretta. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 135 

In the evening I rode through the gardens of Jaffa, where I faw a 
great abundance of prickly pear-trees, which are employed as fences, 
and are admirably well adapted to that purpofe. The natives are very 
fond of the fruit. The grapes were ripened, and were, as well as the 
figs, of an excellent quality. With refpect to the water-melons, they 
were fo large, that at dinner, fome days before, one was brought to us 
which weighed twenty-five pounds. 

A party of Turkifh foldiers, confifting of about three hundred, left 
the camp on the morning of the 3d, for El-Arifh ; and, in the even- 
ing, Mahomed Pacha, with two thoufand men, fet off for the fame 
deftination. 

A confiderable reinforcement of troops from the eaftward reached 
the camp on the 5th ; and in the evening we were informed, that 
feveral laden camels, with their attendants, had come in from Grand 
Cairo. 

On the morning of the 6th, Captain Lacy, of the royal engineers, 
fet off for El-Arifh, mounted on a hedjin, or dromedary, as were alfo 
the perfons who accompanied him. On the following day, Mr. 
Whiteman embarked on board the New Adventure tranfport, bound 
to Cyprus. He was the bearer of difpatches for Lords Elgin and 
Grenville, which were to be forwarded to their reipeclive deftinations 
by the Britifh conful at Larnica. The tranfport did not, however, 
fail until the gth, at two in the morning, when fhe took the advan- 
tage of the land breeze, which generally prevails at that early part of 
the day. 

At the fame time fix hundred Albanians left the camp for El-Arifh. 
I made an excurfion, in the evening, to the fand hills (fituated near 



136 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

the fea-fide, and about three miles diftant from the encampment), the 
fcene of the horrid maffacre of the captured Turks and Chriftians, by 
the order of the French commander in chief, Bonaparte, fome days 
after he had taken poffeffion of Jaffa. I have already touched on this 
act, fo inglorious to its perpetrator, in the account I have given of that 
place ; and I mall add here, that the diftance of time which elapfed 
after thefe poor wretches had furrendered, and which furnifhed a fit 
opportunity for cool reflection, and the diftance of the fpot to which 
they were led, at leaft a league from the place of their captivity, ma- 
nifeft a fpirit of diabolical revenge, of atrocious tyranny, which, for 
the honour of human nature, it is to be trufted will never recur on any 
future occafion, among civilized and enlightened nations, to blacken 
the page of hiftoty, and to fully the military character. The furface 
of the ground had been fome time before thickly covered with the 
fkelctons of the victims ; but at the time of my yifit they were much 
reduced in number, the Grand Vizier having ordered a large hole to 
be dug, into which as many as could be well collected were thrown. 
Skulls, bones, remnants of clothing, &c. &c. were ftill, notwithftand- 
ing, fcattered over every part of the hillocks. 

In confequence of an invitation from the Grand Vizier to General 
Koehler and officers, to be fpectators of the Ikill and dexterity of the 
Turkim foldiers in the ufe of their fabres, we affembled, on the 1 1th, 
in front of his Highnefs's tent. 

A caouk, or turban, being placed on a ftool, the Turks cut at it 
with their fabres. Thofe who made the deepeft cuts were immedi- 
ately rewarded with feveral fequins, which they received from the 
hands of the Vizier. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 137 

As the turban was compofed of a mixture of wool and cotton, 
covered over with thick cloth, it required no little adroitnefs and dex- 
terity to penetrate into its fubftance by a blow of the fabre. Such, 
however, was the effect of practice, that the impreffions made by the 
Turkilh foldiers were very deep. 

Letters were received on the ] 3th from Captain Lacy, who was 
arrived at El-Arifli, and had experienced a flattering reception. In 
the evening I took a ride along the fea-fide, and faw feveral jackals, 
which abound in this part of the world. 

On the 14th the Turks began to dig in the environs of Jaffa, to 
prepare the ground for the erection of feveral works for the better de- 
fence of the place, under the direction of Colonel Holloway. It was 
at this time reported, that the plague raged with great violence 
among the Mamelukes, in confequence of which ftrict orders were 
given by the general to avoid all communication with them. Mon- 
fieur Franchini, a Ruffian agent, lay dangeroufly ill of the plague at 
Jaffa. 

In the courfe of the night we were much alarmed by the circum- 
ftance of a ftranger having found his way into our tent. On calling 
to the centinel, we found, after a little fearch, that our unfeafonable 
vifitor was a poor infane Turk, who had been purfued by one of his 
countrymen from the camp, and had fought refuge in the tent. 

Monfieur Franchini died on the 15th at night. He had been fent 
by the Ruffian minilter at Conltantinople as an agent to keep up a 
communication with the Turkilh minifters in camp, and to give an 
account of the military operations. He had caught the peftilential 
infection from two domeftics belonging to the Vizier's new dragoman, 

T 



i 3 3 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

who were recently arrived from Constantinople, and both of whom 
had fallen viclims to the difeafe. Monfieur Franchini languifhed fix 
days after the attack. 

On the morning of the 1 / th two hundred Janiffaries arrived in the 
camp from Conflantinople. . In making an excurfion towards Gaza in 
the afternoon, I met with the body of an unfortunate man, who had 
juft been affaffinated. He had received two ftrokes of a fabre, one 
of which had nearly fevered the head from the body. His turban had 
been carried off ; but the flick which lay behind, and the fryle of his 
drefs, pointed him out as a wandering Arab. 

On the 18th in the morning, General Koehler and the officers went 
to a plain in the vicinity of the encampment, to be prefent at a re- 
view of the Turkifh troops by his Highnefs the Grand Vizier. Ad- 
joining to his own tent, which, being fitted up in the oriental, or 
Perfian flyle, far exceeded, in richnefs and magnificence, any thing 
we had feen before, a tent was prepared for our reception. The in- 
fantry and artillery were drawn up in three bodies, that is, a main 
body and two wings, nearly in a line, with the guns in front. While 
the whole advanced flowly, a firing was kept up exclufively by the 
artillery ; and the movement having been continued for the fpace of fix 
or fevcn hundred yards, the troops faced to the right about, when, the 
guns being again brought to their front, they returned to their former 
ground, firing in the fame manner as when they advanced. This 
abfurd manoeuvre was the only one they difplayed. During the whole 
of the time the infantry remained with their arms mouldered, the 
Arnauts or Albanians fhouting. In returning, the Grand Vizier was 
mounted on a fine Arabian horfe, richly caparifoncd. His Highnefs 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 139 

was elegantly dreffed, as were alfo his principal officers and attendants. 
We were invited to join in the cavalcade, on its way back to the 
encampment. 

About this time, in a converfation with our officers, the Grand 
Vizier, in fpeaking of the convention of El-Arim, compared what 
had been done on that occafion to a phyfician, who, having given to 
his patient a dofe of medicine by which he was relieved, adminiftered 
to him an after dofe, which rendered him worfe than he was at firft. 

We were informed that the plague continued to rage with great 
violence among the Mamelukes, infomuch that on the preceding 
day, the 17 th, one of their cachefs, or chiefs, had loft eighteen of his 
men. There were at that time about fixteen hundred Mameluke 
troops in the camp. 

A gun- boat belonging to Sir Sydney Smith's fquadron arrived on 
the afternoon of the 20th from Alexandria, with difpatches from Sir 
Sydney and the Capitan Pacha to the Vizier and General. Through 
this channel we were informed, that the Mercury, an Englifh frigate of 
twenty-eight guns, commanded by Captain Rogers, was to be daily 
expected at Jaffa. 

Mr. Reynolds, commanding the gun-boat, and Mr. Spilfbury, the 
furgeon, dined with us at the camp on the 22d. The latter defcribed 
the twelve cafes of plague which he had feen on board Le Tigre, in 
the courfe of the laft year, while that fhip was off Acre. Major Fead, 
he told me, had, before his death, all the fymptoms of yellow fever. 
In general, the fubjecis who were attacked were of a robuft tempera- 
ment ; and, among the predifpofing caufes, were to be reckoned the 
abufe of fpirituous liquors, and more eipecially, the dread and apprelien- 

t 2 



i 4 o TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

Jton of the plague. Mr. Spilfbury laid much ftrefs on the latter of 
thefe caufes, giving it as his decided opinion, that the death of Colonel 
Philipoe, who conftantly laboured under the moft alarming apprehen- 
fions of an attack of that difeafe, was entirely owing to the anxiety 
with which his mind was tortured by thefe diftreffing fears. 

Two men were beheaded at Jaffa on the 23d, for felling fpirits and 
wine to the troops. 

Within the laft two days feveral of our men, who had imprudently 
left off their flannel drefTes, were attacked by fymptoms of fever arifing 
from obftrucled perfpiration. The evenings had latterly been cool 
and damp, with confiderable falls of dew. The plague continued to 
make great ravages among the Mamelukes, who had, according to 
report, loft four hundred men, nearly the fourth of their whole 
number. 

The gun-boat, commanded by Mr. Reynolds, left Jaffa on the 24th. 
She was to proceed to Acre, and thence to Cyprus, and, laftly, was 
to join le Tigre, at that time cruifing off Cape Baffa. Another of 
our gun-boats, the Mary Ann, had, we were informed, been loft on 
the rocks near Larnica. 

On the 25th, Mahmoud Raif, the newly appointed Reis Effendi, 
arrived at the camp from Conftantinople, which place he had left 
eighteen days before. 

I made one of a party in an afternoon's ride to two Arab villages, 
the houfes of which were built with mud, ftones, and chopped ftraw. 
The women were covered by a thin loofe drefs of blue cotton, and 
wore over the face a black veil, which, on the whole, rendered their 
appearance, to us at leaft, very difgufting. They are employed in 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 141 

the moll: common drudgeries ; and carry on their heads, in white 
earthen veffels, honey, milk, and frelh water. They are the only 
women who are allowed to come into the Turkilh camp. 

On our return towards the camp we faw feveral gazelles, or ante- 
lopes, which we purfued, without being, however, able to overtake 
them. To efTedt this would have required the aid of dogs. We were, 
notwithstanding, told, that inflances had occurred, in which the Arabs, 
mounted on their fleet horfes, had kept pace with thefe animals, and 
had fucceeded in catching them, by darting a {tick between their legs, 
and thus impeding their flight. 

About fifteen hundred cavalry arrived on the 26th from Konieh. 
Their complexion was very dark, and their drefs lingular. They 
were well mounted ; and in general tall and perfonable men. 

On the 27th, Mr. Vinchenzo, our dragoman, or interpreter, was 
taken fuddenly ill with fymptoms of fever. As he had had occafional 
intereourie with the Mamelukes, among whom a great mortality Hill 
prevailed ; and as his complaint bore a very unfavourable afpeel, the 
general, with great prudence, ordered him to be fent to the town on 
the following day. 

On the morning of the 28th, the officers of the million accompa- 
nied the general on a vifit to the new Reis Effendi. I have already 
given a {ketch of his character, in rpeaking of the principal officers in 
the Turkim camp. He is certainly far fuperior to the Turks in ge- 
neral, both in manners and intelligence ; and this may be afcribed to 
his having feen and mixed with fociety in various parts of Europe. 
His appearance indicated a lively and cheerful difpofition. In /peaking 



i.p TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

of the plague, which was entirely confined to the Mamelukes, he ob- 
ferved, that the feafon for it was juft paffed, fince on the 16th of Au- 
guft, old ftyle (the preceding day), it was generally confidered that, 
in the diftricls where it had made its appearance, its ravages would 
ceafc. — He feemed to entertain a great partiality for the Englifh na- 
tion ; and mewed us an Engliih fabre and a pair of piftols which he 
had purchafed in London. The latter were made by Bennett near 
the Royal Exchange. 

On the 30th, his Highnefs the Grand Vizier went in ftate to lay 
the firft ftone of the intended new baflion. He was met on the 
ground by the million ; and in the vicinity of the work, tents were 
pitched for the reception of his Highnefs and the officers. After 
having taken coffee and other refrefhments, he proceeded with great 
pomp to the foundations, which had been dug out. A prayer having 
been repeated with much folemnity by one of the Turkilh priefts, 
accompanied by the Vizier himfelf, as well as by all the officers of 
ftate and other Muffulmen prefent, the ftone was laid, and a fmall 
mallet, covered with velvet, handed to his Highnefs. With this 
mallet he ftruck the ftone three times, repeating folemnly a fhort 
prayer. In this ceremony he was followed by each of the officers of 
ftate and attendants, at the fame time that feveral fheep were facri- 
ficed. The ftone having been fprinkled with the blood of thefe ani- 
mals, was covered over with a plate of copper on which an infeription 
had been engraven. This ceremony being concluded, the whole of 
the company returned to the tents, where the general, and Lieutenant- 
colonel Holloway, commanding the royal engineers, were inverted 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 143 

by the Grand Vizier with pelices ; and Major Fletcher with a be- 
niche, or robe of honour. On this occafion a vaft concourfe of people, 
were affembled. 

On the morning of this day the tranfport arrived from Larnica, 
whither fhe had been difpatched on fervice. Several of the women 
on board laboured under an eryfipelatous inflammation of the eyes, 
which had attacked them fuddenly, while at Larnica, without any 
previous indlfpofition. The children alfo had a fimilar afFeclion of 
the eyes; but it had not manifefted itfelf on any of the feamen. 

A corps of Albanians, confuting of about one thoufand, left the 
camp on the evening of the 31 ft for El-Arifh. The departure of 
troops from the Turkifh encampment was, as well as their arrival, 
cuftomarily announced by the difcharge of mufkets loaded with balls, 
which, flying at random in every direction, endangered the lives of all 
thofe who were within their reach. This practice of firing with bul- 
lets, which is followed in every Turkifh camp, was indeed become fo 
frequent, that we were under conftant apprehenfions of being mot. 
Our tents were repeatedly pierced by the balls ; and one of our men, 
an armourer, was, while at work in our camp, wounded in the fhoul- 
der by a mufket ball. The Turkifli foldiers, who furnifli their own 
ammunition at all times, except on the day of battle, when it is pro- 
vided for them, conceive they have a right to amufe themfelves in 
this manner, at their private expenfe. 

On the lft of September I received a letter from Captain Lacy, of 
the royal engineers, dated at the camp of El-Arifh, the 2Qth of 
Auguft, in which he informed me, that during the preceding ten days 
he had, as well as his fervant, fuffered feverely from a dyfenteric com- 



144 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

plaint. I flated to the general, by letter, my opinion of the necefiity 
of having him removed to Jaffa ; and in confequence of this reprefen- 
tation, Major Fletcher embarked on board the tranfport on the 3d, to 
proceed to El-Arifh, and relieve the above officer in his duty. 

I had caught fcveral camelions, one of which was found dead in its 
cage. Being defirous to know the caufe of its death, I dhTecled it, 
and, on opening the interline, found withinfide a portion of a fmall 
twig, about an inch in length ; and, a little farther downwards, a de- 
licate white round worm, nearly four inches in length, which was 
alive. I was much pleafed with the fingular conformation of this 
little animal, from the mouth of which I drew a white tender fub- 
ftance, between five and fix inches in length, and of the thicknefs of 
a goofe quill. Having an increafed width at its extremity, it had 
fomewhat the appearance of an inverted cone, and was filled with an 
extremely vifcid and tenacious whitifh fluid. This defcription of 
tongue, or weapon, as it may be more properly termed, nature has 
fupplied to the animal to enable it to feize on its prey. I had repeat- 
edly obferved my camelions dart it forth fuddenly, to the diflance of 
five or fix inches, and in this manner catch flies with an equal promp- 
titude and certainty. The vifcid and tenacious quality of the fluid 
fafficiently explains its ufc. By applying the point of a probe dipped 
in it to the bodies of flies, I detained them for fome time. The pulpy 
fubflance of which the dart, or tongue, is compofed, is projected for- 
wards by a triangular cartilaginous ring, to which it is attached, and 
which is fcated at the posterior part of the mouth. This cartilage is 
compofed of rings, like the trachea in animals. 

The capacious lungs arc compofed of a number of fmall and delicate 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. HS 

cells, tinged of a fine crimfon colour. On cutting into the heart, 
the blood ifTued, but of a darker colour than that contained in the 
delicate pulmonary cells. The liver, which was of a darkifh hue, 
was fomewhat large in proportion to the fize of the animal ; and 
the gall bladder was filled with bile of a dark green colour. Only 
one common ftraight gut was perceptible. Several fmall round fub- 
ftances, nearly of the fize of a vetch, and of a deep yellow colour, 
lay connected together in the lower part of the abdomen; as did 
alfo two lobes, fimilar to the lungs of an animal. Thefe were likewife 
of a deep yellow, or orange- colour, and were nearly of the fize of a 
fmall Windfor bean. It is evident, from this account of the con- 
formation of the animal, that thofe who cherifhed the old error of 
its exifting upon air, muft have been very inaccurate obfervers. 

The camelions were very numerous in the camp, and frequently 
entered the tents in fearch of their prey. 

We were informed on the 5 th, by our dragoman, that the Mame- 
lukes encamped at Jaffa had loft about eight hundred men, either 
by the plague or by defertion ; and that the greater part of thofe 
commanded by Ibrahim Bey had fallen victims to difeafe. On 
the following day we were thrown into a confiderable degree of 
alarm by a report made by another of the dragomen, or interpreters, 
who told us, that he had difcovered the feh (groom) leading a pefti- 
ferous fubject into our camp. This information proved to be well 
founded ; and the fubject in queftion was inftantly removed. 

A detachment of Arnauts, about a thoufand in number, joined 
the camp on the 7th, having been conveyed to Jaffa by fea. Reports 

u 



u6 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

were in circulation that the French had landed new reinforcements 

of troops in Egypt. 

The tranfport, having on board Captain Lacy, who was fomewhat 
recovered from his indifpofition, returned to Jaffa on the 8th. She 
brought intelligence that it was the determination of the Capitan 
Pacha, and of Sir Sydney Smith, to renew the blockade of Alex- 
andria. 

On the ] Oth, a letter, dated at El-Arifh, was received from Major 
Fletcher, who had had an attack of fever, and was dangeroufly ill. 
The tranfport w T as in confequence ordered to proceed to El-Arim, 
to bring him back. About this time Ofman Bey, a Mameluke 
chief, died of the plague at Jaffa ; as did alfo Yuzef Pacha, one of 
the cachefs. 

Difpatches from Lord Elgin were received by the general on the 
13th ; and on the following morning the Englifh frigate the Mer- 
cury anchored off" Jaffa. She had left England about four months, 
had touched at Tripoli, and feveral other ports of the Mediterranean, 
and was laft from Acre, which place fhe had quitted the evening 
before. Advices were brought to camp that Djezar Pacha was em- 
ployed in fortifying the works of Acre. 

On the evening of the 18th the Mercury frigate failed from Jaffa, 
having on board difpatches of great importance. The news of the 
furrender of the ifland of Malta to the Britifh troops, tranfmitted by 
the Capitan Pacha, were communicated to the general by the Grand 
Vizier and Iieis EfTcndi. 

On the 20th in the morning, a detachment of troops, confifting 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 147 

of about a thoufand horfemen, arrived in the camp from Aleppo, 
chaunting hymns on their route. They were better mounted and 
equipped than any of thofe who had recently joined the Vizier's 
army. 

A heavy firing was heard in the camp on the morning of the 25th. 
We found, on enquiry, that it was occafioned by the difpleafure of 
the Arnauts, who had become greatly exafperated at an attempt 
which was made to mufter them. The Grand Vizier entertained 
a fufpicion that their chiefs drew a greater number of rations for 
their troops than thofe to which they were entitled. It indeed ap- 
peared that this practice was become fo frequent among them as to 
require an abfolute check ; but fuch was the menacing afpect which 
the Arnauts had afTumed, that his Highnefs deemed it prudent to 
relinquifh this meafure on the prefent occafion. I mail take an op- 
portunity hereafter to give a particular account of thefe people, who 
were able to render themfelves thus formidable, notwithstanding 
they conftituted but an inconfiderable part of the Turkifh army. 

About this time we were highly amufed by feveral Egyptian jug- 
glers, who came into camp, and who, to our no fmall furprife, per- 
formed a variety of tricks with great neatnefs and dexterity. Thefe 
people travel through every part of the country, and contribute ef- 
fentially to the entertainment of the inhabitants. 
. A great number of jackals came almoft every evening into the 
camp, in fearch of their prey, and kept up a continued yell, equal to 
that of a large pack of hounds in full cry, though much lefs mufical. 
What with the yelping of thefe animals, the howling of the dogs, 
.and the braying of the aiTes and mules, a hideous noife was produced, 

U 2 



i 4 8 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

■which we fhould have deemed incredible, if it had not conftantly 
aflailed our aftonifhed ears. 

A Turkifh camp, in which the carcaffes of horfes, camels, affes, 
and mules, lay fcattered in great abundance, muft have furnifhed a 
high treat to the voracious jackals, who could not fail to find there 
whatever was requiflte to appeafe their hunger. They infeft every 
part of Syria, where they are very numerous. During the day they 
confine themfelves to their holes and lurking places ; but fally out at 
night, in large bodies, in fearch of their food. They then rendez- 
vous in the neighbourhood of the towns and villages, molefting the 
inhabitants by the moft difagreeable of all howlings. They feed 
with complacency on the moft filthy and odious fubftances ; and 
their cruelty, in the warfare they carry on againft other animals, is 
equal to their rapacity. 

On the ] ft of October feveral difcharges of mufketry were heard 
clofe to our camp, and furnifhed a new evidence of the undifciplined 
ftate of the Turkifh troops, who had been difputing among them- 
felves, and had proceeded to extremities. This event, which hap- 
pened fo near to us, excited in us a confiderable degree of apprehen- 
fion, as well as of furprife. 

Nearly five hundred Arnauts having deferted from the camp on 
the 4th, the Vizier difpatched in their purfuit two thoufand Dehlis, 
who returned, however, without having accomplifhed their object. 

In a Turkifh army, the Dehlis, whofe name implies defperadoes, 
or madmen, form a part of the light cavalry. They boaft, not with- 
out reafon, of their courage and temerity ; and are faid to feel no 
hefitation in undertaking the moft daring enterprifes. They are 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. i 49 

armed and equipped nearly in the fame manner as the other Turkifli 
military, with the exception, that they wear a very high cap of a 
cylindrical form, made of pafteboard, and covered either with fheep- 
fkin died of a black colour, or with black cloth. This cap is fecured 
to the head by a coloured muflin or cotton handkerchief. One of 
thefe horfemen, accoutered and equipped for fervice, is reprefented 
in Plate VIII. 

About this time Lieutenant- colonel Holloway and Major Hope 
were reflectively requefted by the mikmendar attached to the mif- 
fion, to give orders to their men not to fmoke in paffing the tent of 
the Grand Vizier, left they mould be infulted by the Turkifti mili- 
tary, contrary to whofe cuftom this practice was. A caution, founded 
on fo prudential a motive, was, it may naturally be fuppofed, not 
neglected. 

On the 7th Mahomed Pacha reached the camp from Ramla, 
with troops, by whom the ufual difcharges of mufketry were made 
on entering the ground ; and on the 14th Haifan Bey Djadavi quit- 
ted the camp for El-Arilh, with a corps of five hundred Mamelukes. 

Here my narrative is about to take a new turn. A vifit to Jeru- 
falem, and other parts of the Holy Land, had been for fome time 
projected ; and the ftate of inaction in which we found ourfelves at 
this juncture prompted us to gratify our ardent curiofity, by the ac- 
complifhment of fuch a journey, the particulars of which I ihall 
now proceed to detail. 



TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 



CHAPTER IX. 

PROGRESS THROUGH THE HOLY LAND RUINS OP A TOWER ERECTED IN 

HONOUR OP FORTY MARTYRS ARABIAN DWELLINGS — RAMLA — DATE- 
TREES — OPHTHALMIA RESIDENCE OF THE JEWISH MONARCHS ST. JE- 

ROM ARRIVAL AT JERUSALEM SITUATION OF THAT CITY SOLOMON'S 

TEMPLE — RESIDENCE OF PONTIUS PILATE EXTRAORDINARY THREAT 

OP BONAPARTE MOUNT OF OLIVES DAVID'S TOWER HOLY SEPUL- 
CHRE SCENE OF OUR SAVIOUR'S SUFFERINGS TOMB OF BALDWIN 

HUMANITY AND GOOD SENSE OF A TURKISH SANTON VISIT FROM THE 

MUFTI ARMENIAN CONVENT HEAD OF ST. JAMES MOUNT SION 

BETHLEM TEMPLE OF ST. CATHARINE POOLS OF SOLOMON GAR- 
DENS OF SOLOMON BIRTH-PLACE OF OUR SAVIOUR RECEPTACLE OF 

THE MURDERED INNOCENTS TOMB OF ST. JEROM CONVENT OF ST. 

CATHARINE INHABITANTS OF BETHLEM SEPULCHRES OF THE KINGS 

SEPULCHRE OF THE VIRGIN MARY— VALLEY OP JEHOSAPHAT IM- 
PRESSION OF OUR SAVIOUR'S FOOT ON THE MOUNT OF OLIVES TOMBS 

OF ABSALOM AND ZECHARIAH WELLS OF NEHEMIAH BURIAL-PLACE 

OF KING DAVID CONVENT OF ST. HELENA BIRTH-PLACE OF JOHN 

THE BAPTIST JOSEPH OF ARIMATHEA TOPOGRAPHICAL ACCOUNT OF 

THE MOST INTERESTING OBJECTS IN THE HOLY LAND. 

the morning of the 15th of October, before break of day, we 
left the camp on our way to Jerufalem. Our party confifted 
of the general and Mrs.. Koehler, Major Hope, Captain Leake, 
Meff. Chandler, Whiteman, Pink, and myfelf. We were accompa- 
nied by the choarbagi, a party of Janiflaries, a fmall detachment of 
Turkifh horfemen, and other guards and attendants. After a very 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 151 

agreeable ride of three hours, we arrived at Ramla, within a quarter 
of a mile of which we met with a large ruin, having a fquare fteeple, 
and a gallery above, in afcending to which we counted an hundred 
and twelve fteps. It is faid that it was formerly much loftier than it 
is at prefcnt, and was erected in honour of the forty martyrs who 
fuffered death in Armenia. In our route from this place, we paffed 
through feveral Arab villages, while others were fcattered to the 
right and left. In thefe villages the caves or dwellings were con- 
tracted of ftones and mud, ill compacted together, and of a round 
form, refembling that of a bee-hive, with a fmall hole for the en- 
trance, which ferved at the fame time to admit the air, and to 
afford a pafTage to the fmoke. The roofs of thefe dwellings, in 
which, wretched as they were, the Arab cultivators were condemned 
to pafs their lives, were formed of bullies, ftraw, and other fimilar 
materials, covered with mud. 

We took up our abode for the remainder of the day, and for the 
night, in the Latin convent at Ramla. The country in the vicinity 
of this convent, a plain of feveral miles in extent, is extremely fertile, 
and, if it was well cultivated, would arTord, independently of a rich 
pafturage for cattle, an abundance of grain ; — I might indeed fay of 
all that is neceffary for the fupport of man. Within the town, the 
houfes are built of flone, and are provided with domes and terraces. 
Notwithftanding, at the time of our vifit, many of them were, from 
the ftate cf the country, unoccupied, they exhibited in general a 
much more refpectable appearance than thofe of Jaffa. Prior to the 
war, there was in this place an extenfive foap manufactory ; but the 
building in which it had been carried on, having been fmce de- 



I5 2 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

ferted, had fallen in ruins. We were informed on our arrival that 
Mahomed Pacha had reached Ramla the preceding evening. 

The choice of the Arabs, in erecting their buildings, and in form- 
ing themfelves into a congregated fociety, appears to have been con- 
ftantly directed to an elevated fituation, in contradiftinction to the 
ancient practice in Europe, where it has been remarked, that the 
vallies and low grounds have been generally felected for the fite of 
the towns and villages. This remark particularly applies to the more 
northern parts of Europe, where, in addition to the convenience of 
procuring a better fupply of water, a flielter from the inclement 
winds was to be defired. In the burning clime of Afia, on the other 
hand, every breeze was to be courted ; and this may perhaps explain 
the motive by which the Arabs were originally influenced in the 
pofition of their towns. That of Ramla is fituated on a rifing ground, 
commanding a very extenfive view of the level, open country, by 
which it is furrounded on all fides. 

As we had brought with us our own bedding, and other conve- 
niencies, we were foon fettled in the convent, which afforded us 
nothing but the bare walls; and having procured proviuons, the 
cook whom we had taken the precaution to bring with us, began 
his operations, and foon fupplicd us with a good dinner. After hav- 
ing taken this refrefhment, we went into the town, and faw the 
female inhabitants bufied in making a kind of cotton cloth for their 
garments. We next proceeded to the bazar, or market, which was 
but indifferently fupplicd with a few fruits and vegetables, fuch as 
dates, figs, lemons, cucumbers, &c. We obferved feveral date-trees, 
with fruit on them, diftributcd among the buildings; and their 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 153 

appearance, thus blended as they were with the houfes, was extremely 
picturefque. Without the town we noticed a fmall pottery for the 
fabrication of vafes to hold water. Ramla was anciently a city, but 
is now an open town only, under the government of the Pacha of 
Jerufalem and Gaza, Mahomed Pacha. 

In this place the minarets of the mofques differ very effentially 
from all thofe we had before noticed. It contains three convents 
for the reception of the pilgrims on their way to the holy city. 

It was painful to me to obferve that the difeafe of the eyes, fo 
common in thefe countries, prevailed very generally, and that with 
great violence, among the poorer claffes at Kamla. Both young and 
old were alike afflicted by blindnefs. This was not furprifmg, fmce 
it was eaiy to trace in their fqualid and meagre countenances the 
manifeft caufes of difeafe, namely, the want of a good, nourifhing diet, 
and the neceflary clothing to encourage and keep up the excretions of 
the fkin. The drefs of the females confirmed of a blue cotton chemife 
only, refembling the frock of an Englifh peafant, and reaching nearly 
to the ankles, with a broad belt, or girdle, fattened about the waift. 
The men were dreffed in a fimilar manner, but with a white inftead 
of a blue chemife, and were for the greater part without Ihoes. 

In the evening we paid a vifit to Mahomed Pacha, a great fa- 
vourite of the Vizier, and very ufeful to him in the country, as a 
collector of the tributes. His reception was of the moft friendly 
kind ; and he offered us every affiftance on our route, promifmg to 
fend forward a meffenger, to give notice, at the places through whi ch 
we were to pafs, of our approach, together with fuch orders as might 
facilitate our views. After having taken the refrefhments which 

x 



i 5 4 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

were prefented to us, we returned to the convent, where the general 
gave us notice to be in readinefs to fet forward on the following 
morning at day-break. 

We accordingly left Ramla at five in the morning of the lOth, 
and, after a ride of three hours over the plain, came to an Arab vil- 
lage, named Caifla, where St. James was decapitated. In this village 
we faw the method employed by the Arabs to preferve their corn 
from pillage and fire. It confifts in digging deep pits, fimilar to 
wells, in which the corn is ftored up, as in a granary. Having 
breakfafted, we again fet forward on our journey about nine o'clock, 
palling through a plain, near to which was a village, called Latrun, 
faid to have been once the refidence of the kings of the Jews. To 
the left of the village the ruins of a building were pointed out to us, 
which we were told was anciently a palace. We Ihortly after 
entered on a rocky and almoft impenetrable road, over a moun- 
tainous territory, which continued, with little variation, until our 
arrival at Jerufalem, a diftance of twenty-five miles. The fafety 
and comparative facility with which the horfes made good their 
way through this difficult road, filled with rocks and precipices, were 
truly furprifing : not the fmalleft accident occurred. At one o'clock 
we came to an Arab village, named St. Jerom, diftant from Jeru- 
falem three hours journey. We there made a halt of an hour and 
a half, and faw a lofty building, fupported by beautiful pillars, for- 
merly a Chriftian church, faid to have been built by the Emprefs 
Helena, but now converted into a receptacle for cattle. We traced 
on- the walls the vcftiges of feveral fine paintings of fcriptural fub- 
jccls; and afterwards entered an arched cavity underneath, in which, 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 1 55 

according to every probability, the dead had been depofited. We 
left the village at half paft two, and were met foon after by a party 
of priefb belonging to the Greek convent at Jerufalem, who were on 
their way to Ramla, in obedience to a mandate of Mahomed Pacha, 
but on what occaiion we were not informed. 

On our approaching Jerufalem, we were met by the Mufelem, or 
Turkifh governor, and by the fuperior of the Latin convent, in 
which we were to take up our abode. They had come out with 
their attendants, to compliment us on our arrival, and conduct us to 
the city, which we reached at about half paft five o'clock. For a 
confiderable diftance the road was occupied by great numbers of the 
inhabitants, who had come out to meet us ; and the ftreets were 
thronged in our paffage through. So great was the curiofity which 
the arrival of Chriftian vifitors had excited ! 

To the very gates of Jerufalem the land exhibited the fame rocky 
and barren appearance it had affumed on our entering the moun- 
tainous territory. The city itfelf ftands on an elevated rocky ground 
capable of yielding but little produce: in the vicinity, however, we 
faw feveral fpots, which the inhabitants had with great induftry fer- 
tilized, by clearing away the ftones, with which they had banked up 
the foil to prevent it from being warned away, and by reforting to 
every other expedient which could fuggeft itfelf. 

This foil, which is a reddifh clay, wherever it is of any depth, is 
efiTentially of a good quality ; confequently their laborious efforts had 
been rewarded, in thefe partial and chofen fpots, by an abundant 
produce of fruits, corn, and vegetables. The grapes which were 
prefented to us at our repafts, were uncommonly fine and large : at 

X 2 



156 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

the feafon of the vintage the vineyards muft have had a pleaflng 
afpect in this land of rocks and mountains. 

Shortly after our arrival, the governor paid a formal vifit to the 
general and officers, in the courfe of which he tendered to us every 
poffible affiftance during our flay at Jerufalem. In company with 
three of my fellow travellers, I took up my abode in the Latin con- 
vent ; while the general, Mrs. Koehler, and the two other gentle- 
men, eftablifhed their refidence at a houfe in the vicinity. . 

On the following morning, after breakfaft, we returned the gover- 
nor's vifit, and were entertained with coffee, fweetmeats, and other 
refrefhments. From one of the windows of his houfe we had a very 
pleafing view of a Turkifh mofque, built on the foundations of 
Solomon's temple. Chriflians are prohibited from entering this 
mofque, in confequence of a fuperffcitious opinion entertained by the 
Turks, that if any one of them mould fet his foot on the confecrated 
ground on which it ftands, the Turkifh empire would inftantly be 
at an end. 

On the fpot where the governor refided, it is reported that Pontius 
Pilate dwelt ; and it was there, according to traditional accounts, 
that Peter denied Chrift.* 

Soon after our return to the general's apartment, the patriarch of 
the Greek church, and two Armenian bifhops, attended by feveral 

* To prevent a repetition of the words, <c it is faid " according to traditional 
" accounts," &c. I mall in future give the reports relative to the paflages of fcripture 
to which fuch and fuch fpots in the Holy Land refer, as they were made to us, leaving 
to my readers the conclufions as to the greater or lefs probability of the accordance of 
the traditions faid to have been handed down, with the events they are intended to 
illultrate. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 1 57 

priefts, paid us a vifit, and promifed us every attention and kindnefs 
during our flay in Jerufalem. The patriarch informed us, that the 
fix priefts we had met on our route, and who were on their way to 
Ramla, had been conftrained to undertake that journey by Mahomed 
Pacha. As he could not explain to himfelf why they had been thus 
forced away, he appeared extremely anxious about them, and begged 
the general to intereft himfelf in their behalf. In the inquiries he 
addreffed to us, he was defirous to know which of the three cities, 
Jerufalem, Babylon, or Rome, was the moll: ancient. 

We were told by the priefts of an extraordinary threat made by 
Bonaparte, namely, that fhould he ever obtain poffeffion of Jerufalem, 
he would plant the tree of liberty on the fpot on which the crofs of 
Jefus ftood ; and would bury the firft French grenadier who mould 
fall in the attack, in the tomb of our Saviour. 

From the terrace of the convent in which we were lodged we had 
a fine view of the Mount of Olives, of Mount Sion, and indeed of 
every part of the city, the extent of which has been fo much dimi- 
nilhed in modern times, that the circumference is reckoned not to 
exceed four Englifh miles. The walls and habitations are in excel- 
lent repair ; and the former are provided with -feveral fmall fquare 
towers. Near the entrance gate is a caftle denominated David's 
tower, the ftones in the inferior part of which are very maffive, and 
apparently of great antiquity. 

About two o'clock we went to the church called the church of the 
fepulchre, as being built over the holy fepulchre, in company with the 
fuperior of our convent, w ith whom, I mould obferve, we had made 
an arrangement to vifit Bethlem on the following morning. Efcorted 



1 58 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

by feveral of the reverend fathers, we parTed through a folemn and 
grand entrance, into a lofty and capacious building (fomewhat lefs 
than an hundred paces long, and not more than fixty wide), fupported 
by feveral very large marble pillars of the Corinthian order, and the 
dome of which was built of the cedar of Lebanon. Preparations hav- 
ing been made for our vifit to this fanctuary, it was lighted up with 
more than ufual fplendour, and had a very linking and awful effect 
In the centre of the building is the holy fepulchre, which is now 
cafed over with marble for its better prefervation. But for this pre- 
caution, indeed, it would ere this have been broken into fragments, 
which the pilgrims would have carried off as fo many precious relics. 
The fepulchre, we are told, was at firft a cave hewn in the rock under 
ground ; but the rock having been fmce cut away in every direction, it 
appears now in the form of a grotto above ground. In bellowing on it 
a clofe infpection, we met with the ftone on which they told us the 
angel was feated when Mary fought the body of Jefus. This ftone 
had been removed from the entrance. The.fmall building, or chapel, 
in which the fepulchre is enclofed, was lighted by feveral large and 
handfomc lamps, a certain number of wliich are always kept burning. 
We were next conducted to all the interefting places which refpected 
our Saviour prcviouily to his death : fuch as the {pot where he was 
confined before his trial and condemnation ; that where he was 
fcourged, and the crown of thorns placed on his head ; that where 
he was nailed to the crofs, &c. We faw the fiffure in the rock 
which was rent by the earthquake at the time he gave up the ghoft, 
together with the place where the foldiers call lots for his garments, 
and the fpot where his body was embalmed. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 1 59 

The whole of this very extenfive building, in which the Greeks, 
Latins, Armenians, and Copts, have each refpectively a chapel, flands 
on Mount Calvary. We vifited each of thefe chapels. Near to that 
which was built by St. Helena, the mother of Conftantine the Great, 
in commemoration of the finding of the crofs on which our Saviour 
was crucified, we faw the cavern which was formerly the grand refer- 
voir of water that contained the crofs. In the middle of the Greek 
chapel ftands a marble bafm fixed on the ground, which the Greek 
priefh told us was not only placed in the centre of the pile of build- 
ings, but in the centre of the univerfe. This beautiful chapel is built 
of yellow and white marble ; and feveral of the columns are of verd 
antique. We next proceeded to the chapel where Mary vifited Jefus, 
the pavement of which is of beautiful marble, inlaid and ornamented 
with much tafle. In the courfe of our enquiries, we faw the tomb 
of Baldwin, governor of Jerufalem, who was killed during the crufades. 

The beauty and grandeur of thefe buildings do great credit to the 
age in which they were executed. Over the gate which led us to the 
elegant ftrufture, erected by the order of St. Helena, in which the 
holy fepulchre, and the memorable fpots I have noticed above, are 
enclofed, we faw the vefliges of feveral pieces of fine fculpture, toge- 
ther with a confiderable number of marble and granite columns, of 
the Corinthian order, and other architectural decorations. 

The Greek and Armenian priefts entertained us with coffee and 
fherbet in their refpective chapels. They told us that after the French 
had landed in Egypt, the Turks had, on a plea of fufpicion that the 
monks in general were not entire ftrangers to the plans and intentions 
of the enemy, fearched their monafleries for arms, papers, and other 



160 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

concealed effects, and had obliged them to feek refuge in the building 
over the holy fepulchre. They had there threatened to bring cannon, 
againft them, and put them to death, in cafe they mould refufe to 
open the door of the building, and furrender themfelves. In this 
alarming crifis they were providentially faved by a Turkifh fanton, or 
fanatic, who took his ftation on an elevated part of the city, and there 
harangued the MufTulmen in behalf of the minifters of the Chriftian 
gofpel, reminding them that, having fearched their monafteries, they 
had neither found arms nor any other objecT: which could lead to fuf- 
picion, and recommending to them to defift, and permit the unfortu- 
nate pricfts to return to their convents. The effect of this exhorta- 
tion was, that the multitude laid afide their fanguinary purfuit, and 
the monks were permitted to return quietly to their homes. They 
were not ungrateful for their deliverance, but collected a confiderable 
fum of money for the fanton, which he with great delicacy refufed. 

On our return we dined at the convent with the holy fathers, and 
proceeded afterwards to the general's lodging, where the vifit of the 
Mufti, who came thither to pay his refpects, was fhortly after an- 
nounced. This perfonage, who feemed to carry terror and difmay in 
his countenance, told us, that it was impoffible Jerufalem mould ever 
be taken, as there were feventy thoufand prophets, on the other fide 
of the Dead Sea, ready to come forward for its protection and defence. 
He alfo declared to us, that it was recorded in the facred writings, 
that the En glim and Turks had been friends for more than a thoufand 
years. He was not only fupreme of the church, but held the office 
of cadi, or judge. 

On his departure we returned the vifits of the Greek and Armenian 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 161 

clergy. The Armenian church, a fine and elegant ftructure, was or- 
namented by feveral good fcriptural paintings. The fathers pointed 
out to us the fpot where the head of St. James was depofited, after he 
had been decapitated at Caifla. 

We rofe at five in the morning of the 18th, and went to the chapel, 
where mafs was performing. We breakfafted fhortly after, and at 
feven o'clock left Jerufalem on our way to Bethlem, accompanied by 
the fuperior and feveral of the monks belonging to the Latin convent, 
in which we had taken up our refidence. On our quitting the city, 
we paired Mount Sion, on which the walls of the city are partly 
built, and which is feparated by a valley from the hill where Judas 
Ifcariot fold Jefus for thirty pieces of money. The road winds over 
a part of this hill. After an hour's journey, we reached a convent 
built by St. Helena, from whence we had a view of Bethlem, the 
road leading to which is extremely rocky, and of a very dreary ap- 
pearance. On approaching, the Dead Sea was in our view. Beth- 
lem {lands on a lofty mountain, the foil of which abounds in chalk 
and marl. The inhabitants came out to welcome us on the road ; 
and this was done by the women, by a moft hideous fhrieking noife, 
accompanied by geftures and diftortions, which it would be difficult 
to defcribe. On our pafiage through the ftreets, the houfes were 
thronged with people. 

As we approached the convent, in which we were received with 
great hofpitality, we palfed beneath the ruins of an ancient gate-way, 
and afterwards entered a lofty building, erected by St. Helena, an- 
ciently ftyled the temple, but now the convent, of St. Catharine. It 
is ornamented with at leaft fifty lofty and beautiful columns of marble, 

Y 



1 62 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

of the Corinthian order ; and has on its walls the remains of feveral 
fine paintings in frefco of fcriptural fubjecls, reprefenting the apoftles, 
patriarchs, &c. The beauty and fyrrimetry'of the temple have been 
in fome meafure deftroyed by a portion of it, which they have con- 
verted into a chapel, having been divided off by the Greeks, who re- 
ceived permiflion from the Turks to do fo, on their confenting to pay 
an annual contribution. 

After having partaken of an excellent breakfaft, provided by the 
fuperior of the convent, we went to fee the three furprifing bafins 
built by Solomon, near to which he is faid to have fpent much of his 
time. 

The pools, or bafins of Solomon, are three in number, and fituated 
in a Hoping hollow of the mountain, one above another ; fo that the 
waters of the uppermoft defcend into the fecond, and thofe of the 
fecond to the third. Their figure is quadrangular. The breadth 
is nearly the fame in all, amounting to between eighty and ninety 
paces. In their length they differ ; the firft being about one hundred 
and fixty paces long, the fecond two hundred, and the third two hun- 
dred and twenty. The depth of each is confiderable. They are lined 
with Hone, plaiflcred, and in a tolerable ftate of repair. They con- 
tained, however, but little water when I vifited them. 

The monks, by whom we were accompanied, confidered thefe 
pools, or bafins, as one of the greater!: antiquities in the country. 

They are diftant two hours journey from Bethlem ; and the road 
which leads to them, confirming entirely of rocks, is almoft impracti- 
cable. Thefe bafins fupplied the inhabitants of Bethlem and Jeru- 
falem with water, by means of aqucdu&s, which appeared, however, 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 163 

at the time of our vhit, to be fomewhat out of repair. In the vicinity 
of the pools we noticed a Turkifh fort ; and, not far from it, the 
fource or fpring, by which the bafins are fupplied with water, as well 
as by the rains which occafionally fall upon the neighbouring moun- 
tains, during the winter feafon. 

In returning, we patted through a valley, in which was a garden, 
entitled the garden of Solomon. Its irrigation having been favoured 
by the water which at times iffues from the rocks above into the val- 
ley, the vegetables it contained had a very promifmg appearance. We 
faw in the valley the ruin alfo of a building, which, we were told, 
had been inhabited by Solomon's concubines. 

On approaching Bethlem, the general inade a fketch of the town ; 
and we found, on our arrival, a fumptuous dinner prepared for us at 
the convent. After this repaft, we vifited the birth-place of our Sa- 
viour, a deep cavern hewn out of the folid rock, and lighted up by a 
confiderable number of lamps, in which the manger was, as well as 
every other interefting particular, pointed out to us. The manger 
was, for the fame reafon as the fepulchre, cafed over with marble, to 
prevent the- pilgrims from mutilating it, and carrying off with them 
fragments of fuch precious relics. We were afterwards conducted to a 
variety of memorable fpots, and, among them, to the deep and im- 
menfely large ciftern into which the bodies of the infants, murdered 
by. the command of Herod, were thrown. Near to this ciftern the 
tomb of St. Jerome was ntuated. 

The convent of St. Catharine, in which at one time twenty monks 
refided; but the number of whom was now reduced to eight, and the 



i6 4 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

Greek and Armenian convents, being all of them within the fame 
walls and enclofure, fo as to conftitute one large and entire building 
only, all the ever memorable places within Bethlem which the facred 
writings have recorded, are in this way built over and preferved. 

The inhabitants of Bethlem confift, for the greater part, of Greeks, 
Armenians, and Arabs converted to chriftianity. Among its popula- 
tion but few Turks are to be found. The drefs of the men, like that 
of the neighbouring peafants, is extremely fimple, and confifb of a 
long white chemife, or frock, with a girdle fattened round the waift. 
Very few of the poorer fort, whether males or females, wear fhoes. 
The women are dreffed in a blue chemife, with a cotton belt, or 
girdle, and cover the head with a long white veil, which flows loofely 
down the back. Their complexion is very dark, approaching almoft 
to black. They are very laborious, and fubmit to every defcription 
of drudgery. They are betrothed as foon as they come into the world ; 
and marry at the early age of twelve years. 

Bethlem {landing on an eminence, and on a chalky foil, is juftly 
confidered by the inhabitants as pofTeffing a very falubrious air ; in 
proof of which I obferved but few among them who had a fickly ap- 
pearance. There were indeed fome cafes of ophthalmia, but very rare. 
The fides of the mountain on which this town is fituated were, as well 
as the fummit, interfperfed with fine vineyards, banked in with {tones, 
which muft have coft a prodigious labour to the cultivators. The 
grapes they yielded were remarkably large, and finely flavoured. In 
addition to thefe we faw figs, pomegranates, and an abundance of 
olives, on which fruits the inhabitants, in a great meafure, fubfift. In 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 165 

the vallies fome corn is produced ; and the bread made from it is of 
an excellent quality. The dews, which fall in great abundance, are 
highly favourable to the vegetation in general. 

As we had to return, in the afternoon, the vifits of the Greek and 
Armenian patriarchs, it was fome what late before we quitted Beth- 
lem, infomuch that we did not reach our convent at Jerufalem until 
feven in the evening. I brought away with me from the former of 
thefe places, feveral chaplets, or firings of beads, made from a fruit 
brought from Mecca, dyed of a red colour, and crones, and other 
trinkets made from a pearl oyfter, which the inhabitants procure from 
the Red Sea, and which they manufacture into thefe curious articles 
with great addrefs. 

On the lQth, at eleven in the morning, we left the convent at 
Jerufalem, on our way to the Mount of Olives, fituated at about a 
mile's diftance from the walls of the city. Our attention was then 
directed to the fepulchres of the kings, which the monks confider as 
the third wonder in that part of the world. To infpect them, we 
entered at the eafr, fide, through an opening cut out of the folid rock, 
which brought us into a fpacious court of about forty paces fquare, 
cut down into the rock, with which it is encompafTed inftead of walls. 
On the fouth fide of this court there is a portico, nine paces long, and 
about four broad, in like manner hewn out of the natural rock. It 
has a kind of architrave running along its front, and although time 
has certainly deprived it of fome of its beauties, yet it {till exhi- 
bits the remains of excellent fculpture of flowers, fruits, &c. On the 
left hand, within this portico, we entered a fmall aperture upon our 



1 65 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

knees and hands ; the paffage was become difficult on account of 
the accumulation of rubbifh collected at its mouth. 

We reached at the commencement a large fquare chamber, cut 
with great neatnefs and exactnefs out of the folid rock. From this 
chamber we entered a fecond, which led to feveral more, five or fix 
in all, one within the other, nearly of the fame defcription as the firfl, 
except that in the interior chambers there were niches, or fepulchres, 
for the reception of the dead. Each of thefe caverns, or chambers, 
had niches for four, fix, or eight bodies. The mutilated portions of 
the farcophagi, ornamented with fine fculpture, lay fcattered upon the 
ground, as well as the fragments of the flone doors by which thefe 
chambers had been anciently clofed. 

The lid of one of the farcophagi, feven feet in length, having on it 
grapes, leaves, acorns, and various other devices, very beautifully 
fculptured, was in an entire flate. 

A door of one of the chambers was flill hanging. It confifled of a 
mafs of folid flone, refembling the rock itfelf, of about fix inches in 
thicknefs, but in fize lefs than an ordinary door. It turned upon two 
hinges, contrived in the manner of axles. Thefe hinges were of the 
fame entire piece of flone with the door, and were received into two 
holes of the immoveable rock, one at the top, the other at the bottom. 

In fomc of thefe chambers the dead bodies were laid upon benches 
of flone ; others had fepulchres cut in the form of ovens. In the dif- 
ferent chambers which I entered, I imagine from forty to fifty bodies 
might have been dcpofited. Whether the kings of Ifrael or of Judah, 
or any other kings were the conflructors of them, they have certainly 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 167 

been contrived with infinite ingenuity, and completed with immenfe 
labour. 

Having withdrawn from thefe interesting maufolei, or caverns, 
we proceeded to the fepulchres of the Virgin Mary, of her mother, 
and of Jofeph, all of them fituated in the valley of Jehofhaphat, and 
over which was erected a large ftone building, re- contracted by the 
Armenians, about forty years before. It was in the vicinity of this 
fpot that St. Stephen was {toned. To reach the fepulchres, which 
were in the inferior part of a cavern, dug from the folid rock, we had 
to defcend a flight of forty-eight fteps. The Virgin's fepulchre was 
lighted by lamps, which were conftantly kept burning at the joint 
expence of the Greeks, Armenians, and Copts. I brought away with 
me feveral fmall pieces of the rock, cut in fquares, which the inhabi- 
tants take care to provide for the gratification of the curious traveller. 
Contiguous to the building erected over the fepulchres, we entered a 
cave, in which our Saviour is faid to have fvveated blood. The monks 
by whom we were accompanied, pointed out to us feveral large, and 
apparently ancient olive-trees, which, they allured us, were in exif- 
tence in the time of our Saviour, and which flood in the front of the 
building. We did not prefume to queftion their erudition on this 
point of natural hiftory ; but could not help admiring the attention 
they beftowed on them, in encompaffing their roots by ftones, and 
filling up the cavities of their decayed trunks with the fame mate- 
rials, for their better prefervation. 

On our quitting this fpot, we went to the Mount of Olives, a very 
fleep hill, on the eaft fide of Jerufalem, the valley of Jehofhaphat lying 
between the mount and city. On our reaching its fummit, we were 



1 68 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

conducted to a fmall circular building, in which the reverend fathers 
pointed out to us the impreffion of* our Saviour's foot in a ftone, when 
he afcended into heaven. The Chriftian inhabitants, when they vifit 
the Mount of Olives, do not content themfelves with faluting this cavity 
in the {lone, but alfo rub on it the fragments of marble taken from the 
rock beneath, at the fepulchre of the blelTed Virgin. The fmall building 
erected over the place of afcenfion is contiguous to aTurkifti mofque, 
and is in the polTeffion of the Turks, who derive a profit from mowing 
its contents ; and who alfo fubjecl: the Chriftians to an annual con- 
tribution for a permiffion to officiate within it, according to their 
ritual, on Afcenfion- day. At the diftance of about an hundred yards 
from the mofque is the fpot where the angel appeared to Jefus, warn- 
ing him to afcend, as his place was not on earth, but above ; and 
where the apoftles were affembled at the moment of his afcenfion* 
From the mofque itfelf we had a fine and commanding view of Jeru- 
falem, Mount Sion, and the Dead Sea. 

In defcending the mountain, and in paffing afterwards through the 
valley of Jehofhaphat, we were gratified by the view of feveral memo- 
rable fpots. We faw, among others, the tombs of Abfalom and Ze- 
chariah ; and vifited the place where the apoftles concealed themfelves 
when Jcfus was led by. We were next conducted to the well of St. 
Barb, at the foot of Mount Sion, where the veftments of Jefus were 
warned ; and, at an inconfiderable diftance from it, infpeCted the wells 
of Nehemiah. 

On leaving the valley of Jehofhaphat, we palTed to the right of the 
place where the body of the prophet Ifaiah was fevered into two parts. 
In afcending Mount Sion, we faw, on the acclivity of an oppofite 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 169 

mountain, a building erected on the fpot where Judas Ifcariot betrayed 
Jefus for thirty pieces of filver. On reaching the fummit of the 
mount, a church and convent, belonging to the Armenians, were 
pointed out to us, iltuated at a fmall diltance from the entrance gate 
leading to the back part of the city. It was there, the monks in- 
formed us, that the cock crew when Peter denied Chrift. Without 
the city walls, and on Mount Sion, there is a Turkifli mofque {land- 
ing on the ground where King David was buried, and where our 
Saviour instituted the Lord's fupper. 

We returned to Jerufalem, and having partaken of a good dinner 
at the convent, paid an evening's vifit to the Mufti, who received us 
with much hofpitality and politenefs, and who expreffed his wifh that 
we would fpend another day in the holy city, in order that he might 
entertain us in a fuitable manner. We had, however, made our 
arrangements to fet out on the following morning, on our return to 
Jaffa. 

Having accordingly made an early break faft at the convent, we left 
Jerufalem at eight in the morning of the 20th. Our plan was, to halt 
at St. Jerome in the evening ; to proceed to Ramla on the following 
day ; and to reach Jaffa on the third. On our way to the village of 
St. John, diftant three hours journey from Jerufalem, a fine building, 
ftyled the convent of St. Helena, was pointed out to us, as having 
been built by that emprefs on the fpot whence the timber was taken 
for our Saviour's crofs. In the village itfelf, the birth-place of St. 
John the Baptift, there is alfo a convent. We arrived there at eleven 
o'clock, and having entered the church, were directed to the ipot 
where St, John was born, and which is conftantly lighted up by lamps. 



lyo TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

The church is very neatly decorated, and is ornamented by feveral 
good pictures. 

The inhabitants of St. John are a mixture of Turks and Arabs, 
the former of whom are by far the rnoft numerous. They were, at 
the time of our vifit, as well as two other neighbouring villages, in a 
hoftile flate to Mahomed Pacha, who, not content with having levied 
the cuftomary annual avanias, or tributes, had endeavoured to exact 
heavy contributions, which they had neither the will nor the capacity 
to pay. They had accordingly affembled, and had fworn, laying their 
fwords acrofs, which with them adds great folemnity to the protefta- 
tion, that they would prefer death to a fubmiffion to any demand 
which mould exceed the cuftomary amount of their contributions. 
In the vicinity of this village there are feveral fine vineyards, and other 
fpots in excellent cultivation. 

After having taken the neceffary refreshments, we quitted St. John 
at two in the afternoon, on our way to St. Jerome ; on our approaching 
which place we were met by the Arab fheick, and a confiderable 
number of his people, who had come out to welcome us, and pay 
their refpects. On our arrival, at half paft four o'clock, we were con- 
ducted to a houfe which had been prepared for our reception ; and, 
having brought with us cold provifions, we foon found ourfelves at 
our eafe. 

Shortly after we had reached the village, the inhabitants, who were 
equally refractory with thofe of St. John, were thrown into great 
confufion and alarm by the rumour that the troops of Mahomed 
Pacha were approaching. Inftantly both men and women fled to an 
adjoining poll:, fituated on a lofty mountain, very difficult of accefs, 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 17 1 

and equally hazardous to an enemy who mould meditate an attack. 
They there waited further intelligence refpecting the advances of the 
redoubted Pacha. 

On our rifing at four in the morning of the 21 ft, there was a very 
confiderable fall of dew, which, in this country, where the rains occur 
fo feldom, is in a manner indifpenfable to the vegetation. We were 
told at Jerufalem that rain had not fallen there during nine months. 

The vineyards about St. Jerome, cultivated in terraces, or, in other 
words, banked in with ftones to prevent the efcape of the foil and 
moifture, had a very promifmg appearance. We left that place about 
feven o'clock, to proceed to Ramla, and took a route over the moun- 
tains, infinitely more agreeable and commodious to the traveller than 
that by which we had pafled on our way to Jerufalem. We arrived 
about eleven o'clock at the village of CahTa, where we had breakfafted 
when we firft proceeded on our journey, the day after our departure 
from Jaffa; and, having halted to take refrefliments, purfued our 
way to Ramla, which we reached at two in the afternoon, fixing our 
refidence, as before, at the Latin convent. 

Kamla, the ancient Arimathea of the facred writings, is well known 
as the refidence of Jofeph, the rich man and difciple, who went to 
Pontius Pilate to beg the body of Jefus, which having obtained, 
he, in concert with Nicodemus, took it down, and wrapped it in 
linen clothes, with fpices, after the manner of the Jews, deposit- 
ing it in a fepulchre, hewn" out of the rock, which had been prepared 
for himfelf. The view of the town, from the fide at which 
we entered on this latter occafion, was extremely pi&urefque and 
beautiful. It is fituated on the confine of a rich and extenfive plain, 



t 7 2 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

the luxuriant foil of which is capable of producing whatever is efTen** 
tial to the fubfiflence of man. We faw feveral plantations of the 
dourra, or Indian corn, together with vineyards, gardens containing 
fruits and vegetables, and fields of cotton. The numerous olive-trees 
-without the town, and the date-trees interfperfed between the build- 
ings, furnirtied a moft agreeable picture. 

The pavement of the ftreets of Ramla is intermixed with portions 
of marble ; and the houfes being partly built of that material, which 
is here of a yellowifh caft, and partly of ftone, with the addition of 
domes and terraces, have a very neat and agreeable appearance when 
viewed from an elevated fituation. 

We were told by the reverend fathers belonging to our convent,, 
that the mountain which is contiguous to the Dead Sea, exudes a bi- 
tuminous matter, with which the fea itfelf is oeeafionally overfpread. 
They produced a fpecimen of this fubftance, which had the appear- 
ance of common pitch. I do not wifh to accufe them of dealing in 
the marvellous, but they furprifed us not a little when, in fpeaking of 
the noxious quality of the air in the vicinity of the Dead Sea, they 
afferted, that notwithstanding the fruits and vegetables which grew 
there were very fine in appearance, they were deftitute of all flavour ; 
and that the oranges in particular, inftead of containing a pleafant and 
refrefhing juice, were filled with a cineritious matter. The fuperior 
allured us, that he had fent feveral of thefe oranges to Europe as a 
curiofity. 

Several fine refrefhing fhowers having fallen during the night, we 
had a very cool and agreeable ride from Ramla, which we left at eight 
in the morning of the 22d, and reached the camp at Jaffa about 
eleven o'clock. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. i 73 

On our return from Jerufalem, we fell in with the Greek priefts, 
whom I have already mentioned as having been on their way to 
Ramla, to obey a requifition of Mahomet Pacha, with whom, we 
were now told, they had purchafed their peace, by confenting to pay 
a fine of five hundred purfes, each containing the fame number of 
piaftres. This reconciliation having been effected, they were joy- 
fully returning to the holy city. 

Our excurfion thither was attended by a fingular eircumftance, 
namely, that our party, comprehending the efcort and attendants, 
was made up of eight different nations, Englifli,. Spaniards, Italians, 
Greeks, Armenians, Turks, Copts, and Arabs. 

I cannot conclude this chapter better than by giving the following 
tranllation of a written account of Jerufalem, Bethlehem, and the 
other interefting places in the Holy Land, prefented to us by the 
reverend fathers of the Latin convent at Jerufalem. It may be 
confidered, not merely as a guide to the devout pilgrim, for whofe 
information, and for that of the curious traveller, it appears to have 
been drawn up ; but as an interefting topographical fketch of the 
countries which embrace the raoft remarkable obje&s recorded in 
the facred writings- 



TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 



A TRUE DESCRIPTION OF 

THE HOLY PLACES IN JERUSALEM, 

AND OF THOSE WHICH ARE LIKEWISE USUALLY VISITED BY 
THE DEVOUT PILGRIMS IN -JUDEA, GALILEE, &C. 



IN JERUSALEM. 

/~\N entering the church of the holy fepulchre, likewife called St. 

Helen's church, from having been built by the Emprefs Helen, 
the ftone of unclion prefents itfelf, where our Saviour was embalmed 
and anointed by Jofeph and Nicodemus ; to the right of which is 
the afcent to Mount Calvary, by twelve fteps, where is feen the 
hole in which the crofs was placed, and near it a cleft in the moun- 
tain, occafioned by the earthquake after our Saviour's death ; like- 
wife the place of crucifixion. This laft belongs to the Catholics. 
The fclufmatic Greeks robbed us of the hole of the crofs by means of 
money. 

From Mount Calvary you defcend to the holy fepulchre of our 
Lord, where forty-four lamps are burning, fourteen of which are 
ours, the reft belong to the Greeks, Armenians, and Copts, but thefe 
have no dominion whatever over the fepulchre itfelf. Its length is 
nine fpans, its breadth four, and its height about three and a half. 
Before the entrance to it is the AngeTs Chapel, a little larger than the 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 175 

fepulchre. In the middle of it is a {tone, little more than a fpan 
high, and about nine fpans in circumference. On this ftone fat the 
angel who, after the refurreclion of our Lord, appeared to the holy 
women, faying to them — " Do you feek Jems who has been cruci- 
" fied ? He h not here, but is rifen." On leaving this chapel, at 
the diftance of a few paces, is feen the place where the Lord, after 
being rifen, was feen by Mary Magdalen, in the drefs of a gardener ; 
and, a few paces further, the fpot where that penitent flood. You 
then enter our church, where our Saviour made his firft appearance 
to his holy mother, after the refurreclion. On the right of the great 
altar fin which our Lord is preserved under the facramental form ) is a 
hollow place, faftened up with an iron grating, within which is part 
of the column to which he was bound and fcourged. On the left 
is part of the holy crofs, fhut up in the fame manner. At the foot 
of the altar is feen the place where one of the three crolfes was mi- 
raculoufly difcovered by St. Helen, perhaps the crofs of the Saviour. 
Leaving our church, you vifit the prifon where our Saviour was 
bound before he fuffered the death of the crofs : this place belongs 
to the Greeks. A few fteps from it is the chapel of St. Longinus, 
the foldier who, after having pierced the facred fide of our Saviour, 
wept on account of his fins in this place, which likewife belongs to 
the Greeks. A few fteps further is the place where the foldiers went 
to divide the garments of the Redeemer, and which belongs to the 
Armenians. A few fteps from this is the pillar of reproaches, be- 
longing to the Greeks. From thence you defcend twenty-nine 
fteps, and you fee the chapel of St. Helen, and the place where me 
ftood when they dug for the holy crofs. Then defcending thirteen 



176 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

other fteps, you fee the place where the crofs was found. This 
place belongs to us, but the chapel of St. Helen was, as well as the 
other places, ftolen from us by the Armenians. St. Helen lived 
eighty years : fhe was buried in one of the churches of Rome. 

Under the holy Mount Calvary is the Chapel of Adam, where, as 
authors fay, the head of Adam was buried by Shem, the fon of Noah, 
after the deluge. This belongs to the Greeks. At a little diftance 
from it, is the place where the holy women flood whilfl our Sa- 
yiour was crucified, and likewife the place where they fat down. 
Behind the holy fepulchre is the monument of Jofeph of Arimathea, 
who earneflly requefled of Pilate the holy body of Jefus : this be- 
longs to the Armenians. 

Near the door of the church you afcend eleven fteps, and come 
to the chapel of St. Mary of Calvary, where the blelfed Virgin flood 
with St. John the Evangelift, when the Jews crucified our Saviour, 
and where we perform mafs every day. In the road leading to the 
garden of Gethfemane, called the Mournful Way, are feen the place 
where the Lord fell under the weight of the crofs, which he carried 
on his moulders ; the palace of Pilate, within which is the tribunal, 
where the Saviour was fcourged, and given into the hands of the 
Jews 'to be crucified; and alfo the place where they bound him to 
the column, and crowned him with a crown of thorns, faying to 
him, " Hail! King of the Jews." Without is likewife the place where 
he was fcourged ; together with the arch where Pilate mewed him 
to the people, faying, " Behold the man." In the court-yard of the 
palace is the place where the foldiers fpoiled him of the purple, and 
dreffed him again in his own garments, giving him the crofs to carry. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 177 

At a fhort dirtance from the arch before-mentioned, is t he place 
where the Virgin Mary met her fon. Purfuing the road to Gethfe- 
raane, you meet with a mofque near the gate of St. Stephen, where 
the Virgin Mary was born. Without the gate is the place where 
St. Stephen was ftoned by the Jews, and, near to it, the ciftern, into 
which they fay his body was thrown. The church of the Virgin 
Mary is next feen. Having defcended forty-eight fteps, you view 
the altar, or fepulchre, whence fhe was taken up into heaven by the 
angels. About ninety years ago this was taken away from us by 
the Greeks. Within the church are the tombs of St. Ann, St. 
Jofeph, and St. James. At a fhort diftance from the church is the 
grotto, in which our Saviour fweated blood. Near the grotto is 
the garden in which he was taken. In this garden are eight olive- 
trees, which, according to tradition, were there in the time of our 
Saviour : they bear fruit, and are wonderfully preferved. At the 
bottom of a fmall mount is the place where our Saviour parted from 
the eight apoftles to pray, and near it the place where he left the 
other three, viz. Peter, James, and John his brother. A few fteps 
farther is the place where the Virgin Mary prayed for St. Stephen, 
whilft the Jews ftoned him. 

Leaving the garden, you go to the torrent of Cedron, near which 
our Saviour fell when he was bound by the Jews. Moving onward, 
you fee the tomb of Jehofaphat, king of Judah, curioufly excavated 
in a rock, and alfo the tomb of Abfalom, fon of David, which he 
himfelf caufed to be excavated, in order that he might be buried 
there, and which is made in the form of a tower. Afcending a 
little, you fee the place where St. James the Lefs hid himfelf after 



178 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

our Saviour was: taken likewife the tomb ofZachariab the prophet 
and martyr, flain by the Jews. All thefe places are on the left of 
the torrent of Cedron. Not far off is the town, or village, com- 
monly called Siloe ; and, about a mile from it, a fountain, called 
Mary's fountain, becaufe it is known from tradition, that the holy 
Virgin warned in it the clothes of her child. Near this is a wall of 
the ancient church of the pool of Siloe, in which our Saviour put 
the blind man, in order that he might wafh himfelf, and recover his 
fight. Not far from this is a tree where the prophet Ifaiah was 
fevered in two parts: likewife the w r ell of Nehemiah, in which, by 
God's permiffion, the holy fire remained hidden for feventy years, 
that is, during the time when the Ifraelites were carried into Perfia, 
in the reign of Nebuchadnezzar king of the Perfians. At the expi- 
ration of the feventy years, the prieft Nehemiah caufed a fearch to 
be made for the holy fire, and found in place of it water, which, 
however, by divine power, was reconverted into fire. 

On the holy Mount of Olives, where our Saviour afcended into 
heaven, are feen the impreffions of his feet. The church built there 
by St. Helen is now a mofque. A mile from this is the place called 
Men of Galilee, becaufe, after the afcenfion, the angels appeared here 
to the difciples, opprefTed with grief, faying unto them, " Men of 
" Gallilee, why ftand ye looking up to heaven ?" The following 
places are likewife feen on the Mount of Olives, viz. the place where 
the Saviour, catting his eyes towards Jerufalem, wept for it ; where 
the apoftlcs compofed the creed ; where the Saviour prayed, and 
taught the difciples the pater nofler ; the tombs of the prophets ; the 
place where Chriffc foretold the deftrucYion of Jerufalem, which is 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 179 

marked by a broken column,, and an olive-tree ; the cottage of St. 
Pelafgia, the penitent, who came to Antioch in the drefs of a man, 
and, taking the name of Pelafgius, led there a monaftic life. 

About half a mile from Jerufalem, near the tombs of the kings 
of the Jews, towards Siloe, is feen the execrable place where the 
facrilegious Judas, after having fold Jefus, hanged himfelf. Two 
miles from the Mount of Olives, Hands Bethana, where are the vef- 
tiges of the houfe of Mary Magdalene and Martha, and the tomb 
where Lazarus their brother was buried and raifed to life again. Not 
far from this place is Bethfage, upon a hill, where, by the defire of 
our Saviour, the apoftles brought him an afs, upon which he glo- 
rioufly entered Jerufalem on palm day, by the golden gate, where 
there is now a wall. 

On Mount S ion is feen the cenaculum, or fupper-room, where the 
Holy Ghoft defcended upon the apoftles ; where the Saviour ap- 
peared to them after the refurreclion, and warned their feet ; and 
where he alfo appeared to St. Thomas. The place where St. Matthias 
was elecled an apoftle, in the room of Judas, and the tomb of 
David, who lived feventy years and fix months, are alfo to be feen 
there. At a fhort diftance from Mount Sion is the houfe where the 
Virgin Mary lived nearly twenty-four years after her fon's afcenfion, 
and where, according to tradition, fhe died. Near this is the chapel 
of St. John the Evangelift. Entering at the gate called Ster.guiltina, 
you come to a little grotto, where Peter wept, after having denied 
Chrift. Farther on is the houfe of Anna, the high-prieft, where 
Jefus was led bound, and where the ungrateful Malco, fervant of 
the high-prieft, who had been healed but a little before, gave the 



i8o TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

Saviour a blow : this place belongs to the Armenians. Near it is 
feen an olive-tree, to which Chrift was bound, and the palace of 
Caiphas, the high-prieft. There St. Helen built a church, and the 
Armenians the convent, which they now occupy. In a corner of 
the church, on the right of the great altar, is the prifbn where Chrift 
remained a whole night. Near the door of the church, on the right, 
under a portico, is the place where the maid faid to Peter, " and 
" this man was likewife with him," and the place where Peter thrice 
denied Chrift, on which there is a tree, as a mark of it. There is 
likewife a place called the cock crow, becaufe the cock crowed on 
that fpot, and reminded Peter of the denial. 

Not far from Jerufalem is a place called the grotto of Jeremiah, 
where that prophet wrote the lamentations of the holy w 7 eek ; and,, 
a little farther, the tombs of the kings, twenty-two in number. 

BETHLEHEM. 

Here are feen the following places, viz. where Chrift was born, 
the manger in which he was laid, and the place where he was adored 
by the magi. The grotto of St. Jofeph, where he remained when 
the Virgin was delivered ; the place where the Innocents were flain 
by order of Herod ; the fepulchre of St. Gerolamo, St. Paula, and 
St. Euftochia her daughter ; the birth-place of our Saviour, which 
has been forty or fifty years in the power of the Greeks, who took it 
away from us by means of a firman of the Grand Seignor, procured 
by money ; and the church of St. Catharine, built by St. Helen. 
Without Bethlehem, at a little diftance, is the grotto of the mill of 
the Virgin Mary, and a few fteps farther, the houfe of St. Jofeph. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. i8r 

About two miles farther is the church of the angels ; in which 
place the birth of our Saviour was announced to the fhepherds by 
the angels, finging " Glory to God in the higheft." About iix 
miles from Bethlehem, is the place where was fituated the city of 
Tecua, built by Rehoboam, fon of Solomon ; in this city lived the 
holy prophet Amos. Towards the Dead Sea, fix miles from Beth- 
lehem, is the place where were the vines of Engaddi, fo much 
praifed in the pfalms ; and a few fteps from thence, is the place 
where David hid himfelf from the perfecution of Saul. Four miles 
diftant is the mo'naftery of St. Sabba, in poffeffion of the Greeks. 
This was built by the Emperor Juftinian, and in it died St. Sabba, 
whofe body was conveyed to Venice. In this convent are the 
feveral rooms of St. John of Damafcus, of St. Eutimius, and St. 
Civillus. Returning from the convent of St. Sabba, you go to the 
hortus conclufus, to the three pools of Solomon, &c. 

ST. JOHN IN THE MOUNTAIN. 

The place where John the Baptift was born, and the houfe of 
St. Elizabeth, where the Virgin Mary went to vifit her, and com- 
pofed the pfalm " magnificat" (my foul doth magnify the Lord, 
&c.) are here to be feen. In the way you meet with a convent be- 
longing to the Greeks, called the Holy Crofs, built by St. Helen, 
in the place where the wood was cut to make the crofs of our 
Saviour. 

About four miles from St. John, is the defert of John the Bap- 
tift — here is a cave where he and his mother, St. Elizabeth, hid 
themfelves by order of God, to avoid the cruelty of Herod, who 



1 82 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

fought to kill him, eight months after his birth. In the fame place 
is feen the ftone upon which St. John flept a little at night ; and 
at a little diftance is the fepulchre of St. Elizabeth, his mother, who 
died there four years after his birth, and was buried by the hands of 
angels. 

NAZARETH. 

Here is to be feen the place where St. Gabriel appeared to the 
holy Virgin, faluting her, faying Ave Maria, and announcing the 
Incarnation. 

To go into the holy grotto fifteen fteps are to be defcended. In 
this grotto are feen two pillars, fcarcely two fteps from each other, 
one called Mary's pillar, the other the Angel's, made by St. Helen, 
according to tradition. That which is called the pillar of the Virgin 
Mary, {lands without fupport, being raifed from the ground about 
five fpans. It is pioufly believed that there the Virgin Mary flood 
when me was faluted by the angel Gabriel. The other, which 
ftands firmly fupported, is in the place where the angel flood when 
he faid to the Virgin, Ave Maria. In this grotto there are two 
altars, one called the altar of the incarnation : the other, which is 
contiguous to it, and the five altars in the great church, were built 
by St. Helen. In the town, at a little diftance from the convent, 
is feen the houfe of St. Jofeph, almoft deftroyed, in which he, with 
his reputed fon, carried on the trade of carpenter. This houfe is 
now occupied by the Turks. A few fteps farther is feen the Jew's 
fynagogue, in which the Saviour preached to the Pharifees, faying, 
" Verily I fay unto you, no prophet is received in his own country," 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 183 

&c. At a (holt diftance is the fountain of the Virgin Mary 
and her "fan, fo called, becaufe they both went to that fountain to 
get water. In its vicinity is a church of the Greeks ; and about a 
mile farther is feen, on an eminence, the table of Chrift, that is, a 
ftone, upon which he and his difciples ate. Towards the fouth is a 
mount, called the Mount of the Virgin's Fear, becaufe the Virgin 
Mary here underftood, that the men of Nazareth having driven her 
fon from the fynagogue in which he had preached, intended to con- 
duct him to another mountain, to precipitate him from it : here 
was formerly a monaftery of monks. About an hour's diftanee 
from Nazareth is the mountain alluded to, from which they in- 
tended to throw Chrift, and which is on that account called the 
precipice of Chrift. From thence, by a very bad road, over hills, as 
you go to Jaffa, lies the country of Zebedee, and his fons, James the 
Great, and John the Evangelift. The church is deftroyed ; it is 
about three miles from Nazareth. Nazareth is about ninety miles 
from Jerufalem by land, and about twenty-four from Acre. 

From Nazareth you go to the fea of Tiberias ; and £rft prefents 
itfelf the city of Cana in Galilee, about four miles from Nazareth. 
In this place it was that Jefus converted the water into wine ; and 
it is faid to have been the country of the apoftles Bartholomew, Si- 
mon the Canaanite, and St. Matthew. From this place you go to 
the fepulchre of the prophet Jonas, on a mountain two or three 
miles from the road, and about fix miles from Nazareth. About 
twelve miles further, paffmg through a large plain, you go to the 
place called the Table of Chrift, w 7 here, with feven loaves and two 
fimes, he fatisficd 4000 perfons. At a little diftance is the Mount 



184 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

of Bleflings, where the Saviour .declared the eight bleflings— 
Blejfed are the poor in fpirit" &c. On the top of the mount ruins 
are yet to be feen. About fix miles farther is another mount, from 
which is feen the city of Tiberias, furrounded by a wall. In this 
place, Jefus Chrift, after being rifen from the dead, conftituted Peter 
chief of the apoftles, head and mafter of the world. The Turks 
have deftroyed this place. Tiberias is diflant from Nazareth about 
twenty- four miles. A little way farther, near the Sea of Galilee, 
is the famous city of Capernaum, where our Saviour preached for 
the firfh time the doctrine of the moft auguft eucharift ; where he 
cured the paralytic ; where St. Matthew, {landing at the " receipt 
" of cuftom," was called by him, and followed him ; and where he 
cured the Centurion. 

All the places here defcribed are true and genuine, and the devout 
pilgrim will be able by this defcription to form an idea of them fo 
as not to forget them— Praife to God. 



Jerusalem, 
2 2d October, 1800. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 185 
CHAPTER X. 

IRREGULARITIES IN THE TURKISH CAMP GOVERNOR OP DAMASCUS BE- 
HEADED MEMORIAL DELIVERED TO THE GRAND VIZIER ON THE 

STATE OP THE CAMP DESERTION OF TURKISH CHIEFS AND SOLDIERS 

TENTS PLUNDERED BY ARABS PLAGUE AMONG THE MAMELUKES 

AND ALBANIANS MUTINY OF THE JANISSARIES CEREMONIES ON PAY- 
ING THEM THEIR ARREARS ALARMS EXCITED BY REPORTS FROM EL- 

ARISH DECAPITATION OF TURKISH SOLDIERS FOR GAMING RAVAGES 

BY THE PLAGUE INSURRECTION IN PALESTINE ON ACCOUNT OF THE 

HEAVY IMPOSITIONS OF THE GOVERNMENT DISASTROUS STATE OF 

THE BRITISH MISSION DEATH OF A MILITARY ARTIFICER A BRITISH 

GUNNER DIES OP THE PLAGUE DEATH OF MRS. KOEHLER, AND OF THE 

GENERAL PRECAUTIONS EMPLOYED TO STOP THE PROGRESS OF THE 

PLAGUE TURKISH ENTERTAINMENTS IN CAMP REMOVAL OF THE 

CAMP INSTANCES OF INSUBORDINATION IN THE CAMP EFFECTIVE 

FORCE OF THE TURKISH ARMY OBSERVATIONS ON THE PLAGUE VI- 

ZIER'S PHYSICIAN DIES OF THE PLAGUE EAMAZAN LYDDA THE 

GRAND VIZIER INDISPOSED, AND ATTENDED BY THE AUTHOR CELE- 
BRATION OF THE BIRAM IN CAMP REMARKS ON THE COUNTRY ABOUT 

JAFFA CLIMATE OF SYRIA FACE OF THE COUNTRY, AND SOIL 

PRODUCTIONS OF SYRIA SHEEP AND GOATS OTHER CATTLE HABI- 

• TATIONS OF THE SYRIANS CAMELS, AND OTHER BEASTS OF BURTHEN 

CHARACTER AND MANNERS OF THE SYRIANS ABJECT STATE OF TEE 

FARMERS, OR HUSBANDMEN BEDOUINS, OR WANDERING ARABS AGRI- 
CULTURE OF SYRIA DISEASES OF SYRIA. 

/"\N our return to camp we found that the tranfport had arrived 
on the morning of the preceding day, the 21ft, from El-Arifh. 
The tranfport failed on the 26th to Caiffa, the port of Acre, to 
feek fnelter from the inclement weather and high winds, which ren- 

B b 



186 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

dercd the road of Jaffa a place of little fecurity for anchorage. The 
women belonging to the miffion had been previoufly debarked from 
her, and were fent to inhabit a houfe in the town. 

On the morning of the 27th, a fmart and brifk fire of mufketry, 
with ball cartridges, was kept up for a confiderable time by the 
Turkifh foldiery, who, as we afterwards found, had been araufing 
themfelves in this way on their return from a field-day. 

We learned on the 28th, that the Waiwode, or Governor of Da- 
mafcus, had been beheaded, and a Turk of diftinction fent to collect 
his riches. The deceafed had been Kia to Mahomed Pacha, by 
whom he had been appointed to the above fituation. 

During the night an affray happened among^ the Arnauts, who 
proceeded to fuch extremities, that five of them were killed, and 
three wounded. 

I delivered in, on the 30th, a written reprefentation to the Vizier 
and Reis Effendi, on the fubject of the filthy and noxious ftate of 
the camp, arifing from the abundance of the putrid carcafes of horfes, 
mules, &c. which were every where difperfed. In my letter, I reca- 
pitulated, in the moll: forcible and energetic terms I was capable of 
ufing, all the dangers which might refult from thefe nuifances, un- 
lefs the means which I pointed out mould be adopted without delay, 
or, provided they could not be readily effected, the ground of the 
encampment fhifted previoufly to the expected falls of rain. The 
Vizier, in expreffing his thanks for this communication, promifed 
that an immediate and proper attention fhould be paid to the reme- 
dying of the evil of which 1 complained. 

Towards the clofe of the month two of the Turkifh chiefs, toge- 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 187 

ther with feveral hundreds of the privates, furreptitioufly left the 
camp, to proceed to Acre, and join the forces of Djezzar Pacha, who, 
according to reports which were abroad, gave better pay to his troops 
than the Vizier. 

About this time feveral of our tents were plundered by the Arabs, 
whofe activity and addrefs eluded all our purfuits. Thefe depreda- 
tions having been committed for feveral nights fucceffively, our fuf- 
picions at length fell on an Arab cook, whom we had taken into 
our fervice, and who proved to be one of the parties concerned. 

On the 3d of November, at fix in the morning, the detachments 
which compofed the Britilh military miffion, were marched out. to 
be reviewed by his Highnefs the Vizier, for whom a fuperb tent had 
been pitched, together with feveral others for the company and at- 
tendants. Our detachments having gone through a variety of evo- 
lutions, and fired feveral difcharges, the Vizier was pleafed to com- 
pliment them, and to exprefs his fulleft approbation of their excel- 
lent order and difcipline. Previoufly to their being marched to 
camp, a prefent was made by his Highnefs to the non-commiffioned 
officers and privates. He had been careful to draw up on this occa- 
fion a large proportion of his troops to witnefs the review ; and 
made it a particular requefl that our officers mould join the Turkifh 
cavalcade in proceffion, on the return to the camp, in the courfe of 
which his attendants amufed us by forming feveral djerid parties, the 
mufic playing, and the Mameluke cavalry going through a charge. 

At this time the plague again made its appearance among the 
Mamelukes and Albanians, feveral of whom, we were informed, 
daily fell' victims to this difeafe. 

B b 2 



188 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

Harlan Djadarvi, one of the Mameluke Beys, left El-Arifh on the 
6th, with a confiderable body of troops, for the purpofe of recon- 
noitring the detached parties of the enemy, and endeavouring to cut 
off them or their convoys. He returned a few days after, without 
having accomplifhcd trie objecl: on which he had been fent. 

On the 10th I received from the reverend fathers belonging to the 
Latin convent at Jerufalem, a prefent of fruits and of curious plants 
collecled near the Dead Sea, accompanied by two bottles of the 
water taken from that fea, the taffce of which was peculiarly faline 
and pungent. Upon their arrival in England, I fhall endeavour to 
give an analyfis of the water. 

The JanifTaries alTembled on the 13th, in a tumultuous manner, 
and proceeded to their Aga, or commander, who, on being apprized 
of their intentions and menaces, had fecreted himfelf. Being thus 
difappointed in meeting with the objecl: of their refentment, they 
repaired to the Vizier, to ftate their grievance, which confided in a 
confiderable arrear of their pay remaining unpaid. A Tartar having 
arrived, however, the preceding day in a vefTel from Conftantinople, 
with a fupply of treafure for the Vizier, he was enabled to make 
them a promife of payment, with which they were fo well fatis- 
fied, that they returned quietly to their tents. 

In confequence of an invitation from the Grand Vizier, the million 
proceeded on the morning of the 18th, at nine o'clock, to witnefs 
the ceremony of the payment which was to be made to the JanifTa- 
ries. To the right of the tent of the Grand Vizier a tent was pitched 
for our officers ; and to the left a new and fuperb tent, provided 
with a handfome fopha for his Highnefs, and a ftool for the Tefterdar, 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 189 

or high treafurer, was pitched for the ceremony. The money, which 
lay in bags in the front of the tent, was divided into nine lots. The 
guards and attendants, together with the Tartars and JanifTaries, 
formed three fides of a fquare, the fourth fide of which was formed 
by the tents. The JanifTaries who were to be paid were without 
arms; and the Tefterdar read aloud the order of payment. 

Of the nine lots, eight were for as many companies of JanifTaries, 
and the ninth for the Choarbagis, or commanders. The bags con- 
tained in one of thefe lots having been laid promifcuoufly within 
the fquare, a fignal was made for the company which was to be 
paid. This was no fooner done, than all the individuals belonging 
to it ruflied forward, and fcrambled for the bags, contending with 
each other who mould carry them off, to which circumftance they 
attach no fmall fhare of honour, at the fame time that it is not 
accompanied by any pecuniary advantage, the bags being inftantly 
taken to the tent of the Choarbagis commanding the company, and 
a proper diftribution of the money there made. Each of the com- 
panies having received its lot or portion of the bags, the Choarbagis, 
who were permitted to wear their arms, had theirs delivered to 
them. The number diftributed was an hundred and eighty-fix, 
each of the purfes or bags containing five hundred piaftres. 

The ffcate officers who attended on this occafion were drefTed in 
fcarlet benices, or robes of honour ; and the Tefterdar was, on the 
conclufion of the ceremony, inverted with a caftan, as were likewife 
all thofe who were immediately concerned under him in making 
the payments. Except the contefts which enfued, in this very ex- 
. traordinary mode of paying the troops,, to obtain the pofTemon of 



i 9 o TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

the bags, not a tumultuous voice was heard; but the whole was 
conducted with great gravity and tranquillity. 

In confequence of advices received from El-Arifh on the 17th, 
purporting that the French had, on hearing of the movement made 
by the Bey, HafTan Djadarvi, fent a body of fifteen hundred men 
to oppofe him, and had alfo thrown a frefh body of troops into 
Salahieh, there was a confiderable degree of agitation in the Turkifh 
camp. It was reported alfo that a brig, fuppofed to be French, had 
been hovering for fome days off El-Arilh. It was obvious that, the 
Turks having received no direct intelligence of thefe events from 
thofe who were in their confidence, an entire belief ought not to 
have been attached to the rumours thus circulated, yet the alarm 
they excited had the good effecl: of keeping our allies more on the 
alert than ufual, and of inducing them to fend out advanced parties. 
Accordingly, on the 20th, new reports having reached the Vizier 
from El-Arilh, that the enemy's forces were in motion, and that a 
part of them had already reached Catieh, Captain Leake of the royal 
artillery was detached, with a party mounted on hedgins, or drome- 
daries, to reconnoitre the enemy. 

We learned at this time that Mahomed Pacha was bufily engaged 
in levying heavy contributions on the villages, and in the vicinity 
of Jerufalem. From the flate of feveral of thefe villages, however, 
when we palfed through them on our late excurfion to Jerufalem, 
this appeared to be a tafk not very ealy in its accomplilhment. 

The doubts which had been exprelTed by the Pacha fome days 
before, refpeding the advance of the enemy, in great force, on El- 
Arilh, were confirmed on the 24th, when it was afcertained, that 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 191 

the fmall body of French which had advanced to Catieh, confifted 
merely of a reconnoitring party, which had retired, after having 
plundered the Arab inhabitants of that place of a few of their 
camels. 

The difficulty of obtaining a precife knowledge of facts and oc- 
currences at the ftation we occupied, arofe from the interpoution of 
a defert between the enemy and the Ottoman army, which obliged 
the Turkilh commanders to liften to the reports made by the Arabs, 
until they could obtain intelligence on which a more full reliance 
could be placed. 

There had been latterly frequent defertions, both from the great 
encampment at Jaffa, and from that of El-Arifh. It ought, not- 
withstanding, to be obferved, that thefe defertions were not to the 
common enemy, but into the interior of the country. It frequently 
happened that the troops went off in large bodies. 

Among other caufes of infubordination, gaming had found its 
way into the Turkilh camp, and was more particularly prevalent 
among the Arnauts, who would not defift from this vicious practice, 
notwithstanding it was in direct violation of public orders. We faw 
the bodies of feveral of thefe people, who had, as we underftood, 
been decapitated for the above offence, lying in the Streets of the 
encampment, with the head placed under the arm, the mode cuf- 
tomarily practifed after the decapitation of MufTulmen. When a 
Frank is beheaded, he is denied the privilege of having the head 
placed under the arm ; instead of which it is placed between the 
legs, with the face towards the body. 

On the 25th, in taking a folitary ride, at a little distance from 



1 92 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

the camp two mots were fired, which came in my direction, but 
which fortunately miffed me. The general and myfelf rode out in 
the evening to the fpot whence they were directed, and made the 
neceffary enquiries, which, however, proved ineffectual. . 

The Pacha of Aleppo, whofe dignity was announced by his being 
decorated with three tails,, arrived at the encampment on the 26th, 
with a body of cavalry and infantry, amounting, it was fuppofed, to 
about a thoufand men. 

The advices which had been received from El-Arifh, reflecting 
the formidable movements of the French forces, were conjectured 
to have been merely a ftratagem of the troops encamped at that 
place, to obtain from the Vizier the liquidation of the arrears of 
their pay, which had long been due. Suppofing this conjecture to 
have been well founded, the ftratagem had its full effect, as the 
Vizier fhortly after forwarded thither two hundred purfes. 

Several veffels, which, in confequence of the late violent gales, 
had been obliged to flip their cables in the road-ftead of Jaffa, and 
had fought refuge at Caiffa, the port next to Acre, returned on the 
27th, laden with barley, the daily confumption of which, at the 
Turkifh camp, was faid to amount to fix hundred kiloes, each con- 
taining twenty -two okes ; or, to fpeak with more precifion to the 
Englifh reader, fifteen tons of that object of prime neeeffity were, 
according to this computation, confumed daily by the cattle. 

The gales ftill continued with unabated feverity, and on the 28th 
the wind blew with unufual violence from the north and north-eaft. 
It might have been expected that the Turkifh camp, however replete 
with the germes of peftilence, would have been in fome degree 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 193 

ventilated by thefe fearching winds ; it is, however, but too true, 
that the mortality occafioned by the plague, was at this time in an 
increafing ratio, and that many of the troops daily fell victims to its 
attacks. 

The officers belonging to the miffion, dined by invitation, in the 
Turkifti ftyle, on the 30th, with his Excellency the Reis Effendi. In 
the rear of the ground on which the miffion was encamped, an affray 
took place in the evening among the Turkifh foldiers, in which feveral 
of the combatants were wounded. 

Advices were at this time brought to camp that Mahomed Pacha, 
who, as has been before noticed, had been employed in the interior 
in exacting heavy and arbitrary contributions, had met with a formi- 
dable refiflance from the inhabitants of Nablous, and of the adjacent 
villages, by whom he had been defeated with confiderable lofs, after 
various fkirmifhes, which had continued for four days fucceffively. 
Having alfo received a check from the inhabitants of the villages bor- 
dering on Jerufalem, he had at length been obliged to retreat towards 
Hebron. 

The Englifh Hoop of war the Camelion, Captain Maitland, arrived 
at Jaffa in the night of .the 2d of December ; and, on the following 
morning, Colonel Murray, deputy quarter- mailer- general to the forces 
under the command of Sir Ralph Abercfombie, came to the camp, 
with the very fatisfactory intelligence of the approach of a confiderable 
Britifh force. From this information we were encouraged to hope 
that the painful fituation of the miffion would be fpeedily alleviated 
by the adoption of more active meafures, which would bring the 
affairs in this part of the world to a fpeedy conclufion. 



194 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, ' 

Captain Maitland, of the Camelion, having been advifed that a fuf~ 
picious brig had been obferved for feveral days pafl hovering off El- 
Arifh, failed on the evening of the 3d, in hopes of falling in with her. 

The plague continued to make great ravages in the Turkifh camp, 
and was not, as before, confined to the Mamelukes and Albanians, but 
had become general among every defcription of the troops. It was 
impoffible to form a precife idea of the mortality it occafioned ; but 
from what we witnefTed, we had reafon to conjecture that an hun- 
dred individuals perifhed daily from this complaint. The Turkifh 
ranks were alfo greatly thinned by the defertions-, which were effected 
in large bodies, to prevent the paffage from being difputed by a fmall 
guard purpofely ftationed about three miles from the camp, on the 
road leading to Acre and Damafcus* 

General Koehler, Colonel Murray, and all the officers of the miflion, 
were invited to be prefent at a Turkifh field-day, on the 4th. The 
troops, confifting of about fix thoufand, went through nearly the fame 
manoeuvres with thofe which have been already defcribed. 

The Camelion, having on board Major Fletcher and Captain Leake,, 
arrived on the afternoon of the 7th, from El-Arifh, without having 
fallen in with the fufpicious brig, in quefl of which fhe had failed 
from Jaffa. 

I am compelled here to interrupt the order of my narrative of 
general occurrences, to fpeak particularly of the fituation of the miffion 
at the period on which I am entering. On the 5th of the prefent 
month, December, Geary, a military artificer, was attacked by fymp- 
toms of malignant fever, to which he fell a victim on the 10th in the 
afternoon. His death was foon followed by other fimilar difafters ; 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 195 

for, on the night following the day of his deceafe, Mace, a civil arti- 
ficer, was feized with fymptoms which very fpeedily announced the 
difeafe to be a true cafe of the plague. Under this attack he funk at 
nine in the morning of the 12th, after an illnefs of little more than 
twenty-four hours. This fatal cafe was fucceeded by that of gunner 
Cowden, one of the artillery-men, who was attacked on the evening 
of the 13th, with fymptoms fimilar to the above, and languifhed until 
the afternoon of the 1 8th, the fixth day of the attack, when he expired. 
In both of thefe cafes feveral peftilential tumours were manifeft. It 
will be feen, in the Medical Appendix annexed to this work, that, 
under thefe alarming and calamitous circumftances, none of the pre- 
cautions which prudence could fuggeft were neglected, to prevent the 
further fpreading of the contagion. 

The fatal illnefs of Mrs. Koehler, wife of the general, was of a more 
lingering kind than thofe related above. On the feventh day of the 
month me was attacked by fymptoms of malignant fever, which did 
not yield to any of the curative means employed, but manifefled in 
their progrefs an increafed virulence. On the 13th fhe was conveyed 
from the encampment to the town of Jaffa, where a lodging had been 
provided for her ; and died there on the 14th, in the afternoon. Her 
affectionate and inconfolable hufband, the general, did not long fur- 
vive her lofs. He was feized nearly in the fame manner on the morn- 
ing of the 26th ; and, having quitted the encampment, fent his fecre- 
tary immediately after to Colonel Holloway, the next in command, 
to fay that he was gone to Jaffa indifpofed. The malignance of the 
fever by which he had been attacked, added to the melancholy into 
which he had been plunged by his recent lofs, very fpeedily terminated 

c c 2 



196 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

his earthly career. He died on the evening of the 2Qth, the fourth 
day of the attack ; and was buried on the following afternoon with 
military honours. 

Here let me paufe for a moment, to reflect on the fad pofition of 
thofe who were left to lament his lofs, and to deplore the calamitous 
events of a fimilar kind which had followed each other in fo quick a 
fucceffion. The plague at this juncture raged with the utmoft vio- 
lence in the Turkifh camp, and had, as has already been feen (as well 
as a fever which appeared fcarcely lefs malignant) commenced its ra- 
vages in our fmall party, in which a general indifpofition prevailed. 
We had loft our chief, who had fallen a victim to difeafe ; and each 
of us trembled for himfelf, and for the friends and affociates by whom 
he was environed. It would be difficult to conceive a (ituation of 
more imminent peril * than that in which we were placed, and it is 
impoffible to defcribe the painful fenfations by which each individual 
was agitated. It was fufficient that a new cafe of illnefs, from what- 
ever caufe it might have arifen, was announced, to fill us with the 
molt agonizing pangs, the molt heart-rending apprehenfions ! — In the 
mean time, a vigilant and unremitted attention was paid to whatever 
could ltay the progrefs of infection ; fumigations were, among a va- 
riety of means, employed in each of the tents, and the fick, as well 
as the attendants, feparatcd from the reft of the people. In each of 
the cafes which had terminated fatally, the clothes, bedding, and, in 
general, whatever had been employed for the fervice of the deceafcd, 
were immediately burned. 

* This peril was augmented by the neceffity of attending, at fo awful a crifis, on the 
Vizier. Thirty-fix of his family and retinue had already fallen victims to this fat;d 
difeafe, which was faft gaining ground in his Highnefs's quarters.. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 197 

My narrative recommences on the 8th of December, when the 
officers belonging to the million, with Colonel Murray, the deputy 
quarter-mafter-general, whofe arrival in the camp I have already an- 
nounced, had the Angular honour of dining with the Grand Vizier. 
His Highnefs was in uncommonly good fpirits, in confequence of his 
having that morning received a firman from the Sultan, accompanied, 
among other prefents, by that of a beautiful handjar, or dagger, the 
hilt of which was fet with diamonds of great brilliancy. On this par- 
ticular occafion a royal falute was fired ; and his Highnefs's magni- 
ficent tent fpread, to receive the firman, or letter, and to difplay the 
prefents. 

Our dinner was entirely in the Turkifh ftyle, and of courfe confifted 
of the beft difhes the country could fupply, prepared with the moft 
confummate addrefs. The polite and friendly attentions of the Vizier, 
who paid many compliments to his Englifh guefts, gave them a ftill 
higher relifh ; and we departed with the moft fatisfactory impreffions 
of his kind and undifguifed hofpitality. On our return home, his 
Highnefs fent each of us a prefent of a fiiawl and a piece of filk. The 
general received alfo a gift of a fnufF-box, ornamented with diamonds. 

The fame party, with the exception of the general, who abfented 
himfelf on account of Mrs. Koehler's indifpofition, dined on the 11th 
with the Kia Bey. On proceeding up the camp, to repair to his tent, 
we were invited by the Vizier to fee the Turkifh practice of cutting 
a large roll of felt, nearly ten inches in diameter, moiftened, and fuf- 
pended by a cord. On this roll of felt feveral good cuts were made, 
but one only by which it was completely fevered into two parts. This 
extraordinary atchievement, to effect which mull have required great 



198 TRAVFXS IN ASIATIC "TURKEY, 

addrefs combined w ith a long practice, was rewarded by a fuitable 
prefent. 

We found the Kia Bey to be a very agreeable and pleafant man, of 
about forty-five years of age. Before and after our dinner, which was 
ferved up with much tafte and neatnefs, pipes, coffee, and other re- 
frefhments, were handed to us ; and no attention fpared to demon- 
ftrate the kind and friendly difpofition of our hoft. 

Colonel Murray embarked on the 1 3th on board the Camelion floop 
of war for Macri. He was accompanied by Major Fletcher, of the 
royal engineers, charged with difpatches to Sir Ralph Abercrombie. 

On the 15th the Vizier fhifted the fite of his encampment to a 
fpot on the other fide of Jaffa, diftant about an hour's journey, or 
three miles, from the ancient ground. His Highnefs, and principal 
officers, accompanied by the different corps of troops under their re- 
fpeclive commanders, moved with great ceremony to occupy the new 
ground of encampment. We followed his example on the 16th, and 
pitched our tents on an eminence, covered with a white and clear 
fand, and commanding a fine view of the fea. 

The Turkifh fick, who were very numerous, and among whom fo 
great a mortality prevailed, that, on the morning of the 15th, no lefs 
than fifty dead bodies paffed in front of our encampment, were left 
behind. Many thoufands of men, alas ! had already perifhed, and 
many others were ftill doomed to deflruclion, through the fuperfli- 
tious prejudices and culpable neglect of their rulers, who had fpumed 
at every admonition to take the neceffary precautions for their fafety. 
The ground which the Turkifh foldiery had quitted, exhibited a me- 
lancholy fcene, the horrors of which were heightened by the great 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 199 

numbers of carcafes of camels, horfes, affes, and dogs (among whom 
alfo an epidemical difeafe had recently broken out), with which the 
earth was abundantly ftrewed. It was now left to vomit forth the 
abundance of putrid animal matter with which it had been fo long 
furcharged. 

On our fixing ourfelves on the new ground of encampment, fo 
much firing was kept up by the Turkifh military, the balls from 
whofe pieces frequently fell within the camp of the miffion, that 
General Koehler found it neceffary to make an official reprefentation 
of this abufe to the Vizier and Reis Effendi. The refult of this mea- 
fure was, that a guard of janifiaries was placed on the left of the 
camp ; but no fooner was the miffion relieved from one inconveni- 
ence, than it was followed by another of a more alarming nature, 
the commander of the guard falling a victim to the plague a few 
days after. 

On the ] 7th, three bodies were feen lying in the flreets of the 
new camp, with the head placed under one of the arms. This 
Turkifh cuftom, in the punifhment of criminals, has been already 
explained. 

The Englifh hofpital tent, which had been left on the old ground 
of encampment, with the plague patient, Cowden, on whofe cafe 
I touched in a late digreffion, was attempted to be robbed by a party 
of Arabs. The guard in attendance fired on thefe mifcreants, who 
could not be deterred from their predatory purfuits by the rifk even, 
of encountering fo dreadful a difeafe. 

At this time an incident occurred which difplays the extreme heed- 
lefTnefs of the Turks. Major Hope, commanding the artillery, went 



200 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

to the Topgis Bafhi, or chief of artillery, to give him fome inftruclions 
relative to the Turkifh ordnance. One of the topgis, or artillery- 
men, brought a live fliell into the tent in which this bufinefs was 
tranfacting, to mow the priming and quick match, which he placed 
clofe to the pipes of thofe who were fmoking, and, with a thorough 
infenfibility of his own danger, and of the rifk to which he expofed 
all the ammunition in the park of artillery, drew out his knife to open 
the match. So little attention do thefe people pay to confequences, 
that he would, in the fame way, have brought in a cartridge of 
powder, if the major had not prevented him. Plate IX. contains an 
exacl: reprefentation of the coflume of a Topgis Bafhi, or commandant 
of Turkifh artillery. 

On the evening of the 1 gth the fick were removed to the new en- 
campment, where they were placed under the fame ftrid: and fevere 
quarantine as before. 

An Englifh gun-boat arrived at Jaffa on the 27th from Gibraltar. 
She brought advices, that the fleet ftationed off Malta had captured 
three veffels richly laden out of Alexandria, at which place nearly 
fixty fail, having on board property deftined for France, were making 
preparations for their departure. The gun-boat failed in the evening 
for the coaft of Egypt. ■ 

The death of General Koehler, our highly lamented and equally 
refpedled chief, occurred, as I have already ftated, on the 29th of the 
prefent month. On the 30th, after all the honours due to the rank 
and importance of the deceafed had been paid to his revered obfequies, 
Lieutenant Colonel Holloway, on whom the command of the miffion 
devolved, fent meffages to the Grand Vizier, the Kia Bey, the Reis 



Pl>.lX . 




FiibUshedMarch I. l8o 3 *b>, B Phillips 7/. S!Patdy Church Yard . 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 201 

Effendi, and the Tefterdar Effendi, to announce to them, refpectively 
and individually, the melancholy event. He at the fame time re- 
queued an audience of the Grand Vizier, which took place on the fol- 
lowing day, the 31 ft, when he announced his fituation officially. 
He was accompanied, on this occafion, by Major Hope, who was 
acknowledged by the Vizier as fecond in command ; and, after many 
compliments had been paid to each of thefe officers, the former was 
invefted with a fable pelice, and the latter with a pelice of ermine. 

On the lft of January, 1801, I paid a vifit to the Reis Effendi, 
with whom I had a long converfation relative to the precautions to 
be taken to prevent the further progrefs of infection. He imparted 
to me the pleafing intelligence, that the camp was more healthy than, 
it had been, the plague having in a great meafure ceafed. 

Colonel Hollo way urged the Vizier, on the 2d, to make fuch pre- 
parations as the expediency of the circumftances feemed to require, 
and, among others, to eftablifli magazines of provifions and ammu- 
nition at El-Arifh. 

In the afternoon, while the fervants of Colonel Holloway and 
Major Hope were exercifing the horfes of their mailers, they were 
attacked by a party of plundering Arabs, by whofe fire the Colonel's 
horfe was killed, and his fervant w T ounded with balls and flugs in 
nine different places. By the exertions of his companion the wounded 
man was brought off ; and the balls and flugs afterwards extracted by 
me. On this outrage being communicated to the Vizier, he gave 
orders that the moft ftrict inquiry fhould be made after the culprits. 

On the 3d a difpute took place at Jaffa, between a Janiffary and a 

D D 



202 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

Dehli, in which one of the parties was killed. On this event being 
made known, the two corps reforted to arms, and drew up in oppo 1 - 
fition to each other with fo menacing an afpect, that it required the 
utmoft exertion on the part of the Vizier to prevent the mod ferious 
confequences from enfuing. 

The effective force of the Turkifh army confifted at this time of 
about fixteen thoufand men, who were diftributed as follows: ten 
thoufand in the Vizier's encampment ; two thoufand at Gaza ; and 
four thoufand at El-Arifh. 

In a converfation with the Reis Effendi on the Oth, he informed 
me that, notwithstanding cafes of plague ftill occurred in the Ottoman 
camp, the difeafe was become much milder, and confequently lefs 
fatal in its effects, infomuch that feveral of thofe who had been re- 
cently attacked, had recovered. The fame circumftance has been 
known to occur at Conftantinople when the difeafe was upon the 
decline. 

The Camelion Hoop of war arrived at Jaffa on the morning of the 
Qth, with General Moore, Captain Anderfon, his aid-du-camp, and 
Mr. Morier, fecretary to Lord Elgin, all of them from the Britifh 
army. They had an immediate audience with the Grand Vizier and 
Reis Effendi, to whom they were the bearers of important difpatches. 
We learned from them, with much fatisfaction, that the whole of the 
Britifh forces had reached Marmarice Bay in good health and fpirits. 

The bodies of feveral perfons who had died of the plague, eight of 
them from the Vizier's own particular camp, were on the 10th car- 
ried for interment in our view. To demonftratc, however, that the 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 203 

difeafe was mitigated in its effects, the Reis Effendi flated, that of five 
of the flaves of the Grand Vizier who had been latterly attacked by 
this difeafe, three had recovered. 

On the 1 2th I rode acrofs the plains of Jaffa and Lydda, in company 
with Captain Maitland, of the Camelion, and feveral of his officers. 
We approached the town of Lydda, or Loudda, and faw the Arab 
inhabitants bufily employed in fowing their barley. The foil of thefe 
fine and extenfive plains is a rich black mould, which, with proper 
care and induftry, might be rendered extremely fertile. 

Dr. Bofari, phyfician to the Grand Vizier, died of the plague on 
the morning of the 13th, being the third day of the attack. 

General Moore, his aid-du-camp, and Mr. Morier, left Jaffa on the 
14th, to rejoin the Britifh army. During his flay at the encamp- 
ment, the General had, as well as Colonel Holloway, daily conferences 
with the Vizier and Ottoman minifters. Our expectations were, that 
we were to remain with the Turkifh army, which it was thought 
would very foon break ground, either to co-operate with the Britifh 
forces, or to attack the common enemy at fuch points as fhould be 
found advifable in the fequel. 

The Cynthia {loop of war, Captain Dick, arrived at Jaffa on the 
morning of the 15th, with difpatches from Alexandria, which were 
immediately fent on more. She failed in the evening with difpatches, 
to join the fleet commanded by Admiral Lord Keith, lying in the bay 
of Marmarice, and was to touch at Cyprus on her way. 

The Turkifh Ramazan, a folemn faff already defcribed, commenced 
on the evening of the lOth. No fooner was the new moon, by which 

D D 2 



2o 4 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

it was introduced, defcried, than a general difcharge of cannon, mus- 
ketry, and piftols, was heard in every part of the camp, to announce 
the event. 

L'Entreprenant, an Englifh cutter, arrived at Jaffa on the 21 ft, 
with difpatches from Admiral Lord Keith. Among the papers con- 
taining intelligence which were received by this channel from Cairo, 
was a printed proclamation of General Menou. 

Further intelligence from Cairo was received on the 23d, by a 
Greek merchant, who had left that place eighteen days before ; and 
alfo by a confidential Arab, fent by Mahomed Elphi Bey. The latter 
had patted through Cairo and Salahieh, both of which places the 
enemy were employed in fortifying, more efpecially the latter, for the 
defence of which they had recently fent feveral pieces of heavy ord- 
nance. He eftimated their force at about twelve thoufand French, 
and from two to three thoufand native troops, diflributed in thefe 
places and their vicinity. This Arab was the bearer of a note from 
Mahomed Elphi Bey to the officer commanding the Britilh miffion. 

I rode out, in the morning of the fame day, towards Lydda, the 
ancient city of Loudda, where Peter, the difciple of our Lord, healed 
the aged iEneas, who laboured under a paralytic complaint ; and 
whence he proceeded to Joppa, the Jaffa of modern times, to effecl: 
a miraculous cure by reftoring to life Tabitha, or, as me was other- 
wife called, Dorcas, a pious and good woman. Lydda is denominated 
by the Greeks Diofpolis, or the city of Jupiter, probably becaufe a 
temple had been dedicated in its vicinity to that deity. Since the 
crufades it has received from the Chriftians the name of St. George, 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 205 

on account of its having been the fcene of the martyrdom and burial 
of that faint. In this city tradition reports that the Emperor Jufti- 
nian erected a church. 

On the 25th the confidential Arab, to whom I referred above, left 
the camp with the reply of Colonel Holloway to the note of Mahomed 
Elphi Bey. Frefh difturbances broke out among the Janiflaries on 
the following day. 

The Vizier proceeded with great ceremony on the 27th, to vifit the 
new baftion, which was now completed. To give a greater eclat to 
this event, he, with his own hands, laid hold of the ropes to get in 
the guns, and then feated himfelf on the rampart, to fee them placed 
in the embrazures. As foon as the firfr. gun had been laid on its plat- 
form, a folemn prayer was repeated by the Turkim priefts. Pel ices 
were afterwards prefented to Colonel Holloway and Major Hope, 
together with feveral caftans to the Turkifh officers who were in 
attendance. 

There was fo violent a florin on the 2Qth, that feveral of our tents 
were blown down. It blew moll tremendoufly during the nigHt, and 
was accompanied by thunder, lightning, and hail. 

The three fick who were lodged in the lazaretto-tent being per- 
fectly recovered, were releafed from their confinement on the 31 ft. 
Previoufly to their joining the camp, their clothes and bedding were, 
together with the tent, committed to the flames ; in addition to which 
precaution, they were made to wafh themfelves in the fea. 

On the lft of February there was a riot among the JanhTaries, for 
which feveral caufes were affigned, and, among others, the want of 
forage for their horfes. In the midfi: of their difcontent, they were, 



2o6 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

they faid, willing to agree to two things, namely, that the Englifh 
mould have bai ley for their horfes, becaufe they were good friends ; 
and that the horfes which drew the guns fhould alfo be furniihed with 
provender, as fuch a fupply was neceffary to the public fervice : but 
they could not confent that any part of what was in ftore mould be 
iflued for the ufe of the great officers of ftate, as they could afford to 
make the requifite purchafes. 

The Vizier being indifpofed, I was defired to vifit him, and found 
him laid up with fymptoms of a fevere cold. He requeued of me to 
fee him from time to time ; and, on my repeating my vifit on the fol- 
lowing day, I obferved that he laboured under a great depreffion of 
fpirits, which he acknowledged to have arifen from the operation on 
his mind of the frequent difficulties he had had to encounter. Among 
thefe, the gales of wind which had recently prevailed had forced the 
veffels laden with barley, and other fupplies of ftores and provifions 
for the Turkifh army, to quit their anchorage ; and had alfo prevented 
the arrival of other veffels, as had been expected. In this way a fear- 
city had been occafioned, by which the Vizier had been fruftrated in 
his intention of making a movement, however ftrongly he was urged 
to do fo by the exifting circumftances. 

Captain Lacy was dilpatched to El-Arifh on the 2d, to collecl 
military information. 

The weather was at this time become fettled and pleafant, attended 
by the land breeze, which, fetting in towards evening, furniflied an 
indubitable token of its continuance. The country in the vicinity of 
the encampment began to wear a fmiling appearance, and, in con- 
fequence of the late heavy rains, was covered with a fine verdure, 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 207 

which overfpread even what had been hitherto merely arid and fandy 
hills. 

Intelligence was received from Cairo, on the 5th, which ftated, 
among other particulars, that the plague had broken out among the 
French troops, fixty of whom perifhed daily from its attacks. It 
gave me great fatisfaclion, at the fame time, to learn from the Reis 
Effendi, that this formidable adverfary had nearly difappeared among 
the Turkifh foldiery. 

The New Adventure tranfport had arrived from CaifFa, and, toge- 
ther with a confiderable number of velTels laden with barley, and 
other ftores for the army, lay at anchor off" Jaffa. A reinforcement 
of troops had alfo reached that place by fea ; and a corps of about a 
hundred and fifty Arnauts arrived in the camp, after an overland 
march, on the 6th. Thefe arrivals induced the Vizier to make 
fome preparations for marching. The Kai Bey having been ordered 
to Conftantinople, the Tefterdar was, on the fame day, appointed 
Kai Bey in his ftead. 

The Vizier tranfmitted information to Colonel Holloway on the 
7 th, that in the fpace of ten days he mould march forward with his 
army. 

On the 8th a body of Arnauts, in marching into the camp, made 
the ufual difcharges of mulketry, the confequence of which was, 
that, to our great annoyance and manifefl: peril, feveral of their fhots 
palled clofe over the encampment of the million. This irregularity, 
accompanied by much fhouting and tumult, was continued through.- 
out the whole of the evening- 
Letters were received on the 11th and 13th from Captain Lacy, 



2 o8 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

at El-Arifh. They ftated, that the enemy were bufied at Cairo in 
conflrucling towers, or detached redoubts, provided with heavy artil- 
lery ; and were alfo eredting other works, on which a great number 
of perfons were employed. At the date of his letters the plague ftill 
prevailed with great violence in the camp at El-Arifh. 

The feftival of the Biram, which commenced on the 13th, on the 
completion of the Turkifh Ramazan, or lent, and the celebration of 
which was to laft during three days, was announced by the Vizier 
by the difcharge of feveral rounds of artillery, accompanied by fre- 
quent difcharges of mufketry throughout the whole extent of the 
camp. In the evening brilliant illuminations were difplayed. 

On the above feftive occafion, the whole of the following day, the 
14 th, was fpent by the great officers of ftate, and other Turks, in 
making vifits of ceremony, and in demonftrating, in every poffible 
way, the joy they felt at being no longer fubjedted to the penalties 
of the Ramazan, or faft. 

In a henke, or entertainment, which the Vizier commanded for 
the 15th, he was accompanied by all his principal officers of ftaic, 
and by at leaft one thoufand perfons, who joined in the cavalcade. 
The troops, whofe numbers appeared to have been latterly much 
augmented, were drawn up in a line ; and a tent pitched, in which 
the Vizier, the principal Turkifh officers, Colonel Holloway, and 
Major Hope, were feated. A djerid party having been affembled, 
upwards of fifty combatants on each fide fupported the different 
attacks with great fpirit, agility, and addrefs. Unfortunately, one of 
them received fo ferious a hurt, that he was obliged to be carried off 
the field. In this military exercife, into a concife explanation of 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 209 

which I have already entered, it fometimes happens that one of the 
opponents, in riding full fpeed after the other, lances his ftick, or 
wand, with fuch force and adroitnefs, that the latter, however dex- 
terous he may be, is unable either to lay hold of it, or to parry off 
the blow. In fuch a cafe he is inevitably ftruck with fo much vio- 
lence, as to be obliged to have recourfe to cupping, to relieve him- 
felf from the effects of the fevere bruifes he has received. In this 
way it was that the Vizier fome years before unfortunately loft an 
eye, which was beaten out by one of his own attendants. To this 
unlucky circumftance I adverted, when I gave, in the preceding 
pages, a defcription of this diftinguifhed perfonage ; but I did not 
relate an anecdote which refulted from the accident, and which, 
as it clearly indicates a humane and feeling difpofition, fuch as, it is 
to be regretted, few Turks poffefs, is a trait in the Vizier's character 
which ought to be recorded. He fent, on the following day, for the 
individual by whom he had been wounded, and, on his being brought 
before him, made him a valuable prefent, requefting, at the fame 
time, that he would never again appear in his prefence, left it mould 
remind him of his misfortune. 

In returning to the ground of the encampment, the proceffion 
moving in the fame order as in fetting out, a corps of Turkifh 
cavalry, Dehlis, galloped forward, and took polTeffion of a height. 
A fham attack being made on them, a heavy firing of mufketry and 
piftols, difcharged in the air, was kept up, the balls with which they 
were charged flying, as ufual, in every direction. 

Among the new levies which were daily pouring in to the Turkifh 
camp, w r ere feveral individuals who had fuffered an amputation of 

£ E 



210 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

the nofe. This being the punifhment inflicled by Djezzar Pacha at 
Acre, plainly indicated whence they came. 

A Pacha, with a corps of about four hundred men, arrived in the 
camp on the 16th. The miffion about this time fufFered great 
inconvenience from the difficulty of procuring a neceffary fupply of 
provifions. 

On the 20th, Captain Leake was ordered to hold himfelf in readi- 
nefs to proceed with difpatches to the commander in chief; and on 
the following day the JanifTaries, with another party of troops, 
marched from the camp, on their way to Yebna — a fufficient indi- 
cation that the adlive military operations were on the eve of com- 
mencing. * 

Several other detachments quitted the encampment on the 23d ; 
and we were ordered to hold ourfelves in readinefs for the 25th in 
the morning, beyond which time the march of the Vizier, with the 
remainder of his army, was not to be delayed. 

In quitting Jaffa, fome defcription of the country in which we 
had refided for fuch a length of time may reafonably be expected 
from me, in addition to the information I have already been enabled 
to give, in detailing the particulars of my occafional excurfions from 
the camp. I mall therefore clofe the prefent chapter with a brief 
fketch of the moft interefting particulars I was able to colled, dur- 
ing my flay in this part of Syria ; and fhall afterwards refume my 
narrative of general occurrences, which will thus have furTered only 
a momentary interruption. 

A general idea of the climate of Syria may be formed from the 
following particulars : — During our ftay there, the thermometer, in 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 211 

the months of July, Augufl:, and September, marked the higheft, in 
the afternoons, from ninety-three to ninety-five degrees of Fahrenheit. 
It is unneceffary to remark, that during this interval the heat was 
extremely oppreffive to fuch of our party as had not been inured to 
the more fultry climes. The fky was, at the above feafon, beauti- 
fully clear, without a cloud to obfcure the wide expanfe ; and the 
atmofphere pure and benign. The greateft variation of temperature 
occurred in the months of October and November, when the rains 
came on fuddenly with fome degree of violence. This may properly 
be confidered as the rainy feafon, fince, generally fpeaking, during 
the other parts of the year a drought prevails. The very copious 
dews which fall in the dry months, when there is a total abfence of 
rain, promote and forward the vegetation. 

During the fummer months the prevailing winds are from the 
north and north-weft. In entering on October, they are more vari- 
able, blowing ftrongly from the fouth, fouth-eaft, and eaft. It is at 
this time that the fudden and heavy Ihowers commence, and that 
the fky, which was before fo uniformly clear, is overfpread with dark 
and heavy clouds. At length, the month of November drawing 
towards its clofe, the rains ceafe to fall, and the weather becomes 
pleafant and falubrious. The refult of my obfervations at this feafon 
was, that before fun-rife the thermometer ranged from 42 to 52 and 
53, and that, confequently, the mornings were refreming and cool. 
At noon the variations of the thermometer were from 66 to 76, with 
a degree of heat which was by no means oppreffive. 

On the coaft of Syria the fea breeze prevails during the day time, 

E e 2 



2i2 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

and, falling in the evening, gives place to the gentle land breeze, 
which continues to blow until about nine the next morning. 

In the month of December, 1 800, the January following, and 
a part of February, the weather was very tempeftuous, with heavy 
rains, vivid lightnings, and thunders, the explofion of which was 
awful and tremendous. During this period the thermometer was 
low ; and, on one occafion, the ftorm was accompanied by hail. 
The winds were ufually from the fouth or fouth-weil. A hazinefs 
from the fouthward was the fure precurfor of each of the gales ; and 
to this indication of foul weather was fuperadded a remarkably large 
circle, or difk, round the moon. This boifterous and comparatively 
cold weather was highly favourable to the health of the individuals 
belonging to the miffion. It yielded, about the 10th of February, 
to a more warm and fettled temperature of the air, which, bellowing 
on the arid hills fome flight degree of verdure, rendered the afpect 
of the country more cheerful. 

Syria may in general be confidered as a mountainous country ; but 
the part bordering on Jaffa has feveral very extenfive plains, which 
are interfered, at certain diftances, with moderate heights. In ap- 
proaching Jerufalem, after having proceeded to the other fide of 
Ramla, the mountains are very lofty, and, having but a (lender 
luperficies of earth to cover their rocky prominences, are exclufively 
adapted to the cultivation of olive-trees, which take root in their very 
clefts, and hide the naked appearance they would otherwife exhibit. 

In general the country is but thinly covered with trees, and has 
few woods, or thickets. In the parts where there is no texture of 
foil, but merely a white loofe fand, not a tree nor fhrub is to be feem 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 

To the north fide of Jaffa, a fmall river, which empties itfelf into 
the fea, prefents itfelf at the diftance of two or three miles. It is 
the only one which I met with in Syria : it is probable, however, 
that others may have been formed, fubfequently to the excurfions I 
made into the interior, by the abundant falls of rain I have had occa- 
fion to notice. 

From the information I was able to collect, as well as from my 
own perfonal obfervation, I could not learn that either mines or 
eruptions of volcanic matter are to be met with in Syria. 

The foil in many parts, in thofe more efpecially bordering on the 
deferts, confifts almoft exclufively of a fine white fand, the reflection 
from which is extremely painful to the fight. This barren territory 
extends, to the northward, beyond Jaffa. It contains, however, in 
common with the other parts of Syria, feveral fertile fpots, covered 
with a rich black mould, which very copioufly repay the labour 
beftowed on them. On the rocky grounds an inconfiderable portion 
,of calcareous earth is found blended with marl. 

Wherever the land is fufceptible of cultivation, and has not been 
neglected, it affords abundant crops of wheat, barley, Indian corn 
(dourra), tobacco, cotton, and other productions. Fruits and vege- 
tables are in equal abundance. Among the former are pomegranates, 
figs, oranges, lemons, citrons of an uncommonly large fize, melons, 
grapes, and olives. The melons are large, and have a delicious 
flavour ; as have alfo the grapes, of which we partook fo late as the 
month of December, when we found they ftill retained their exqui- 
fite flavour. I have already adverted to the uncommon fize of the 
water-melons, many of which weigh from twenty to thirty pounds. 



2i 4 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

They are a great and valuable refource to the inhabitants, who are 
fo paflionately fond of them, that, during the fummer months, they 
form a great part of their fubfiftence. Notwithftanding they are as 
cooling and refrefliing, as grateful to the tafte, I was furprifed to 
fee the natives eat them in fuch immoderate quantities, without 
experiencing any unpleafant confequences. 

Among the vegetable productions for the table may be ranged the 
coulcas, the okre, or bannier, the coufla, a fpecies of gourd, the to- 
mata, and a kind of bean, which has fome refemblance to our French 
bean. The coulcas is a root brought from Bairout, Acre, Sidon, and 
Damietta, which, when cooked, is in tafte not unlike the potatoe, 
from which it differs in appearance by its darker hue and lefs regular 
Ihape. In its raw ftate it is extremely acrid, and produces on the 
mouth and fauces, when tailed, a fenfation of pricking and fmarting, 
fuch as is caufed, under the fame circumftances, by the Arum root. 
It is confidered by the inhabitants as a w r holefome and agreeable 
vegetable, and., being fcraped and boiled, enters into the compofition 
of many of their dimes. The okre is a fine mucilaginous vegetable, 
which gives an excellent flavour to the foups. 

To the above lift may be added other vegetables, the quality of 
which is excellent, fuch as cabbages, cauliflowers, fpinage, lettuce, 
endive, turnips, cucumbers, radifhes, and onions ; the latter ex- 
tremely mild. Both fruits and vegetables, as well as all other 
marketable commodities, are fold by weight. 

The grounds in Syria are in general open. Where enclofures have 
been attempted, they are fenced in with the prickly pear tree. 

Numerous flocks of goats and fheep arc diftributed over the plains, 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 215 

as well as in the mountainous territory. The tails of the latter are 
uncommonly large, refembling thofe of the fheep of the Cape of Good 
Hope. Many of them have an extraordinary length of ear ; but this 
obfervation applies flill more particularly to the goats, an ear of one 
of which I had the curiofity to meafure, and found it to be nine inches 
in length. The cows and oxen are fmall, and of a reddifh hue : 
large herds of them are driven out in the mornings, to browze in 
the plains, and in thofe parts of the mountainous territory, where a 
fcanty fuperficies of foil, fpread over the rocks, affords a feeble hope 
of pafturage. 

The animal food of the Syrians confifls principally of mutton and 
goat's flefh, and they confume but a very fmall proportion of beef, 
and no veal. They are, indeed, very fparing in their ufe of flefh, 
chiefly confining themfelves in their diet to the vegetable produc- 
tions they have in fuch great abundance, and of fuch excellent 
qualities. 

The horfes are fmall, but fleet, and very fure footed. In their 
choice of them, the Turkifli inhabitants attach themfelves rather to 
the figure and fhowy appearance of the beaft, than to his fleetnefs 
and other ufeful qualities. During our flay in the country, a good 
horfe brought from four to five hundred piaftres, that is, from thirty 
to nearly forty Englifh pounds. 

The mules are very numerous, and of a large breed. This remark 
alfo applies to the affes ; and the latter are much more fwift of pace 
than thofe of England. 

As a beaft of burden, the camel has a remarkable pre-eminence in 
point of utility. The inhabitants being deflitute of carriages for 



2 1 6 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

the conveyance of their merchandife from place to place, fuch 
vehicles being incompatible with the ftate of the roads and country, 
have neceffarily recourfe to this animal, to perform the labours to 
which the mule, from his comparatively diminutive ftature, cannot 
be fubje&ed. This is not the only advantage which has refulted to 
the Syrians, from the pains they have beftowed in the propagation 
of their race of camels, whofe patient endurance of fatigues is only 
to be equalled by the parfimonious fupport which their nature re- 
quires. In crofting the deferts, or in performing other tedious and 
laborious journies where water cannot be procured, they pafs feveral 
days in fucceftion without allaying their thirft ; and make a hard 
and fcanty meal on the fhrubs and bufhes they may chance to en- 
counter on their way, without fubjecting their matters to the neceflity 
of loading them, in addition to their other burdens, with provender 
for their fupport. A fmaller and more llender fpecies of the camel, 
called hedg'm, is mounted by the natives and others, and is capable 
of making a greater progrefs, on a long journey, than a horfe. It 
requires fome habit to be reconciled to its motion, which is, how- 
ever, not fo fatiguing as might be fuppofed from the appearance of 
the animal, for its pace being by long and regular fteps, the rider 
feels a fenfation fimilar to that of being rocked in a cradle.* 

The Syrians are in general of an ordinary ftature, and of a {pare 
thin make, but very active and alert. Their fpeed, both in running 
and walking, is very great ; and being inured as well to privations 



* I do not recollect to have feen, either in Syria or in Egypt, more than one protu- 
berance on the back of the camels, whether hedg'ms or dromedaries, %vhich appear to 
be only a more flender and fmaller fpecies of the camel. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 617 

as to fatigues, they are capable of enduring an extreme toil, with a very 
fcanty fupport, for a confiderable length of time. In this particular 
they have a great refemblance to the Indians of America. Their 
countenances are meagre and wan ; and their complexion fo dark 
as, in a variety of inftances, to approach nearly to black. Their 
hair is of a mining black, and it is worn by the women very long, 
extending even to the waifl. They drefs and decorate it in a very 
fanciful manner, fufpending from it, and round the head, different 
coins, fuch as paras, fequins, and piafires, large bunches of which 
are alfo fufpended from the ears. On the wrifts they wear bracelets 
of coloured glafs. They (lain their nails of an orange colour with 
the henna, and blacken their eyelids with a powder, of which I have 
already fpoken in the details I have given relative to Turkey. 

The inhabitants of Syria are very abftemious in their diet, which 
is fimple in the extreme. It confifts chiefly of falted olives, cheefe 
of a poor and indigeftible quality, a coarfe bread badly baked, and 
formed into flat cakes, and rancid butter, or perhaps oil. They 
rarely indulge themfelves in the ufe of animal food ; but on thefe 
occafions prepare a wholefome, and to many a palatable dim called 
pilaw, by fiewing the flefti with rice. Notwithftanding their 
common beverage is water, a fpirituous compound, called racley y 
made from the fermented hufks and ftalks of grapes, diftilled with 
anifeeds, is imported into Syria from Turkey and Afia, 

During our fray at Jaffa we were well fupplied with fifh, fuch as 
mullets, breams, &c. Our butter we were obliged to procure from 
Jerufalem : it was made without fait, and coft nearly eighteen pence 
Englifh per pound. In every part of the country there is an abun- 

F F 



218 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

dance of fowls ; but we did not meet with either tame ducks, geefe, 
or turkies, with the exception of thofe brought from Cyprus, where 
they are bred in great numbers. 

There are two clafTes of Arabs very different from each other in 
their habits, morals, and ftyle of living. The Fellah, that is the 
farmer, or hufbandman, inhabits the villages, or the detached and 
ifolated dwellings in the plains, under the fubjeclion of a Eey, or, 
perhaps, of a Mameluke, or cachef, who, having been originally a 
flave to one of the Beys, has gained the confidence of his mailer, 
and received not only his freedom, but the government of a certain 
number of villages, on the revenues of which he preys without con- 
troul. In the exercife of his oppreffive acts he is aided by a fubor- 
dinate officer, denominated a gindee. 

Each of the newly appointed cachefs has no fooner enriched him- 
felf by the contributions levied on the produce of the wretched Fel- 
lahs fubjectcd to his domination, than he purchafes fuch of the eftates 
as devolve to the Bey from the original proprietors, either by death 
or forfeiture. Cafes of the latter defcription frequently occur from 
the cupidity of the Bey, who, being aware of the very precarious 
tenure by which he holds his government, feizes, on the flightefl 
pretext, upon all the property within his reach, and has been fre- 
quently known, in the courfe of a fhort and defpotic adminifiration, 
to bring the fame eftate repeatedly to fale. Thus are the Fellahs, 
while they plant and fow, in an uncertain ftate whether the whole 
of the expected produce of their induftry is to be fnatched from 
them by their oppreffor, on the ground of confifcation, or whether 
they are ftill to be allowed the fmall portion of it which the Ava- 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 219 

mas fpare, and to be maintained in the quiet poffeffion of the terri- 
torial property tranfmitted to them by their anceftors. 

To this clafs of Arabs the artizans, domeftics, and in general all 
thofe who conftitute the lower ranks of fociety, in the towns and 
villages, belong. 

With relation both to morals and induftry, the Fellahs have un- 
queftionably an advantage over the Bedouins, or wandering tribes of 
Arabs. Being ftationary, and acquiring by their labour and induftry 
the little which is requifite to fatisfy their wants, they have not been 
{Simulated to the predatory purfuits by which the latter have 
rendered themfelves formidable and obnoxious to fociety. In the 
midft of the abjecl (late in which they live, they have on fome occa- 
sions evinced that they are not deftitute of courage and energy. In 
feveral of the diftricls, more efpecially in thofe of Foua and Demen- 
hour, when the French troops, commanded by Generals Defaix and 
Beliard, penetrated into Upper Egypt and fome parts of Syria, the 
Fellahs manifefted a fpirit of refiftance which the invaders had little 
reafon to expect. In the relation which the French artift, Denon, 
who accompanied the above detachments, has publifhed, the vigo- 
rous refiftance made by thefe people is recorded, but not with all 
the circumftances by which the tranfaclions were accompanied. It 
is certain, that a detachment of eighty French was put to death in 
the night-time by the inhabitants of Foua, led by a fanatic fheick ; 
and that, on feveral other occafions, they haraffed and annoyed the > 
republican troops, by whom they were at length, with great diffi- 
culty, brought under fubjedKon. 

The wandering Arabs, or Bedouins, who form the other clafs,' are 

F F 2 



220 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

divided into tribes, more or lefs numerous, to each of which diftincl 
limits are affigned. Thefe tribes do not always live in amity toge- 
ther ; and whenever, in confequence of an invafion of limits, or 
fome other caufe of difpute among themfelves, war is declared, 
alliances are formed, in which the policy of the numbers to be 
ranged on each fide is confulted. The weaker tribes, in thefe cafes,, 
do not of courfe neglect to alfociate themfelves with the more 
powerful. The worfr. part of their warfare confifts, however, in the 
attacks they make on travellers, whether in fmall and ifolated parties, 
or in the large bodies formed for protection and defence into cara- 
vans. The Bedouins then betray all the ferocious cruelty of their 
character, which they alfo rnanifeft when they make incurfions into 
the villages of the Arab cultivators. In executing their predatory 
projects, they have even dared to penetrate to the walls of Cairo.. 
The property with which they travel confifts of horfes, camels, and. 
fheep ; and to fcek paflurage for thefe animals, they are constantly 
Ihifting their ground, in the deferts where they have taken up their 
refidence. A clafs of them, however, more fettled than the others,, 
but {till Bedouins, inhabit tents on the borders of the deferts, and 
there cultivate fuch fpots as are favourable to vegetation. 

The fwiftnefs of the mares on which they are mounted was a great 
obftacle to the progrefs of the French, on their penetrating into 
Upper Egypt. Whenever they felt themfelves in fufficient force to 
encounter their enemy, the Bedouins attacked with an entire confi- 
dence that, in cafe of a defeat, they mould be able to effect their 
efcape. It was on this account that the French had recourfe to the 
formation of a corps mounted on dromedaries, which I have already 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. szt 

had occaiion to notice. By the aid of thefe animals, they furprifed 
feveral of the Bedouin tribes in their retreat ; but not without incur- 
ring great rifks in penetrating into the deferts, where they were 
repeatedly expofed to perifh from thirft, the fugitive Arabs leading 
them in a direction contrary to that of the watering places, with the 
pofition of which they alone were acquainted. 

The arms of the Bedouins confift of a mufket, provided with a 
match-lock, Hung round the arm, a fabre, and a long fpear, which, 
they carry in the hand. The latter of thefe weapons they employ 
with great effect, when in purfuit of an enemy. Notwithftanding. 
they are themfelves armed with mufkets, they have a great dread, 
of fire-arms,, and abandon the field to their adverfary, as foon as a few 
of their party are brought down by the balls.. They cannot,, there- 
fore, be deemed formidable, when oppofed to troops fubjected to any 
degree of difcipline ; and are only fo when they encounter, an unpre- 
pared enemy, or one greatly inferior in force.. 

The Arabs in general, whether Bedouins or hufbandmen, are 
expert thieves, and are diftinguifhed alfo by their confummate hypo- 
crify and treachery. Many of the Fellahs have been converted to 
Chriftianity, and have engaged themfelves as domeflics, in which, 
capacity they require a very ftrict government to enfure any thing 
like obedience. They are, however, excellent grooms, bellowing a 
particular attention on the horfes committed to their charge. They 
allow them, in the courfe of the day, two feeds only of barley and 
chopped draw ; and in fupplying them with thefe meals in the morn- 
ing and evening, give them a very fcanty allowance of water. They 



222 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

have certainly good reafons in favour of this fparing regimen, as is 
attefted by the healthinefs and good condition of the Arab horfes. 

The villages in Syria appear to be well peopled ; but it is impof- 
fible to form any correct idea of the general population of the coun- 
try, in confequence of the migrations of its inhabitants from place 
to place, and of the great proportion of them who reflde in tents. 

Such of the Fellahs as have cultivated their lands w ith any fuc- 
cefs, are as careful to conceal their little ftore of riches, as they were 
induftrious in its acquifition. The plea of poverty to which they 
refort, is not, however, in every cafe, equally fuccefsful. The avari- 
cious Pacha, either perfonally, or by the means of his inftruments, 
keeps a watchful eye on each of the cultivators, and endeavours to 
eftimate his means. If there is no plaufible colour or pretext for 
the entire confifcation of the property of an individual on whom the 
fufpicion of riches has fallen, he is called on to contribute a fum 
perhaps very difproportionate to his means, on the default of produc- 
ing which not only his property, but his own life, and thofe of his 
relatives, arc brought into danger. Induftry is thus difcouraged ; 
and to the tyranny exercifed over the wretched cultivators may be 
attributed the neglected ftate of many large tracts of land, which, 
under a better form of government, would be abundantly productive. 

The wooden plough employed here for agricultural purpofes, is 
drawn by a pair of fmall oxen. The barley and wheat are fown in 
January, and reaped in May. In different parts of Syria the inha- 
bitants purfue different modes in the treatment of their vines, which 
in fome places they prune nearly to the furface of the earth, depend- 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 223 

ing on the fpring (hoots for the autumnal produce ; while in others 
they allow them to attain their full growth, fupporting their branches 
with props. The grapes, when ripe, are in general held in too great 
an efteem, as a part of the nourishment of the inhabitants, to be 
converted into wine ; but this is not invariably the cafe. At Jeru- 
falem and Bethlehem we drank fome excellent wine, the produce of 
the neighbouring vineyards, which were cultivated with much labour 
and indufhy. 

I fhall add a few words of general obfervation on the difeafes of 
Syria, with which I fhall clofe the prefent digreffion, and then pro- 
ceed to the more immediate objects of this narrative. 

The Syrians are fubject to few endemic difeafes, of which the 
pforophthalmy, an inveterate complaint of the eyes, is the principal 
and moil common. It prevails fo generally, that in the town of 
Jaffa nearly two thirds of the inhabitants had, from its effects, loft 
the light either of one, or of both the eyes ; info-much that the num- 
bers of blind people led about were truly aftonifhing. It appears to 
me that the remote caufes of this obftinate difeafe r the effects of 
which are fo calamitous, may be traced to a bad diet; an expofure 
to a hot air from the white and burning fands, the fine particles of 
which float almoft perpetually in the atmofphere ; and, laftly, the 
confined huts or dwellings in which the inhabitants refide. In fup- 
port of the probability of the fecond of thefe caufes, it has been re- 
marked, that during the feafon when the figs and grapes ripen, that 
is, in the months of May, June, and July, when the moft intenfe 
heat prevails, this difeafe is moft common, and is accompanied by 
an unufual malignance. With refpect to the latter caufe which has 



2*4 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

been aflumed, it fhould be remarked, that the habitations of the 
poorer claffes of Syrians, to whom the pforophthalmy more particularly 
attaches itfelf, are formed of a few ftones badly cemented together 
by the means of mud or dung, and which, having but a fmall eleva- 
tion from the foil, rather refemble cells, or caverns, for the abode of 
anchorites, than dwellings in which the conveniences of focial life 
are confulted. Being utterly deftitute of chimnies, or other openings 
to carry off the fmoke, the vapours of the dried camel's dung, which 
is burned for fuel, difperfe themfelves in the foul atmofphere by 
which the wretched inmates are enveloped, and, among other bane- 
ful effects, cannot fail to irritate the organ of vifion. It is moft pro- 
bably owing to the fame caufe of the impure air which they infpire 
in thefe miferable hovels, that the countenances of the Syrian pea- 
fants are haggard, fqualid, and without that animated glow which 
denotes an equable circulation of the blood, and a free paflage through 
the excretory channels of the fkin. 

The other difeafes moft prevalent in Syria are dyfentery, cuta- 
neous eruptions, fmali-pox, putrid, intermittent, and remittent fevers* 
and, laftly, the plague, which it would appear, however, is generally 
brought from other countries. The fmall-pox is frequently very 
fatal among the inhabitants, who, to guard againft its ravages, have 
fometimes recourfe to inoculation. In thefe cafes it is their practice 
to puncture the arm with a fliarp inftrument, fimilar to a needle, 
and to rub on the punctured part the variolous matter taken from a 
chofen puftule. This mode of inoculation is confined to the Chrif- 
tian Arabs, who are pretty fuccefsful in the refult, although they 
have no recourfe to internal remedies. The malignant fevers gene- 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 225 

rally prevail in the winter feafon, and during the months of Novem- 
ber and December 1800, fwept off a great part of the population of 
Acre. 

The treatment of difeafes employed by the Syrians is #s capricious 
and immethodical as confined within narrow limits. They place a 
great confidence in the ufe of the lancet ; but to this they have re- 
courfe in the fpring feafon only of the year. 

As an argument of the falutary temperature of the air of Syria, 
the very rare occurrence of pulmonary difeafes Ihould be adduced, as 
well as the numerous inftances of longevity among the inhabitants, 
who frequently attain the age of an hundred, and, in fome inftances, 
of an hundred and ten years, and upwards. Were they in a more 
civilized ftate, and united in a focial compact under a good govern- 
ment, they would become very numerous and powerful, the Syrian 
women, who marry very young, being remarkably prolific. 



G G 



226 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 



CHAPTER XI. 

$> 

THE AH MY OF THE GF. AND VIZIER PRINCIPAL OFFICERS DIFFERENT 

CASTS OF PEOPLE ARTIFICERS AND ATTENDANTS PRECARIOUS STATE 

OF GREATNESS IN THE TURKISH GOVERNMENT STANDARDS DERVISES 

GROSS SUPERSTITION OF THE TURKS TRADITION RELATIVE TO THE 

DOWNFALL OF THE TURKISH EMPIRE ORIGIN AND PRESENT STATE OF 

THE JANISSARIES THE ARNAUTS LIGHT CAVALRY VOLUNTEERS 

RELIGIOUS SECTARIES WHO FOLLOW THE ARMY PLUNDERERS MAME- 
LUKES ARABIAN CAMEL-DRIVERS THIEVISH DISPOSITION OF THE 

ARABS TARTARS GUARDS OF HONOUR GENERAL CHARACTER OF 

THE TURKS PERSONAL COURAGE SUPERSTITION TEMPERANCE 

ADDICTION TO COFFEE AND TOBACCO GAMES PAY AND ALLOWANCE 

OF THE SOLDIERY MISERABLE STATE OF THE MEDICAL ART AMONG 

THE TURKS HORSEMANSHIP. 

"PREFIXED to the prefent chapter is a plan or furvey of the 
Turkifh encampment, as well as of the town and works of 
Jaffa, made by Mr. George Pink, one of the draughtfmen attached 
to the Britifli million. It is accompanied by a fcale, and by the 
necefTary explanations, among which will be found the diftribution 
of the different claffes of military, a heterogeneous and disorganized 
mafs formed from a variety of nations, of which the army of the 
Grand Vizier was compofed. Having been taken towards the clofe 
of July 1 800, a few weeks after our arrival at Jaffa, the numbers of 
effective troops enumerated in the above plan are on a very low efti- 
mate, when compared with the fubfequent ftate of the Turkifh 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 227 

forces, augmented by the new levies which were conflantly pouring 
in. In giving a fummary {ketch of whatever has fallen under my 
obfervation, relative to the army of the Vizier, and to the Turkifh 
troops in general, I beg leave to direct the attention of my reader to 
the plan, which will enable him to follow my ftatements with 
greater precifion. 

The principal Turkifh officers who ferved in the Ottoman camp, 
under the command of his Highnefs the Grand Vizier, were as 
follows : 

The Serafkier, Mahomed Pacha, a Pacha of three tails. 

The Charcagis, Taher Pacha, a Pacha of two tails. 

The Yenecheri Agaffi, or JanifTary Aga, having the rank of a 

Pacha of two tails, and the chief command of the JanhTaries. 
The Jebigis Bafhi, or commifTary of {tores, a Pacha of one tail. 
The Topgis Bami, or commandant of artillery. 
The Arabahgis Bafhi, or fuperintendant of gun-carriages. 
The Coombarahgis Bafhi, or commandant of bombardiers. 
The Lakemgis Bafhi, or commandant of miners. 
The Seymen Bafhi, or fecond in command of JanifTaries. 
The Cul Caiyahfi, whofe appointment is fimilar to that of our 

officers fuperintending prefs gangs. 
The Cadi Afker, or military judge (occafionally attached to the 

Ottoman army). 
The Etchi Bafhi, or Cook Bafhi. 
The Samfoongis Bafhi, or principal dog-keeper. 
The Zahergis Bafhi, or fecondary dog-keeper. 

G G 2 



228 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

Befides thcfe there were many others whom it would be fuper- 
fluous to mention, and among them feveral whofe prefence in the 
camp was not of the leaft utility. Of this defcription are the two 
perfonages who ftand the laft on the lift, and whofe titles would not 
have been enumerated, had it not been for the fingularity of their 
appointments. Originally, a certain number of dogs were, in a 
Turkifli army, attached to the troops ; but this practice having been 
long difcontinued, nothing now remains except the rank and emo- 
luments of the office. That of the Tournahgis Baflii, or bird- 
keeper, who had the charge of the birds formerly carried with the 
army, is now become obfolete. 

The appointments held by the generality of thefe officers fuffi- 
ciently explain the relative importance of their ftations. There 
are, however, one or two of them who are entitled to a particular 
notice. 

The Cadi Afker is, in his judicial capacity, invefted with an office 
of great dignity and refponfibility in the Turkifh army. He is the 
fupreme judge and arbitrator in all difputes and legal queftions which 
may arife, whether of a civil or military nature. It is, notwith- 
standing, to be prefumed, that under fo defpotic an adminiftration 
as that of the Turks, more efpecially where the military is concerned, 
his awards mull: be fubjecl: to a great degree of controul. A deli- 
neation of the coftume of a Cadi Afker, or military judge, will be 
found in Plate X. 

The Etchi Bafhi, or cook of the corps of JannTaries, whatever his 
title may appear to import, has a diftinguifhcd confideration in the 




7'ublixlud Af.imi US«3 hv JiriuUi/is'i SfJinds 1 7>ar L 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. ' 229 

Turkifh army ; and, to heighten his importance, carries about him 
certain marks and characTxriftic diftindtions, which render his ap- 
pearance highly ludicrous. He is clothed in a large habit of dark 
coloured leather, covered over with devices of plated metal, which 
render it extremely weighty, infomuch that on days of ceremony, 
when he is decorated with all the infignia of his office, what with 
the prelTure of this habit, or tunic, and that of the other parts of his 
drefs, which, being alfo covered with plates of metal, are equally 
^cumbrous and oppreffive, he requires the aid of two perfons to affift 
him in walking. It is from this officer, who is both feared and 
refpecled by his corps, that the Janiffaries receive the punifhment 
of the coup de baton. Plate XI. will convey a better idea of the 
drefs of this grotefque perfonage than can be communicated by any 
written defcription. 

In a Turkifli army, complexions of every hue, black, copper- 
colour, olive, tawny, yellow, and white, are to be found, as well as 
the different cafts of features, and varieties of fhape and proportion, 
which refult from fo motley a compound of fo many different na- 
tions indifcriminately brought together. The complexions depend 
of courfe on the varieties of the climates whence the different corps 
have been recruited. The Africans are black, with the exception 
of thofe who come from the more northern parts of Africa, and who, 
notwithstanding they have on the head the curled w r oolly hair of 
negroes, are of a tawny complexion. It has by fome been afTerted, 
that they are fprung from colonies imported into the countries they 
inhabit, from different parts of Europe and Afia. The Egyptians-, 



230 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

as well as the inhabitants of Afia, Syria, Diarbeker, &c. are alfo dark 
or tawny. Among the whites may be comprehended, not only the 
Europeans, but the inhabitants of Natolia, Armenia, Georgia, and 
Tartary. The Georgians are juftly celebrated for the fineft com- 
plexion and moft regular features any where to be found. Many of 
the Bedouin Arabs differ fo much from their countrymen in their 
complexion, as to be nearly black. 

So confiderable, in a Turkirn army, are the numbers of tradef- 
people, attendants, domeftics, and followers of every denomination, 
that when it is computed to amount to twenty thoufand men, nearly 
the half of that number muff be fubftracted, to form an eftimate of 
its real and efficient force, when brought into the field. Each of the 
chiefs and pachas is conftantly furrounded by a very numerous fuite 
of attendants, who keep their eyes fteadily fixed on him to catch his 
nod, and haften to the execution of his imperious mandates. By 
the numbers of his followers, who thus fwarm about him, his dig- 
nity and refpectability are eftimated. Amidft all this grandeur, his 
fituation, than which nothing can be more precarious, ought not to 
excite the envy or jealoufy of thofe who act in the fubordinate ranks. 
Should he have fignalized himfelf on a great and trying occafion, it 
too frequently happens that his diftinguifhed merit points him out 
to his fuperiors as the object of an odious perfecution. His views 
and expectations are thus baffled, and the earlieft occafion fought to 
accomplish his ruin, and to gratify a hateful fpirit of revenge. To 
effect this, he is perhaps ordered to execute an infurmountable diffi- 
culty, in the accomplishment of which having neceffarily failed, he 




TlMUhidlhrA I iSo% hy £ P/.ilfys JlSlPaiJr CkurATard. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 231 

is deprived of his employment, degraded from his rank, robbed of his 
wealth, and in the midfl of his fufferings may efleem himfelf happy 
that his life has been fpared by his favage perfecutors. The maxim 
which the Turks have embraced, that fuccefs gives a divine fancYion 
to all actions, fupplies them with an excufe for the commiffion of 
the blackeft crimes. 

In an Ottoman army, the multitude of ufelefs people to whom I 
have juft alluded, cannot fail to be attended by great inconveniences, 
as well as by the occafional diftrefs refulting from an infufBciency of 
means. While fo marked an attention is bellowed on an oftenta- 
tious parade, which might be permitted elfewhere to the luxurious 
inhabitant of the eaft, every eflential arrangement in the eflablim- 
ment of depots, magazines, &c. is neglected, infomuch, that the 
horrors of an approaching famine have frequently manifefted them- 
felves in the Turkifh ranks, as we can teftify from ocular ob 
fervation. 

Each of the Pachas or chiefs has his refpective ftandard, which is 
very large ; and the dervices, or religious profeffors, by whom the 
Turkifh army is accompanied, have alfo their facred banners, the 
colour of which is ufually green. In addition to this, each of the 
fmall companies, confuting of from twenty-five to thirty privates, 
belonging to the corps of infantry, carries a fmall flag or banderole. 
Among the Arnauts thefe little flags are ftill more numerous. The 
neceflary inference to be drawn from the employment of fuch a 
multiplicity of ftandards, banners, and flags, is, that thofe who have 
the charge of them rauft not* only diminifh in a confiderable degree, 



232 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

in the field of battle, the effe&ive force which would otherwife have 
been brought into action, but muft even fhackle and impede the 
military operations. How miftaken therefore is the calculation that, 
independently of the ideas of grandeur and magnificence which the 
Turks attach to thefe trivial objecls, they have the efFecl; of infpiring 
the enemy with terror and difmay ? 

A Turkifh camp is lighted up at night by a kind of large lan- 
terns, formed of iron hoops, and fattened upon long poles. Several 
of thefe lights, in which rags impregnated with greafe, oil, or a 
refinous fubftance, are burned, are placed in the front of the tent of 
each of the Pachas. In the difpofition of the centinels, as well as 
in the diftribution of the tents, and, in general, in every effential 
arrangement in which fecurity ought to be ftudied, the Turks are fo 
extremely negligent and inattentive, as to be conftantly expofed to 
a furprife, more particularly in the night-time. In fuch a cafe the 
panic and alarm produced cannot fail to throw every part of the 
camp into the utmoft confufion, fince it is impoffible to rally, unite, 
and form a whole, where neither order nor method has been ftudied 
in the diftribution of the parts. There is nothing, indeed, to ob- 
ftru<5l the progrefs of an enemy who mould attempt to penetrate by 
night, with cautious and wary fteps, into the camp, and who, by 
cutting the cords of the tents, would be certain to produce a fatal 
embarralTment among the troops within. Whether the llaughter 
which would enfue lhould be more or lefs terrible, the ultimate 
efFedt of the abandonment of the camp would be the fame ; and the 
equipage and artillery would become a fure prey to the affailants. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 235 

The dreadful maiTacre which occurred on the 1 7th of September, 
1 7G9, arofe from the unprepared ftate of fourteen thoufand Turks 
encamped, and the very feeble refiftance they were in confequence 
enabled to make. Inftead of defending themfelves, the greater part 
of them crept under the tents, where they were put to death by the 
bayonet, without imploring the mercy of their vanquishers. During 
the late conteft in Egypt an equally calamitous fcene was witneffed 
at Aboukir, where many thoufands of the Turks who had been 
routed in their encampment, in attempting a precipitate efcape, 
drowned themfelves in the fea. 

The Turks, who are involved in fuperftition, carry about them, 
in the camp and in the field, as well as in every other fituation, cer- 
tain talifmans, confifting chiefly of verfes of the Koran, to which 
they attach very extraordinary virtues, regarding them as a fafe- 
guard and a protection againft every danger by which they may be 
aifailed. 

They befcovv an implicit faith on an ancient prophecy, a part of 
which, according to their traditions, was found engraven on the 
tomb of one of their fantons, and which is pretty nearly to this erTect: 
" That the Turkilh empire will be annihilated by the Ruffians ; that 
" the firft battle which will be fought between the two contending 
" powers will be loft by the Ottomans, on the banks of the Niefter ; 
" that another battle will afterwards be decided againft them in the 
" neighbourhood of Conftantinople ; and that their emperors will be 
" compelled to refide at Damafcus." Should they therefore be over- 
come, in a future conteft with this power, it will not perhaps be 
owing fo much to the imperfect ftate of their ta&ics, to their bad 



II H 



234 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

conduct in the field, or to the valour of their enemy, as to the chi- 
merical and iuperftitious ideas they are weak enough to entertain. 

The origin of fuch an extraordinary military body as that of the 
Janififaries has juftly excited curiofity, yet it will be found nearly 
fimilar to that of other eftablifhments. Amurat h for the better 
prefervation of his empire, found it neceflary to eftablifli a formi- 
dable and well difciplined militia, a part of which was deftined for 
the defence of his own perfon. He accordingly collected every fifth 
youth who had attained the age of fifteen years, belonging to the 
Chriftian inhabitants of Bulgaria, Macedonia, and the Greek pro- 
vinces, which were thus rendered tributary in a confiderable portion 
of their rifing population. Thefe children were carefully inftructed 
in the Mahomedan religion, and inured for a certain number of years 
to laborious exercifes, by the hufbandmen to whofe care they were 
entrufted. They were afterwards trained to the ufe of arms ; and, 
to the end that they might be accuftomed to the fpilling of blood, 
and their character ftamped with a favage ferocity, they were made 
to exercife their weapons on the bodies of prifoners taken in battle, 
or on thofe of condemned criminals. They were ftyled hadjem- 
oglar, or the children of ftrangers. This perfonal tribute to which 
the Chriftians were fubje&ed having been at length commuted into 
a fine, the Janiflaries were recruited by volunteers, the greater part 
of whom have been latterly taken from the loweft claries of the 
people, infomuch that they are now in a very degraded ftate, when 
compared with what they were at their original eftablimment. From 
the words yeni-ajker, which, in the Turkifli language, imply new 
levies, the word JanifTary is derived. 



SYRIA, AND EGYF1\ 235 

However the JaniiTaries, in confequence of deviations from their 
original inftitution, may have relaxed from the difcipline which in 
ancient times rendered them fo formidable, they may (till be con- 
fidered as the moft felect and regular of the Turkim troops. They 
are at the fame time better and more uniformly dreffed and equipped. 
They carry a fhort rifle-barrel mufket, flung acrofs the moulder, 
without a bayonet. The fire of thefe mufkets, the greater part of 
which are manufactured at Damafcus, cannot be very brifk, as they 
require a confiderable time to load. The other arms of the JanilTaries 
confift of a large knife, or dagger, and a pair of piftols fattened 
within the fam which furrounds the waift. In fome inftances they 
carry fabres. On particular occafions they wear a large and fingular 
cap of white felt, with a long flap behind, hanging careleisly down 
the backhand in the front a brafs tube, in which the fpuon is in- 
tended to be carried for the pilaw, fuch as is worn by the Etchi 
Bafhi, Plate XL Their trowfers being much narrower than thofe 
worn by the Turks in general, are lefs embarraffing in walking. 
During the fummer their legs are naked, as are alfo their arms as 
high as the moulders. On the feet they wear red flippers, and are 
occafionaily enveloped by a loofe cloak. When in their tents they 
fit and lie on a fmall Turkey carpet, or, when this cannot be pro- 
cured, on a flieep-fkin. On a march they carry their water either 
in a tin canteen, or in a leathern bottle. 

The total amount of thefe corps has been varioufly eftimated. By 
fome it has been carried to more than an hundred thoufand effective 
men; while others have fuppofed it not to exceed forty thoufand. 
Each oddah, or regiment, has a flag or fymbol by which it is diftin-* 

H H 2 



236 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

guifhed from the others. Thcfe fymbols are in fome inftances cha- 
racteriftic, as in the cafe of the thirty-fii-ft oddah, or regiment, where 
the anchor on the flag denotes that this regiment is devoted to the 
fervice of the marine. In other cafes the fymbols are fanciful, re- 
prefenting birds, fifties, animals, fabres, &c. The arms alfo of the 
provinces from whence the regiments were originally recruited, and 
the names of which they bear, are reprefented occafionally on thefe 
colours. The ftrength of each oddah depends in a great meafure on 
its celebrity. 

The prefervation of their colours in battle is not with the Janif- 
faries fo much an affair of momentary concern, as that of the large 
copper kettles, two in number, which are conftantly placed in the 
front of the tents of each regiment, and which are accompanied by 
a fkimmer, a ladle, and a kind of halbert. They have two fets of 
thefe cooking utenfils, to guard againft any accident which may 
occur ; and they are held fo facred as to be a certain protection to 
thofe who feek refuge beneath them. When both fets are loft, the 
regiment is difbanded. On a march thefe kettles are carried in front 
of each refpedlive regiment. 

In Conftantinople the JanifTaries form the night guards, and in 
parading the ftreets are equipped with heavy fticks, or bludgeons. 
When, in time of war, they are ftationed either in towns or in camps, 
many of them afTociate themfelves with the tradefpeople and futtlers, 
to whom, if Chriftians more efpecially, they are a 'protection, and 
whofe cuftom they are certain to augment by their influence, while 
they lhare their profits. 

In addition to the ration which is regularly allowed them, they 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 237 

receive a moderate pay, which does not exceed a crown per month. 
The mode of the monthly diftribution I have already defcribed. 

The Yenicheri-Agaffi, or generaliffimo of thefe troops, is a perfon 
of high rank and confi deration, inverted with all the dignities of a 
Pacha of two or three tails, and having an occafional feat in the 
divan. Among the other officers are the Choarbagis, or colonel, 
and the Bayraclar, or ftandard-bearer. The title of Serafkier cor- 
refponds with that of our commander in chief of the army, and is 
beftowed on a Pacha commanding an army, with other Pachas who 
acl under him. With the exception of the Aga and Colonel, the 
Turkifli military officers in general are dellitute of the refpeclability 
which is attached to European officers enjoying the fame rank. 
Their promotion being obtained by purchafe and favour, rather than 
by merit, the influence of an individual high in power is alone 
neceffary to raife the moft obfeure individual in the fcrvice to the 
higheft command. 

I mall add a few obfervations on fuch of the Turkifh military 
corps as deferve a particular notice, and then proceed to the narra- 
tive of the operations of the Vizier's army. 

The troops which are raifed in the Morea, in Macedonia, Bofnia, 
&c. are fry led Arnauts, and have already been very frequently cited 
by me on account of their very turbulent and indocile qualities. The 
corps of infantry into which they are formed are commanded by 
officers from their refpeclive provinces, which, whenever the Turks 
are engaged in a war, are drained of a great proportion of their male 
population, on account of the w r arlike difpofition of the inhabitants, 
who are trained exchvuvely to the ufe of arms, to engage themfelves 



238 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

as mercenaries wherever their fervices may be demanded. Being 
inured from their infancy to laborious exercifes, they are hardy and 
vigorous; and the purfuits in which they are engaged give them an air 
of favage fiercenefs well fuited to their character. Among their other 
immoral qualities, they are expert thieves. When they are engaged, 
a fum of money is given to a Pacha, or fome other chief, to enter- 
tain a certain number of them for a given time. He bellows orf 
each of them a fmall monthly pay, in addition to which they are 
fupplied, when in the field, by the Turkifh government, with bif- 
cuit and rice. A Bin-bafhi, having under him feveral officers of 
inferior ranks, commands a corps of thefe troops, a thoufand ftrong. 
Notwithstanding they are in general formed into corps of infantry, 
feveral thoufands of them were mounted during the lair, campaign 
in Egypt. Their drefs has fome refemblance to the tunic. That 
of the fuperior officers is of rich velvet, nicely embroidered with 
gold. They wear a breafl-plate of filver, or white metal ; and in 
fome cafes cover the legs with a kind of armour, putting on fandals, 
to imitate in their drefs, as nearly as they can, the Spartans, from 
whom they fuppofe themfelves defcended, and whofe fierce and 
martial air they appear to have retained. The head is fhaved, ex- 
cept on the middle, or crown, whence a tuft of hair defcends, and 
flows loofely down the back. Over the head is a red fkull-cap 4 
which defcends low down on the forehead. In general their appear- 
ance indicates that they are very negligent and flovenly in their per- 
fons. On a long march, and after a confiderable abfence from their 
homes, they are often cxpofed to the grcateft mifery and diftrefs, of 
which indeed we were ourfelves, on feveral occafions, witneffes. 



B-iblisftedi/arrh /. Afty byJUlfulfy* ;/ SShub'ChivA Yard 



G % . 



JliUshedMarchl./Soj.fyRT/uUips-jl SfPoiJs C l rt vi. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 239 

Amidft the vices in which they indulge, that of gambling is carried 
to fo great an excels, that when they have loft at cards the little 
money they have in their poffeffion, they frequently ftake their fire- 
arms, and every other defcription of property. They are great ma- 
rauders, plundering whatever they can lay their hands on ; and fo 
unruly and intemperate in their paffions, which they cannot govern, 
that they frequently commit affaffinations among one another. They 
fpeak a language peculiar to themfelves, faid to have been handed 
down to them by the ancient Illyrians. 

Their arms confift of a pair of piftols worn in a fafh, with a long 
handjar knife, or dagger, and a mufket with a long barrel. Their 
piftols and mufkets are ufually mounted in filver, and much orna- 
mented. They are without knapfacks, for which, in truth, they 
have not the fmalleft occafion. The mode in which they are trained 
from their youth renders them excellent markfmen. Plates XIL 
and XIII. contain different views of the coftume and military accou- 
trements of an Arnaut foldier. 

In the Turkifh cavalry, as well as in the fervice of the infantry, 
the foldier provides himfelf with the arms the moft agreeable to his 
fancy. Frequently, however, the horfemen carry pikes and javelins 
of different lengths, of which the fhorter ones are girted on and 
fecured to the faddle. Some of thefe weapons are fix feet or more 
in length, with an iron point, or ferrule, nearly a foot long, to the 
bottom of which is attached a taffel made of feathers, or hair. 
Having, in training up to difcipline, made the djerid exercife a prin- 
cipal purfuit and chief amufement, they lance the javelin with great 
force and dexterity. They like wife carry battle-axes, and maces, or 



s 4 o TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

clubs, with fabres, and, in fome cafes, carabines, or rifle-barrel muf- 
itets. It feldom happens that bayonets are employed by the Turkifli 
foldiery ; but among the cavalry, two, or even a greater number of 
ptftols, ornamented with a filver mounting, are placed within the 
fafh, or girdle. 

There are two indifpenfable articles with which a Turkifh horfe- 
man never fails to provide himfelf, namely, a leathern bottle, or 
perhaps feveral, filled with water, and reaching from the faddle to 
beneath the belly of the horfe ; and his pipe, which is fattened in 
front to the pommel of the faddle. 

The number of the cavalry is much greater than that of the in- 
fantry. The horfes on which they are mounted are of a greater or 
lefs value and efhimation, according to the countries from whence 
they have been procured. In the management of them their riders 
are very adroit ; and mount with much grace and agility. As is 
the cafe with all the Turkifli and Arab horfemen, their ftirrups are 
very fhort. 

When on a march, the cavalry are not more regular and orderly 
than the other Turkifli troops. It is faid that in battle they do not 
engage m majfe fo much as the Janiflaries, but are more difperfed. 
It is however certain, that on thefe occafions each troop or fquadron, 
whatever may be its ftrength, keeps together without mixing with 
the other troops. In naming forward, at a given fignal, to encounter 
the enemy, each of the horfemen exclaims with vehemence, allah ! 
allah I invoking the aid of the deity to the enterprize. 

Among the troops of light cavalry the natives of Georgia and 
Circaflia, known under the common appellation of Leghis, are the 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 241 

rnoft confpicuous. They are well proportioned, of a robuft make, and 
have the fine features and complexions for which the above pro- 
vinces are diftinguhlied. The ftate of warfare which is conftantlv 
kept up between them and the Ruffian troops ftationed on their 
frontiers, together with the hoftilities they carry on among them- 
felves in a predatory way, and which are favoured by the mountain- 
ous territory they inhabit, have rendered them well calculated for a 
military life. Except that the head is not fhaved, and that they 
wear a fheep-ilcin cap inftead of a turban, their appearance is a 
unlike that of the Tartars. 

Under the defcription of volunteers may be comprehended the 
religious feclaries whofe excefs of enthufiafm urges them to difpofe 
of the little property they pofTefs, and to repair, from every part of 
the Turkilh empire, to the ilandard of their prophet Mahomed. 
But of all the feels the m'oft numerous is the feci; of plunderers, who 
alfo refort to his ftandard, in the hope of acquiring a greater booty 
than they could reafonably expect, elfe where. 

By the word Mameluke is implied a native of a diilant region. 
Accordingly the Mamelukes, who made fo confpicuous a figure in hif- 
tory fome centuries ago, who recently diftinguimed themfelves in the 
French invafion of Egypt, and whom I have had repeated occafions 
to notice in fpeaking of the army of the Grand Vizier, are either Geor- 
gian or Circaffian fla.ves brought into Egypt ; with the exception, 
however, of a few among them, whofe dark and fwarthy countenance 
announces, as well as the -caff, of their features, that they are of Nu- 
bian origin. It is necenary that every individual Mameluke Ihould 
have ibeen a flave, to arrive at the higheft dignities, fucli as Bey , &c. 

1 1 



c 4 2 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

The climate of Egypt, or fome other caufe, however, is extremely 
unfavourable to the defcendants of the Mamelukes. They are gene- 
rally fhort lived. It is faid that thefe can never be permitted to 
enjoy the elevated fituations among the Mamelukes. The children 
of Europeans, alfo, who are fettled in the country, are unhealthy, 
and are reared with the greateft difficulty. 

There was a time when the more fuccefsful and more enterprifing 
of the Mamelukes rofe to the higheft dignities in Egypt, from the 
office of Bey to that of Sheick-el-belled, or fupreme governor ; but 
the afcendency they had acquired in that country has been latterly 
much diminifhed, The numbers of thofe by whom the army of 
the Grand Vizier was augmented were comparatively few, but they 
were entitled to more confidence than the generality of the troops. 
A very accurate idea of their coftume is conveyed by Plate XIV. 

The Arabian camel-drivers, who are not fumifhed, like the Turkifh 
foldiers, with tents for their lodging and accommodation, while on 
the march, are reduced to the neceffity of forming, at the expiration 
of each day's march, a ring or circle, by the means of the faddles 
and other furniture of their camels, near to whom they are conftantly 
ftationed for their fafety and protection. Within this circle they 
make afire with the dung of the animals, dried roots, withered 
fhrubs, &c. and with all poffible hilarity hover over this fire in the 
evenings, to partake of fuch amufements as their leifure may fuggeft. 
On thefe occafions they fing, dance, and relate flories, fome of 
which are of an hour's duration. While a part of them are engaged 
in dancing, the others beat time to them by clapping their hands. 

When, on the marches we had occafion to make in Syria and 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 243 

Egypt, their camels were laden with our baggage, we never enter- 
tained the fmalleft apprehenfion refpecting the probity of thefe 
Arabs. No fooner, however, were the animals eafed of their bur- 
thens, than their drivers confidered that they had executed their 
truft, and that whatever they could lay their hands on was fair 
game. This propenfity to theft, which is common to the Arabs of 
every defcription, demanded on our fide the utmofr. vigilance, as 
well during our marches as in the encampment, where the noctur- 
nal robberies which fo frequently occurred, were traced to the fame 
fource of Arabian rapacity. 

In the courfe of my narrative repeated mention has been made of 
the Tartars, who are entrufted with public difpatches. A certain 
number of thefe Tartars, under a Khan, or chief of their own nation, 
were conflantly flationed with the army of the Grand Vizier, to 
receive his Highnefs's commands, and to proceed on the different 
millions which the public bufinefs might require. They are dif- 
patched in this way, not only from the armies, but from the capital, 
to every part of the Ottoman dominions, and are as quiet and well 
behaved, as they are remarkable for their fidelity. Inftead of a tur- 
ban, they wear a yellow calpack, round the inferior part of which 
is a broad band of black cloth. They are a ftrong and hardy race, 
capable of enduring the greateft fatigues, and perform their journies 
with remarkable celerity, feldom or never fleeping on the route. 
They are provided with a firman, or order, which enables them, in 
the towns through which they pafs, to make requisitions for horfes, 
and whatever befides may be neceffary for their further progrefs ; 

1 1 2 



244 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

and with thefe demands the governors, magiftrates, and others, are 
bound fhrictly to comply. 

The Vizier was r as well as feveral of his principal officers, attended 
by a defcription of guards of honour, ftyled boftangis, a word which 
in its literal fenfe, implies gardeners. At Conftantinople they are 
very numerous, and form the body guard of the Sultan, whofe barge 
is entrufted to their management whenever there is a public procef- 
fion by water. Their chief, the Boftangi Bafhi, holds an appoint- 
ment of great trull, being in vetted not only with the civil jurifdic- 
tion of the Seraglio, but alfo with that of the villages on each fide 
of the Bofphorus. 

I mall clofe thefe details by a few general remarks on the Turks, 
more particularly as far as regards their military character. 

That the Turks poffefs a confiderable fhare of perfonal courage is 
beyond a doubt : it is therefore to be lamented, that this quality 
mould be rendered ufelefs, or even pernicious, by the fuperftition 
into which they are plunged, as well as by all the radical vices of 
their government. They are hardy, temperate, patient under afflic- 
tions, and upright in their dealings. Having been accuftomed from 
an early age to an abftemious mode of living, and inured to hard- 
Ihips, thofe of the inferior claffes are well calculated for a military 
life. Their cuftomary diet confifts of a fmall portion of bread or 
bifcuit, with a fcanty allowance of cheefe, onions, olives, and oil, 
whenever either or any of thefe articles can be procured. It occurs 
but feldom that they can gratify themfelves by an indulgence in 
animal food ; and in fuch cafes they are very fond of a pilaw, con- 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 245 

filling of a ftrong gravy made from mutton, fowls, &c. in which a 
proportion of boiled rice is ftewed. This luxury, however, but fel- 
dom falls to the lot of the military by whom the Turkifh ranks are 
filled, and who have recourfe to other and lefs coftly gratifications, 
the principal of which are coffee and tobacco. The former they 
drink in as ftrong an infufion as poffible ; and to the ufe of the latter 
they are fo much addicted, that the pipe is the infeparable companion 
of many of the women even among the lower ranks of the Turks. 
Wine being prohibited by the Koran, the ufual beverage of every 
clafs of Muffulmen is water ; but whenever they can prevail on 
themfelves to overcome their religious fcruples fo far as to indulge 
in the ufe of wine or fpirits, they fwallow them fo copioufly, and 
with fuch eagernefs, that, in the intoxication which, follows, they 
become noify and riotous in the extreme. 

The game of chefs, which is not prohibited like gambling with 
cards or dice, is one of their amufements in the camp, as well as in 
the towns. They are like wife very fond of fmging, which is gene- 
rally performed in a harm and difcordant tone, without any modu- 
lation of the voice. 

In addition to his fcanty allowance of bread,, or bifcuit and rice 
(and of barley for his horfe, if belonging to the cavalry), the Turkifh 
foldier is allowed from five to ten afpers, that is, from a penny to 
two-pence Engliui, per day. With this wretched ftipend he is 
obliged to fupply himfelf with tobacco, coffee, onions, olives, &c. 
When fick, he has little to expect from medical fkill or attendance, 
and can place as fmall a dependance on the adminiftration of the 
necelfary remedies, which are very rarely fupplied to combat his 



246 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

difeafe. I was acquainted with four furgeons belonging to the army 
of the Grand Vizier, three of whom were Italians, whofe practice 
was chiefly confined to the pachas and commanders of the different 
corps. They fell victims to their profeffional duties. The fourth 
was a Turk, whofe fkill in medical fcience correfponded with that 
of the greater part of his countrymen who had embraced the fame 
purfuit. 

As well in camp as in every other fituation, the Turks attend 
regularly to their prayers five times in the courfe of the day, at fun- 
rife, at nine in the morning, at noon, at four in the afternoon, or 
two hours before fun-fet, and at the fetting of the fun. Before each 
prayer they invariably wafh their feet, hands, and face, and having 
fpread their little carpet in the tent, make their proftrations, and go 
through their devout exercifes. After their fecond prayer, at nine 
in the .morning, they breakfafr. ; and delay their dinner until the 
lafl, or fun-fet prayer has been repeated. Thefe are the only meals 
of the lower clafTes of the Turks. 

The Seis, or Arab groom, is generally preferred by the Turks, on 
account of his fkill and addrefs in the management of horfes. A 
portrait of one of thefe grooms will be found in Plate XV. The 
Turks themfelves are, however, little inferior to the Arabs in this 
qualification, and pay a particular attention to the animals entruftcd 
to their care, the bodies of which are conftantly covered either with 
a thick cloth to defend them from the weather and from the bites 
of infects, or with the faddle. Whether in the {table, or without 
door at picket, the horfes of the Turkifh cavalry are kept clofely 
girthed, and fettered or tethered, and equipped at all points for fervice. 




' 'abUsh'd March i.ido3.byRPIiillifxr. Stfavts fhurch larrf . 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 247 

It is by no means uncuftomary to fee a Turk on horfeback ride 
full fpeed up to another who is alfo mounted, and having difcharged 
his piftol in the air, fuddenly flop his horfe. He does this as a very 
high compliment, and to evince not only his own (kill in horfeman- 
fhip, but the confidence he repofes in his horfe, over whom he has a 
perfect command. This mode of paying a compliment is certainly 
calculated to excite a confiderable degree of alarm and apprehenfion 
in a ftranger who witnelfes it for the firlt time, and it may be at- 
tended with fome danger to one who is not very perfect in horfe- 
manfhip. 

Notwithstanding the precepts of their exclufive religion have ren- 
dered this nation haughty and imperious, many of the Turks of a 
diftinguifhed rank difplay, in their focial intercourfe, great urbanity 
and courtefy of manners. 



TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 



CHAPTER XII. 

NARRATIVE RESUMED BILE A KING UP OF THE CAMP AT JAFFA MARCH 

OF TH.E ARMY NEW ENCAMPMENT ACCOUNT OF GENERAL MU.STA- 

PHA„ ALIAS CAMPBELL SINGULAR FACT RELATIVE TO THE PLAGUE 

COMMUNICATED BY GENERAL MUSTAPHA SEVERAL DEATHS BY THE 

PLAGUE ROCK WHERE SAMSON WAS SURPRISED BY THE PHILISTINES 

EKRON ASHDO;D ASXALON (RAMAH OF GJLEAD PREPARATIONS 

FOR MARCH ORDER OF THE MARCH NEW ENCAMPMENT NEAR ESDAL, 

OR ESHTAOL ARAB VILLAGES ASHDOD, OR AZOTUS PROGRESS OF 

THE ARMY COUNTRY ROUND ASCALON DESCRIBED DEARTH OF CORN 

•IN THE CAMP — "MMIOH TOWARDS GAZA ENCAMPMENT NEAR GAZ-A 

>VI-&1T TO THAT PLACE •PORCH OF WHICH SAMSON CARRIED AWAY THE 

GATES PLACE OF HIS DEATH DESCRIPTION OF THE CITY AND rSUB- 

URBS OF GAZA PORT OF GAZA— DELIGHTFUL GARDENS ANTELOPES 

QUAILS J ACKALLS STRONG DETACHMENTS SENT FBOM THE VI- 

ZIER's ARMY FOR THE PURPOSE OF ACTIVE OPERATIONS SUCCESSFUL 

PROGRESS OF THE BRITISH ARMY IN EGYPT SCARCITY OF SPECIE IN 

THE OTTOMAN ARMY MARCH OF THE ARMY DIFFICULTIES OF THE 

MARCH ENCAMPMENT AT KAHNYOUNES FURTHER MARCH OF THE 

OTTOMAN ARMY ENTRANCE INTO AFRICA ENCAMPMENT IN THE DE- 
SERT MARCH OVER THE DESERT ARRIVAL AT EL-ARISH REGULA- 
TIONS OF THE GRAND VIZIER ARRIVAL OF FRESH TROOPS— DETACH- 
MENT SENT OFF TOWARDS SALAHIEH SERIOUS DISAGREEMENT IN THE 

TURKISH CAMP STORM IN THE DESERT DEFICIENCY OF PROVENDER 

KAMPSIN WIND CASUAL SUPPLY INTERCEPTED BY BEDOUIN ARABS 

ARRIVAL IN CAMP OF A FRENCH DESERTER LOSS OF CAMELS EMBAR- 
KATION OF CIVIL ARTIFICERS FOR TINEH MARCH FROM EL-ARISH 

CROSSING THE DESERT ENCAMPMENT AT BARRAHCAT MARCH ACROSS 

THE DESERT TO THEAH ENCAMPMENT THERE MARCH TO BIR-DENE- 

DAR — OVERFLOWINGS OF THE NILE ENCAMPMENT AT KANTARA 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 249 

MARCH INTO SALAHIEH CURIOUS HUTS INHABITED BY ARABS FLIGHT 

OP THE FRENCH FROM SALAHIEH FORTRESS OF SALAHIEH DEBILITY 

OCCASIONED BY THE KAMPSIN WIND INHABITANTS OF EGYPT 

MARCH TO KOllIN VILLAGE OF KORIN PRECIOUS STONES EGYPTIAN 

PARTRIDGES FLOCKS OF DOVES BELBEIS MODE OF GETTING IN 

CORN IN EGYPT OPPRESSIVE HEAT APPEARANCE OF THE ENEMY 

TAHER PACHA DETACHED IN PURSUIT ACTION BETWEEN THE FRENCH 

AND TAHER PACHA, IN WHICH THE FORMER WERE DEFEATED ILL 

STATE OF DISCIPLINE IN THE TURKISH ARMY SACKARS MARCH 

FROM BELBEIS TO MESHTOULE ENCAMPMENT ON THE NILE WATER 

OF THE NILE THE DELTA ARRIVAL OF GENERAL HUTCHINSON IN 

THE VIZIER'S CAMP DISEASES IN THE TURKISH CAMP MARCH TO 

DAGONA GREAT PYRAMIDS OF GIZA DISEASES IN THE BRITISH ARMY 

MARCH TO SHELLACAN NEW ENCAMPMENT ON THE BANKS OF THE 

NILE ARMISTICE AGREED ON WITH THE FiiENCH FORT SHOULKOUSKI 

AND THE PYRAMIDS OF GIZA SURRENDERED CONVENTION AGREED 

UPON HELIOPOLIS CLOUDS OF DUST BRITISH TROOPS TAKE POS- 
SESSION OF CAIRO DESCRIPTION OF CAIRO CITADEL GRAND AQUE- 
DUCT BATHS THE MEKIAS, OR NILOMETER. 

"ft Ik THEN I interrupted my narrative to enter on the preceding 
digreffions, I ftated, that the fteps preparatory to the march 
of the Turkim army had been taken on the 24th of February. At 
eight in the morning of the 25th this event was announced by the 
found of the trumpet, the fignal to ftrike tents ; and at half pall: 
eleven three guns having been fired in the front of the Vizier's tent 
as a fignal of departure, the whole of the Ottoman troops who com- 
pofed his Highnefs's army, with, the exception of thofe who had 
been fent off on the preceding days, were put in motion. Their 
effe&ive force might, on a near calculation, amount to about twelve 

K K 



25 o TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

t'houfand men, confiding of Topgis, or cannoniers, Janiffaries, Ar- 
nauts, Mamelukes, Dehlis, Afiatics, Tartars, Mograbians, Avarees, 
and Bedouin Arabs. His Britannic Majefty's military miffion 
marched with the Grand Vizier, Reis Effendi, and other flate 
officers. This movement, which was to be confidered as the com- 
mencement of the active operations of our Ottoman friends and 
allies, prefented a fcene truly novel and interefting. Previoufly to 
the departure of the troops, the Grand Vizier fent forward a pacha 
with one of his tails, which was planted on the fpot deftined for his 
Highnefs's own particular encampment, and that of the {late officers. 
Within the compafs of this fpot the ground of encampment for the 
Britifh military miffion was invariably to be included. 

We reached the new ground of encampment at a little before 
three in the afternoon. It was fituated near the village of Yebna, 
and about twelve miles diftant from Jaffa, in a fine open plain fur- 
rounded by hills, and covered with herbage which was highly ac- 
ceptable to the half familhed cattle. A rivulet formed by the late 
rains fupplied us with excellent water. 

The Vizier's tent was known exteriorly by two gilt balls placed 
on the extremities of the tent poles ; and near to it was difplayed a 
large white flag, having on it an infcription in Arabic characters. 
The troops pitched their tents promifcuoufly, round thofe of their 
refpe&ive pachas or chiefs, whofe polls in the encampment had been 
marked out by the pacha fent forward with the Vizier's tail. The 
duties of this officer are very fimilar to thofe of our quarter- mafter- 
general. On the march, the bands belonging to the Vizier, Kia Bey, 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 2 5r 

and feveral of the principal pachas, occafionaily ftruck up a martial 
air of mufic. The Topgis, with their artillery, were diffcributed, 
and attached to the moll diftinguifhed of the pachas ; and no cir- 
cumftance was omitted which could give an air of grandeur to this 
military fpeclacle. 

In the evening Captain Skipfey, of his Majefty's floop of war the 
Termagant, which we had defcried in the morning off Jaffa, prior 
to our leaving the old ground of encampment, reached our new fta- 
tion, with difpatches from Admiral Lord Keith, and Sir Ralph Aber- 
crombie, to the Grand Vizier and Reis Effendi. He quitted us on 
the following day with a part of the difpatches with which he was 
charged in reply, to repair to Jaffa, and wait there till the enfuing 
morning for thofe which were not yet in readinefs to be forwarded. 
Previoufly to his departure from the encampment, Captain Skipfey 
was, by order of his Highnefs the Vizier, inverted with a pelice. 

A detachment of Albanians, about fix hundred ftrong, arrived in 
the camp on the 2Gth ; and on the enfuing day General Muftapha, 
alias Campbell, reached us with difpatches from Sir Sydney Smith. 
The general, who is by birth a Scotchman, had refided upwards of 
fifty years in Turkey, where he had embraced the Mahomedan reli- 
gion, and had, by gradual promotions, attained the rank of Cumba- 
ragi Baflii, or general of bombardiers, in the Turkifh army. An 
implicit confidence having been repofed in his talents and fidelity, 
he was, in his early career, entrufted with the fuperintendance and 
conftruction of the military works in the Turkifh empire, feveral of 
which, executed under his direction, are ftill in exiftence. At the 
time of this vifit to the Turktih camp he was between feventy and 

K K 2 



252 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

eighty years of age, and appeared to be well informed, and to have 
received a polifhed education. He had been repeatedly attacked by 
the plague, relative to which difeafe he communicated to me a lin- 
gular fact that had come within his knowledge. A female Circaffian 
ftave of great beauty was attacked by the plague, and funk under the 
complaint ; while her matter, who had ftill continued an intercourfe 
with her during her illnefs, efcaped the infection. From this and 
other fimilar cafes which have been recited to me, it would appear, 
that a certain fufceptibility is neceffary to the reception of the dif- 
eafe, or, in other words, that its contagious action is refifted by a 
certain ftate and condition of the body. Could this particular ftate 
of the temperament be fo well afcertained as to be produced by the 
means of art, the contagion might be effectually refifted, and its 
deleterious effects completely prevented. I may perhaps be thought 
too fanguine when I indulge in a hope, that this difcovery, fo effen- 
tial to the happinefs of mankind, or fome other of paramount effi- 
cacy, will one day be brought to light. 

A letter, dated at El-Arifh, was received on the 28th from Captain 
Lacey, by which it appeared that the plague ftill continued to rage 
in the encampment at that place. We ftill continued healthy in 
our camp. Captain Lacey's fervarit fuffered under an attack of 
malignant fever. 

On the fame day the fix hundred Albanians who had joined the 
Vizier's camp on the 26th, quitted it abruptly, and directed their 
route towards Acre. This defection was fuppofed to have been 
occafioned by the want of money and provifions at our encampment. 

On the lft of March an Arab was fent off to the Red Sea with 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 253 

difpatches from Colonel Holloway. Intelligence was received of 
the death of Fuffan Bey Djadavi, a Mameluke from whofe zeal and 
enterprifing fptrit the Grand Vizier and Ottoman minifters had 
formed the highefl expectations. He was deftined to command the 
advanced body of the Turkifh army, and was fucceeded in this ap- 
pointment by Taher Pacha, an Albanian. Marfan Bey funk under 
an attack of plague. 

During the night there was a violent gale, accompanied by thun- 
der, lightning, and heavy mowers, which obliged the New Adven- 
ture tranfport once more to quit the road of Jaffa, and feek refuge 
at Caiffa. This tempefluous weather continued for fe vera 1 fucceed- 
ing days without interruption. 

On the 3d one of the Vizier's favourite attendants was attacked 
by plague, and died before midnight. The caufe of contagion was 
traced to a pelice which had belonged to an individual recently cut 
off by this difeafe, having been given him to wear. 

On the morning of the 4th an account was brought to us of the 
death of artificer Conway, Captain Lacey's fervant, at El-Arim. A 
letter was likewife received from Jaffa, with the particulars of the 
death of Mrs. Comfort, one of the women who accompanied the 
million, and who expired on the preceding evening, after a fhort ill— 
nefs of thirty-fix hours. As feveral of the fymptoms of her attack 
gave rife to fufpicions of plague, I inftantly tranfmitted to Jaffa the 
neceffary directions for the fecurity of the party of women and chil- 
dren at that place, recommending the ufe of the oily frictions, and 
the other means I have already defcribed. 



254 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

Intelligence was brought to us on the 5th, that the plague had 
made fuch ravages at Cairo as to have obliged the enemy to abandon 
the town, and pitch their tents withoutfide the walls. We learned 
alfo that this terrible fcourge continued to rage with great violence 
at El-Arifh, where a Pacha, together with feveral of the Mamelukes, 
and Ragio, dragoman to Captain Lacey, had been recently attacked. 
In confequence of the fuppuration of the peflilential tumors, fome 
hope of the latter was entertained. 

I made a little excurfion on the morning of the 7th to Yebna, 
fituated on a hill, about two or three miles to the fouth-eaft of the 
encampment. It is conjectured that the rock Etam, where Samfon 
was furprifed by the Philiflines, was at no remote diftance from this 
town. 

On the 8th I rode to the fummit of a lofty hill, fituated to the 
north-eaft of the camp, whence there was a very extenfive and pleaf- 
ing view of Ramla, diftant in that direction about five miles ; and 
to the fouth-eaft a fine view of the plains covered with rich paf- 
turage. On Hoping hills of an eafy afcent, by which the plains were 
bordered, Yebna, Ekron, Afhdod, and Afcalon, all of them places of 
celebrity in the records of the facred writings, were in fight. Having 
now reached the land of the Philiflines, every furrounding fpot was 
the fcene of interefting recollections. Ramla, the ancient Ramah, 
was the abode of Samuel ; and the giant Goliath, flain by David, was 
of Gath, fituated to the eaft of Aflidod. In the valley of Ekron the 
children of Ifrael and the men of Judah took up arms, and purfued 
the Philiflines to the gates of the city. When David was perfecuted 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 255 

by Saul, he fled to Gath, where, as well as with Samuel at Ramah, 
he found fhelter and hofpitality. 

Intelligence was received at this time from El-Arifh, that Ifmael 
Pacha, the commander in chief of the encampment there, having 
been attacked by a fudden fit of vomiting, had been carried off either 
by plague or po'ifon. He was at an advanced period of life, having 
attained his fixtieth year, was brave, and not deftitute of information. 
He laboured under a fufpicion of being difaffecled to the TurkiOi 
government, on which account he had fpent a confiderable time 
under the moil alarming terrors and apprehenfions ; infomuch that 
he had been known to fhift his pofition in his tent feveral times in 
the courfe of a fingle night, from a dread of affaffination. In general 
the plague had confiderably abated of its violence at El-Arifh. 

Colonel Holloway had recently had feveral conferences with the 
Grand Vizier, with a view to recommend to his Highnefs, and in- 
deed to urge him with all due earneftnefs, to advance with his army 
towards Grand Cairo. The effedl of thefe folicitations was, that on 
the gth in the morning the JanifTaries, together with feveral fmall 
detachments, marched forward. On the fame day feveral Tartars 
arrived with treafure and other fupplies from Conflantinople, having 
palled through Acre on their route. From this circumftance it ap- 
peared that our further progrefs would not be long delayed. 

A corps of Dehlis, amounting to about four hundred and fifty, 
arrived at the encampment on the loth from Acre. They formed 
a part of the five thoufand troops promifed by Djezzar Pacha, who 
now manifefted his intention to co-operate ftrenuoufly with the 



256 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

combined Britifh and Turkifli forces againft the common enemy. 
There being a fcarciry of barley in the camp, the rations for our 
horfes were diminimed. The artillery was this day fent forward, 
and three days provifions hTued to the army, with a notice to be in 
readinefs to march on the following morning. To announce the 
march of the Vizier's army, feveral Chaoufes rode through every 
part of the encampment, proclaiming at intervals that at fuch an 
hour the Sadre Azhim, or Grand Vizier, would move his camp to 
fuch a fpot. 

Owing to the unfettled ftate of the weather, and the bad roads, 
which prevented the guns from being carried forward, the artillery 
were, on the 1 ] th, ordered to halt, and the march .of the army poft- 
poned until the enfuing day. In the mean time the Vizier fent 
advanced detachments to repair the roads. 

On the 12th, at fun-rife, the trumpet was founded as a notice to 
march, and the camels, with the tents, baggage, and camp equipage, 
fent forward. The order of the march, on our quitting the ground 
of encampment at eleven o'clock, was as follows : The troops being 
ftationed in front, were followed by his Highnefs's tartavan, or 
Turkifli palankin, with nine led horfes, the Vizier, being furrounded 
by his guards, mufic, and attendants. Next came the tartavan of 
the Kai Bey, and feven led horfes, with his Excellency, guards, mufic, 
and attendants. The tartavan of the Reis Effendi followed, together 
with five led horfes, his Excellency, guards, and attendants. The 
Britifh military miffion fucceeded ; and the rear was brought up by 
the tartavan of the Tcfterdar, and five led horfes, with his Excel- 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. m 

lency, guards, and attendants. The military treafures aje invariably- 
carried with the Tefterdar. 

The heavy rains which fell on our marching off the ground in- 
commoded us not a little, and occafioned many difafters to the bag- 
gage and tents. After having proceeded about twelve miles, in the 
performance of which the rains continued with little interruption, 
we reached, at five in the afternoon, a fine level country, which had 
been rendered fwampy by the long continuance of wet weather ; 
and encamped near a river, having over it a remarkably wide bridge. 
To the fouth of us, on a hill diftant about three miles, was fi mated 
a village which the Arabs call Efdad, probably what was called 
Efhtaol in the fcriptural writings. During the whole of this day's 
march we fkirted the fandy hillocks near the fea more. 

We were informed that the Vizier would halt at our new ground 
of encampment until the 14th, to give time to the camels and other 
animals, worn out with fatigue, to recover themfelves. In the event 
this proved to be abfolutely neceffary, as a part of the tents and bag- 
gage had been either dropped or left on the road, and did not reach 
the ground until that day. In the mean time both officers and men 
fuffered confiderably from the want of their tents. The difficulties 
by which the march was attended will be conceived when I ftate 
that in the performance of it no lefs than two hundred and ten 
camels perifhed. 

On the 13th we had fumcient leifure to look about us, and per- 
ceived that feveral fmall Arab villages were fituated on the neigh- 
bouring eminences. They were inhabited by the clafs ol Fellahs, 



358 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

or Arab hufbandmen, whom I have already defcribed, and who 
were for the greater part Mahomedans. They brought to the camp 
frefh butter of an excellent quality, and a kind of cheefe which re- 
fembled our cream cheefe in England, together with eggs, milk, 
vegetables, and yourt, which they call Labban. The Bedouin Arabs 
tendered us alfo for fale kymack of a good quality. 

An Arab Iheick arrived on the above day from Salahieh, with a 
quantity of fine dates, and other prefents for the Vizier, 

The camels having been laden on the 14th at day-break, and 
every other preparation made for our departure, we quitted the 
ground at eight o'clock. The morning was uncommonly pleafant ; 
and after an hour fpent very agreeably on the march, we paffed 
through Efdad, a wretched village, compofed of a few mud huts. In 
purfuing our route through a delightful country, we came to Amdod, 
called by the Greeks Azotus, and under that name mentioned in the 
A6b of the Apoftles, a town of great antiquity, provided with two 
fmall entrance gates. In palling through this place we faw feverai 
fragments of columns, capitals, cornices, &c. of marble. Towards 
the centre is a handfome mofque, with a beautiful minaret. By 
the Arab inhabitants Amdod is entitled Mezdel. Two miles to the 
fouth, on a hill, is a ruin, having in its centre a lofty column ftil! 
{landing entire. The delightful verdure of the furrounding plains, 
together with a great abundance of fine old olive-trees, rendered the 
fccne charmingly piclurefque. In the villages, tobacco, fruits, and ve- 
getables, are cultivated abundantly by the inhabitants ; and the fertile 
and extenfive plains yield an ample produce of corn. At this time 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 259 

the wheat was juft coming into ear, the harveft taking place fo early 
as towards the latter end of April, or beginning of May. 

In profecuting our march, it was the cuftom to halt twice in the 
courfe of each day, when a fmall but convenient tent was pitched 
for his Highnefs the Vizier. On the firft of thefe halts he took his 
dinner, coffee, and other refreshments. I neglected to obferve, that 
on the firft day's march we partook of fruits and coffee with his 
Highnefs. He occafionally rode on horfeback, and at other times 
in his tartavan ; as was alfo the cafe with the principal officers of 
ftate, who, as well as their chief, avoided fubjeding themfelves to 
any confiderable degree of toil. The cuftomary rate of the march 
was about three miles an hour ; and agreeably to this progrefs the 
diftance of any place which lay before us was calculated by the 
Turks, who reckon not by leagues, but by hours. After a pleafant 
march of fixteen miles, we reached, at five o'clock, the ground def- 
tined for our evening's halt, and encamped near a river which fup- 
plied us with excellent water, and which was provided with a bridge 
of ftone. In this river tradition reports that Dirce, the divinity 
Worfliipped at Afcalon, was, in bathing herfelf, metamorphofed into 
a fifh. Afcalon was diftant from us about three miles, in the direc- 
tion of the fea-fhore. The Britifh military million occupied an 
eminence ; and in the valley beneath the Turks fixed their encamp- 
ment. The river, after taking feveral windings, appeared to empty 
itfelf into a valley to the weftward, towards Afcalon. From the 
pofition we had taken up we had a commanding view of the fur- 
rounding country, which was decorated with the fineft fcenery. As 
well as that through which we had recently patted, it appeared to us 



2 6o TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

like an earthly paradife, when contrafted with the barren and fandy 
hills in the vicinity of Jaffa, to the cheerlefs afpect of which we had 
been accuftomed for nearly nine months. The camp furrounded 
the ruins of an old village, called Mouta-moud, near to which were 
feveral groups of fig-trees, whofe appearance announced them to be 
nearly as old as the ruinous buildings with which they were con- 
nected. The fertile plains which extended themfelves around us in 
every direction, afforded excellent pafture for cattle, and had received 
a new verdure from the late falls of rain, by which the growth of 
the corn had been alfo much forwarded. There was fo great a 
fcarcity of this efTential object of confumption in the camp, that the 
Vizier was under the neceffity of altering his plan, and of marching 
forward to Gaza the next morning. The unfortunate horfes, who 
had fuffered fo much from the fatigues of the preceding marches, 
were left without barley, and were almoft in as deplorable a condi- 
tion as the camels, to whom the wet weather had been extremely 
unfavourable. The latter being accuftomed to the parching heats 
of the deferts, in which there is an almoft perpetual drought, fubfifl 
there under circumflances which would fubject other animals to 
perifh through hunger and thirft. The climate of the deferts, for 
which they appear to have been formed, may therefore be confidered 
as natural to them ; but they cannot endure moiflure, however 
hardy in other rcfpects, and powerful in fupporting the burdens with 
w hich they are charged. That their free and docile nature is much 
abufcd, was manifefted on the route to Efdad, the fecond day's march, 
when the roads were rendered almoft impracticable by the torrents 
of rain which poured down, and when, as I have already ftated, 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 261 

a very confiderable number of thefe laborious and ufeful animals 
perifhed. 

During the greater part of the night the Turks were occupied in 
preparing for their departure; and on the 15th at day-break the 
camels were laden. Before we quitted the ground, I availed myfelf 
of the little leifure which was afforded me to make a fhort excurfion 
into the adjacent country. I rode to the fummit of a lofty hill, 
whence I faw to the north-eaft, at the diftance of a mile and a half 
from the camp, a populous village, the mofque of which was pro- 
vided with a minaret of confiderable elevation. The buildings of 
Afcalon were not perceptible ; but the olive-trees by which it was 
furrounded clearly announced its pofition near to the fea-fide. We 
were told by feveral of the inhabitants who came to the camp, that 
this place contained a great variety of fragments of columns, cor- 
nices, and other architectural ornaments of beautiful marble, which 
Djezzar Pacha had attempted to remove fome years before, but had 
been prevented by the inhabitants, who are exclufively of the race 
of Arabs, and who manifefled, by their obftinacy on this occafion, 
the ftubbornnefs of their nation, rather than the value they attached 
to thefe fine vefliges of antiquity. 

The troops quitted the ground at half pafr. eight o'clock, and after 
a fhort but agreeable march, halted within three miles of Gaza, the 
place where we were next to encamp, and which was nine miles 
diftant from the ground we had abandoned. The Turks took their 
cuflomary refrefhment ; and we were glad to follow their example 
during the fhort interval which the halt afforded. Our pofition was 
on the edge of a very fine and extenfive plain, adjacent to which 



262 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

were feveral groves of olive-trees. We were there met by Captain 
Lacey, who had quitted El-Arifh on the preceding day, and was 
accompanied by his interpreter Ragio, now in a flate of recovery 
from his attack of the plague at Gaza. 

In purfuing our route towards Gaza, the view became ftill more 
interefting and agreeable, the groves of olive-trees extending from 
the place where we had halted to the town, in the front of which 
a fine avenue of thefe trees was planted. Gaza is fituated on an 
eminence, and is rendered piclurefque by the number of fine mina- 
rets which rife majeftically above the buildings, and by the beautiful 
date-trees which are interfperfed. At half pall: twelve o'clock we 
reached the ground deftined for our encampment, the Turks pitch- 
ing their tents in a plain to the eaftward of the town, at the diftance 
of about a mile from which we took our ftation on a commanding 
height. In approaching Gaza the road was crouded by male and 
female Arabs, the latter of whom welcomed his Highnefs the Vizier 
and the other Turkifli chiefs, by a moft unharmonious and fcreech- 
ing noife. The troops which had been fent forward fome time be- 
fore, were drawn up, and lined the road from the town to his 
Highnefs's tent. 

It appeared to be the intention of the Vizier to make fome ftay 
on the prefent ground of encampment ; and as there was no barley 
in ftore to hTue to the camels, horfes, mules, and alfes, thefe animals, 
the number of whom was now eftimated at no lefs than fifty thou- 
fand, were turned out to graze. 

The hill on which the million was encamped interjected feveral 
extenfive plains, the foil of which, being of a fuperior quality, would 



STTRIA, AND EGYPT. 2^3 

have richly repaid the inhabitants for the labour of cultivation, had 
they beftowed on it an appropriate attention. They appeared, how- 
ever, to have been deterred from doing this by the recent vifit paid 
them by the French troops, as well as by the expected arrival of the 
Turkifh army, whofe prefence they had almoft equal reafon to dread. 
There was accordingly in thefe plains but little appearance of culti- 
vation, at the fame time that every advantage was taken of the paf- 
turage they afforded. Over their furface numerous flocks of meep 
and herds of oxen were fcattered. The latter, like thofe we met 
with in every part of Syria, were fmall, their fize not exceeding that 
of an Alderney cow. 

So great was the fcarcity of barley in the camp, that, being under 
the neceffity of purchafing a fupply for my horfe, I paid, in the cur- 
rency of the country, a fum nearly equal to feven millings Englifh 
for a meafure containing about a gallon. 

On the 10th I went to Gaza to fee Ragio, Captain Lacey's inter- 
preter, and vifited the quarter inhabited by the Chriftians, who have, 
as well as every other religious fed:, a particular diftrid: affigned to 
them in each of the places where they refide. On entering the town 
to the eaftward, I paffed through a fmall gateway, near to which it 
is recorded that Samfon acquired fo much celebrity by carrying off 
the gates of the city, and where, having afterwards fallen into the 
hands of his enemies the Philiftines, he threw down a building, and 
buried beneath its ruins himfelf and three thoufand of his adverfaries. 

The fuburbs of Gaza are compofed of wretched mud huts ; but 
withinfide the town the buildings make a much better appearance 
than thofe we had in general met with in Syria. The ftreets are of 



264 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

a moderate breadth. I went to the bazar to purchafe a few necef- 
fary articles, but found it very indifferently fupplied. Many frag- 
ments of ftatues, columns, &c. of marble were feen in the walls and 
buildings in different parts of the town. 

In a valley lying to the eafl of the hill on which Gaza is fituated 
I afterwards vifited the ruins of a large mofque, the walls of which 
were of a remarkable thicknefs. Over the entrance I obferved feve- 
ral pieces of Turkifh fculpture on free-ftone, in a good ftate of pre- 
fervation. Within the building feveral plain marble columns lay 
difperfed on the ground. According to a tradition maintained by 
the inhabitants of Gaza, they had been conveyed thither by a San- 
giac in the courfe of the laft century. To the eaftward of the town 
I perceived alfo the ruins of feveral works which had been blown up 
by the French at the time they took poffeffion of Gaza. During 
their flay there I was informed that the plague fwept off five hun- 
dred of their men. Their inroad into Syria was indeed marked by 
difaflers of almofl every defcription, not lefs than twxlve thoufand 
of their beft troops having, according to authentic accounts, periflied 
either by the fword, by difeafe, by hunger, or by fatigue. 

When at Gaza I paid a vifit to the governor, by whom I was very 
politely entertained. He was indifpofed, as was like wife his fon, 
who laboured under ophthalmia, a difeafe which I obferved to be 
very prevalent among the inhabitants, many of whom were led 
through the flreets totally blind. 

The fuburbs and environs of Gaza are rendered infinitely agree- 
able by a number of large gardens, cultivated with the niceft care, 
which lie in a direction north and fouth of the town ; while others 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 265 

of the fame defcription run to a confiderable diftance weftward. The 
numerous plantations of olive and date-trees which are interfperfed, 
contribute greatly to the picturefque effect of the fcene exhibited by 
the furrounding plains. Thefe, on our arrival, were overfpread with 
flowers, the variegated colours of which difplayed every tint and 
every hue. Among thefe were the chryfanthemum, fcarlet ranun- 
culus, lupin, pheafant eye, tulip, china after, dwarf iris, lentil, daify, 
&c. all of them growing wild and abundantly, with the exception 
of the lupin, which was cultivated in patches regularly ploughed and 
fowed, with a view to colledl the feeds, which the inhabitants em- 
ploy at their meals, more efpecially to thicken their ragouts. The 
few corn fields which lay at a diftance difplayed the promife of a rich 
golden harveft ; and the view of the fea, diftant about a league, tended 
to diverfify ftill more the animated features of this luxuriant fcene. 

If a deficiency could be urged, not of the bounties which nature 
had bellowed, but arifing from the improvidence of the cultivators, 
it was that of the graifes, which ought to have been fown from time 
to time to render the pafturage good and nourifhing for the cattle. 
In the ftate, however, in which we found the plots furrounding the 
encampment, our half famiihed beafts found fome folace and re- 
fremment. 

From the eminence on which we had taken up our military fta- 
tion, we defcried in the evening a fail {landing off and on the coaft. 
The wind being contrary, Ihe was ftill in light, in nearly the fame 
fituation, on the morning of the 1 7th. We entertained a hope that 
lhe was laden with barley, the want of which was much felt in the 
camp. 

M M 



266 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

: On the 1 8th feveral vefTels hove in fight, {leering from the north- 
ward ; and a mefTenger, mounted on a hedgin, arrived in the camp, 
with the pleafing intelligence that the French had retired from Bel- 
beis, after having blown up and deftroyed the works. 

In confequence of a report circulated in the evening that an Eng- 
lifh frigate had been feen off El-Arifh, it was refolved to difpatch an 
Englifh officer to that place, to receive any information with which 
fhe might be charged for the Grand Vizier. There was now fome 
profpeci of a fupply of corn, the vefTels mentioned above having 
reached the port of Gaza from Jaffa, from which place an ample pro- 
vifion of bread had alfo reached the camp by land. It was expected 
that thefe fupplies would enable the army to move forward without 
lofs of time. 

In making a morning's excurfion to the fea-fhore, being attracted 
thither by the number of vefTels which had hoven in fight, and for 
the arrival of which we fo anxioufly panted, I vifited the port or 
landing-place of Gaza, an open beach highly dangerous to boats 
attempting to land, more efpecially with cargoes, the great furf 
which conftantly beats on the fhore expofing them at every inftant 
to the rifk of fwamping. Several fmall vefTels, laden with corn and 
provifions for the Turkifh army, were lying off at anchor, and fend- 
ing on more thefe fupplies in their boats. 

My excurfion led me through the delightful gardens of Gaza, 
which are very extenfive. They are filled with a great variety of 
choice fruit-trees, fuch as the fig, the mulberry, the pomegranate, 
the apricot, the peach, and the almond, together with a few lemon 
and orange-trees. There are alfo large fpots fet afide for the culti- 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 267 

vation of tobacco ; and it being the feafon for the removal of the 
plants, the inhabitants were bufied in placing them in regular rows. 
The enclomres for the cultivation of this plant were fenced in with 
the prickly pear-tree. The Pharaoh fig-tree, a fpecies of lycamore, 
the fruit of which the inhabitants eat when ripe, was alfo cultivated. 

Within two miles of Gaza I pafled through a village, in which 
the cottages were a fuperior kind of mud huts, conftrucled of mud 
bricks baked in the fun, with a roof compofed of the trunks of large 
trees, covered with a thick layer of mud, which ferves for a garden. 
The common mallow, a vegetable which the inhabitants eat when 
boiled, and of which they are very fond, grew abundantly on thefe 
earth-clad roofs, the verdant furface of which would have prevented 
me from recognizing the village until I came clofe to it, had it not 
been for the minaret of the mofque, a certain indication of the exig- 
ence of buildings on the fpot. On my return in the afternoon I was 
told that a herd of antelopes were grazing on a hill adjacent to the 
encampment. Having engaged a party, we rode out with our guns ; 
but the extraordinary fleetnefs of thefe animals foon eluded our pur- 
fuit. We faw large flocks of quails, which are very abundant in 
this part of Syria, as are alfo the jackals, by whofe lamentable hov\l- 
ings we were nightly infefted in the camp. Probably thefe were the 
animals which Samfon made ufe of to deftroy the harvefts of the 
Philiftines. 

The necefiary arrangements were made on the 19th for the fu- 
ture progrefs and active operations of the Ottoman army, with a 
view to which Mahomed Pacha was appointed Serafkier, or com- 
mander of the troops under the Vizier ; and Taher Pacha nominated 

M M 2 



£68 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

to the command of an advanced body of mounted Arnauts. Captain 
Lacey, with a fmall detachment of the royal artillery and royal mili- 
tary artificers, was ordered to accompany Mahomed Pacha ; and 
Captain Leake, of the royal artillery, alio at the head of a fmall de- 
tachment, was to accompany Taher Pacha. Thefe officers, both 
Britilh and Turkifh, were fumifhed with mftruc"tions, copies of 
which were refpeclively exchanged between the Grand Vizier and 
Colonel Holloway. Previoufly to his departure with Taher Pacha, 
Captain Leake was inverted with a pelice by order of the Vizier. 

A corps of about four hundred and fifty cavalry, fent by Djezzar 
Pacha, arrived in the encampment at this time. The Grand Vizier 
detached two thoufand of his troops towards El- Arim, for which 
destination Taher Pacha was to fet out in the courfe of a day or two. 

A difcharge of cannon was made on the morning of the 20th, on 
the occafion of the appointment of Mahomed Pacha to the poll and 
dignity of Serafkier. This event was alfo proclaimed to every part 
of the Turkifh army. The Vizier fhifted his tent to the centre of 
the encampments. 

Further accounts were on the 21 ft brought to the camp, to cor- 
roborate the reports refpecling the landing and fuccefsful progrefs of 
the Britifli troops in Egypt. On the following day Taher Pacha, 
accompanied by Captain Leake, of the royal artillery, and his de- 
tachment, fet off for El-Arifh with the advanced cavalry. 

In a vifit which I paid on the 23d to the Reis Effendi, who 
laboured under an ophthalmic complaint, his Excellency imparted 
to me the pleafing intelligence that the Turkifh troops were in 
general very healthy, and that the plague had entirely ceafed its 
ravages. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 269 

On the 24th the weather was uncommonly ftormy and tempef- 
tuous, infomuch that the torrents of rain which fell warned away 
the foil from around the tent-pegs, leaving many of the tents them- 
felves to fall to the ground. 

An Arab, who had left Salahieh three days before, brought advice 
on the 25th, that there were four hundred French only at that place. 
When the account of the landing of the Britifii was brought to 
General Regnier, he was at Belbeis, and inftantly collected his troops, 
amounting to about four thoufand, and proceeded to Cairo. From 
the ftatement of this individual it appeared that the General was 
attacked on his route by the Arabs. 

Such were at this time the embarralTments of the Turkifli army, 
from a fcarcity of fpecie for the payment of the troops, that the 
principal Ottoman officers were driven to the neceffity of fubfcrib- 
ing from three to five thoufand piaftres each, to furnifh a momentary 
relief. 

A corps of cavalry, confifting of from five to fix hundred, arrived 
in the camp on the above day. The New Adventure tranfport was 
ordered to Alexandria with difpatches. In the evening a heavy firing 
was heard from the weftward. 

Orders were hTued on the 26th for the army to advance ; but on 
the return of the perfons who had been fent forward to inlpecl: the 
ftate of the roads, it appeared, that the waters from the late falls 
of rain were fo much out as to oblige the Vizier to counteract the 
orders he had given. The JanhTaries, however, with the Topgis, 
and their trains of artillery, were fent forward, to proceed to Kahny- 
ounes, diftant from the encampment about twelve miles. We had*. 



270 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

on the preceding evening, been fupplied with frefh camels, as a ftep 
preparatory to our march. They were of the Arabian breed, fmaller, 
and more flender than thofe commonly employed in Syria, but har- 
dier, and capable of enduring great fatigues. Sixty of thefe animals 
were attached to the Britifh million, and, in confequence of a dif- 
pute which had arifen between one of our people and an Albanian, 
it w r as fettled that the Arab drivers mould take charge of the bag- 
gage- 

In the evening difpatches from Sir Ralph Abercrombie and Ad- 
miral Lord Keith were brought to the Vizier. 

On the 28th, at ten in the morning, the army began its march, 
the baggage having been fent off at a very early hour. Previoufly to 
our quitting the ground, further difpatches were received from Sir 
Ralph Abercrombie and Admiral Lord Keith, the contents of which 
the Vizier read and communicated at our firft halt. We were then 
fix miles diftant from Gaza, and had been obliged to crofs a river, 
formed by the late very abundant falls of rain, the waters of which 
were fo high, and the current fo ftrong and impetuous, that the paf- 
fage was effected by the army with great difficulty, feveral of the 
camels, with the baggage, tents, &c. having had a very narrow 
efcape from deftruclion. The difpatches contained the glorious 
news of the fuccefs of the Britifh troops in Egypt fince their land- 
ing, detailing the capture of Aboukir, as well as of the three actions 
which had terminated fo favourably to the Britifti arms, and in 
which the French had loft four thoufand men, comprehending that 
of three of their generals. On our reaching, at five in the afternoon, 
our new ground of encampment at Kahnyounes, the Vizier fired a 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 271 

royal falute of twenty-one guns, to celebrate the above events ; and 
in the evening, at fun-fet, we heard diftinctiy a difcharge of eleven 
guns, which appeared alfo to have been fired as a falute by the 
.advanced troops. 

Our day's march had been extremely pleafant ; and we now oc- 
cupied a dry and elevated ground, fupplying us with excellent water. 
Kahnyounes is a fmall village, fituated in a plain on the border of 
the defert. From the rifing ground on which the mimon was en- 
camped to the eaftward, it exhibited a very pleafing appearance, con- 
taining not only a handfome mofque, but a ruinous cattle, which 
added greatly to the picturefque effect. The Turks had taken up 
their pofition clofe to the village, the inhabitants of which are exclu- 
fively Arabs. The fine plains through which we had paffed this day, 
on our route thither, afforded excellent pafturage for cattle, and 
contained a greater proportion of graffes and clover than I had feen 
in any other part of the country. 

At day-break of the 29th the fignal was made to march ; and by 
eight o'clock the whole of the army was in motion, with the moll: 
favourable weather for its progrefs, and a fine refrefhing breeze from 
the weftward, to add to the gaiety which the glad tidings we had 
received had diffufed over every countenance. Immediately on our 
quitting the village we entered on the defert, in which I obferved a 
flirub, refembling our furze bum, mooting up at intervals from be- 
neath the fand. After a march of about two hours, we reached the 
boundary which feparates Afia from Africa. 

At this place, and in the vicinity of a well, which promifed us a 
fupply of good water, we made a halt, and afterwards rode between 



i 7 z TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

two columns of Egyptian granite, erected there, we were told, to 
mark diftincYiy the limits which define each of thefe quarters of the 
globe. Several portions of the fame material lay fcattered on the 
ground, apparently connected in paft ages with buildings erected on 
the fpot. 

Our late march was not fo dreary and unpleafant as we had reafon 
to apprehend ; but we were told that the defer t, in proportion as 
we mould penetrate ftill further, would affume a more difmal and 
folitary afpect. At one o'clock we arrived at a place called by the 
Arabs Zaca, or Sheick Sahwych, diftant about fixteen miles from 
Kahnyounes, where, for the firft time, we pitched our tents in a 
defert. We could not complain of the quality of the water we met 
with, notwithstanding it was blended with a confiderable portion of 
fand. We faw the holes, which were ftill open, faid to be dug by 
the French for their corn magazines. The defert exhibited an ap- 
pearance fufficiently barren ; but we contrived to pick up a few 
fhrubs for the purpofe of cooking. Barley was ftill fo fcarce in the 
camp, that it fold at two piaftres and a half, nearly four millings 
Englifh the feed. 

We left Zaca at feven in the morning of the 3oth, in the midft 
of a thick fog, which was extremely difagreeable, and the more fo 
as our tents and baggage had been fent forward very early, infomuch 
that we could neither fhift ourfelves, nor procure any flielter on our 
halts. Our fmall party, hitherto unprovided with horfes, fufFered 
greatly from the intenfe heat, as well as from the fatigues neceffarily 
attendant on a march over the heavy fands. The Vizier was not 
an unconcerned fpectator of the fufferings to which the troops were 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 373 

thus expofed, and promifed to furnifh them, on the fubfequent 
marches, either with horfes or camels. After a march of nearly fix- 
teen miles, we arrived at El-Arifh at one o'clock. In approaching 
the encampment before that place, the Grand Vizier was met by 
Taher Pacha, at the head of a large party of the troops, who had 
been marched out for that purpofe. We pitched our tents on 
a barren fand, at the diflance of about half a mile from the fea-fhore, 
to the north of the fortrefs. Several vefTels were lying at anchor, 
and their crews employed in landing the cargoes of provifions, bar- 
ley, &c. At El-Arifh the barley was fold at forty paras the meafure. 
The Turkifh fhips of war, lately arrived from Aboukir, were alfo 
lying off the port. 

The troops encamped at El-Arifh were healthy, having had no 
appearance of plague among them for the lafl fortnight. Shortly 
after our arrival, I vifited Taher Pacha, with whom I took coffee, 
and who fent to our camp ready drefTed provifions, which were 
highly acceptable. W e were fupplied with excellent water, fur- 
nifhed by the late heavy rains which had fallen on the mountains. 
The profpecl of the country around us, the furface of which was 
almofl entirely fand, with here and there a few fmall fhrubs growing 
in tufts, was wretched and dreary. The village of El-Arifh, near 
to the ruins of which a fort was frill llanding, had been deflroyed by 
the French, who had, when they captured the place, cut down nearly 
the whole of the date- trees by which it w 7 as ornamented. It was 
fituated at the diflance of two miles and a half from the fea. Our 
camp was fupplied with oranges, lemons, raifins, dried figs, and other 
fruits, brought by the merchant- vefTels from Cyprus, and the price 

N N 



274 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

of which was extravagantly high. With the exception of onions, 
no vegetables were to be obtained. 

The Vizier took meafures, on the 31 ft, for the fpeedy departure 
of the army from the ground it then occupied. According to the 
arrangements which had been made at Gaza the troops were in 
future to march in three divifions. 

In confequence of demands recently made by the Arnauts, who 
had had a meeting to debate on their grievances, refpecting the 
future fupply to be made to them of water, bifcuit, and barley, the 
Grand Vizier adopted the following regulations for the troops : In 
the firft place, that no other tents or baggage, except fuch as mould 
be found indifpenfably neceftary, mould be carried on the march. 
Secondly, that all fuch tents and baggage as mould be ufelefs at the 
moment, ihould follow the army. And, laftly, that the camels 
mould be employed for the exprefs purpofe of carrying the water, 
barley, and bifcuit, together with fuch tents, and fuch a proportion 
of baggage as might be allowed to accompany the army. — I dreaded, 
I muft confefs, the confequences of thefe regulations to our people, 
who would thus be left without tents to melter them from the effects 
of a hot and parching fun, and who were not, like the Turkifh 
troops, inured to the climate, and accuftomed to the privations to 
which the latter had been habituated from an early age. Under 
thefe circumftances, which gave rife to bitter and diftrefling reflec- 
tions, I lamented the nature of the fervice in which they were en- 
gaged, and the melancholy fituation in which I faw them plunged. 

Two thoufand five hundred troops arrived in camp on the even- 
ing of the above day. They confided, principally of the Arabs, 



SYRIA, AND EGYPTT i 75 

Avarees, who inhabit the eaftern defert, the weftern parts of which 
are occupied by the Mograbians. 

It was finally fettled on the lft of April, that a certain portion of 
the baggage and tents fhould be carried with the army ; and that 
the remainder mould be left in the charge of a trufty and refponfible 
perfon, to follow its movements with all convenient difpatch. 

Taher Pacha, accompanied by Captain Leake, marched on the 
2d towards Salahieh, with three thoufand men, and three pieces of 
artillery. Summons to the garrifons of Tineh and Salahieh were 
delivered to Captain Leake by Colonel Holloway, under the autho- 
rity of the Grand Vizier. Mahomed Pacha arrived in the encamp- 
ment from Gaza, with three thoufand men, and four pieces of 
artillery. 

Much firing among the Turkifh troops was heard in the camp 
on the 3d. It was occafioned by a violent difpute between two 
companies of Janiflaries, the 3/th and 65th, who, in the divifion of 
a quantity of barley which they had found and appropriated to them- 
felves, had come to hoftilities. In this conflict feveral of them were 
killed, and many others wounded. It happened that an Arnaut, who 
was paffing by during the affray, received a flight wound. This 
man made an immediate reprefentation to his corps, that it was the 
intention of the JanhTaries to fall on and butcher the Arnauts with- 
out diflinction. The effect of this mif-ftatement was, that the latter 
had recourfe to their arms, and w 7 ere proceeding to the moll alarm- 
ing meafures, which were, however, fortunately prevented by the 
ftrenuous interference of the principal Turkifli officers in the camp. 

During the whole of the morning it blew a violent gale, which 

N N 2 



276 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

raifed in the air tremendous clouds of fand, extremely haraffing to 
the eyes. At one o'clock there was a hail ftorm, accompanied by. 
thunder and lightning. In the afternoon the violence of the wind 
was not abated ; but it was attended by heavy fhowers, which im- 
peded the elevation of the fands : the impulfion they received was, 
however, fo great, that large hillocks were fuddenly formed in diffe- 
rent parts. The velTels were driven by the gale from El-Arifh, fo 
as to fubjecl: us to much eventual diftrefs. 

In the evening I rode to the fort, a fquare building provided with 
four towers, one at each of the angles. The French had begun two 
baftions, which they had not time to finim ; and to thefe Major 
Fletcher, of the royal engineers, made fome additions. Originally, 
the fort ftood in the centre of the village, which was now a heap of 
ruins. 

The high winds, and the drifting of the fands, continued to annoy 
us greatly on the 4th. On the following day there was not merely 
a fcarcity, but an abfolute want, of barley in the camp, infbmuch 
that the horfes and other animals, deprived of pafturage fince our 
arrival at El-Arifh, were left without food. As the blowing weather 
rendered the return of the vefTels driven out to fea impracticable, the 
Grand Vizier fent to' Gaza, about fifty miles diftant, for a fmall 
fupply of barley. 

Mahomed Pacha, with eight thoufand men, and five pieces of 
artillery, marched on the fame day. He was accompanied by Cap- 
tain Lacey, of the royal engineers, who was invefted, previoully to 
his departure, with a pelice. 

It was officially announced by the Reis Effendi, in the evening, 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 277 

that the Vizier would march forward on the Qth. His Excellency 
lent twelve horfes for the difmounted men belonging to the miffion. 
I was forry to learn from him that four cafes of plague had occurred 
on the preceding day in the camp. 

An individual died of plague on the Oth, within fifty yards of our 
tents. The indifference of the Turks to this difeafe was truly fur- 
prifing. Ibrahim Bey was pofitively encamped on the burial ground 
of El-Arifh, where the bodies of feveral thoufands of perfons, who 
had fallen victims to that difeafe during the courfe of the laft fix 
weeks, were interred. His own tent covered a part of the graves ! 

This being the fourth day our unfortunate horfes had paffed 
without food, we made a ftrong reprefentation in their behalf, in 
confequence of which a fmall proportion of damaged bifcuit-duft 
and decayed rice was ilTued to them. To fuch an extremity had 
thefe animals been reduced by hunger, that they had eaten their 
halters, together with the dung, and whatever lay within their reach. 
Several of them, as well as many of the camels, had perifhed. Our 
own fituation, reduced as we were to bad bifcuit and water, was 
almoft as deplorable. 

Riley, the perfon who had been fent with difpatches, returned on 
the morning of the 7th. He had exchanged his difpatches with 
an Englim officer commanding a fchooner ; but the veffel on board 
which he had embarked on his return, having been mipwrecked, 
thofe he was entrufted to bring back were unfortunately loft. He 
reported, that the Capitan Pacha had reached Aboukir with ten 
thoufand men ; but that Damietta was ftill in the poffeffion of the 
French. 



278 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

We were expofed on the Qth to a true kampfin. The heat and 
clofenefs of the air were fo extremely oppreffive, as to induce an 
extraordinary languor and faintnefs. The atmofphere was hazy 
throughout ; and the wind blew on the body as if it had paffed 
through the medium of a heated oven. During the continuance of 
this morbid ftate of the weather, it was from the fouth-eaft, fouth, 
and fouth- weft. 

In the evening feveral vefTels appeared off the coaft, but they could 
not come to anchor, on account of a fmart and unfavourable breeze 
from the fouth-weft. In the mean time the Vizier received a fmall 
fupply of barley from Gaza. The party by which it was efcorted, 
had, on its return, been attacked by a band of Bedouin Arabs, who 
had taken feveral of the mules, and killed one of the people. 

Five of the above veflels anchored on the 10th, and landed eight 
hundred Arnauts from Conflantinople, together with a fupply of 
corn, which was highly acceptable. 

Intelligence reached us on the 1 2th, that Salahieh had been taken 
poffeffion of by Taher Pacha, and by the troops who had quitted the 
encampment a few days before. It appeared that on the approach 
of the Turkifh forces, the French, about five hundred ftrong, had 
made a precipitate retreat towards Cairo. Previoufly to their depar- 
ture, they had deftroyed the works in the interior of the place, and 
fet fire to the buildings. 

A French deferter, who came into camp, and furrendered himfelf 
to the Vizier, reported, that he had left Damietta four days before, 
having travelled alone, and on foot, from Tineh, and remained dur- 
ing three days without water. He reprcfented the French at Dami- 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 279 

ctta as being in fuch critical circumftances, that they would rejoice 
at the approach of the Turkifh army, to fumilh them with a pretext 
for relinquifhing the place. 

A falute was fired in the camp on the occafion of the capture of 
Salahieh, an account of which was tranfmitted over land to the 
commander in chief of the Britifh forces. 

During the night we loft the greater part of the camels, together 
with their drivers, who had fled to the mountains. This unfortu- 
nate event was likely to fubject the army to great rifks, and very 
ierious difficulties, fmce our fpeedy departure from El-Arilh was 
thus rendered impracticable. Detachments of cavalry were on the 
1 3th, fent off in their purfuit. Thus, with the above lofs, the occa- 
fional deprivation of provifions, the plague, and the frequent inteftine 
quarrels among the Turkifh foldiery, we were furrounded, in our 
forlorn fituation in the defert, by a train of threatening evils, among 
which may be enumerated, peftilence, and famine, and battle, and 
murder, and fudden death. 

Several veffels anchored in the road. It was reported that a part 
of thofe which had been driven off by the late gales, had been 
wrecked on the adjacent coaft. 

A considerable number of veffels laden with corn came to anchor 
on the 14th. To enable us to pafs the defert with greater eafe, it 
was determined to fend the fpare tents and heavy baggage by water 
to Tineh. For this purpofe eleven tents, and fuch of the baggage 
as was not indifpenfably neceffary to the miffion, were embarked on 
board a Turkifh veffel bound to that place, together with gunner 
Fofter, and the whole of the civil artificers, whofe fervices would 



2 8o TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

not be neceffary in the interim. Five tents only were retained for 
the party. The Vizier and principal Turkifh officers attended on 
the beach, to fuperintend the embarkation of the artillery and ftores 
deftined for Tineh, as well as to prevent any confufion which might 
refult from the landing of the barley. After fuch an interval of 
diflrefs as had been experienced in the camp, it was natural to pre- 
fume that the troops would manifeft great impatience on the land- 
ing of the fupplies. 

The camels which had been carried off by their drivers were fHll 
miffing. Two hundred, however, of thefc animals were brought in 
on the 15th by a flieick, who, after having received a handfome 
prefent, fet off with his camels and people in the night ; at which 
time a hedgin, the property of one of the dragomen belonging to the 
miffion, was ftolen. 

An Englifh fchooner, commanded by Lieutenant Milne, arrived 
on the 1 7th, having on board Major Miffett, with difpatches. We 
learned through this channel that Major M c Kerras, of the engineers, 
had been killed, and Major Fletcher made prifoner, in a reconnoitring 
party on the water, previoufly to the landing of the Britifli army. 
A French fleet with feven thoufand troops was expected at Alexan- 
dria from Toulon. L'Africaine, one of the frigates belonging to 
this fleet, had been captured by the Englifh frigate the Phoebe, 
Captain Barlow. The Englifh, under the command of Colonel 
Spencer, and the Turks, with the Capitan Pacha, were before 
Rofetta, which was expected to fall very fpeedily. 

An overland difpatch to the two Britifli commanders in chief was 
fcnt off by an Arab ; and an order tranfmitted by the Vizier to 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT, 281 

Mahomed Pacha, to fend a body of Turkifli cavalry to act with 
the Britifh army. 

At fix in the morning of the 10th the trumpet was founded to 
prepare for the march. In confequence of the fcarcity of camels, 
the Vizier was to move forward with a part only of the Turkifli 
army. For the fame reafon the party belonging to the miffion to 
march with the Vizier's detachment, was confined to Colonel Hol- 
loway, Major Hope, Mr. Whiteman, fecretary, Mr. Pink, draughtf- 
man, myfelf, a ferjeant, and five men. The others were to follow 
with the remainder of the Turkifli army, as foon as beads of burden 
could be procured. Strict orders were given to keep a watchful 
eye over the camel- drivers, in croffing the defert, as there was a pof- 
fibility of their deferting with their camels — a difafter which would 
expofe the whole of the army to the rifk of perifhing on its pafTage. 

A view of El-Arifli, the flation we were about to quit, will be 
found in Plate XVI. 

The Vizier quitted the ground of encampment at noon ; and at 
three in the afternoon we followed. Prior to our departure, Major 
MifTett embarked for Aboukir, with anfwers from the Vizier and 
Colonel Holloway to the difpatches with which he was charged. 

After a very agreeable march of two hours along the fea-lhore, we 
arrived at the wells of Meffoudieh, the place where the traveller 
takes his fupply of water, before he proceeds to crofs the remaining 
part of the defert. Neither habitation nor inhabitant was to be feen ; 
nor was there fo much as the appearance of brufh-wood to diverfify 
the furface of the arid fands. It was with difficulty that a few dried 
vegetables could be raked together to heat a little coffee. By dig- 

o o 



282 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

ging wells in the fands to the depth of two or three feet, water was, 
however, readily procured : and notwithftanding we were fo near 
to the fea-fhore, it was good and fweet. As the route from this 
ftation to Catieh occupies three days, in the courfe of which no 
drinkable water can be procured, it was neceffary to make an appro- 
priate provifion of this neceffary article ; and for this purpofe we 
were furnifhed with the fkins of goats properly prepared. The 
camels and other animals were laden with bifcuit, barley, and water, 
the three effentials for the eroding of the defert. 

The Reis Effendi, who came up after us with the remainder of 
the Turkifh army, informed us that when the troops commanded by 
Taher Pacha arrived at Salahieh, they purfued the enemy, feveral of 
whom they killed in their flight. Among the purfuers, there were 
feveral Moors, who were well mounted, and very expert in the ufe 
of their fire-arms, w r hich they difcharge with great effect when on 
full fpeed. Their chief was unfortunately killed in the attack. 

At midnight our baggage was fent off under an efcort ; and at fix 
in the morning of the 20th, we proceeded on our route. At the 
expiration of two hours and a half we halted for three quarters of an 
hour ; and at half paft one reached our new ground of encampment, 
Barrahcat, where we immediately pitched our tents. This fpot had 
been evidently the bed of a fait lake in paft ages, large quantities 
of marine fhells lying fcattered on its furface, together with much 
faline matter. We took the precaution to dig wells ; but the water 
was fo fait and brack ifh as to be unfit for the cattle. On fubjecling 
it to an analyfis, I found it to contain a large proportion of common 
fait. The progrefs we had made on this day's march was about fif- 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 283 

teen miles ; and in purfuing our route we were gratified by the view 
of the furprifing vifual deception, which the French term mirage, 
and which has been defcribed with great ingenuity by Monge, of 
the French National Inftitute. It is peculiar to the defert, and pre- 
fents the diftant appearance of water with fuch an air of truth and 
reality, that the madows of the camels who were in advance, feemed 
to be reflected on the apparent watery furface. To give a more 
extraordinary effect to the illufion, the bodies of thefe animals ap- 
peared to be narrowed and elongated upwards, fo as to give them 
the appearance of trunks of trees, the branches of which had been 
lopped off. The moft elevated of the diftant fand hills reprefented 
light clouds ; while the fmaller ones appeared like mips under a prefs 
of fail in the midft of beautiful lakes. This phenomenon was more 
particularly apparent on the levels, which were in fome parts covered 
with a faline fubftance, finely cryftallized, and very mining and bril- 
liant. A portion of this faline matter I collected for future experi- 
ments. 

We left our ground on the 21 ft, at between three and four in the 
morning; and, as it was not yet day-light, were preceded by guides 
carrying torches. We loft our way, notwithftanding, and were de- 
, tained for nearly two hours. During this day's march we made two 
halts ; and at length, at half paft four in the afternoon, reached our 
ground of encampment at Bir-el-habt, after a very laborious and 
fatiguing march of thirty miles. Great numbers of fkeletons of 
camels, horfes, and other animals were fcattered on the route. The 
earlier part of our march was tolerably agreeable, with the exception 
of our having loft our way; but during the laft nine miles we had 

002 



2^4 TRAVELS EST ASIATIC TURKEY, 

to pafs over very heavy fands, and an uneven ground. The heat of 
the weather was at the fame time very oppreffive. We were, how- 
ever, enabled to procure a fupply of brackifti water for the cattle. 
In the evening the Topgis and Dehlis moved from the ground with 
their guns. 

I could diftinguifh the notes of the nightingale on our march : 
they were very fliort, and much inferior to thofe of the fame bird 
in England. Several plants and a few flowers were fcattered at 
intervals. 

At this time intelligence reached the encampment, that the ad- 
vanced Ottoman army was at Korin and Belbeis. 

We marched at fix in the morning of the 2 2d, and at noon reached 
Theah, diftant from Catieh about a mile and a half. The route 
thither was very heavy and irregular, infomuch that to perform a 
diftance of fifteen miles we were under the neceflity of making two 
halts. In the vicinity of our encampment there were feveral fine 
date-trees. The wells in general contained good water ; but in one 
of them it was black and offenfive, like that which is procured at 
Harrowgate. The Turks afferted that the French had thrown into 
it a quantity of gunpowder. 

On our route great numbers of carcafes were fcattered. We were 
met by a meffenger from Mahomed Pacha, who tranfmitted the in- 
formation that Tineh had been taken poffeffion of by a detachment 
of Turkifh cavalry. In abandoning the above place, the French 
had left behind two guns, and a quantity of barley, and other ftores. 
The two Pachas were ft ill at Belbeis and Korin, at the latter of 
which places, according to the contents of a letter from Captain 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 285 

Lacey, a great mortality, fuppofed to be occafioned by the plague, 
prevailed among the Turks. It was more probably, however, owing 
to conftant fatigues, and the want of a good nourifhing diet. 

The early part of the morning had been clouded over, which ren- 
dered the heat lefs oppreffive ; but at ten o'clock, when we were 
within two hours march of our deftination, the heat fuddenly be^ 
came fo extremely intenfe, that, to ufe a vulgar, but expreffive 
phrafe, we were literally broiled by the fun as we trod the fcorch- 
ing fands. The appearance of the defert was here, however, much 
improved : we met with feveral plants and flowers on our way, 
together with a few date-trees ; and in approaching Theah, found a 
greater proportion of green fhrubs than we had encountered in any 
other part of the defert. In feveral of the hollows there was a fuf- 
ficient degree of moiflure to promote vegetation ; and in thefe Ipots 
there is no doubt but that good water might be procured with little 
trouble. The numbers and varieties of the birds which were flying 
about them, w T ere a ftrong evidence of the truth of this obferva- 
tion. 

It appeared that a village had once flood on the fite of our encamp- 
ment, fragments of red bricks, &c. being fcattered over the furface 
of the fands. In the Arabic language alfo, Theah implies a village ; 
but we could not difcover the veftiges of any buildings. The wells 
were fituated beneath a groupe of fine date-trees. It was the inten- 
tion of the Vizier to halt at this place for two days, to give time for 
the artillery and ftragglcrs to come up, as well as to allow fome repofe 
to his army, which had had to perform a haraffing march of nearly 
feventy miles, in the fpace of four days, over what was certainly to 



286 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

be confidered as the worft part of the defert, in confequence of the 
difficulty of procuring water after quitting the wells of Meffoudieh. 

A party of camels proceeded to Tineh in the evening, to bring 
back a further fupply of barley and bifcuit. They returned in the 
afternoon of the following day ; and in the evening Colonel Hollo- 
way fent, with the authority of the Grand Vizier, a fummons to the 
fort of Lefbie at Damietta. It was conveyed by Mr. Pink, accom- 
panied by a Turkifli fecretary, provided by the Reis Effendi. The 
purport of the anfwer brought back was, that the French command- 
ant would not accept the terms held out to him. 

I employed myfelf on the 24 th in examining the waters I had 
collected at the different places at which we had flopped in our paf- 
fage through the defert, and collected the refiduous matter for future 
experiments. That which I had obtained from Tineh was of an 
excellent quality, and having been found in the bafin of the caftle 
evacuated by the French, I conjectured it to have been brought from 
the Nile. 

In the evening two hundred and fifty camels laden with barley 
arrived from Mahomed Pacha. By this opportunity letters were 
received from Captains Lacey and Leake. Taher Pacha had advanced 
two miles beyond Belbeis. 

On the 25th we rofe at half paft two in the morning, and at 
three .o'clock the baggage moved off the ground. We were, how- 
ever, detained until near eight o'clock by fome arrangements it was 
neceffary to make for fending off a party of camels to Tineh ; and 
the interval which elapfed hung very heavily on our hands. At ten 
o'clock we halted for nearly an hour, and reached our ground of 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 287 

encampment at Bir-denedar at two o'clock, after having performed 
a march of eighteen miles. There were feveral date-trees on the 
fpot ; and the red bricks which lay fcattered on the grounds indi- 
cated that it had been formerly covered by dwellings. The water 
which we found at this place was fait, bitter, and of the worfl qua- 
lity. The weather was extremely hot during our march, which, 
being over a rough and uneven ground, covered with deep and 
heavy fands, was performed with infinite fatigue. There was, how- 
ever, a greater abundance of fhrubs than we had met with on our 
preceding marches. Half an hour after we had quitted our late 
encampment, we paffed over a very rough piece of ground, which, 
being covered with large quantities of falme matter, appeared to 
have been a fait work. Several pits in which the fait water had 
been left to evaporate, had been apparently dug out for that pur- 
pofe, and frill contained a quantity of pure and white fait. Many of 
the date-trees in the vicinity of Catieh lay on the ground, having 
been cut down by the French for various purpofes on their retreat 
from Syria. 

In the courfe of the day's march the Vizier fent forward a party 
of Dehlis to prepare a caufeway over a river, which had formerly- 
been provided with a capacious ftone bridge. To impede the pro- 
grefs of the Ottoman army, the enemy had thrown down this bridge ; 
but the impediment was foon removed by the Dehlis, who effected 
their purpofe in the courfe of a few hours. The river had apparently 
been formed by the Nile in its periodical inundation. 

Some authentic intelligence having been received relative to the 
enemy's movements, it was judged necefTary to be very particular in 



288 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

the arrangements far the artillery, for which purpofe Major Hope 
gave feveral necelTary directions. 

Sheick Haflan arrived in the afternoon with difpatches from 
Admiral Blanket, who had obtained pofleflion of Suez. Thefe dif- 
patches were inftantly forwarded to the Britifh commanders in chief. 
About the fame time we received the intelligence of the death of 
Mourad Bey, to whofe command Elphi Bey had fucceeded. 

We rofe at two in the morning of the 26th, and fet out at five. 
After a march of two hours and a half, we met with large pieces of 
water, which had been in feveral places formed into lakes and rivu- 
lets by the overflowing of the Nile. It was brackifh, and far from 
being of a good quality. In this part of the defert there was a great 
quantity of green brufh-wood. The ground was more level, with 
a lefs proportion of fand, and the travelling by no means difagree- 
able. At eight o'clock we halted for half an hour ; and at ten 
o'clock pa{Ted the river over which the caufeway had been thrown. 
At eleven o'clock we reached the ground deftined for our encamp- 
ment at Kantara, and found there plenty of good water, together 
with flirubs and grafles for the cattle. As an abundance of pigeons 
and ducks were flying, I took my gun and ihot feveral of the former, 
which were highly acceptable to our mefs, we being reduced to the 
fpare diet of bread, coffee, and a little rice. 

In confequence of the advices which were received of the capture 
of Rofetta by the combined Britifli and Turkifh forces, the Vizier 
fired a feu de joye and royal falute. 

We rofe at half pad two on the 27th, and at five o'clock were 
on foot. We halted twice, about an hour each time, during our 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. ■ 289 

march, and arrived at Salahieh at noon. The latter part of the 
route was very fandy and laborious. On our approaching Salahieh 
the quantity of fhrubs gradually diminifhed, and at length totally 
difappeared, infomuch that we could not procure fticks for fuel to 
boil our coffee. The afpect of the country which immediately fur- 
rounded us was dreary, confiding entirely of an extenfive defert plain, 
or level but to the weftward and northward of Salahieh lay im- 
menfe woods of date-trees, which extended for feveral miles. We 
were encamped to the fouth of the fort, at the diftance of nearly a 
mile. 

On the approach of the Grand Vizier to Salahieh, his Highnefs 
halted under a grove of date-trees, to arrange the manner in which 
he mould make his public entry, as well as the form of his encamp- 
ment. The Turkifti army afterwards marched in the following 
order ; — Firft, a line of cavalry, fmall parties of horfemen riding up 
and down in front of the line, and firing w T hile on full fpeed. Next 
another line of Arnauts, with the led horfes of his Highnefs, and the 
priefts, or imaums, tinging hymns. Next followed Colonel Hol- 
loway, Major Hope, &c. the Turkifh officers of ftate in fucceffion, 
and his Highnefs the Vizier, with his bands of mufic, and attendants. 
And Laflly, a body of cavalry, Dehlis, clofed the rear. 

Thus had we furmounted a troublefome, fatiguing, and hazardous 
march acrofs the defert (a diftance of about one hundred and fifty 
miles from Kahnyounes to Salahieh), but not without the lofs of 
many animals, and feveral men. The lamentable fcenes which oc- 
cafionally prefented themfelves were truly diftreffing to a feeling 
mind. During the tedious and haraffing marches to which we had 

p p 



2 9 o TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

been fubjecled, it was found that in particular places which prefented 
the greateft difficulties, the horfes were not capable to drag the ar- 
tillery. In thefe cafes the camels were reforted to with great effect 
and advantage, in confequence of their very docile nature and fteady 
draught. 

The plate which forms the frontifpiece of this work, reprefents 
the march of the Turkifh army through a part of the defert. The 
Grand Vizier is feated on horfeback, among a groupe of Turks, at- 
tendants, &c. His likenefs is delineated with great fidelity; and 
in addition to this trait of refemblance, a very precife idea will be 
formed by the reader, on his confulting the plate, of the Turkim 
carriages, called tartavans, employed by the Vizier and principal 
officers of ftate on the march. The vehicles employed by the Turks 
in tranfporting their fick, and the fackars ufed for carrying water, 
are alfo reprefented in the engraving, with a variety of other fubjects, 
which their nature fufficiently explains. 

As foon as we had reached Salahieh, the Arabs brought into the 
encampment for fale a variety of articles of food, which were pur- 
chafed with great eagernefs by the half famifhed military. They 
alfo brought in ftraw and unthrefhed barley for the cattle. The 
harveft had been very abundant ; but fuch had been the loffes which 
the population had fuftained by war and difeafes, that the corn, 
although ripe, had not yet been got in. The inundation of the pre- 
ceding year had been remarkably high, and had produced very abun- 
dant crops. 

The Vizier fired a royal falute on his arrival. At four in the after- 
noon there was a fmart breeze from the fouth, accompanied by a 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 291 

gentle fall of rain. The horizon was at the fame time obfcured ; 
and the air fo clofe and fultry as to be productive of much oppreffion 
and languor. 

I walked in the evening to a fmall village inhabited by Arabs, 
who refide in huts conftructed of mud and canes, and the tops of 
which are covered with reeds, branches of date-trees, and other fimi- 
lar materials. Nothing could be more wretched than the picture 
which thefe huts, and thofe who dwelt in them, afforded. Their 
proprietors were not, however, without their refources. They raifed 
poultry; and having herds of cows, goats, and Iheep, were thus 
enabled to fupply the troops with milk, yourt, eggs, cheefe, and 
butter. They were confequently very ferviceable neighbours. The 
above articles were cheap on our arrival ; but, as is always cuftomary 
in camps, there was little doubt but their price would foon be 
advanced. 

The ground being in part covered by graffes produced by the late 
inundation, prefented a verdant furface, which had an agreeable 
effect: on the fight, accuftomed as it had been to the vivid reflection 
from the burning fands in croffing the defert. 

The civil artificers who had been fent round by water, arrived on 
the J28th from Tineh, having left behind the principal part of the 
baggage, in confequenee of their precipitate departure from the vef- 
fel on board of which they had been embarked. We were under 
fome apprehenfion for the fafety of our baggage. 

We partook this day of the Aefli of a young buffalo, which we 
found good and palatable. The inundation of the part of the defert 
furrounding Salahieh is explained in the following manner by the 



2 $2 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

Turks. On the overflowing, they fay, of the Nile, the earth becomes 
fully impregnated with water, which, being forced up to the furface, 
exudes from beneath, and overflows the grounds. In paffing through 
the ftrata of earth, it meets with portions of faline matter, which it 
diffolves, and thus acquires its briny tafte. Being afterwards evapo- 
rated by the heat of the fun, it depofits, on the furface of the earth, 
its fait, and forms the fait lakes w r hich are met with at different 
intervals. 

It grieved me to notice that the difeafe of the eyes, fo common 
in Syria, prevailed alfo in this part of Egypt. Perfons of every age 
were alike fubjecl: to its attacks ; and, independently of the nume- 
rous cafes of blindnefs I obferved, the inhabitants in general dif- 
played, in their meagre and wan countenances, a predifpofition to 
this and other difeafes. 

On the appearance of the Turkifli army, the five hundred French 
who were in the fortrefs of Salahieh, fled : not with fo much 
precipitation, however, but that they found time to deftroy a con- 
fiderable part of the interior of the work and detached buildings. 
It pofTefles confiderable ftrength, and is provided with a wet ditch, 
well palifadoed. Sixteen guns appeared to have been mounted ; 
and a part of thefe were found fpiked among the ruins, together 
with feveral fliells, &c. which had been thrown into the well. 
Within the fort is a mofque, the lofty minaret of which had ferved 
for a look-out. There had alfo been excellent barracks, now in 
ruins, within the fortrefs : it appeared to me that they were ca- 
pable of receiving a thcufand men. Confidering that it was built 
jn a plain, this fortrefs is of a very extraordinary conffcruction. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 293 

Further arrangements and new difpofitions were made for the 
Turkifh artillery, and fuch other precautions taken as our approach 
towards the enemy rendered neceffary. 

Major Hope quitted the encampment on the 30th, on his way to 
Cairo, with proportions from his Highnefs the Vizier and Colonel 
Holloway to the French commandant of that place. The Major 
was accompanied by the Secretary to the Sublime Porte. 

Lieutenant Milne, of the Goza fchooner, arrived at noon, with 
overland difoatches from Tineh. He fet out on his return on the 
following day, at which time a difpatch from Admiral Blanket was 
received and forwarded to the Britifli commander in chief. Other 
difpatches were alfo forwarded to the admiral by Sheick Gredded, 
who was directed to tranfact the bufinefs in that quarter for the 
Britim forces. 

On the 2d of May I found in my tent the dried fkeleton of a large 
reptile, apparently a fpecies of the lizard, which, notwithstanding it 
had loft its tail, meafured eighteen inches from the head to the 
flump of that part. It had four legs, with five toes on the fore feet, 
and four on the hind feet, fharply pointed. The furface of the body 
was fcaly. 

The period was now arrived for the fall of the rains in Ethiopia ; 
and it was certain that their effects would be foon manifefted in 
Egypt,, by the riling of the Nile, and the general inundation of the 
country. A loofe, dry, and fandy foil is in this way rendered fo fer- 
tile and productive, that it is faid the inhabitants are occasionally 
obliged to mix fand with the new foil, produced by the overflowing 
of the waters, to temper its too rich and luxuriant quality. 



m TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

The heat was very oppreffive on the 3d, when the kampfin pre- 
vailed, and induced great debility and faintnefs. I took a morning's 
ride into the country, and palled through feveral extenfive woods 
of date-trees, among which I faw a variety of villages compofed of 
the fame wretched mud huts with thofe I have already defcribed. 
Beneath the made of the date-trees the inhabitants raife barley on 
extenfive levels, on which they alfo grow tobacco. The corn was 
ripe, but not yet cut down. Several of the levels were .ft 1 11 rnarfhy, 
owing to the late inundation, which had deftroyed fome of the plan- 
tations of barley and tobacco. The cows and bullocks were fine, 
and of a large breed, with fhort horns. I noticed feveral buffaloes, 
which were of a grey colour, and very unfightly in their appearance. 
The inhabitants were in tattered garments, which fcarcely covered 
their nakednefs, miferably pale and wan, and as wretched as the 
dwellings which ferved them for a ftielter. The women had the 
face covered with a piece of dirty linen. They are inured to the la- 
borious employments of the field, and carry on the head heavy bur- 
dens, fuch as loads of provender for the cattle, &c. The melons are 
faid to grow here to a very large fize, and to be finely flavoured. In 
one of the villages I faw this fruit in bloffom. Inftead of being 
threflied, the corn is trodden, as in Turkey. 

Our party which had accompanied the Tefterdar, arrived on the 
5th from El-Arim ; and at the fame time Major Hope, and the 
fecretary to the Sublime Porte, arrived from Cairo, with the reply 
©f the French General Beliard. 

In the afternoon of the Oth we had a fudden gull: of wind from 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 295 

the weftward, the horizon being in every part obfcured, with a wild 
and tremendous afpecf, as if the atmofphere had been filled with 
combuftion. 

Ibrahim Pacha quitted the encampment with three thoufand 
men, to proceed againft Damietta, in confequence of the terms 
offered by the Vizier not having been accepted. 

We marched at ten in the morning of the / th, and about two in 
the afternoon arrived at Korin, a diftance of fixteen miles. During 
the greater part of our route, we marched over fands. As we ap- 
proached the place of our deflination, the appearance of the country 
improved, the foil being more firm and gravelly. The fine planta- 
tions of date- trees continued to enliven our march until we reached 
our deflination. We met with feveral hollows filled with the water 
which the inundation had left ; and in the parts where the ground 
was moiftened we obferved that the inhabitants cultivated the lupine 
with great attention. The plants were extremely luxuriant, and 
grew to the height of more than fix feet : on one of the ftalks I 
counted upwards of an hundred and fifty pods. The barley culti- 
vated in patches was alfo very promifing. We faw an abundance 
of wild fowl on our route, in the profecution of which we made but 
one halt. 

Korin is a long village, in pafling through which nothing is to be 
feen except the walls of the mud huts. There is only one building 
in brick, a decayed mofque. The complexion of the wretched, half 
naked inhabitants, many of whom are afflicted with blindnefs, is 
nearly black. They brought us water in white earthen pitchers, 
Within little enclofures walled with mud they have various kinds of 



296 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

fruit-trees, fuch as the date, the Pharaoh fig, the lemon, lime and 
orange, the lotus or lote,* and the pomegranate. In paffing through 
the village, we were nearly blinded by the immenfe clouds of fandy 
particles which enveloped us on all fides. 

The troops encamped at a little diftance from the village, to the 
eaftward. On one fide of us lay extenfive fields of wheat, barley, 
and lupine, while on the other fide a barren defert was in our view. 
The foil of the cultivated fpots was gravelly, but was covered in 
fome parts by the rich black mud which the inundation of the Nile 
had left. I collected parcels of the lupine feeds and wheat, to try 
the effect of their cultivation in England. 

In our route we met with a confiderable number of mud built vil- 
lages, furrounded by high walls made of earth or mud, fo as to form 
a fquare, at each of the angles of which there is either a round or a 
fquare tower. Either there is a fmall hole for the entrance into each 
of the villages, or a ladder is employed to gain accefs to it. Such 
is the uniform conftruclion of the buildings, and it is moll: probable 
for the following reafons : It was neceffary, in the firft place, that 
the inhabitants mould fecure themfelves, their flocks and cattle, from 
the general inundation of- the Nile ; ^nd, fecondly, they had to dread 
the attacks of the Bedouin Arabs, who are confr.antly hoft.ile to the 
Fellahs, or tribes of cultivators. 

The inhabitants of Korin had recently fuffered from the plague, 
which was ftill making great ravages in feveral adjacent villages. 

On the morning of the 8th the Grand Vizier and Rcis Effendi, 

* This tree bears a pod refembling a bean ; the fruit, when ripe, has a fweetilh 
odour., and is very grateful to the cattle. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 297 

accompanied by Colonel Holloway and Major Hope, marched to 
Eelbeis, with a fmall part only of their retinue. This fudden mea~ 
fure was occafioned by difcontents which had broken out at the 
above place among the troops of Mahomed Pacha, but which were 
foon quieted by the prefence of the Vizier. The army was dill to 
remain encamped for a few days at Korin. 

From the time of our arrival in Egypt, the fky had been generally 
obfeure during the day, with great hazinefs of the atmofphere, which 
conftantly difappeared in the evening. It is faid that this hazy ftate 
of atmofphere above the level of the horizon, is peculiar to the 
country. 

In the foil in the vicinity of Korin I found feveral beautiful (tones, 
carnelions, agates, &c. a fmall collection of which I made. In the 
afternoon, out of a covey of partridges, I (hot a female, the plumage 
of which was very delicate. The head and neck, which were of a 
dark fawn colour, were fmall, like thofe of a dove. The wings were 
long, with alternate white and black feathers ; and the body of a 
fawn colour, with white and black rings on the breaft. The bird 
was fmaller than an Englim partridge. 

I vifited, on the 9th, feveral of the neighbouring villages, which, 
both with refpecl to the inhabitants and the dwellings, might vie 
En wretchednefs with thofe I have lately defcribed. Notwithfland- 
ing there were abundant crops of wheat and barley, and fine herds 
of goats, fheep, and other animals grazing in the plains, ftill nothing 
could be more deplorable than the appearance of the miferable <rul- 
tivators. In the gardens I faw melons, pomegranates, and tobacco 
plants. They are irrigated by the means of a well, to which earthen. 



298 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

veflels are attached ; and the water is conveyed to every part of the 
ground by furrows cut out in raifed caufeways. 

Flocks of doves, which, as they are not molefted by the inhabi- 
tants, are very tame, frequent the cultivated grounds. 

On the 1 oth difpatches from the Britifli commander in chief were 
received, and others fent off in return. A Turk, who had remained 
prifoner with the French fince the retreat of the Vizier the preced- 
ing year, and who had at length effected his efcape from Rahma- 
nieh, came into camp, and brought fome account of the fuccelTes of 
the Britiih troops in the vicinity of that poft. He ftated that flrong 
patrols had been detached towards Cairo. 

About this time a prefent was forwarded by the Vizier to the 
Britifh fleet and troops at Suez. It confifted of a hundred bullocks, 
and a thoufand fowls. 

On the 11th, at half paft five in the morning, we marched from 
Korin, and reached Belbeis about ten o'clock, having performed a 
diftance of fixteen or feventeen miles, over a pleafant gravelly road. 
The inhabitants were bufily employed in getting in their corn, which 
lay in great abundance on the ground. Inftead of cutting it, they 
pluck it up by the roots, and coiled; it in heaps, each within his own 
particular enclofure, where the grain is trodden out. We met with 
feveral plantations of the henna. The dried leaves of this mrub 
form the celebrated yellow, or orange- colour dye, fo much in ufe in 
Turkey, &c. The branches of it are cut low down to render it 
■ftubby. The inhabitants alfo cultivate clover, lentils, and the muf- 
tard plant. The country is open, being a complete flat, or level ; 
and the road one continued caufeway, on which the natives and 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 299 

their cattle rendezvous at the time of the inundation, to fhelter 
themfelves from the floodings of the plains. 

We palTed through feveral villages, the inhabitants of which were 
the fame objects in point of wretchednefs with thofe we had ob- 
ferved on other parts of our route. They were nearly naked, and 
the victims of difeafe and blindnefs. The children beneath the age 
of fix years were completely naked. It was diftreffing to fee fo 
much mifery in fo fine and fertile a country. 

The troops we found at Belbeis were in an intrenched encamp- 
ment. A redoubt had been conftruclied by Captain Lacey. 

The weather was oppreffively hot on the 1 2th. In a marabout 
adjoining to our camp, the walls of which were very thick, fo as 
perfectly to prevent the rays of the fun from penetrating within, the 
thermometer at noon flood at 97 ; and on the pole of my tent, 
at 104. 

In the evening a difpatch was received by the Vizier from the 
Capitan Pacha, with the information that Rahmanieh had been 
taken poffeffion of by the combined Britifn and Turkifh forces. On 
this occafion a royal falute was fired in the camp. 

A ftrong patrol, or reconnoitring party, of twelve hundred men, 
quitted the encampment on the 13th, to fcour the country in the. 
direclion of Cairo, and colled: intelligence.* 

An Englifh naval officer arrived at the fame time with difpatches 
from Lord Keith. 

* In fending forward this party, the Grand Vizier promifed handfome rewards to 
thofe who fhould bring in their prifoners unhurt. If, on the other hand, they fhould 
have been put to death, or even in any degree maltreated, no recompenfe would be 
allowed. 

Q Q 2 



300 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

We were expofed, on the 14th, to the very painful and diftrefiing 
efFe&s of the kampfin. To fuch a degree was the atmofphere heated, 
that the air which blew on us feemed to have hTued from an oven 
or a furnace. We were nearly fuffocated during this interval by the 
clouds of duft. In the morning the wind was weflerly, but fhifted 
during the gale, which was extremely violent, to the north. I had 
never before experienced fuch an oppreffion in breathing, nor did I 
ever know the thermometer to rife fo high. At ten in the morning, 
within a box perforated to give a free admiflion to the air, and placed 
within my tent, it fofe to 108; and within the above-mentioned 
marabout, inacceflible to the fun's rays, to 103. At one o'clock it 
was fo high as 1 12 within the tent. 

Colonel Montrefor arrived in the evening with difpatches from 
General Hutchinfon. The Britifii army was in pofTeffion of Rah- 
manieh, in abandoning which place the enemy had left a part of 
their fick behind, and had fled precipitately towards Cairo. Their 
gun-boats and fmall veifels had fallen into the hands of the Britifh 
and Turkifh forces. Our lofs was ftated to have been very trifling ; 
but that of the Turks was more confiderable. Colonel Thompfon, 
of the royal artillery, loft a leg in the action ; and this brave and very 
meritorious officer died a few weeks afterwards at Rofetta. 

In the evening I walked into Belbeis, which is fituated on an 
eminence : the greater part of the buildings, formed of a reddifh 
brick, were in ruins. To the fouth-weft of the town (lands a fortrefs 
built by the French, but which they in a great meafure deftroyed 
prcvioufly to their abandoning the place. It was not extraordinary 
that they mould fpike the guns, and leave the fortrefs in a very 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT, 301 

ruinous ftate } but they very mifchievoufly deftroyed alfo the prin- 
cipal of the mofques, of which there were formerly three at Belbeis. 
On the weft and north-weft fides of the town the fine fields of corn 
were highly gratifying to the view ; but to the fouth and ibuth-eaft 
the land was a barren defert. Among the fruits the inhabitants 
cultivate the lime, the juice of which was highly refrefhing to us 
during the intenfe heats which prevailed at this time. 

Early on the morning of the 15th intelligence was received in 
camp that the enemy's forces were approaching to attack the army 
of his Highnefs the Vizier. This intelligence being afterwards con- 
firmed, his Highnefs, w 7 ho in the courfe of the early part of the day 
had frequent confultations with Colonel Holloway and Major Hope, 
ordered Taher Pacha to fet out at the clofe of the evening with three 
thoufand cavalry, and three pieces of artillery, to proceed in queft of the 
enemy, and to attack them during the obfcurity of the night, mould 
a favourable opportunity prcfent itfelf. At every event he was to 
employ all poffible means to impede them on their march. About 
three leagues from Belbeis, Taher Pacha fell in with the enemy, 
who, on perceiving him, halted, as did alfo the Pacha on his part. 
In this pofition the adverfe armies continued during the whole of 
the night; when at length, at eight in the morning of the lOth, 
Taher Pacha, having been reinforced by about fifteen hundred addi- 
tional cavalry, attacked the enemy. He was fhortly after fupported 
by Mahomed Pacha, with about five thoufand men, and five pieces 
of artillery, and during the aclion large bodies of armed Arabs joined 
the Ottoman forces ; the Vizier in perfon following, and animating 
by his exertions the Turkim troops, on whom his prefence had a 



3 o2 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

very fenfible effect. The aclion was continued for feven hours with 
but little intermiffion ; at the expiration of which time the enemy, 
after having been driven from the different pofitions they had taken 
up, retreated, but not without being followed up and haralfed by 
the Turks, by whom they were purfued to El-Hanka, a diftance of 
feven miles from the fpot where the action commenced. The lofs 
on either fide was not deemed confiderable ; but that of the French 
could not be exactly afcertained, as they carried their wounded off 
the field. It was probably greater than that of the Turks, who had 
thirty men killed, and eighty wounded. On this occafion Colonel 
Holloway and Major Hope acfed with the Vizier, Captain Lacey 
with Mahomed Pacha, and Captain Leake with Taher Pacha. 

While in the field, his Highnefs the Vizier received, in the after- 
noon of the lOth, from Damietta, official information of the capture 
of Fort Lefbie, and its dependencies, by Ibrahim Pacha, to whom 
the above fort had been furrendered on the T4th. 

The Vizier had upwards of forty heads brought to him on the 
field of battle. He ordered the troops to halt towards the evening, 
leaving a fmall corps of obfervation to follow the enemy during the 
night. It was by no means his wifh that his troops mould advance 
too near to Cairo, after the fatigues of the action, left the enemy 
mould be reinforced by frefli troops from that city. They returned, 
therefore, to camp quietly and in good order, without betraying the 
tumultuous fpirit they had manifefted on other occafions. 

The number of the enemy, according to the ftatements made by 
the French themfelves, amounted to four thoufand fix hundred in- 
fantry, and nine hundred cavalry, with twenty-four pieces of ord- 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 303 

nance. The greater part of thefe troops had retreated from Rahma- - 
nieh, and had been reinforced by detachments from the garrifon of 
Cairo. 

Notwithftanding this great and recent fuccefs, which occurred at 
a time when the event of a defeat might have been attended by the 
moft diftreffing and calamitous confequences, the Turks Hill continued 
to difplay that total difregard to difcipline and good order, without 
which a happy and fuccefsful iftue cannot be expected from any mi- 
litary operations. This neglect had been frequently urged to them, 
and pointed out in the ftrongeft terms of reprobation. It cannot, 
indeed, be expected, while they continue to entertain the prejudices 
by which they are now governed, and while they pay fo little atten- 
tion to difcipline in the field and in the camp, but that they will be 
conftantly inferior to their enemies, although there are very many 
among them who are by no means deficient in perfonal bravery. 

In the field, however, the Ottoman army has, among other bene- 
ficial regulations, that of the eftablifhment of fackars, a corps felected 
from the Janiffaries, to attend and fupply the troops with water. On 
this fervice they were alfo conftantly employed on a march. They 
are mounted on horfes provided with bells, to the end that their ap- 
proach may be known to the troops ; and each horfe carries two 
leathern facks containing about forty gallons of water. In a hot 
climate like that of Egypt, the utility of fuch an eftablifhment is ob- 
vious ; and it was owing to the want of a fimilar regulation, that the 
French troops, according to the report of General llcgnier, fuffered 
fo feverely from thirft on the lOth of May. 



3o 4 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

Major Wilfon, of Hompefch's regiment, arrived in the camp 
on the 15th with difpatchcs from the Britifti army. He fet off in 
the evening, mounted on a hedgin, with difpatches from the Grand 
Vizier. 

On the l6th Colonel Holloway received information from Captain 
Chollet, purporting that he was arrived at El-Catania, in the Delta, 
with a fmall body of Britifh cavalry. 

Several of our people were at this time attacked with violent in- 
flammations of the eyes, occafioned by the effects of the kampfin, 
together with the duft, and the intenfe heat of the atmofphere. 

On the 1 7th violent gufts of wind, which prevailed throughout the 
whole of the day, raifed the duft to a prodigious height in the air. 
In the evening we had a violent ftorm of wind from the eaftward, 
accompanied by rain. A French deferter, by birth a German, was 
on this day brought into the camp, fo exceflively debilitated from 
difeafe and fatigue, that he died in the courfe of a few hours. 

We quitted our ground of encampment at Belbeis at feven in the 
morning of the 18th, and after an agreeable march of twelve miles 
arrived at Mefhtoule, a village diftant from El-Hanka about three or 
four miles. We there pitched our tents. The country through 
which we had paffed was a fine level, with a black foil on which 
abundant crops were produced. The wheat, which in Egypt is of 
the bearded kind, was perfectly ripe, and, as well as the barley, lay in 
great profufion on the ground. Flax, lucerne, and the muftard plant, 
were alfo cultivated. 

The villages, which were thickly fcattercd to the right and left, 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 3 o s 

were very populous ; and the inhabitants appeared to be much more 
robufl and healthy than thofe we had hitherto met, and were at the 
fame time much better clothed. 

There was only one inconvenience in our route, arifing from the 
broad and very deep fiffures in the earth, which in many places im- 
peded our progrefs, and were even dangerous to the horfes and cattle. 
We paired clofe to the fite of the action of the lOth ; and encamped 
within about twenty or twenty-five miles of Cairo. 

Colonel Montrefor left the camp on the morning of the igth at 
break of day, with difpatches for the Britifh commander in chief. We 
marched at feven o'clock, and arrived at the village of Ben-el-Hazer, 
fituated on the eaftern bank of the Damietta branch of the Nile, 
our encampment extending to the river fide. The water of the 
river, to which I walked after dinner, I found of an excellent quality. 
In the village, as well as in all thofe through which we had patted 
during our late marches, the inhabitants breed vaft flocks of fine 
pigeons. For this purpofe their boufes are built of mud bricks in a 
conical fhape, the lower part being occupied by the inmates, and the 
upper by the pigeons. 

The country about Ben-el-Hazer is open, without flirubs or brufh- 
wood. The only trees we met with were the date, the Pharaoh fig, 
a fmall cedar, and the larch-tree. The breed of buffaloes was very 
iine, as was alfo that of the cows : the latter were delicately propor- 
tioned, and of a pale red colour. 

The Vizier's movement to the above place from Mefhtoule 
was with a view to meet General Hutchinfon, the Britifh com- 

R R 



3 o6 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

mander in chief, as well as the Capitan Pacha, to the end that the 
ulterior arrangements might be^made. 

Intelligence was received on the 20th that a body of fix hundred 
of the enemy, with five hundred and fifty camels, had been captured 
by the Britifli army on the route leading from Alexandria to Rah- 
manieh. 

At Ben-el-Hazer there were feveral vefiels on the river of a pecu- 
liar conftruclion, of which I fhall have occafion to fpeak more parti- 
cularly hereafter. The Delta, from the diftant view I had of it, 
appeared to be a vaft plain yielding an abundance of corn and othes 
productions, and interfperfed with numerous villages built on emi- 
nences furrounded by date trees. On the banks of the Nile the Arab 
inhabitants cultivate water melons, gourds, tobacco, indigo, which in. 
the Arabic is called nileh, and fome few fruits, and other vegetables. 

The Vizier was at this time indifpofed with fever, and required my 
conftant attendance ; as did alfo Mahomed Pacha. 

Major Wilfon arrived in the camp with difpatches on the 21 ft; 
and fet out on the following morning early, with difpatehe3 for the 
Britifli commander in chief. In the courfe of the morning of the 
latter day, Colonel Stewart, of the 8Qth regiment, Captain Diggens,. 
of the llth light dragoons, and three other Britifli, officers, with a 
Tjarty of light cavalry, came into the camp to pay their compliments 
to his Highnefs the Vizier. They had quitted their divifion, which 
was Rationed in the Delta,, at the diftance of a few miles, and con- 
fided of an advanced body of Britifli troops* commanded by Colonel 
Stewart, who was to co-operate with the army of the Grand Vizier, 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 307 

Oeneral Hutchinfon, and the Capitan Pacha, were daily expected 
in the camp. 

Lieutenant Janverin, of the royal navy, was at this time fent off 
with difpatches for Suez. 

On the morning of the 23d, an officer belonging to the Britifli 
cavalry ftationed in the Delta came into the camp with letters. His 
arrival was followed by that of Major Wilfon. We experienced 
on this day another kampfin, the heated wind blowing with great 
violence from the fouth and Ibuth-eaft. 

Owing to the extreme fcarcity of wood, we were at this time 
under the neceffity of reforting for fuel to dried cow dung, which 
we purchafed of the Arab women, who form it with chopped flraw 
into cakes, and dry it on the fides of their dwellings. 

On the 24th General Hutchinfon, attended by Colonel An- 
ftruther, quarter- mailer-general, with leveral other Britifli officers, 
and his fuite, arrived at the encampment, having accompanied thi- 
ther the Capitan Pacha in his barge. On his arrival the Britifli 
commander in chief had an immediate audience with his Highnefs 
the Vizier, who alfo gave audiences to the other Britifli officers. Tents 
for the accommodation of the party were pitched clofe to the Vizier's 
own particular tent. 

I rode on the 25th on the banks of the Nile towards Cairo, and 
faw feveral plantations of indigo, of the dye obtained from which the 
inhabitants make a great confumption for their cotton drefles. 

Colonel Anftruther, and a part of the fuite of the Britifli com- 
mander in chief, quitted the camp on the 26th ; and on the 28th 
General Hutchinfon, with the remainder of his fuite, alfo quitted 

n r 2 



3 o8 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

its. Both the general and officers were, previoufly to their depar- 
ture, inverted with pelices, and received during their flay the molt 
confpicuous attentions. 

A detachment of Turkifh military arrived in the camp on the 20th, 
being part of a reinforcement of one thoufand men expected from 
Belbeis, &c. ; and a body of five hundred Turkifh cavalry quitted, to 
join the Britifh troops in the Delta under Colonel Stewart. 

Ophthalmy and diarrhoea prevailed at this time among the Turkifh 
troops. The latter of thefe difeafes appeared to originate from their; 
eating too freely of unripe fruits, fuch as peaches and apricots, and 
alfo of cucumbers. To this abufe was fuperadded that of greafy 
food, which the debility brought on by the warm climate had ren- 
dered them in a great meafure incapable of digefting. 

Lieutenant Janverin, of the royal navy, arrived on the 30th from 
Suez ; and a party of camels left the camp fo bring up a detachment 
of the 80th regiment, three hundred ftrong, under the command of 
Colonel Lloyd. This detachment was to acl: with the army of the 
Vizier. The camels were laden with four thoufand okes of rice fop 
Admiral Blanket's fquadron. 

We were reinforced on the above day by a corps of about three 
hundred Mamelukes from the Said, under one of the Ofman Beys* 
We learned at the fame time that Ofman Bey Tambourgis, the prin- 
cipal of thefe Beys, had, together with eight other Beys, fet out to- 
join the Britifh army. Their united force amounted to fifteen hun- 
dred cavalry, all collected in the Said, and having formerly acled under 
Mourad Bey, who was deccafed. 

Lieutenant Janverin quitted the camp on the 3? ft, and embarked 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. .309 

at Ben-el- Hazcr for Damietta, with difpatches for Admiral Lord 
Keith. 

On the morning of the ift of June we quitted our encampment 
at Ben-el-Hazer, and after a march of three hours arrived at Dagoua, 
fituated on the eaftern bank of the Nile. We encamped between 
the above village and the village of Tahley, clofe to the river fide. 
We were accompanied by a part only of our baggage, the remainder 
being brought up the river in germs, a kind of vefTels which navigate 
the Nile. 

A gun-boat, which had been taken from the enemy by the Turks, 
arrived at Dagoua on the 2d ; and on the 4th Colonel Stewart, Colo- 
nel Lord Blaney, of the 8Qth regiment, and Captain Adye, of the 
royal artillery, came to the camp to pay their relpecls to the Vizier, 
by whom they were inverted with pelices. 

Colonel Stewart, with the troops under his command, crorted the 
Nile on the 5 th ; on which day Captain Curry, of the royal navy, 
commanding the gun-boats, came to camp, and had an audience of 
the Vizier, who inverted him with a pelicc 

We marched on the morning of the 6th, and about one o'clock, 
after having pafTed feveral villages, arrived at Shoubrah Shaabi. This 
part of Egypt appeared to be well cultivated, and abounded in gardens, 
in which we favv a variety of fruit trees, fuch as the peach, apricot, 
pomegranate, fig, lemon, and orange trees. The cedars, acacias, and 
Pharaoh fig trees were planted in clufters, and gave a pleafing variety 
to the face of the country, at the fame time that they afforded an 
agreeable fhade. An abundance of corn was every where produced; 
and, in addition to the indigo, the carthamus was cultivated in the 



3io TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

fields. Large herds of oxen, cows, and buffaloes, were grazing in 
every direction. 

In our march of this day we obtained a fight, for the firft time, of 
the two great pyramids of Giza. The troops encamped clofe to 
the river ; and in the afternoon the Turkiih gun-boats, commanded 
by Captain Curry, arrived at Shoubrah Shaabi. Major Wilfon alfo 
arrived with difpatches. 

The troops commanded by Colonel Stewart arrived at Shoubrah 
Shaabi on the morning of the 7th, and took up their ftation within 
a mile of our encampment, whence Major Wilfon and Captain Lacey 
fet out on a reconnoitring party. 

I rode in the morning along the bank of the river, to the vicinity 
of Shellacan, or Charlacan, at the junction of the two branches of the 
Nile, and had thence a view of Cairo, as well as of the pyramids of Giza. 

On the banks of the Nile the Arabs cultivate the dourra, or 
Indian corn, which, at the date of this part of the narrative, grew 
very luxuriantly. There were alfo large plantations of water-melons, 
tobacco, indigo, &c. Shellacan is diftant from Shoubrah Shaabi 
about four miles and a half, and from Cairo about eleven. 

An Arab arrived at this time from Suez with the intelligence that 
the 80th regiment was on its way from that place, and would join 
the Ottoman forces in the courfe of two days. 

On the morning of the 8th his Highnefs the Vizier went in great 
Hate to vifit the Britifti troops commanded by Colonel Stewart. 
About four hundred fick from General Hutchinfon's army were 
landed from the river at Shoubrah Shaabi. The difeafes chiefly pre- 
vailing among them were dyfentery, ophthalmy, and fever. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 31 r 

We marched at fix in the morning of the Qth, and arrived at Shel- 
lacan at ten o'clock. We encamped on the banks of the Nile, a 
mile to the fouth of the village, the Britifh troops commanded by 
Colonel Stewart taking their ftation a little in the rear of the Vizier's 
encampment. On the oppofite fide of the river the Britifh army, 
and the troops commanded by the Capitan Pacha, were encamped. 
Accounts were this day received from Colonel Lloyd, who had 
reached El-Hanka from Suez. In crofting the defert, the troops 
under his command had mffered very feverely. 

I rode in the afternoon to Harrachneah, a village diftant three 
miles from Shellacan, and eight from Cairo. Near this village Taher 
Pacha had fixed his encampment. 

On the 10th, m the morning, the detachment of the 86th regi- 
ment, commanded by Colonel Lloyd, arrived in camp, and joined 
the Britifh troops under Colonel. Stewart. Gunner Fofter, belong- 
ing to the miffion, died fuddenly from an attack of fever. 

Captain Stevenfon, of the royal navy, who at that time com- 
manded the flotilla of gun-boats ftationed on the Nile, came into 
camp to pay his refpeels to the Vizier. 

I rode, on the morning of the J 1th, along the banks of the Nile, 
to within about five or fix miles of Cairo, and paffed through the 
villages of Harrachneah, Abblewed, Heliub, and Beifous. My com- 
panions and myfelf halted near a marabout, beneath the fhade of 
fome fine Pharaoh fig-trees, or fycamores, and had from thence a 
delightful view of Cairo, Boulac, and their environs. We could alfb 
diftinguifh the three principal pyramids of Saccara. To the eaftward 
of the marabout, diftant about half a mile, we faw a handfome ftone 



3 i2 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

bridge, paved with fine marble, and provided with fix arches. At 
this fpot Mr. Read, the draughtfman, made a fketch, which is given 
in Plate XVII. Cairo, Boulac, &c. appearing in the diftance. 

The carthamus, the flower of which is employed as a yellow dye, 
was cultivated in great abundance. From the bruifed feeds of this 
plant the inhabitants alfo exprefs an oil to burn in their lamps. 

In the afternoon of this day Generals Craddock and Doyle, and 
feveral other Britifh officers, came to the camp to pay their refpe&s 
to the Grand Vizier. 

Preparations were made, on the 1 3th, to throw a bridge of boats 
acrofs the Nile at Beifous, under the direction of Brigadier-general 
Lawfon, of the royal artillery; and on the 14tb, at four in the 
morning, the Britifh troops made a movement. 

On the morning of the 15th we quitted our ground of encamp- 
ment at Shellacan, and marched to Beifous, whence we had a fine 
view of Cairo, fituated at the diftance of about four or five miles from 
the ftation we had taken. During the day-time, when the foil be- 
comes heated by the rays of the fun, forming a haze of the atmo- 
fphere, to judge with accuracy of diftances in Egypt is extreme! v 
difficult. 

To protect the bridge of boats over the Nile, which was nearly 
completed, the Britifh army marched towards Cairo on the morning 
of the ]Oth, at which time Colonel Stewart proceeded with his de- 
tachment along the eaftern bank of the river, to the canal in front 
of Shubra. Tahcr Pacha, Mahomed Pacha, and feveral of the 
Mamelukes, advanced on the left of the above detachment, and 
proceeded to the vicinity of the flone bridge at Kantara. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 313 

On the 17th difcontents broke out among the Janiflaries, on ac- 
count of the Britifli troops under Colonel Stewart, and the corps of 
Turks commanded by Taher Pacha, being advanced in their front. 
A deferter belonging to the French cavalry came into the camp. He 
was followed by two others on the ] 8th, who were nearly naked, 
the little covering they had on them confuting of tattered garments 
which had belonged to Arabs. They had deferted fifteen days be- 
fore, and had been in the action of El-Hanka on the lSth of the 
•preceding month. According to their report, the number of French 
troops amounted, on that occaflon, to nearly fix thoufand men. 
They had fiiffered a great lofs ; but to what precife extent thefe 
deferters could not afcertain. They confirmed the general accounts 
of the wifli of the French (who were heartily tired of the warfare in 
Egypt) to furrender to the Britifli forces ; and exprefTed the extreme 
reluctance they would feel at being obliged to furrender feparately 
to the Turks. 

I rode on the morning of the 20th to Heliub, fituated at the dis- 
tance of two miles and a half to the north of the camp. The inha- 
bitants were bufied in preparing the indigo plant for ufe. To this 
end the plants were cut into fmall portions, and thrown into warm 
water, in which having lain fimmering for a fliort time, they were* 
together with the liquor, thrown into earthen jars. In this ftate the 
liquor very foon acquires a blue colour. 

On the morning of the 2] ft the Britifli army under the command 
of General Hutchinfon, together with the troops commanded by 
the Capitan Pacha, and the Mamelukes, marched, and took up a 
polition before Giza ; at the fame time that the Britifli troops under 



3 i4 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

Colonel Stewart marched with the Vizier's army, and encamped 
between Shubra and Cairo. The latter took up a pofition, with 
their right extending to the river, and their left towards the defert, 
a fmall canal being in the front. Taher Pacha, with a corps of dif- 
mounted Arnauts, ported himfelf at Jzaoui ; and feveral pickets were. 
advanced. By thefe movements Cairo and Giza were in a great 
degree inverted. At this time the Ottoman army, under the com- 
mand of his Highnefs the Vizier, amounted to about twelve thou- 
fand cavalry, feven thoufand infantry, and about one thoufand artil- 
lery, with a large battering train, and forty pieces of light artillery. 

The enemy having on the 23d fent out a flag of truce to the 
commanders in chief, requiring the prefence of a Britifli officer of 
rank, General Hope was appointed to that fervice, and an armiftice 
agreed on for forty-eight hours. 

Early in the morning of the 24th, a flag of truce was fent into 
Cairo by the Britilh commander in chief and the Grand Vizier. 
Major Birch and the Jebedgi Baflii were the bearers of this flag. 

General Beliard, on the 25th, fent into camp three Turks who 
had been found under the walls of Cairo, obferving, that it was 
owing to the high refpect he entertained for the Grand Vizier that 
he had delivered them up, inftead of treating them as fpies. They 
were ordered by the Vizier to be put to death immediately. 

The effects of climate and fatigue began now to manifeft them- 
felves among the Britifli troops, many of whom were attacked by 
fever, dyfentery, diarrhoea, and ophthalmy. 

During the armiftice the Grand Vizier went daily to a village 
fituated in the front of the encampment, to prevent irregularities 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 315 

among his troops, who had manifefled a defirc to advance too far, 
and had discovered fome diffatisfaction while the treaty was pending. 

On the 28th, in the evening, about two hundred Britifh troops, 
and one hundred JanhTaries, entered and took poffeffion of Fort 
Shoulkoufki, fo named after one of the aids-du-camp of Bonaparte, 
killed in Egypt* It was delivered up agreeably to the convention 
which had been agreed on ; and at the fame time the gate of the 
pyramids of Gaza was Surrendered to the troops ordered for that fer- 
vice by the commander in chief of the Britifh forces. 

Hoflages were exchanged on each fide for the due performance of 
the convention. 

On the afternoon of the 29th I rode to Heliopolis, or the city of 
the fun, fituated at the diflance of about three miles to the north- 
eafl of the camp. It is at prefent called Matta-reah, and is the On 
of the fcriptural writings. It is celebrated for a fountain of excel- 
lent water ; and here flands a fine granite column, nearly feventy 
feet in height, with numerous hieroglyphics upon it. Several other 
columns, one of which was afterwards carried to Rome, and another 
to Conflantinople, anciently flood on the fite of Heliopolis. A 
temple dedicated to the fun is faid alfo formerly to have flood here. 

On the 2d of July three boats, with two hundred French fick, 
failed down the river to be embarked for France. An hundred and 
fifty boats were fent to Boulac and to Roudah, to be in readinefs to 
receive the baggage of the French troops who had capitulated. The 
Nile was at this time rifmg daily. In the fequel I mail enter into a 
particular detail of its rife and fubfequent fall during my flay in Egypt. 

Generals Moore and Hope came to the camp on the 3d to pay 

s s 2 



3 i6 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

their refpects to the Vizier. It being the firft vifit of the latter of 
thefe general officers fmce the convention had been figned, he was 
inverted with a pelice by command of his Highncfs the Vizier. 

Several boats filled with fick French went down the Nile to Ro- 
fetta on the 5th. 

A violent vomiting, unaccompanied by any other complaint, af- 
fected at this time a confiderable number of perfons in camp. I was 
led to account for it by the relaxation and debility brought on by 
the extreme heat of the weather, which had had the effect of weak- 
ening the organs of digeftion. As, however, it came on in molt 
cafes very fuddenly, I examined both the copper utenfils employed 
in cooking, and the water of the Nile, which at the time of the rifrng 
of that river is. very thick and muddy, but could impute this com- 
plaint to neither of thefe caufes. 

I was informed that there were feveral cafes of malignant fever 
among the troops, who were alfo attacked very generally by dyfen- 
tery, diarrhoea, and ophthalmy. In the latter of thefe complaints 
the eyes became red and painful, and the lids fo fwollen almoft im- 
mediately after the attack, that in the courfe of a few hours the eyes 
were entirely clofed. In addition to thefe difeafes, the prickly heat 
and inflammatory eruptions of the fkin were very prevalent, and 
appeared to have been brought on by great irritation on the furface 
of the body, which, in confequence of the exceffive heat of the 
weather, was covered by a copious tranfudation from the pores. It 
is not difficult to conjecture that this difeafed ftate of the ikin might 
have been occafioned by a check given, for however Abort a period, 
to the palfage of the pcrfpirable matter. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT, 51 ; 

The corpfe of General Kleber was on the 6th raifed by the French 
from the tomb in which it had been depofked at Fort Ibrahim Bey,, 
under a general difcharge of artillery from the forts, citadel, &c. This 
Hep was preparatory to its being conveyed to France. 

The Vizier paid a vifit to the Capitan Pacha, and alio to General 
Hutchinfon. 

About this time our exiftence was- rendered very uncomfortable 
by the immenfe clouds of duft which were thrown up daily, about 
one or two o'clock in the afternoon, by the frefh breezes which ge- 
nerally blew from the north- weft. To the great heat of the at- 
mofphere, as well as to the irritation produced by the duft on the 
organ of vifion, the prevalence of ophthalmy in Egypt at this feafon 
may certainly be afcribed. 

The French Generals Morand and Dongelot, who had negociated 
the convention on the part of General Beliard, were on the 8th in- 
verted with pelices by command of his Highnefs the Vizier. 

On the Qth General Hutchinfon, and the Capitan Pacha had each 
of them a conference with the Vizier ; and in the evening Colonel 
Stewart, with the 89th regiment, and a detachment of the 86th,. 
marched and took poffeffion of the citadel of Cairo. 

The Vizier on the 10th marched with his whole army, and en- 
camped near to the works of Cairo, and clofe in with Boulac. He 
afterwards entered the town, attended by hisfuite, and having vifited 
the principal ftreets, bazars, and public places, returned to camp. 

Early in the morning of the 1 1th the miflion marched into Cairo, 
and was immediately put in polTeffion of the houfe, the property of 
KalTan Bey, one of the Mamelukes, which had been recently occu- 



3 i8 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

pied by the French Inftitute. The forts Inftitute and Ibrahim Bey, 
on this fide of the Nile, together with the ifland of Rouda and Giza 
on the oppofite bank, were {till in the poffeffion of the French. 

In paffing through the ftreets I obferved that the principal of the 
bazars were fhut, there being but few commodities for fale. The 
utmoft tranquillity prevailed ; and many of the inhabitants, who had 
the fame wretched appearance with thofe of the other towns and 
villages of Egypt, faluted us on our way. 

I rode after dinner to the citadel, fituated on an eminence beneath 
Mount Mokatam, by which it is commanded. The buildings within- 
fide were for the greater part in ruins, little attention having latterly 
been paid except to thofe which were calculated for defence, and 
w r hich, on a clofe infpection, appeared to be but ill adapted to fuch a 
purpofe. The commanding pofition of the citadel, which occupies 
a great extent of ground, is, notwithftanding, fuch as to enable thofe 
within to annoy the enemy on his approach. From the quarters of 
Colonel Stewart I had a very complete and extenfive view of Old 
Cairo, Grand Cairo, Boulac, Giza, the ifland of Rouda, the Pyra- 
mids, the Nile, &c. The grand aqueduct rifing from the Nile, and 
afcending to the cattle with upwards of two hundred arches, was 
diftinctly in fight. 

On the 14th, the 30th and 86th regiments took poffeffion of the 
forts on the fide of the Nile on which we were encamped. A party 
of Mamelukes and Arnauts crofTed the river, to accompany the 
French troops, who were to leave Rouda on the following morning. 
Thofe who had capitulated amounted to about twelve thoufand ; and 
were to be accompanied to France by the Coptic General Yacoub, 
and a confiderable number of male and female Arabs. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 3 i 9 . 

I rode on the morning of the 15th to the refervoir of the aqueduct 
on the bank of the Nile, in the vicinity of which labourers were, 
employed in banking up the earth to prevent the influx of the Nile 
during its afcent, until a particular period when the mound which 
has been thus thrown up is broken down with great ceremony, and 
the waters allowed to pafs through Grand Cairo by the canal which 
is by Savary denominated the Prince of the Faithful. 

In pafnng through the gateway which leads to Old Cairo beneath 
the aqueduct, I met with feveral columns of red fpotted granite, fome 
of which were in a tolerably perfect ftate, and were more than .forty, 
feet in length, with a diameter of five feet.. 

I vifited in the evening a bath fituatednear the houfe in w T hich we ' 
were lodged. It differed in this refpect from the baths of Conilanti- 
nople, that it was neceffary to defcend into a fquare ciftern of warm 
water, fupported to a certain height by the conftant introduction of 
that fluid. The bath was very neat, and paved with marbles of dif- 
ferent colours, which were fo difpofed as to refemble a teffelated 
pavement. Indeed, the floors of the greater part of the principal 
houfes at Cairo are paved in this manner, fo as to produce a cool and 
pleafing effect. 

Cairo and its dependencies were on the above day evacuated by the 
French, agreeably to the convention. They were accompanied on 
their march by the Britifh troops and a part of the Turkifh army. 
Britifh garrifons were at the fame time thrown into Giza and Fort 
Ibrahim Bey. The baggage belonging to the French was fent down 
the river in an immenfe number of germs. 

Gn the morning of the 1 6th I rode to the Mekias or Nilometer; it 



3 2o TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

derives its name from the ufe to which it has been dedicated, Me- 
kias fignifying a meafure. It is fituated on the fouthern extremity 
of the ifland of Rouda, which, when compared with the country we 
had recently palfed through, had the appearance of a nicely cultivated 
garden. Within this building there is a lofty flone column, pro- 
vided with a capital of the Corinthian order. It rifes from a fquare 
deep bafm, its inferior extremity having a communication with the 
Nile, the waters of which, in afcending, have a free inlet. Upon 
the column are marked the different degrees of the elevation of the 
waters ; and thefe degrees are noted down in proportion as the river 
rifes or falls. In the former of thefe cafes, when it has afcended to 
the height of fourteen cubits, the mound which had been thrown up 
at the mouth of the canal, denominated the canal of the Prince of 
the Faithful, is broken down, to the end that the refreming and fer- 
tilizing waters may fpread themfelves through the city, and over the 
whole of the adjacent level country to the northward of Grand 
Cairo, &c. 

On the above day his Highnefs the Orand Vizier made his public 
entry into Cairo, under a general difcharge of artillery, and amidft 
the acclamations of the inhabitants, who were alfembled in immenfe 
numbers on this great and folemn occafion. The whole of the cere- 
mony was conducted without the fmallefl confufion. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

EXCURSION TO THE PYRAMIDS OF GIZA THE THREE GREAT PYRAMIDS- 
ENTRANCE INTO THE GREAT PYRAMID DIMENSIONS OF THE GREAT 

PYRAMID— OF THE CHAMBERS WITHINSIDE PASSAGES INTO THE PYRA- 
MID GALLERY THE GREAT SPHYNX VESTIGES OF ANTIQUE BUILD- 
INGS ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF THE EXTERIOR DISTANT VIEW OF 

THE PYRAMIDS OF SACCARA— PRESENT FROM THE SULTAN TO THE VI- 
ZIER- — CEREMONY ON THIS OCCASION FESTIVAL ON THE BIRTH-DAY 

OF THE MOTHER OF MAHOMED MARRIAGE PROCESSION AT CAIRO — ■ 

DETAILS RELATIVE TO THE PLAGUE— -INDISPOSITION OF THE GRAND 

VIZIER DEATH OF MR. WHITEMAN UNHEALTHINESS OF THE CLIMATE 

OF EGYPT EXCESSIVE HEAT - — THE DATE TREE AND ITS FRUIT OPENING 

OF THE CANAL INUNDATION OF THE NILE INTERESTING CONVERSA- 
TION WITH AN ABYSSINIAN PRIEST CONFIRMATION OF BRUCE's AU- 
THENTICITY VOYAGE IN COMPANY WITH MR. CLARKE AND OTHERS 

TO VIEW THE PYRAMIDS OF SACCARA, AND THE PLAIN OF MUMMIES — ■ 

SHEICK ATM AN ARAB MARRIAGE PYRAMIDS OF SACCARA— PLAIN OF 

THE MUMMIES SUPPOSED SITE OF MEMPHIS DESCENT INTO THE CA- 
TACOMBS — HORRID APPEARANCE FIT OR CATACOMB OF BIRDS — 

EGYPTIAN IDOLS, 

A BOUT this period I made an excurnon, with a party, to the 
pyramids of Giza, of which the three principal are in a tole- 
rable ftate of preservation. Several of a fmaller fize are fituated very 
near to each other, in a direction from eaft to well;, behind the for- 
mer. One of the latter, however, built of a foft calcareous Hone, 
was, when I faw them, rapidly falling to decay. 

Of the three great pyramids one is of an extraordinary bulk ; the 

T T 



322 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

fecond is but little inferior to it in fize ; and the third comparatively 
fmall, but the proportions of it would be confidered as very great, if 
it was placed in an ifolated ftate from the others. This fmaller of 
the three principal pyramids appears to have been finimed with infi- 
nite pains and labour, the earth which furrounds it being covered on 
all fides with immenfe blocks of beautiful red granite and porphyry, 
with which it is highly probable it was originally coated. On fe- 
veral of the blocks there are deep furrows, from which it would feem 
that they had been anciently connecled together by metallic hoops 
or faftenings, which having been corroded by time, by the occafional 
moiflure of the atmofphere, and by other caufes, the blocks had been 
fet at liberty, and had fucceffively fallen to the ground. 

The whole of thefe flupendous monuments of antiquity, which, if 
they cannot boaft of any particular elegance of flruclure, are notwith- 
flanding very extraordinary efforts of human enterprife and labour, 
are built of a calcareous fubftance, fome parts of which are hard, and 
others of a fofter texture. On the larger of the pyramids I engraved 
my name near to the entrance without any difficulty ; and in fo 
doing followed the example of thoufands of perfons who had thus 
commemorated their vifit to this celebrated fpot. In entering within 
I afcended but a fmall diftance, contenting myfelf with barely pene- 
trating into the narrow paffage. My companions were, however, 
in general, more adventurous, and fupplied me with a variety of in- 
terefting facls and obfervations. 

The pyramids of Giza are fituated about ten miles to the fouth- 
weftof Cairo, on an elevated and rocky ground, the furfaceof which 
is covered with white fands, forming the ridge of the Lybian 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 323 

mountains by which the inundation of the Nile is bounded to the 
weftward. Their planes are directed towards the four quarters of 
the globe. The external dimenfions of the great pyramid have been 
the fubjecl of much difpute : neither of its fides being level with the 
others, it was difficult to find the true horizontal bafe ; but the 
length of the fuppofed bafe has been varioufly eftimated at from fix 
to eight hundred Englifh feet. According to the meafurement lately 
taken by the French, however, the height of the great pyramid is fi-x 
hundred feet, and its bafe feven hundred. Above the great chamber 
withinfide, in which the farcophagus or coffer is depofited, there is a 
fmaller chamber about eighteen feet in length and in width. The 
firffc pafTage by which the vifitor defcends into the pyramid is more 
than an hundred feet in length. That which leads to the great 
chamber is nearly of the fame extent ; and the main gallery is in 
length an hundred and fifty feet. I have been favoured by a Britifh 
officer of engineers with the following meafurement, taken with the 
utmoft precifion, both of the great chamber and of the farcophagus* 
It is as follows : 





Feet. 


Indies, 


Length of the chamber - 


34 


4 


Breadth of the fame 




4- 


Length of the farcophagus 





6 


Width of its interior 


2 


n 


Depth of the fame 


2 


8 


Height withoutfide 


3 


5| 


Thicknefs of the ffcone 








T T 2 



2,24 • TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

The great pyramid does not appear, any more than the others* to>- 
havc been finifhed according to the original defign. The lower parts 
or foundations, interiorly, feem to have been formed of the incrufta- 
tions of the rocky furface, which, in paffing through the narrow paf» 
fages, is perceptible in feveral places. 

At the time of our vifit the heat was extremely oppreffi ve. I col- 
lected feveral fragments of the calcareous flone employed in the con- 
duction of the pyramids, together with feveral detached pieces of 
granite. At the diftance of about two hundred yards to the ealt of 
the great pyramid is the Sphynx, a fculptured head of an enormous 
fize hewn out of the folid rock, though it feems by the veins in the 
ftones to be compofed of feveral flones laid upon another, and fup- 
ported by feveral large blocks of flone which form the lower part of 
the bull:, and which have been fomewhat decayed by time. The fea- 
tures of this ftupendous figure (about twenty-five feet in height, and 
fifteen from the ear to the chin) are tolerably preferved, with the ex- 
ception of the nofe, which has been wantonly mutilated. It was for- 
merly conjectured that the head of the Sphynx was connected with a 
body of proportionate dimenfions; but the French, by digging away 
the fand round its foundations, have demonftrated the erroneoufnefs 
of this opinion. The features of this enormous buft are feminine, 
and in fome degree referable the Ethiopian or Nubian race. 

In the vicinity of the pyramids we met with the veftiges of feveral 
antique buildings, the ftones employed in the conduction of which 
were of an enormous fize. In one of thefe ruins we found a capa- 
cious and deep well, which was entirely dry. It was with fome 
difficulty that we traced the fite of the buildings, in confequence of 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 325 

the drifting of the fands, and the fragments of the pyramids, which 
lay in great heaps on the furface of the ground. The Hones which 
had been precipitated from the great pyramid had formed, together 
with the drifted fands, a large hillock, which it was neceffary to af- 
cend to reach the entrance into the interior. 

Several of our party afcended to the fummit from the eaftem 
angle, but not without lubjedling themfelves to great labour, each 
of the Heps (which amount in all to about two hundred), from one 
ilone to another, meafuring from two feet and a half to three feet, 
fo as to render the defcent afterwards equally painful and hazardous. 
In entering the chamber withinfide, it was necelTary to be provided 
with candles or torches to light the paffages. 

At the diftance of about two miles to the north of the pyramids, 
We could diflinguifh the remains of two {lone bridges, which we 
had not time to infpect on our return. From thefe pyramids we 
had a view of feven others, at and in the neighbourhood of Saccara, 
diflant about twelve or fourteen miles from thofe of Giza. 

My narrative was broken off at the piiblic entry of the Grand Vizier 
into Cairo, from which time nothing particular occurred until the 21 ft 
( July), when his Highnefs received from the Sultan a prefent of a 
beautiful handjar,or dagger, {tudded with diamonds, of great brilliancy, 
and eftimated at an hundred and fifty thoufand piaftres, upwards of 
ten thoufand pounds Englifh. The prefent was accompanied by 
the Grand Seignor's hat-fcheriff", or letter, with the imperial feal and 
fignature of the Sultan, on which occafion (as on all fimilar ones) 
the following ceremony was obferved : — The divan being formed of 
the following perfonages, namely, the Grand Vizier, minifters of 



326 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

Hate, principal Pachas, and Janiffary Aga, the Reis Effendi brought 
in the Sultan's letter. The chiaoufes, who were drawn up in a line, 
now exclaimed aloud — " May the Almighty prcferve the Grand 
" Seignor and the Grand Vizier." At thefe words all who were 
prefent rofe up, and the Vizier advanced to the middle of the divan, 
where he received the hat-fcherifF from the Reis Effendi, with the 
cuftomary falutation of killing it, and putting it to his head. He 
then returned it to the Reis Effendi, who read aloud the contents, 
the chiaoufes repeating, during this part of the ceremony, their for- 
mer ejaculations. 

It has been feen that on this occafion the chiaoufes, or meffengers, 
bore a very confpicuous part in the ceremony. In an early part of 
this work I entered into a particular detail of their functions and 
offices ; and mail here attempt a concife defcription of their chief, 
the Chiaous Baflii, who holds in the Turkifh empire an appoint- 
ment of fuch great dignity, and of fo considerable emolument, that 
after the entry of the Ottoman army into Cairo, the Sultan, as a 
peculiar mark of his favour and approbation, appointed to this office 
the Reis Effendi. Among his more immediate duties, he accom- 
panies the foreign ambaffadors and minifters who are introduced to 
the prefence of the Sultan ; expedites the hat-fcheriff, or royal let- 
ter ; and introduces to the divan, or council of ftate, at Constanti- 
nople, all thofe who have any bufinefs to tranfacl with the minifters. 
He likcwifc hears and redreffes grievances, and takes cognizance of 
all petty offences, thus affuming the office of judge. Plate XVIII. 
conveys a correct idea of the coftumc of this officer. 

Ruffell, one of the civil artificers belonging to the miffion, in re- 



HihlMed March i-T^osfy/^MiJ>s,6\ l P<mlrrMm7ilard . 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 327 

pairing the bridge of boats thrown acrofs the Nile, and constructed 
by the French to preferve a communication with Giza, fell into the 
river on the 23d, and was unfortunately drowned. The extreme 
rapidity of the current prevented all poffibility of the body being 
found. 

I made an excurfion with a party to Giza, on the above day, and 
examined the works and fortifications, which appeared to be very 
imperfect, and poffeffing but little Strength. The late Mourad Bey 
had eftablifhed at his houfe in that place a foundery for cannon, 
which the French, during their ftay there, had confiderably im- 
proved,. 

In the evening the Arabs paraded the itreets of Cairo, with lights, 
chaunting Arab fentences, and carrying on their heads figures dreffed 
for the occafion. I found on enquiry, that it was a fete in comme- 
moration of the birth of the mother of Mahomed. The Arab fheicks 
are cuftomarily dreffed in a loofe woollen robe, or cloak of a deep 
blue or purple colour, with a large blue and white plaid handker- 
chief, thrown negligently acrofs one of the moulders, and hanging 
loofely down behind. They are in general armed with a fabre, and 
a long fpear, and are mounted on mares which appear to be very 
fleet. 

On the 26th the Britifli commander in chief, General Hutchin- 
fon, left Cairo on his way to Rofetta.* 



* As the author is not in poffeffion of the date when this commander was firft ho- 
noured with his prefent title, he hopes the reader will excufe any inaccuracy there 
may be in diftinguilhing him, as well as other illuftrious perfons, by the titles by which 
they are at prefent beft known. 



3 23 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

I was prcfent, on this day, at a grand procerTion or cavalcade of 
the women of Cairo, who were mounted on affes, on which they 
rode aftridg, being feated on faddles, or rather on, pads, of an uncom- 
mon height and breadth, covered with fmall Turkey carpets. This 
proceffion was occafioned by the approaching nuptials of two of the 
females belonging to the party, each of whom was a fine girl of 
about fourteen years of age, and was diftinguimed from the reft of 
the company by a rich fhawl. I was told that, previoufly to the 
celebration of the marriage rite, it was the conftant cuftom of the 
females of Cairo to parade the town in this manner. 

In paying a vifit, on the 2Qth, to an Arab merchant of Cairo, I 
met with a Mameluke, who entered into fome particular details re- 
lative to the laft attack of plague in that place, which he defcribed 
as having been more fevere than any that had been experienced for 
many years before. He could not afcertain the lofs which the popu- 
lation had fuftained ; but told me, that in a particular diftricT:, in 
which there were two hundred and feventy Greeks, feventy of them 
had fallen victims to this difeafe. It frequently happened that the 
attack was, in the fpace of twelve or twenty-four hours, fucceeded 
by the death of the infected perfon. This Mameluke had himfelf 
been afHicted with the difeafe, which had terminated the exiftence 
of fifteen of his family. In feveral of the towns and villages of the 
Said, the mortality was fo great, that the cattle, horfes, and other 
animals, were left to wander in the ftreets and in the fields in fearch 
of their fubfiftence, without having any one to take charge of them. 
He faid the difeafe was obferved to travel from town to town ; hav- 
ing for inftance, on the latter occafion, made its firft appearance at 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 329 

Damafcus, and vifited progreflively the intermediate towns and vil- 
lages, fcarcely one of w hich efcaped its deftruclive ravages, until it 
came to Cairo. In other cafes it fet out from the latter place, and 
made its progreffive advances into Syria. 

The Vizier had been for fome time ferioufly indifpofed, and 
claimed much of my attention. I found him pretty well recovered 
on the evening of the 30th, when I fpent nearly two hours with 
him, and vifited his garden, his fuperb ftud of horfes, &c. I took 
merbet and coffee with his Highnefs, in a room paved with marble, 
having a fountain in the middle, and being atherwife very hand- 
fomely ornamented. 

On the evening of the 3lft Mr. White-man, affiftant commiffary, 
died from the effects of exceffive fatigue, and from an expofure to 
the intenfe heat of the fun's rays, during a journey to Saccara, which 
he had undertaken on the preceding day. At this juncture the cli- 
mate of Egypt appeared to act on the temperament of the human 
body, by inducing fo great an irritability as to render it extremely 
fufceptible to morbid action. . The fudden generation of difeafe, and 
the celerity with which it ran through its fucceffive flages, may be 
thus explained. 

On the afternoon of the ill of Auguft the corpfe of Mr. Whiteman 
was interred in the Chriftian burial ground in the vicinity of the 
aqueduct. 

The great heats which prevailed at this time were productive of 
prickly heat, painful puflular eruptions of the fkin, boils, and other 
fimilar complaints. The bites of the knats, mofquitoes, and other 

u u 



330 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

infects, became inflamed, and produced very troublefbme fuppu- 
rations. 

On the 6th his Highnefs the Vizier, who was now perfectly reco- 
vered from his late illnefs, inverted me with an ermine pelice, as a 
mark of attention for the fervices I had rendered him. Colonel 
Beresford arrived at Giza with a detachment of the Indian army. 
A difpatch was at the fame time fent off from Cairo to Suez, from 
which place a meffenger arrived in the courfe of the afternoon. 

The heat was now become fo infupportable, that it was necefTary 
to keep as much as poffible within doors, efpecially as we were with- 
out the accommodation of fhady walks, which we enjoyed in Turkey 
and in Syria. The only trees of any confiderable growth about Cairo 
are the fycamore and the date, the wood of the former of which, 
being celebrated for the extreme clofenefs of its texture, as well as 
for its great hardnefs and incorruptible quality, was anciently em- 
ployed for the coffins of the mummies. From the latter the inha- 
bitants of Cairo derive many advantages, by converting atmoft every 
part of it to fome ufeful purpofe, in the fabrication of ropes, fences,, 
brooms, fans, mats for the table, hats, &c. The rtems of the leaves 
are wrought into bedfteads, well adapted to the climate, and fold at 
a very moderate price. 

General Barid and his ftaff arrived at Cairo on the 7th, and hav- 
ing paid a vifit to his Highnefs the Vizier, were inverted with pe~ 
lices, and welcomed by every flattering mark of attention. 

At this time the peafants were bulled in collecting the dates. This 
fruit, when firft gathered, is hard, and of a reddifh colour y but when 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 331 

kept for a little time, ripens, and becomes foft, fo as to be fit for ufe. 
The Arabs eat it, however, in its crude and unripe ftate, at which 
time it muft, according to my opinion, be very difficult to digeft. 

The Indian army encamped on the 8th on the ifland of Roudah. 

At five in the morning of the gth, being the time for the opening 
of the canal, I rode to its mouth, iituated near the aqueduct, and 
found there a vaft crowd of people aflfembled to witnefs the cere- 
mony. Mahomed Pacha, and feveral other diftinguiflied Turks, 
were on the ground (feveral tents having been pitched for the occa- 
fion), with their bands of mufic playing ; and the germs, which 
were very numerous, had their colours and dreamers flying. In the 
mean time the populace were amufed by difcharges of artillery, by 
the exhibition of fire-works, and of fkyrockets thrown into the air. 
The mound or dam having been interfered, the water rulhed into 
the canal, and the boats, profiting by the occafion, rowed through 
Cairo, where the day was fpent in amufements and feftivities of every 
defcription. While the water was flowing into the canal, Mahomed 
Pacha threw into it, from time to time, pieces of money, which tfle 
Arabs, who dived w T ith great addrefs in fearch of them, were very 
eager to pofTefs. 

I Ihould obferve here, that I had been by no means indifferent to 
the progreflive augmentation of the waters of the Nile, the refult 
of my obfervations on which, and on the fubfequent fall, will be 
given in the proper place. 

On the 10th we had a kampfin wind, which blew upimmenfe 
clouds of dull, forming lofty pillars in the air, and the particles of 
which, conjoined with the intenfe heat of the atmofphere, opprelTed 

*7 U 2 



332 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

us beyond meafure. On the following day the garden in front of the 
houfe in which we refided was completely inundated. 

I dined on the 1 6th at Giza, in company with feveral Britifh officers, 
among whom were Colonel Stewart and Lord Blaney. I was told 
by the latter, that three privates of the 8Qth regiment, quartered at 
Rofetta, had been cured of the plague ; but I could not collect any 
particulars relative to the mode of treatment which had been pur- 
sued. 

On the 18th Colonel Lloyd, with the 80th regiment, and a clc* 
tachment of fepoys, amounting in the whole to between fix and 
feven hundred men, marched from Giza to reinforce the garrifon of 
Fort Lefbie, and its dependencies. 

Colonel Stewart, commanding the 8Qth regiment, was on this 
day invefted with a pelice by his Highnefs the Vizier, of whom he 
took leave previcufly to his joining the Britifli army llationcd near 
Alexandria. 

The temperature of the weather was at this time become very 
agreeable, and had a falutary effect on the health of the troops, 
among whom the cafes of ophthalmy had nearly difappeared. The 
Englifh fick at Fort Ibrahim were ftill, however, haraffed by frelli 
attacks of dyfentery, and malignant fever. 

On the 25th I had a particular converfation with an Abyffin'ian 
prieft, recently arrived from his own country, who was about to 
leave Cairo for Jerufalem, from religious motives, and whofe details 
relative to his native territory were extremely interfiling. He allured, 
me that the indigenous inhabitants ftill perfevered in their cuftorn of 
eating raw flefli, a luxury in which, however, the priefts were not 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 333 

allowed to participate, but were, in conformity to their religious 
tenets, obliged to cook the meats neceffary to their fubfiftence. He 
calculated that his return to Abyffinia would occupy a fpace of three 
months. In the courfe of our converfation it appeared that he was 
familiarly acquainted with many of the plants and animals, of which 
the celebrated Bruce has in his Travels given engravings and written 
defcriptions. Mr. Bruce's book being at hand, the engravings, &c. 
were (hewn to him, and he gave to the animals and other productions 
the names which Bruce had annexed to them. I was thus enabled to 
fatisfy myfelf of the accuracy of a part of what has been fo ftrongly 
queflioned in the accounts which the above traveller has publiflied. 

General Beard, and feveral of his officers, took leave of the Vizier 
on the 26th, previoufly to their departure for Rofetta with the Indian 
army. They were invefted with pelices,. and received the mod dif- 
tinguifhed marks of attention; 

On the fucceeding day a part of the above army, together with 
the brigade commanded by Colonel Stewart, embarked on board of 
germs, and failed for the above deftination. They were followed on 
the 28th by the General and the remainder of the forces under his 
command. The troops ftationed at Giza, were, in confequence of 
this movement, commanded by Colonel Ramfay. 

On the evening of the 27th I fet out, in company with Meffrs. 
Clarke and Cripps, two gentlemen of SufTex, who were on their tra- 
vels, and a German gentleman of the name of Hammer, to vifit the 
pyramids of Saccara; and the plain of mummies, in Upper Egypt. 
We proceeded to the bridge near our dwelling, on the canal of the 
Prince of the Faithful, and entered a germ which had been prepared 



334 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

for us. After our fe?men had rowed on the canal for the fpace of 
half an hour, we entered the Nile, where the mafts and fails were 
hoifted, and a fine fmart breeze having fprung up from the north- 
ward, we profecuted our voyage very fuccefsfully. The large fail 
having been fpread, Cairo was very foon at a confiderable diftance 
behind us ; and after a very agreeable voyage of three hours, we came 
to a village called Sheick Atman, fituated on the weftern bank of 
the Nile, and diftant from Cairo from twelve to fourteen miles. We 
landed there, and found a party of the natives afTembled in the midft 
of a beautiful grove of date-trees, to celebrate the marriage of two 
young perfons belonging to the village. An Arab climbed with 
great agility to the lofty fummit. of one of thefe trees, to procure us 
a fupply of the ripe fruit. The moon, in its full fplendour, gave a 
luftre to the beautifully romantic fcene we had come fo opportunely 
to witnefs ; and we noticed that the company had pitched two tents, 
from which the coffee and other refrefhments were ferved. Several 
of the dancing girls, whofe attendance is conftantly required on thefe 
•occafions, exhibited their feats and agility to the found of the double 
reed, and of a kind of drum open at one of the extremities, and 
fhaped like a bell. 

The dance being concluded, and the night fetting in, the com- 
pany retired to reft, many of the men, not within the dwellings, but 
without doors, according to the ufual practice of the Arabs in the 
fummer feafon. In this way they lie fcattered over the plains, like 
flocks of fheep, with the clothes they have taken off fpread beneath 
them, and covered from head to foot by the large handkerchief which 
they wear in the day-time acrofe the moulders. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 335 

Our attendants kindled a fire for us, and procured us tea and other 
refrefhments, after having partaken of which we retired to reft in the 
germ. We were, however, fo much attracted by the beauty and 
novelty of the fcene, that it was near one in the morning before we 
could prevail on ourfelves to feek repofe. We rofe at the early dawn- 
to profecute our voyage ; and foon after faw the fun rife majeftically,. 
and gild the lofty fummit of Mount Mokatam. Having breakfafted, 
the fails were fpread, and we quitted Sheick Atman. In confe- 
quence of the late inundation the river had taken feveral windings 
by which our diftance was confiderably prolonged. The morning, 
however, being cloudy,. fo as to flielter us from the intenfe rays of the 
fun, and a cool and refrefhing breeze having fet in from the north- 
ward, our voyage amidft the numerous little iflands which the river 
had formed was highly agreeable. On the banks the inhabitants 
were engaged in watering the more elevated grounds which could, 
not receive the benefit of the inundation. For this purpofe they 
employed leathern buckets, one of which was faftened to the extre- 
mity of a long pole, having at its other extremity a heavy ftone to 
counterpoife the weight of the bucket, and forming in this way a 
kind of lever. The water was thus drawn up from the Nile,, and 
thrown into troughs, from which furrows were carried to convey it 
to every part of the high grounds. On thefe grounds the dourra or 
Indian corn and indigo plant had a very healthy and promifing ap- 
pearance. 

Between the two banks of the Nile there was a fmgular contraft. 
The eaftern more exhibited little more than a defert, the cultivation 
being confined to a very narrow flip of land, near the villages ; and a 



336 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

chain of lofty and fterile mountains which terminated at Mount 
Mokatam near Cairo ; while the weftern bank difplayed a confi- 
derable number of extenfive groves of date-trees, interfperfed with 
grounds in a highly cultivated ftate. The rich and beautiful appear- 
ance of the date-trees was at this time heightened by the fine golden 
colour of the ripening fruit. This was not, however, the ftate in 
which it was preferred by the Arabs in general : that they eat it in 
its unripe and crude ftate, when it is very unwholefome and indi- 
geftible, is a fact I have already noticed ; and, in reality, their choice 
with refpect to fruits and vegetables of every defcription, which they 
feem to prefer before they have attained a due maturity, is highly 
depraved. Several of the date-trees were of the dwarf kind, and 
were denominated by the Arabs Belah Mahat, in contradiftin&ion 
to thofe of a larger growth, but yet of the dwarf kind, which are 
called Belah Seeway. 

We entered a fmall canal, and proceeded to the villages of Men- 
fnee and Dafhou, diftant from Grand Cairo about twenty-four miles, 
and fituated at the foot of the mountain on the fummit of which we 
obferved thofe of the pyramids in the neighbourhood of Saccara that 
have the molt elevated pofition. One only of them was entire ; and 
they differed very effentially in their figure from thofe of Giza. We 
followed in a northern direction the elbow of the canal, and were 
carried into a large lake formed by the inundation, and extending to 
the village of Saccara, near to which ftand the two principal pyra- 
mids, and, in their vicinity, the plain of mummies, on a fandy bill 
or eminence, whofe bottom is of hard rock, a circumftance that was 
ebfervablc when we entered the pits. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 337 

Acrofs this lake, which ran eaft and weft, was a large mound, or 
caufeway, which led from a village oppoftte to Saccara to the foot of 
the pyramids, and at the commencement of which, next to the vil- 
lage, was a ftone bridge having feveral arches. Near to it was an 
elevated ground, which, as it correfponded exactly with the account 
fome authors have given of the pofition of Memphis, we fancied to be 
the fite of that ancient and celebrated city. Our conjectures relative 
to the lake were that it had been applied by the inhabitants of Mem- 
phis to the purpofe of tranfporting their dead to the plain or fepulchre 
of mummies. 

Previoufly to our arrival the Sheick of Boufir, a neighbouring vil- 
lage, had been requefted to procure us horfes and guides to enable us 
the more readily to reach the pyramids, and the other fpots we were 
defirous to vifit. They were no fooner arrived than we mounted 
and rode to the pyramids and plain of the mummies, having taken 
the precaution to be provided with rope-ladders, candles, and what- 
ever befides was neceflary for the inveftigation of the catacombs, into 
which we were about to defcend. In entering the pit we were 
obliged to take off a part of our garments ; and having reached the 
interior were {truck with awe by the folemn and novel fcene which 
prefented itfelf to our view. Within the fubterraneous vaults or 
chambers the bones of mutilated mummies, which had been fo often 
rifled and difturbed that not one of them could be found in an entire 
ftate, lay fcattered in confufed heaps, together with the bandages 
and coatings by which they had been enveloped, the latter refem- 
bling a black bituminous fubftance. As nothing in the vaults had 
preferved its original pofition, it was in vain for us to profecute our 

X x 



338 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

refearches to come at any thing like a perfect mummy ; and we con- 
tented ourfelves accordingly with collecting fome of the mutilated 
portions, and fome of the bituminous matter, afcending afterwards 
to the mouth or pit of the catacombs. The air of the cells into 
which we had penetrated was foul, noifome, and extremely unplea- 
lant to our fenfations, fince, independently of the exclufion of the 
external air, and of the generation of damp vapours, there was an 
additional fource of noxious effluvia from the gradual and progreffive 
decay of the fubftances they contained. They appeared to have 
been cut out of the folid rock, and to have been coated on the fupe- 
rior part by a thick layer of fand. The entrance which led to them 
was a fquare opening of about four feet; and in penetrating into them 
we had to defcend from fourteen to fixteen feet, by means of a ladder 
made of cords, which being too flender and feeble for fuch a purpofe, 
our tafk was not accomplished without considerable difficulty, and 
fome degree of danger. The pits had been prepared for our vifit by 
the Arabs, who had for that purpofe cleared away the flones and 
rubbifh by which the entrance is ufually choked. 

From the above pits or catacombs we proceeded to thofe of the 
birds, diftant from the former, in a north- weftern direction, nearly a 
mile. The opening was not unlike that through which we had 
already penetrated ; but the entrance into it was, as well as the fub- 
fequent tafk we had to perform, rendered extremely difficult by the 
loofe fand and fragments of ftone which conltantly fell on us 
while within the mouth of the pit, and by which we were at 
intervals nearly fuffbcated. Having defcended to the foot of the 
ladder, we entered an aperture not larger than the fize of the body, 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 339 

and in proceeding through this opening were obliged to lie flat on 
the breaft, groping our way until we reached the paffage which 
led to the pit, a diftance of forty or fifty feet. In this paffage we 
found feveral of the vafes or urns, of baked earth, and of a conical 
fhape, which had contained the mummies of the facred birds. It 
was fmall and narrow, and extended for the fpace of upwards of 
twenty yards, when at length we entered a fomewhat larger paffage, 
which allowed us to change the pofition of the body, and to walk 
ere6t, and at our eafe. 

After a few minutes of further toil and perfeverance, we reached 
the chamber or paffage in which the mummies were depofited, in 
earthen jars nearly two feet in height, narrow and rounded, partaking 
of the fhape of a loaf of fugar : they were arranged tier over tier, 
and completely filled up the fides of the paffage. We feledted feveral 
of thofe which were the moft perfect, and brought them away with 
us. No precaution having been taken to guard againft the rude at- 
tacks of thofe who had vifited this facred depofitory, the fragments 
of vafes in which the mummies had been anciently depofited, were 
fcattered over the paffage in fuch profufion, as to have formed heaps 
of rubbifh over which we were obliged to crawl on our hands and 
knees for a confiderable diftance. We opened feveral of thofe which 
were ftill in an entire ftate, to come at their contents. We found 
that the bill, the bones, and feveral of the feathers even, of the birds, 
had been preferved after fo very confiderable a lapfe of time, the 
fame bandages with the bituminous matter and compofition of fpices 
having been applied to their prefervation with thofe that had been 
employed for the human body. We were thus enabled to afcertain 



34 o TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

that the Ibis of the ancients is precifely the bird of which Bruce has 
given a minute defcription, and which is to this day called by the 
Arabs abou hannes. Thefe birds are in Lower Egypt, I imagine, 
become very fcarce, as I do not recollecl: to have feen one alive dur- 
ing my ftay in that country : a white bird, called ox keeper, by Sa- 
vary, has been occafionally taken for the Ibis ; from which it differs 
much in the fhape of the bill, and in its plumage. 

As it was held facred by the ancient Egyptians, the uncommon 
pains they beftowed in preferving its body from corruption cannot be 
deemed extraordinary, more efpecially as, by its remarkable inftincl, 
it is faid to have preferved Egypt from a great calamity, which it 
would otherwife have encountered. It may be unncceffary for me 
to point out in this place to the well-informed reader that I allude 
to the period when, according to ancient records, the fouth winds 
conveyed to that country from the Lybian deferts, numerous fwarms 
of what have been denominated flying ferpents, but which were moft 
probably locufts, to devour the fruits of the earth, and to eat up the 
harvefts. As the feafon of their invafion drew near, the facred birds, 
guided by the inftincl which warned them of their approach, pro- 
ceeded, it is faid, in large flights, and, laying wait for their devaluat- 
ing enemies, deftroyed them, and thus prevented the ravages with 
which Egypt was threatened. It was perhaps owing to this fortu- 
nate prefervation from the horrors of famine, that the laws of the 
Egyptians relative to the Ibis were fo feverc, an irrevocable fentence 
of death being pronounced on any perfon who mould kill one of 
thefe birds, even accidentally. 

We returned from the interior of the pit by the opening at which 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 34 * 

We had entered, and were happy once again to refpire the frefh and 
wholefome air, of the benefit of which we had been fo long deprived. 
During our ftay within, the effect of the foul air and noifome damps 
was fuch, that we felt an oppreffion of the cheft, and breathed with 
fome difficulty. The fubterraneous pafTages were at the fame time 
fo heated, that a copious perfpiration was diffufed over the furface of 
the fkin. The tafk. we had impofed on ourfelves was not carried 
into execution without great labour and fatigue ; but it afforded us 
in return an infinite gratification. Having made an arrangement 
with the Arabs for the conveyance of our vafes, and the ineftimable 
tfelics they contained, we took a furvey of the furrounding country 
from the plain of mummies, which is fituated on an elevated and 
rocky hill, and overfpread with a confiderable number of pits. On 
its furface, which is covered with a light fand, the fragments of 
bones, of wooden coffins, and bits of the linen which had ferved as 
an envelope to the mummies, with other fubflances drawn from the 
pits, lay profufely fcattered. We had from this pofition a very ex- 
tenfive view of the Nile in its different windings and ramifications* 
as well as of the large tracts of country it had inundated. 

In returning to our germ a great variety of curious Egyptian idols, 
which it was anciently the cuftom to depofit with the mummies, 
were tendered to us for fale. We purchafed a part of them ; and 
the Bedouin Arabs, who had acted in the capacity of guards, and 
had alfo been our guides in defcending into the pits, made us a pre- 
fent of a gazelle, or antelope. 

The fheick whom I have already mentioned had prepared a dinner 
for us, of which we partook on our entering the germ, and hoifted 



342 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

fail, at four in the afternoon, on our return to Cairo, after a very 
agreeable, but at the fame time fatiguing, excurlion. 

The arrangement which we concerted was to land in the evening 
at Sheick Atman, and, having parTed the night there, to fet out 
early on the following morning for Cairo. In purfuing our route, 
the wind frefhened, and at length blew a ftrong gale from the north- 
ward, by which a high furf was thrown up. This induced our boat- 
men to take in the fail, and betake themfelves to their oars, in doing 
which they manifefted great prudence, the germ being a defcription 
of veffel very ealy to overfet, in confequence of the great fpread of 
canvafs with which it is provided. At nine in the evening we 
reached the fpot where we had agreed to land ; and on proceeding 
to the village, found the fame gaiety among its inhabitants, and the 
lame amufements as we had witneffed the preceding evening. 

A fire having been kindled, we refrefhed ourfelves with a cup of 
tea, and afterwards repofed until midnight, when the fail was hoifted,. 
the violence of the wind being eonfiderably abated. After a fail of 
a few hours, we reached the canal of the Prince of the Faithful ; 
and by four in the morning found ourfelves in our lodgings at Cakxx 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 



343 



CHAPTER XIV. 

c 

EXCURSION TO OLD CAIRO GROTTO WHERE THE HOLY FAMILY TOOK 

REFUGE FROM HEROd's PERSECUTION CHAPEL OF ST. GEORGE EX- 
pected visit from the prophet mahomed armistice concluded 

with the french at alexandria excursion to boulac ac- 
count of the colcassium the saffron shrub cassira egyp- 
tian thorn gum arabic herbaceous plants surrender of 

alexandria to the british magnificent burial places mar- 
riage processions inundation of the nile excursion to 

mount mokatam slave market leprosy voyage on the nile 

to alexandria menouf two villages swept away by the 

overflowing of the nile — western branch of the nile man- 
ner of preparing the indigo plantations of rice and sugar- 
canes rosetta plague among the british troops under ge- 
neral baird — lake of aboukir arrival at alexandria pom- 

pey's pillar — cleopatra's needle — part of the colossus of 
memnon return to cairo. 

/'"VN the morning of the 30th of Auguft a falute was fired from 
^""^ the citadel of Cairo, in confequence of favourable intelligence 
received from the Capitan Pacha, and of fome fucceffes obtained by 
the Britifh army in the vicinity of Alexandria. 

I rode on the 3 1 ft to the different forts and towers erected by the 
French to the north and north-eaft of Cairo, and was much con- 
cerned to fee the depredations committed by the Turks, fince their 
arrival, on the works and fortifications, which were contracted of 
wood. Thefe fpoliations had been occafioned by the want of fuel. 



344 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

which in Egypt is chiefly confined to the dung of animals, as IJiave 
already noticed. 

On the 1 ft of September I made an excurfion to Old Cairo, and 
vifited the grotto in which it is faid the holy family fought refuge 
when perfecuted by Herod. Jofeph, having been forewarned by 
the angel of the Lord of the meditated deftruction of the infants by 
that tyrant, fled with the family into Egypt. Over the grotto is a 
Coptic church, the priefts belonging to which derive fome advantage 
from the grotto itfelf, which they fhow to ftrangers who vifit the 
fpot. They alfo difplay their Coptic books, and whatever curiofities 
their church contains. 

At an inconfiderable diftance from the grotto is an Armenian 
chapel, called the chapel of St. George, in confequence of a part of 
the body of that faint having been, according to tradition, depofited 
there. In addition to this chapel, a church, called St. Micarias,. 
ftands in the vicinity. 

This was a day of great feftivity among the Arabs, who enter- 
tained a perfuafion that their prophet Mahomed would pay them 
his cuftomary annual vifit, after having abfented himfelf during 
three years, in confequence of the French being in pofTefnon of 
Cairo. 

Letters from the camp before Alexandria, received on the 2d, con- 
firmed the rumours which had been circulated on the preceding day, 
that, after three battles highly advantageous to the Britifli troops, 
and the capture of four redoubts, and a flotilla of gun-boats, General 
Menou had demanded and obtained a truce of three days. 

The brother of Lord Hutchinfon arrived at Cairo on the 3d with 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 345 

difpatches to the Vizier, containing the account of the armiftice con- 
cluded with the French at Alexandria. On the receipt of thefe 
joyful tidings the Vizier inftantly fet out on a djerid party, in the 
courfe of which he caufed a Janiffary, who had cut and otherwife 
maltreated an Arab, to be flrangled. We were informed that about 
this time near thirty of the Turkifh foldiery had mffered death for 
different offences. When a Janiffary is condemned to die, what- 
ever may be the nature of the crime he has committed, the punifh- 
ment is invariably that of ftrangling. 

Ofman Effendi, the new KiaBey, and Scheriff Effendi, the newly- 
appointed Tefterdar, arrived at Cairo on the 4th from Conftantinople. 

I made an excurfion in the morning to Boulac, which I found in 
a very ruinous ftate. It had formerly contained feveral handfome 
{lone buildings, and was a place of confiderable commerce. The 
landing-place for merchandize was very commodious ; and the ba- 
zars were at the time of my vifit well fupplied. 

I dined afterwards with Monfieur Pine, a merchant of Cairo, with 
whom I had fome converfation relative to the productions of the 
country. He informed me that the colcaffium, arum colocaffia, L. 
the coulcas of the Arabs, was cultivated with great care at Damietta. 
Its leaves are very large : the roots are conically fhaped, and are of 
two kinds, the one red and the other white, the former of which are 
preferred. They are fomewhat larger than thofe of the lotus, and 
are not fo infipid in tafle as the potatoe. The inhabitants are very 
fond of thefe roots, which they introduce into almoft all their difhes; 
but are under the neceffity of fubjecling them to repeated warnings, 
to cleanfe them from the acrid mucilaginous matter with which they 



346 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

abound. It was a portion of one of thefe roots which I tailed while 
at Jaffa, in its crude ftate, and which produced a very acute and 
diftrefling fenfation of the mouth and fauces. Thev are cultivated 
in the fame manner with the potatoe. 

The carthamus fativus, or tinctorius, baflard faffron fhrub, is of 
great utility in Egypt, every part of it being applied to fome purpofe 
or other. The yellow flower, called by the Arabs ofsfur, is, as I 
have already remarked, employed as a dye ; the feeds, named cortoin, 
ferve for the extraction of oil ; and the dried branches for fuel, as 
well as for the manufacture of charcoal. 

Among the few trees in the vicinity of Cairo the date and mul- 
berry are moft confpicuous. A fpecies of the caffia fiftula grows to 
a confiderable height, and affords a very agreeable fhade. Its flowers 
are yellow and large, of a pleafing fmell, and the middle is adorned 
with thrums which refemble tufts of filk. Its fruit is contained in 
a pod which refembles a bean, and is, as well as the leaves, of an 
aftringent quality, corrugating thefkin when externally applied. By 
the Arabs this tree is called lebback. The acacia, mimofa nilotica, 
Lin. or Egyptian thorn, which they name feyfahban, is a beautiful 
tree of a very delicate appearance, the leaves of which refemble thofe 
of the fenfitive plant. It bears a fine round flower of a yellow co- 
lour, and of a very fragrant fmell. Its fruit, which refembles a large 
vetch, is contained in a pod. From this thorn the gum arabic is 
collected. The Arabic name of the fycamore, or Pharaoh fig-tree, is 
gemaiz ; and that of the lotus, or lote-tree, carnoup. 

Among the vegetables is a bean which has a great refemblance to 
the French bean, but is of an inferior quality. The beet, common 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 347 

mallow, lettuce, onions, turnip and other radilhes, are cultivated in 
the gardens : the root of the turnip radifli is not, however, round, 
but more elongated like a carrot. The feeds of the lupin, which 
grows very luxuriantly, are held in great eftimation by the inhabi- 
tants, who alfo employ the lentils in their foups and ragouts. 

Colonel Cole arrived on the 6th at Cairo with difpatches to the 
Vizier, containing the official intelligence from the Britifh army of 
the capitulation and furrender of Alexandria. 

In the afternoon of the fame day we loft one of our military arti- 
ficers, Taylor, who funk under an attack of fever and dyfentery. 

Colonel Cole, and feveral other officers from the Britifh army, to- 
gether with Colonel Holloway and Major Hope, dined on the 7th 
with the Vizier. 

Generals Coote and Ludlow, with their aids-du-camp, and fuites, 
and feveral other British officers, arrived at Cairo on the gth from 
the army before Alexandria, and paid their refpe&s to his Highnefs, 
who on the following day reviewed in their prefence the regiment of 
Sepoys. The review being concluded, a grand djerid party was or- 
dered by the Vizier for the amufement of the Britim Generals and 
Officers. They afterwards dined with the Vizier a V Anglaife, Colonel 
Holloway and Major Hope being of the party. The Generals were 
inverted with pelices by order of his Highnefs ; and in the evening 
there was a difplay of fireworks. 

On the evening of the 12th the above Generals, with their aids-du- 
camp and fuites, took their departure in a germ for Alexandria.. 

On the morning of the 13th I rode to Attar Ennabi, called by the 
Arabs Mefr Attar, and to Diracleer, two villages fituated to the fouth 

y r 2 



348 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

of Old Cairo, on theeaftern bank of the Nile. On returning I palled 
over the ground on which a part of Old Cairo anciently flood, and 
which was of a very confiderable extent. Between this fpot and 
Mount Mokatam are the ruins of a town called by the Arabs Guijfliee. 
In proceeding thence to Cairo I palled through the very extend ve 
burial-ground occupied by the Mamelukes, formerly the moll mag- 
nificent cemetery to be found in Egypt. Each of the vaults for the 
interment of the dead was covered by a dome fupported by four lofty 
columns of ftone or marble. Each family appears to have had its 
feparate inclofure, which is furrounded by ftone walls. 

After the fall of Alexandria a confiderable number of Britifh offi- 
cers came to Cairo, to proceed on a tour to the pyramids, and to 
vifit the other curiolities with which Egypt abounds. In this num- 
ber may be reckoned Generals Coote, Lord Cavan, Finch, Ludlow, 
and Stewart, together with Colonel Lord William Bentinck, and 
ieveral other officers of note. 

The Vizier hTued on the lOth an order for public rejoicings at 
Cairo, to celebrate the fall of Alexandria. Thefe demonstrations 
were continued for three fucceffive days, during which there were 
illuminations in the evenings. 

On the above day there were feveral marriage proceffions at Cairo. 
I have already noticed, without entering on a particular defcription, 
that previoufly to the performance of the religious rites, it is cufto- 
mary for each of the parties to parade feparately the principal and 
more public ftreets. For this purpofe the bride has her face com- 
pletely veiled, and wears a rich lhawl fufpended from her head, and 
flowing loofely down to her feet, with a cap in the form of a crown. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 349 

decorated with fequins, beads, and other fanciful ornaments. In ad- 
dition to this bridal attire fhe is in every other refpect very richly 
drelfed, and is thus led through the ftreets by two of her neareft fe- 
male relatives, having a female at her fide to fan her as fhe paries 
along.* She is preceded by feveral women, who walk two and two ; 
and the proceflion is accompanied by bands of mufic. 

On fome of thefe occafions the bride is fprinkled with rofe-water, 
and has filver velTels, in which fragrant gums are burned, carried be- 
fore her by her attendants. It alfo not unfrequently happens that a 
boy who is to be circumcifed is mounted on horfeback in front of the 
proceffion, and is preceded by a perfon carrying a gilt cafe, not un- 
like in mape the box of one of our raree-fhow men, containing the 
razors to be employed in the operation. The boy is richly drefTed, 
and being mounted on a horfe finely caparifoned, parades the town 
with feveral attendants in his fuite, holding to his mouth a white 
handkerchief, and having his hands and fingers ftained with the leaves 
of the henna. 

Major Fletcher of the engineers arrived at Cairo on the 18th from 
Alexandria, where he had been detained as a prifoner lince the un- 
fortunate accident I have already noticed. 

On the 1 Qth the Vizier requefted of Colonel Holloway to furnifh 
him with a report containing his opinion of the works of Cairo, and 
of the bell mode of defence. 

I fet out early in the morning with a party to proceed by water to 



* Over the bride is carried a canopy formed of rich, fhawls, &c. fupported by four 
male attendants; the JanilTaries are frequently employed upon thefe occafions. 



350 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

the pyramids of Giza, from which place we were joined by another 
party, confining of Colonel Ramfay and feveral other Britilh officers. 
Our excurfion was pleafing beyond defcription, the inundation of the 
Nile having converted the villages by which we were furrounded into 
fo many iflands, the appearance of which was highly piclurefque. 
The inhabitants, both men, women, and children, fwam from village 
to village, carrying their clothes on the head ; and many of them 
came to the pyramids in queft of bock/hi/h, or money. The donations 
w hich they receive on thefe occafions become the fubjecl: of much 
flrife and contention, in arranging the proportion which mould fall 
to the lot of each of the claimants, and mark the fufpicious difpofition 
of the Arabs, as well as the avarice w r hich is fo prominent a feature 
in their character. 

We were conveyed by water nearly to the foot of the mountains 
on which the pyramids are fituated, having a walk of about ten mi- 
nutes only to afcend to the latter. After having gratified ourfelves 
by an examination of the exterior and interior details, into a parti- 
cular defcription of which I have already entered, of thefe ftupendous 
monuments of art, we returned in our germ to Cairo. The Nile 
continuing to rife, the whole of the country between Giza and the 
pyramids was completely inundated, together with the greater part 
of the ifland of Rouda. 

A party having been made for the 22d, wefet out from Cairo at an 
early hour in the morning, and proceeded to the foot of Mount Mo- 
katam, called by the Arabs Gibbel Guijmee, where we alighted, and 
afcended the mountain by winding paths which had been traced for 
the convenience of the traveller. The morning was very favourable 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 351 

to our purpofe, the fky being covered by thin clouds which fliielded 
us from the piercing rays of the fun, without obfcuring one of the 
moll: charming views imaginable, from the fummit of the mountain, 
as well of Grand Cairo and of the furrounding country, as of the very 
extenfive defert leading to Suez. In every part of the level country 
we perceived that the inundation of the Nile had formed capacious 
feas and lakes. 

The furface of Mount Mokatam is compofed of a variety of Jub- 
ilances, of which the principal is a yellow calcareous ftone fufficiently 
firm in its texture to be converted to a variety of ufeful purpofes in 
the construction of buildings, &c. In fome parts we met with a mix- 
ture of llate-ftone and fand ; and in others with a foft and white 
calcareous ftone, from which the reflected rays of the fun, when it 
burft from between the clouds, was very haraffing to the fight. 

On the flat furfaces of the mountain we difcovered the evident 
effects of the rains, in the formation of clefts or fiffures. In the 
courfe of our refearches we met with but one entire catacomb, chiz- 
zeled out of the rock, but which had been fpoiled of its contents. 

Major Fletcher of the Engineers, who was one of our party, hav- 
ing infpected the different commanding heights, and made feveral 
fketches, we defcended the mountain, and returned to Cairo. 

I rode afterwards to viiit the building in which the black Haves of 
both fexes are kept for fale. The entrance was by a large gateway, 
which brought me into a fquare, furrounded by fmall cells or cham- 
bers in which the Haves of either fex were refpeclively lodged. There 
are two ftories of thefe cells fitted for their reception; but I faw 



352 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

within the fquare three negrefles only, one of whom had a very 
young infant, of a white colour. 

Thefe unfortunate wretches are expofed to fale like cattle, or 
horfes, brought to an European market ; but this cruel traffic had for 
feveral years been interrupted, and indeed nearly annihilated, by the 
obftacles which had prevented the regular arrival of the caravans, 
one of which was, however, expected in the courfe of a week, or a 
fortnight, with a confiderable number of flaves. 

Being at no great diftance from the place where the white flaves, 
natives of Georgia, CircafTia, and the other countries fubjected to 
the Turkifh domination, are kept, I rode to the building deftined 
for that purpofe, and found it to have a leis wretched appearance, 
and to be freer from filth, than the one I had juft quitted. It did 
not contain any flaves at the time of my vifjt. 

I rode, on the 23d, to Birket-il-fyl, a large fquare, fituated in the 
centre of Cairo, which had been converted into a vaft lake by the 
inundation of the Nile. In paffing through one of the ftreets, I 
met with a melancholy and diftreffed object, afflicted to an extraor- 
dinary degree with leprofy. I was afterwards told by an inhabitant 
of Cairo, to whom I mentioned this circumflance, that in the ifland 
of Scio there is a village fet apart for lepers, to which all the inhabi- 
tants of the different iflands afflicted by that difeafe are fent, and 
which is of courfe exclufively inhabited by thefe unfortunate indi- 
viduals. 

I procured, at one of the bazars of Cairo, a fample of the flone 
which is employed by the Arabs to cure the mange in horfes. To 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 353 

effect this, they pound the (tone, and convert it into a pafte, which 
they fpread ever every part of the animal, fufFering it to remain on 
for the fpace of three days, when it is wafhed off. This ftone is col- 
lected on Mount Mokatam, is of a yellow colour, of a texture fome^ 
what foft, and is named in Arabic tuff. 

On the 30th Colonel Capper and Major Bell, in the fervice of the 
Honourable Eaft India Company, left Cairo on their way to India. 

During the prefent month of September there were fewer difeafes 
and lefs mortality, both among the inhabitants of Cairo and the 
Turkim troops, than had occurred during the preceding months. 

Colonel Holloway, Major Hope, and myfelf, having projected an 
excurfion to Alexandria, a boat was for that purpofe brought up to 
the canal, and ftationed near to our refidence, on the 2d of October. 
Every neceffary preparation having been made, we embarked on the 
following afternoon, with a frefh northerly gale, in a row boat, pror 
vided with twelve oars, and in the courfe of an hour arrived at Boulac, 
where our boatmen took on board whatever was neceiTary for the 
voyage. At half part five o'clock we left Boulac ; and at nine in 
the evening arrived at Shellacan, or Charlacan, where we repofed 
for the night in our boat, it being made fait to the more. At three 
in the morning of the 4th we profecuted our voyage by the canal 
of Menouf, oppofite to which place we arrived at eight o'clock, and, 
having landed, proceeded to the town, where we paid a vifit to the 
Aga, or governor. We were very hofpitably entertained by him 
with coffee and other refrefhments, in addition to which he made 
us a prefent of fowls, and other Hock for our voyage. 

While the French were in pofTeffion of Menouf, they erected two 



354 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

round towers, one at each extremity of the town, the whole of the 
country furrounding which was fo completely overflowed by the 
inundation of the Nile, that two villages had been entirely fwept 
away. This devaluation having occurred immediately before our 
arrival, we faw the wretched inhabitants, men, women, and chil- 
dren, wading through the water, with their clothes on their heads, 
and fwimming acrofs the fpots which the canals had deepened, to 
leek fhelter at Menouf, and wherever they could find an afylum. In 
this way feveral hundreds of them were employed in driving before 
them their buffaloes, cattle, and other live flock. Here I mould 
obferve, that the buffalo is an animal very expert in croffing rivers, 
and in wading through places where there are large accumulations 
of water, on which account, as well as on many others, it is admi- 
rably adapted to the Egyptian territory, expofed as it is to an annual 
inundation. This creature may, indeed, be in a great meafure con- 
fidered as amphibious, and is extremely fond of wallowing in the 
water, over the furface of which the head only is to be perceived. 

Menouf, like all the towns of inferior note in Egypt, is principally 
compofed of mud huts, which make a very wretched appearance. 
It contains a manufactory of mats, executed with great tafte and 
neatnefs, and well adapted to the climate of Egypt. 

At half paft nine in the morning we quitted that place, and at 
the expiration of nearly two hours entered the weftern, or Rofetta 
branch of the Nile. In confequence, however, of the immenfe 
quantities of water which had overflowed the furrounding country, 
and by which the greater part of the villages were in a manner ifo- 
latcd, and Handing in the midft of immenfe lakes, it was extremely 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 355 

difficult to afcertain the boundaries of the river. Such only of the 
villages as were fituated on an elevated ground were capable of re-, 
fitting the devaftating effects of the waters. 

At five in the afternoon we arrived at the village of Benofah, and, 
having landed, found the inhabitants bufied in preparing the indigo, 
of which a great confumption is made throughout Egypt. I have 
already touched on the procelfes employed, in detailing the particu- 
lars of my vifit to Heliub ; but on this latter occafion I was enabled 
to examine the cakes procured from the fediment of the beaten and 
macerated plant. If greater pains were to be beftowed by the na- 
tives of Egypt in the manufacture of this dye, the quality of the 
plant from which it is obtained is fo good, that it would become a 
very valuable and extenfive article of commerce. 

Having pafled the night in our boat, we profecuted our route at 
five in the morning of the 5th, and arrived at noon at Foua, fituated 
on the eaftern banks of the Nile, in the Delta, which had formerly 
been a place of very confiderable commerce. The buildings it con- 
tains are far fuperior to thofe which are generally met with in Egypt, 
and of a much more cheerful appearance, being conftructed of a 
reddifh brick, pointed with mortar. At this place, which had ftill 
an air of carrying on an inconfiderable mare of traffic, we halted for 
about an hour, and were charmed by the pleafing afpecl of the fur- 
rounding country, which was in a high ftate of cultivation, and 
fupplied with a greater variety of trees than we had hitherto ob- 
ferved. Within the town the inhabitants were bufied in preparing 
the flax, and extracting the oil from the feeds. We obferved feveral 
plantations of rice and fugar-canes. 



356 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY,. 

At half paft four in the afternoon we arrived at Rofetta, and im* 
"mediately waited on the Britifh commandant, Colonel Barlow, of 
the Gift regiment. We alfo paid our refpecls to the Turkifh gover- 
nor, who very obligingly fent us a fupper. We paffed the night as 
ufual in our boat, and were dreadfully tormented by the mofquitoes 
and fand flies. 

A diftant view of Rofetta, as it is pleafantly fituated on the weftern 
branch of the Nile, is accurately given in Plate XIX. 

On the morning of the 6th we vifited the encampment of General 
Baird, diftant from Rofetta about four miles, and were much con- 
cerned to hear that the plague had recently broken out among the 
troops, fifteen of whom, partly Britim and partly Sepoys, had funk 
under its attacks. Not one of the Sepoys who had received the in- 
fection efcaped ; and as a certain number of them were employed 
in an attendance on the fick, feveral of them were in this way cut off 
by a communication of the difeafe. All the neceffary precautions 
had been adopted, and among others the ft'ridl performance of qua- 
rantine. Among the other prevalent difeafes in the camp, dyfentery 
and ophthalmia were very obftinate and difficult of cure. 

Having been fupplied by General Baird with a tent and three 
Sepoys as attendants, and procured, by the mediation of the Turkifh 
governor at Rofetta, a few camels and miferable horfes, we quitted 
the camp on the morning of the 7th, at half pan: eight o'clock, on 
our w ay to Alexandria. In croffing the defert, we met with the re- 
mains of eleven pillars, conftrucled of brick, which had formerly been 
creeled to direct the paffenger on his way. The road we took, after 
having quitted the encampment, led obliquely towards the fea more, 




'P7 



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n/M'///"/ rt-ns (^//u/ //u/ ;/ 



/7> 



lUbUthedMarch 1.1803 by RfhiWps W71 SSFaidi ChurchYard. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 357 

and was very agreeable, independently of the advantage of the fea 
" breeze, by which we were refrefhed. The profpecl before us was, 
however, occafionally rendered painful and diftreffing by great num- 
bers of human bodies in a mangled ftate, together with detached 
bones, &c. fcattered on the beach to atteft the frequency of the fhip- 
wrecks which had occurred, and which had united their ravages to 
the difafters occafionally attendant on a paffage acrofs the defert. To 
thefe caufes, productive of fo difgufting a fcene, may be added the 
dreadful Slaughter of the Turks by the French which happened fome 
time before in the neighbourhood of Aboukir, when the former were 
headed by Sir Sydney Smith, who gallantly endeavoured to rally them, 
but in vain.. In endeavouring to efcape from the French, feveral 
thoufends threw themfelves into the fea and were drowned. 

At two in the afternoon we arrived at the caravanfary, . and were 
there under the neceffity of crofling a ferry, the rapidity of the cur- 
rents occafioned by the rifing of the Nile having fwept away the 
bridge of boats thrown acrofs the river by order of the Britifh Com- 
mander in Chief, to facilitate the communication between Alexan- 
dria and Rofetta. It was at this place that the French troops under 
the command of General Belliard embarked, after the capitulation 
: of Cairo, from which place they had been marched. We were de- 
tained until half paft four o'clock, when at length a germ was in 
readinefs to receive palTengers, camels, horfes, and, in general, what- 
ever was to be conveyed acrofs the river, the current of which was 
rendered extremely rapid at the time of our embarkation, by the 
flowing of the waters of Lake Edco into the fea. Having made 
good our paffage, and the camels being again laden with the baggage, 



35 8 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

we bent our way towards the block-houfe, which we reached at the 
clofe of the evening. To effecl: a paflage acrofs the mouth of Lake 
Maadie, now called Lake Aboukir, and with a view to the more 
fpeedy conveyance of paffengers, ftores, and baggage, feveral boats 
had been fattened together fo as to form a kind of floating ftage : 
one of thefe boats having, however, been unfortunately funk, this 
mode of conveyance was impeded for the moment, infomuch that it 
became necelfary, on the arrival of travellers, to tow their horfes and 
camels acrofs the entrance of the lake. As this was to us an unfur- 
mountable .obftacle, now that the night was fetting in, we pitched 
our tent, partook of the few refrefhments we had left, and repofed 
ourfelves for the night, with an aflurance that we mould be furnifhed 
with a boat in the morning to convey us and our fervants to the 
camp. It was agreed that our camels and horfes mould, together 
with the principal part of our baggage, wait our return at the block- 
houfe. The camp before Alexandria was diftant from us about nine 
miles by water, Lake Maadie, or Aboukir, occupying the whole of 
this extent, and communicating, by the new cut, with Lake Ma- 
reotis. The latter had become fo formidable, that, in fpreading 
itfelf over a very confiderable tracl; of country, it had already deftroyed 
fixteen villages, and had extended, in a fouthern direction, upwards 
of thirty miles. The low fwampy grounds in the vicinity of Alexan- 
dria were at this time completely inundated ; and it is generally con- 
fidered that whenever this circumftance occurs, it is highly in favour of 
the falubrity of the place. It was accompanied, however, by this in- 
convenience, that the canal of Alexandria having been entirely de- 
flroyed by the effect of the great accumulation of the waters, the 



t 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 359 

inhabitants were thus deprived of their fupply of frem water, until 
they could dam up the cuts, which were now of an immenfe breadth. 
It was in agitation to put them into a proper ftate of repair ; and in 
the mean time a bridge of boats was thrown acrofs them, to enable 
the fhipping to procure a fupply of frelh water from the canal fituated 
above. 

We rofe on the 8th, at feven in the morning, and having break- 
fafted, embarked on board a germ. After a plealing fail up Lake 
Aboukir, we reached the Britifli encampment at noon, and landed 
near the depot of artillery, whence we proceeded to pay our refpecls 
to the commander in chie£ with whom we dined. Our tent, w r ith 
which we were fupplied by the Capitan Pacha, was pitched near to 
that of the general, at an inconfiderable diftance from the fea fliore, 
and precifely on the fpot where the battle of the ] 3th of March was 
fought. 

We were employed on the Qth in viewing the different military 
pofitions. Nearly three thoufand of the French troops who had 
capitulated ftill remained to be embarked. 

After having, on the morning of the 1 oth, vifited the depot of 
artillery, we rode to the weftern camp of Alexandria, and were gra- 
tified by a fight of Pompey's pillar, as it is commonly denominated, 
anciently fituated in the centre of Old Alexandria, but at leaft a mile 
diflant from the new city of that name. Some late difcoveries have 
afcertained that this celebrated monument was erected in honour of 
the Emperor Domitian. It is a very beautiful granite column, of 
the Corinthian order ; the lhaft alone is ninety feet in height, inde- 
pendently of its bafe, which is in height five feet. The latter was 



3 6o TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

formerly in a very mattered ftate, but had been repaired fome years 
before our vifit by a Turkifti governor of Alexandria. It was fur- 
mounted by a French cap of liberty, which the Britifh afterwards 
removed. This column, or pillar, confifts of three diftinct pieces of 
red granite. The obeliik, or needle of Cleopatra, ftanding at no 
great diftance from it, is formed of one entire piece of the fame ma- 
terial, notwithstanding it rifes mare than fixty feet from the furface, 
with a confiderable portion of its bafe funk into the earth. Near to 
it another obeliik of the fame form, and of a fimilar material, lies on 
the ground. The hieroglyphic characters infcribed on each, hav- 
ing been cut into the {tone to a great depth, are very perfect, with 
the exception of thofe on the eaftern fide of the upright obclifk, 
where the hot winds have caufed the furface of the granite to fcale 
off in portions. In the other parts it {till retains a very beautiful 
polifh. 

On the 1 1th we rode to Alexandria, and in palling through the 
marine gate, faw the back of the hand of a colofTus of granite, which., 
from the knuckles to the articulation of the wrift, meafured upwards 
of a yard. It had been brought by the French from Upper Egypt, 
and was conjectured to have been a portion of the cololTus erected 
in that country in honour of Memnon. It {till retained a beau- 
tiful polifh. Near to the fpot on which it lay, feveral fine relics of 
antiquity, fuch as farcophagi infcribed with hieroglyphics, &c. were 
fcattered on the ground. 

On the 12th, at break of day, the brigade of Britifh troops com- 
manded by General Stewart was brought into the field, and was 
jeviewed by the Capitan Pacha, who came to the ground with 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 361 

great pomp and ceremony, and attended by a very fplendid and nu- 
merous fuite. 

On the 14th the different works, and among others the Pharos, 
retained by the French fince the capitulation, were delivered up to 
the Britim, this being the day on which the whole of the enemy's 
troops ftill remaining in Egypt were to embark and proceed on their 
voyage for France. 

The Charon arrived at Alexandria from Malta, with the intelli- 
gence that the Succefs frigate and Bulldog floop of war had been 
recaptured by the Britim. cruifers. 

On the morning of the 15th I rode to the old ruins, where the 
temerity of the French commander in chief, in the attack he or- 
dered on the ever memorable 21 ft of March, was attended by fb 
dreadful a flaughter of his troops. To atteft the great numbers who 
had fallen within the ruins by the bayonets of the 42d, 28th, and 
5 2d regiments, the Ipot was furrounded by immenfe mounds, be- 
neath which the bodies of the {lain had been interred. 

On the 16th the Capitan Pacha, accompanied by Lord Cavan, 
and furrounded by a numerous fuite, entered and took poffeffion of 
Alexandria, 

In entering the above city, I palTed through the two fortified poll- 
tions which had been occupied by the Britifh and French, each of 
them extending from the fea to the lakes Maadie and Mareotis. 
Thefe lines, or pofitions, had been formed on fandy heights, oppofite 
to each other, and were feparated by a plain of about two miles and 
a half in extent. I forbear to enter into any particular defcription, 
either of thefe military pofitions, or of the works and fortifications 

3 A 



3 6>2 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

in general about Alexandria, being impreffed with a full perfuafion 
that this tafk will be undertaken and executed with ability by fome 
of the military who partook of the dangers, and fhared the laurels of 
the Egyptian campaign. 

Having taken our leave of the Britifh commander in chiefi and 
of the numerous friends we had found at Alexandria, we quitted the 
encampment at noon, and entered a Turkifh barge, which had been 
for that purpofe brought up. to the wharf near the depot of artillery. 
We failed acrofs Lake Aboukir, and arrived at two in the afternoon 
at the block houfe where we had been detained for the night on 
our route to Alexandria. We were there informed, that on the pre- 
ceding evening a Dehli, who had been in want of the ftage of boats 
which had been repaired fmce our laft vifit, and which happened at 
the moment to be ftatroned on the oppofite fide, had repeatedly dif- 
charged his mufket loaded with ball cartridges. The confequence 
of this imprudence was, that a ball had entered the moulder of one 
of our horfes, and occafioned the death of the animal. The Dehli 
had been fecured ; and on a complaint being made by the commif- 
fary to the Kia Bey, to whom the nature of the accident was ex- 
plained, the latter promifed that the horfe belonging to the Dehli 
mould be fent to replace that which had been killed, and a proper 
punifliment inflicted on the culprit. Whether the latter part of 
this promife was complied with we could not afcertain ; but it is 
certain that the horfe was never fent. This fact, however, accords 
with Turkifh promifes in general. 

At eight in the morning of the 17th we proceeded with our 
camels, horfes, and baggage, to the caravanfary, and found no diffi- 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 363 

culty in croffing the paffage in the germ flationed there for the 
purpofe. 

On our way to Rofetta, we took the road which led by the fea 
fide, and in approaching Edco, came to a marabout, beneath the 
lhade of which we halted, and took refrefhments. We had under- 
ftood that a well of good water was ufually to be found at this fpot ; 
but the water we were enabled to procure was brack ifh, and in other 
refpects of a bad quality. 

We reached Rofetta at four in the afternoon, and having paid our 
refpects to Colonel Barlow, the Britifh commandant, were fupplied 
with a fupper by the Turk ifh governor. 

We fpent the whole of the 1 8th at Rofetta, and on the following 
morning rofe at early dawn to prepare for our return to Cairo. Hav- 
ing taken our breakfaft with General Baird, we proceeded to join 
the boats at the village of Hammet. In the courfe of the preceding 
evening the weather had been flormy, with much thunder and rain ; 
but the morning was fine, the wind fallen, and the Iky overfpread 
with light clouds, to fhield us from the fcorching rays of the fun. 
At half paft eight o'clock we entered our boat, which, as it was un- 
provided with a fail, was attached to a germ, to be in this way towed 
up to Cairo, the boatmen declaring, that in confequence of the 
ftrength of the current which fet in againfl us, it would require at 
leaft a month to accomplifh their object with oars. 

We had laid in a flock of provifions for three or four days, and 
had to felicitate ourfelves on this provident fupply, fince, on our ar- 
rival at Foua, at five in the afternoon, the boatmen declared that 
they could proceed no further until the next morning, on account 

3 A 2 



364 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

of the fcantinefs of the wind, which would not enable them to ftem 
the current. It was in vain for us to expoftulate ; and we Submitted 
to the neceffity, however painful it was, of paffing the night at Foua 
in our boat. 

We were up betimes on the morning of the 20th, but were de- 
tained by the calms until half pair, eight o'clock, when a light breeze 
Springing up, we obliged the boatmen to proceed, in Spite of the 
reluctance they flill manifefted. The wind frefhening, and becom- 
ing more favourable in the eourfe of the day, we profecuted our 
voyage until the following morning, when we reached Boulac at one 
o'clock. We remained there until fix, at which time we paffed 
through the bridge of boats at Fort Ibrahim, and at eight o'clock 
reached CafTan Bey. Whatever fatisfaction we might feel on finding 
ourfelves once more at Cairo r to which place we were now become 
attached by a refidence of a considerable duration, we had every rea* 
Son to be well Satisfied with the pleafurable excurfion we had made. 

I mall follow up this little tour by Some details relative to Cairo, 
its inhabitants, and the country by which it is Surrounded ; and fhall 
then proceed to the recital of the events which occurred in Egypt, 
fubfequently to the laft date of my narrative. 



f 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 



3 6 5 



CHAPTER XV. 

DESCRIPTION OF GRAND CAIRO — THE CITADEL CONJECTURES RELATIVE 

TO ITS ANTIQUITY FORTIFICATIONS RAISED BY THE FRENCH THE 

MINT— REMARKABLE DEBASEMENT OK THE COIN STREETS- OF CAIRO 

CONSTRUCTION OF THE HOUSES INTERIOR AND FURNITURE OF THE 

HOUSES PALACES OF THE BEYS MOSQUES DIMENSIONS OF THE CITY 

BAZARS, OR SHOPS 1MPRO VISATORI POPULATION OF CAIRO JO- 
SEPH'S WELL PALACE OF THE CALIPH SALAH-ED-DIN INHABITANTS 

OF CAIRO COPTIC LANGUAGE DRESS MANUFACTURES SWORD 

BLADES HORSES COMMERCE OF EGYPT AMUSEMENTS OF CAIRO 

DAN-CSNG GIRLS JUGGLERS TUMBLERS AND POSTURE-MASTERS OLD 

CAIRO BOULAC GRAND AQUEDUCT BEASTS OF BURTHEN THE BUF- 
FALO OXEN, GOATS, FOWLS, &C. FRUITS OF EGYPT VEGETABLES 

CORN. 

RAND CAIRO, the capital of Egypt, is by the Arabs called 
Mefr, or MefTer, and has alfo been denominated, in the lan- 
guage of the country, Kahira. It is fituated beneath Mount Mokat- 
tam, to the foot of which it reaches, on the eaftern bank of the Nile, 
from which it is nearly a mile diftant, and is furrounded by a wall, 
the circumference of which may be computed at about three leagues* 
The cafile, or citadel, Hands on the molt elevated part of the 
town, under Mount Mokatam, which, in the Arabic tongue, is 

called. Gibbel Girgis. It is conje&ured by fome to have been built 

v 

by Salah-Edden, a Sultan of Egypt, feventeen centuries ago ; while 
others carry back its antiquity to a Hill more remote period, to the 



3 66 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

fLouriming period of ancient Greece, and conjecture it to have confti- 
tuted a part of the Egyptian Babylon. It comprehends a very large 
fpace of ground, and contains many ruinous buildings, a part of which 
formerly boafted a confiderable mare of fplendor, Laving been inha- 
bited by the Sultans of Egypt. Prior to the invafion of Egypt by 
the French, the Pacha of Cairo refided in a palace, now in a very 
ruinous condition, within the citadel ; and independently of the 
quarter occupied by him, his guards, fuite, corps of JanifTaries, and 
AfTafs, had diftincl portions of the buildings affigned to them. 

However formidable this citadel may be to the inhabitants of 
Cairo, its pofition would be by no means advantageous in the cafe 
of a regular fiege, fince it is fo completely commanded by Mount 
Mokattam, that an experienced enemy from without would have 
every advantage over the befieged inhabitants. 

The walls of the citadel, which have been fuffered in a great mea- 
fure to fall into decay, are in general lofty, and appear to have been 
well built. In many parts they were repaired, fortified, and new 
modelled by the French, whofe principal aim feems to have been a 
perfect command of the town, which, in its prefent {late, it povTefTes 
in a fufncient .degree to overawie the inhabitants in all cafes of popular 
tumult and commotion. 

For the further defence of Cairo, to which they defervedly attached 
a very particular importance, the French conftruded feveral fmall 
forts and block-houfes on the different commanding mounds of rub- 
bifli by which that city is every where furrounded. They alfo 
formed lines which extended from Grand Cairo to the Nile, inclof- 
jtig Boulac on the north fide ; and, to the fouthward, converted the 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 367 

aqueduct into a wall of defence, reaching from the river fide to the 
walls of Cairo. 

On the iflands of Roudah and Lazaretta feveral fmall works were 
thrown up ; and on the approach of the Britim army feveral veffels 
were funk in fuch a manner as to form a boom extending acrofs the, 
Nile from the ifland of Lazaretta to the village of Embaba. In ad- 
dition to thefe defences, the houfe of Ibrahim Bey, fituated on the 
eaftern bank of the Nile, was converted into a fmall fort ; and the 
village of Giza furrounded by a wall, with feveral fletches thrown 
out in earth works, and palifadoed. 

Within the citadel of Cairo there is a mint in which gold and 
filver monies* having on them the ftamp of the city, are coined. In 
Egypt, as well as in Turkey, the latter of thefe coins are fo much 
debafed, that the proportion of filver contained in them does not 
exceed twenty-five per cent. 

The ftreets of Cairo are extremely narrow, and winding in their 
direction : being at the fame time unpaved, the ftranger who paffes 
through them labours under many difficulties, and, in confequence 
of their great intricacy, is frequently obliged to have recourfe to a 
guide. Their very contracted breadth has, however, this conve- 
nience, that it affords to the inhabitants an almoft continual made, 
which, in a climate like that of Egypt, where the fun's rays fried fo 
intenfe and fcorching a heat, cannot be otherwife than highly accept- 
able. They are rendered flill more cool and agreeable by being, fre- 
quently, in the courfe of the day, fprinkled with water;, and in this 
way the duft, which, when dry, is converted into fo fine and impal- 
pable a powder, as to be raifed into the air by the fmallefl puff of 



3 68 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

w ind, is laid and arretted in its progrefs. One of the greateft annoy- 
ances to which perfons on foot can be fubjecled, is thus in a great 
meafure removed. 

The houfes of Cairo are lofty, and provided with flat roofs, or 
terraces, the walls of the lower {lory being conftru&ed of a whitifti 
{lone, brought from the neighbouring mountain. The upper {lories 
are built of wood, with the windows projecting into the flreet, and 
latticed. The projection is frequently carried to mch an excefs, that 
the oppofite windows of the houfes on each fide of the ftreet nearly 
touch each other. 

Within, the apartments of the principal houfes are large and com- 
modious, and have a capacious opening facing the north, which 
ierves as a ventilator, and allows a conftant current of air to pafs 
through the dwelling. In the houfes inhabited by the Beys, and by 
the more opulent of the merchants, there are handfome fountains 
which are conftantly playing. This is confidered as one of the 
greateft luxuries that can be enjoyed within doors. The floors are 
of ftone, and are ufually decorated with mofaic work, executed with 
much tafte and neatnefs. The furniture is much the fame as that 
employed in Turkey, and confiils principally of fofas and carpets. 

The great and the wealthy ufually repofe on a fofa, in the calm 
enjoyment of all the pomp and luxury of the eaft, fmoking until 
fun-fet, and taking between meals their coffee, fherbet, &c. while 
the numerous clafs of the indigent inhabitants toil unceafingly, with- 
out a fhelter from the fcorching rays of the fun, and ftill appear 
cheerful and contented with a fcanty meal. This defcription of 
people, indeed, live extremely hard, have fcarcely a fufficiency of 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 369 

clothing to hide their nakednefs, and fleep and herd with their ani- 
mals in filth and wretchednefs. 

The palaces of the Beys are very capacious, and are furrounded by 
high walls, with a wide entrance, but without windows, exteriorly 
at leaft, on the ground floor. Many of them were in a ruinous ftate 
at the time of our arrival at Cairo, having been partly demolifhed by 
the French, together with nearly the whole of one of the fides of a 
large fquare called Ezbekier. 

The mofques occupy at Cairo large fpaces of ground, and are very 
numerous. Their minarets have a fine appearance from a diftance ; 
but the mofques themfelves are much inferior to thofe of Conftan- 
tinople. 

The length of the city, from north to fouth, is about a league and 
a half, and its breadth nearly a league. It is provided with feveral 
gates, or entrances, the principal one of which, leading in a northern 
direction towards Syria, is called Babel Naffer. On entering the 
city by this gate, the traveller finds himfelf in a long and narrow 
ftreet, which, as it is one of thofe more particularly appropriated to 
commerce, is very populous, and conflantly thronged with paffen- 
gers. It contains many bazars, or mops, fitted up for the different 
trades and profeffions, and which are not ill fupplied with the com- 
modities and manufactures of the country, as well as with thofe im- 
ported from Europe. In this flreet, and in feveral others which are 
refpectably inhabited, a kind of wooden chandeliers are fufpended in 
the centre, at a convenient height, to be employed in the illumina- 
tions which take place on th&celebration of the different feftivals. 

Each of the coffee-houfes of Cairo is frequented by a reciter of 

3 E 



3/0 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

extemporaneous verfes, or perhaps by feveral. By contributing to 
the amufement of the company, thefe hnprovifatori collect fmall 
fums to relieve their neceffities, which, as their fole dependence is- 
placed on the fkill they have acquired in the recital of their im- 
promptus, are of the moft urgent kind. Accordingly, they are to be 
met with, not only in the coffee- houfes, but on the beft frequented 
roads, in the moft impoverished and abject condition, frequently 
with a cap of rufhes on the head, as a distinctive mark of their voca- 
tion. They there lay the paffengers under contribution,, by the re- 
cital of verfes in their praife, which, notwithstanding thofe whom 
they accoft are utterly unknown to them, are certain to be filled 
with the moft fulfome adulation. 

It was impoffible for me to form an accurate idea of the popular 
tion of Cairo, which I was, however, led to think very considerable: 
This opinion was probably in fome meafure influenced by the nar- 
rownefs of the ftreets, which occafions them to be almoft conftantly 
crowded with paffengers. It is proper to ftate, however, that there 
are in that city very large areas, or fpaees- of ground, unoccupied, 
independently of the very extenfive openings which furround the 
mofqucs, the houfes of the Beys, and the public buildings. Any 
inference I could draw on this head from the mortality which took 
place during my ft ay there, would be very uncertain. 

I could not learn that there are any wells of frem water at Cairo,, 
with the exception of one in the citadel, which boafh a eonfiderable- 
degree of antiquity, and is very curious in its construction. Its origin 
is carried back to the reign of the Caliph Salah-ed-din, whofe name 
properly fgnifies Jofcph ; and it is reafonable to fuppoie that it has 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 371 

received from this circumftance the denomination of Jofcph's well, 
rather than that it was named, as fome have fuppofed, after the 
patriarch Jofeph, the reputed father of our Saviour. Within the 
citadel there is a very extenfive building, w hich, as it is conjectured 
to have been formerly the refidence of the Caliph Jofeph, or Salah- 
ed-din, is called Jofeph' s palace, and contains feveral veftiges of its 
ancient fplendor. One apartment in particular is ornamented with 
beautiful mofaic work, but this room is at prefent converted into a 
cloth manufactory; it leads into another apartment, the ceiling of 
which was formerly embellilhed with paintings In frefco. What 
renders the remote antiquity of this palace, which has been without 
doubt the refidence of the Caliphs of Egypt, unquefiionable. is, that 
the names of the ancient monarchs of Egypt are engraven on its 
walls, in characters w hich leave no uncertainty as to the time of their 
being wrought. 

To return to Jofeph's well. It is in depth no lefs than two hun- 
dred and eighty Englifh feet, and in circumference forty, with a 
winding gallery, by which the men and cattle employed to procure 
the water afcend and defcend at pleafure. Both the well and the 
gallery leading to it are hewn out of the folid rock, an undertaking 
which could not have been accomplilhed without a confiderable mare 
of labour and difficulty, notwithftanding the fubftance of the rock 
confifts in that part of a calcareous Hone, which is not of the hardefl 
texture. The water, which is brackifh, is drawn up by the means 
of large wheels, to which earthen vafes are fattened, and which are 
worked by oxen and buffaloes. The vafes empty themfelves into a ; 

3 B 2 



372 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

trough, where the water is collected for the various purpofes for 
which it is deftined. 

The inhabitants of Cairo are alfo fupplied with water from the 
Nile ; and in this way employment is found for a coniiderable num- 
ber of men, who bring it into the city in leathern fkins made water 
tight, and thrown acrofs the back of camels and affes. The women 
and children of the poorer clalTes, who cannot afford to purchafe the 
water thus procured, although it is fold at a very cheap rate, repair 
to the river to feek their fupply, which they carry on the head in 
large earthen pitchers, with great eafe and dexterity, and, in fome 
inftances, with a confiderable portion of grace. 

The inhabitants of Grand Cairo, like thofe of the other cities and 
towns of Egypt, are a mixture of Arabs, Copts, or ancient Egyptians, 
Greeks, Armenians, Turks, and Mamelukes. The Arabs are con- 
sidered as by fat the moft numerous clafs, which is indeed the cafe 
in every part of Egypt. The number of the Chriftian refidents is 
very inconfiderable. Arabic, which is the language of the country, 
is almoft exclufively fpoken at Cairo, the Copts, the Aborigines of 
Egypt, having, through difufe, almoft entirely loft their own lan- 
guage. It is true that their priefts, in the performance of the mafs 
and other religious ceremonies, employ Coptic books ; but I was 
aflured by feveral of the inhabitants of Cairo, on whofe teftimony I 
could rely, that they are not in general acquainted with the lan- 
guage. 

The Arab inhabitants of Cairo are a very active race, well propor- 
tioned, and of a (lender make. In all the laborious occupations the 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 373 

females of the inferior clafs take an active part, and have a dark, fal- 
low complexion, with features calculated to excite difguft. They 
marry when very young, and have a numerous offspring ; but their 
wretched condition of life expofes their children to a great mortality. 
The appearance of the latter, and indeed of the newly born infants, 
is truly diftreffing. The countenance is fallow, flaccid, and of a 
cadaverous hue ; and the eyes afFecled by ophthalmia, to which dif- 
eafe they are fubjccl; from their earlieft infancy. They are alfo much 
expofed to mefenteric enlargements. The children, even of the fu- 
perior dalles of Europeans, fuch as merchants, fettled at Cairo, have 
a pallid and {ickly appearance, and are reared with great difficulty. 
In general the young are fwept off in great numbers by the fmall- 
pox. The frequency, indeed, of difeafe, and the great mortality 
which commonly prevails among the lower claffes of the inhabitants, 
are unqueflionably to be afcribed to the very filthy {late in which 
they live, and to the want of a proper nourifhment, which latter 
caufe affects more particularly the tender condition of the infants. 

The parade which attends the marriage ceremonies at Cairo I 
have already attempted to defcribe. The Mahomedans take one or 
fcveral wives, according to their condition, and the circumilances in 
which they are placed. 

The drefs of the men belonging to the lower clafs of Arabs con- 
{iflsof a blue cotton chemife, with a broad leathern belt fattened 
round the loins, and a white or coloured ft] awl twifted round the 
head in the form of a 'turban. They wear neither fhoes nor {lock- 
ings. Their Sheicks have a large blue checkered or plaid handker- 



374 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

chief, which hangs loofely down from one of the moulders; and wear 
flippers on the feet. 

The drefs of the women of the fame clafs is equally fimple, con- 
firming alfo of a long blue chemife, without either flippers or {lockings. 
A piece of black filk anfwers the purpofe of a veil fo effectually, that 
fcarcely any part of the face, the eyes excepted, can be feen. The 
eye-lids are blackened with a pigment made of the tefTelated ore of 
lead, which in the country is called alquifoux; and the chin is ftained 
of a blue colour. The fingers are dyed of a red or deep orange co- 
lour with the leaves of the henna ; and on the wrifts bracelets of 
coloured glafs are worn, with large rings on the fingers. The ears 
are ornamented with rings, from which pieces of money are occa- 
fionally fufpended. 

The women of a fuperior rank in life drefs nearly in the Turkifh 
ftyle. Plate XX. is intended to reprefent the full drefs of a female of 
Cairo of a better condition. At other times they wear a large black 
mantle, which in a great meafure covers the whole of the body, and 
reaches dow T n to the heels. 

Among the different articles manufactured in that city, the white 
and coloured cottons, the fhawls, and the filk and woollen handker- 
chiefs fhould be noticed, together with a variety of articles of fadlery 
and embroidery, the latter of which are executed with great talte 
and elegance. 

The faddles, holders, and pouches for ammunition, as well as thofc 
to contain the Koran, which the Mahomedans carry conftantly about 
them, are principally employed by the Mamelukes and Turks of dif- 



PL XX 





SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 375 

tmction, and are extremely handfome. The greater part of the 
laddies and holfters are covered with rich velvet, embroidered in gold 
with much neatnefs and even elegance. 

The manufacture of filken cords, which are attached to the fabre 
inftead of a belt, as well as to the pair of piftols flung acrofs the 
fhoulders, and the demand for which is very great, gives employment 
to a very considerable number of perfons at Cairo. Thefe cords are 
likewife employed by the Arab groom, or Seis, as braces to fatten the 
large loofe fleevcs of his fhirt, and prevent them falling beneath the 
elbows, the lower part of the arm being conftantly naked. 

The genuine fabre blades fold at Cairo, and which are held in the 
higheft eftimation, are very coftly. As they are however extremely 
brittle, the management of them requires particular attention. They 
are brought from Damafcus and Perfia, from the former of which 
places the beft mufket barrels are alfo procured. In the choice of 
their fabres, the Turks refident in Egypt are, as well as the Mame- 
lukes, very fanciful and capricious, but perhaps not fo much fo as in 
the felecYion of their horfes, for the purchafe and fale of which Grand 
Cairo is a great mart. If, for inftance, a horfe fhould have a fmall 
curl, or feveral curls of hair beneath the mane, or in a particular part 
of the face, the value of the animal is greatly enhanced in the eye 
of the purchafer, who is extremely circumfpeel: in his fearch after 
thefe favourite and particular marks. 

Among the articles exported to Europe from Egypt, and which 
are alfo common to Turkey, may be comprehended rice, coffee,, 
different dyes, fuch as the henna and carthamus, a variety of drugs 



376 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

and medicinal gums, raw and other filks, oil, foap, leather, &c. to- 
gether with dates, almonds, and other dried fruits. 

Of the amufements of Grand Cairo, fuch as they prefent them- 
felves without doors to all the claries of its inhabitants, the principal 
confifts in the exhibition of the almes, or dancing girls, who attract 
crowds of the populace in the Squares, ffcreets, and places of public 
refort. Thefe diffolute and abandoned females have the face unco- 
vered, which, in the countries of the eaft, is accounted in the women 
a certain indication of the moft notorious profligacy. Their attire, 
which is well calculated to difplay the form of the perfon and limbs, 
is thrown on with a moft indecent negligence. The movements of « 
thefe young females, in dancing, are rapid, and difplay a greater mare 
of pliancy and fupplenefs of the limbs, than of grace. Towards its 
clofe the dance becomes more animated, and is accompanied by ges- 
tures, motions, and contortions of the body ftill more indecent than 
at the commencement. The performance is ufually confined to two 
of thefe females ; but on particular occafions the number is more con- 
siderable. On the thumb and fore finger of each hand they wear 
the fmall cups called caftanets, much in ufe in Spain in dancing 
the fandango, with which they beat time to the found of the mu- 
fical inftruments, confifting either of a hautboy or of a kind of flute, 
accompanied by a tambourine. A concert, which is by no means 
either melodious or agreeable, follows the dance. 

This is a great fource of gratification to the people of Cairo, as well 
as to the lower claffes of the population of all the towns and villages 
of Egypt, where it feldom happens that thefe dancing girls are not 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 377 

to be met with in the'ftreets and places of public refort. The more 
refpectable of the inhabitants introduce them into their houfes, and 
even into their harems, where they give leflons of grace to the females, 
without a dread of the latter being contaminated by the notorious 
profligacy of their morals. 

The jugglers are alfo highly attractive, and perform their tricks and 
deceptions with as much dexterity as the greater part of the conjurors 
•who attend the country wakes in England. Many of thefe people carry 
about with them large ferpents of the hooded kind, on which they 
exercife their addrefs, and apparently poffefs a power of rendering them 
torpid or animated at pleafure. In addition to thefe, there are compa- 
nies of tumblers and pofture matters, who, in difplaying their feats of 
activity and addrefs, are conftantly attended by a low buffoon, the 
jack-pudding of the exhibition, whofe office it is to keep the popu- 
lace in a good humour during the continuance of the performances. 

Old Cairo, or Mefr-Attar, is fituated to the fouth of Grand Cairo, 
from which it is diftant about a mile and a half. At the time of our 
refidence in the country the buildings were in a very ruinous flate ; 
but the wharf, or landing-place, prefented a very bufy fcene, it being 
the port at which the corn and other produce from Upper Egypt, 
for the fupply of the capital, is landed. From the convenience of 
its fituation, at the fide of the Nile, it is defervedly become one of the 
principal corn markets in the country. 

Boulac, fituated on the eaftern bank of the Nile, is diftant from 
Grand Cairo, in a north-weft direction, about a mile and a half, or 
two miles, and is the principal port for veffels trading from Lower 
Egypt. Accordingly, a great abundance of corn is heaped on the 



37 8 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

ground for fale ; aad in the magazines or warehoufes a variety of 
articles of commerce are depofited. It was formerly a place of great 
extent, and very populous ; but in confequence of the devaluations 
committed by the French, the greater part of the buildings are re- 
duced to a heap of ruins. Many of them appear to have been large, 
built of {lone, and well conftructed. The fuburbs, or rather villages 
contiguous to the walls of Cairo, on the north fide, are likewife in a 
very ruinous ftate ; the buildings having for the greater part been 
mutilated and deftroyed by the French, to enable them to provide 
for the better defence of the town. 

To the fouth of Grand Cairo, and immediately adjacent to Old 
Cairo, the very extenfive aqueduct is fituated which was formerly 
employed to convey the waters of the Nile to the palace of the Pacha 
in the citadel. It has no lefs than three hundred arches ; but is 
at prefent out of repair. The French converted it, however, to a 
very ufeful purpofe, by filling up the interfaces between the arches, 
and thus rendering it a wall of defence. 

To conclude with a brief notice of the natural productions of this 
part of Egypt. The horfes, which are of the true Arabian breed, 
are diftinguimed by the excellent qualities they pofTefs, as well as by 
the fine fymmetry of their proportions. It is on thefe horfes that 
the Mamelukes and other bodies of cavalry are mounted. The 
camels and afTes are employed as beafts of burden, there not being 
any carriages in the country, with the exception of the tartavans, or 
palanquins, ufed by the Turkifli grandees and principal merchants. 
The latter of thefe animals, and the mules, are not neglected and 
defpifed, as is unfortunately the cafe in many other countries ; but 



SYJR.IA, AND EGYPT. 379 

have a very careful attendance, and are occasionally clofe fheared. 
They are larger, better fhaped, and much ftronger, as well as more 
fleet of foot, than the fame animals in the northern parts of Europe. 

The Mamelukes and Turks being the only perfons in Cairo who 
are permitted to ride on horfeback, the other inhabitants are obliged 
to have recourfe to the mules and affes. The women ride aftride 
like the men, on a broad and elevated pad, covered with a Turkey 
or other carpet. Their dark and gloomy drefs refembles that of a 
mafk in a black domino. 

The flefli of the buffalo fupplies the table with beef, which, at the 
time the pafturage fprings up, after the retreat of the waters diftri- 
buted by the inundation, is fat and good. The fmall and delicate 
cows and oxen are on a variety of accounts too ufeful to be flaugh- 
tered for food : they labour conftantly at the wheels by w r hich the 
water is conveyed to the fields and gardens. 

The goats in Egypt are remarkably fine, the females giving twice 
in the courfe of the day more than a quart of milk, to preferve an 
ample fupply of which large herds are entertained. Their ears are 
of an extraordinary length. 

The mutton which is procured at a particular feafon is good, and 
fold at a cheap rate, as are alfo the geefe, fowls, pigeons, eggs, &c. 
which are in great abundance in every part of Egypt. 

The fruits which are attainable in the different feafons, however 
plentiful, are not generally remarkable for a richnefs of flavour; and 
this obfervation applies more particularly to the peaches and apricots. 
There is an abundant produce of lemons, limes, oranges, figs, bana- 
nas, dates, almonds and pomegranates. Of thefe the lemons and 

3 C 2 



^8o TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

oranges are of a very fuperior quality, as are alfo the grapes and water 
melons, the refrefhing property of which renders them highly efti- 
mable in fo burning a climate. 

Among the vegetables may be comprehended onions, which are 
remarkably mild ; cucumbers; gourds; beets; baniers or okres ; ra- 
difhes ; coulcas, a fpecies of yams, which, when boiled, bear fome 
refemblance to the potatoe ; fpinach ; artichokes ; and the bizlejan, 
a vegetable of a purple colour and globular fhape, which appears to 
be a fpecies of the egg plant. 

In all the cultivated parts of Egypt there are abundant crops of 
bearded wheat, barley, rice, dourra, or Indian corn, lupins, lentils, 
beans, flax, indigo, and the carthamus plant. The corn is trampled 
out as in Syria, and is ground in hand mills. The bread made from 
it is good and cheap. The ovens are heated with the ftems of the 
Indian corn, the carthamus plant, and reeds. 



-» 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 38 1 



CHAPTER XVI. 

ARREST OF THE MAMELUKE BEYS PROCESSION ACCOMPANYING THE SA- 
CRED CARPET FOR COVERING THE HOUSE OF GOD AT MECCA SEVERAL 

BEYS KILLED AT ALEXANDRIA BY THE PERSONS SENT TO ARREST THEM 
—ANECDOTES RELATIVE TO THE PLAGUE CONTEST BETWEEN THE AL- 
BANIANS AND MOGRABIAN ARABS EXPERIMENT WITH THE FREEZING 

MIXTURE — SUBSIDING OF THE NILE EXCURSION TO HELIOPOLIS AND 

THE LAKE OF PILGRIMS EXCURSION TO UPPER EGYPT ; TO HALLOUAN 

' PRESENT TO THE AUTHOR OF A MUMMY TOURRAH THE CASTLE- 
ROUT AT THE IMPERIAL CONSUL'S PROCESSION FROM BOULAC CA- 
RAVAN TO MECCA PLAGUE AT ALEXANDRIA VIZIER PREPARES TO 

QUIT EGYPT MAMELUKES PRIVATELY DEPART FROM GIZA MISSION- 
ORDERED TO ALEXANDRIA AUDIENCE OF LEAVE GOLD MEDALS PRE- 
SENTED TO THE OFFICERS.. 

|f~\N our return to Cairo, on the 2lft of October, after our excur> 
f lon to Alexandria, we were not a little furprifed to find that 
eleven of the Mameluke Beys had been arretted during our abfence,. 
and were in confinement at the palace of the Grand Vizier. This, 
we were told, had been done by order of the Sultan ; and it was 
added, that the other Beys at Alexandria were to have been ar- 
retted at the fame time by the Capitan Pacha. Seals were put on 
the effects of thofe refiding at Cairo, and guards placed at their 
houfes. Within the palace of the Vizier large bodies of Arnauts- 
were on duty ; and guards patroled the ftreets in the different quar- 
ters of the town. This fudden and very important event was effected 



3S2 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

without tumult in the capital of Egypt, of which country the Mame- 
lukes had been in pofleffion nearly three hundred years, it having 
fallen under the domination of the Turks in the year fifteen hundred. 

In confequence of thefe proceedings, as we prefumed, Selim Bey, 
one of the Mameluke Beys, on the 24th, furrendered himfelf .for 
protection to Colonel Ramfay, commandant of Giza. 

The proceffion which accompanied the camel deftined to carry 
the cloth, or carpet, with which the caaba, or houfe of God, at 
Mecca, was to be covered, took place on the morning of the 29th, 
and afforded to the inhabitants of Cairo a very grand and folemn 
fpeclacle. It was preceded by the chiaous of the Vizier, who was 
immediately followed by the cadi, or judge, accompanied by great 
numbers of dervifes, with their facred banners. Next followed feve- 
ral of the Grand Vizier's principal officers, with bands of mufic, and 
colours flying. Taher Pacha, and a confiderable number of armed 
men, attended the proceffion. Green cloths, elegantly embroidered 
in gold with Turkim characters, were carried on biers. The camel 
on whofe back the facred cloth was borne, had plumes of feathers on 
the head, and over the body an embroidered green cloth. In paffim: 
through the ftreets, the inhabitants difplayed a great eagernefs to 
touch a portion of the cloth. Other camels, each of them covered 
with a plain green cloth, followed, with the boxes in which the 
treafure was to be contained. The priefts, as they proceeded, 
chaunted hymns from the Koran ; and the proceffion was clofed by 
a body of armed men on horfeback. 

Before the arrival of the French in Egypt, the facred cloth, or 
carpet, accompanied the caravan which fet out annually for Mecca ; 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 3 H 

but this arrangement, which was now renewed, had been difconti- 
nued during the laft three years. 

On the 1 ft of November a difpatch was received from Alexandria 
with the melancholy intelligence cf the death of feveral of the 
Mameluke Beys and Cachefs, who were killed in a fcuffle by a party 
of the Capitan Pacha's troops, fent purpofely to fecure them. Seve- 
ral others were wounded in the eonteft. This difaftrous circum- 
ftance having been communicated to the Britifh commander in 
chief, Lord Hutchinfon, he inftantly adopted the neceflary mea- 
fures for the protection of the furvivors, manifefting, at the fame 
time, the indignance of his feelings at this grofs and violent outrage 
on humanity. In the mean time the bodies of the deceafed were 
interred with military honours. 

Colonel Holloway and Major Hope were on the above day invefted 
with pelices by his Highnefe the Vizier, and received the medals 
which the Sultan had tranfmitted in teftimony of his approbation of 
their fervices. 

In paying a vtfit to an inhabitant of Cairo, I met with a German, 
who had fpent nine years in Egypt, and who gave me the following 
remarkable anecdote relative to the plague of the preceding year : — 
A veffel, configned to the Imperial conful at Cairo, arrived at Boulac 
from Upper Egypt, laden with fenna. The conful, having colleded 
from the crew the information that two of the feamen had died on 
the paiTage after an illnefs of twenty-four hours, and having every 
reaibn to fuppofe, from the details into which they entered, that the 
difeafe could be no other than the plague, communicated the cir- 
cumftance to a perfon high in authority in the French army at Cairo, 



384 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

requeuing that the vefTel might be put under quarantine, fince it 
would be imprudent to naffer her to depart without fuch a precau-* 
tion. This wife admonition, from a man who had been many years 
an inhabitant of Egypt, and v.hofe long experience and oblervation 
had enabled him to forefee the dreadful confequences that might 
refult from a contrary procedure, was moft unaccountably disre- 
garded, and treated with contempt. The vefTel failed, on her return 
to Upper Egypt, without any precautionary meafure having been 
adopted ; and the whole of the crew, more than twenty in number, 
with the exception of one man, fell victims to the plague on the paf- 
fage. The furvivor, dreading the reftraints which might be impofed 
on him, procured a dromedary, and fled to his own village, where a 
melancholy fcene inftantly enfued ; himfelf, the whole of his family, 
and the greater part of the population of that and the furrounding 
villages were apparently fwept off by the contagion he had thus the 
misfortune to introduce. 

The cafe of an old barber- furgeon at Cairo was alfo extremely fin- 
gular. At the very advanced age of ninety-fix years he fell a victim 
to the plague of the above feafbn. He had attained a high celebrity 
among the peftiferous patients, whom he had bled and attended from 
an early period of life. It was therefore extraordinary that he mould 
have received the infection for the firlt time at fo advanced an age, 
when it was reafonable to apprehend that, from the torpor and inac- 
tivity which muft have been generally induced in the temperament, 
he would have been lean: fufceptible to difeafe. 

It was reported at Boulac, on the evening of the 5th, that a ferious 
quarrel had taken place between the Albanians and JanhTaries. It 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 385 

proved, however, on enquiry, to have been a difpute between the 
former and the Mograbian Arabs, by whom they were accufed of 
having ftolen feveral of their boys. The interference of the JanifTaries 
was neceffary to quell the riot, the animofity of the parties having 
been fuch, that feveral on each fide were killed, and others wounded 
in the conteft. 

I rode on the 8th to Baffatee, a village diftant about five miles, in 
a fouthern direction, from Cairo. In the vicinity of this village the 
grounds were ftill moillened with the rains which had recently fallen, 
notwithstanding we had had at Cairo, which was within fo fhort a 
diftance, an almoft conftant drought. A party of fick, feventy in 
number, belonging to the Indian army, who had been left at Suez, 
arrived at Cairo about this time. They aflured me that in the courfe 
of their march through the defert, they had encountered feveral vio- 
lent ftorms, accompanied by very heavy mowers of rain, and that it 
was with great difficulty they could prevent their tents from being 
blown down. This appeared to me the more extraordinary, as the 
weather at Cairo, during the whole of the month of Oclober, and 
even to the prefent date of November, had been free from ftorms, 
and uncommonly mild and temperate, with a moderate refrefhing 
breeze in the mornings and evenings. 

Colonel Lloyd, of the 86th regiment, arrived at Giza on the above 
day, with a detachment of three hundred men, from the encamp- 
ment before Rofetta. 

On the morning of the 12th, the thermometer being at 50, I took 
equal parts of powdered nitre and fal ammoniac, and threw them 
into a veffel containing water, into which I introduced a phial filled 

3 D 



3 S6 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

with that liquid, and, finally, the thermometer. In the courfe of a 
few minutes the mercury fell to 32, the freezing point, at which it 
remained, however, a few feconds only ; when it rofe to 38, where 
it remained for fome time. Fearing that I mould not fucceed in 
the production of ice, in the prefent experiment, I withdrew the 
phial which contained the water, with a view to afcertain the degree 
of cold it had received by a communication with the freezing mix- 
ture. The refult was a painful and fmarting fenfation of the fingers, 
when applied to the phial ; and this was of fome continuance, with 
a very difagreeable fenfation of cold. 

On the evening of the 1 3th, General Stewart arrived at Giza from 
Alexandria, with a view to the arrangement of the difficulties which 
had arifen between the Turks and Mamelukes. He had been fent 
on this fervice by Lord Cavan, the commander in chief ad interim, 
General Hutchinfon having quitted Alexandria on account of ill 
health. 

On the 10th the Mameluke Beys, attended by the greater part of 
their fuites, quitted Cairo, and went over to Giza, with their baggage 
and equipages. 

About two in the morning of the 20th there was a moll tremen- 
dous ftorm of wind and rain at Cairo, accompanied by heavy burits 
of thunder, and very vivid lightning. 

I made an excurfion, on the 22d, along the banks of the Nile, to 
the other fide of the village of Attar Ennabi. The waters of the 
Kile had fallen rapidly, and in fo confiderable a degree, that the 
country was in a great meafure open. This fudden change had 
fupplied the inhabitants with ample employment ; and they w r ere 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 387 

accordingly bulled in fowing the lands, which had now received all 
the benefits of the inundation, with every defcription of corn. 

I rode on the 29th to Shubra and Damenhoor, near Beifous, where 
we had been encamped previously to our arrival at Cairo. The 
prefent month of November having been cool and moift, with fogs, 
and heavy dews in the mornings, intermittents were become very 
prevalent among the Britim troops at Giza. 

On the 2d of December a courier arrived at Grand Cairo from 
Conftantinople, which place he had left twenty-five days before. He 
was the bearer of the welcome tidings that the preliminaries of peace 
between Great Britain and France had been figned. The arrival of 
Lord Elgin in Egypt was daily to be expected, his Lordfhip having 
written by the courier to requeft of Colonel Holloway to meet him 
at Alexandria. 

On the 5th Colonel Holloway and Major Hope embarked onboard 
a germ at Cairo for Alexandria. 

In the months of November and December the foutherly winds 
w T hich ufually prevail in Egypt, having pafTed over an extenfive tract 
of country which the inundation has moiftened, render the at- 
mofphere cold and raw. During the fummer months, on the other 
hand, and more efpecially in July and Augufl, the winds from the 
fouth and fouth-eafr, in their pafTage through Egypt, are accompa- 
nied by an intenfe and parching heat which is almofr. productive of 
fuffocation. There have, indeed, been many inftances of animals 
having been fuddenly deftroyed by thefe ardent blafts of wind. 

A Tartar arrived at Grand Cairo on the /th with difpatches, the 
contents of which w r ere kept fecret. 

3 D 2 



3 88 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

A party having been made on the 12th we rode to Mataree, He- 
liopolis, and the Lake of Pilgrims, called by the Arabs Birket-el- 
Hadgi. This lake is very extenfive, having a circumference of feveral 
leagues, and is furrounded by large woods of date- trees. Beneath 
the fhade of thefe trees we halted, and partook of the refreshments 
we had brought with us : the fcene which furrounded us was infi- 
nitely agreeable and pidlurefque, the verdant banks of the lake being 
covered with numerous flocks of fheep, and herds of goats and buffa- 
loes. We crofTed the defert on our return, and parTed near feveral 
parties of wandering Arabs, whofe habitations confifted of fmall 
black tents raifed about four feet from the ground. On the plains 
of Hellai we faw the tents pitched for the caravan which was to pro- 
ceed to Mecca. 

On the 16th I went by water to the vicinity of the village of 
Hallouan, fituated in Upper Egypt, at the diftance of about five 
leagues from Cairo. To the north of Hallouan lies the village of 
Mailer, near which the firft barrier of Upper Egypt is placed. It 
eonfifts of a {lone wall, with feveral towers, which extend from the 
eaftern bank of the Nile to the mountains, 

I went on the following day to one of the baths at Cairo. I have 
already taken occafion to obferve that they are far inferior, both in 
neatnefs and convenience, to thofe of Constantinople, notwithftand- 
ing they have been praifed with fo enthufiaftic a warmth of defcrip- 
tion by M. Savary, who has, in many other parts of his work, given 
evident proofs of what can be efFe&ed by a writer poffeffing a lively 
and fervid imagination. 

I noticed at this time that there were more deaths among the 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 389 

inhabitants of Cairo than had occurred during the preceding 
months. 

On the 24th a party was made to go by water to Hallouan. The 
wind being favourable, our boat ftemmed the current, and we had 
a very agreeable fail to the village, which {lands on the fpot where 
the Mekias was originally placed, before it was removed to the ifland 
of Roudah. In the vicinity of Hallouan, which is as poor and 
w 7 retched as the generality of the villages of Egypt, w r e could find 
nothing to attract our particular notice- 

The Reis EfFendi was pleafed about this time to make me a pre- 
fent of a mummy brought from the catacombs of Saccara : the fub- 
ject appeared, on a nice infpedlion, to have been aged from fixteen to' 
eighteen years. It was inclofed within a coffin very tolerably per- 
fect, made of the wood of the Pharaoh fig or fycamore ufually em- 
ployed on thofe occafions. The lid of the coffin was ornamented 
with a variety of paintings of hieroglyphics, and other Egyptian, 
devices. 

Oh the morning of the 26th I made an excurfion to the village of 
Tourrah, diftant from Cairo about eight miles, in the mountainous 
territory bordering on the defert. A part of the wall, which com- 
mences at the bank of the Nile, to form the barrier between Upper 
and Lower Egypt, palfes near this village. I afcended the barren 
and rugged mountain on which the Mamelukes had erected a caftle, 
and had from its fummit a very fine and extenfive view of the 
weftern fide of the Nile, comprehending Cairo, and a considerable 
number of villages. The corn, newly fown, fpringing from the 



390 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

ground, diflufed over its furface a pale green tint, which, combined 
with the darker foliage of the trees and fhrubs, imparted a rich di- 
verfity to the fcene. It was more lively and animated than any I had 
hitherto feen in Egypt. 

The caftle, which had apparently been occupied by the French, 
had nothing left for its defence : even the roofs and floors of the 
different buildings contained within its enclofure had been taken 
away, to be converted into fire wood. I was inclined to afcribe this 
devaluation, not to the French, but to the Turks, who are very ex- 
pert at mutilating and deftroying, for the fake of wood for combuftion, 
whatever they can feize with impunity. This caftle is about a mile 
diftant from the Nile, and was well calculated, at the time of its 
erection, for the protection of the barrier, which has likewife two 
fmall works for its defence. 

On the fide of the Nile on which the village of Tourrah is lituated, 
the land is by no means in fo high a Hate of cultivation as on the 
weftern bank, of which we had fo fine and diftinct a view from the 
fummit of the mountain. The land on the eaflern bank confifting 
for the greater part either of rocky eminences, or of defert waftes, the 
culture is chiefly confined to the grounds bordering the river, or to the 
more favoured fpots fele&ed for the fite of the villages. 

It being the feafon of the Chriftmas holidays, I was prefent on the 
2;th at a rout given at Cairo by Madame Rofetti, wife to the Impe- 
rial Conful, at which nearly forty ladies of her acquaintance were 
affembled. They were all unveiled, and fmoked with great com- 
pofurc from the long pipes which are in fafhion in the country. Se- 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 391 

veral of them had very pretty features, although the eyes were large 
and prominent. The eye-brows were blackened with the pigment 
which I have already noticed. 

Towards the clofe of the preceding month, and during the prefent 
month of December, we experienced in Egypt a temperature which 
bore fome refemblance to winter. The fall of the leaf was, how- 
ever, chiefly confined to the vines and mulberry- trees, the other trees, 
as well as the fhrubs, preierving their foliage nearly throughout the 
year. The mortality among the inhabitants of Cairo was very great, 
notwithftanding it did not appear that any cafes of plague had oc- 
curred. The weather had been invariably foggy, with great and 
Hidden changes of the winds. The fun, in the day time, darted 
forth its powerful rays ; while the evenings and nights were cold and 
moift. From fuch a temperature, and from fuch a ftate of the at- 
mofphere, it was reafonable to expect that difeafes would be gene- 
rated ; and accordingly dyfenteric affections became very prevalent. 

At nine in the morning of the 3d of January 1 802, in confequence 
of preparations for the departure of the caravan for Mecca, a procef- 
fion from Boulac entered Cairo at the gate of Kaffim Bey. It was 
led by two hundred infantry, Mograbians, preceded by their ftandards 
and bands of mufic, and followed by their Pacha, his fuite, and led 
horfes. Next followed a file of fixty camels elegantly equipped, with 
painted faddles covered by red housings handfomely embroidered 
with filver, beads, fhells, &c. To the head of each of thefe animals 
bunches of coloured feathers were attached : feveral of them bore 
the ftandard of Mahomed ; and on others men were mounted to 
beat the kettle-drums as the procefficn advanced. ( At ±he breafte of 



392 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

the camels were fattened large bells, which made a perpetual jingle 
as they moved along : the body and legs were fpotted and ftained 
with the henna. Three men, fantaftically drefTed, amufed the fpec- 
tators by their abfurd tricks and extravagant geftures ; while a San- 
ton, or Egyptian faint, preceded the camels on horfeback, naked, 
and with a collar of beads round his neck, to which feveral bells 
were alfo appended. As he rode he threw his body into a tremu- 
lous, convulfive motion. This party was accompanied by a man 
enclofed in a fmall box, refembling a part of the apparatus of our 
puppet-fhows, covered with red cloth, feathers, and other fantaftical 
ornaments. 

The proceffion was clofed by a file of fixty camels, carrying the 
prepared fkins which were to contain the water. On the back of 
one of thefe camels was placed a clufter of the lofty branches of 
orange, lemon, fycamore, and other trees. Frequent difcharges of 
mufketry were made, and every other demonftration of joy mani- 
fefted by the inhabitants, as the proceffion moved through the ftreets 
of Cairo, 

The charge of the caravan had been given by the Vizier to one 
of his fuite, Ofman Bey, late matter of the ceremonies. He now 
aflumed the title of Emir Hadgi, or Prince of the Caravan; and held 
an appointment of confiderable value and importance. On the pil- 
grimage to Mecca, which occupies a fpace of forty days, the property 
of all thofe who die falls to the inheritance of the Emir Hadgi. 

The Ramazan commenced on the 5th at fun fet, and was an- 
nounced at Cairo by repeated difcharges of artillery, mufketry. and 
piftols, 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 393 

On the morning of the 6th, a party having been made, we croffed 
the Nile, with our horfes, to Giza, and rode to a village called Me- 
nawarr, at a fmall diftance from Saccara. The country through 
which we pafled had aflumed a cheerful afpeci from the corn which 
was every where fpringing from the earth. 

The Vizier having requefted to fee the officers of the miffion dur- 
ing the continuance of the Ramazan, we paid him a vifit on the even- 
ing of the Qth, and were entertained with coffee, flierbet, and other 
refrefliments. The reception we received from his Highnefs was 
highly civil and gracious. 

During the Ramazan, and the feftival of the Biram, by which it is 
followed, the ftreets of Cairo are illuminated in the evenings, but 
not with fo grand an effect as at Conftantinople. The mofques and 
minarets were, however, on this occafion, handfomely lighted up 
with variegated lamps, difplaying a variety of very pleafing figures. 

Very diftreffing accounts from Alexandria were received at Cairo 
on the 1 7th, relative to the plague, which was faid to rage with fo 
much violence among the Sepoys, that they had been ordered to 
Aboukir, to diminifli the chance of the infection fpreading among 
the other troops. Dr. White, at that time employed with the Indian 
army, who had maintained with great obftinacy an opinion that the 
plague is not infectious, had at length been fatally convinced of the 
danger refulting from the erroneous doctrine he had fupported. Hav- 
ing been attacked by very fufpicious fymptoms, he had written to 
General Baird to be relieved, expreffing the ftrongefi apprehenfions 
of the perils which furrounded him. It will be feen in the hiliorical 
account of plague, that this unfortunate man fell a victim to the ab- 



394 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

iurd theory he had endeavoured to eftablifh, and to the experiments 
he tried with a view to its fupport. 

On the morning of the 19th, Lord Cavan, accompanied by Mr. 
Stratton, fecretary of legation, arrived at Giza. His Lordfhip was 
received by the Britifh troops encamped there with a falute of nine- 
teen guns. The Pacha of Cairo, late Kia to the Capitan Pacha, 
arrived at the fame time, and encamped with his troops near Boulac. 

On the 20th, in the afternoon, Colonel Holloway, and Majors 
Hope and Cookfbn, of the royal artillery, arrived at Kaflim Bey from 
Alexandria. In the evening Lord Cavan and Mr. Stratton had au- 
diences of the Vizier. 

On the 20th the Pacha of Cairo made his public entry into that 
city. 

The Mamelukes removed their encampment on the 24th, to the 
fouth of Giza ; and on the following day the Vizier's tail was fent 
forward to be fixed to the north of Cairo, where his encampment 
was immediately to be formed, with a view to the arrangements 
which were to be made preparatorily to his Highnefs quitting Egypt, 
on his return to Conftantinople, by the route of Syria. 

On the fame day, the 25th, the Mamelukes, whofe numbers were 
conjectured to amount to about three thoufand, privately quitted 
Giza, and fet out for Upper Egypt. It was greatly to be apprehended 
that a civil war would be the refult of this defection, as the negoci- 
ations which had been commenced with a view to the reconciliation 
of the Turks and Mamelukes were thus thwarted in their intention. 
So fudden and extraordinary a movement, indeed, gave reafon to 
conjecture that they had entirely failed. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 395 

In the evening the Turks were bufily engaged at Boulac in load- 
ing germs with guns, ammunition, and every defcription of ftores, 
for the fervice of the detachments which were ordered to proceed 
inftantly to Upper Egypt, in purfuit of the Mamelukes. 

On the 20th Colonel Holloway gave notice, that the miffion 
mould hold itfelf in readinefs to embark for Alexandria on the 
fhorteft notice. 

It was reported, on the 28th, that two men had died of the plague 
in the Britifti encampment at Giza. 

Lord Cavan and fuite, and Mr. Stratton, fecretary of legation, 
were on the 29th inverted with pelices by his Highnefs the Vizier, 
of whom they took leave. 

On the 30th General Stewart left Giza to proceed to Alexandria, 
and thence to England. Lord Cavan and fuite, with Major Cook- 
fon, quitted the above place on the morning of the 31 ft, under a 
falute from the garrifon. 

Colonel Holloway, and the officers of the miffion, having had, on 
the 3d of February, agreeably to appointment, an audience of his 
Highnefs the Vizier, to take leave, previoufly to their departure from 
Egypt, gold medals were prefented to fuch of the officers as had not 
already received them, in teftimony of the approbation of the Sultan 
for the fervices they had rendered. On this occafion coffee and other' 
refrefhments were ferved according to the oriental cuftom. 

The labours of the Britifh military miffion adting with the Turkifh 
army, drew at length towards a conclufion, after a feries of painful, 
haraffing, and critical events, many of which cannot, from obvious 
motives, meet the public eye. The patience, forbearance, and cir- 

3 E 2 



39 6 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

cumfpecYion of the individuals engaged in this long and perilous fer- 
vice, were manifefted on a variety of trying occaiions, which required 
all the energy inherent in the Britifh military character. 

I cannot, in juftice and gratitude to his Highnefs, omit mention- 
ing, though it favours a little of egotifm, that the Vizier, on this 
occafion, did me the honour to exprefs his acknowledgments and 
thanks in a letter of recommendation which he fent me, to be deli- 
vered to the Englifh ambaiTador, Lord Elgin, at Conftantinople, for 
the medical affiftance which he, as well as many of his people, had 
received during our connection with his army. 

The route from Jaffa, in Syria, to Grand Cairo, comprehending 
the pafTage acrofs the defert, as it was performed by the army of the 
Grand Vizier, and the Britilh military miffion, will be found in the 
map which accompanies the text. 



I 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT, 



397 



CHAPTER XVII. 

PLAGUE BREAKS OUT IN THE BUILDINGS OCCUPIED BY THE BRITISH MIS- 
SION DEPARTURE OF THE JANISSARIES DEPARTURE OF THE VIZIER 

■ — EXCURSION UP THE NILE SITE OF THE ANCIENT CITY OF MEM- 
PHIS REMAINS OF- THE MEKIAS DEPARTURE FROM CAIRO OBSER- 
VATIONS ON THE RISE AND FALL OF THE NILE. 

HP'HE Biram: commenced on the 3d of February at fun-fet, and 
was announced by a falute from the citadel, together with dis- 
charges of mulketry in the different quarters of the town. 

On this day we had an unfortunate accident. The Choarbagi, 
an officer of Janiflaries, whofe cafe I have defcribed in the Medical 
Journal, died of the plague within the buildings occupied by the 
Britifh miffion. The account of his death, and the circumftances 
by which it was accompanied, were tranfmitted to the Britim com- 
mander in chief, previoully to the departure of the miffion for Alex- 
andria. 

On the morning of the 4th, at ffin-rife, the gun& of the citadel, 
and of the different forts in the vicinity of Cairo,, were difcharged, to 
celebrate the Biram, during the continuance of which three dis- 
charges of artillery and mufketry are made daily, in the morning, at 
noon, and at fun-fet. In the courfe of the three days which are 
thus dedicated to feftivities of every defcription, as a relaxation from 
the fevere penalties of the Ramazan, the Arabs and Turks eftg&gei 



39 3 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

in fervile capacities go from houfe to houfe to folicit bock/Jij/Jz, or 
money, of their employers. 

Colonel Holloway and Major Hope left Cairo for Alexandria on 
the Oth. On account of the recent death of the officer of Janif- 
faries, who fell a victim to plague, the detachments were to remain 
at Cairo until further orders. I learned with much fatisfa&ion that 
the JanhTaries who were in the chamber of the deceafed were all 
well. 

The Janiflary Aga, with the JanhTaries under his command, 
quitted Cairo at this time for Constantinople. The Vizier was to 
take the field on the Qth ; and was to quit his encampment near 
Cairo in the fpace of fifteen or twenty days. The Turks Hill con- 
tinued to fend fupplies of troops, {lores, and ammunition into Upper 
Egypt, to be enabled to counteracl: the defigns of the Mamelukes. 

On the gth I rode to the Vizier's encampment. A part only of 
the troops were on the ground. It was announced to be the inten- 
tion of his Highnefs to march in the courfe of three or four days 
with about five thoufand of his troops, leaving the others, fifteen 
thoufand in number, in Egypt, under the charge of the Pacha of 
Cairo. 

On the 1 1th a kampfin wind from the fouth-weft threw up im- 
menfe clouds of duft, which kept the atmofphere in a hazy {late 
throughout the day, and produced an oppreffive heat, with great 
irritation of the eyes. The Turkifh troops were employed in form- 
ing a camp on Golden Ifland. 

Early in the moaning of the 1 3th the Vizier marched from his 
encampment, fituated without Cairo, near the villages of Izaoui and 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 399 

El-Mini, to Mattareah, where it was the intention of his Highnefs 
to halt for the remainder of the day ; and to proceed afterwards on 
his route to Conftantinople, by Belbeis, El-Hanka, Korin, Gaza, He- 
bron, Jerufalem, &c. penetrating through Syria by Aleppo and Da- 
mafcus. 

The fky was fo much overclouded on the 14th, that the fun was 
completely obfcured, a circumftance which is very unufual in Egypt, 
but from which this favourable confequence refulted, that the tem- 
perature of the air was cool, refreming, and highly agreeable. 

A party having been made for the 15th, we fet out early in the 
morning from Fort Ibrahim, in a covered boat, and failed up the 
Nile, with a frefh breeze from the north-eaft, to Bederaftieen, a vil- 
lage diftant from Cairo about fourteen miles, fituated oppofite to 
Halouan. We landed, and walked to the village, and thence to 
Metterhenna, about two miles from the fpot at which we landed. 
Metterhenna is a wretched village, which has nothing remarkable in. 
itfelf, but which is well deferving of a vifit on account of the tradi- 
tion which fixes it on the fite of the ancient city of Memphis, cele- 
brated in hiftory for the arts and fciences which flourimed there with 
fo much fplendor, and for the wealth and munificence of its inhabi- 
tants. This renowned city was, it is faid, founded by Uchoreus, 
who named it after his daughter. The latter was the wife of Nilus, 
from whom the Nile has taken its name," and to whom Ihe bore a 
fbn called iEgyptus. From this offspring the country derived the 
name of Egypt. 

Metterhenna ftands nearly eaft of the village of Saccara, from 
which it is diftant two or three miles, and from the pyramids fix or 



4 oo TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

feven. In its vicinity, and more particularly on the north and north- 
eaft fides, feveral fragments of granite, oh which hieroglyphics were 
infcribed, were lying on the ground. Thefe mutilated fragments 
appeared to be portions of columns of large dimenfions, and of dif- 
ferent kinds of architectural ornaments. ( On the eaftern fide of the 
village extenfive and high mounds of rubbilh ran parallel, north and 
fouth. It is deferving of remark that in every part of Egypt thefe 
confiderable mounds of rubbilh point out the lite of an ancient town 
or city. On the outer fide of thofe fituated to the eaft ward of Met- 
terhenna we found the veftiges of a wall of great thicknefs, and evi- 
dently a work of high antiquity. It w T as conftructed in luch a way 
as to bear a ftrong refemblance to the decayed walls I had already feen 
at Constantinople, and in the vicinity of Alexandria, the latter of 
which has been conjectured to have belonged to the building that 
contained the library of Ptolemy. The method which was em- 
ployed by the ancients was to place parallel layers of bricks in the 
wall, which, in this inftance, was built of a calcareous ftone, not 
unlike in its appearance to the fame kind of ftone found on Mount 
Mokattam, whence it was probably brought. The bricks were in fo 
friable a ftate as to refemble mafles of cinders. 

Infhort, from the different objects which we met with atMetter- 
henna we were ftrongly inclined to give due credit to the veracity of 
the hiftorians who have fixed the fite of Memphis on this fpot. The 
fragment of the wall, the remote antiquity of which could not be 
queftioned for a moment, by any one who had vifited other antique 
monuments of the fame defcription, and the date of which has been 
well afcertained, was almoft a decifive proof. To this I may add 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 401 

the portions of granite columns infcribed with hieroglyphic charac- 
ters, the immenfe mounds of rubbifh thrown up in feveral directions, 
and, more efpecially, the relative fituation of the fpot with the pyra- 
mids of Saccara. Being extremely defirous of afcertaining the fite 
of this ancient city, I made at different times, by the msans of my 
interpreter, the minuteft enquiries among the Arabs of all the villages 
through which I palfed ; but could never coiled: the fmalleft infor- 
mation relative to the place which Monfieur Savary calls Menf, and 
which he, very fancifully, fixes on the lite of Memphis. 

The great numbers of lofty date-trees which furround Metter- 
henna, and which had been fo planted as to form a variety of pleafing 
groves, together with the fine plantations of corn, flax, and other 
produce, on which the indultrious inhabitants had bellowed great 
and particular attention, were infinitely agreeable in their effect to 
our party, who had been fo long accuflomed to a painful refidence at 
Grand Cairo, amidlt the dull: and fcotching heats. I purchafed for 
a few paras a morfel of an Egyptian idol ; and carried away with me 
a fpecimen of the calcareous {tone employed in the conftruclion of 
the wall, together with a fmall fragment of one of the granite co- 
lumns. In returning to our boat at half palt three in the afternoon, 
the Sheick of the village of Bederafheen in vited us to take coffee and 
other refreshments. We did not reach KalTem Bey until nine in the 
evening, our return having been fomewhat retarded by the wind, 
which blew from the north-eaft quarter, towards which we had to 
direct our courfe. 

On the bank at the mouth of the canal which leads from the Nile 
to Halouan we obferved a ftony furface, the veftige of a building an- 



4 o2 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, ' 

eiently ere&ed on the fpot. We conjectured that it might be the 
remains of the Mekias, which was originally placed at Halouan, and 
afterwards removed to the ifland of Roudah. 

On the morning of the 18th inftru&ions were received from Co- 
lonel Holloway at Alexandria to quit Cairo, in confequence of which 
we were all occupied in preparing for our departure. In the courfe 
of the day our men were embarked on board of germs ; and it was 
expected that we mould be enabled to quit the capital of Egypt on 
the enfuing morning. I profited by the little leifure which was af- 
forded me, and went to Giza to view the collections of antiquities 
brought from Upper Egypt by Mr. Hamilton and feveral other 
amateurs. 

I fhall now give the refult of my obfervations on the rife and fall 
of the Nile, from the time of my arrival at Cairo to the prefent date, 
with a hope that the intereft they will excite will be equal to the 
pains I beftowed on them. 

On the 16th of July 1801, I nrft vifited the Mekias or Nilometer, 
fituated at the fouthern extremity of the ifland of Roudah near Old 
Cairo. The Arab who attended this place informed me that the Nile 
had begun to rife about the 28th or 2gth of June ; fmce which time 
it had rifen two piques and a half. The rapid manner in which the 
river rofe induced him to believe that there would be an abundant 
Nile this year. 

I copied the following infcription placed over the door of the 
Mekias : 

L'an 9 de la Republique Francaife, et 1215 de l'Egire, 30 mois 
apres l'^Egypte conquife par Bonaparte, Menou, general en chef, a 
repare le Mekias. 



syria, and Egypt. 4 o 3 

Le Nil repondoit, dans les bafles eaux, a 3 coudees 10 doigts de la 
colonne le 10 me. jour apres le folftice de Fan 8. 

II a commence a croitre au Caire le l6me. jour apres le meme 
folftice. II s'etoit eleve de 2 coudees 3 doigts au deftus du fut de la 
colonne le ] 07 me. jour apres ce folftice. 

II a commence a decroitre le 115 me. jour apres ce folftice. 

Toutes les terres ont ete inondees. Cette criie extraordinaire de 
14 coudees 1/ doigts fait efperer une annee tres-abondante. Le fut 
de la colonne eft de 1 coudees. 

La coudee eft de 54 centimetres. 

Elle eft divifee en vingt quatre doigts. 

TRANSLATION. 

In the ninth year of the French Republic, and of the Hegira 1215, 
at the expiration of thirty months after the conqueft of Egypt by 
Bonaparte, the Mekias was repaired by Menou, commander in chief. 

When the waters were at the loweft, on the loth day after the 
folftice of the year 8, (commencement of July ] 800) the Nile ftood 
on the column at the height of three cubits, ten digits. 

It began to rife at Cairo on the 1 6th day after the above folftice. 
On the 107th day after the folftice it had rifen two cubits, three 
digits above the fhaft of the column. On the 1 1 5th day after the 
folftice it began to decreafe. 

All the lands were inundated. This extraordinary rife of fourteen 
cubits, feventeen digits, gives every reafon to conjecture that the year 
will be very abundant. The lhaft of the column is in height fixteen 
cubits. 

3 F 2 



4 04 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

N. B. A French cubit (coudee) is nearly 22 inches and one-Hxth 
of an inch Englifh. 

A digit (doigt), the twenty-fourth part of a cubit, is about eleven- 
twelfths of an inch Englifh, that is, ] 3 digits make about one foot 
Englifh. 

It is faid that the Delta in the fpace of 3284 years has rifen 14 
cubits. Savary obferves that the ftandard of abundance, in the rife 
of the Nile, is 18 cubits. 

July 23. Since the lOth inftant, the Nile has rifen 12 inches. 

Auguft 3. For fome days paft the Nile has rifen from 12 to 13 
inches daily. 

Auguft 5. The Nile water is become extremely thick, and has 
acquired an ochry colour. It is unfit for ufe, until the earth is depo- 
fited ; for which purpofe the water is put into porous earthen jars, 
called by the Arabs birdack, made in Egypt. The conflant evapo- 
ration through the fides of thefe veffels renders the water extremely 
cool and pleafant. 

Auguft Q. The canal called the Prince of the Faithful, which runs 
through Grand Cairo, was opened on this day with the ufual cere- 
mony. See the defcription of this ceremony, page 331 of the Journal. 

Auguft 18. The Nile rifen to the mark 10 cubits 10 digits, fo as 
to cover half the capital of the column. 

September 1. The Nile rifen to the mark 17 cubits, which co- 
vers nearly the whole of the capital. The Nile rofe 9 feet during the 
month of Auguft. 

September 18. Nile rifen to the mark 17 cubits 13 digits. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 



405 



September 19. 



Nearly the whole of the illand of Roudah is inun- 



dated. 



September 21. 
September 23. 
September 25. 
September 27- 
September 29. 
O&ober 2. . 



Nile rifen to the mark 17 cubits 10* digits. 

Ditto - - 17 cubits 1 8 digits. 

Ditto - - 17 cubits 21 digits. 

Ditto - - 17 cubits 23 digits. 

Ditto - - 18 cubits 1 digit. 

Ditto - r 18 cubits 4 digits. 



Which was the utmoft height of the Nile during the year 1801. 

The Nile began to fall about the 8th or gth of October at Cairo, 
but earlier at Rofetta. 

It is obferved by the inhabitants, that if the wind continues north- 
erly at the time when the Nile is at the higheft, it is a very favour- 
able circumftance, as by this means the Nile is kept high for feveral 
days, fometimes for ten or fifteen, with but a fmall diminution of its 
waters, and the land receives all the benefit of the moiflure. But 
on the contrary, mould the wind be weflerly, and blow flrong, it is 
extremely unfavourable ; as, in this cafe, the Nile is feen to fall ra- 
pidly, and the land prevented from receiving the necefTary moiflure 
from the waters of the inundation. ' 

An inhabitant of Cairo, long refident in Egypt, affured me, that 
the Nile of the preceding year was the higheft known for thirty 
years paft. However, this year, 1801, it rofe one digit higher. 



4C>6 



TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 





Nile fallen 


in the whole lince 




Column in 






8th Oaober. 






the Mekias. 




Cubits 


Digits. 


or, 


Feet. 


Inches. 




Cubits. 


^ 

Digits. 




















1801. 


— — 
















oa. 24. . . 





5 


or, 




. T 

4f 


f Which marks upon the") 


17 


23 


Nov. g. . . 


] 


o 
o 




o 
a 


5§ 


{_ column in the Ivickias J 


i fi 


OA 


13. . . 


2 


4 




3 


11| 




16 





15. . . 


2 


10 




4 


6 




15 


4 


22. . . 


3 


15 




4 







14 


13 


30. . . 


4 


19 




8 


lOf 




13 


9 


Dec. 8. . . 


5 


(j 




9 


7\ 




12 


22 


14. . . 


5 


14 




10 


2| 




12 


10 


22. . . 





2 




11 






12 


2 


27. . . 


6 


6 




1 J 


J 2 




11 


22 


1802. 


















Jan. 3. . . 


6 


18 




12 


4^ 




1 1 


6 


10. . . 


7 







12 


10 




11 


4 


17- . . 


7 


7 




13 


4H 




10 


21 


24. . . 


7 


14 




13 


10^ 




10 


14 


31. . . 


7 


20 




14 


4 




10 


8 


Feb. 7- • • 


8 







14 


8 




10 


4 


14. . . 


8 


4 . 




15 




Since the 8th Oft. 1801. 


10 






From the foregoing ftatement and table it will be perceived, that 
the Nile rofe, during the year 1801, about twenty-feven feet one 
inch ; and that it fell fifteen feet from the 8th October, 1 801, to the 
14th February, 1802, when I was about to leave Cairo on my way 
to Alexandria, and from thence to England. The mud depofited 
by the Nile on the furface of the country during the inundation, is 
of a blackifh, or deep lead colour ; but, when dry, becomes of a 
lighter, or yellowifh brown colour. It being compofed of a large 
proportion of argillaceous earth, the furface of the country forms 
itfelf into deep cracks, or fiffures, as it dries : I collecled fome of this 
mud for the purpofe of future examination, and mail, on its arrival, 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 407 

fubmit it to a careful analyfis. A depth of from eight to ten inches 
of this mud, the effect of the laft inundation, was feen in feveral 
level places ; but this earthy matter contracts fo much in drying, 
that the depth of new furface, when perfectly dry, does not probably 
amount to more than four or fix inches. The French have analyfed 
this mud, and have given the refults of their obfervations upon it. 
The following analyfis was made by Monfieur Regnault. 
In 1 00 parts the mud of the Nile was found to contain 
1 1 of water, 

9 of carbon, 

6 of oxyd of iron, 

4 of filex, 

4 of corbonate of magnefia, 
1 8 of carbonate of lime, 
48 of alumine. 

Total 100 parts. 

The water of the Nile, when deprived of its earthy matter, by 
ftanding at reft in jars, is very pure, and agreeable to drink, and will 
keep good a long while. I kept a quantity of it feveral months in 
an open velTel, and it was equally good as at firft. 



TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

VOYAGE ON THE NILE PROM CAIRO TO ROSETTA CANAL OF MENOUF-j- 

CRUEL INSTANCE OF DEVASTATION BY THE TURKS DANGERS ATTEND- 
ING THE PASSAGE DOWN THE NILE DAHROOT CEMETERY DEATH 

OF THE SHEICK WRETCHED STATE OF THE INHABITANTS ARRIVAL 

AT ROSETTA PLAGUE AMONG THE ENGLISH TROOPS AT ROSETTA 

SOME ACCOUNT OF THE PORT AND HARBOUR FORT JULIEN HUNTING 

OF THE OSTRICH BUILDINGS AT ROSETTA POPUBATION BAZARS 

WHARF ANIMALS INDIGENOUS TO THIS PART OF EGYPT — FISH MA- 
NUFACTURES GARDENS MORASSES DISEASES PLAGUE RAGES AT 

ROSETTA THE MISSION EMBARK FOR ALEXANDRIA LAND ON THE 

PENINSULA LEADING TO ALEXANDRIA, WHERE THEY PERFORM QUA- 
RANTINE SEPOY TRIED BY A COURT MARTIAL FOR SUFFERING ARABS 

TO ESCAPE FROM QUARANTINE CASES OF PLAGUE IN THE LAZARETTO 

MISSION RELEASED FROM QUARANTINE FESTIVITIES IN COMMEMO- 
RATION OF VICTORIES TEMPLE OF DIANA— CATACOMBS AND BATHS 

OF CLEOPATRA. 

> 

"f \7E quitted Grand Cairo on the 19th of February, at eleven in 
the morning, and having embarked in our germs for Rofetta, 
got under way without lofs of time. Before we had reached Boulac, 
one of our germs unfortunately ran aground, Co as to delay us for 
fome time. At two in the afternoon we parTed Boulac, with a fine 
breeze from <^ e f° utn ~ we ft ; anQ< at midnight were at the entrance 
of the canal of Mcnouf, ^here we brought to in confideration of the 
narrownefs of the canal, and the difficulty of its navigation in the 
night time. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 4 c 9 

At half paft four in the morning of the 20th, we got under way, 
and, as the current was rapid, made a confiderabie progrefs, notwith- 
ftanding the wind was fcanty. The canal is Terpentine, and takes a 
great variety of directions, with a breadth that in no part exceeds 
ninety yards, and in feveral is confiderably lefs. On its banks there 
are numerous villages, the pofition of which is rendered highly agree- 
able and piclurefque, by fine groups of cedar, date, and ficcamore 
trees. The face of the country was, as we pafTed in our germ, every 
where enriched by luxuriant crops of growing corn. When we 
were abreaft of the village of Hait, diftant about a league to the 
fouth of Menouf, the huts of which it was compofed were on fire. 
We were told that the village had been vifited by a party of Turks, 
who, not content with having pillaged the wretched inhabitants, 
had fet fire to their dwellings, and who, when inverted with a fmalL 
mare of power, carry ruin and devaluation wherever they go. We 
pafTed Menouf at nine o'clock, with a fine breeze from the fouth- 
weft ; and at eleven arrived at Naddir, a village fituated on the eaft- 
ern bank, at the junction of the canal with the Rofetta branch of 
the Nile. We were there obliged to bring to, and wait the arrival 
of the hindmoft germ, which, having been frequently aground, had 
been confiderably delayed. Indeed, the Arabs by whom fhe was 
navigated, feemed to be quite ignorant of the management of the 
veffel ; and this may be in fome meafure accounted for, by the 
circumftance of their having been preffed into this fervice by the 
Turks at Cairo. We were deeply embayed off Naddir; and it 
blowing a ftrong gale from the weft-fouth- weft, were prevented 
from getting out until feven in the evening, when the wind fell, and 

3 G 



4 io TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

fiiifted to the north-weft. The evening was clouded over, with fre- 
quent fqualls, accompanied by lightning ; and the fmaller of our 
germs, being badly manned, frequently got aground, infomuch that 
we were obliged to come to an anchor off the village of Caffagos, 
diftant from Naddir from eight to ten miles. The hindmoft germ 
had been fo frequently aground, that it became leaky, and did not 
reach us until eleven at night, although the fmall cangar, or boat, 
had been difpatched to her affiftance. 

At five in the morning of the 21 ft we got under way, with a brifk 
gale from the fouth-weft. In confequence, however, of the difficul- 
ties the fmaller of the germs had to encounter in getting out, we 
were obliged to bring to oppofite the village of Amaroufe, on the 
caftern fhore, and diftant from CarTagos five or fix miles only. In 
failing down the Nile, the ferpentine forms the river aflumes in fo 
many directions, and the confiderable number of fand banks which 
are interfpcrfed, render its navigation difficult and perilous, more 
particularly when there is a ftrong breeze. Our dangers were en- 
hanced by the unfkilfulnefs of the boatmen, who fcemed ignorant of 
their profeffion, and who had to manage veffels ill calculated for the 
undertaking. On the hindmoft germ coming up, we proceeded at 
feven in the evening, with a very moderate breeze from the weft- 
north-weft, which occafionally died away in the courfe of the night, 
fo that we failed and drifted alternately. 

On the morning of the 22d, at half paft feven, we paffed Foua, 
with a fmart breeze from the fouth-weft, and at nine in the evening 
arrived off Dahroot, a village fituatcd on the weft bank of the river, 
where we anchored, to wait for the germs which had not yet come 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 411 

up. Dahroot is diftant about fix miles from Foua ; and faces ano- 
ther village on the eaftern bank, called Sindiy-Whoun. It is more 
refpectable than the generality of the villages of Egypt, the houfes 
being conftrucled of burned bricks, and of a moderate height. Many 
of them were uninhabited, at the time of our arrival ; and the vil- 
lage, according to every appearance, but thinly peopled. It appears 
to have been formerly a place of fome importance, being provided 
with a large cemetery, the tombs contained in which are of a circu- 
lar form, and conftrucled of bricks.. 

We went on more, and were concerned to find that the meick of 
the village had been unfortunately drowned a few hours before. The 
women were all affembled in front of the houfe of the deceafed, 
bewailing his lofs, and uttering the moft difmal fhouts and cries> 
according to the eaftern cuftom, on the deceafe of any one of the 
inhabitants, and at the time of the performance of the funeral obfe- 
quies. 

The bazars at Dahroot were very ill fupplied, what they contained 
being chiefly confined to dates and fugar-canes. The dwellings of 
the inhabitants, who were nearly naked, were filthy in the extreme ; 
and to this fource of difeafe, which may unqueftionably be confidered 
as one of the remote caufes of plague, may be fuperadded the fpare J 
and unwholefome diet on which, the Arabs fubfift, together with the 
cuftomary employment of the women and children, whom neceffity 
obliges to collect the dung of animals for fuel. Perceiving that we 
were Englifh, the natives brought to the germs fowls, geefe, wild 
ducks, pigeons, eggs, and bread of a good quality, all of which ar- 
ticles were purchafed at moderate prices,. 

3 G. 2: 



4 i2 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

The hindmoft germ came up at five in the afternoon, and we in* 
ftantly bore away with a fine breeze from the north- weft. The w ind 
becoming ftill more favourable towards the evening, we fleered a 
fteady courfe, and reached Rofetta in fafety about eleven at night. 

On the morning of the 23d I went on more, and waited on Colonel 
Barlow, commandant at Rofetta, who informed me that a ferjeant 
had recently died there of the plague, having furvived the attack only 
24 hours. Several fatal cafes of this difeafe having recently occurred 
among the Arabs, Greeks, and other inhabitants, the Colonel was 
preparing to fix his refidence without the town, the more effectually 
to fecure himfelf from infection. I was informed that fo fudden 
had been the attacks of the plague among the troops at Rofetta fome 
little time before, and their fatal termination fo fpeedy, that feveral 
of the peftiferous fubjects had died on their way from the barracks 
to the hofpital, and feveral others had fallen down in the ranks. A 
regiment of Sepoys, three hundred ftrong, had fuftained a lofs of an 
hundred and twenty individuals, comprehending the women and 
children, to whom the difeafe had been equally fatal as to the men. 

We were compelled, contrary to our inclination, to make fome ftay 
at Rofetta, in order to procure germs adapted to our voyage to Alex- 
andria, thofe employed on the Nile being of -a peculiar conftrucTion, 
which renders them unfit for a paffage by fea. 

The bogaz, or bar, of Rofetta, at which the Nile forms a junction 
with the fea, can be croffed with fafety in moderate weather only, 
and by veffels of a particular conftruction. On this account the trade 
of Rofetta is much limited. This bar is formed by fand banks thrown 
up by the conteft maintained between the rapid current of the Nile 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 413 

and the waters of the fea; and asthefe banks, or fhoals, are conftantly 
changing their pofition, the navigation over them is rendered ex- 
tremely hazardous at particular feafons of the year, more efpecially 
to thofe who are unaccuftomed to the paflage. When the wind 
blows frefh from the northward, with a high fea, by which it is ufually 
accompanied, the bar is rendered impaffable by the great number of 
fhoals which are fuddenly thrown up. Many fatal inftances of the 
temerity of the Britim feamen had occurred in the courfe of the pre- 
ceding fummer, when it is faid that upwards of two hundred indivi- 
duals perifhed in attempting this dangerous paffage. It certainly 
ought not to be undertaken unlefs by thofe who are in the conftant 
practice of navigating between Rofetta and Alexandria. The Arabs 
wait invariably for calm weather, or for a moderate breeze from the 
louth, in either of which cafes the furf is kept do wn, and the pafTage 
effected with fafety. 

On the morning of the 24th I walked to Fort Julien, diftant from 
Rofetta about five miles, and from the bogaz about a league. It is a 
fquare fort, having in its centre a blockhoufe, and may be confidered 
as a work of regular conftruction. Plate XXI. contains an accurate 
delineation of this fort, which has been frequently mentioned in the 
memorable tranfadlions of the Egyptian campaign. It contains alfo 
a reprefentation of one of the Nile boats. 

The walk from Rofetta to Fort Julien is extremely agreeable, 
through woods of dates, and gardens filled with the choiceft fruit 
trees, among the great variety of which may be comprehended the 
banana, the orange, the lemon, and the citron. 

On my return to Rofetta I faw a young oftrich which meafured 



L H TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

about three feet and a half from the back, and, when in an erect 
pofture, from feven to eight feet from the head downwards. The 
fize of thefe animals, when full grown, is enormous. In many in- 
ftances they meafure, in an upright pofition, from eleven to thirteen 
feet. Their extraordinary fpeed affords the Arab who goes out in 
purfuit of them one of his belt opportunities to difplay his activity 
and addrefs. It, indeed, feldom happens that they can be overtaken 
without the aid of greyhounds ; and for this reafon the hunters who 
are not provided with this defcription of dogs, feek a concealment 
whence they aflail the animal when within the reach of the gun. 
Their object is to procure the beautiful feathers, which find a ready 
fale, and to extract the fat, which is employed for culinary purpofes. 
It is unneceffary to fpeak of the extraordinary fize of the eggs, which 
is proportioned to that of the animal ; but I mufr. remark that in 
Egypt they form a part of the ornaments of the Turkifh mofques, 
and even of the Christian churches, from the roofs of which they are 
fufpended. 

We learned on the 25th that Colonel Holloway and Major Hope 
had, with Mr. Stratton, fecretary of legation, quitted Alexandria on 
the 15th, on their route to Conflantinople. On account of the pre- 
valence of that dreadful fcourge, the plague, we w T ere under the nc- 
ccflity of obferving much circumfpection in our intercourfe with 
Rofetta, between which place and Alexandria all commerce was pro*- 
hibited by land, by the Britifli commander in chief, and a quarantine 
of twenty-one days ftrictly enforced, in the cafe of arrivals by fca for 
the latter deftination. 

The town of Rofetta is delightfully fituatcd on the weflcrn bank 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 415 

of what was anciently denominated the Bolbitic branch of the Nile, 
but which at prefent bears its own name, at the diftance of about 
feven or eight miles from the fea. It lies to the north-weft of Cairo, 
from which it is diftant about an hundred and thirty miles, and from 
Alexandria by fea forty. Its principal commerce confifts in the car- 
riage of merchandize in general, and of European commodities in par- 
ticular, configned from Alexandria, to be conveyed to Grand Cairo, 
and thence to be diftributed throughout Egypt. It thus becomes 
the entrepot of the trade of that country ; and in this point of view is 
of confiderable importance. 

The houfes of Rofetta are conftrucled of red burned bricks, and 
are lofty, many of them having four, and even five {lories. They are 
pointed with white mortar, which gives them, when viewed from a 
diftance, an air of neatnefs, at the feme time that it renders their 
afpecl cheerful. The ftreets are very narrow. On the whole, not- 
withftanding it contains but few ftriking public edifices, Rofetta muft 
be confidered as a handfome place by thofe who have been accuf- 
tomed to the fight of mud huts, and the fandy deferts. The mofques 
and their minarets are, as well as the houfes, built with bricks, plaif- 
tered over and white-warned. In this ftyle of external decorations, 
the natives pofTefi, as well as the Turks, a peculiar excellence. 

The population of Rofetta may be eftimated at from eight to ten 
thoufand fouls ; but on a view of the great number of houfes which 
were uninhabited at the time of our ftay there, it appeared to be ca- 
pable of containing at leaft treble the number. Its internal tran- 
quillity was lefs difturbed by the French invafion of Egypt than that 
of any other place ; a circumftance which may probably have anfen 



4 i 6 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

from the milder difpofition of its inhabitants, whofe commercial in- 
tercourfe with other nations has given them a fofter polifh. 

The lively fcene I had occafion to witnefs at Rofetta, on my 
paffage through that place in the preceding month of October, 
when the Britifh troops commanded by General Baird were en- 
camped in its vicinity, had completely difappeared. The bazars 
were at that period well mpplied with European commodities; while 
at the prefent they contained no other articles except fuch as are to 
be found in all the bazars of Egypt and Turkey. The wharf on 
which the goods are landed is in length nearly a mile, and is provided 
with capacious warehoufes. This place appears moft advantageoufly 
to the traveller who has made the journey thither from Alexandria 
acrofs the defert, which brings him to the very walls of the gardens. 
It follows from this proximity of the defert, that the cultivation is 
chiefly confined to the land which extends in the direction of the 
river. The Perfian wheels employed for the irrigation of the gardens 
and grounds, are worked by cows and buffaloes. 

Immenfe quantities of w ild ducks, teals, and widgeons, hover over 
the Nile, and are caught by the inhabitants with nets : they are large 
and finely flavoured, and are fold uncommonly cheap. On the fide 
of the Delta there are numerous flocks of fine fnipes. Rabbits are 
expofed for fale at Rofetta, but are very fcarce, as is the cafe through- 
out Egypt. The mutton is good, as is alfo after the inundation the 
fteih of the buffalo, which is the only beef flaughtered for the table. 
The flocks of fheep browzc on the fkirts of the defert, in the forcfts 
of date-trees. The great dependance of the inhabitants for their fup- 
plies is on the luxuriant and fertile Delta, which pours forth its abun- 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 4x7 

dant produce to adminifler to the wants of man, and the riches of 
which will be inexhauftible fo long as the prolific waters of the Nile 
continue to diffufe themfelves over its furface. That river finds em- 
ployment for a confiderable number of fiftiermen ; but the filh it 
contains are fmall, and not held in much eftimation by Europeans. 

The manufactures of Rofetta are principally confined to the weav- 
ing of cottons, ma wis, and other articles of clothing, as well for the 
confumption of its inhabitants, as for exportation ; and to the mak- 
ing of bafkets and mats. The latter are formed of fine rulhes, are 
very neat, and are in great requeft throughout Egypt. The bafkets, 
named by the Arabs couffa, are employed for the package of rice. In 
each of thefe manufactures the native inhabitants are very expert. 

The town of Rofetta contains a mixture of Arabs, Turks, Greeks,. 
Jews, Copts, and Armenians; but the number of Chriftians, or 
Franks, is very inconfiderable. Was it entirely in the hands of the 
latter, whofe fpirit of enterprife would perhaps induce them to at- 
tempt the removal of the dangerous bar at the entrance of the river, 
it would, in all probability, become rich and flouriming, by the very 
extenfive commerce it might be thus enabled to maintain. The 
predominating influence lies, however, with the Turks, who are 
incapable of engaging in any ufeful undertaking which demands 
exertion or activity. 

The gardens to the north of Rofetta are very extenfive, and muft 
be pleafing to the admirers of pure and unembellifhed nature. Nei- 
ther order nor method has been confulted in the difpofal of the 
parts, nor are there any of thofe regular walks which are obferved 
in the gardens of Europe. The lofty date- trees, planted in thick 



418 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

clufters, afford a pleafing variety of foliage, and a new tint of colour, 
amidft the banana, orange, lemon, pomegranate, and citron trees> 
which are every where fcattered in wild diforder. The vegetable 
productions for the table are difpofed with as little regularity, and 
are intermixed with clufters of the henna, or Egyptian privet, which 
is cultivated in great abundance on account of the orange dye its 
dried leaves afford, to add to the fantaftic ornaments of the Egyptian 
women. The avenues leading to thefe gardens, and thofe by which 
they are furrounded, are very agreeable. 

In a northern direction from Rofetta there are feveral moraffes and 
fwampy grounds, which, together with the rivulets or ditches of 
ffagnant water left by the inundation of the Nile, there is every rea- 
fon to prefume muff be productive, in the fummer months, of miafma 
of the molt dangerous kind. Notwithftanding my viiit to Rofetta 
was fo early as the month of February, the ftagnant and putrid waters 
were become extremely offenfive in paffing in a particular direction 
near the town ; and as the northerly winds are the moft prevalent, 
the miafma muft, fuppoling it to. be generated by thefe caufes, be 
readily conveyed to that place, fo as to expofe its inhabitants to all 
the effects of malignant and contagious difeafes. It is probably on 
this account, among others,, that the plague is fuppofed to be more 
frequent at Rofetta than in any other part of Egypt. Elephantiafis 
is alfo a very common complaint, more particularly among the 
women. 

On the 28th, a fignal having been made for that purpofe, by the 
iteis, or mafter of a veffel ftationed exprefsly at the entrance of the 
Nile, and whofe duty it is to give notice that the bogaz is open, the 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 419 

germs laden with corn, and other productions, quitted Rofetta at an 
early hour in the morning for Alexandria. We were ftill, however, 
detained by the want of germs. 

In the mean time we learned that the brother of the Swedifh 
conful at Alexandria had died there a few days before of plague ; 
and fufpicions being entertained that the difeafe had been brought 
from Rofetta, the ftri&eft orders for the enforcement of the quaran- 
tine regulations had been hTued at the former place. 

From the preceding date to the 3d of March the weather was fo 
tempeftuous as to prevent the poffibility of the arrival of velfels at 
Rofetta, or of their departure thence. We were confequently ftill 
waiting in the anxious expectation of the germs which were to con- 
vey us to Alexandria ; and in the mean time our people were difem- 
barked on account of the ftormy weather, and lodged in a houfe in 
the town. 

I rode below the caftle on the 4th, and obferved that the bar was 
ftill covered by a ftrong furf, notwithftanding the wind had fallen, 
and the weather become very pleafant. I was concerned to hear 
that a new cafe of plague had juft been difcovered at Rofetta. The 
perfon who laboured under the attack was a Greek : he had, among 
other lymptoms, three peftikntial tumors, and died in the evening 
of the above day. 

As it was confidently reported on the 6th, that feveral cafes of 
plague occurred daily, and that the difeafe was faft gaining ground 
at Rofetta, it was a fingular fatisfaclion to us to be enabled to pro- 
cure two germs to convey us thence to Alexandria ; and in the even- 
ing our baggage was put on board. 

3 H 2 



$2o TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

At two in the morning of the 7th, we embarked ; and our germs 
having dropped down to the bar, waited for the day-light, which 
would enable them to pafs it with fafety. The wind blowing from 
a favourable point, the north- eaft, and the fea being tranquil, our 
paifage over the bogaz, at fun- rife, was very agreeable, and free from 
every appreheniion of danger. The bogaz, or bar, is in the fhape of 
a crefcent ; and is fo formed by the projection of the land on each 
fide of the river towards the fea. On the eaftern more three beacons 
are erected to direct to the entrance of the river the courfe of the 
veffels bound to Rofetta. Two diftinct paffages, fituated on the 
oppofite fides of the land, are difcernible, the one for the entrance of 
vefTels into this particular branch of the Nile, the other for their 
departure. 

At one in the afternoon we landed at the peninfula leading to 
Alexandria, where we were to perform quarantine, agreeably to the 
regulations eftablifhed for veffels arriving from Rofetta, and from the 
other places where the plague was fufpected to prevail. The greater 
part of our people remained in the germs, where they pafTed the 
night in expectation of the tents neceffary for their debarkation. 

We received our tents on the morning of the 8th, when we en- 
camped, with our people, without the walls of the lazaretto, but 
fubject, notwithstanding, to the quarantine laws. All the indivi- 
duals belonging to the miffion were, as well as the crews of the 
germs, free from fymptoms of infection. We were foon after vifited 
by our friends from Alexandria, and fupplied with whatever could 
render our ftate of confinement in any degree comfortable. Within 
the lazaretto were feveral Britifh. officers from Alexandria, and feveral 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 421 

Turks recently arrived from Conftantinople, who had been ordered 
to perform quarantine in confequence of their having refided near 
individuals who had funk under attacks of plague. 

On the above day the firft anniverfary of the landing in Egypt was 
celebrated by the Britim army. 

On the 12th one of the centinels, a Sepoy, was tried by a court- 
martial, and fentenced to be mot, for having fuffered two Arab pri- 
foners to make their efcape from quarantine. The court was com- 
pofed of native Indian officers, belonging to the Sepoy corps, with a 
Britifh officer, who a£ted as judge-advocate. The Arabs who de- 
ferted had been engaged in an attendance on fome perfons fuffering 
under plague, and confequently expofed to a great and manifeft rifk 
all thofe whom they might encounter in their flight. In the city of 
Alexandria, as well as on board the (hipping in the harbour, feveral 
new cafes of plague had occurred, and had been admitted on the 
lazaretto ground. 

Two fatal cafes of plague occurred within the lazaretto on the 
14th : one of the fubjects was a feaman, the other a private belong- 
ing to the 6 lit regiment. 

Two detachments, one belonging to the 80th regiment, the other 
to Dillon's regiment, quitted the quarantine on the 15th. 

On the l/th feveral vefTels bound to Smyrna and Conftantinople, 
failed from the harbour of Alexandria ; and on the 1 Qth an Englifh 
vefTel hove in fight from the weftward. On the latter day two plague 
patients, belonging to the regiments of Dillon and De Pvolle, were 
received in the lazaretto. 

The detachments compofing the Britifh military miffion having 



42 2 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

been found on examination to be in perfect health, we were releafed 
from our quarantine on the morning of the 20th. I took up my 
quarters with Major Cookfon, of the royal artillery, with whom I 
was to remain until my departure for Conftantinople. 

The 2lfl being the anniverfary of the day on which Britifh valour 
overcame the efforts of the French, in the ever memorable battle 
before Alexandria, by which the fate of Egypt was decided, it was 
celebrated with every demonftration of joy by the Britifh army. At 
moon the guns of the forts, and thofe of the mips in the harbour, were 
difcharged ; and this- was repeated at fun-fet, with the addition of a 
fine difplay of fky-rockets, &c. 

On this occafion the Indian army gave a fumptuous dinner to the 
Britifh commander in chief, and to all the officers, ftill in Egypt, 
who were prefent at the above glorious action, in a mofque fitted up 
for the purpofe. The perfons who were thus affembled amounted 
to an hundred and eighty, and were diftributcd at eight tables. 

I paid a vifit to the Capitana Bey, on the 22d, to requeft a paffagc 
to Rhodes, which he was fo obliging as to promife us in a corvette 
about to fail for that deftination. 

On the 23d I vifited the temple of Diana, the catacombs, and the 
baths of Cleopatra, fituatcd to the weftward of Alexandria, at the 
diftance of about two miles. The temple, which is fubtcrraneous, 
is cut out of the folid rock, and in entering it we were under the ne- 
ccffity of having rccourfe to candles. The entrance had formerly 
been very fmall and narrow, and the accefs to the temple propor- 
tionally difficult ; but in confequence of the numerous viflts it had 
latterly received, the opening had been enlarged with confiderable 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 423 

labour. Within the temple there is a fine dome hewn in the rock ; 
it has four gates, one of which ferved for the entrance, while the 
others formed niches for the tombs, or farcophagi. Thefe gates had 
been adorned with fculpture, a part of which {till remained. The 
fubftance of the rock is a calcareous {lone. The palTages and cata- 
combs, which continue beyond the temple, afford a prefumption that 
there may be more of thefe temples within. Thefe paffages were 
now, however, in many parts nearly choked up with earth, and with 
the bones of animals : but few human bones were difcoverable. In 
the vicinity of the temple we defcended into a lofty and capacious, 
cavern, conjectured to have been anciently the place in which the 
bodies were embalmed. Beiides the paffage on the land fide, there 
appears to have been originally an accefs to the temple by water, a 
fmall creek running near to its entrance in front. Such an under- 
taking as the conftruclion of a temple hewn in a rock, and provided 
with a lofty dome, could not have been accomplifhed by the ancients 
without infinite pains and labour. The fculptures over the door, 
among which are a crefcent, and a rofe in the centre, are very neatly 
executed. 



424 



TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 



CHAPTER XIX. 

DEPARTURE FOR CONSTANTINOPLE STORMY WEATHER — OBLIGED TO 

TAKE REFUGE IN THE ISLAND OF CASTEL ROSSO ANCIENT CISTENE 

SOME ACCOUNT OF CASTEL ROSSO ISLAND OF RHODES DESCRIP- 
TION OF THE TOWN AND ISLAND ANCIENT HABITATION OF THE 

KNIGHTS COLOSSUS OF RHODES ANCIENT RHODES STATE AND CUL- 
TIVATION OF THE ISLAND THE ARSENAL VILLAGES DRESS VEGE- 
TABLE PRODUCTIONS DEPARTURE FROM RHODES STANCHO TOWN 

AND ISLAND OF STANCHO POPULATION AOUEDUCT FOUNTAIN 

GAME COAST OF ANDOLIA ISLAND OF SAMOS SCALA-NOVA ARRI- 
VAL AT SCIO. 

the 24th of March we embarked on board a corvette manned 
by Greeks, which did not, however, get under way until the 
morning of the 20th, when fhe was warped out of the harbour of 
Alexandria by three large Turkifh boats. The fort at the point of 
the peninfula having fired a mot to bring us to, the anchor was 
dropped to wait for our clearance. 

On the morning of the 2/th we failed out of the harbour with 
the wind at eaft. The weather continuing moderate, and the breeze 
favourable, we made the ifland of Candia on the 2yth, diftant from 
us about fifty miles to the weftward. In this fituation we bore away 
for Rhodes. 

On the 30th at noon we had a ftrong gale from the eaft, which 
increafed fo much towards the evening, that we were obliged to 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 425 

take in nearly the whole of our fails. The gale continued during 
the night, and our little veffel laboured fo much, that we felt fbme 
apprehenfion for our fafety. 

On the morning of the 31 ft, before break of day, our captain 
having difcovered a light ahead, bore away from the land, to wait 
for the day-light, which would enable him to afcertain the courfe he 
was to fleer. He was ignorant of our real fituation, but fuppofed 
the land to be the ifland of Candia, which we had defcried before 
the gale. At day-break we drew in towards the coaft in the hope 
of finding a port ; and at length difcovered, through a thick haze, 
the bold and lofty mountains of Candia, covered with mow, together 
with a town and fmall fort. At fun fet the wind fhifted to the weft- 
ward, and we bore away to the north-eaft. In the night it became 
contrary, accompanied by a rough fea. 

Finding it impoffible, on the morning of the lft of April, to clear 
the ifland, we tacked and ftood the fame courfe as on the preceding 
day, towards the weftern coaft. At noon the wind having fhifted 
to the weftward, we bore up for the land. In the afternoon we had 
a heavy gale from, the north-eaft, which carried us confiderably to 
the weftward. 

On the 2d, in the morning, we bore away with a north-weft wind 
to the eaftward, with a view to clear the eaftern point of the ifland, 
abreaft of which we found ourfelves at one o'clock P. M. At this 
time the gale increafed in violence, with heavy mowers of rain. 

On the 3d we were driven to the eaftward by a ftrong gale from 
the north-weft, the force of which was augmented to fuch a degree 
in the evening, that the waves beat over our veffel with an impe- 



426 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

tuous fury, threatening every moment to plunge us in the dreadful 
abyfs. In this perilous fituation, drifting under our bare poles, we 
continued until the following morning at day-break, when the ftorm 
abated gradually, and we once more made fail. We fhortly after 
defcried land to the eaftward of us, and having fleered in that di- 
rection, with a favourable breeze, came to anchor at two in the after- 
noon in the bay of the ifland of Cartel Roflb, on the coaft of Afia 
Minor, to our great fatisfaction and content, after the repeated and 
violent gales we had had to encounter fince our departure from Alex- 
andria, and the imminent peril to which we had been expofed by 
that of the preceding day. 

Almoft immediately after our arrival, I landed at the town of 
Cartel RofTo, the ancient Ciflene, fituated at the extremity of the 
bay, on a folid rock, and built in the form of a crefcent. The ifland 
confifts entirely of rocks, from which the materials have been drawn 
for the conftruction of the houfes. The entrance into the bay is 
fine and romantic. In the centre and mere elevated part of the town 
there is a caftle, on which feveral guns are mounted. The ifland 
having formerly belonged to the Venetians, they had built this caftle, 
and taken fome pains to fortify the rock : the former has, fince that 
time, been rebuilt by the Turks. The inhabitants are for the greater 
part Greeks, with a few Turks. There are fcarcely any productions 
on the ifland, on the rocky furface of which a few goats and fmall 
cows browze, and pick up a fcanty fubfiftence. There is, however, 
an excellent harbour for fhipping, with a good anchorage ground, 
and a conftant fupply of frefli water, collected from the rains in 
tanks, or refervoirs, placed at the foot or at the fides of the moun- 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 427 

tains. The bland of Cartel Roflb is diftant from Rhodes about 
eighty miles, in an eaftern direction. 

On the morning of the 5 th the wind fhifted to the eaftward, and 
afforded us a favourable opportunity to proceed to Rhodes, our def- 
tined port; but our fails had been fo much fplit and damaged by the 
violence of the gales, that it required the whole of the day to repair 
them. I landed, and went into the town, the ftreets of which are 
the moft extraordinary that can be imagined, confuting of narrow 
pafTages cut out in the rock, which obliged us to afcend ftep by ftep 
from one ftone to another, in examining the different parts of the 
town. The inhabitants had a healthy appearance, with very agree- 
able features. Several caicks, and a veffel from Smyrna, were at 
anchor in the bay. 

We got under way on the 6th, at eight in the morning, with a 
gentle breeze from the eaft, which died away fhortly after, and left 
us becalmed nearly for the whole of the day between the ifland and 
the land of Afia Minor. In the evening a wefterly breeze fprung 
up, and we bore away. On the following morning the wind blew 
from the north-eaft : we defcried Rhodes foon after day-light, diftant 
from thirty to forty miles. We had fine w r eather during the day, 
but from the fcantinefs of the wind made a flow progrefs. 

On the 8th the wind had changed to the north, fo as to oblige us 
to make frequent tacks. At half paft one o'clock P. M. w 7 e anchored 
in the harbour of Rhodes, and immediately went on more to make 
our compliments to the governor. He paid us much attention, and 
procured us a houfe for our refidence during our ftay in the ifland. 
The habitation which he affigned to us was very pleafantly fituated in 

3 1 2 



428 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

the Greek town. We returned, however, on board in the evening, 
to land a part of our baggage. 

On the morning of the gth I vifited the different quarters of the 
town, which is of confiderable extent. The houfes are built of a 
white free-ftone, procured in abundance on the ifland, and are very 
neat. The ftreets, which are kept in the niceft order, are very pret- 
tily paved with marble pebbles brought from the beach, and difpofed 
with great tafte. The inhabitants are a mixture of Turks, Jews, 
and Greeks, the latter of whom are the moft numerous. A diftincl: 
quarter being afligned to each, it may be faid that there are in Rhodes 
three towns, which are accordingly thus denominated after the dif- 
ferent nations. The ifland of Rhodes is eftimated to contain about 
fifteen thoufand inhabitants, the Greeks being in every part more 
numerous than the Turks and Jews. 

One of the ftreets of the town of Rhodes, called La Rue des Che- 
valiers, contains the houfes which were formerly inhabited by the 
knights, and which are ftill in a tolerable ftate of repair, notwith- 
standing feveral of them were erected at fo early a date as towards 
the clofe of the thirteenth century. Much pains had been bellowed 
on the mafonry and other external embellifliments, among which I 
recognized, on the fronts of feveral of the houfes, the arms with the 
croffes of Jerufalem and Rhodes, ftill in a very perfect condition. 
The knights had erected a regular fortification, which, as well as the 
other works furrounding the town, is ftrong, extenfive, and well built. 
With a little labour and expence, indeed, thefe fortrelfes might be 
put in an excellent condition. 

I vifited the bazars, which were well fupplied with various com- 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 429 

modities. The inhabitants in general have a healthy look, and very 
agreeable features. The Greek and Jewifh women and children are 
pretty, but wear a very unbecoming drefs, with a large bundle of 
handkerchiefs and wrappers on the head, which have a difagreeable 
effedt. 

The town of Rhodes has two harbours ; one for large vefTels, the 
other for fmall craft. The former is fquare, and tolerably capacious, 
but open and expofed to the north-eaft and eafterly winds. Tradi- 
tion reports, that the celebrated coloffus flood acrofs the mouth 01 
the great harbour, and that between the legs of this ftupendous figure 
fhips ufed to fail. The inhabitants ftill direcl the attention of the 
traveller to the points on which its feet are faid to have refted. 

The little harbour, fituated on the north- weft fide of the other, 
and of the town, is more particularly calculated for caicks and other 
fmall craft, as the entrance to it is by a very narrow channel. The 
arfenal is fituated at the upper end of this harbour. 

Several veffels came into the harbour on the 10th, fuppofed to be 
from Alexandria. The governor having fupplied us with mules and 
muleteers, we rode to the north fide of the ifland, and proceeded to 
the fpot which was the fite of ancient Rhodes, diftant from the mo- 
dern town about four or five miles. It flood on a very lofty moun- 
tain, which we had fome labour and difficulty to afcend, and which 
required more than half an hour's exertion, through winding paths 
which led over rocks and bufhy thickets. The fides of the moun- 
tain are covered with lofty firs, oaks, and afh-trees, together with 
thick brufh wood of myrtle and maflic trees. On the fummit we 



43» TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

found the ruins of walls, and of a fort and other works, with the 
veftige of a building, which appeared to have been a monaftery. In 
each of the angles of the domes, or vaulted roofs, of the apartments, 
the croiTes of Jerufalem and Rhodes were ftill difcernible. 

From the mountain we had a fine view of the furrounding coun- 
try, which is pleafingly diverfified, confuting partly of high rocky 
grounds, the rugged furface of which contrails with the beautiful 
and extenfive vallies beneath. The elevated and rocky territory is 
in fome parts covered by a foft calcareous ftone, while in others it is 
of a fandy texture, with aggregations of round marble pebbles, fimi- 
lar to thofe found on the fea-fhore. Thefe pebbles are not only em- 
ployed for the pavement of the ftreets, but alfo of the court-yards 
and floors of the houfes, where they are difpofed with great tafte, 
and have a very pleafing effecl. 

The vallies are cultivated with great care, and yield abundant 
crops of wheat and barley, with a fmall proportion of oats. The 
vineyards are enclofed by ftone walls ; and round thefe enclofures 
there are large plantations of fig and olive-trees. In the villages 
which are interfperfed, the houfes are built of white ftone ; they arc 
fmall, but very neat. To render the fcene ftill more picturefque, 
large oaks, firs, and afh-trees, are planted on the fides of the moun- 
tains, and in the fpots the leaft fufceptiblc of cultivation. Every 
part of the ifland is fupplied with excellent water, collected from 
the fprings which the rains have formed in their defcent from the 
mountainous parts. The high lands are covered with a variety of 
fragrant herbs, which yield a delightful perfume ; and contain enclo- 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 431 

fures for the culture of the different fruits, which, as well as the 
vegetables, are of kinds fimiiar to thofe I have already noticed in 
ipeaking of Egypt and Syria. 

In palling through one of the Greek villages, we entered the 
church, which, among other very pretty decorations, contained fe~ 
veral fubjecls and figures fculptured in wood with much neatnefs 
and ability. 

The ifland abounds with hares, woodcocks, partridges, fnipes, and 
wild ducks. The breed of horfes is fmall and infignificant, the mules 
and affes being employed as beafts of burden. The cows are fmall ; 
but the breeds of fheep, goats, and pigs, are the fame as in Turkey. 

The bread is of an excellent quality ; and the wine, the produce 
of the vineyards, tolerably good, and very cheap. From the dried 
figs the inhabitants difr.il the fpirit called rackay, with the addition 
of anife feeds, and the peels of lemons and oranges, to give it a rich 
flavour. This liquor, with the aid of a firup made fimply from fugar, 
is denominated by the Italians rofolio. 

Rhodes may on the w T hole be confidered as a very falubrious, fruit- 
ful, and agreeable ifland, the feafons being never in the extremes, 
and the weather almoft invariably moderate. We had been fo long 
accuftomed to the mud huts, and to the barren and fandy deferts of 
Egypt, where, with the exception of the charming plains of the 
Delta, there was fo little to gratify the view, that our prefent refi- 
dence appeared to us almoft a paradife. 

It was now fix years fince the ifland had been vifited by the plague, 
which, at that time, however, had made a dreadful havoc. The 
inhabitants are occafionally expofed, during the hotter months, 



432 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

to the attacks of intermittent fevers, which appear to me to have 
their fource in the miafma thrown off by a fmall fpot of marfliy 
ground, and a piece of ftagnant water, on the north fide, and almoft 
contiguous to the town. The climate, however, is in general very 
healthy ; and there are among them many inftances of longevity. 

In the arfenal of Rhodes veffels are conftru&ed of fir, which is 
either the growth of the ifland, or brought from Caramania. Hav- 
ing had the affiftance of feveral Britifh and Swedifh fliip-builders of 
eminence, the workmen, who are exclufively Greeks, are become 
tolerably expert in their employment. The inhabitants of Rhodes 
pay but little attention to fiming ; and the fifti we procured there 
was but of an indifferent quality. 

Several caicks failed out of the harbour of Rhodes on the 1 2th, 
fuppofed to be bound for Marmarice. The Turkifti inhabitants 
were preparing to celebrate the Biram Courbam, which was to com- 
mence on the following day. 

I made an excurfion to feveral of the villages adjacent to the town 
of Rhodes, one of which, inhabited by Turks, called Ezgourah, is 
very delightfully fituated in the midft of oak, afh, plane, and olive- 
trees, fo thickly planted, that it appears to be in the centre of a wood. 
In its vicinity are two other villages, one of which, named Couceki- 
noh, is inhabited exclufively by Greeks ; and the other, Caudeley, by 
Jews. The former have a ftill more confiderable village, called 
Treandah, fituated nearer to the town, on the weftern fhore. In the 
environs of thefe villages much corn is produced ; and they are be- 
fides rendered very agreeable, as well by the vineyards which are in- 
terfperfed, as by the fine orange groves belonging to many of the 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 433 

inhabitants of the town, who retire to the villages during the warmer 
months, and alfo at thofe times when the plague happens to be pre- 
valent. 

The Biram Courbam, which commenced on the 1 3th, was an- 
nounced at Rhodes by difcharges from the guns of the fort. We 
paid a vifit to the governor, whofe ufage it is on this particular day 
to receive the compliments of all the inhabitants of a certain rank 
and defcription, who of courfe difplay all their finery, as is alfo the 
cuftom with the inferior claffes during this feftival. 

The inhabitants in general appear to live in great eafe. The drefs 
of the lower clafs of Greeks, as well in the town as in the villages, 
confifts of a cotton garment, which has a very neat appearance. This 
drefs is not, however, to be feen in the villages unlefs on Sundays 
and on days of feftivity : on the working days a brown jacket is 
worn, with untanned boots* The Greek women of this clafs alfo 
wear a cotton drefs ; but thofe of the town diftinguifh themfelves 
from the female villagers by the addition of a red veft and petticoat. 
The head- drefs, confifting of coloured handkerchiefs as before de- 
fcribed, is extremely unbecoming. On the veft three large rofes of 
plated metal are worn, placed one above the other. The Greeks of 
the fuperior claffes, whether males or females, are habited nearly in 
the fame way as thofe in the Chriftian fuburbs of the Turkifh capital. 

I rode on the 14th to the village of Treandah, and obferved the 
inhabitants bufied in preparing the land for the cotton, which is cul- 
tivated very fuccefsfully on the ifland. Among the vegetable pro- 
ductions I noticed beans of an excellent quality, together with arti- 

3 K 



434 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

chokes, cabbages, and cauliflowers, all good in their kinds. In 
general the cultivated grounds are very rich. 

On the 1 7th, we made an engagement with the Reis, or captain, 
of a caick, to convey us to Conftantinople, which he would not con- 
fent to do for a lefs fum than eight hundred and fifty piaftres (more 
than fixty pounds Englifh). We bound him down, however, to 
touch at the different iflands of the Archipelago which we were de- 
li rous to vifit. 

At eleven in the morning of the lQth we embarked with our bag- 
gage on board the caick, and immediately failed for Stanco, but with 
fo inconfiderable a breeze, that the crew were obliged to have re- 
courfe to the large oars, or fweeps, with which thefe veffels are con- 
flantly provided, and which are extremely ufeful in navigating among 
the iflands. We made fo little way, in fpite of every exertion, 
that it was night before we paffed Cape Crio. At day-break we 
were diftant from Stanco about fifteen miles. 

During the morning of the 20th, the weather ftill continuing 
calm, our people were again obliged to have recourfe to their fweeps ; 
but at noon the wind frefhened, and enabled us to reach Stanco, in 
the harbour of which we anchored at half paft two o'clock. We 
landed, and after having paid our refpedts to the governor, took up 
our abode in the houfe of one of the Greek inhabitants. In the 
evening the wind blew fo ftrong from the eafl-north-eaft, that our 
Reis was under fome apprehenfion for the fafety of his veffel, and 
carried out four anchors for her fecurity, the gale threatening to drive 
her on the fhore, which was to leeward. The wind was favourable 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 435 

to the profecution of our voyage ; and the Reis manifefted fo much 
impatience to leave Stanco, that we promifed to embark very fpeedily. 

The town of Stanco is defended by a caftle, and by an old fortifi- 
cation. The ftreets are narrow ; but the houfes, which are built of 
ftone, and plaiftered, with flat roofs, or terraces, are neat in their ap- 
pearance. The bazars are well fupplied with fruits and vegetables. 
The ifland produces an abundance of lemons, from which the inhabi- 
tants were at this time bufied in fqueezing the juice, to put it into 
barrels deftined for the markets of Conftantinople and Ruflia. For 
this traffic a veffel was waiting in the harbour. The wine made in 
this ifland is of an inferior quality. Stanco is the Cos of the an- 
cients ; and on this account we purchafed the feeds of the lettuce 
which bears that name, fo defervedly efteemed throughout Europe. 

The population of the ifland of Stanco is eftimated at about four 
thoufand fouls, of whom one half are Turks, and the other half may 
be confidered as confifting of an equal number of Greeks and Jews. 
To each of thefe nations a diftind: quarter is afligned in the town. 
The governor having procured us mules, we rode into the interior 
of the ifland, attended by a guide, and accompanied by three of the 
inhabitants, among whom was the Greek at whofe houfe we refided. 
The town and environs of Stanco are fupplied with water by an 
aqueduct, which has its fource on the fummit of an adjacent moun- 
tain, to which we rode. It is called Vohreeney, and is diftant from 
the town about five miles. In afcending the mountain, we had to 
follow our guide by feveral rugged and winding paths, which at 
length conducted us to the fource. Over the fpring a building is 
ereded ; and a narrow paffage, nearly an hundred feet in length, 

3 k 2 



436 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

conftrucled in mafonry, leads to the rock. We pafted through this 
paflage with the help of lights, and came to a circular elevated cham- 
ber, having a vaulted roof, beneath which we perceived the hole in 
the rock whence the water iflues incefTantly in a copious ftream. It 
enters the aqueduct by a narrow channel, and is thus conducted, 
■round the interpofing mountains, to Stanco, leaving on its way a 
portion of its fupplies, collected in open refervoirs, for the ufe of men 
and cattle. 

On our return we took a different route, and paffed through feve- 
ral villages lying to the weft of Stanco, the environs of which were 
principally occupied by fields of bearded wheat and barley, which 
were in ear, and had a very promifing appearance. We met alfb 
with feveral vineyards, and gardens of lemon- trees, which bore an 
immenfity of fruit. The fig, almond, pomegranate, and mulberry- 
trees were cultivated in ftone enclosures, which gave to the face of the 
country a neat and compact appearance. From the fummits of the 
mountains over which we rode, we had a diftinct view of the fuburbs 
of Stanco, fituated in a fine and extenfive plain, lying in a direction 
caft and weft of the town ; as well as of the low country towards 
the fea-fhore. On the fides of the mountains a few firs, cyprefs, 
and olive-trees are fcattered ; but the country in general, whatever 
may be its fertility, is not fo abundant in trees and other vegetable 
productions as Rhodes. The partridges natural to the ifland are very 
large, being nearly of the fize of a pullet, with red legs, and the other 
characteristic diftinctions of thofe of the coaft of Barbary. We faw 
feveral braces of them in our excurfion, and a confiderable number 
of quails. In general the ifland of Stanco appears to abound with 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 437 

game. With refpecl to. its rifmg population, the children of the 
peafants are numerous, well nourifhed, robuft, and of agreeable fea- 
tures, indicating, in their general appearance, the comparately eafy 
circumftances of thofe to whom they belong. The ifland was, at 
the time of our vifit, in a very healthy ftate, not having been vifited 
by the plague during the laft five years. 

Early in the morning of the 23d the Reis of our caick paid us a 
vifit to announce to us the favourable ftate of the weather for the 
profecution of our voyage. We embarked in confequence, with our 
baggage, at eleven o'clock A. M. and failed out of the harbour of 
Stanco. The wind blowing a pretty {bong gale from the north- 
weft, we were, notwithstanding the flattering profpecl: which the 
Reis had held out to us, obliged to beat up againft it with great 
perfeverance until four in the afternoon, when we anchored in a bay 
on the coaft of Anadolia, diftant from the town of Stanco from fifteen 
to eighteen miles to the north-eaft. We landed at the village of 
Chatalcar, fituated in the bay, the land in the environs of which was 
laid out in com fields, interfperfed with fig, almond, and other trees. 
The oxen employed in the fields for ploughing are of a very hand- 
fome breed, but not large. 

~ On the morning of the 24th, the wind having changed to the 
north-eaft, we failed at fix o'clock ; and were in fight, two hours 
after, of the ifland of Patmos, being clofe in with Calamo, Lero, and 
feveral other fmall iflands. At half paft four in the afternoon we 
anchored in a fmall bay on the coaft of Anadolia, near to a village 
called by the Turks Ballat, inhabited by Greeks. The wind having 
become more favourable at eleven o'clock A. M. had enabled us to 



438 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

flretch over from Calamoto the coaftof Anadolia, which being con- 
ftantly infefted by pirates, of whom our Reis entertained great appre- 
henfions, the arms on board the caick, confining of mufkets, piftols, 
and fabres, were put in readinefs, and the one half of the crew fta- 
tioned to keep watch during the night. The bay in which we were 
anchored is diliant from fifteen to twenty miles from the entrance of 
the little bogaz of Samos, leading into the paffage of Scalanova. At 
nine P. M. the wind Ihifted to the fouth-eaft ; and the fears of our 
Reis relative to the pirates being augmented, he was induced to 
make an attempt to get out of the bay, for which purpofe the crew 
had recourfe to the fweeps. 

On the morning of the 25th it blew a frefh gale from the north, 
with heavy clouds, and a thick haze of the atmofphere. At eight 
o'clock we were oppofite to a town which we conjectured to be 
Cora, in the ifland of Samos. We entered the bogaz at half paft 
nine ; but in confequence of the wind failing us, our crew had again 
recourfe to the fweeps. At two o'clock P. M. we anchored in a bay 
on the north-eaft fide of the ifland of Samos, having in its front a 
fmall ifland, or rather a rock, called the rock of Prafonifi. We found 
in the bay a caick bound from Rhodes to Scio. We were told that 
there was a town within two leagues of us ; but were prevented 
from landing by the rains which fell during the greater part of the 
day. On the fides of the mountains, and in the adjacent vallies, we 
obferved feveral fine vineyards. 

We were prevented from failing on the 26th by a gale from the 
north-eaft, which was fo violent, that, notwithftanding this was a 
favourable point for our deflination, our Reis was unwilling to put 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 439 

to fea. As it rained at the time, we landed between the fhowers, 
and made an excurflon to the neighbouring mountains. We parTed 
through feveral vallies, the foil of which was rich and of a reddifh 
colour, and the cultivation not neglected. The mountains are 
compofed of rocks, of blue and white marble, blended with a ftone 
called the fatin ftone : in the parts fufceptible of cultivation they are 
planted with olive-trees, firs, the maftic, the arbutus, and other trees 
and fhrubs. We did not meet with any dwellings ; but paffed two 
or three fmall caves, which appeared to be deftined to receive the 
grapes when ripe : for the purpofe of containing the juice, after it 
has been exprefTed from the fruit, we faw in each of thefe caves, a 
fmall ciftern. From the. fprings which ifiued from the rocks we. 
procured excellent water* 

At five in the morning of the 2 7th we got under way, but were 
foon after becalmed. At feven o'clock we had a gentle breeze from 
the weftward ; and bore away as foon as we had weathered the 
north-ealt point of the ifland, Scalanova being diflant from us about 
fifteen or twenty miles to the eaft. We were becalmed for feveral 
hours ; and at half paft two o'clock P. M. were under the neceflity 
of entering a fine bay on the north fide of the ifland, where we came 
to anchor. We landed, and walked to the vineyards*, which were 
in a very flourifhing flate. Among the fhrubs which grew at the 
fides of the mountains, we noticed the juniper, the berries on which 
were uncommonly large. Three of our crew were fent to a neigh- 
bouring town, called by the Turks Vati, diftant from the bay about 
^ league and a half, to procure bread, and the other articles of which 
we flood in need. We had ourfehes made an arrangement to land 



44o TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

on the following morning ; but our Reis difappointed us by getting 
under way before day-light. His fudden departure was occaiioned 
by the dread he ftill entertained of the pirates, who are faid con- 
ftantly to lurk in the vicinity of this ifland. The northern fide, which 
we were now coafting, is principally laid out in vineyards : the land 
is lofty and irregular. 

By the help of occaflonal light winds from the north-weft, we 
crolfed the gulf of Scalanova at ten o'clock A. M. The calms which 
prevailed at intervals rendered the fea fo fmooth, that its furface had 
the appearance of being covered with oil. In croffing the gulf, our 
men were obliged to labour very hard at the fweeps. A little after 
fun-fet we anchored on the coaft of Anadolia. 

We failed at midnight ; and at feven in the morning of the 20th 
pafTed by Cickey Bourun, having the ifland of Scio ahead of us, dif- 
tant about twenty-five miles. The wind was fo fcanty, with occa- 
fional calms, that, in fpite of every exertion made by the crew of our 
veffel, we did not reach Scio until half paft one of the morning of the 
30th. At feven o'clock we landed at the town of Scio, which is 
called by the Turks Circas. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 



441 



CHAPTER XX. 

APPEARANCE AND DRESS OF THE GREEK WOMEN OF THE ISLAND OF SCIO 
LIGHT HOUSES GREEK CONVENT AT NEH AHMONEE CURIOUS DE- 
CORATIONS SOIL AND CULTIVATION OF THE ISLAND SCHOOL OF HO- 
MER GUM MASTIC' — DEL CAMPO POPULATION TOWN OF SCIO 

STREETS MARKETS WINES PORT OF SCIO PASSAGE TO SMYRNA 

POPULATION OF THE TOWN OF SCIO CHURCHES GENERAL HOSPITALS 

HOSPITAL FOR LEPERS SOME ACCOUNT OF THIS DISEASE GENERAL 

DISEASES MEDICINAL SPRING DEPARTURE FROM SCIO MITYLENE 

LESBOS TOWN OF CASTRO MARKETS TAVERNS OIL POPULATION 

FRUIT ISLAND OF TENEDOS TOWN AND FORTS COMMODITIES — 

ISLE OF RABBITS BANKS OF THE SCAMANDER — -PLAIN OF TROY TOMB 

OF PATROCLUS COMBCALLY SHENNACALLY ARRIVAL AT CONSTAN- 
TINOPLE. 

A S foon as we were landed at Scio we paid our refpects to the 
Turkifti commandant, and to the Britifh conful, Signor Gio- 
vanni Giuduchi, who was fo obliging as to procure us an excellent 
houfe belonging to the Francifcan convent, which had been felectcd 
for the refidence of Lord Elgin, his Lordfhip being fhortly expected 
at this illand for the recovery of his health. Having landed our bag- 
gage, we took poffeffion of our new habitation, and afterwards walked 
in the town. We were not a little {truck with the novelty of the 
drefs of the Greek women, who had put on their gayeft attire, it 
being the feftival of the blefTed Virgin. On this account the greater 
part of the bazars were Ihut. 

3 L 



442 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

The drefs to which I have alluded is fo extremely lingular, that I 
am perfuaded the reader will not be difpleafed at my attempting to 
defcribe it at fome length. The head-drefs is fomewhat agreeable, 
and confifts of a fkull-cap, embroidered in gold, having a coloured 
wrought handkerchief pa-fled round it, which leaves the embroidery 
in the centre of the cap uncovered. In fome inftances the head is 
fimply covered by a white handkerchief ; and the hair is occafionally 
cut fhort, while by others of thefe females it is left flowing in ring- 
lets down the back. They wear a kind of fhort fpencer of green 
{ilk or fatin, the infide of the fleeves being fluffed with cotton, to 
give to the arms an appearance of plumpnefs. The gold embroidered 
cuffs, which reach nearly to the elbows, are turned back. Over this 
fpencer they have a wide outer veft, paffed round the body, and 
reaching to the knees only, which is plaited in fuch a way as to 
make the wearer appear of an enormous fize, and as if clad in a wide 
but fhort hoop. This outer garment is either of green, or of pink 
fatin, or filk ; but the former of thefe colours is the moft prevalent. 
A lhort apron of filk or of fatin, which is fometimes embroidered, 
and fometimes made of flowered cottons of different colours, reaches 
from the bofom to the knees. The white cotton petticoat is worn 
fo fhort, that the red embroidered garters are feen intentionally 
hanging beneath it : the {lockings are white, as are alfo the flippers, 
or flioes, which are worn down at the heel, but fancifully decorated 
with coloured filk ribbons, and otherwife very elegantly ornamented. 
Some of thefe females difplay the upper part of the bofom, which is 
covered by others with a handkerchief. They are in general very 
fair, have agreeable features, and a fine and {biking phyfiognomy, 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 443 

In this ifland, indeed, the complexion both of the Greek and Turkifh 
women is good; but the former, not content with that which na- 
ture has liberally bellowed on them, endeavour to embellifh it by- 
having recourfe to art. I allude here to the Greek women who in- 
habit the town of Scio : they go always unveiled, and when they 
put on their gay garments, are highly rouged, or painted. 

When a Turk efpoufes one of thefe females, the children whom 
me bears to him are educated in the Mahomedan faith, while 
the mother is permitted to continue in the practice of her own re- 
ligion. 

Two light-houfes are erected at Scio to direct the courfe of the 
veffels failing into the harbour, in which feveral caicks and other 
veffels were lying at anchor at the time of our arrival. As foon as 
we had dined, the conful conducted us to a fpot near the fea-fhore, 
where a confiderable number of Greeks of each fex were affembled 
to celebrate the feftival to which I have already alluded, and to dif- 
play their fine dreffes, which is every where one of the predominant 
paffions of that nation. It was truly a gay and lively fcene, which 
might have vied with that of our Kenfington Gardens, or of the Park 
of St. James, in the feafon favourable to promenades. Several hun- 
dreds of females, in the drefs I have defcribed, were affembled ; and 
throughout the company there was a general air of neatnefs, com- 
bined with great decorum of conduct. Several circular dances were 
formed according to the ufage of the Greeks. 

On the iff of May, having procured mules, we made a morning's 
excurfion into the interior of the ifland, to vifit the Greek convent 
at Nehahmonee, diftant from the town of Scio about five miles. 



444 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

The road over which we had to pafs was rocky, and in every refpeclt 
fo bad, that our mules employed a fpace of two hours and a half to 
reach the convent. On our arrival we entered the chapel, which is 
beautifully ornamented with mofaic work, formed of fine fpecimens 
of the different marbles collected in the ifland. Thefe marbles are 
difpofed with great tafte, more efpecially in the dome of the chapel, 
where they are blended w T ith pieces of coloured glafs, and of gilt 
ftone, retained by a kind of cement, fo as to reprefent a variety of 
fcriptural fubjects and figures. Each of the bits of glafs, or portions 
of ftone, does not exceed, in its fquare, the fourth part of an inch; 
and the whole muft have been wrought with immenfe labour. 

Within the walls of the convent, which was founded by Conftan- 
tine the Great, there is a fine ciftern, or rcfervoir, of excellent water, 
collected partly by the rains, and partly from a fpring fituated at its 
inferior part. Its dimenfions are fifty feet by thirty ; and the roof, 
which forms a kind of terrace to intercept the rains in their defcent, 
is fupported by two rows of columns. 

On our quitting the convent, we afcended the mountains in its 
vicinity, which are extremely lofty, and have their rocky furfaccs 
covered with firs. The vallies, which are laid out in corn-fields and 
vineyards, have a poor and fteril foil, which is only rendered in any 
degree productive by great labour and perfeverance. Fig, olive, 
pomegranate, almond, and mulberry-trees are interfperfed, the latter 
being deftined for the nourifhment of the breed of filk worms, which 
are a great fource of revenue to the inhabitants, a confiderable ma- 
nufactory of filks being carried on at Scio, as well for home con- 
fumption as for exportation. A great part of the ifland is ftill in an 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 445 

uncultivated ftate, owing to the rocks which are every where inter- 
pofed, and the general bad condition of the foil. To fupply, there- 
fore, the wants of a very confiderable population, amounting from 
forty to fifty thoufand fouls, whofe confumption far exceeds the pro- 
duce which the land is, by every induflrious exertion, made to afford, 
the inhabitants are under the neceffity of importing both corn and 
cattle from Anadolia, and from the other adjacent countries. 

Having returned to the convent to take leave, we partook of the 
refrefhments which were offered to us by the holy fathers, and de- 
parted for Scio. The convent of Nahahmonee beflows lodging and 
entertainment during three days on all who, on their travels, folicit 
that indulgence, without any inquiry being made relative to the re- 
ligion they profefs. We were told that three hundred perfons refide 
within this fandluary, which is fo extenfive that it appears like a 
fmall village. Of this number forty are priefts who perform mafs, 
and adminifter to the other duties of their facred calling ; while the 
caloyers, or lay brothers, who are the moft numerous, cultivate the 
lands affigned to them by the convent, and are furnifhed with a 
lodging, together with a daily allowance of provifions and wine. On 
the demife of thefe lay brothers the lands revert to the convent, 
which befide takes poffeffion of all the property they leave behind. 
They are allowed to marry ; but in this cafe cannot become priefts, 
lhould they even be without iffue, although the priefts themfelves 
are not ftricHy bound to the obfervance of celibacy. When the lat- 
ter marry, they wear a white fillet round the rim of the black cap 
which forms a part of their coflume. 

In our return homewards we paffed near the valley in which is 



446 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

fituated the hofpital appropriated for the leprous fubjects of all the 
iflands of the Archipelago. As we purpofed, however, to vilit it at 
a more convenient opportunity, it will be defcribed in another place. 
It was fix in the evening before we reached our habitation at Scio. 

We vifited on the 2d the houfes of feveral of the principal Greek 
inhabitants of Scio. They are capacious, lofty, well built, and hand- 
fomely finimed withinfide, after the Chinefe fafhion. The materials 
employed for their contraction confift of marble, and of two diffe- 
rent kinds of ftone, one of which is collected on the ifland, and the 
other brought from Efca Stamboul, near the fite of Troy. The lat- 
ter is fold at an extravagant price ; and as labour is rated very high 
at Scio, thefe edifices rauft have been built at a very confiderable 
expence. 

We proceeded afterwards to the fpot where the celebrated poet 
Homer is faid to have kept his fchool. Whatever difagreements 
there may be among hiftorians relative to the birth-place of this 
extraordinary man, it feems to be generally allowed that he had 
chofen Scio as his refidence at the time he followed the avocation of 
a fchool- mafter. Our road, to the north of the town, was along the 
fea-fhore ; and after a walk of nearly two hours and a half, our guide 
conducted us to a rock, at a little diftance from the fea, which, as 
we were told it contained the claffic object: of our vifit, we afcended 
with a fatisfaction bordering on enthufiafm. In the centre of the 
rock a kind of table is hewn out, behind which it is conjectured the 
orator was pofted ; and around it we perceived the remains of the 
feats, likewife hewn out of the rock, where the fcholars are fuppofed 
to have been feated. Having procured feveral fmall fragments of 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 447 

the mutilated table, and of other parts of the rock, as memorials of 
our vifit, we retired to a groupe of fine trees in the vicinity, to re- 
pofe from our fatigues, and fhelter ourfelves from the fcorching heat, 
beneath their made. Near to this clufter of trees there is a fountain 
of cool and delicious water. It is one of the favourite retreats of the 
Turks and other inhabitants of the ifland during the warmer months. 
Several neat villages are interfperfed on the fides of the mountains, 
furrounded by well cultivated enclofures of corn, vines, lentils, and 
other vegetable productions. 

We walked in the evening to the public promenade of Scio, filled 
with the better fort of inhabitants of both fexes, all in their gay and 
holiday attire. Several of the ladies wore on the head bunches of 
flowers, as if drefTed for an afTembly. It may not be improper to 
notice here, that inftead of the outer veft of filk, or fatin, defcribed 
above, the females of an inferior clafs wear a veft of green cloth of 
the fame hideous and difagreeable fafhion. 

On the morning of the 3d we rode to Calligmahfeah, one of the 
twenty-four villages in the ifland of Scio, where the lentifk-tree is 
\ cultivated, from which the gum maftic is collected, to be fent to 
Conftantinople for the ufe of the Seraglio. It being the property of 
the Grand Seignor, perfons are fent to the ifland to collect it ; twenty- 
one thoufand and twenty-five okes, or meafures, of this gum being 
forwarded annually to the above deftination. The remainder is dif- 
pofed of furreptitioufly when a favourable opportunity prefents it- 
felf ; but this traffic is attended by a confiderable rifk. The Englifh 
conful related an inftance of having himfelf purchafed a quantity of 
the gum, which he afterwards difpofed of at Conftantinople ; but a 



44 8 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

difcovery having been made, he was fubjecled to the very heavy fine 
of eight thoufand piaftres, and otherwife maltreated. The gum 
maftic is chewed by the females in Turkey to fweeten the breath. 

With refpect to the tree itfelf, the botanical name of which is 
the dendron fcinos, it grows to the height of from four to fix, and 
even eight feet. When viewed at a diftance, it is not unlike our 
common holly ; but its leaves are of a paler green, refembling, in 
fome degree, thofe of the broad-leafed myrtle, but more obtufe. The 
gum is collected, for the firft time in the feafon, about the month of 
July, when it is of the beft quality ; and the operation, which is re- 
peated two or three times in the courfe of the year, confifts in mak- 
ing incifions in the trunk of the tree, from which the juice gradually 
exudes, and hardens into the confidence of a gum. The lentifk-tree 
is not tapped until it has attained a growth of five years : thofe wc 
faw, we were informed by the inhabitants of the village, were con- 
siderably older. The population of this village, the houfes of which 
are, as well as the old caftle in its centre, in a very ruinous condition, 
may be eftimated at about three hundred individuals, all Greeks, and 
of a healthy and cheerful appearance. The women and children 
employ themfelves in fpinning cotton, which is fent to the town of 
Scio to be employed in a manufactory of white cotton ftockings, very 
durable, and in other refpecls of an excellent quality. 

Our excurfion led us through a very agreeable and fertile part of 
the ifland, called Del Campo, which is fo well peopled that we met 
with a continuation of dwellings from the town of Scio to the above 
village of Calligmahfeah, an extent of nearly feven miles. Within 
this line of territory there are a confiderable number of large, hand- 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 449 

fbme, and fubftantial ftone edifices, with terraces at the top, the 
fummer refidences of the wealthy Greeks and Turks. Each of thefe 
houfes is provided with a garden enclofed by high Itone walls, which 
produces the choiceft fruits of the growth of the ifland, and is em- 
bellifhed by rows of fine cyprefs-trees. In pafling through the ave- 
nues leading to thefe gardens, the traveller is delighted by the grate- 
ful odours which are conftantly exhaled to perfume the furrounding 
atmofphere. 

In the courfe of our ride we faw an abundance of the terebintha 
trees, from which the turpentine is collected by a procefs fimilar to 
that employed in procuring the gum maftic. Except that the bark 
of the trunk is more rough and irregular, this tree has fo great a re- 
femblance to the afh, that I was induced, on reflection, to think my- 
felf deceived when I fuppofed the latter tree to grow on the iflands 
we had precedently vifited. We paffed feveral fpots of ground 
abounding in fullers' earth and potters' clay ; and were led, by every 
thing we had obferved, to confider a great portion of the ifland of 
Scio as abounding in ufeful and valuable productions. - It is certainly 
over peopled in proportion to its extent, and to the refources of its 
foil ; but this circumflance operating as a powerful ftimulus to in- 
duftry, the lands fufceptible of improvement are cultivated with tha 
utmoft labour and perfeverance. It is probable that the freedom the 
inhabitants enjoy induces them to prefer Scio to the other iflands. 
Its population has been overrated by thofe who have computed it at 
upwards of feventy thoufand fouls : from the mofr. accurate infor- 
mation I could collect, it does not exceed fifty thoufand, of whom 
the great majority are Greeks, with two thoufand Turks, one thou- 
fand Catholics, and a few Jews. 

3 M 



45 o TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

The town of Scio is of a moderate extent, and contains feveral 
fine ftone edifices, built by the Genoefe at the time they were in pof- 
feffion of the ifland. They alfo conftructed a fortrefs, which is at 
prefent in a ruinous condition. The houfes of the principal inha- 
bitants are as elegant in their ftructure and external decorations as 
they are handfomely furnifhed within. The ifland fupplies a va- 
riety of variegated marbles of different colours, which are wrought 
into columns, pavements of floors, door jambs, lintels, &c. The 
Genoefe houfes are tiled, with a Hoping roof ; but thofe of a more 
modern confr.rucl.ion are furmounted by flat terraces. The ftreets 
in general are narrow, paved, have a raifed footway, and are kept 
tolerably clean, confidering that Scio is within the limits of the 
Turkifh dominions. The bazars are well fupplied ; but the articles 
they contain are fold at rather an exorbitant price. Scio carries on 
an extenfive trade with Leghorn and feveral other ports of the Me- 
diterranean. Its manufactures confift of filk and fatin fluffs, plain 
and ftriped cottons and dimities, and various articles of embroidery. 
The cotton flockings and night-caps manufactured there are held in 
a very general eftimation. 

Large quantities of olive oil, of the pureft and mofr. delicious qua- 
lity, are annually exported to Venice, which is alfo the mart for the 
turpentine collected in the ifland. The export of wine, of the growth 
of Scio, to Conftantinople and other parts of Turkey, is but incon- 
fiderable, the Greek inhabitants, who are paffionately fond of it, con- 
fuming by far the greater proportion of the produce of the vintage. 
We procured a quantity of good red wine of the preceding vintage 
at ten and twelve paras the oke ; but the old wine is flill dearer. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 451 

Adjacent to the town of Scio there are a confiderable number of 
extenfive enclofed gardens, filled with every defcriptlon of the fruits 
the ifland produces, and with aromatic plants and fhrubs, the fra- 
grant odours exhaled from which impregnate the air to the diftance 
of federal miles at fea, when the wind blows off the land. We were 
very fenfible of this when approaching the ifland. 

The port of Scio is very unfafe when the wind blows from the 
eaft and eaft-fouth-eaft : it is likewife open to the north winds, which 
are, however, lefs dangerous than the levanters, or eafterly winds. It 
is, however, a convenient harbour for caicks and light vefTels of every 
defcription. The pafTage to Smyrna, by the route of Chifme, oppo- 
fite to Scio, is very fhort, being within the compafs of a day's journey 
by land. Paffengers crofs over from Scio to Chifme in caicks, which 
are conftantly employed for that purpofe, as well as for the convey- 
ance of merchandize. The journey from Chifme is made by land 
on mules, and it requires about twelve hours to reach Smyrna, by a 
very rocky and mountainous road. The whole of the expence to a 
perfon who undertakes this route from Scio to Smyrna does not ex- 
ceed five piaftres, or feven millings and fixpence Englifli. We felt 
great regret at being prevented by circumftances from vifiting the 
latter city. 

The population of the town of Scio is efti mated at about twenty- 
five thoufand fouls, that is, nearly, if not entirely, the half of the 
complete population of the ifland. Of this population about twenty- 
two thoufand individuals are Greeks, with two thoufand Turks, and 
about a thoufand Catholics and Jews. The other parts of the ifland 
are exclufively inhabited by Greeks. 

3 M 2 



45 2 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

Having exprefled a defire to view the churches in Scio belonging 
to the latter nation, the Englifh conful conducted us to three of thefe 
edifices held in the higheft eftimation, and alfo to the only church . 
in that place belonging to the catholics. One of the former was a 
very beautiful ftruclure, adorned withinfide with gilt ornaments, 
elegant carvings in wood, and fine columns of the variegated marble 
of Scio. It is much to be regretted that the workmen of the coun- 
try have not fufficient addrefs to give to this elegant marble the high 
polifh of which it is fufceptible. If it could be conveniently trans- 
ported to England, it would certainly be held in great eftimation. 
In the front of the churches there are feveral fculptures of Genoefe 
workmanfhip. We vifited one of the hofpitals belonging to the 
Greek fathers for the reception of infirm, fick, and infane perfons. 
Of the latter defcription we faw three men and two women. 

We paid a vifit to the Superior of the catholics, by name Timoni, 
whom we found to be a very agreeable, well informed, and ftudious 
man. The family of Timoni has long borne a very diftinguifhed 
reputation among the catholics of Conftantinople. We walked af- 
terwards to the hofpital for the reception of lepers, Situated in a val- 
ley on the north- weft fide of the town, from which it is diftant about 
a mile and a half, or two miles. This building is a very airy, exten- 
five, and comfortable refidence for thefe unfortunate people, nearly 
two hundred of whom of both fexes refided in it at the time of our 
vifit. They were all adults, children not being liable to this dif- 
eafe, which does not manifeft itfelf until about the age of fifteen. 
Different apartments are affigned to the males and females. Thofc 
we faw appeared to be in general from thirty to forty years of age ; 
but others were ftill older. Several of them had loft one or both 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 453 

the eyes ; others the fingers and toes ; and others again the nofe. 
The limbs of the greater part of thefe unfortunate wretches were in 
a contracted flate, with fwelling of the hands and legs. The erup- 
tions were more numerous in the face than in any other part. The 
difeafe, indeed, is confined to the legs, arms, and face, the body being 
externally free from its attacks. Among thefe leprous fubjects it was 
productive internally of cough, hoarfenefs, pain in the ftomach, and 
difficulty of digeftion, in addition to which the females complained 
of a continual vertigo and pain of the head. 

With refpect to the more prevalent difeafes of this ifland, the fmall- 
pox was, at the time of our arrival, very general among the children, 
of whom it fwept off great numbers. I was informed that fcrophu- 
lous fwellings are common among the inhabitants, but are removed 
without much difficulty. They are alfo fubject to phthifis and he- 
moptifis, the former being frequently fatal : the air of the ifland is 
indeed confidered as too fti mulating to the lungs. The inftances of 
longevity at Scio are very few ; and I could not learn that any of the 
inhabitants pafs their eightieth year. As a proof, however, that the 
ifland is not generally deemed unhealthy, it has been felected as the 
refidence of feveral valetudinarians from different parts of Europe. 
Among thefe a very rich Englifhman, named Bradbridge, of an ec- 
centric character, retired to Scio on account of the deranged ftate of 
his health, which was confiderably improved by a long refidence on 
this ifland. He died there about fifteen years before our arrival. 

From beneath the rock, which I have already defcribed as being 
the fite of the fchool of Homer, a fpring of water iflues, which is 
celebrated for its purity and medicinal properties. It is reforted to 



454 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

by all the valetudinarians of Scio, who afcribe to this water a diuretic 
quality. It is indeed fo much extolled, and held in fuch general 
eftimation, that large quantities of it are occafionally fent to Con- 
ftantinople, for the ufe of the Grand Seignor and of the Seraglio. 
Every part of the ifland is fupplied with delicious water, which is 
conveyed by aqueducts from place to place for the ufe of the inhabi- 
tants of the different villages. 

I mould have obferved, that the cultivated lands are in general 
enclofed by ftone walls from two to three feet in height, which are 
extremely ufeful in particular fituations, more efpecially on the fides 
of the more elevated mountains, which are cultivated almoft to their 
fummits. During the falls of rain the waters are prevented by thefe 
walls from carrying down the foil, as well as the produce of the in- 
clofures, into the vallies beneath. 

We failed from Scio on the 5th, at half paft ten in the morning. 
At the time of our departure, the Greeks were preparing to celebrate 
the feftival of St. George. About five o'clock on the following 
morning we were in the gulf of Smyrna, midway between Caraba- 
roun and the ifland of Mitylene, the territory furrounding Smyrna 
being diftinclly in fight. At half paft twelve o'clock we arrived at 
Mitylene, and anchored in the harbour of Caftro, or Mitylene, the 
ancient Lefbos, the birth-place of fo many learned perfons, whofe 
celebrity has been handed down to our times. Pittacus, the poet 
Alcaeus, Sappho, Epicus, Theophraftus, and Diophanes, are among 
the many great and extraordinary characters this ifland produced ; 
and it was there that Ariftotle fpent two years of a life devoted to 
ftudy and retirement. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 455 

Caftro has two ports, or harbours, one to the north-eaft of the 
town, the other open to the eaft and fouth-eaft winds, with two 
light-houfes to direct the entrance of venels in the night-time. To 
the right a citadel or cattle, built by the Venetians, is fituated on 
a height which commands both the town and the veffels lying in 
the harbours. We anchored in the latter of them, and immediately 
went on Ihore. In coming directly from Scio to Mitylene, the 
traveller views the latter ifland to a great difadvantage, as it wants 
the delightful luxuriance and richnefs of fcenery by which the 
former is fo eminently diftinguifhed. The north -weft fide, how- 
ever, of the ifland, which we coafted in coming into port, is 
covered with flourifhing olive-trees, and with corn-fields in the 
neighbourhood of the different villages. 

The town of Caftro, through which we walked, is not fo large 
as that of Scio. The ftreets are narrow, but paved; and the 
houfes refemble thofe of Conftantinople, with tiled roofs, and 
with fronts either of wood or covered with- white plafter. The ba- 
zars were at the time well fupplied. In this place there are a great 
number of taverns, the wine fold in which, of the growth- of the 
illand, is tolerably good, and fold at the rate of from ten to twelve 
paras the oke, or meafure. We faw feveral works in which the 
oil is extracted in considerable quantities from the olives : there are 
alfoat Caftro feveral manufactories of foap. 

The coftume of the females differs but little from that of the 
women of Scio, with the exception of the head-drefs, which has a 
truly fingular appearance. Behind, the crown of the head a kind of 



456 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

fan, in breadth about five or fix inches, rifes to the height of feven or 
eight, and has an elevation of about two inches above the forehead 
in front. This ornament, if it can merit that name, is ufually 
made of cotton ; and a handkerchief is thrown over it when the 
wearer goes abroad. A head-drefs of fuch a defcription is certainly 
neither neat nor becoming. That which covers the body is worn of 
fomewhat a greater length than at Scio. The drefs of the men is 
precifely the fame. 

Caftro contains about two thoufand houfes, and nearly ten thou- 
fand inhabitants, in the proportion of five Greeks to one Turk. They 
have neither a neat, nor a very handfome appearance. The town, 
which is built in the form of a crefcent, is fituated at the fides of 
hills, the gentle declivities of which give it a very pleafing appear- 
ance. Many fragments of plain and fluted columns, with other 
remnants of architectural ornaments, are to be feen in the pave- 
ments, walls, and houfes ; and many others lie fcattered in different 
parts of the town, to atteft the ancient exiftence of the handfome 
edifices which ftood on its fite. It feems to be univerfally agreed 
that the town of Caftro, or Mitylene, was built on the ruins" of the 
celebrated city of Lefbos. 

With the exception of grapes and figs, there are but few fruits 
cultivated in the environs of Caftro. In the gardens, in which the 
cyprefs and terebintha trees are planted for ornament, we faw an in- 
confiderable quantity of oranges. The town is fupplied with water 
of a good quality by the means of aqueducts. 

We were defirous of proceding on our voyage on the 7th; but 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 457 

the preceding night having been flormy, with much lightning and 
rain, and the wind {till blowing very frefh from the northward, our 
Reis did not think it prudent to quit the port. 

This tempeftuous weather continued without intermiffion until 
the ] oth, and afforded us fufficient leifure to amufe ourfelves in 
the town of Caftro, and in its environs. On the morning of that 
day, the weather being fine, and the breeze moderate, we failed ; 
but were overtaken in the evening by a ftrong gale from the north, 
which raifed fo high a fea that our little vefTel had fome difficulty 
in ftruggling with the waves. In the paffage between the ifland of 
Mitylene and Cape Baba, on the fide of the main land, there is a 
funken rock at nearly mid diftance, of which our Reis was under 
fome apprehenfion. About eleven o'clock at night we fuppofed we 
had cleared this rock, and left it on the larboard quarter, keeping 
clofe in with the main land. In the courfe of the night we cleared 
Cape Baba, on the coaft of Anadolia, the ifland of Tenedos being in 
fight, diftant about thirty miles, at the dawn of day. 

The wind being to the north-eaft on the morning of the 1 1th, we 
were prevented from fleering for Tenedos, as w T e had intended, and 
were obliged to bear away in the direction of the main land. We at 
length came to anchor nearly oppofite to the ifland, at a little 
diftance from Efca Stamboul, where we perceived the ruins of an 
extenfive palace, fronting the fea, with a capacious arch, or gate- 
way, for its entrance. We landed, and noticed among the trees a 
confiderable number of dwarf oaks, interfperfed amidfl excellent paf- 
turage grounds for cattle. 

At half paft four in the morning of the 12th, we failed, and ar- 

3 N 



458 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

rived two hours after at the ifland of Tenedos. We difembarked, 
and having walked through the town, proceeded to the neighbour- 
ing lofty hills. With the exception of thefe hills, the land of the ifland 
has in general a flat furface. The vallies are cultivated in vines, with 
a few patches of corn ; but there are neither trees nor fhrubs, with 
the exception of a few folitary fig and mulberry trees. The ifland, 
however, open as it is, has a-pleafing appearance, the effect of which 
is heightened by the gentle Hopes from the hills. A few houfes are 
difperfed in the interior. Thofe of the town, which is of a very in- 
confiderable extent, are mean, conftructed of wood, and tiled over. 
The inhabitants are compofed of about a thoufand Turks, and 
four hundred Greeks. The principal trade confifts in the export of 
wines. 

There are two forts at Tenedos, of which the one fltuated on the 
north-weft fide is the principal, and is a work of fome confiderable 
importance and ftrength, apparently of Venetian conftru&ion. 
That on the eaftern fide is a fmall fort of little ftrength, which is, 
however, calculated by its pofition to annoy the veffels entering the 
port, in the cafe of a meditated attack. 

We paid a vifit to the Englifli conful, by birth a Greek, who 
could fpeak neither the Englifli, French, nor Italian language. 
Among the little information we were enabled to collecl from him., 
we learned that the Mutine brig had arrived at the ifland on the 8th 
of March, and had remained there two days. She returned after- 
wards, at the time when Lord Elgin, the Britifh ambaffador at 
Conftantinople, made an excurfion to Athens, and followed his. 
Lordfhip to that deftination. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 459 

On the ifland of Tenedos there are fine flocks of flieep, which 
find an excellent pafturage on the hills. The mutton is cheap ; as 
is alfo the wine of the country, which is of a very fuperior quality. 

The wind having fliifted round to the north-weft, we failed at 
noon, and at three o'clock P. M. paffed the ifle of rabbits. At 
feven in the evening we anchored clofe under Sige, or Sigasum, a 
city of Troas ; but were prevented by the calms which came on 
from entering the {trait of the Dardanelles. 

We failed early on the morning of the 13th ; but were foon after 
becalmed. At feven o'clock a breeze fprung up from the north- 
weft, by which we were enabled to reach Cettlebahar, the caftle 
fituated on the European more of the Dardanelles, on the fouth 
fide of which we anchored at ten o'clock. The wind becoming in 
a little time more favourable, our Reis was induced to attempt the 
paffage of the ftraits; but, after fe-veral fruitlefs efforts on his part, 
we were carried by the very rapid current towards the Afiatic more, 
and were obliged to come to anchor below the caftle, between it and 
SigaDum. Several other veffels had recourfe to the fame' expedient, the 
w r ind being in a contrary direction to the navigation of the Darda- 
nelles. We landed at Coombcally to purchafe the articles of which 
we ftood in need ; and having amufed ourfelves by a promenade on 
the banks of the celebrated Scamander, vifited once again the 
plain of Troy, and having mounted to the tomb of Patroclus, re- 
turned to the vefTel. 

Coombcally is a miferable town inhabited by Turks, which owes 
the little importance it potteries to its commanding fituation at the 
entrance of the ftraits, where there are two forts, one on each fide, 

3 n 2 



4 6o TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

of fufficient ftrength to annoy any veffels which mould attempt to 
force a paffage. 

We failed at fix in the morning of the 14th, with the wind at 
eaft; but our crew were foon after obliged to tow the veffel, with a 
view to get her over to the European fide. At eight o'clock, the 
wind having fhifted to the north- weft, we bore away for Imbros, 
from which ifland we were diftant, an hour after, about fix miles. 
We now tacked and ftood away for Cettlebahar. At half paft 
one o'clock P. M. we anchored in a fine bay, about two miles to 
the north of the caftles of Cettlebahar. On the fummit of the 
north point of this bay there is a fort mounting twenty- four guns, 
beneath which we dropped anchor, waiting for the firft favourable 
breeze which might fpring up to convey us to Shennacally. In the 
courfe of the laft twenty hours we had been repeatedly driven over 
from the European to the Afiatic, and thence again to the European 
fide. At half paft two o'clock, however, the wind having become 
more favourable, we failed, and were at length enabled to come 
to anchor under Cape Baba, on the Afiatic fhore, diftant from 
Shennacally about fix or feven miles, at half paft feven in the 
evening. 

On the 1 5th, at half paft nine o'clock, we weighed anchor, and 
arrived at Shennacally at half paft eleven. Having dropped an- 
chor, we went on fhore to pay a vifit to the conful, and returned 
on board at one o'clock P. M. when we failed with a fair breeze 
from the fouth-weft. At half paft fix in the evening we paffed 
Lampfacus, a fmall town on the Afiatic fide, fituated in a very fine 
and fertile country. At eight o'clock we paffed Gallipoli, on the 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 461 

European fide of the Dardanelles, the territory adjoining to which 
is alfo very fertile, abundant harvefts of corn being collected on the 
gently floping hills which rife from the fea fhore. 

We were becalmed on the 16th in the morning in the Straits of St. 
George, the Marmora iflands bearing north-eaft, diftant about thirty 
miles. At eight o'clock we had a flight breeze from the fouth and 
fouth-eaft, which enabled us to make fome way. We faw a con- 
fiderable number of veflels a few miles a head of us. The greater 
part of the day was cold and ftiowery. At midnight we pafifed the 
fouth-weft extremity of the ifland of Marmora ; and at three the 
following morning cleared the ifland, and flood for Conftantinople, 
with light winds and occafional calms. At feven in the evening 
we were abreaft of Cachouk Chekmege, at which time feveral of 
the headmoft veflels appeared to be entering the harbour of Con- 
ftantinople. 

On the morning of the 18th we were overtaken by calms, which 
obliged our crew to tow and row the veflel. At eight o'clock we 
pafled the feven towers ; and were foon after taken from the caick, 
and conveyed in a boat to Tophana, which place we reached at ten 
o'clock. We were informed on our arrival, that Colonel Holloway 
and Major Hope had quitted Conftantinople on their way to Eng- 
land, fix days before. We loft no time in engaging a row-boat to 
convey us to Varno on the Black Sea. 

On the 20th I called on Mr. Stratton, the Britifli fecretary of 
legation, who defired the principal drogoman, or interpreter, Mon- 
fieur Pefani, to procure me a firman, and to make the neceflary 
arrangements for my journey to Vienna, by the route of Varna, 



462 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

The firman, or paffport, which I obtained in confequence, was fimi- 
lar to thofe cuftomarily furnimed by the government of the Sub- 
lime Porte to all perfons, not Turkifti fubjects, paffing from one 
part of the Ottoman dominions to another. Thefe firmans are not 
only a protection to the traveller, but contain an injunction to all 
the pachas, or governors, of the Turkifli provinces and towns, to 
forward him on his route, and fupply him with every requifite his 
neceffities may demand. The text is accompanied by a faithful en- 
graving, which may ferve to give the reader an idea of a Turkifh 
firman. It contains at the upper part, in a collection of flourifhes, 
an enumeration of all the titles of the Grand Signor. 

On the 21 ft I went from Tophana to Buyukdere, to wait there 
until circumftances mould be favourable to my departure. I had 
occafion, however, to lament, upon my arrival at Conftantinople, 
that the Britifh ambafTador, Lord Egin, was then at Athens, on ac- 
count of the ill ftate of his health. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 



463 



CHAPTER XXI. 

EMBARKATION AT BUYUKDERE ARRIVAL AT VARNA YENIPAZZAR— » 

KASGAT APPREHENSIONS FROM BANDITTI ROUZCHOOK GEORGIVAL 

GENERAL TERROR ON ACCOUNT OF THE APPROACH OF PASWAN OGLOU 

EMBARKATION FOR GALATZ IN MOLDAVIA TORKOTOI MILLS ELE- 
VATED ON BOATS VILLAGES ON FIRE SILISTRIA DISTRESSING 

SCENE OF DEVASTATION VOYAGE ON THE DANUBE DESCRIPTION OF 

THE VESSELS BANKS OF THE DANUBE FUGITIVES FROM BANDITTI 

ROSSOVAT GIRSOW GALATZ BORLAT YASSI ENTRANCE INTO 

POLAND CHERNOWICH JOURNEY THROUGH PART OF POLAND SALT 

PITS AT WILISKA CRACOW SHOTTAU— SILESIA NEISLISCHENE 

ARRIVAL AT VIENNA VACCINE INOCULATION INTRODUCED THERE 

CATHEDRAL OF ST. STEPHEN WIDDEN THEATRE IMPERIAL LIBRARY 

MENAGE THEATRE DE LA COUR CABINET OF MEDALS GENERAL 

HOSPITAL CABINET OF NATURAL HISTORY NEW AND SINGULAR OPI T 

NION ON THE BRAIN HOSPITAL FOR LUNATICS ANECDOTE B.ELAT1VE 

TO THE EMPEROR JOSEPH II. IMPERIAL PALACE AT SCHOMBRUN ME- 
NAGERIE OBSERVATORY MODEL OF OUR SAVIOUR'S SEPULCHRE 

ARSENAL COLLECTION OF PICTURES DEPARTURE FROM VIENNA. 

JOEING provided with a firman, and feveral letters of recommen- 
dation, I embarked at Buyukdere on the evening of the 23d of 
May on board a boat, for the purpofe of croffing the Black Sea. 
We quitted the harbour at midnight, and on the following morning 
at fix o'clock paifed the fecond callle on the European fide of the 
Bofphoriis. At the expiration of three hours we anchored in a bay 
to the north of the third caftle on the fame fide of the Bofphorus, 



464 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY r 

where we remained until nine in the evening, when we failed with 
the wind at north-eaft. On the morning of the 25th we appeared 
to have run about thirty-fix miles ; but the wind failing, our people 
were obliged to have recourfe to their oars. About ten o'clock 
A. M. the breeze frefhened ; and at four in the afternoon we paffed 
Midge, with very pleafant and agreeable weather. 

On the 26th, at ten in the morning, we were abreaft of Cape 
Baba, which, according to the computation of our crew, is diftant 
from Varna, in Bulgaria, about an hundred and twenty miles. At 
four in the afternoon we paffed the gulf of Poros Leman, and on the 
following morning, at one o'clock, anchored at the entrance of the 
gulf of Varna, the contrary wind oppofing our further progrefs. We 
failed at fun- rife, and about feven o'clock in the morning anchored 
near Varna, a town of Turkey in Europe, in the province of Bul- 
garia. 

I went on more at that place, and waited on the governor, Ofman 
Aga, for whom I had brought letters, and to whom I prefented my 
firman, in order that he might iffue the neceffary commands to ex- 
pedite me on my route to Rouzchook and Bouchareft. I took up 
my refidence in the mean time at the houfe of the Greek bifhop. In 
the evening I was informed that a party of Turks and Greeks were 
to fet out on the following morning for the fame deftination ; and 
of this favourable opportunity I availed myfelf without hefitation. 

At fcven in the morning of the 28th we left Varna, in a kind of 
covered waggons llightly conftrucled, called arabars, of which I was 
obliged to engage three, for myfelf, fervant, and luggage. Thefe 
vehicles are very fmall and narrow, fomewhat refembling our ammu- 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. .465 

nition waggons, and are drawn by one horfe. They are fo contrived 
as to enable the traveller to lay himfelf down at his full length ; and 
the hire of one of thefe conveyances, from Varna to Rouzchook, or 
Rutzig, on the eaftern bank of the Danube, a journey which occu- 
pies four or five days, is eighteen piaflres. During the early part of 
the day our road led through a woody and hilly country, interfperfed 
with a few wretched and folitary huts, the inmates of which were, 
however, hale and robuft. Towards the concluding part of the jour- 
ney we paffed through feveral fine, extenfive, and well cultivated 
vallies, abounding in different kinds of corn, and more particularly 
in rye. The woods confill of dwarf oaks, hazels, black and white 
thorns, and a very confiderable number of pear-trees; but there are 
few trees of a growth calculated for timber. In proportion to the 
cultivated lands there are but few villages. On the Hoping downs 
there are rich pafturages, in which we faw great numbers of oxen, 
cows, buffaloes, horfes, fheep, and goats. The breeds of horfes and 
oxen are fmall : the latter, and the buffaloes, are employed to draw 
the arabars of the peafants. The inhabitants of fome of the villages 
pay a particular attention to grazing ; while in others they grow 
corn, and cultivate vineyards. There are no enclofures, except thofe 
for the vineyards in the vicinity of the different villages. At half 
paft five in the evening we croffed a river, and halted on the oppo- 
site bank for the night. On account of the numerous hordes of rob- 
bers which infefled this country, we avoided as much as poffible the 
approach of any village, the difpofition of the inhabitants of which 
had not been well afcertained. 



466 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

We fet out at four in the morning of the 2Qth, and palled through 
a very fine and rich country, abounding in pafture grounds', on which 
numerous flocks and herds were grazing. We faw an abundance of 
poultry, feveral waggons laden with which we met on the road. 
Our journey was infinitely agreeable over fertile and richly cultivated 
plains, refembling thofe of the moft productive parts of England. 
At half paft eight o'clock we halted for two hours. We fell in with 
feveral caravans, or large companies of travellers; on our route, this 
being, from motives of fecurity, the cuftom of travelling in this 
country. The inhabitants, when abroad, are conftantly armed. 
The progrefs we made was at the rate of about three miles and a 
half in the hour ; and at half paft one o'clock we arrived at Yeni- 
pazzar, inhabited principally by Turks, with an inconfiderable num- 
ber of Greeks. The houfes are conftrucled of laths and plafter, with 
tiled roofs ; but the poorer clafs of inhabitants dwell in caves, over 
which a thatched roof is thrown. The town is furrounded by a 
mud wall, and a dry ditch, with a gate at each extremity. We 
made a fhort flay there ; and having afterwards proceeded to the 
diftance of fix miles, paffed through a village called Oukboudan, 
compofed of wretched thatched huts. At fix in the evening we 
halted at another poor village, called Tekerkew, where we palled 
the night. 

On the 30th we fet out at four in the morning, and at the end of 
two hours came to the village of Shemlah, where we made a halt. 
At half paft ten we reached another village, delightfully fituated at 
the fide of a fine wood of oak-trees. The furrounding fcenery was 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 467 

beautiful and romantic. At half paft fix in the evening we reached 
the vicinity of Rafgat, a large town, which contains feveral mofques, 
and there repofed ourfelves for the night. 

We fet out at the accuftomed early hour, on the 3lft, and in a 
little time reached the above place, where we fpent two hours in a 
han, or kann, deftined, as 1 have already explained, for the accom- 
modation of travellers and their beafts, as well as for the reception 
of the merchandize they carry with them. The town of Rafgat 
has two gates, and is furrounded by palifadoes and mud walls. The 
inhabitants are a mixture of Greeks and Turks. Having proceeded 
on our route, we halted for two hours in the middle of the day, and 
at feven in the evening took up, as ufual, our quarters for the night 
in our arabars. As foon as we had halted, a part of the caravan was 
formed into a guard, to keep watch for the night ; a neceffary pre- 
caution to prevent an attack, to which the traveller is continually 
expofed. 

On the lft of June we fet out at four in the morning, and at fix 
entered the town of Rouzchook, where I immediately took up my 
refidence in one of the hans. I had there the good fortune to meet 
with a Greek merchant named Keriyahcoh Polizio, who paid me 
the moft friendly attentions, and gave me the beft counfel for the 
further profecution of my journey. He had himfelf been obliged to 
fly from Buchareft, together with all the principal inhabitants, the 
confuls, and others, in confequence of the dreadful menaces of the 
banditti by whom the country was at that time defolated, and the 
approach of Pafwan Oglou's troops. The prince ftill remained there 
with a few of his followers ; but the confuls had deemed it more 



4 63 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

prudent to proceed to Cronftadt. I went with the above gentleman* 
to pay a vint to the dragoman of the Prince of Buchareft, then at 
Rouzchook, but who was on the point of his departure for Conftan- 
tinople, and who gave me a letter to the Capicahchiah at Georgival, 
to aid me on my route to Buchareft. Georgival is fituated on the 
weftern fide of the Danube ; and it is there that travellers from 
Rouzchook Hop to procure arabars, and whatever befides is neceffary 
for their journey by Buchareft to Vienna. I was, however, thrown 
into a great dilemma in the evening by the news which arrived from 
Buchareft, that the prince and his people had betaken themfelves to 
flight on account of the approach and menaces of Pafwan Oglou. 
This unlucky circumftance forced me to alter my plan, and to make 
new arrangements. 

Rouzchook is pleafingly fituated on the eaftern banks of the Da- 
nube, and is a place of confiderable extent, inhabited by Turks and 
Greeks. Being the only town poffeffing an open and free trade in 
that quarter at the time of my arrival, all the merchandize had been 
brought thither, and the bazars well fupplied with commodities of 
every defcription. In the courfe of the morning of the 2d a velTel 
arrived with merchandize and feveral paifengers, Germans, from 
Vienna, bound to Galatz in Moldavia* It was expected that fhe 
would profecute her voyage on the following day ; and as the dif- 
treffmg advices from Buchareft were confirmed, it was recommended 
to me to take a palTage in this veftel to Galatz, the Greek merchant 
engaging to fupply me with letters of recommendation, &c. to the 
Ruffian and Imperial confuls at Yaffi. 

I embarked on board the above vcfTel on the 4th at five in the 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 4 6 9 

morning. The captain fpoke a little Italian, though he was by birth 
a Greek. My fellow travellers confuted of an Italian, brother to 
the Imperial conful at Galatz, who fpoke the German language with 
much fluency, two Germans, and a Greek. Soon after we embarked 
the Iky became overcharged with heavy clouds, which indicated the 
approach of a ftorm, and induced our captain to wait for more fettled 
and favourable weather. It cleared up at three in the afternoon, 
when the anchor was weighed, and we got under way with a fmart 
breeze from the north, our crew firing a falute of mufketry, between 
each difcharge of which the Italian founded his trumpet. The wind 1 
fremened foon after to fuch a degree, that we were obliged to anchor 
a little below the town. 

We were detained on the 5th by the ftormy weather until two 
in the afternoon, when we took our departure, and in lcfs than half 
an hour paffed the town of Georgival. The current fetting in our 
favour, we made a pretty rapid progrefs by the aid of our twelve 
oars, and at half parr, feven in the evening came to anchor for the 
night. On the following morning we fet out before break of day 
and at three in the afternoon paffed Torkotai, a fraall town very 
romantically fituated on the banks of the Danube. The hills adja- 
cent to this town are laid out in fine vineyards, interfperfed with, 
bufthy trees: on the north- eaft fide there are hanging woods, which 
are continued for feveral miles, and have a very pleafing and piclu- 
refque effect. Oppofite to the town there are feven water mills, 
each of them dependant on two boats moored acrofs the river, in 
one of which the mill is placed, while the other fupports the wheeL 
.fta.ti.oned in the centre, between the two. On the prefent occafioa 



470 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

I had feen mills of this kind for the firft time ; but I was told that 
they are employed on every part of the Danube. When we had 
proceeded three or four miles from the town, our veffel ran aground 
on one of the fmall iflands which are fcattered in great numbers on 
the fides of the river ; and by this accident we were detained for 
upwards of an hour. Immediately oppofite to our pofition, on the 
eaftern fide of the river, we perceived a neighbouring village in 
flames, and concluded it to have been fet on fire by one of the bands 
of robbers by whom the country was infefted. At half paft feven 
in the evening we anchored on the weftern bank of the Danube, 
and nearly oppofite to Siliftria. The weather was at this time 
ftormy and unpleafant. One of the officers of our veffel immedi- 
ately went on more with the papers and paffport furnifhed to him 
by Pafwan Oglou at Belgrade ; but was defired to return again on 
the following morning. 

We weighed anchor on the 7th a little before noon, on the above 
officer coming on board with the neceffary permiffion, and were 
not long in paffing the town and caftle. The latter, and the de- 
fenfive works which have been thrown up, are of little importance. 
The town, built on the eaftern bank of the Danube, is of inconfider- 
able extent, and is fituated in the midft of a fine and fertile, but 
hilly country. The mills employed by the inhabitants are of the 
fame contrivance as at Torkotai. There are no lefs than fourteen 
mofques in Siliftria; but the houfes are as wretched as thofe of the 
greater part of the towns in Turkey. The adjacent hills are covered 
with fine vineyards, and with an abundance of lofty trees, to decorate 
the fcenery. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 471 

The day proved very fultry, with little or no wind ; but a {form, 
accompanied by thunder and lightning, coming on towards the 
evening, we anchored at fun-fet on the weftern fide of the river. 
We had noticed at three o'clock in the afternoon another village on 
fire ; and as foon as we came to anchor, a diftreffing fcene prefented 
itfelf to our view. A confiderable number of men, women, and 
children, the wretched victims of the conflagration we had witneffed, 
were affembled at the water-fide, and had conveyed thither the little 
property they could collecl together, confifting principally of arabars, 
oxen, and fheep. 

After having patTed a very fformy night, we weighed anchor on 
the 8th before day-light ; but the force of the wind augmented fo 
confiderably, that we were foon after obliged to anchor on the eafr. 
fide of the Danube. At Siliftria we had received on board three 
Turks, as guards ; our number, therefore, was now augmented to 
twenty-five individuals, confifting of Greeks, Germans, Italians, 
Englifh, Turks, and Wallachians. The latter, twelve in number, 
compofed the crew ; and, as the veffel was unprovided with fails, 
had a very laborious employment in rowing and fleering her when 
under way. The conftruclion of thefe veffels, which navigate the 
Danube with paffengers and merchandize, is fomewhat fmguiar, 
They are in length about an hundred and twenty feet, and in 
breadth eighteen, with a roof of planks, about fifty feet in length,, 
in the centre r which refembles the ridge of a houfe, and beneath 
which the mofl valuable merchandize and the paffengers are placed. 
Under this roof the traveller fancies himfelf rather in a houfe, or 
booth, than in a vefTel : over it there is a kind of terrace, about feven 



472 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

feet fquare, which may be confidered as a fpecies of kiofque,and which, 
as it commands a fine view of the fcenery on each fide of the river, 
affords a pleafing retirement in the evening. Thefe veffels, which 
are fo deeply laden that they fink as low in the water as our heavy 
barges, come from Vienna with goods of every defcription for Galatz 
and Yam* in Moldavia. They are provided, in the fore part, with 
twelve oars of a moderate fize ; two very large ones, which appeared 
to me to be from forty to fifty feet in length, at the bows ; and two 
others of the fame defcription at the ftern, to anfwer the purpofe of 
a helm, in regulating the direction of the vefTel. Being deftitute of 
mafts and rigging to fteady them, they are conftantly anchored near 
the fhore when it blows frefh, as well as in the night-time. 

On the weft fide of the Danube the country confifts of fine levels ; 
while, on the eaftern fide, its banks are fkirted by a chain of fertile 
hills, covered with fine woodland fcenery. This river has, towards 
its banks, a very confiderable number of fmall iflands, on which trees 
have been planted with a very agreeable effect. Its greateft breadth 
does not exceed a mile and a half. 

The weather was fo ftormy on the 8th that we were detained 
until half paft fe ven in the evening, when the anchor was weighed. 
We fhortly after faw a party of fugitives whom the banditti had 
attacked, afiembled on the eaftern bank of the river ; and at half 
paft eight o'clock were abreaft of Roffovat, a fmall, town fituated 
on the fame bank. Wc anchored at midnight, and repofcd our- 
fclves until three in the morning, when wc again profecuted our 
pafiage down the Danube, with the moft agreeable weather ima- 
ginable, but with melancholy reflections rcfulting from the wretched 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 473 

condition of the inhabitants, whom we faw difperfed on each 
fide on its banks. At half paft feven o'clock in the morning 
we pau^d Sooda, a fmall village fituated on a hill, on the eaftem 
fide of the river ; and at half paft eight were abreaft of another 
village on the fame bank, called Chekerge. At ten o'clock we were 
off Kerfevvai, or Girfow, a fmall town on the fame fide of the river, 
to which we fent on more for a fupply of provifions and wines. 
Near this place, on a rocky hill, there is a fmall and lnfignificant 
caftle fituated at the river fide, which had been attacked about eleven 
years before by the Ruffians, the remains of whofe works, by which 
the fortrefs was completely commanded, we faw, as they had been 
thrown up on the adjacent hills. It is faid that in the attack made 
by the Ruffians at Girfow, the Turks loft eighty thoufand men. 
At feven in the evening we pafTed a village, on the weftern bank, 
called by the Turks Bourockfen, and came to anchor an hour after. 
In our pafTage of this day we found the river had feveral abrupt and 
fudden turnings, and was in fbme places very narrow. 

On the 9th, at four in the morning, we weighed anchor, and 
foon after ran aground. The navigation of the river in this part 
is indeed rendered extremely intricate and difficult, by the fmall 
iflands thrown up, the pafTage between which draw the current ; 
infomuch that the conducting of our veffet, fo peculiarly conftrucled, 
required much caution and circumfpe&ion, to fhun the points of 
land at the different turnings. At half paft five o'clock in the 
morning we paffed a fmall village on the weftern bank, and at 
feven were abreaft of Ibrael, a town pleafantly fituated on the fame 
fide of the river, oppofite to which lay feveral veffels from the 

3 P 



474 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

Black Sea. We were delayed two hours by the perfon who was' 
fent to the above place with the pafs, which prevented us from 
reaching Galatz before twelve o'clock. Notwithftanding I was at 
fo great a diftance from my native home, the reflection that I was 
now in a land inhabited by chriftians, infpired me w T ith a tranquil- 
lity to which I had been long a ftranger. As foon as we had an- 
chored I landed with my baggage, and called on the Imperial con- 
ful, Signor Mangoli, with whom I dined, and was not a little fur- 
prifed in the afternoon at the appearance of an Engiifh courier, Mr. 
Duff, who was on his route from Conftantinople to Vienna. It gave 
me great fatisfaction to be enabled to accompany him on the 
following morning. Galatz is fituated in the territory of Molda- 
via, and is principally inhabited by the natives of the country. The 
land adjacent to it is level, as it alfo is on the oppofite bank. In- 
deed, during the laft two days of our navigation, the country on each 
fide of the river prefented but few uneven furfaces. 

Having procured three arabars and twelve horfes for our journey, 
we left Galatz at five in the morning of the loth ; and at half paft 
feven arrived at the village of Peke, the firft ftage, having performed 
a diftance of nearly twenty miles. The horfes of the country are 
fmall, but fleet, and on thefe journeys are kept conftantly on 
the gallop. We left the above village, the cottages of which are 
very neat, at eight o'clock, and a little after ten reached Korne, the 
fecond ftage. The country through which we palTed abounds in 
fine Hoping hills, having a rich foil, though but little attended to 
with refpecl: to cultivation. Where due pains are beftowed on 
them, however, they yield an ample produce of different kinds of 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 475 

grain. We left this village at half paft ten, and paffed through a 
fine country, abounding in dwarf oaks, which brought us to Rege, 
where we arrived at half paft twelve. We reached the next ftage, 
Borlat, a very refpeclable town, at three o'clock, and proceeded 
thence to Colineh, where we arrived at fix in the evening, and took 
refreshments at the poft-houfe. We next proceeded to Waflow, 
which we reached at nine o'clock ; and, finally, arrived at Ounchef- 
tey at midnight, glad to repofe ourfelves after fo long and fatiguing 
a journey. 

On thp 11th, at four in the morning, we left Ouncheftey, and 
arrived at Scenty an hour after. We were detained there for fome 
time, in confequence of one of the horfes having ftrayed from the 
poft-houfe ; and this prevented us from reaching Yaffi, the capital 
of Moldavia, a province of Turkey in Europe, until between eight 
and nine o'clock. We alighted at the houfe of the Imperial con- 
ful with whom we dined. On approaching the above place the 
country is beautifully romantic. 

We left Yaffi at three in the afternoon, and at half paft four ar- 
rived at Largah, where having made a fhort ftay, w T e again fet out, 
and arrived at Chepot at feven in the evening. The road leading 
from Yaffi to this place is very agreeable, over fine hills, which 
have not, however, the advantage of being well cultivated, the in- 
habitants appearing to attend to little more than their own imme- 
diate fupplies. The country is open, and entirely divefted of trees 
and fhrubs. Our next ftage led us, by an excellent road, to Streift, 
where we arrived at nine at night ; and proceeded thence to Borda- 

3 p 2 



476 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

fheen, which we reached at" midnight, and repofed ourfelves for a 
few hours. 

On the morning of the 12th, at four o'clock, we fet out for Dor- 
howe, a ftage which occupied us more than two hours, the road 
having been rendered very heavy by the rains which had fallen oh 
the preceding day. In feveral of the towns and villages of Molda- 
via the inhabitants confift principally of Jews, who are very nume- 
rous in every part of the country. The Jewifh females wear a pe- 
culiar head-drefs, with a large pearl ornament hanging at the fide 
of each cheek. From Dorhowe we proceeded, after a fhort flay, to 
Herts ; and thence to the ftation, near Chernowich, where the di- 
rector of the counter march refides. It is there that the quarantine 
is performed, and the paffports and baggage infpecled, previoufly to 
the entry of travellers into Germany. On our reaching Chernowich 
at one in the afternoon, we waited on the governor, who was abfent 
for the moment, and having proceeded to our inn, purchafed a calafh, 
a well known travelling carriage. Chernowich is a little town of 
Weft Gallicia, a part of the territory of Poland, pleafantly fituated 
at the fide of the river Prut. The inhabitants are principally Ger- 
mans, with a few Poles. We quitted this place at eight in the 
evening, as foon as our baggage had been fixed in the carriage ; 
and at midnight arrived at Snatten, where we allowed ourfelves but 
a fhort repofe. 

On the 13 th, at the early hour of one in the morning, we quit- 
ted the above place, and at half paft four arrived at Veno Gratz, or 
Guafditch, a pleafing and well-built town, fituated in the midft of a 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 477 

fertile country. In performing this ftage we had an excellent road. 
Our next ftages, each of which occupied from two hours to two hours 
and a half, were to Kotfmier, Slowmax, Stanitzflaf, and Alich, at 
the latter of which places we arrived at fix in the evening, without 
having met with any remarkable occurrence on our route. The 
country through which we palTed had an appearance of great ferti- 
lity, and abounded in beautiful woodlands. At Alich we faw the 
ruins of a caftle, fituated on an eminence, which had anciently be- 
longed to the kings of Poland. At feven in the evening we quitted 
that place for Borftem, whence we proceeded to Knenitch, where 
we arrived at midnight. 

We reached Strelitz at a very early hour on the morning of the 
14th, having made no other ftop on the road than that which the 
neceffity of changing horfes required, and arri ved at Bobberdah at five 
o'clock, after a haraffing journey over a rough and unpleafant road. 
Our fubfequent ftages were Davetoff, Limberg, BartadofF, and Cru- 
tuk, at the latter of which places we dined. The latter part of the 
road, in performing the above ftages, is highly agreeable, being raifed, 
and kept in excellent repair. For the diftance of feveral miles it 
rnns in a direct line, with beautiful trees planted on each fide. 
This part of Poland is flat, but very fertile, and contains many fine 
and extenfive woods of beeches and oaks. At half paft five in the 
afternoon we arrived at Wiftiuey, whence we proceeded to Mofchifca, 
Letch ing, Perrigal, and Radimno, the latter of which places we did 
not reach until one in the morning of the 15th. 

We proceeded thence to Yariflow, Prizwork, Lanzwork, Refliouf, 
Seneftiou, and Denbitzer, at which latter place we dined at two 



473 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

in the afternoon. Our route led us afterwards to Pilfnoh, and thence 
to Tarnow, a pleafant little town, containing feveral handfome edi- 
fices, and fituated in a fine rural country. In this part the road ftill 
runs in a direct line, and is kept in excellent order. The other ftages 
of this day's journey were Okemtz and Prefco, which latter ftage 
was not concluded until one in the morning of the 1 6th. 

The ftages we had to run on that morning were Pofnia, Gidow, 
and Wilifka, the latter fituated in the vicinity of Cracow, or Cra- 
covia. We flopped at this place, and w r ent to one of the directors 
of the fait works eftablifhed there. Permiffion having been obtained 
from Baron Verney, the governor of the eftablimment, we defcended 
the fait pits, in which we fpent three hours. During this interval 
we vifited a confiderable part of the works, which are, however, car- 
ried beneath the ground to fo confiderable an extent, that the pits 
are in depth a hundred and twenty-three fathoms ; and the defcent 
into the different palfages and fubterraneous apartments effected 
by the means of ropes attached to wheels worked by horfes. Thefe 
works find employment for nearly feven hundred people, who are 
conflantly engaged in digging and blowing up the rocks of fine fait. 
In addition to a governor and lieutenant-governor, there are four di- 
rectors, and an engineer, for their fuperintendance. They are the 
property of the Emperor of Germany. On the tops and at the fides 
of the paffages very beautiful cryftallizations of fait are formed, by 
the dripping of the water through the fait rock. I brought away 
feveral fpecimens of thefe cryftallizations ; and was prefent at the 
removal of one of the columns of fait, which are afterwards cut into 
lengths, and into a figure refembling an egg, for fale. To be brief ; 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. 479 

the fait works of Wilifka, in Poland, which run beneath nearly half 
the town, may certainly be deemed the fined in Europe ; and the 
fait extracted from them is of the pureft quality. After having dined 
with Mr. Wolf, the director, we took coffee with Baron Verney, the 
governor, and left Wilifka at five in the afternoon for Cracow, the 
capital of Poland, where we arrived an hour after. Cracow is a large 
town, walled in and fortified, with a river, Weiffel or Weiffer, run- 
ning near to its gates. It is well known that the kings of Poland 
were ufually crowned here. Our next ftages-were to Mofelainir 
Iftebnick, and Wadohwich ; and our arrival at the latter place 
brought us to midnight. 

On the morning of the 1 7th, at half pan: three o'clock, we arrived 
at Candy, a town fituated partly in Poland, and partly in Silefia. 
We proceeded from thence to Pelitz, and were now on the frontiers 
of Auftria. It is a handfome town, containing feveral good build- 
ings, and is fituated on a hill in a very agreeable country. Having 
quitted this place, we proceeded to Shottau, which has a few decent 
houfes, refembling, however, all thofe to be met with in this part of 
Germany, that is, white-wafhed and low built. Inftead of tiles, they 
are covered by fquares of wood, which in a little time acquire a dark 
colour, and give the roofs the appearance of being flated. In their 
fhape thefe houfes refemble fomewhat thofe of China. It being the 
feaft. of Pentecoft, or Whitfuntide, the inhabitants were, on our ar- 
rival, bufied in preparing for the proceffion which was to take place ; 
and the various utenfds employed at the mafs, together with the 
decorations of the chapels, were fixed on the walls in the form of 



480 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

altars, furmoimted by branches of the cyprefs and other trees. The 
inhabitants of Silefia are a diftinct people, having a language peculiar 
to themfelves. The country has a cheerful afpecl, but is not fo fer- 
tile as Poland. The women wear red or black {lockings, which, 
being plaited, make their legs appear uncommonly large. In front 
of a fhort petticoat, which does not reach below the knees, they 
wear a fhort blue apron ; and on the head a piece of white cotton, 
or linen, bound round as a handkerchief. About nine in the morn- 
ing we quitted Shottau, and proceeded to Tilhen, where we faw, 
on our arrival, the proceffion of the hoft, attended by an immenfe 
concourfe of people, in their beft attire. The military were drawn 
out to fire a falute, and the ftreets ftrewed with grafs for the paffage 
of the hoft, which was carried by the principal magiftrates. At two 
in the afternoon we arrived at Freduk, which is, as well as the pre- 
ceding place, an agreeable little town, containing feveral good build- 
ings. This part of the country is highly agreeable ; and the por- 
tions of feveral of the towns and villages are rendered charmingly 
picturefque by fine and extenfive woods and plantations of pines, 
firs, and other trees. We were detained at Freduk until half paft 
four o'clock by an accident which befel one of the wheels of our 
carriage. Having replaced this wheel by a more folid one, we pro- 
ceeded to Neiflifchene, a large and well built town, provided with 
a fortrefs, which we reached at feven in the evening. In the centre 
of this town, as well as of feveral others through which we paffed, 
there is a large fquare, furrounded by commodious and well-built 
houfes, beneath which are piazzas, with fhops for the fale of different 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. * 4 8i ■ 

merchandizes. Under the piazzas the inhabitants have a fheltered 
promenade in wet weather. We quitted the above place, and 
reached Weifkerk a little before midnight. 

At two in the morning of the 18th we paffed through a refpecl- 
able town called Lytniclz, and between the hours of three and four 
reached our firfr. ftage, Rofaugefs, having paffed over a very hilly and 
heavy road, in the midft of a violent florm, accompanied by thunder 
and lightning. From this place we proceeded to Oltmitz, a large, 
well built, and fortified town, which has, however, but an incon- 
fiderable trade. Our fubfequent ftages, on this day's journey, were 
Profnitz, Wifchau, Poforzitz, Brinn, a large and populous fortified 
town, provided with a citadel, and containing feveral handfome 
buildings ; Clay, Mariheif, Nivolfcopurg, and Porfdorf. 

We were now approaching Vienna, having fix ftages only to per- 
form. On the 3-gth we paffed fucceffively through Wilferfdorf,' 
{jirnerfdorf, Wulnerfdorf, Crizerfdorf, and Tarmerfdorf, making at 
each of thefe places the neceffary halt to change horfes, and at eleven 
in the morning were fafcly arrived in the capital of the Imperial 
dominions. 

Having procured a lackey to accompany me, and point out what 
was moil deferving. of notice at Vienna, I paid a vifit to Mr. Stewart, 
fecretary of legation, and left a letter of recommendation from Mr. 
Stratton to the Britim minifter, Mr. Paget. I dined with feveral 
Englifh gentlemen, at the Augarten, the faloon of which is very 
handfome, and the gardens prettily laid out and embellifhed. We 
went afterwards to the prater, or promenade, without the town.- 

* 3 Q 



* 4 fci TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

where a great number of people of all ranks and clafTes were afTem- 
bled. We fpent the evening at the imperial theatre. 

Doctor Carro, a phyfician of celebrity at Vienna, to whom I had 
an introduction, was at this time engaged in the practice of the vac- 
cine inoculation, and informed me, on my paying him a morning's 
vifit, on the 21 ft, that he had had five hundred cafes, all of which 
had been attended with the moft complete fuccefs. In the after- 
noon I vifited the cathedral church of St. Stephen, a very neat and 
compact building. A party w T as made in the evening for the Wid- 
den theatre, fituated without the town, where the French opera of 
Alcefte was well performed. The price of admiffion to this theatre, 
which is a very handfome edifice, is one florin only, a much more 
reafonable rate of entrance than at our theatres. 

On the 22d I went to the church of St. Michael, and thence to 
the imperial library, a very fine building, containing a commodious 
fuite of apartments, fupplied, it is faid, with upwards of two hundred 
thoufand volumes, comprehending the moft rare books in every lan- 
guage. Adjacent to the great hall there is a reading-room, which is 
opened daily at certain hours to the public : an individual can have 
the ufe of any book within this room. I proceeded thence to the 
menage, where every one is at liberty to enter and ride at certain 
hours. In the evening I vifited the imperial theatre, or, as it is 
ftyled, Theatre de la Cour, where an Italian opera was performed, and 
followed bv a ballet. Like all the German theatres, this edifice has 
2l very gloomy appearance, on account of the want of lights within- 
fide. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. *- 4 83 

t^olqnel Holloway and Major Hope, having arrived at Vienna in 
the courfe of the preceding night, I dined in their company on the 
23d with Mr. Paget, the Britilh minifter, at Dibling, a fmall village 
near Vienna, very pleafmgly fituatcd at the fide of the Danube. The 
party was entirely Englifh. In the evening we went to the theatre 
to fee an Italian opera. 

On the 24th I vifited the library and beautiful and choice cabinet 
of medals. I was mown feveral very ancient manufcripts, and rolls 
of papyrus. Among the books of antique date were an edition of the 
Pfalms in Gothic characters, printed at Mentz in 1-15 7, a nd Pliny's 
Natural Hiftory, printed at Venice on vellum in 1408. I accom- 
panied Dr. Carro in the afternoon to the general hofpital, a very 
extenfive building, kept in the belt order. In the evening I went 
to the Widden theatre to fee the performance of Richard Cceur de 
Lion. 

On the morning of the 25th I vifited the cabinet of natural hif- 
tory, which contains a very fine and extenfive collection of mine- 
ralogy. Dr. Gall, a phyfician at Vienna, in a party this day, at 
which I was prefent, gave a fingular opinion on the brain and its 
functions, in which he broached a new but dangerous doctrine. In 
expatiating on the functions of this organ, he argued the poffibility 
of difcovering the various inclinations and capacities by the ftructure 
of the fkull, and by its elevations and depreffions. In doing this, he 
dwelt on the important truths and conclufions which would refult 
from the eftablifliment of fiich a doctrine, to the manifeft advantage 
of medicine, morals, education, legiflation, &c. together with the 
promotion of a more perfect knowledge of mankind in general. In 



# 4 84 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

laying down the principles which he was defirous to apply to future 
obfervations, he advanced, firft., that capacities and inclinations are 
innate in man and brutes : fecondly, that thefe capacities and incli- 
nations are feated in the brain : and laftly, that both the capacities 
and inclinations being effentially different from and independent of 
each other, they muft confequently originate in different parts of the 
brain, between which there is a like independence. 

On the 26th I vifited the hofpital of the infane, called la Tour drs 
Foux, at Rolfau. In this lofty and capacious building between two 
and three hundred perfons of both fexes are confined, in apartments 
kept in the niceft order. An anecdote is recorded of the Emperor 
Jofeph the fecond, that having caufed an apartment to be fitted up 
for himfelf at the top of this tower, or building, to enjoy the advan- 
tage of a fine and extenfive profpeef , one of the inmates attacked him 
in a farcaflic epigram, inferibed on the wall. It is well known that 
this Emperor indulged in many extraordinary fancies and wild fpe- 
culations ; and accordingly the attack was couched in the following 
words, in the form of an epitaph : — " Hie jacet Jojephus Secimdus„ 
<c hie primus, ubique fecundus" 

On the 2/th I vifited the imperial palace at Scombrun, a very 
fuperb building, {landing in a delightful fituation, and embellifhed 
by beautiful walks, gardens, fountains, fcatues, grottoes, and plcafure- 
grounds, all open to the public. I was conducted to the menagerie, 
and thence to the obfervatory, which affords a fine and extenfive 
view of Vienna and its environs. On my way to Scombrun I entered 
a church at the village of Hcrrals, where I was (hewn the model of 
the fepulchre of our Saviour at Jerufalem, with other curiofities of 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. * 4 8^ 

a fimilar kind. Having feen the original fepulchre, it was not diffi- 
cult for me to afcertain that the model was deftitute of all refem- 
blance. 

Having dined at Schombrun, I made an excurfion to Dornbach, 
a very agreeable and rural feat, which had been the refidence of the 
late Field-marmal Lacy. It was open to the public, as is indeed the 
cafe with all the imperial buildings. This indulgence renders an 
abode at Vienna very agreeable. 

On the 28th I vifited the arfenal, in the armoury of which the 
fmall arms, in very confiderable numbers, are prettily and fancifully 
arranged. I went afterwards to view the very extenfrve collection 
of fine pictures, upwards of thirteen hundred, many of them the 
productions of the moft celebrated matters, at Belvidere ; but was 
prevented, by want of time, from infpecting them with a due atten- 
tion. Having made an arrangement with Colonel Holloway and 
Major Hope to quit Vienna on the following morning, I took up my 
refidence at their inn, to be prepared for an early departure. 

The fhort flay which I made at Vienna prevents me from attempt- 
ing a more circumftantial account of this city and the environs, 
which are well worthy the notice of travellers. The inhabitants are 
extremely hofpitable ; and the necelTary articles of life are at mode- 
rate prices. 



TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 



CHAPTER XXII. 

JOURNEY THROUGH GERMANY L1NTZ — GLANDULAR SWELLINGS — DRESS 

OP THE WOMEN IN BAVARIA HOUSES RATISBON FRANCONI A 

DRESS OF THE FEMALE PEASANTS WURTZBURG THE PALACE CITA- 
DEL AND BRIDGE ESSELB ACH- — ESCHAFFENBERG DETTINGEN HA- 

NAU FRANKFORT KOENIGSTEIN SELTZER WATER LIMBOURG 

DOWZ DUSSELDORF SEAT OF THE PRINCE PALATINE DRESS OF THE 

PEASANTS DUYSBOURG WESEL ARNHEIM ROADS IN HOLLAND 

FACE OF THE COUNTRY AND CULTIVATION UTRECHT ROTTERDAM 

HELVOETSLUYS ARRIVAL IN ENGLAND. 

the 2Qth of June we quitted Vienna at half paft five in the 
morning, and at eight o'clock arrived at Burkerfdof, whence, 
without lofs of time, we proceeded to the fecond ftage, Sichartfkir- 
chen, which we reached at half paft ten o'clock. Our route was over 
a very delightful country, abounding in woods, Hoping hills, and well 
cultivated vallies planted with corn. Our next ftages conducted us to 
Perfchling, St. Polten, and Molk, at the latter of which places 
there is a fine benedicline convent, moft opulently endowed. We 
arrived there about fix in the evening, and halted for the night. 
During this day's journey we made a progrefs of about fifty-fix 
miles. 

We left Molk at five in the morning of the 30th, and at half paft 
feven arrived at Kcmmeback, by good roads, which led over a very 
fine and fertile country. We proceeded thence, by direel; ftages, to 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. * 4 8 7 

Amftatten, Stringberg, Ens, and finally to Lintz, a fmall, but hand- 
fomc and well-built town, which we reached at fix in the evening, 
and halted for the night. I noticed that in this part of the country 
glandular tumours in the throat were very common among the wo- 
men. 

On the 1 ft of July we performed four ftages, in the courfe of 
which nothing particular occurred. We quitted Lintz in the 
morning, at the ufual early hour, and having fucceffively flopped at 
the pods of EfFerding, Beyerbach, and Sigarding, arrived at Schard- 
ing at three in the afternoon, halting there for the night. We 
were now about to quit the Auftrian territory, and to enter on that 
of Bavaria. 

We fet out from Scharding, on the 2d, at half paft five in the 
morning, and arrived at Vilmoven, in the Bavarian territory, at 
eleven o'clock. In this part of the country the drefs of the females, 
which confifts of a fable garment, and a very large round black hat, 
appeared to us very fingular. We arrived at Plathing at an early 
hour in the afternoon, when we defifted, for that day, from the fur- 
ther profecution of our journey. 

Nothing can exceed in richnefs and luxuriance the Auftrian ter- 
ritory through which we pafted after our quitting Vienna : not an 
acre of uncultivated land was to be feen. In Bavaria the foil is not 
fo good, nor are the dwellings of the inhabitants equally refpeclable. 
They are conftructed of wood, with fmall cabin windows. The 
Bavarians are a healthy, robuft, and well looking people. 

At five in the morning of the 3d we left Plathing, and in purfuing 
our route to Ratifbon, where we arrived at half paft twelve o'clock. 



* 4 88 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

pa{Ted through the ftages of Straubing, and Pfaver. Ration, the 
capital of Bavaria, is a fortified town fituated on the bank of the 
Danube, The fur rounding country is level, and produces much 
corn, together with an inconfiderable quantity of hops. The roads 
in general, on the Bavarian territory, are excellent. On our 
reaching Ratifbon wc waited on Mr. Oakley, the Britilh minifter, 
who was abfent at the moment, but who called on us in the 
evening at our inn. 

On our departure from Ratifbon, early in the morning of the 4th, 
we croffed and quitted the Danube. It was near eight o'clock 
before we reached Schambac, by a heavy and uneven road; and were 
detained there until half pall ten by the crazy condition of our car- 
riages, which required Tome time to repair. The roads were Hill 
rough and bad, which prevented us from reaching the next ftage, 
ThTvvan, until noon. The face of the country, however, began to 
improve. Our fubfequent ftages were Tenning and Pofbour, the 
latter of which we reached in the afternoon. 

Our ftage from Pofbour to Feucht, on the morning of the 5th, 
was over a heavy and fandy road which palled through extenfive 
woods of firs and pines. We had now entered Franconia, where 
the drefs of the female peafants differs effentially from that of the 
Bavarian women of the fame clafs. The petticoat is worn of a 
greater length ; and inftead of the large and clumfy black felt hat, 
they wear a light one of ftraw, which, combined with the other 
parts of their drefs, gives them a neat and agreeable appearance. 
The houfes of the peafants are built of {tone, with high well-tiled 
roofs, and with their gable ends towards the ftrect. At half paft fix 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. * 4 8 9 

o'clock we left Feucht for Nuremberg, a large and well-built for- 
tified town. In performing the next ftage we paffed through Firtz, 
diftant five miles from the latter place, a fmall but neat town, very 
pleafingly fituated in a flat and fertile corn country. From Forn- 
back, our next ftage, we proceeded to Emfkirken, and thence to 
Langerfeld and PofTenheim, the latter bringing us to our evening's 
halt. 

The firft ftage from PofTenheim to Kitzing, we performed on the 
morning of the 6th. The country is rich, and abounds in corn fields 
and vineyards. The road to Wurtzburg pafTes through a fine open 
country, the gently floping hills being laid out in vineyards and 
fields of corn. Wurtzburg is a fortified town, very pleafingly fituated 
in a rich valley. It is the feat of an univerfity ; and, in addition to 
its very handfome cathedral, contains feveral fine churches. The 
palace of the Prince of Wurtzburg is a very fuperb building. In 
this place, which contains about ten thoufand inhabitants, there are 
many handfome edifices belonging to the more opulent individuals. 
The citadel is on the oppofite fide of the river, which we crofied by 
a fine bridge, and arrived at Rofbrun by excellent roads and 
through a charming country, which has a great refemblance to 
Poland. From Rofbrun we proceeded to EfTelbach, over good roads 
which led through a hilly country. We arrived there at half paft 
three in the afternoon, and as we could not obtain horfes to take us 
forward, were obliged to remain there for the night. 

We quitted Eflelbach on the 7th, at five in the morning, and 
proceeded to Rohrburn and Efichaffenburg, a tirefome journey over 
rough and bad roads, in a hilly territory, planted with woods of 



•490 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

beech, through which our road led. Being obliged to wait for 
horfes at the latter of thefe places, we dined at the Three Crowns 
Inn, where we paid a moll: extravagant charge. We arrived at Dct- 
tingen at two in the afternoon; and at half pad four reached Hanau, 
an agreeable, neat, and well-built town, which contains a cathe- 
dral church, and feveral handfome public edifices. It belongs to 
the principality of HefTe, and is regularly fortified. The foil in 
the vicinity of this place is fandy, and produces fine crops of corn, 
potatoes, and other vegetables. The roads leading to and from 
the town are delightful, having on each fide rows of trees regularly 
planted. Thefe avenues are very long, and afford a charming prof- 
peel:, as well as an agreeable fhade. 

On quitting Hanau to proceed to Frankfort, we paused near the 
palace of the Prince of HefTe, very agreeably fituated to the left of 
the town. The road to the latter place is kept in excellent order, 
and paffes through a level country, well cultivated, and the foil of 
which is very rich. On our arrival, at feven in the evening, we took 
up our abode at the White Hart, a good and commodious inn. 
Frankfort is feated upon the river Main, and is a fortified town, 
containing about forty thoufand inhabitants. The ftreets are well 
paved and clean, and the buildings handfome. The garrifon con- 
fids of about three hundred Heffians. Frankfort has long been dif- 
tinguithed by its very extenflve commerce, as well as by the fairs 
which are reforted to by merchants and dealers of every nation in 
Europe. The inhabitants of this place and of Hanau have a great 
refemblance, in their drefs and general appearance, to the Englifli.- 
We were bulled on the 8th, in making our arrangements, and in 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. %0 

putting our carnages into a ftate of repair, to fet out for Cologn on 
the following morning. We had hefitated whether we fhould pro- 
ceed thither by land or water : the former mode was, however, con- 
fidered as the moll eligible. 

On the 9th, at five in the morning, we quitted Frankfort, and 
arrived at Koenigftein at eight o'clock. The firft part of the road 
is fandy; but on approaching the above place it becomes hard and 
rocky. Adjacent to the town we faw, on an elevated and rocky 
ground, the remains of a fortrefs, which about five years before had 
been befieged and taken by the French, who had blown up the 
caftle and works, and deftroyed the greater part of the houfes of the 
place, which belongs to the principality of Mentz. At noon we 
arrived at Wurges, a poor village in the province of Weftphalia, after 
a journey over rough and heavy roads, interfering a hilly and woody 
country, abounding in oaks, pines, firs, and beeches. Having quitted 
Wurges, we paffed, at the end of an hour and a half, the celebrated 
fpring which fupplies the Seltzer water, fo denominated from the 
adjacency of this fpring to the place which bears that name. We 
flopped at a neighbouring village, and drank a bottle of the water, 
mixed with rhenilh wine. It did not appear to me to be fo agree- 
able to the palate as the artificial water made in imitation of it by 
a philofophical procefs. It is fold in long ftone bottles, containing 
from three pints to two quarts, one of which coil fix krutzers ; but 
the water, without the bottles, bears half that price only. We were 
informed that this fpring is at prefent the property of the Prince of 
Orange, who, we were alfo told, had paid it a vifit on the day pre- 
ceding our arrival. At that time it was let to a private individual 

*3 R 2 



* 4 g2 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

for a year. I fhould have mentioned that a building is erected over 
it, and that it is conftantly guarded by a centinel. The peafants and 
laborious clafles in the neighbourhood drink the water, as a cooling 
and refrefhing beverage, in lieu of beer or wine. In other cafes it is 
blended with the latter of thefe liquors as a common drink. The 
women of Seltzer carry it on their heads in bottles for fale. The 
foil in the neighbourhood of the fpring is a reddifh earth, mixed with 
flate. 

At three in the afternoon we arrived at Limbourg, where we halted 
for the night. Notwithstanding this is one of the principal towns of 
Weflphalia, the houfes are very indifferent, and the ftreets very 
narrow. It is fituated in a flat country, and adjacent to it there is an 
extenfive manufactory of potters' ware, in which the bottles contain- 
ing the Seltzer water are made. 

We quitted Limbourg on the 1 oth, at half paft five in the morn- 
ing; and at eight o'clock arrived at Gubroth. In performing this 
flage we pafTed through a fine corn country, embellifhed by wood- 
lands and lawns. Our next flage brought us to Frelingen by a very 
rough and bad road leading through a hilly and rocky country 
abounding in woods. At this place the habitations are wretched 
cabins, built of laths and mud, and quartered. The buildings in 
general, in this part of the country, are much inferior thofe we 
had met with in Auflria, and even in Franconia and Bavaria. There 
is at the fame time a greater proportion of uncultivated lands. The 
woods confifl, for the greater part, of oaks and beeches. Rye is the 
defcription of grain more particularly cultivated ; and of this bread 
is made for common ufe. It is very black, and has an unpleafant 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. *493 

tafte to thofe who are not accuftomed to its ufe, but is held in great 
efteem by the inhabitants, who give it to their horfes on the road, 
when they flop to bait and water. At half paft one o'clock we ar- 
rived at Walmerode by an old neglected chauffee, fo uneven and 
rocky as to render our travelling very harafling and painful. We 
paffed through a woody country abounding in corn. Our laft ftage 
this day was to Weyerfbach, where we arrived at half paft four in 
the afternoon, after having paffed over a bad road fimilar to that of 
the preceding ftage. Our carriages had fufFered fo much by the de- 
plorable condition of the roads we had latterly met with, that at 
this place it became abfolutely neceffary to repair them. 

We left Weyerfbach on the 1 1 th at a very early hour, and arrived 
fucceffively at Echerot and Seigbourg, the latter of which places we 
reached at ten o'clock. The roads were ftill rough and uneven, but 
in fome degree improved. The intermediate country is hilly, and 
abounds in woods and commons, with large tradls of land cultivated 
in corn. In the vicinity of Seigbourg, the land flattens : clofe to 
the town there is, however, a rugged hill, having on its fummit an 
extenfive monaftery. The town, which is of inconfiderable extent, 
is furrounded by a wall, and is very indifferently built. We quitted 
it at half paft ten in the morning, and at three in the afternoon ar- 
rived at Douz, by a tolerably good road, which led over a level coun- 
try, having a loofe and fandy foil. We halted there for the night. 

It having been recommended to us to take the route to Rotter- 
dam, by DulTeldorf, in preference to that of Calais by Cologn, we 
left Douz on the 1 2th at fix in the morning. The latter is a fmall 
town, containing a few neat buildings, fituated on the right bank oi 



*494 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

the Rhine, immediately oppofite to Cologn, which appeared, from 
the diftant view we had of it, to be a very fine and extenfive place. 
At nine o'clock we arrived at Langenfield, fituated in an agreeable 
and open level country, which fupplies ample harvefts of fine clover, 
oats, and buck wheat. We fet out from this place, after a fhort (lay, 
and arrived at Duffeldorf at noon. On our route thither we flopped 
at the feat of the Prince Palatine, called Bendrad, a very beautiful 
fpot. The country through which we paffed has an open furface, 
and is well cultivated, principally in corn lands. The town of Duf- 
feldorf, fituated on the right bank of the Rhine, contains a few 
good buildings, and was formerly a fortified place. The greater part 
of the houfes are conftrucled of red bricks, and tiled over. During 
our flay at this place we met with General Harold, by birth an 
Irifhman, who had been forty years in the fervice of Auflria. He 
informed us that during the late war, when the French befieged and 
took the place, they deftroyed both the palace and the works. We 
faw the remains of the latter, in the ruinous condition in which they 
were left. We proceeded from DufTeldorf to Duyfbourg. The 
drefs of the peafants, who wear a blue frock, has a great refemblance 
to that of the Englifh peafants. The breed of cows, fpotted black 
and white, is large and beautiful. We faw but few fheep, of a fmall 
breed, but prettily fhaped. 

At this place the luggage is examined to prevent the paffage of 
any thing contraband; but we extricated ourlclves from the incon- 
venience that would have attended a fearch, by a prefent of a few 
florins. The town contains a few good buildings, and is furrounded 
by a level, enclofed country. 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. *495 

We left Duyfbourg at five in the morning of the 13th, and at the 
diftance of about two miles croffed the river Ruhr, which empties 
itfelf into the Rhine. The roads were extremely heavy and fandy, 
infomuch that we did not reach Wezel until ten o'clock. Notwith- 
ftanding this part of the country is enclofed, we met with much un- 
cultivated land in the courfe of this ftage. Wezel is a fmall but 
neat frontier town. The ftreets are well paved, and have on each fide 
a row of fine trees. We were detained there three hours by a want 
of horfes ; and after having paffed over a very heavy and fandy 
road, arrived at Reis at half pafh four in the afternoon. In this part 
the country is enclofed, and is highly productive in corn. The gar- 
dens belonging to the inhabitants are prettily laid out, and are kept 
in the niceft order. The houfes are fmall, but neatly fitted, and are 
conflructed of red bricks, and tiled, with the gable ends towards the 
ftreet. . 

We were detained on the 14th, by the want of horfes, until nine 
o'clock, when we proceeded on our journey. At the middle of the 
ftage the poftillions halted to bait the horfes, which was, according to 
the cuftom of the country, done by giving them flices of rye-bread, 
of which they are remarkably fond, and afterwards a drink of water. 
At half pail eleven we paffed near the fmall town of Emerick, and 
an hour after were immediately oppofite to Cleves on the other bank 
of the river. The road is good ; and the country through which 
it paffes enclofed. The foil, which is of a loofe, fandy texture, 
fupplies abundant crops of barley and oats. At one o'clock we 
reached Eltam, a fmall but neat town, at which we flopped to take 
refrefhments. We paffed afterwards through a fmall town called 



* 4 p6 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

Seven ; and at half paft five in the afternoon crofTed a bridge of 
boats thrown over the Mel. We were now within the limits of the 
Dutch territory ; and in the fpace of half an hour arrived at Arn- 
heim, where we took up our quarters for the night. In the courfe of 
this day's journey the roads were in general good, but in fome places 
rather heavy. The country through which we paffed is level, en- 
clofed, and produces abundance of corn. The entrance to Arnheim 
is very agreeable ; and the works kept in good repair. The town is 
remarkably neat, and the ftreets paved, rounded, and kept very clean. 
The houfes, which are built of brick and tiled over, have a very neat 
and compact appearance. 

The town of Arnheim is pleafantly lituated on the right bank of the 
Rhine, near to which there are feveral fine Hoping hills, to the right 
of the town, covered with beautiful woods and groves. With the 
exception of thefe hills the furrounding country is flat, and divided 
into fmall enclofures. The breed of large and fine horfes, commonly 
called the Flanders breed, is employed here, as it is in many parts of 
Germany, for the team and the plough. The dairies produce ex- 
cellent butter and cheefe. The milk-women carry the milk on 
their moulders in large brafs veflels, whicl* are kept remarkably clean 
and bright. 

On the 15th in the morning we quitted Arnheim at half pafl: five 
o'clock, and were much gratified on our way by the extreme neat- 
nefs of the cultivated grounds, which furnifhed a ftrong evidence of 
the ability and induftry of the agriculturifts. The neat and com- 
pact appearance of the Dutch houfes and gardens, together with the 
plain decent drefs of the inhabitants, furpafled, with refpeel to clean- 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. * 497 

linefs and propriety, all that we had before feen on our route. The 
roads in Holland, leading along the dams, or caufeways, are excellent. 
Nothing can be urged againft them, unlefs it be their narrownefs, 
which requires fome caution and circumfpeclion, as well as an ex- 
treme fobriety, on the part of the drivers. This is a fine country 
for corn and grafTes ; and here the willows grow in abundance, with 
an extraordinary luxuriance. At the lame time that woods are no 
where to be met with, there is not any deficiency of timber ; and 
accordingly we met on our route with a confiderable number of allies, 
poplars, elms, and afpens, together with a few oaks. To this lift 
may be added an abundance of apple and walnut trees. 

Fruits of every defcription known in Europe, are, as well as the 
different vegetable productions, in equal plenty ; and it may be faid 
with truth, that few countries are better fupplied with the more ef- 
fential articles of life than Holland. In the village gardens, and 
grounds adjoining to the dwellings, the tobacco plant is cultivated 
with great fuccefs. 

We halted at half paft feven o'clock, to enable the horfes to bait : 
they were fed with bread in the fame way as before noticed. Having 
profecuted our journey, we arrived at a fmall houfe, directly oppo- 
lite to Rhenen, an inconfiderable town on the right bank of the 
Rhine, furrounded, however, with fine vineyards. At this place we 
had to crois the river in a flat boat, or ferry, kept exprefsly there, to 
convey paflengers, and their carriages and luggage, to the other fide. 
Having quitted, by this conveyance, the left bank, and again fet 
forward on our route, we loon after palTed near the little but neat 

*3S 



*498 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

town of Arneron, embellifhed by avenues of fine elms and oaks, and 
furrounded by groves and agreeable walks. No country could be 
more pleafing than that through which we were now paffing ; and 
in fpite of the emotions we felt on a recollection of the charming ro- 
mantic, fcenery, and picl:urefque views of Auftria, ftill we could not 
help regarding Holland as the land of real comfort and delight to 
the traveller. At half pall one we arrived at Vag Doufted, a 
fmall town, which we merely lkirted in paffing, and took fome re- 
frefhment in the fuburb, while the horfes were baiting. At half paft 
five in the afternoon we arrived at Utrecht, where we repofed after 
our fatigues. The fpring j of one of our carriages having been 
broken, it was neceflary to put it in a good condition for the 
following day. 

Utrecht is a large and handfome town, containing many good 
buildings, the ftudied and uniform neatnefs of which muft attract the 
admiration of every paffenger. In the centre of each of the ftreets 
a canal runs, on which veffels and boats are constantly navigating, 
for traffic and pleafure. On each fide of thefe canals a row of fine 
trees, nicely trimmed, is planted ; and over them bridges are thrown 
at convenient diftances, to conduct the paflengers from the one fide 
of the ftreet to the other. This arrangement has a very agreeable 
efTccl:, to which the cleanlinefs of the ftreets, carefully paved on each 
fide, contributes not a little. We were lodged at the hotel called 
the new caftle on the Gaufenmarkt. The landlord of this hotel fpeaks 
Englifh ; and did not, as we had fome reafon to apprehend, make us 
pay for the trouble he had taken to acquire this knowledge of a fo- 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. * 499 

reign tongue. His charges were moderate ; and he treated us befides 
with great civility. 

On the 16th, at half paft five in the morning, we quitted Utrecht, 
the works of which attracted our notice on paffing without the gates. 
They were in the niceft order ; as were alfo the roads, which led 
through avenues of fine chefnuts and elms, affording cool and fhady 
walks in the warm feafon. Boats filled with paffengers and mer- 
chandizes are drawn by horfes ftationed on the banks of the canals, 
and are thus conveyed to and from the town. In this way the in- 
habitants are enabled to travel at a cheap and eafy rate, and to reach 
the other canals, by which the Batavian territory is every where in- 
terfered. Our road pafTed along the bank of one of thefe canals, at 
the fide of which we noticed feveral neat and pretty villas, belong- 
ing to the inhabitants of Utrecht, with gardens laid out in the niceft 
tafte and order. The fmalleft and pooreft cottage which we met 
with on our route, difplayed an air of cheerfulnefs and neatnefs 
which announced the comparatively eafy and comfortable condition 
of the humble inmates to whom it furnifhed an afylum. In this 
part of Holland the lands for the greater part are laid out in pafturage. 
There is, however, a partial produce of wheat, barley, and oats, to- 
gether with peas, vetches, clover, and hay. The harvefts of hay and 
barley were at this time juft commenced; but the ripening of the 
wheat and oats ftill appeared to require two or three weeks. 

We halted on our way to bait the horfes ; and between eight and. 
nine o'clock pafTed through a fmall town called Ahwahter, the works 
and buildings of which were in the fame admirable order with thofe 

* 3 s 2 



* 5 oo TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

we had hitherto feen in our route through a confiderable part of 
Holland. Every thing, in Ihort, announced the profperity of the 
inhabitants ; and in every dwelling cheerfulnefs and tranquillity ap- 
peared to refide. Hitherto the roads, on this day's journey, were 
excellent, and planted with fine avenues of trees. At nine o'clock 
we arrived at Aftracht, a fmall village, where we baited our horfes. 
Every part of the country being interfered by dykes, or canals, it 
was curious to obferve, that almoft every houfe fituated without 
the towns or villages, being furrounded and enclofed by water, was 
provided with a bridge placed before the entrance. Near the great 
towns draw-bridges are employed for this purpofe. At ten o'clock 
we paffed through Terchoh, a fmall and neat town, ftanding in a 
delightful fituation. The fronts of the houfes, which are well built, 
and in nice order, are fliaded with trees ; and in the middle of the 
ftreets there are canals, with bridges thrown over them, fimilar to 
thofe I have already defcribed. On leaving this place we entered on 
an excellent road, paved with Dutch clinkers, and having at each 
fide a row of beautiful elms. This road, we were told by our pof- 
tillions, would conduct us to Rotterdam, a diftance of ten miles, 
without any variation in its embellishments, and in the fame perfect 
ftate of repair. At half paft ten o'clock we paffed through a fmall 
town, confifting of one principal {facet only ; but which, for the 
neatnefs and cleanlinefs both of the dwellings and inhabitants, ex- 
ceeded all that we had feen before. At eleven o'clock we halted to 
bait our horfes, and take refrefhments ; and again fet forward at 
noon. In approaching Rotterdam, the pafhire-grounds are excel- 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. * 5 oi 

lent, and are filled with cattle of the Flemifh breed, fuch as I have 
already noticed. We entered the fuburbs, and were furprifed at the 
neatnefs, and even elegance, of the buildings, each of which has a 
draw-bridge in its front. The gardens are laid out with great tafte, 
and prettily embellifhed. We reached Rotterdam at one o'clock, 
and took up our abode for the remainder of the day, and for the 
night, at the hotel called the Boor's Head, a good houfe, where 
Englilh. is fpoken. Rotterdam is a charming town, which con- 
tains about fixty thoufand inhabitants, who, in common with thofe 
of all the Dutch towns, are fenfible of the error into which they 
fell, when they folicited and favoured an alliance with the French. 
They will, indeed, have long to regret their dearly bought expe- 
rience. 

With the exception of a fhort route to the fea-fide, I had now 
completed my tour through Holland, with which I could not be 
otherwife than highly gratified. It is beyond a controverly, that 
the Dutch towns and dwellings are fuperior, in the efTential qualities 
of neatnefs and cleanlinefs, to thofe of any other country ; and of 
the juftnefs of this remark, which has been fo often made, we had 
the fulleft evidence at every place through which we palfed. The 
drefs of the inhabitants of a fuperior clafs, and of the tradefpeople, 
refembles, by its unadorned fimplicity, that of the Englifli quakers. 
To conclude : — Since my departure from Great Britain, I had not 
feen any country in which I could have refided fo cheerfully, and 
with fo much pleafure, as in Holland. 1 am fenfible, that in hazard- 
ing this opinion I am not in ftricl accordance with the definition 



* 5 'o2 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, 

which a great authority, Sir William Temple, has given of that 
country.* 

On the 17th, at feven in the morning, we embarked in a Dutch 
paffage-boat for Helvoetfluys ; but as it blew a frefh gale from the 
weftward, with Ihowery and uncertain weather, we were not able 
to reach our deftination, within fix miles of which we were landed 
at ten o'clock. Having procured carriages, we arrived at Helvoet- 
fluys at noon. The country through which we paffed is flat, and 
every where interfered with dykes. It is cultivated in corn, flax, 
clover, &c. 

On our arrival, we found the Diana, an Englilli packet, Captain 
Stewart, ready to fail, but waiting for a favourable wind. Under 
thefe circumftances we took up our refidence at the Englim hotel, 
where we were detained for the two following days. 

Helvoetfluys is a poor, but fortified town. An extenfive bafin, 
or dock, was, at the time of our arrival, under repair; and in the 
harbour were lying two fine mips of war recently built. 

On the 20th, the weather being more moderate than it had been 
for fome time paft, we were called early in the morning, and having 
embarked, failed at feven o'clock. The wind, which was north- 
weft, not being favourable, we were under the necefTity of making 

* This definition, which is Angular, and replete with aphorifms, is as follows : 
" Holland is a country where the earth is better than the air, and profit more in re- 
" queft than honour. Where there is more fenfe than wit ; more good nature than 
" good humour ; and more wealth than pleafure. Where a man would chufe rather 
" to travel than to live ; fhall find more things to obferve .than to defire ; and more 
<( perfons to eftecm than to love." 



SYRIA, AND EGYPT. * 5 o 3 

fhort tacks ; but, by the help of the tide, were clear of the flats at 
ten o'clock. Thefe flats, or fand-banks, are very numerous, and at- 
tended with much hazard. 

On the morning of the 21 ft, the wind having become more fa- 
vourable, from the eaft-fouth-eaft, land was defcried on the larboard 
quarter, at nine o'clock, by the feaman at the matt-head ; and at 
half paft ten we were gladdened by the view of what our captain 
announced to us to be Orfordnefs. At three in the afternoon we 
anchored at Harwich, where we immediately landed. I fhall not 
undertake to defcribe the fenfations I felt when I fet off to rejoin my 
family, after fo long an abfence ; nor fhall I attempt, what is beyond 
the gift of expreffion, to mark all the gratitude 1 felt to the Supreme 
Being, who had fafely conducted me through the many perils I had 
had to encounter, and to which I had been more particularly ex- 
pofed by my profeffional fituation with the British Military 
Mission. 



THE END. 



ADVERTISEMENT. 



THE Author has to regret that feveral inaccuracies, which arc, 
however, of fo trifling an import as not to derange the general conclufions 
his intelligent reader will draw, have found their way into the Meteoro- 
logical Tables at the clofe of the Appendix. They have been the refult 
of obftacles which it was impoflible for him to furmount, in the very 
peculiar fervice in which he was engaged, as well as of the frequent in- 
difpofitions to which he was fubjecled by the hazardous nature of that 
fervice. It is owing to thefe impediments that feveral interruptions have 
occurred in the above Tables. In offering this plea, the force of which, 
he is confident, will be candidly acknowledged, to the general reader, he 
takes an opportunity to addrefs himfelf more particularly to the profef- 
fional gentlemen into whofe hands his work may fall, on the fubjecl: of 
the Appendix itfelf. In giving his medical notes in the ftate in which 
they were penned, at the time when the difeafes and incidents occurred 
to which they refer, without change of the order and method he purfued^ 
and without the introdu&ion of the fpeculative reafonings he might have 
employed, he has been perfuaded that their contents would be capable of 
a clearer analyfis, and a more ready deduction. If he has been mifguided 
by his judgment, he appeals to the purity of his intention, and folicits, 
on this, as on every occafion, the candour and indulgence of his readers. 



APPENDIX, 



3 



MEDICAL JOURNAL. 

SYRIA AND EGYPT, 



FROM JULY 1800, TO MARCH 1802. 



THE military miffion joined the army of the Grand Vizier on isoo. 
July» 
the beginning of July 1800, in good health : towards the end 

of July and Auguft the men became lickly : cholera, diarrhoea, and 

dysentery were the prevailing difeafes. And at the latter end of August. 

Auguft, when great dews fell during the night, more particularly on 

the 26th, a bilious remittent fever, accompanied with malignant 

iymptoms, made its appearance. In the month of September it 

proved fatal to two military artificers. The fymptoms which ufhered 

in this difeafe were cold rigors, head-ach, proftration of ftrength, 

pain of ftomach and abdomen, naufea and bitter tafte of the mouth, 

with copious vomitings of yellow and green bile (fome had bilious 

diarrhoea) ; a foul yellow tongue, great thirft, a quick pulfe, hot fkin, 

and quickened refpiration. 

The mode of treatment adopted, was fpeedily to evacuate the 

contents of the primae viae, by the tartarifed antimony, in folution, 

3 q 2 



484 MEDICAL JOURNAL, 

in fmall repeated dofes ; with aperients of cream tartar, infufion 
fenas, and Epfom falts ; followed by a dofe of laudanum and anti- 
moniai wine, to allay irritation, and excite perfpiration, which was 
encouraged by pediluvium. 

The emetic and purge feldom failed to afford fome apparent relief 
to the patients. 

Calomel, laudanum, and antimony, were then continued in fuch 
dofes as the fymptoms indicated, until the remiffion of fever took 
place, which, for the moll: part, was about the third or fourth day, 
when the Peruvian bark was adminiftered in varied forms. We 
were without wine. Where the difeafe took an unfavourable turn, 
it was accompanied with delirium, red eyes, and petechial fpots on 
the fkin, &c. Blifters and lynapifms were had recourfe to upon 
fuch occafions. 

In fome of the cafes, dyfenteric fymptoms were conjoined to the 
difeafe. The regimen was weak chicken broth, rice gruel, with 
lemonade, rice water, and bread tea. 

It fometimes happened that the patients, in place of being at- 
tacked fuddenly, drooped day after day : in fuch cafes their recovery 
was generally more flow than that of the former. 

The weather, during the day, was at this time hot ; Fahrenheit's 
thermometer, in made, ranging at noon from 90 to 93. 

The evenings and mornings were cool ; thermometer 08 to 70, 
accompanied with copious dews and fogs. 
Oftober. In the month of Oclober, fome cafes of typhus fimplex occurred, 
and dyfentery continued to prevail. 

Occafional heavy mowers of rain fell about the 23d. 



SYRIA AND EGYPT. 485 

The extremely filthy and unwholefome condition of the Ottoman 
camp, excited in me great apprehenfions that putrid and malignant 
difeafes would certainly be generated, unlefs fome necelfary fteps 
were taken to remedy the impending evil. 

With the approbation of General Koehler, I wrote to the Grand 
Vizier, and ftated to him with concern, the great numbers of dead 
putrid carcafes of animals, camels, horfes, &c. &c. difperfed over the 
whole of the camp, which w r ere fuffered to remain uncovered, quietly 
to corrupt and decay ; exhaling the moll intolerable putrid effluvia 
imaginable, infomuch, that ferious difeafes might be expedled to 
appear, unlefs this intolerable nuifance mould be fpeedily removed. 
Thefe admonitions were thankfully received, yet produced but little 
reform. The ground of the encampment was not changed, as was 
advifed. A feeble effort was continued for three days only, to lelfen 
the accumulation of putrid matter, and then every fuch exertion 
ended. We were at length under the neceffity of hiring Arabs 
daily, to bury the dead carcafes of camels, horfes, affes, &c. which 
were found near our quarters, to enable us to exift. My fears 
were at length realized, for a great mortality from plague, ma- 
lignant fever, and dyfentery, appeared- among the Turks in No- 
vember and December. It was difficult to afcertain their exacl 
lofs, (they themfelves were ignorant of it,) but it was fuppofed to 
amount to from lixty to one hundred daily. 

In November the weather was fhowery and ftormy, accompanied November, 
with thunder and lightning. Before fun-rife on the morning of the 
20th November, the thermometer was 42 ; and many mornings it 
had ranged from 42 to 55 before fun- rife. This, to our feelings. 



4 S6 MEDICAL JOURNAL, 

was very cold ; the variations of temperature at this time were 
great. On the 20th there was a difference of 34 degrees, from the 
morning to two o'clock P. M. (from 42 to 76.) This change im- 
proved the health of our own people, yet great mortality from 
plague continued among the Turks. 

I tried by all the arguments in my power to get the Turks to 
feparate the fick from the healthy ; a circumftance to which they 
never attended ; fo that plague, entering a tent, frequently fwept 
off all its inhabitants. 

This great mortality {till continuing, and the Turks being ftill 
admonifhed to open their camp, at length complied. The troops 
were now more difperfed, in place of being fo thickly huddled to- 
gether, as is the ufual cuftom of this nation. 
December. In the beginning of December a putrid fever carried off a mili- 
tary artificer belonging to the miffion. He died the fixth day from 
the attack. And on the 11th of December a civil artificer was 
feized with plague, and died after thirty-fix hours illnefs. 

A gunner of artillery caught the infe&ion from the artificer, and 
died the fifth day from attack. Vide their cafes in the hiftorical 
account of the plague. The very great mortality of the Ottoman 
troops, and the appearance among us of fo formidable and fatal a 
difeafe as the plague, naturally excited great alarm, and induced 
us to make every poffible exertion to prevent the further extenfion 
of this difeafe. 

The precautions adopted were, to burn all the bedding, clothes, 
&c. belonging to, or ufed by the deceafed. The tents were fumi- 
gated ; and the two attendants upon the fick, with one typhus 



SYRIA AND EGYPT. 487 

patient then within the hofpital tent, were immediately put into a 
{late of quarantine. 

For this purpofe a trench was dug round a large fpace of ground, 
within which the tent was inclofed ; centinels were placed, not to 
fuffer the leaft contact or poffible communication whatever with 
the above three people : their provifions, depofited in veffels, were 
laid ready to receive them, &c. &c. 

Having heard that the external friction of warm oil had been 
advifed and employed with fuccefs by the late Conful at Alexandria, 
Mr. Baldwin, in the cure and prevention of plague, this was in- 
ftantly adopted. 

After having warned and cleanfed themfelves, our three indivi- 
duals in the tent rubbed one another with warm oil all over ; and 
this being done, they drank a bafin of warm coffee, and laid down 
between blankets. A chafing- dim of charcoal was kept in the tent 
while they were rubbing : in ordering this we endeavoured to comply 
with the ufual directions as much as was practicable in our fituations 
in camp. A copious and comfortable perfpiration was the refult of 
this friction, which was continued without interruption every night 
until they were difcharged from their confinement, which was at the 
expiration of forty-two days, when they began by deftroying their 
tent, and all their clothes, bedding, &c. &c. Having bathed in the 
fea, they now put on frem clothes, and joined the party of the miffion 
in extremely good health ; each of them being become quite lufty 
and fat. The typhus patient, of whofe life I had defpaired previoufly 
to the ufe of the oil, was quite recovered, and much improved in 
his ufual appearance. It is necelTary to remark, that he continued 



488 MEDICAL JOURNAL, 

to take his former medicines, bark, anodyne draughts, &c. during 
the application of the oily frictions. 

Although I have to lament the failure of the oil, in the cure of 
plague, in the cafe of Gunner Cowden, the artillery-man, yet I am 
induced to think it was ufeful in preventing infection to the three 
men confined in the lazaretto tent. 

The moment that Gunner Cowden became indifpofed his mind 
was extremely haralTed, and I do not hefitate to believe that this 
circumftance was extremely unfavourable to his recovery. An 
Arab was hired to attend upon any cafes of plague that might hap- 
pen in future to occur. 
Dec. 7th. Mrs. K. the wife of Brigadier General Koehler, who accompanied 
him from England, was feized with malignant fever, and died the 
feventh day from attack. 
Dec. 16th. The Turks were at length roufed from their lethargy and apathy. 

The Vizier moved his camp to the fouth of Jaffa, near the fea more, 
upon an eligible and dry ground, about a mile and half from the 
town. Here we could enjoy the benefit of the frefh, untainted air. 

The wretched and deplorable fcene which prefented itfelf upon 
the late ground of encampment, exceeded all defcription. The 
putrid ftench which aflailed us, when we approached the fpot, was 
intolerable. 

Dec. 18. Very heavy fhowers of rain fell, accompanied with ftormy wea- 
ther, loud thunder, and vivid lightning. Cold winds from the 
S. S. W. Fahrenheit's thermometer at noon, at 02 degrees. 

The fudden changes in the weather produced rheumatifms, but 
no other indifpofition among the miffion. 



SYRIA AND EGYPT. 489 

Plague and mortality among the Turks had abated lince the 
borfterous weather came on. 

Brigadier General Koehler, who had been involved in the greateft Dec. 26. 
diftrefs of mind lince the death of his wife, was feized with putrid 
fever, and died the 29th inftant. 

The thermometer before fun-rife was as low as 35. The weather Dec. 28. 
variable this month, particularly from the 1 7th, when we had cold 
blowing winds ; much rain fell fuddenly, with heavy claps of 
thunder, and vivid lightning. 

Except the feizure and death of General Koehler, lince our arrival 1801. 
upon the new ground of encampment, the million was nearly free 
from difeafe. The remarkable change of the weather, which had 
for fome time been cold, (the thermometer before fun-rife being 
at 35,) and boifterous, accompanied with much thunder, lightning, 
and very heavy rains, had conliderably diminifhed difeafe and mor- 
tality among the Ottoman troops, as well as ourfelves. 

The weather, during the lall week, continued rainy, cold, and Jan. S. 
boifterous. 

The Reis EfFendi allured me to-day, that, although there were 
cafes of plague within the Ottoman camp, yet the difeafe was be- 
come infinitely more mild, and confequently lefs fatal. That feveral 
perfons who had been lately attacked, had recovered. He inftanced 
the cafes of five Haves belonging to the Vizier, three of whom fur- 
vived the attack. He remarked, that the fame circumftance hap- 
pened at Conftantinople when the difeafe was upon the decline. 
From this fad the Turks predicted the fpeedy ceffation of the 
plague. 

3 R 



490 MEDICAL JOURNAL, 

Jan. 12. Dr. Bofari, the Vizier's own phyfician, died of plague this day, 
after the third day's illnefs. Some days previoufly to his indifpofition, 
he allured me, that he had made every poffible enquiry to afcertain 
the lofs of the Turks fince the camp was formed at Jaffa in the 
month of May 1 800, which lofs in difeafes amounted at leaft to 
eight thoufand men. 

Jan. 27. A tremendous gale of wind, with rain, and hail, accompanied 
with loud thunder, and vivid lightning, came on this evening (27th). 
The gale, {till accompanied by rain, continued until the 31 ft before 
it moderated. 

Jan. 31. The Haznadar, or treafurer of the Grand Vizier, died this day of 
plague. 

Only one cafe of intermittent (quotidian) and a cafe of dyfen- 
tery on our fick lift this month. 

The intermittent yielded eafily to the bark. 

The three men in the lazaretto tent were releafed from confine- 
ment. 

Feb. 7. Fine weather fince the 4th inftant. Wind N. E. or E. The 
horizon clear. 

The ftormy weather commenced ufually with a mift, or hazinefs 
of atmofphere, coming from the fouthward the day preceding the 
ftorm ; and a large dilk or circle round the moon. The million 
was in tolerable good health, except that the cold, rainy feafon was 
very generally productive of painful glandular tumefadions. This 
happening at the peftilential feafon, and being one of the lymptoms 
of plague, gave rife to fome alarm among thofe attacked; but, 
being unaccompanied with febrile lymptoms, their fears loon fub- 



SYRIA AND EGYPT. 491 

llded. Some of thefe tumors fuppurated among the children : a 
general relief was afforded by warm fomentations, flannel, &c. 

The Vizier was taken ill with fever, the apparent effects of cold : 
his complaints yielded in a few days to antimonial remedies, pedi- 
, luvium, &c. 

The weather has been fine the laft week. No frefh cafe of plague Feb. H. 
for feveral days pall among the Turks. But reports from El-Arifli 
ftate, that it prevails fatally in that camp : they have loft feveral 
thoufand men within a few weeks. 

A Venetian Doctor died this day of malignant fever, the 8th day 
from attack. The apothecary reported, that there were three or 
four cafes of the fame fever in Jaffa camp. 

The weather to-day hazy, and fultry, though the thermometer 
in (hade, at two o'clock P. M. GO. 

On the lOth there was a gale of wind, which raifed clouds of 
fend into the atmofphere, and which was extremely ann'oying. This 
ftorm was preceded by hazy and fultry weather ; the hazinefs came 
from the fouthward. 

During the firft fortnight of this month the weather was mode- 
rate and pleafant, and the minion healthy. In the courfe of the 
laft fortnight the weather was very variable, ftormy, and rainy, with 
fine warm days occafionally. 

The weather became very variable, ftormy, and rainy, for two Feb. 28. 
or three days together, fucceeded by warm days, and cold nights 
and mornings. 

The Ottoman army marched from Jaffa on the 25th February, 
. on its way to Egypt. Confequently the principal part, or, indeed, 

3 R 2 



49 z MEDICAL JOURNAL, 

the whole of the fick, were doomed to remain at Jaffa, or make 
their beft way homeward. 

The only means which the Turks have to carry their fick or 
wounded is upon camels, in a kind of covered cradle, one of which 
is placed at each fide of the animal. Each camel carries four per- 
fons, two in each cradle, fitting a la Turc, as there is not length 
fufficient to lie down : the motion appears extremely uneafy and 
wearifome. There are few of thefe conveniencies, when compared 
to the numbers which compofe the Turkifh army. They are prin- 
cipally carried for the officers and their fuite. The Turks have 
neither hofpitals, nor hofpital tents, fet apart for the ufe of the fick. 
To introduce fuch eftablifhments, or attempt a medical reform in 
their armies, appears utterly impoffible : the common foldier who 
may unfortunately fall fick on the march, has no means pointed out 
to him to get forward ; and if he flays behind, he is expofed to 
perifh through want. Confequently a Turkifh army in motion muff 
be the leafl encumbered with fick. 

A military artificer Rationed at the camp of El-Arifh, with Cap- 
tain Lacey of the royal engineers, died the 27th February, with 
malignant fever, after four days illnefs. 

The month of March commenced with llormy weather, rains, 
thunder and lightning. 
March 3. A woman belonging to the miffion died at Jaffa, after an illnefs 
of thirty-fix hours, under fufpicious fymptoms. The whole of the 
women and children belonging to the military miffion, who were 
left in a houfe in that place for the prefent, and who amounted to 1 
thirty in number, adopted the oily frictions, and every neceffary 



SYRIA AND EGYPT. 493 

precaution to prevent the difeafe from fpreading ; happily no feri- 
ous confequences followed. 

A Have belonging to the Vizier died of plague on the above day. March 3. 
He caught the infection from a pelice, the property of a perfon 
lately dead of plague. 

The interpreter with Captain Lacey at El-Arifh, was attacked 
with plague, which difeafe continued to rage there fatally. 

Accounts from El-Arilh ftated, that Ifmael Pacha, the chief in March 11. 
command at that camp, died a few days before. He had been 
feized with vomiting, and expired the following morning, either 
from the effect of plague or of potfon : it was faid that the plague at 
El-Arifh had abated in its violence. 

Since the lft of March the weather was occafionally ftormy and 
rainy. 

Very heavy rains fell this day, accompanied with gales of wind March 12. 
from the S. W. This day the Ottoman army moved forward from 
Yebna, which is fituated twelve .miles S. from Jaffa. 

The cold wet weather was fatal to 200 camels in the courfe of 
two days march. Thefe animals, though hardy, cannot bear wet 
and cold. 

The troops were healthy. 

Wind N. W. The wind from this quarter conftantly favoured us March 14. 
with fine weather. 

Arrived at Gaza, and faw the interpreter, who had -lately been March 15, 
fufpected of peitilential infection. I found him with an extenfive 
fore upon his left fide, the effects of a large carbuncle. He had alfo 
a glandular enlargement in the axilla ; and an inflammation of the 



494 MEDICAL JOURNAL, 

left eye. I recommended the bark, and opium ; and wax and oil 
dreffings, with vegetable and milk diet. This man was treated on 
the onfet of difeafe, with rack ay, a ftrong fpirit. 
March 19. Since the 7th inftant, the plague raged with frefti violence at El- 
Arifh. It was ftated that the Turks had loft by this difeafe the one- 
half of their army, which confifted fome weeks before of fix thou- 
fand men. 

March 3i. The plague fuddenly difappeared at the camp of El-Arifh. The 
troops with the Vizier remained healthy. 

Nearly the whole of this month the weather was tempeftuous, 
accompanied with very heavy rains, prodigioufly loud thunder, and 
vivid lightning. 

During this period the health of the whole of the troops was im- 
proved, and plague difappeared. 
April. In the march of the troops through the defert, which took them 
up four weeks, including the halts, inflammations of the eyes became 
troublefome. The conftant expofure of the eye to the intenfe heat, 
and vivid rays of the fun, reflected from a white glittering fand, 
together with the infinuation of its fineft particles into this delicate 
organ, produced occafional diftrefs and irritation. The mode of 
treatment, &c. of this complaint will appear under the head of Re- 
marks upon Ophthalmy. 

Notwithftanding the above march was extremely fatiguing and 
diftreffing, yet the troops were in better general health than before. 
The 23d the weather was oppreffively hot ; the mornings and even- 
ings were cool ; great dews fell during the night. It blew very 
frelh on the 27th from E. S. E. and at fea a ftrong gale was expe- 
rienced. 



SYRIA AND EGYPT. , 495 

The advanced Turkifh army, fent forward by the Vizier to take Salahieh 

in Egypt, 

poffeffion of Corein and Belbeis, was very fickly, and fuffered a great April 30. 
mortality, which was afcribed to the plague. I am, however, ap- 
prehenfive, that the want of the common neceffaries of life, and the 
great fatigue of the troops in croffing the defert, may account for a 
great portion of this mortality. 

Ophthalmy continued to harafs the Ottomans as well as fome few May. 
of the foldiers of the miffion. Dyfenteries and diarrhoeas prevailed. 

While at Belbeis, we had a ftrong kampfin, which was followed May 14>, 
by much ocular inflammation. The heat of the air, 112 in made. 
The wind, which was W. S. W. in the morning, changed to north 
about noon, and continued to blow from that quarter during the 
evening. At fix o'clock in the evening the thermometer fell to go; 
and on the day following, about noon, the heat was fallen to 97. 

At Ben El HaiTar a kampfin arofe : thermometer was 1 1 2 at two May 23, 
o'clock P. M. in fhade. 

The wind in the forenoon was at eaft ; at two o'clock P. M. it 
•was due fouth ; and, in the evening, the thermometer being at 98, 
the wind fihifted to the fouth-weft, blowing very ftrong. 

Frefh cafes of ophthalmy ufually followed thefe hot and diftreffing 
winds. 

The difeafes of this month were ophthalmy, dyfentery, and diar- June, 
rhcea. An artillery-man died from fever (fynochus) the fifth day 
from the attack. 

The heat of the weather progreffively increafed as we approached 
Cairo from Syria. 

% About the Oth we had thick fogs and heavy dews. July. 



49 6 MEDICAL JOURNAL, 

On the ]3th tempeftuous gufts of wind, accompanied with heavy 
clouds of duft. Heat from 100 to 100 degrees. 
July 26. The weather cloudy and foggy. 

During the whole of this month, ophthalmy was very general : 
dyfentery and diarrhoea alfo continued. Some cafes of typhus oc- 
curred towards the end of the month, but none fatal. The conva- 
Icfcents, however, recovered very ilowly. The difeafe yielded to 
emetics, calomel, diaphoretics, and, laftly, bark completed the cure. 

The Ottoman army entered Cairo the 16th of July. 

The heat was oppreffive, the thermometer being at Q5 degrees at 
two o'clock P. M. in fhade. 
Auguft. The weather was cloudy during this month, confequently not fo 
oppreffively warm as laft month. Before fun-rife the thermometer 
was at 74, in the night from 80 to SI, and during the day, from 
85 to 98, or 100. 

The cloudinefs of the mornings diminiilted about noon. The 
greateft heat of the day was now found to be between three and four 
o'clock P. M. which induced me to change the hour of taking the 
temperature. 

The evenings were cool — the wind frefhened generally at night, 
which blew for the moft part N. W. 

The diminution of heat in the weather was, together with the 
cool refrefhing winds from the northward, falutary. Ocular inflam- 
mations were lefs frequent as well as lefs violent. During the calms 
which occafionally prevailed, the heat was always oppreffive. 

Among the Englim fick at Fort Ibrahim, occupied by a detach- 
ment of the Indian army, ophthalmy, dyfentery, and malignant %- 
vers, were the prevailing difeafes. 



SYRIA AND EGYPT. 497 

The atmofphere was extremely denfe, with heavy black clouds, Aug. 26. 
which in Europe would portend the immediate fall of rain. 

Obftinate dyfenteric affections were relieved by blifters on the 
abdomen. 

Among the million three cafes of low fever occurred this month. 

All the cafes of ophthalmy in the miffion were cured, none of the Aug. 31. 
patients having apparently fuftained any permanent injury of the 
eyes. The ung. hydrargyr. nit. with t r opii, continued to afford 
great relief in ophthalmy. 

Before fun-rife the thermometer was at 71 ; the air cool, and re- Sept. 18. 
frefliing : northerly winds prevail, and the whole of the country as 
far as the pyramids of Gizah is inundated. 

Nights cool ; frefh, breezes from the northward. Some frefh cafes Sept. 2L- 
of ophthalmy have occurred within thefe few days, which appear to 
have been produced by the {harp northerly winds ; this affection 
yielded eafily to blifters behind the ears, faturnine collyriums, and 
purges. 

This day an enormous hydrocele prefented itfelf in an inhabitant 
of Cairo, fixteen inches by twelve in diameter. Thefe cafes, as well 
as hernia, are common in Egypt. 

The elephantiafis among the women is a frequent difeafe. 

Many dreadful cafes of leprofy are feen in Cairo, which occafion- Sept . 2 3. 
ally make dreadful havoc in the face : in the lofs of nofe, lips, eyes, 
&c. In the ifiand of Scio, in the Archipelago, there is an hofpital 
for the reception of the leprous of the different iflands. I took the 
opportunity to vifit this fpot when on my return to Conftantinople, 

3 S 



498 MEDICAL JOURNAL, 

Upwards of 200 of thefe poor unfortunate fufferers were there col- 
lected. Vide narrative when at Scio. 
Sept. 30. During this month the inhabitants and troops were healthy. 

The weather pleafant, and moderately warm. 

The prevailing winds N. W. 

The latter end of the month heavy dews fell during the night. 
They commenced about the lQth, 
Oflober. Some cafes of intermittents among the troops at Gizah. At 
Alexandria the prevailing difeafes were diarrhoea, dyfenteries, and old 
cafes of ophthalmy. 

For the moft part Odober w T as a temperate, and agreeable month. 
The mornings and evenings were cool, with refrefhing winds from 
the northward. When the wind came round to the eaftward of 
north, the days were warm, fultry, and oppreffive ; though the mer- 
cury did not rife higher than 80 in lhade. 
November. Catarrhs and intermittents were the prevailing difeafes of this 
month, which was cold, rainy, and ftormy. 

On the morning of the 20th there was a tremendous ftorm, ac- 
companied with rain, thunder, and lightning. Wind N. W. This 
tempeftuous weather continued feveral days, with only fome little 
intermiffion. 

The dews have been heavy this month. 

By means of freezing mixtures I reduced the mercury in Fahren- 
heit's thermometer to 32 ; but it was only of two or three feconds 
duration, when it rofe to 38. The temperature of the air 5Q. 

The fenfation produced by the handling of the cold mixture was 



SYRIA AND EGYPT. 499 

extremely painful and difagreeable. The pain continued feveral 
hours afterwards. 

Some recent cafes of plague are faid to have? occurred among the 
fepoys at Rofetta. 

Intermittents and catarrhal affections continue. December, 
Heavy dews, with thick foggy weather. 

Dyfentery prevailed among the Turks ; with fome fatal cafes, 
about the 1 1 th of December. 

At Gizah the dyfentery proved fatal to fome of the Englifh. 
Wind variable, N. N. W., W. &c. 

About the lyth, 20th, and 21 ft, the wind trifling, almoft a calm, 
and the days foggy, with clofe fultry weather. A greater mortality 
was feen among the inhabitants ; but from what difeafe it was im- 
poffible to afcertain. 

The greateft heat this month did not exceed 73 in made. The 
foutherly winds, however, which occafionally blow in November 
and December, are cold, comparatively to thofe which occur in 
June, July, and Auguft. On account of the mountains of Abyf- 
finia being faid to be then covered with fnow, and Upper Egypt 
being moiftened by the inundation, the wind blowing from this 
quarter does not become heated in its pafTage, as happens during 
the latter months, when the wind from the fouth, or fouth-eaft, 
blows fo extremely hot and dry as occafionally to caufe fuffocation. 
This occurred at Belbeis during the preceding year, when camels 
and other animals are faid to have perifhed from its effects. 

It was lamentable to fee, among the numerous diftreffed people in 
pCairo, very many dumb perfons. One of thefe followed the pro- 

3 s 2 



5 oo MEDICAL JOURNAL, 

feflion of a juggler, and performed other amuiing tricks, by which 
he obtained his livelihood. 
Dec. 31. More deaths appeared this month among the inhabitants than in 
November. The weather during the whole of the month was ex- 
tremely variable ; foggy; great dews; winds and temperature ado- 
nilhingly variable. 

When the fun fhone, on an expofure to its rays, it was fcorching; 
The nights were cold and moift. 

This was a feafbn apparently very favourable to the production of 
difeafe. Dyfentery prevailed. 

During the months of November and December, the appearance 
of winter was manifeft in the vegetable tribe. The fall of leaf 
was confined chiefly to the mulberry trees and vines. The other 
trees nearly preferved their foliage by the occafional dropping and 
renewal of their leaves. 

This month a fecondary cafe of lues venerea was cured by the 
nitrous acid. Vide Cafe. 

And a cafe of hepatitis in a foldier of the miflion cured by mercury. 

1802. The prevailing difeafes were intermittents, and their relapfes- 
Jan. 15. 

Some recent cafes of flight ophthalmy, and dyfenteries. Extremely 
heavy, ofFenfive and foggy, and cloudy weather, during the laft 
fortnight. 

In the evening of the 24th, ftormy, tempeftuous weather ; heavy 
black clouds ; wind S. W. accompanied with fliowers of rain, which 
fell more abundantly on the 25th and 26th. Temperature cold and 
difagreeable, from 46 to 58 in fliade. 
Febtuary. Cold, tempeftuous, and rainy weather ufhered in this month, i 



SYRIA AND EGYPT. 501 

The Choarbagi, or Colonel of JanhTaries, who was attached to Feb. 3. 
the million, and who occupied a chamber within our buildings in 
Cairo, died after three days illnefs ; from his fymptoms I conceived 
his death to be from plague. He was firft feized with cold fhiver- 
ings, followed by fever, head-ach, thirft, and bitter tafte of the 
mouth. He had a fmall painful tumor in the left groin, nearly the 
lize of a pigeon's egg ; and another in the right axilla. He died 
luddenly in the night. 

Previoully to interment I examined the body, and found that the 
buboes were nearly fubfided : there was a flight difcoloration on 
the right arm. There were neither petechia? nor vibices upon the 
body. However, from all the circumftances under which this man 
died, I was led to ccnftder it rather as a cafe of plague than other- 
wife ; which induced us to take every poffible precaution to prevent 
any propagation of infection, mould it have exifted. 

The JanifTaries, who had lived with the deceafed, remain well. Feb. 7. 
The bedding and pelices belonging to the deceafed were immediately 
taken pofTeffion of by his fon, and made ufe of without the leaft 
concern. While fuch apathy continues among the Turks, plague 
can never be annihilated from their country. Thefe people em- 
barked, after a few days, with the reft of the JanifTaries, on board 
a verTel going to Conftantinople, carrying with them the clothes, 
&c. of a man who died under very iuipicious fymptoms of plague. 

This day was oppreffively warm and fultry. Feb. n. 

Wind S. and S. W. we experienced a kampfin wind, which 
raifed clouds of duft into the atmofphere, and produced a continual 
hazinefs. 



502 MEDICAL JOURNAL, 

The eyes, which fuffered from this heat and irritation, were re- 
lieved by repeated ablutions of cold water. 

Feb. IS. The whole of the miffion being entirely free from infectious 
fymptoms, were ordered to proceed to Alexandria. The Pacha of 
Grand Cairo has ftated that, " from the moft vigilant enquiry in the 
town and fuburbs of Cairo, he has not heard of another cafe of 
" plague at prefent." However, little or no dependance can in 
reality be placed upon the reports of the Turks. In Upper Egypt 
we have heard, that the difeafe is already reappearing. 

Feb. 14. Foggy and very cloudy weather ; the fun completely obfcured this 
day; a circumftance which does not often happen in Egypt, except 
during the fall of rain. Several days paft have been clofe and fultry. 

Feb. 23. Tremendous gales of wind, W.N.W. which were accompanied 
on the 25th with heavy mowers of rain. Indeed, the weather was 
tempeftuous from the 20th to the end of the month. The higheft 
temperature 73 ; loweft 44. 

Upon our arrival at Rofetta, on the 23d February, we found the 
plague had already appeared there, and had been fatal to a ferjeant 
of the Indian troops, and feveral of the- inhabitants. 

The miffion remained well ; but, upon their arrival at Alexandria 
on the 7th of March, were put under quarantine for fifteen days, as 
were all velfels and perfons coming from Rofetta, feveral cafes of 
plague having been faid to have been received at Alexandria from 
the latter place. 

March. The month of March was ftormy and rainy, and on the 20th 
heavy rains and hail fell, accompanied with thunder and lightning. 
Winds variable, N. E. N„ W. N. W., N. 



SYRIA AND EGYPT. 503 

The higheft temperature 79 ; loweft 57. 
Great dews fell about the 16th. 

Having been fo unlucky as to break my thermometer on the 24th 
inftant, I was obliged to clofe my obfervations with it ; and on the 
27th took my departure from Alexandria, on my way to Conftanti- 
nople and England. 



CASES OF MALIGNANT FEVER. 
CASE I. 

A military artificer, Thomas Greenhalfh, aged about fifty years, 
was taken, on the 23d Auguft l/QQ, with cold chilly, followed by 
.fever, fevere head-ach, naufea, and vomiting of bile ; the tongue 
was foul, great thirft, pulfe quick and rather firm ; with anxiety, 
depreffion of fpirits, and much proflration of ftrength. He was 
feized while on board the New Adventure tranfport, in the harbour 
of Conftantinople, whither he had been fent to execute fome work. 
He had a diftance of feven miles to walk to rejoin the barracks at 
Levant Chiflick, where I firft faw him in the afternoon, and col- 
lected from him the foregoing hifliory and fymptoms. 

An antimonial emetic was given, followed by a dofe of lauda- 
num, and the ufe of pediluvium ; and, the next morning, ten grains 
of calomel and a folution of Epfom falts were adminifcered. Thefe 
remedies, in emptying the prima via?, relieved the fymptoms ; yet, 
on the third day, the head-ach increafed : the fkin was very hot, 
though moift ; tongue dry and of a brownifh colour ; eyes turgid ; 
feveral petechial fpots appeared on the breaft. The calomel was 



5 o4 MEDICAL JOURNAL, 

repeated; a blifter applied to the back ; a clyfter injected; pedilu- 
vium repeated, and four grains of antimonial powder given every 
three hours ; with an anodyne at bed-time. 

On the fourth day, the petechias were augmented ; he had pafled 
a reftlefs night ; was occafionally incoherent ; febrile fymptoms 
continued. 

The head was fhaved ; cloths moiftened with vinegar were re- 
peatedly applied to the whole of the furface of the head. Calomel 
and pediluvium repeated. 

Fifth day. The delirium conftant : pafled a very refllefs night ; 
the eyes and furface of the body tinged of a yellow colour, which 
in fbme parts had a dirty or cadaverous appearance. 

The pupils of the eyes rather dilated ; tongue dry ; teeth and 
mouth covered with black fordes ; cold clammy fweats occafionally 
burft forth ; pulfe extremely variable, in ftrength and in frequency. 
A blifter was applied, which covered the whole of the head ; the 
calomel and clyfter repeated ; the bark in decoction, with vitriolic 
acid, was given liberally, and a dofe of laudanum at bed-time. 

The fixth day. All the unfavourable fymptoms were alarmingly 
increafed, and threatened a fpeedy duTolution. The fkin and eyes 
were of a dirty yellow colour ; the petechias numerous, and the 
extremities cold: neverthelefs, the pulfe was good ; and by no means 
indicated the apparent danger of the patient. 

Blifters were applied to the extremities, an<! bar A md wine freely 
adminiftercd. He expired the evening of the fixth day. The body 
became extremely offcnfive foon after death. He had no glandular 
or other tumors. 



SYRIA AND EGYP1\ 505 

The weather had been occafionally moift and warm during the 
month of Auguft, the thermometer ranging from 68 to 88 in 
made. 

Several cafes of the fame kind of fever prevailed among the 
Tiarlufli troops at Levant Chifhck, and alfo among the inhabitants. 

CASE n. 

A military artificer, Kannaird, aged thirty, was fuddenly feized, on 
the 27th Auguft 1799, with cold rigors, followed by a hot fkin, 
pain in the head and ftomach, naufea and vomiting of bile, a quick 
pulfe, &c. An antimonial emetic was given immediately ; and a 
dole of laudanum and antimonial wine after its operation, with 
pediluvium. 

In the. morning of the 28th, calomel, and a faline purge. Thefe 
opening remedies relieved the lymptoms, and a dofe of laudanum 
and antimonial wine was repeated at bed-time. 

Head-ach continued, with occafional naufea ; Ikin moderately A \j' 9 gf' 
warm ; pulfe fmall and frequent ; complained of laflitude and ge- 
neral debility : fago, wine, and lemonade were ordered ; the bark, 
with the nitrous acid, liberally given ; and laudanum adminiftered 
at bed- time. 

Pafled a reftlefs night; fymptoms continued with little alteration Aug ' 30 * 
from the 29th. The medicines and regimen continued as before. 
A blifter was applied to the nape of the neck ; the head ihaved, and 
vinegar frequently applied. 

Head-ach continued ; pulfe fmall, quick, and feeble ; five grains of Au £' 51 ' 
calomel and camphor given at bed-time ; a clyfter injected ; a blifter 

3 T 



5 o6 MEDICAL JOURNAL, 

applied, which covered the whole of the head; and the bark, wine, 
&c. continued as before. 

Sept. 1. Little or no alteration. Medicines continued. 

Sept. 2. PaHTed a very reftlefs night ; had delirium ; tongue and mouth 
blackifh ; he laid in a comatofe ftupid Hate, except when fpoken to, 
when he replied rationally to queftions put to him, and then fell 
into the fame comatofe ftate again : pulfe foft, and moderately fre- 
quent ; fkin of a yellow colour, with petechias upon the body ; urine 
was of a dark brown colour, refembling a ftrong infufion of coffee ; 
ftools were dark and offend ve. 

Sept. 3. Had paffed a reftlefs night ; notwithstanding which he appeared 
this morning more fenfible and cheerful: comatofe affection lef- 
fened ; the urine was not fo high coloured. Pulfe foft ; fkin mode- 
rately warm ; tongue brown, but moift ; no evacuation yefterday 
by ftool ; fix grains of calomel were given, and an injection was 
thrown up. The bark, wine, camphor, laudanum, &c. were con- 
tinued. 

Sept. 4. All the alarming fymptoms increafed. Blifters were applied to 
the extremities. He expired in the evening. He had no glandular 
or other tumors. This man had materially fuffered in his general 
health fince his arrival in Turkey, with repeated attacks of dyfen- 
tery. 

CASE in. 

A military artificer, Smith, aged 30, was fuddenly feized, the 22d 
September 1 799, in the fame manner as Greenhalfti and Kannaird. 
Thefe men were all lodged in the barracks at Levant Chiflick. The 



SYRIA AND EGYPT. 507 

cure was undertaken by an emetic, calomel, and an aperient, with a 
dofe of laudanum, and antimonial wine after their operations. 

On the 23d, he had paffed a bad night. The head-ach continued ; 
Countenance flufhed ; the arms and legs cold ; pulfe fmall, quick, 
and extremely variable; calomel repeated; wine was liberally ufed ; 
and repeated dofes of laudanum were given: his drink was well aci- 
dulated lemonade. 

Palled a reftlefs night ; great coldnefs pervaded the whole body ; Sept. 24. 
fcarcely any reaction of fyftem j and this continued only for a few 
minutes, in fudden flufhes of heat in the face, and then fuddenly 
fubfided : there was great proftration of ftrength, with occafional 
vomiting of a brown fluid refembling coffee-grounds ; complained 
of bitter tafte in the mouth ; had feveral ofFenfive ftools ; all the 
fymptoms denoted great danger, and the want of vital energy. The 
wine and laudanum were repeated, fomentations were applied to the 
legs, and calomel continued at bed-time. 

He appeared fomewhat relieved ; the skin moderately warm ; Sept. 25. 
pulfe more firm and fteady : he retained chicken broth upon the 
ftomach : the wine and laudanum repeated, with a dofe of vitriolic 
aether, joined with laudanum, at bed-time. 

Faffed a reftlefs night, with delirium ; tongue foul ; had ftools ; Sept. 26. 
urine nearly of a healthy colour : when fpoken to, he roufed him- 
felf, fpoke, and then fell into a drowfy, comatofe ftate, with mut- 
tering delirium ; the eyes were turgid ; pulfe quick, more full and 
firm than the 25th (T12 ftrokes in a minute) ; skin warm: it was 
only to-day that a general rea&ion of fyftem appeared fteady ; the 

3 T 2 



5 o8 MEDICAL JOURNAL, 

head was fhaved ; cloths moiftened with vinegar were frequently 
applied ; and a blifter laid to the nape of the neck. 

A drachm and a half of nitrous acid, diluted freely with water, 
was ordered to be given within twenty-four hours. The aether ano- 
dyne draught repeated. 

Delirium continued ; a general coldnefs pervaded the whole body ; 
skin moift ; paffed loofe ftools and urine involuntarily ; pulfe quick 
and fmall (120), and very variable ; tongue moift, and lefs foul; 
had occalional naufea ; feveral large dark fpots, and petechias upon 
the breaft ; fomentations were applied to the legs and arms ; wine, 
bark, and nitrous acid continued ; a blifter, covering the whole of 
the head, was applied. He expired in the evening. He had neither 
glandular nor other tumors. The body became extremely ofFen- 
five a few hours after death. Thefe fatal cafes occurring, and ob- 
ferving that the fame fever prevailed with the Turks, we took every 
poflible precaution, by fumigation, &c. to prevent the continuance 
of difeafe, and recommended a change of fituation. 

CASE IV. 

A military artificer, Geary, about twenty-five years of age, while 
encamped at Jaffa, in Syria, was fuddenly feized, on the 5th De- 
cember 1800, with cold rigors, vertigo, head-ach, followed by a 
hot skin, pain at ftomach, with naufea, and ill tafte of the mouth. 
He had general pains all over his body, and was languid, with a 
quick, though rather firm pulfe (loo). An emetic removed much 
bile from the ftomach, and feveral loofe ftools were procured by a 



SYRIA AND EGYPT. 509 

calomel and faline purge: an anodyne draught, with antimonial 
wine, was given at bed- time. 

Though fbmewhat relieved, the head-ach, fever and thirft conti- Dec. 
nued. The laudanum and antimonial were occafionally repeated, 
and the drink confuted of acidulated rice water, and toaft and water. 

Skin was hot, though a moderate perfpiration continued to break Dec. 
out; tongue white, thirft great; pulfe quick and rather firm (l 00); 
lemonade continued, and five drops of laudanum, with twenty drops 
of antimonial wine, were given every three hours. 

He pafTed a reftlefs night, accompanied with delirium ; the eyes Dec. 
were red, fkin left hot; pulfe quick (108), lefs firm than on the 
7th ; the tongue had a brownifh tinge upon it ; he had two ftools 
during the night ; a blifter was applied to the nape of the neck ; 
bark, with vitriolic acid, were given liberally, and repeated dofes of 
laudanum ; he was ordered to eat freely of oranges, and drink lemon- 
ade ; the head was lhaved, and cloths moiftened with vinegar repeat- 
edly applied. Towards evening the pulfe became more full, accom-r 
panied with a reftleffhefs, and a low muttering delirium ; a blifter 
was applied to the whole of the furface of the head ; petechial fpots 
appeared upon the breaft in the evening ; the pulfe became more 
weak and quick (120); the v ftrength diminiflied, with an anxiety 
and quicknefs in breathing. He began to throw up the bark, &c. 
i Had paffed a reftlefs night, with low delirium ; pulfe quick and Dec 
feeble (120); arms cold; he was conftantly picking at the bed- 
clothes ; tongue and mouth brown and dry ; he did not appear fen- 
fible of the pain of the blifters ; pafled urine involuntarily ; a blifter 



fW MEDICAL JOURNAL, 

was applied to the thighs, and the medicines continued. About 
noon {Simulating finapifms of garlic were applied to the feet. In the 
evening he paffed feveral black ftools involuntarily ; reftlefmefs con- 
tinued; arms cold ; pulfe quick and feeble (130) ; medicines con- 
tinued ; the laudanum draught, with antimonial wine, repeated at 
bed-time. 

Dec. 10. He paffed a very reftlefs night ; ftupor continued, with ftertoreous 
breathing; ikincold; pulfe quick and feeble (130). He expired 
in the afternoon. 

CASES OF PLAGUE. 
CASE L 

A civil artificer, Mace, thirty years of age, was taken, during the 
night of the 10th December 1800, with fevere rigors, vertigo, head* 
ach, and fevere pains in the loins, thigh, &c. accompanied with 
naufea, and vomiting of green bile. At eight o'clock in the morn- 
ing of the 11th December I firft faw him; his fkin was very hot, 
though moift, with a burning kind of feel to the touch ; a quick 
and rather firm pulfe (l2o). He complained of much head-ach ; 
the eyes were red ; tongue tinged, rather of a yellow colour ; great 
third ; the pains of the back and thighs acute. He had had three 
ftools during the night: an antimonial emetic was immediately 
given, and after its operation ten grains of calomel, and a folution of 
Epfom falts. The common drinks were to be lemonade and rice- 
water ; to eat freely of oranges. The emetic removed much bile, 



SYRIA AND EGYPT. 511 

which gave the patient fome fenfible relief. The calomel and falts 
not having procured any evacuation by ftool, the former was re- 
peated, and a dofe of laudanum with antimonial wine at bed-time, 
after the evacuations had been procured. He complained of pain in 
the groin ; and there was a fmall enlargement in the left inguinal 
glands. The pain from this tumor became fo extremely acute, that 
I was called to him about four o'clock in the morning of the 12th. 
It had then fwollen to the fize of a pigeon's egg. The bubo was 
fomented with warm water, and an anodyne draught given. At 
eight o'clock in the morning of the 12th, when I vifited the patient, 
the attendant reported, that the fomentation had relieved the pain 
of the tumor, fince which he had thrown up his drinks, and was now 
fallen into a fleep. 

He expired fuddenly about nine o'clock, A. M. 12th December. 

The bed clothes being removed, many large livid (nearly black) 
fpots, of the lize of a filver threepence, covered the breaft, and other 
parts of the body. 

In each axilke there was a bubo of the fize nearly of a hen's egg. 
The bubo in the groin was of a dark livid colour. Some Arabs were 
employed quickly to inter the corpfe. The very ftrongly marked 
iymptoms of plague in this cafe gave rife to the utmoft vigilance 
and precaution to prevent the infection from fpreading. With this 
intention all the clothes, bedding, &c. &c. ufed by the fick were 
immediately burned. Two attendants within the holpital-tent, as 
well as a patient furTering under typhus, were put into a ftate of 
quarantine, and certain regulations already noticed in my narrative, 



5 i2 MEDICAL JOURNAL, 

were inftantly adopted to prevent the infection from ipreading. The 
oily frictions were had recourfe to upon the three men within the 
hofpital-tent. 

Upon inquiry, the deceafed had been accuftomed to frequent the 
Turkifh coffee-tents, to fmoke and drink coffee. This was prohi- 
bited in future. 

CASE II. 

Gunner Cowden, aged 30, an artillery-man, had a flight indifpo- 
fition on the evening of the 13th December, 1800. He had fome 
head-ach, and a little heat of fkin. 

In the morning of the 1 4th December, he complained of naufea ; 
the tongue was white, having a yellowifh ftreak upon it ; third pre- 
vailed, and the head-ach and febrile fymptoms were increafed. He 
had a trembling upon him, and appeared a good deal agitated ; fome 
fliffnefs and uneafinefs in the left groin. He related, that contrary 
to order, he had not only entered the tent of Mace, on the morning 
of the 12th December, but had fupported him while he took his 
medicine. 

The patient was put into a clean tent by himfelf, within the qua- 
rantine enclofure. An emetic was given, the operation of which 
having fomewhat relieved him, he was ordered an anodyne, with 
antimonial wine, in a draught at bed-time. Lemonade was ordered 
for common drink ; and a calomel bolus in the morning. 
Dec. 15. The febrile fymptoms continued ; countenance flulhed ; eyes red ; 
tongue foul and dry j there was a painful tumor in the left groin, 



SYRIA AND EGYPT. 513 

the fize of a .pigeon's egg; has had ftools. The oily frictions were 
made ufe of this morning, and the anodyne and antimonial draught 
repeated at bed- time. 

The patient perfpired copioufly after the oily friction : tumor Dec. 16. 
neither enlarged nor more painful; the heat of fkin diminifhed; 
countenance rather pale ; eyes clear ; one (tool ; tongue white : he 
was rather flow in anfwering queftions : the friction was repeated 
this morning. Soon after he had a vomiting of bile, and had loofe 
ftools : fmall draughts of warm water were given, followed by a 
dofe of laudanum. 

Palled a reftlefs night ; occafionally delirious ; vomiting had Dec. 17. 
ceafed ; loofenefs continued ; tongue white, with great third; the 
bubo in the groin had a blackifh colour ; when he was fenfible, he 
complained of general pains ; the perfpiration from the frictions 
continued. Several purple fpots upon different parts of the body : 
the anodyne without the antimonial wine repeated. 

Palled a reftlefs night ; delirium continued ; loofenefs abated ; Dec - 18 « 
only two ftools the laft twenty-four hours ; tongue white, with 
great thirft; the petechice more numerous; the bubo rather dimi- 
nifhed, but retaining the blackifh colour; fkin hot and dry; re- 
peated the friction in the morning. However, about one o'clock 
P. M. he was very reftlefs and delirious, and attempted to get out 
of the tent: after thefe efforts he became more calm, and at four, 
o'clock P. M. expired. 

The body was interred by Arabs immediately, and the tent, and 
every article within it, deftroyed by fire. 

3 IJ 



514 MEDICAL JOURNAL, 

A case of ^ civil artificer, Alley, had feveral extenfive venereal ulcerations 

lues venerea, 

dary Tm* m ^ e throat, upon the tonfils, and pofterior part of the palate, ac- 
b^nkrous 01 com P an * e d with venereal blotches upon the face, legs, &c. He had 
acid, at Hkewife chancres. He had taken no medicine whatever. 

Cairo. 

Oct. 21. I ordered him the nitrous acid, diluted in the ufual manner, and 

1801. 

gradually increafed the daily dofe of one drachm to two and three 
drachms. In the ufe of this remedy he perfevered without any 
interruption, gradually getting better, until the 2Qth November, 
when he complained of pain, and uneafinefs of the ftomach from 
the medicine, which induced me to lay it afide for a few days, and 
to fubftitute to it the oxygenated muriate of potafh, in dofes of fif- 
teen grains four times daily. 

Perceiving- on the 0th December a fmall recent ulcer on the left 
tonfil, I refumed the ufe of the acid in dofes of two and three 
drachms daily, in the ufual diluted manner ; and continued this 
treatment until the 1 6th December, when the throat, chancres, 
and eruptions upon the {kin, had perfectly difappeared. During the 
cure a folution of ceruffa acetata, with lint, was applied to the 
chancres. 

Not one grain of mercury in any lhape was employed in the above 
cafe. , 

The general health and ftrength of the patient were much im- 
proved during the ufe of the acid, w . 



SYRIA AND EGYPT. 



S l 5 



An AhjlraSi of Officers, non-commijjioned Officers, Privates, &c. who 
compofed the Military Miff on in 1 799- 

Officers, royal artillery, royal engineers, &c. &c. .... 13 

Non-commiffioned officers and privates, royal artillery . . 30 
Non-commiffioned officers and privates of the royal military 

artificers 24 

Civil artificers 9 



Total . . . ;0 



N. B. With thefe 18 women and 16 children left England. 



AN ABSTRACT OF DEATHS OF OFFICERS AND MEN, 
From January 1799, to October 1802. 



Difeafes -which proved fatal. 



The Number 
of Deaths from 
each Difeafe 



Fever. Malignant, bilious, remittent 

Dyfentery 

Plague - -- - - -- -- -- 

Drowned - -- -- -- -- - 

Pectoral Complaints ------ 

Difeafed- Liver - 

Convuliive Affection, apparently brought 
on by extreme fatigue and great ex- 
pofure to the fun - 

Total . 




Two of thefe were Officers. 



An Ofiicer. 



N. B. Three women and fix children died from fever, dyfentery, convuliions, 
&c. One of the women died under fufpicious fymptoms of plague. 

* Several deaths among the privates have happened fince I left Alexandria. Two of them 
were cafes of plague. 

3 U 2 



HISTORICAL JOURNAL 



HISTORICAL JOURNAL OF PLAGUE, 



A S I have neither the intention nor the ability to enter fully 
into the general hiftory of plague, with all its varieties and 
particulars, I mull: refer the reader, who may wiih for fuch general 
information, to thofe authors who have profefTedly written upon the 
fubjecT: ; and confine myfelf to the relation of the incidents and fads 
collected in the country, with the feveral cafes of plague which I 
have feen, and alfo heard defcribed. I trull: and hope, that as thefe 
remarks are noticed and detailed faithfully, and no particular hypo- 
thecs efpoufed by me at the time they were written, I mall have 
lefs apprehenfion of incurring the fufpicion, either cf having written 
with a view to fupport a particular theory, or of claiming any merit 
from the mode of treatment fuggeflcd. 

In the molt violent attacks of plague the vital principle appears 
to be fuddenly, in a great meafure, extinguished ; or otherwife fo 
much enfeebled, as to render the fyftem capable of refilling the firft 
fhock of the difeafe only for a very fhort time. 

Examples of this kind occurred. Several of the fepoys of the 
Indian army in Egypt, and others, appeared to fink under the firft 
impreflion of the contagion, their attack being fudden, inftantaneous, 
and violent. I was informed that feveral dropt down when in the 
ranks, and died within a few hours afterwards. 



OF PLAGUE. 517 

A civil artificer died after thirty-fix hours illnefs. 
A choarbadgi, or colonel of Janiffaries, died at the expiration of 
two days, within our buildings at Cairo. The death of thefe two 
individuals was inftantaneous, and without a ftruggle. 

The plague may be defined to be a difeafe Jut ge?ierh, which can 
affect perfons more than once in their lives ; and, from a variety of 
circumllances, is evidently contagious. 

The moil evident and leading fymptoms which attend this dread- 
ful malady, are head-ach ; more or lefs fever ; thirft ; generally an 
intenfe or burning internal heat about the prascordia ; naufea, and 
occafional vomiting ; the vefTels of the eyes are turgid, accompanied 
with diarrhcea (which is often a troublefome and dangerous fymp- 
tom) ; hemorrhages ; delirium ; petechias, and large livid fpots cover 
the body in different parts ; buboes in the groin, axilla?, &c. ; car- 
buncles ; an early and great proftration of ftrength, &c. &c. 

Sometimes the difeafe is ufliered in fuddenly and violently ; at 
others the fymptoms commence more flowly, and with more mode- 
ration. This variety and manner in the mode of attack may pro- 
bably depend upon fome particular difpofition or conftitution of the 
fubjecl:, or nature of the prevailing epidemic. 

Upon the decline of the plague feafon, feveral patients are feen to 
recover: the fymptoms of the difeafe at this period are more mode- 
rate, and favourable to recovery. We had examples of this kind 
while with the Ottoman army at Jaffa, &c. in Syria. The fame 
fact is obferved at Conflantinople. Although it has been noticed 
that the plague does not frequently attack the fame perfon more than 



5i 8 HISTORICAL JOURNAL 

once in the fame peftiferous feafon, yet there are inftances where 
this has happened, and where the relapfes which have occurred have 
proved fatal. 

The great Mameluke chief, Mourad Bey, fell a victim to a fecond 
attack in 1801 . 

The conftitutions have been thought more fecure from a fecond 
attack, or even relapfe of difcafe, when the fuppurations have been 
more complete. A good fuppuration afforded the natives a good 
prognofis, they thinking it gave a more favourable ilTue to the difeafe. 

When the buboes fubfide, in place of coming forward, apprehen- 
fions are always entertained for the fafety of the patient : for which 
reafon warm platters and cataplafms arc applied. However, the 
perfect or imperfect fuppuration of buboes appears rather as an index 
of the ftate of the vital energy in the fjftera, than neceffary or ufe~ 
ful as an outlet for morbific matter. The pain of the buboes is fome- 
times moft excruciating, and the furfaces are at times difcoloured 
even to a livid or deep black colour ; at other times the pain is' 
trifling, accompanied with little or no difcolouration of the fkin, 
.. It is fingular, that at this prefent day there mould exift oppofite 
opinions refpecting the contagious principle of plague. There are 
profefQonal men who have come forward, publifhed, and difavowed 
the contagion of plague. There are others who have fo far encou- 
raged and adopted this dangerous doctrine, as to have put it to the 
teft of experiment by the inoculation of thcmfclves. Dr. White, 
formerly a navy furgcon, when in Egypt in 1801, had the temerity 
to inoculate himfelf in the arms with recent matter taken from the 



OF PLAGUE. 519 

bubo of a peftiferous patient,* and likewife rubbed the fame matter 
upon different parts of his body. Not content with endangering his 
own life, he wrapt his Arab fervant in the bedding of an individual 
lately dead of plague. The difeafe was fully produced upon himfelf, 
and buboes formed. He died, I believe the fourth day from attack; 
The Arab fled. I had endeavoured to difcourage him from purm- 
ing this dangerous opinion, that the plague was not contagious, the 
contrary appearing fo manifeft to me upon a variety of occafions. 

To corroborate this latter opinion, I have to relate fbme few facts. 
A pelice, the property of a Turk who died from plague, was given to 
another, who, without fear or thought, put it on his back, caught 
the infection, and quickly died. In this way this pelice might have 
paffed into the hands of twenty more, with the fame apathy and 
fatal effects. 

A gunner of artillery belonging to the military million entered the 
tent of a peftiferous patient, contrary to orders ; fupported the 
fhoulders of the patient, while he took drink ; immediately caught 
the infection, and died at the end of five days, with buboes and 
fymptoms of plague. Vide cafe of gunner Cowden, page 512. 
. I received information from the Imperial Conful and others at 
Cairo, that in 1 80 1 a veffel arrived at Boulac from Upper Egypt, 
laden with fenna. The crew related to the conful, that they had 
loft two men after twenty-four hours illnefs, which report, from all 
the accounts he could collect, induced him to believe the difeafe to 



* Sir Robert Wilfon fays, this was done to try the effects of inoculation, as in fmall- 
pox, and to afcertain whether it would produce a milder difeafe. 



520 HISTORICAL JOURNAL 

have been plague. He made known the circumftance, and the ne- 
ceffity there was for the veffel to be put under quarantine, previouily 
to her departure for Upper Egypt. His laudable advice was ne- 
glected, although he had been a relident in Egypt forty years. On 
the arrival of the veffel at the place of defti nation in Upper Egypt, 
only one of the crew was alive to relate the difmal ftory ; the reft 
had fallen victims to the plague on their paffage. 

This unfortunate man tranfported with him the feeds of the dif- 
eafe to his home, where he foon died, and many others likewife. 

We met, even among the Turks, with fome individuals who 
believed in, and were aware of, the contagious property of plague. 
Mahmoud Reif Effendi, the Reis Effendi, or fecretary of ftate for 
foreign affairs, was extremely watchful and attentive to keep the 
dileafe and infection from himfelf and fuite, by affiduoufly adopting 
fumigations of fulphur, &c. before and after every vifit which he 
made in camp, and by not fuffering a vifit from any one fufpected, 
without ventilation, fumigation of his tent, fophas, &c. &c. Even 
the religious bar among the Mahomedans refpecting wine he readily 
overcame, when told that with bark it was a good prcfervative. 

An old barber doctor in Cairo died in the year 1 801, from plague, 
at the advanced age of ninety-fix years. This man had long been 
celebrated among pcftiferous patients, attended, and bled them occa- 
fionally, and at the age of ninety-fix years caught, for the fir ft time, 
the infection, under which he funk. 

A perfon in Cairo, interpreter to a French officer, who had fallen 
a victim to plague in 1301, caught, the infection from his mafter, 



OF PLAGUE. 521 

and communicated the difeafe to his mother, niece, and another 
perfon within the fame houfe, all of whom died, while two fmali 
children in the fame family efcaped infection. 

The interpreter related to me the manner of attack, &c. &c. The 
firft fymptom of indifpofition which he was fenfiblc of, was a fmall 
pimple, fituated upon the lower part of the abdomen, which ra- 
pidly inflamed, enlarged, and became painful, furrounded with a 
livid circle. At this time he was feized with fhiverings, followed by 
an intenfe burning heat, internal as well as external, accompanied 
with head-ach, and pains of the knees and joints. He had a naufea 
and vomiting, and a bubo appeared in each groin. In two or three 
days a loofenefs came on. 

To the buboes a pitch platter was applied to promote fuppuration, 
which, when effected, they were opened. The carbuncle, which 
formed from the pimple upon the abdomen, was left to burft of 
itfelf. 

The patient took no medicines ; he was aware of the nature of 
his complaint, and kept his mind tranquil ; as he was thoroughly 
convinced that this was abfolutely neceffary for his own fafety. He 
made ufe of a light diet. 

It is, indeed, pretty generally remarked, that tranquillity of mind 
is of the utmoft importance in plague. 

It is obferved by the French, that the plague which comes from 
Upper Egypt, is the moft a&ive and fatal ; it is true, that the year 
J 801 afforded a dreadful example of its malignity and deftruclive in- 
fluence. The difeafe was fo general, and fo fatal where it raged, 
that whole villages, towns, and diftricls, had their inhabitants fvvept 



52 2 HISTORICAL JOURNAL 

off by this cruel fcourge, while the cattle were ftraying about for 
food and owners.* 

The difeafe is faid to travel progreflively from Damafcus in Syria, 
from town to town, until it arrives in Egypt. Sometimes it com- 
mences at Cairo, and travels through Syria ; and then the interme- 
diate towns and places, one after the other, fuffer this fcourge of 
human affliction. 

Thofe who believe that plague is not contagious, fupport their 
opinions by bringing forward a number of incidents to prove, " that 
" perfons who have been expofed to peftiferous patients, and who 
" have had communication with fuppofed infected merchandize, 
se clothes, &c. &c. have efcaped without receiving the infection." 
The fame thing happens nearly with fmall-pox. Indeed, repeated 
inoculations are occafionally abfolutely neceffary to produce the vario- 
lous infection. This fact would feem to imply, that a certain fufcep- 
tibility is required to receive the infection. 

Although an individual may have happily efcaped infection at 
one time, yet it does not follow that the fame good fortune may 
attend him at another ; this fame want of fufceptibility, or what- 
ever may be the power of refilling its baneful effects, may not 
always continue to pervade the habit : and, therefore, the neglect 
of laudable, ufeful, and neceffary precautions, may tend ultimately 
to overthrow the molt hardy and intrepid ; more particularly as the 

* This remark of the French does not correfpond exactly with the information 
which I collected in Egypt, at Cairo : from the moft resectable inhabitants I was in- 
formed, that the plague is not only lefs frequent in Upper Egypt than in Lower 
Egypt, but that the moft violent cafes of infection were thought in general to be im- 
ported from Syria and Lower Egypt. 



OF PLAGUE. 523 

general curative means are fo extremely deficient, or inefficacious in 
plague. 

With all the fa els before my eyes, I have been aftonifhed at the 
indifference of the Muffulmen employed in the burial of the dead, 
to fee them handle and touch the bodies of peftiferous fubjects, as 
though they had died of common difeafes. Every corpfe of a muf- 
fulman is regularly warned and fhaved before interment ; and thefe 
interments are compleat nuifances, the body being fcarcely covered 
by the earth. The putrid exhalations, therefore, from their ceme- 
taries, or burial-grounds, are prodigioufly offenfive in hot weather. 
The perfons employed in the interments, are, however, faid to catch 
the difeafe occafionally and die. 

Query. Probably the fame active infection is not to be received 
from the dead fubjecT; as from the living ? It being faid, " that the 
" moft favourable and fure period for the propagation of plague, is 
** during the ftate of fever. 

A perfon long refident in Egypt allured me, " that the difeafe, 
" for the moft part, appeared among the inhabitants in the folio w- 
" ing order : 

" Blacks and negroes, 

*' Mamelukes and whites ; and laftly, 

" The natives of the country." 

In thefe peftiferous countries, the precautions which the Chrif- 
tians take, render them lefs fubjeel: to plague than the Mahome- 
tans. Yet we are told, that out of 2/0 Greeks, inhabitants of 
Cairo, feventy died of plague in 1801. The Bedouin Arabs of the 



5 2 4 HISTORICAL JOURNAL 

defert, are faid to be much lefs fubject to plague, than the Fellahs, 
or Arab inhabitants of towns and villages. 

It is generally remarked, that a deviation from a light diet under 
this difeafe, and after its recent difappearance, is frequently produc- 
tive of mifchief, in as much as it favours a relapfe, or protracts re- 
covery. 

The danger is proportioned to the diminution of vital energy, 
and extent of fever. Deaths happen from the firft to the feventh, 
and even eleventh days of the difeafe ; the moll frequent from the 
fourth to the eleventh day : yet fatal terminations occur often at 
the expiration of twelve or twenty-four hours. Among the youths 
and middle aged there is faid to be the greateft number of deaths. 

In Egypt, the plague prevails when the Nile is low, about the 
months of March, April, May, and June ; at the latter end of 
June, the difeafe is for the moft part obferved to be upon the de- 
cline. At this period the weather is extremely hot, and the heat 
generally continues during the months of July and Auguft. In June 
1801, Fahrenheit's thermometer fluctuated in the made at Cairo, 
from 100 to 108 degrees; while in July and Auguft the higheft 
was 1 06 degrees : the heat was oppreffive, being reflected from the 
neighbouring mountains of Mokkattam. 

At Conftantinople, the cold weather in winter is obferved to put 
a ftop to plague. We have therefore feen, that the extremes of 
heat and cold are unfavourable to the propagation of plague. 

Since the trade with Egypt has been interrupted during the war, 
Conftantinople has fuffered but little from plague for the three laft 



OF PLAGUE. 525 

years. From the bell information received, and obfervations recently 
made, it would appear that the plague is a native of Africa, and of 
Afia. It is remarked by the inhabitants, that the difeafe is more 
prevalent at Rofetta, than in any other town or part of Egypt. The 
ftreets of Rofetta are extremely narrow and very dirty. The man- 
ner in which the inhabitants live croudedly together, would appear 
fufficient, in a ftagnant flate of the atmofphere, in moft of their 
towns, &c. to generate peflilential or malignant difeafes. The very 
few comforts and conveniences which fall to the lot of the poorer 
clafs of the natives in Egypt, by far the moft numerous, would lead 
one naturally to expect great mortality when the plague prevails 
among them. Dreadful examples are feen annually to happen. 

When I was at Rofetta, in February 1802, I perceived fwampy, 
boggy grounds near to the town, the ditches, and fmall canals con- 
tiguous to which, and the gardens, had offenlive ftagnant waters 
within them.* At this time the plague had broken out at Rofetta, 
and furnimed feveral fatal examples to the Englifh, Greeks, and 
Arabs. The fears and apprehenfions were fo great at Alexandria, 
refpecling the communication with Rofetta, that the Commander 
in Chief, Lord Cavan, obliged all veffels and perfons coming from 

* This obfervation, conne&ed with the preceding one, that the plague prevails 
when the Nile is low, appears to render it probable that this difeafe is merely a malig- 
nant remittent fever. This will appear ftill more probable, when it is considered, that 
buboes and glandular abfeeffes are common in Syria, in cafes where the plague is not 
fuppofed to be concerned. 

Sir Robert Wilfon appears to have formed the above opinion, See his "Work. Alfo 
fee Journal of Syria, Feb. 7, 1801, 



526 HISTORICAL JOURNAL 

the latter place, to perform quarantine previoufly to their entry into 
Alexandria. 

The difeafe had appeared at Alexandria before I left it in March, 
and feveral had died in the lazaretto. This contagion was fuppofed 
to have been imported from Rofetta. The plague is generally ob- 
ferved to commence in commercial places ; and this circumftance 
probably gave rife to the idea, that contagion was imported in articles 
of merchandize, &c. from diflant parts.* 

At the termination of the plague feafon, when one may naturally 
fuppoie that there is the greateft accumulation of infecled materials, 
clothing, bedding, tents, &c. it is lingular (unlefs heat be admitted 
as an ufeful agent in deftroying contagion), that the difeafe mould, 
as it were, difappear of itfelf, and that rather fuddenly.-j* 

* Dr. Mead has thus written in his Difcourfe upon Plague, page 263. " From all 
" that has been faid it appears very plainly, that the plague is a real poifon, which, 
" being bred in the fouthern parts of the world, is carried by commerce into other 
" countries, particularly into Turkey, where it maintains itfelf by a kind of circulation 
" from perfons to goods, which is chiefly owing to the negligence of the people 
" there, who are ftupidly carelefs in this affair : that when the conftitution of the air 
" happens to favour infection, it rages there with great' violence : that at that time 
** more especially difeafed perfons give it to one another, and from them contagious 
f matter is lodged in goods of a loofe and foft texture, which, being packed up, and 
" carried into other countries, let out when opened the imprifoned feeds of contagion, 
" and produce the difeafe, whenever the air is difpofed to give them force ; otherwife 
" they may be difllpated, without any confiderable ill effefts : and laftly, that the air 
" does not ufually diffufe and fpread thefe to any great diftance, if intercourfe and 
*' commerce with the place infected be ftric"tly prevented." 

f An additional corroboration of the opinion, that a marfh vapor may be the caufe 
of plague, and that plague is only a modification of remittent fever. The difference 
«f opinion as to its contagious nature not being demonftrated, furnifhes another cir- 
cumftance in favour of the idea. See what follows in this Journal, and fee alfo Medical 
Journal of Syria, Feb. 7, 1801. 



OF PLAGUE. 527 

A fever with malignant fymptoms prevailed in the neighbourhood 
of Conftantinople in the autumn of 1799- Several fatal cafes of this 
fever, which have been already detailed, occurred in the military 
million in barracks at Levant Chiflick. 

The deaths happened from the fifth to the feventh day. The 
fever was accompanied with occafional fallownefs, or yellow colour 
of the fkin, dark livid fpots, petechias, and a train of unfavourable 
fymptoms. However, the charadteriftics of plague were not prefent; 
there were neither glandular fwellings, buboes, nor carbuncles, &c. 

When the Nile is low, and when the foil of Egypt is in the higheft 
ftate of drynefs, which happens about the months of April, May, and 
June, eddies of wind carry into the air great quantities of fine duft. 
About this time the hot kampfin winds blow from the fouth and 
fouth-eafl occafionally, railing immenfe clouds of this fine fubtle 
dufl into the atmofphere, to the great diftrefs of all animals. The 
inconvenience which occafionally enfues from thefe hot fcorching 
winds is very great to man, as well as to animals. Camels, fowls, 
&c. are faid to have perifhed at Belbeis and elfewhere, in the month 
of June 1801. This wind is called lampjin, which in Arab implies 
fifty, to denote that thefe winds will occafionally blow during the 
fpace of fifty days. From them the fkin becomes dry and parched, 
producing great languor, and proflration of ftrength, which take off 
all ability and inclination to move. The whole of the atmofphere 
is at this time obfcured with the duft, which is fo very fubtle, that 
it pervades the niceft faftening. The air feels as though iffuing from 
the mouth of an oven, and the fands as though on fire ; all metallic 



08 HISTORICAL JOURNAL 

lubilanccs become unplcafantly warm to the touch. At this period 
the plague is fa id to be more general and fatal. 

In the month of June the Ottoman army occupied the right bank 
of the Nile, on its approach towards Cairo. At that time the Nile 
was low, and the water foul. Many people were feized with fudden 
retching and v omiting, without pain, or any other indifpofition : 
this complaint foon fubfided. 

At firft I fought for the caufe in the neglected copper kitchen 
titenfils belonging to the Turkifh cooks. Some attributed this com- 
plaint to the waters of the Nile. The fame thing, however, oc- 
curred to thofe who drank of the waters procured from the wells of 
Mattaree. I rather attributed this affection to weaknefs and great 
irritability of ftomacb, brought on by fatigue, heat, &c. Dyfpeptic 
complaints are extremely common among the Ottomans. Their 
extremely greafy diet is no doubt one of the caufes of this diforder. 

About the above time we had many cutaneous affections. A pain- 
ful puftulary eruption, which was very troublefome, broke out upon 
the body in various parts. Repeated gentle faline purges and anti- 
monials were ufeful in removing this complaint. The occafional 
ufe of the warm bath at Cairo affifted in the removal of the difeafed 
ftate of the {kin. 

The French notice a fimilar cutaneous complaint which happened 
to them, and which they attributed to the waters of the Nile ; and 
hence called it lonton dti Nil. 

When the Nile begins to rife, the water is nearly clear ; foon 
afterwards it affumes a greenifh, and then an ochrey colour. The 



OF PLAGUE. 529 

earthy matter with which the water is at this time abundantly- 
loaded, is ufually fuffered to iubfide before the water is drank. For 
this purpofe great ufe is made in Egypt of a porous earthen veffel, 
which is made in the country, called birdack, and in which the water 
is kept to allow the earth to fall to the bottom. Thefe vefTels arc 
placed in front of the windows, and being extremely porous, the 
water ilTues through them, and hence? by the external evaporation 
from their fides, the contained water is rendered extremely cool and 
agreeable, particularly in a climate like that of Egypt. This is indeed 
a great luxury to the inhabitants, whofe common beverage is water. 

The various colours which the water of the Nile affumes at dif- 
ferent times may probably be owing to the different kinds of earth 
wafhed into the river by the heavy rains which fall in Abyffinia, and 
other remote parts. In the kingdom of Sanaar the foil is faid to be 
of a reddifn colour ; if fo, this may probably give the water of the 
Nile its ochrey appearance. One can fcarcely imagine that a fuffi- 
ciency of putrid vegetable matter could fall into the Nile to give it 
the greeniih colour, which fome perfons have been inclined to attri- 
bute to fuch a caufe. 

St. John's day has been long celebrated for putting an end to 
plague. Certainly about this period we did obferve in Egypt and 
Syria, that the difeafe was upon the decline. However, by the cre- 
dulous great virtues are attributed to the copious dews which are 
obferved to fall about this time. Yet throughout the fummer the 
dews are ufually heavy, but more abundant at one period than at 
another. Thefe dews have been faid to poffefs very ftrong acid pro- 
perties, infomuch that metallic fubliances expofed to them in the 



53 a HISTORICAL JOURNAL 

night are corroded in a fhort time. The truth of this remark I can- 
not confirm. The furface of the ground in many places, particu- 
larly about the mounds of rubbifh at Cairo, is thickly covered with 
nitre ; and upon the ifland of Rondah I have feen the earth fo ex- 
tremely white as to refemble at a diftance a light fall of mow.* 

The prevailing winds, in June and July, were N. W. How far 
may thefe winds be ferviceable in fuppreffing the plague ? 

It is generally believed that contact is neceflary to communicate 
plague ; and that a perfon may hold converfation with one infected 
with impunity, provided he does not touch him, or the garments of 
the peftiferous.'j' 

By the extreme narrownefs of the ftreets of Cairo (a remark of 
general application to the towns of Turkey), in which you cannot 
walk, however public or frequented they may be, without joftling, 
or touching others in paffing, the propagation of difeafe in the plague 
feafon is wonderfully facilitated. When it appears in Cairo, the 
Franks or Chrifhians find from experience that their only fecurity 
confifts in Ihutting themfelves up within their own districts, and 
■within their own dwellings, until the difeafe is paffed over. During 
this confinement, they receive their provifions, and other articles, 
through a hole made in the door, or wall, for the purpofe : thefe 
victuals, &c. are immerfed in water previoufly to their being touched 
or ufed by them. 

* This faline earth the inhabitants collect at the clofe of the year (November, De- 
cember, &c.) at Cairo, and with it make the nitre which is employed in the compofi- 
tion of gunpowder, &c. 

f A Smyrna merchant, who has long lived in the country, allured me, that he 
always took care to get to the windward fide of the patient, as a neceflary precaution, 
when in converfation with a peftiferous fubjeft. 



OF PLAGUE. 53 1 

The merchants of Cairo pofitively affirm, that the oil-fellers and 
water-carriers (the latter are extremely numerous in Cairo), as well 
as the tanners, are not fubjecl to plague. 

At the time when the plague raged at Jaffa, in 1800, there was a 
great mortality among the cattle. Even the dogs fuffered from a 
violent inflammation and fwelling about the genitals, &c. 

Notwithftanding all the experience of the French and others, ftill 
the precife nature and origin of plague appears to be involved in 
doubt and obfcurity. Some have attributed it to the ftagnant 
waters of the Nile, and to certain viciffitudes of the atmofphere. 

It is obferved by Dr. Defgenettes, chief phyfician to the French 
army in Egypt, that the plague attacks more particularly thofe ex- 
po fed to fudden changes of atmofphere, fuch as bakers, blackfmiths, 
cooks, &c. And likewife, that men given to excefs in the ufe of 
fpirituous liquors, and women, are rarely cured of plague. 

:I was informed by a resectable and well-informed inhabitant, and 
a man of obfervation, in Cairo, that after a plentiful inundation the 
plague was obferved to prevail.* And further, that when fmall- 
pox was epidemical in Cairo, where it is generally very fatal, the 
inhabitants ufually expect plague to follow. 



* Seeing that the country may then be compared to an extenfive morafs, or marfh, 
may it not be fuppofed, that from the decay and corruption of much animal or vege- 
table matter, a noxious gas may be generated and exhaled by an ardent heat of the 
fun, fufficient to produce contagion fuch as plague ? 

For my own part I am diffident in forming an hypothecs or theory upon plague, 
feeing that the French phyficians are fo filent upon the fubjecl. They appear to have 
gained little or no better intelligence on the nature and cure of plague than was for- 
merly known, notwithstanding their practice when in Egypt was very- extenfive. 

3 Y 2 



532 HISTORICAL JOURNAL 

In a correfpondence with the Earl of Elgin at Constantinople, I 
lamented I was not in poffeffion of the vaccine matter to introduce 
into Cairo this difeafe, which has been diffufed happily over a great 
part of the world, to the great fecurity and fafety of its inhabitants, 
and which will in time, it is to be hoped, completely annihilate 
fmall-pox from among us. 

Plague is fure to make its appearance annually in fome part of 
Egypt or the other ; either confining its baneful effects to the fpot 
where it flrft broke out, or becoming otherwife diffufed, and fpread- 
ing like wild-fire through villages, towns, and diftricts, fweeping off 
the inhabitants in its progrefs. It has been known to rage fatally 
at Boulack, and difappear without entering Grand Cairo, although 
a diftance of only two miles. Such is the extraordinary nature of 
this difeafe, that it feems to defy all reafoning. 

One would naturally imagine that the mode in which the poorer 
claffes of people who inhabit Cairo and other towns and villages in 
Egypt, &c. are crowded together, would inevitably be productive of 
fome difeafe, particularly in fo warm a climate, one inhabitant of 
London appearing on an average to occupy as much /pace as twenty 
in Grand Cairo. 

The neglect of cleanlinefs in the inhabitants, who live in filthy 
and confined holes, upon a poor diet, with a want of proper and 
neceffary clothing, muff co-operate in the generation of malignant 
difeafes. Again, I have remarked, that when the Nile is low, the 
canal which runs through and about Grand Cairo, is no longer fup- 
plied with frefh waters, its contents becoming ftagnant, and the re- 
ceptacle for much filth and corruption, fuch as the carcaffes of dead 



OF PLAGUE. 533 

dogs, cats, &c. and the rcfufc of much animal and vegetable matter. 
Indeed, the putrid exhalations iffuing from this and other canals in 
and about Cairo, I was witnefs to in 1801, and cannot help think- 
ing that thofe who are fituated near them rauft feel its baneful effects. 
However, I content myfelf to relate the fact, without hazarding a 
further opinion. 

It has been difputed whether plague is native of Turkey, of Egypt, 
or of Africa. To decide may be difficult. It however may be wor- 
thy of remark, that fince the interruption of trade between Egypt 
and Conftantinople during the war, the latter place has been nearly 
free from plague. 

The climate and air of Turkey appear to be good. At Conftan- 
tinople the inhabitants are not fubject to the hot fcorching kampfin 
winds, fo diftreffing in Egypt. 

It is a well known fact, that the plague difappears fuddenly, and as 
fuddenly re-appears, without affording any apparent caufe for thefe 
changes. This happened while we were in Syria, &c. with the 
Ottoman army. 

From all that one has feen and heard, it would appear either that 
the virus of plague does not always pofTefs the fame activity and 
force, or that certain perfons are occafionally infufceptible of its ac- 
tion : and alfo, that from the fudden appearance as well as termina- 
tion of the difeafe, the neceffity of fome powerful agent is implied to 
put the contagion into action, and give it its full force, as well as to 
deflroy its effects when prefent, leaving, however, a fufficiency of 
the contagious principle latent within the country, to propagate the 
difeafe, whenever fuch circumftances mall favour its action, and call 



534 HISTORICAL JOURNAL 

it forth, without having recourfe to the annual generation of frcfii 
matter, or virus, as neceffary to account for the rc-appearance of 
difeafe at each plague feafon. 

May it be imagined that this agent refides in the atmofphere ? 
But whether this peculiar conftitution of the air confilts in a fuper- 
abundance, or in a diminution of the ordinary proportion of oxygen e 
in the atmofphere, or in the combination of fome peculiar gas, or 
gaffes, diffufed in it ; or whether the whole may be brought about 
by variations of temperature only, connected with moifture or dry- 
nefs of the air, I muft confefs my inability to determine. Time 
alone may unfold this myftery. Indeed, a feries of eudiometrical 
and other obfervations, continued for feveral years, at the different 
places in the country, might poffibly throw fome light upon the 
fubject. 

Cure. I am much difappointed to find that fo little light has been thrown 
on plague by the refults of the French practitioners in Egypt. 

I mould have been happy if, after feveral years refidence in a pef- 
tiferous country, where I conftantly fearched for ufeful information, 
my labours had been rewarded in the difcovery of an improved, or 
more fuccefsful treatment of plague. No fuch happinefs has attended 
me ; and as my own experience is, I think, too limited to prefume 
to lay down a plan of cure, I muft in preference content myfelf in 
the relation of the experiments and practice of others, which came 
to my knowledge while in the country. 

For my own part, a prompt and early ufe of remedies appears to 
me of the utmoft importance : indeed, the interval between the 
teizure and death is frequently fo very fhort, that the trial for reme- 



OF PLAGUE. 535 

dies is very limited. I treated the feveral cafes which fell under my 
care, as far as it was practicable, in the manner adopted in fevers of 
the malignant kind, with this difference, that in the fecond cafe I 
conjoined the trial of oily frictions. Although I cannot venture to 
fpeak generally of the treatment of this difeafe, yet I would hazard 
an opinion, that where proper eftablifhments are formed for the 
reception of peftiferous patients, with proper attendants, a cautious 
and fair trial of mercury and the oxygenated remedies would merit 
attention. 

The practice of a Venetian doctor, w 7 ho lately died in Cairo, and 
who was much celebrated for his profefTional fkill and prognofis in 
plague, was, firfl to bleed, but never after the expiration of thirty-fix 
hours from attack. He adminiflered large dofes of camphor, and 
gave the patient a lump of it to hold conftantly in the hand. He 
attended much to diet; gave rice water, chicken broth, boiled cu- 
cumbers, lettuces, &c. and, as a cordial, occafional fmall quantities 
of a diluted fpirit ; but always forbad wine. He entertained the 
opinion that a certain difpofition or fufceptibility in the patient was 
neceffary to the reception of the difeafe. 

A free perfpiration has been generally found ufeful ; copious per- 
fpirations are the fenfible effects of the oily frictions, and are excited 
without diftrefs or inconvenience to the fuffering fick. 

Our interpreter, who was feized at El-Arifh with plague before 
the Vizier's army arrived there, was feen and treated by a Turkifh 
doctor, who had great confidence in a ftrong fpirit w hich is diflilled 
with anifeeds, and is in the country called rackey. He adminiftered 
this fpirit repeatedly and liberally in the day-time to his patient 



536 HISTORICAL JOURNAL 

ivhofe fymptoms of plague were accompanied by a large carbuncle 
formed in the fide, and a bubo in the axilla. As foon as I faw him, 
I recommended the bark liberally to him, and cataplafms to be 
applied to the fore in the fide, which was very extenfive from the 
repeated iloughings that had occurred fince the opening of the 
carbuncle. One of the eyes was feverely inflamed, and it was long 
before he recovered his perfect intellects, as well as his fight. 

The partial and unfteady manner in which plague patients ap- 
peared to be treated among the Turks, I confefs afforded but little 
chance of fuccefs in the removal of the difeafe. 

Bleeding, as a remedy in plague, has been the fubject of much 
difpute among celebrated phyficians. While at Jaffa, it was the 
practice of the Venetian doctors to make ufe of blood-letting. Many 
patients died fuddenly after the operation : the deaths appeared 
haftened by the evacuation of blood. 

The indifcriminate employ of bleeding may be of ferious confe- 
quences in weakening thofe natural powers of the fyflem which 
might be ufefully exerted to the fubduction of -difeafe, 

I ufed the oily frictions in the manner recommended and adopted 
by Mr. Baldwin, late Englifh conful at Alexandria. The detail of 
thefe cafes, and the methods taken to remove the contagion from 
among us, will be found in the Medical Journal in Syria. 

A typhus patient evidently derived great benefit from the ufe of the 
oily frictions. The refult of my obfervations and practice with the 
©il induces me to hope it will be found ufeful as a preventive. I 
repeatedly recommended the frictions with oil to the Turks, but all 
to no purpofe. While their prejudices continue, it will be in vain 



OF PLAGUE. 537 

to attempt reform, or to annihilate the difeafe from among them. 
At Smyrna they continue to ufe the oil in plague, and it is faid that 
this mode of treatment is more efficacious than any other. The 
merchants, however, from whom I collected this account, obferve, 
that the proportional fuccefs with the oil is not every year the fame. 
Sometimes the half and more of the infe&ed are faved, at other 
times not more than a fifth or fixth. 



< 538 ) 



ON OPHTHALMIA. 



A LTHOUGH much has been done both by the rude and en- 
lightened nations in the improvement of medicine in its va- 
rious branches, ftill the field is ample, the art having by no means 
attained perfection. The communication, therefore, of information 
acquired in practice, however trivial the facts may appear at firft 
view, may, at a future period, be found ufeful to others. Encou- 
raged in this opinion, I have been induced to arrange what has oc- 
curred to me upon ophthalmia ; and mail be extremely happy if any 
good (hall refult from my obfervations and practice. For except the 
plague, I think there is not a difeafe in Syria and in Egypt which 
produces more dreadful fufferings and diftrefsful confequences than, 
ophthalmia. The difeafe is there endemial, and rages with violence 
annually, about the time when the Nile is low, and the country in 
a ftate of extreme drynefs. 

In the months of May, June, July, and part of Auguft, in the 
year 1801, ophthalmia raged among the Englifh and Ottoman ar- 
mies in Egypt. At that time the weather was extremely hot and 
oppreffive, occafionally accompanied by the kampfin, and by hot 
fcorching winds from the north-eaft and north-weft, carrying clouds 
of duft into the atmofphere. The difeafe was then common, and 



ON OPHTHALMIA. 539 

extremely diftreffing ; for the troops being encamped, no better 
fhelter could be procured for the fick than a tent (thofe employed 
by the Ottomans are made of thin cotton), through which the vivid 
and piercing rays of the fun eafily pervaded, to the great annoyance 
and pain of the fuffering patients. 

The ophthalmy of Egypt did not appear to differ from what we 
had feen in Syria, i. e. at Jaffa, Ramla, Gaza, &c. At Jerufalem, 
at Bethlehem, and in their environs, the difeafe and its effects were 
manifested, though with lefs violence. 

It was painful to view its effects at Jaffa, where it appeared to 
me that the one half of the inhabitants had loft either one or both 
the eyes. Their houies are built of a white friable calcareous {lone, 
the ftreets are very narrow, and they live in a very confined manner, 
tending to generate difeafe. 

The difeafes of the eyes which prevail in Syria and in Egypt, 
among the natives, appear often connected with fcrophulous affec- 
tions, and frequently to refult from the fmall-pox. The children 
are in general badly nouriflied, have enlarged mefenteric glands, and 
a pallid and unhealthy countenance. Difeafed eyes among the in- 
fants are common : they bear their fufferings with wonderful tran- 
quillity, although the eyes are loaded with matter, flies, and other 
fmalt infects, which are prodigioufly numerous in thofe countries. 
Neither fex nor age appears to be exempted from this malady : I 
think, however, that the poorer claffes of inhabitants are more af- 
fected than the wealthy. Pforophthalmy is common among the 
Syrians and Egyptians, who fuffer repeated attacks of inflammation 

3 z 2 



540 ON OPHTHALMIA. 

of the eyes, which ultimately reduce many of them to the mofl 
pitiable {late imaginable ; from cataracts, opacities of the cornea,, 
and, in many individuals, from complete fuppurations of the whole 
eye, &c. &c. Vafl multitudes of thefe people are reduced to abib- 
lute blindnefs ; and federal hundreds of them are lodged and nou- 
rished in a mofque in Cairo. 

The Bedouin Arabs are lefs fubject to ophthalmy than the inhabi- 
tants of towns and villages. 

Ophthalmy is not confined to the human race, horfes, camels, 
dogs, affes, &c. being fubject to inflammations of the eyes, and the 
effects of this diftreffmg difeafe, in Egypt and Syria. 

In September and October the difeafe had nearly difappeared at 
Cairo and its neighbourhood. At that time the whole of the coun- 
try was nearly inundated, and the weather become moderate and 
more pleafantly cool. 

Upon an infpection of the fick of the royal artillery attached to 
the Britifli army, when it was before Cairo, many cafes of fevere 
ophthalmia occurred. Several of the fufferers are fince returned to 
England, and labour under an impaired vifion, the confequence of 
a difeafed {late of the humours of the eye, as well as of opacities of 
the cornea, together with morbid accumulation of the aqueous hu- 
mour, as hydrophthalmy, &c. &c. 

I lhall now relate the Jymptoms of ophthalmia, and the mode in 
which they appeared in Syria and Egypt. 

The difeafe frequently came on very fuddenly, ufhered in with a 
fenfation, as though duft or fome other irritating extraneous matter 



ON OPHTHALMIA. 54 i 

had fallen into the eye. Heat and pain foon followed. Sometimes 
the complaint was confined to one eye, at others it attacked both at 
once. Inflammation and fwelling of the eye-lids quickly eufued, 
accompanied with an increafed flow of tears. In a few hours the 
tumefaction had completely clofed the lids, and in the morning, after 
fleep, a purulent or thick matter glued them together. 

The apparent cattfes of the difeafe are, the application of heat and 
light ; irritation from particles of fand or duff. ; and the occafionat 
expofure to night air. 

While in Egypt, I was frequently induced to believe that the 
mounds of rubbifh which numeroully furround Cairo, Alexandria, 
&c. furnifhed a peculiar caufe for the frequency and feverity of this 
difeafe in that neighbourhood ; feeing that thefe mounds are formed 
of various kinds of rubbifh, ruins, &c. among which is much old 
mortar (i. e. lime and fand, or mud) which might operate in a 
mechanical manner upon the tender and delicate membranes of 
the eye, and hence prove a fource of difeafe. This rubbifh is, by- 
its expofure to a fcorching fun, reduced into a fine fubtle powder, 
which is eafily acted upon by the leaft pufF of wind, and driven 
into the atmofphere, to the annoyance and inconvenience of every 
one. Thofe who have been near thefe places during a kampfin, 
have painfully experienced the truth of this obfervation ; fince 
on thefe days, when the wind blows brifkly, there is a general hazi- 
nefs of atmofphere, from the fine particles of duft fufpended in the 
air. Cairo and Alexandria are particularly expofed to the baneful 
effects of thefe accumulations, which overhang and furround the 



542 ON OPHTHALMIA. 

above places. Some difficulty attends their removal at Cairo ; fee- 
ing that the inhabitants cannot fpread the rubbifh over the land, 
as it would in time heighten the furface of the country fo much, as 
to deprive them of the full benefit of the inundation of the Nile. 

S 

At Alexandria this would be more practicable. Stone-mafons, and 
perfons employed in the making of lime, are particularly fubject to 
ophthalmy and pulmonary complaints, from the irritation excited 
by the particles of lime and of {tone upon the tender and delicate 
membranes of the eye and lungs. 

The nitrous particles in the air have been by feveral numbered 
among the caufes of ophthalmia in Egypt. Although the earth in 
many places is highly charged or impregnated with nitrate of potafh, 
yet I fee no reafon to attribute the prevalence of -the difeafe to this 
caufe. 

Some circumftances have recently occurred among the troops on 
their return to England from Egypt, which have given rife to an 
opinion, that the difeafe is infectious. Notwithstanding I mull con- 
fefs that nothing came within my particular obfervation to confirm 
fuch an opinion, ftill I fhall relate a circumftance which occurred 
while we were at Jaffa, in Syria. 

The New Adventure tranfport, on board of which were the 
women and children of the detachments of the miffion, was fent, in 
the month of Auguft 1 800, with difpatches to Cyprus, dcflined for 
Conftantinople. While they remained at Cyprus, which was for a 
few days only, the women and children went on fhore. They were 
fuddenly and feverely attacked with an inflammation of the eyes, 



ON OPHTHALMIA. 543 

with which none of the failors on board w T ere affected. The medi- 
cal man to whom they applied for relief at LarniCa, in the above 
ifland, mentioned, that the difeafe was then prevalent, and that he 
confidered it to be infectious. Upon their return to Jaffa, I went 
on board, and found feveral of them then fuffering from the difbrder 
with much pain, inflammation, and fwelling of the eyelids, and 
with fmall ulcerations upon the tarfi. The difeafe yielded to the 
faturnine lotion, blifters, ftimulating ointment, and laudanum. 

For my own part I never met with any other incident to fupport 
the opinion of the contagious nature of ophthalmia either in Egypt 
or in Syria. It appears to me, that from the ftrong glare of light, 
and heat to which the eyes are expofed during the fummer months, 
a local predifpofmg debility in the veffels of thefe organs is induced 
to a fufBcient degree to excite ophthalmia upon the application or 
infertion of an irritating fubftance within the eye, fuch as particles-- 
of fand, lime, &c. unlefs- thefe are fpeedily removed. 

I am induced to think that I preferved my own eyes and thofe of 
others from this malady, by an attentive and frequent ablution of 
them with cold w 7 ater, particularly after the daily expofure to the 
folar rays and duft, during our march through the defert. 

The expofure to night cold, during the fall of the great dews, I ' 
am inclined to believe operates as an exciting caufe to the difeafe. ' 
The ponderous turbans and ihawls ufually worn on the heads of the 
Muffulmen afford no protection to the eyes, but leave them expofed 
to the full a&ion of dull, light, and heat, which fubject them more 
particularly to ocular inflammations. Indeed, the difeafe is at all 
times very common among them. 



544 ON OPHTHALMIA. 

The Vizier himfelf fuffered occafional attacks of ophthalmy, which 
were removed by a collyrium made with the acetite of lead, water 
and vinegar, and the ufe of a fhade of green filk, &c. 

The general intentions of cure in the treatment of ophthalmia 
were, the refolution of the inflammation ; the removal of the con- 
fequences which frequently occurred from inflammation; and the 
induction of fuch a ftate of the eye as to prevent the return of oph- 
thalmia where there was a difpofition to its attacks. 

The remedies which I adopted were a weak folution of the acetite 
of lead, water and vinegar, combined with gentle aperients. The 
eyes were kept fhaded as much as poffible from the ftimulus of heat 
and light. 

If the firft, or primary fymptoms, fuch as pain, rednefs, and fwel- 
ling, were not foon relieved, blifters to the temples Were applied, 
which frequently leffened the tumefaction. The veffels of the eye- 
lids were found loaded with blood, the inflammation afTuming a 
deep crimfon colour. Relief having been procured, the applica- 
tion of ftimulants was then of infinite fervice. 

The ung. hydrargyr. nit. lowered in the proportion of one part 
to three of ung. ccrse, inferted into the eyes with a hair pencil, and 
the tincl. opii dropt in after the ufe of the ointment, night and 
morning, were of the greateft benefit, and in a variety of cafes foon 
effected a cure. This was not, however,, always the cale ; for where 
the difeafe was more fcvere, and refifted the firft treatment, the 
tunica adnata became more or lefs inflamed, and the pain more in- 
tenfe. In fuch cafes the gorged vefTels of the adnata and thofe of 
the lids were divided, and this was repeated as often as circumftances 



ON OPHTHALMIA. • 545 

feemed to require, without any inconvenience attending the opera- 
tion. The patients were repeatedly purged, and blifters applied to 
the temples, behind the ears, to the nape of the neck, &c. Leeches 
could not be procured in the country ; and indeed fuch was our 
want of them at Cairo, that the Vizier was obliged to fend to Jeru- 
falem for a fmall fupply. If head-ach, or deeply feated pain within 
the eye, haraffed the patient, and was connected with an increafe 
of general vafcular action, as with pyrexia, in fuch like cafes general 
evacuations, as bleeding and copious purging, were adopted, and 
ufefully employed. The fhaving of the fore part of the head, and 
cold water and vinegar frequently applied to diminifh the force of 
circulation in the vefTels, particularly in the neighbourhood of the 
difeafed part, were alfo found ferviceable. 

In many recent cafes, fmall and painful ulcerations formed upon 
the edges of the lids. In fuch cafes the llimulating ointment of 
nitrated mercury, and tinct. opii, were extremely beneficial, and 
fpeedily effected a cure. But in neglected, and in obltinate cafes, 
opacities of the cornea frequently enfued, which reduced the patient 
to a temporary, partial, or abfolute blindnefs. Some melancholy 
cafes happened, in which the eye completely fuppurated, and wafted 
away. In recent opacities, the ointment and laudanum were very 
ufeful. Although I found thefe remedies the moft efficacious in re- 
moving the difeafe, yet I could not employ them very generally 
among the Ottomans, who do not comprehend the utility'of reme- 
dies which give pain. It is true that there were exceptions to this 
remark among fuch of the Turks as entertained fewer prejudices, 

4 A 



546 ON OPHTHALMIA. 

and who, poflefling a greater degree of confidence, fubmitted to the 
ftimulants, and profited by them. 

The collyrium, compofed of the acetite of lead, water and vinegar, 
alone cured great numbers of the Ottomans : indeed, this warn be- 
came fo celebrated among them, that I was obliged to furnifh the 
interpreter of the Vizier with a quantity of the acetite of lead, with 
directions to make the collyrium for the ufe of his Highnefs and 
others, on their return to Conftantinople from Cairo. 

In the early part of my practice I hefitated to apply the ftimulants 
until the primary fymptoms were fenfibly alleviated ; after three,, 
four, or fix days, when obferving a peculiar fulnefs and relaxed 
ftate of the internal membrane of the eyelids, from the diftended 
ftate of the veffels, and which was in many cafes accompanied with 
fmall ulcerations of the tarfi, this condition of the parts conftituting 
the fecondary ftage of the difeafe, indicated and prompted me to 
apply ftimulants earlier, and with much benefit. 

A gaping, or an inverfion of the eyelids, occafionally occurred in 
fome -violent, tedious, and obftinate cafes of ophthalmy, producing 
deformity, and a temporary deprivation of fight, from the great 
relaxation and elongation of the internal furface of the palpebra. 
The moft remarkable cafe of it which I faw, happened to a foldier 
at Giza, belonging to the Indian army. The internal membrane of 
the upper lid formed a flap of at leaft two thirds of an inch in depth, 
hanging down, and completely clofing the eye. Various aftringent 
collyriums were ufed to diminifh and reftrain its growth. 

Irritability and weaknefs of the eye were relieved by aftringent 



ON OPHTHALMIA. 547 

collyriums of vitriolated zinc, alum, &c. Frequent ablutions with 
cold water, and vinegar and water, and protecting the eye from 
ftrong light, were found of advantage. 

The munning of the night air, the wearing of broad-brimmed 
hats, or lhades, in order to protect the eyes from the folar rays, and 
frequent ablutions with cold water, conftitute an elfential part of the 
means of prevention of this difeafe. 

The Egyptians, &c. draw blood from the temples by fcarifying 
the parts. They have likewife remedies which they occasionally 
employ in this difeafe. 

They take, for example, equal quantities of powdered galls, and 
crude antimony, and mix thefe ingredients with vinegar, into the 
confidence of a pafte, with which they anoint the eyes. 

Antimony is one of the common pigments of the women to 
blacken their eyelids and eyebrows. 

Another celebrated remedy with them is a collyrium, compofed 
of equal parts of chizmeh * powdered, fugar candy, and alum mixed 
with vinegar. 

The French practitioners make mention of a fpecies of ophthalmy 
depending upon a bilious ftate of ftomach ; likewife another fpecies 
accompanied with a fpafmodic affection of the globe of the eye. I 
do not recollect to have met with either of thefe defcriptions of oph- 
thalmia in the country. 



* A fmall black fhining feed, which comes from Darfour, of which I collected a 
fmall portion. 



( 549 ) 



METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL. 

THE following Tables contain a correct ftatement of the Thermometer 
(Fahrenheit's), the prevailing Winds, Barometer, &c. as obferved by me, three 
times daily, in Turkey, Afia, Syria, through the Defert, and in Egypt, from 
June 1799, to March 1802. 

In order to give an idea of the Force of the Wind, and the Quantity of 
Rain fallen, during each day, I have had recourfe to numbers ; as will be feen 
marked in a Column of the Tables, at the period they were firft noted down. 

At the expiration of a few months, 1 was obliged to lay afide the ufe of the 
Barometer, Eudiometer, and Pluviometer, which I had been accuffomed occafion- 
ally to employ, it being impoflible to make ufe of thefe inftruments when 
travelling. 



STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, BAROMETER, &c. 
In the Month of June 1799, at Buyukdere, in Turkey. 



June 



Thermometer, 
Morning. 



Thermometer, 
Noon. 



Thermometer, 
Evening. 



Days of 
Month. 


Hour. | 


| Shade. | 


Sun. 


Wind. 


Force 
of the 
Wind 


| Hour. 


Shade. 1 


Sun. 


Wind. 


Force 
of the 
Wind 


| Hour. 1 


j Shade. 1 


Sun. 


Wind. 


Force 
of the 
Wind 


Barom. 


Rain. 


Remarks 


25 


9 


79 


89 


NNE 




I 2 


8l 


79 


NNE 




7 


74 


87 


NE 










26 


8 


72 


94 


Calm 




12 


79 


87 


Calm 




7 


7 1 


81 


E NE 




30. 20 






27 


8 


78 


82 


E NE 




12 


82 


94 


E NE 




7 


7 1 


85 


E NE 




30. 10 






28 


8 


73 


90 


E NE 




2 


81 


94 


NNE 




8 


70 


89 


E NE 




30. IC 






29 


8 


74 


92 


NNE 




12 


81 


97 


NE 




8 


72 


80 


E NE 











N. R. The latter fortnight of this month (June) we had frequent heavy fhowers of rain, 
accompanied with much thunder and lightning ; great variations of temperature, fometimes 
very oppreffively hot, then fuddenly changing to cool. Winds prevailed moftly from N. N. E. 
and E. N. E. Thermometer ranged from 72 to 82 in fliade. Barometer 30 to 30.20. 



( 55° ) 

STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, BAROMETER, &c. 
During the Month of July 1 799, at Buyukdere, in Turkey. 



Thermometer, 
Mornincr. 



Thermometer, 
Noon. 



Thermometer, 
Evening. 



9 77 
977 
87^, 
80S 
978 
872 



7 
9 
9 
879 



882 



81 

78 

79 
82 



981 



80 

79 

7 " 
80 

72 

9 
82 



882 



8 83 
887 



Sun. 



78 
89 

83 
I OO 

97 



Wind. 



89 E NE 
82 E NE 
Calm 
E NE 
Calm 
Calm 
Calm 
92'E NE 
94E NE 
94I E 
95 E NE 
91 E NE 
93 ! E NE 
89,E NE 
Calm 

E 
Calm 

m 

Calm 
E 

S SE 



94 

1 OJ. 



90 
94 
1Q 5 



9 1 

102 

95 
101 
102 

90 

93 

I oc 

98 



I04NNE 

NE 
Calm 
NE 
Calm 
E NE 
NE 
E 
E 
E 



Force 
of the 
Wind 



96IN NE 



3 83 
8l 

83 
80 

79 
88 

87 
88 

87 

87 
86 



1 

2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 

389 
95 
87 
84 
4 
86 



Sun. 



89 

88 
86 

87 
88 

'7 



90 
88 
86 
86 
84 

85 

88 



90 



95 

98 

98 



97 
95 
97 



Wind. 



E NE 



89 E NE 
88 E NE 
82 E NE 
Calm 
NE 
E 
E NE 
94 E NE 
E 
E 
E 



94 
99 
94 
98 



93 E NE 
97 E NE 
88 NE 
E 
E 
E 
E 
S SE 
N NE 
NE 
NE 
NE 
NE 
E 
NE 
E 
E 
E 
NNE 



> a 

94 
90 
90 

93 
109 

109 

95 

97 
103 

97 
95 



Force 
of the 
Wind 



X 



778 

77 1 

870 

7 
871 
8 72 
8 74 
775 
7 77 
7 79 
776 

75 
879 

73 
877 

7 77 
778 

7 78 

7 75 

7 79 

77c 

7 
7 
7 
7 
7 
7 



72 
70 

77 
77 
9 
79 
776 

7 77 
7 78 
776 



Sun 



73 
73 
77 



Wind. 



82 E NE 
79 E NE 
70 Calm 
76 E NE 



Calm 
NE 
E 

78E NE 
78 E NE 
79 E NE 
78 E NE 
78 NE 
75 E NE 



72 
78 
91 

80 

79 
76 
81 
72 
74 
74 
79 
79 
8c 

85 
79 
79 
79 



Calm 
NE 
E 
E 
E 
E 
Calm 
Calm 
NE 
NE 
Calm 
Calm 
E 

NE 

E 

E 
Calm 



79 NNE 



Force 
of the 
Wind 



Barom 



1 1 



30. IO 
30. IO 
30. 1C 

3° 
30. x 

3°- 

3°- 

3°- 

3°- 

3°- 

3°- 
30. 10 

3°- 

3°- 

3°- 
30. 10 

30. 10 

30. 10 

30. IO 

29. 25 
29. 30 

29. 90 
3°- 

3°- 5 

30. 10 

29. 85 

29. 95 

30. 6 
30. 6 

2 9- 33 
29. 7 



Rain 



Rain 



Rain 



Remarks 



N. B. The firft week of this month was opprcflively warm. Although we had fome 
cloudy days, with moderate mowers of rain on the 4th, the Thermometer ranged from 68 
to 88 in made; and in the fun, from 73 to 98. Winds moderate, E. N.E. Barometer 30 
to 30.11. The 1 7th fhowers of rain. 



( 55* ) 



STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, BAROMETER, &c. 
During the Month of Auguft 1799, at Buyukdere, in Turkey. 



Thermometer, 
Morning. 



Thermometer, 
Noon. 



Thermometer, 
Evening. 



8 



78 



872 
870 
878 
878 
881 
881 
882 
881 
881 
6 86 
882 
880 
880 
880 

8 75 
878 

878 

878 

878 

876 

882 

885 

880 

880 

880 

878 

870 

870 

8 75 

8 75 



Sun 



92 



NNE 
88NNE 
E NE 
87 E NE 
98 E NE 
E NE 
94 E NE 
97 E NE 
E NE 
Cairn 
NNW 
S SE 



92 
81 



101 

98 



100 
104 

75 
107 



"3 
120 

124 

100 



1 10 

70 

73 
1 10 



Wind. 



109 E NE 
NNE 
NE 
NE 
NNE 



107 NNE 
107NNE 
113NNE 



Calm 
Calm 

N 
NNE 



100NNE 
Calm 



N 
NW 
N 

N 



Force 
of the 
Wind 



1 1 5I Calm 



80 
80 
81 
80 
82 
82 
82 

83 

87 

85 

83 
86 

80 

82 

82 

77 
78 
79 
78 
79 
83 
85 

85 
81 

79 
80 

80 

70 

72 

75 
75 



Sun 



Wind. 



94 NNE 

94 NNE 
92ENE 
80 E NE 
82E NE 
82 E NE 
89E NE 
84 E NE 
88 E NE 

Calm 
Calm 
E NE 
89 E NE 
89 E NE 
NE 
NE 
NNE 
89 NNE 
87 NNE 
NNE 
94NNE 

95 NNE 
119 N 

1 04 N NE 



100 

83 
92 



97 
94 
93 



92 

9 1 

10 5 

70 

79 

90 

95 



NNE 
NNE 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 



Force 
of the 
Wind 



t3 



874 

8 72 
768 
772 

73 

75 

77 

79 
770 

782 

776 

83 
7 81 
780 
771 
77 6 

7 73 

7 75 
77 6 

7 77 
782 

&i 

'9 



7 
7 
7 79 
79 

77 

778 

7: 
770 
72 
70 



Sun 



76 

83 
8l 

80 

79 
76 

73 
75 



83 
82 IS 

80 

81 

81 



78 
70 
70 
72 
72 



Wind. 



78 NNE 
79N 
70 

74 

76E 
78E 

78 

79 E 
78 E 
83 WSW 

Calm 
Calm 
E NE 
E NE 
NE 

n: 

NNE 
NNE 



NE 
NE 
E NE 
NE 
NE 
E NE 
NE 
I NE 



76NNE 
77^- 



n t NE 
Calm 
^ T NE 

N 
NNE 
NNE 
78 NNE 



N 
N 
N 
N 
N 



Force 
of the 1 
Wind 



.barom. 



29. 7 

30. 12 

3°- 

30. 17 

30. 18 

3°- *5 
3°- '5 



29. 

3°' 

3°' 
29. 



26 
10 



3°- 

3°- 

3°- 
o. 



3°- 
3°- 



9 
1 o 

10 

10 

1 o 

3°- 5 
29. 90 
29. 90 
29. 96 
29. 92 
29. 92 

29. 92 
30. 

30. 10 
30. 15 
3°- l S 



Rain. 



9 Rain 



do. 



Rain 
do 

do, 



Remarks 



Cloudv 
do. 



Cloudy 



Cloudy 
do. 
do. 
do. 



N. B. To give an idea of the force of the prevailing winds, I have introduced the figures 
1, 2, 3, 4: for inftance, 1. denotes little wind 5 2. a gentle breeze ; 3. ftrong breezes; and 
4. a gale. 



( 55 2 ) 



STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, BAROMETER, &c. 





During the 


Month of September 


1799, at Buyukdere, in Turkey. 


Sept. 


l hermo.-.eter, 
Morning. 


Thermometer, 
Noon. 


Thermometer, 
Evening. 





865 
87c 
870 

7 

70 
70 

73 

876 
76 
77 
74 
72 



87 
8 

8 



877 
876 

8 77 
8 75 

874 

«73 



Sun 



l 

] 1 

74 

7 
1 1 

8c 

15 

84 
09 
07 
20 
09 
24 
1 

24 

l 7 

04 

Q 



/ 

92 
2 I 

22 
l6 

DO 

07 

97 
1 2 

o 

13 

7 



Wind. 



4 N NE 
NNE 
N 
4 N NE 
N 
N 
N 
N 

OTP 

s sw 
ssw 

Calm 
SE 
NE 
E NE 
Calm 
NE 
NW 
SSW 
Calm 
SSW 
Calm 
N 
NE 
NE 
NNE 
NE 
N 
NE 
SE 



Force 
of the 
Wind 



in 

76 
79 
74 
72 

70 

7i 
72 
7 1 
7> 

74 
75' 
74 
75 
75 

75 

76 

75 
7 

69 

7 1 

76 
75 
74 
74 
74 
74 
74 
74 
73 

74 



Sun. 



9 1 



89 
IO 
82 

74 

97 
107 

97 
90 

9 

9b 
118 

1 1 2 
1 1 

105 

92 
1 09 
10c 

98 

95 E 
101 
114 
1 o 
102 
j 01 

98 

97 

99 
102 

io 



Wind. 



N 
9 NNE 
N 
N 
N 
N 
N 
N 
E NE 
N 
N 
N 

< NE 
NE 
NE 
NE 
E NE 
NE 
NE 
E NE 
S 
E 

NE 
NE 
NE 
N NE 
N 
N 
NE 
SE 



74 
5 77 
572 
670 



5 



08 



5 7o 
5 6 9 
5 6 7 
57° 
72 
572 
57i 
572 



72 
72 
5 74 



5 b 7 
5 7o 

5 75 
572 
572 
57i 
5 73 
572 
572 
572 
572 
5 72 



oun. 



Wind. 



74 

71 

70 
72 

70 

69 

7o 
80 
76 

79 
78 E 

76 

77 

82 

81 
72 
70 
82E 
107 

75 

73 
74 E 

79 
76 

74 
76 
80 



1 02 



74 NNE 
79 NNE 
N 
N 
N 
N 
N 
N 
N 
N 
N 
N 
NE 
NE 
NE 
Calm 
E NE 
NE 
NE 
NE 
S 
E 

NE 

: ne 

NE 
N NE 
N 
N 
NE 
NE 



Force 
Df the 
Wind 



Barom 



30. 10 

3°- 
30. 10 

30. 14 

30. 24 

3°- 25 

3°- 9 

3°- *5 
30. 19 

30. 16 

30. 6 

30. 6 

30. 16 

3°- 3 
30. 1 

30. 1 

3°- 5 
30. 10 

3°- !5 

3°- *7 
30. 10 

30. 19 

30- 23 
30. 18 

30. 24 

3°- 3° 
30. 27 

30. 24 

30. 10 

2 9- 95 



Rain. 



Rain 
do. 
do. 



Rain 
do. 



Remarks 



Cloudy 
do. 



Foggy 



C 553 ) 



STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, BAROMETER, &c. 
During the Month of October 1799, at Buyukdere, in Turkey. 



Thermometer, 
Morning. 



Thermometer, 
Noon. 



Thermometer, 
Evening. 



Sun. 



874 
872 

8 68 

81/ 
S70 
8 6g 
862 

8 59 
-859 
865 
8 68 
8,68 
8'54 
8 57 
8 54 
860 
867 
872 



Wind. 



II9SSW 

1 18S sw 
124S sw 
68 N 
106NNE 



98 
65 



S 

SW 
102 WNW 
62 WSW 



Force 
of the 
Wind 



61 



73 

IOi 

59 



Calm 



1 15 WSW 
N 
E NE 
Calm 
6ojWSW 
54WSW 
84IWSW 



87 
94 



NE 
S 



1 

2 

3 
1 

1 

2 
1 
1 
1 

1 

1 
1 

1 
1 
1 
1 

2 



75 
76 
1 

69 
70 

65 
59 
6c 
60 

65 

09 
68 

64 
66 

59 
57 
65 
64 

74 



Sun. 



1 06 
IOC 

1 10 

69 



69 

103 

109 

67 

68 



Wind. 



SW 
SSW 
SSW 

N 
NNE 
69 SSW 
60 N 
60 WNW 
60 WSW 
N 
N 
N 
NE 
NE 
67 WSW 
59 NE 
97 WSW 
90 E NE 
84 S SW 



63 

73 
70 

67 



74 Calm 
92 S 
98 Calm 
71 NE 



Force' 
of the' 
Wind I 



5 74 

575 

80 

5 65 
569 
62 

5 55 
5 56 
5 59 
564 
68 
560 
5 6° 
5 57 



;8 
56 
554 
562 

57 



Sun. 



Wind. 



76 SW 
S SW 
85 S SW 
N 
N 

65 SSW 
59 E NE 

59 S 
5 9 WSW 



67 
79 



65 
70 

98 

60 

59 

65 

57 
68 

70 



N 
N 
N 
NE 
NE 
N 

NW 

N 
E NE 

84 S SW 



t orce 
of the 
Wind 



Barom. 

29. 90 

30. IO 

3°- 

30. 20 

3°- 

29. 89 

3?- 

3°- 

3°- 

3°- 3° 

3°- 3° 

3 3 - 35 

j.3°- 2 4 

j3°- J 3' 

!3°- 7 
60. 

i3°- 5 

30. 21 

3°- 7 



Rain. 



Rain 
Rain Cloudv 



Remarks 



do. 




do. 


do. 


do. 


do. 


do. 


do. 


do. 


do. 


do. 


do. 


do. 


do. 


do. 


do. 


do. 


do. 


do. 


do. 



4 B 



( 554 ) 



STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, BAROMETER, &c. 
During the Month of November, 1799, in the Dardanelles, at Chennecally in Afia. 



Thermometer, 
Morning. 



Thermometer> 
Noon. 



Thermometer, 
Evening. 



870 

8 66 
864 
86- 
8 6l 
862 
8 66 
b 56 
845 
849 
851 
8 5c 

8 54 

8 54 

8 53 
852 

845 

848 

845 

845 

843 
842 

8 43 
843 
838 
8 44 
8 35 



Sun 



79 
70 
80 



Wind. 



80 E NE 
89 E NE 
85 E NE 
Calm 
N 
NE 



73SSW 
56 
47 



E 
E SE 
57 E SE 
69 E SE 
53NNE 
54 NNE 

54 E SE 
53 E SE 
65 E NE 
45NNE 
48NNE 
4 § N NE 
45 N NE 
43NNE 
49NNE 
00NNE 
53 SW 
56 N 
44 N 

55 N 



torce 
of the 
Wind 



270 
268 
268 

66 

65 
66 

7 1 

58 
5 1 
55 
59 
56 
54 
53 
57 
58 
56 
45 
49 

46 
46 

47 

^8 

55 

5 2 
250 

5 2 



bun 



70 
92 



77 
60 



Wind. 



70ENE 

89 ENE 
86ENE 
86 E NE 
N 
NE 



74SSW 



E 
Calm 
78NNE 
80 E SE 
80NNE 
54 E NE 
53 E SE 
84NNE 
88 N 
56NNE 
45 N NE 
55NNE 
46NNE 
60NNE 
73 NNE 
48NNE 
75 SW 

73 N 

70 N 

91 N 



Force 
of the 
Wind 



X 



568 
565 

565 
562 

565 

564 

57 1 

5 56 
5 5° 
5 5° 
5 5° 
5 54 
5 54 
55 2 
5 5° 
5 54 
5 54 
5 45 
548 
5 46 

5 45 
5 4o 
5 48 
5 54 
5 5° 
5 48 

5 5 2 



Sun. 



Wind. 



68 E NE 
68 E NE 
E NE 
67 E NE 

65 
65 
7 1 
57 
5 2 



N 

NE 
SSW 

E 
E SE 

53 NNE 
55 E SE 
55 NNE 
54 E NE 
52 E SE 
58 NNE 

54 N 
54 N NE 

45 NNE 
48 NNE 

46 N NE 

45 NNE 

46 NNE 
48 NNE 
60 SW 
50 N 
48 N 
52 N 



Force 
of the 
Wind 



Barom. 



Rain. 



30. 20 

3°- 

29. 99 
29. 98 

29. 90 

3°- 
3°- 

30. 8 Rain 



30. 18 

3°- *5 
3°- 3° 
3°- 3 6 

3°- 3 6 
30. 20 
30. 10 
30. 10 
30. 10 

3°* 
30. 1 

30. 18 
3°- 3° 
3°- 3° 
3°- 38 

3°- 3 2 
o. 44 

3°- 45 
3°« 3 6 



do. 



do. 



Remarks 



Cloudy 



Cloudy 



do. 
do. 
do. 
do. 



Cloudy 



C 555 ) 



STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, BAROMETER, &c. 
During the Month of December 1799, at Galata, in Turkey. 



Dec. 



Thermometer, 
Morning. 



Thermometer, 
Noon. 



Thermometer, 
Evening. 



Sun. 



42 

55 

8 57 

8 66 

860 
861 

8 59 
852 

8 5 C 
.851 
8 58 
846 
842 
8 41 
856 

845 
844 
846 

8 53 
8 56 

8 59 
8 55 
8 54 
853 

854 
856 

8 55 



840 



61 

55 

57 
66 

60 
61 
59 
5 2 
5° 
5 1 
58 
46 
42 

4' 



Wind. 



force 
of the 
Wind 



N 

SW 

sw 

SW 

sw 
sw 
sw 

NE 
NE 
NE 
NE 
NE 
NE 

ssw 

56S sw 

45 SSW 
44 SSW 

46 S SW 
53 SSW 
56 S S W 
59 wsw 

55 NE . 
54NNE 

53 NE 

54 SE 

56 S SW 

55 SSW 
54 E NE 
54NNW 
5 1 WNW 
40 N 



2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 

2 5 



55 
6: 

62 

65 
63 
64 
66 



5 



5 

5° 

5° 

44 

2I42 

258 

2'a6 
1 1 

2j45 

2I49 

2 j5 6 
2 59 
2 60 

2156 

2 |55 
2 j54 
2 55 
56 
54 
57 

55 

4.9 

40 



68 
62 

65 
63 
64 
66 
58 
53 
56 
5° 
5° 
44 
42 




Sun 



55 SSW 



Force i 
of the 
Wind I 



SSW 

sw 
sw 
sw 
sw 

NE 
NE 
NE 
NE 
NE 
NE 
NE 
SSW 
58 SSW 

46 s sw 

4^!s SW 

49 ssw 

56 s sw 
' sw 
wsw 

NE 
N NE 
NE 
NE 
56'S SW 
54.NNK 

57 E NE 
55 5 NNW 
49 WNW 
40 N 



59 

60 

56 
55 
54 
55 



5 55 
5 54 
556 
561 

559 
5 57 
5 55 
5 56 
5 5 2 
5 54 
5 49 
5 46 

5 43 
5 42 

5 57 
5 47 
5 44 
5 5° 
5 55 
558 
561 

555 
5154 
554 
5 54 
5 6 7 
5 54 
5 57 
5 54 
5,47 
5'39 



Sun 



55 



56 
61 

59 
57 



Wind. 



SSW 
54 SSW 

1 sw 
sw 
sw 
sw 



55 S SW 

56 

5 2 

54 

49 
46 

43 



NE 
NE 
NE 
NE 
NE 
NE 
42 S SW 
57|S SW 
47IS SW 
44!S SW 
50 S SW 
55SSW 
58! E SE 
6 1 WSW 

55 NE 
54 N NE 

54 
54 

67 



NE 
NE 
S SW 
54NNE 
E NE 
54NNW 
47 WNW 
39 N 



Force 
of the 
Wind 



Barom 



30. IO 

2 9- 93 

30. 16 

3°- 

29. 74 
29. 52 
29. 77 
29. 94 
3°- 3 

j 3 0. 2C 
130. 20 

' 2 9- 95 
29. 91 

29- 95 
-29. 58 
29. 66 

29. 80 

30. 8 



Rain. 



Remarks 



Snow 

do. 



Cloudy 
do. 
do. 
do. 



C 55^ ) 



STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, BAROMETER, &c. 
During the Month of January 1800, at Galata, in Turkey. 



Thermometer, 
Morning 1 . 



Thermometer, 
Noon. 



Thermometer, 
Evening. 
















1 


8 


2 


8 




8 







4 


8 



■a 

K 

16 

2 i 
35 
44 
840 
84 
846 
840 
84 
84 
8 43 
840 
842 
846 
851 
8 52 

8 43 
842 
846 
849 
849 
849 
852 

8 53 
848 
846 
841 
8 41 
842 
84: 
8 4c 



Sun 



Wind. 



N 

N 

wsw 
wsw 

NNE 
NNW" 
E NE 
NNE 

N 
WNW 
NW 
NNE 
NNE 
S SE 
NNW 
VVNW 
N 
N 
N 
E NE 
Calm 
NNE 
E NE 
SW 
NNW 
Calm 
NNE 
NNE 
WSW 
Calm 
Calm 



Force 
of the 
Wind 



xi 
22 

3 o 

39 
46 

44 
45 
54 
4 1 

43 
44 
42 
42 
44 
5° 
5 2 
5° 
45 
4 2 



249 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 



56 
56 
57 
59 
59 
50 
48 
42 

4 2 

45 

44 

55 



Sun, 



Wind. 



Forre 
of the 
Wind 



N 
N 

WSW 

wsw 

NNE 
NNW 
E NE 
NNE 

N 
WNW 

NE 
NNE 
NNE 
SSE 
E NE 
WNW 
N 
N 
N 
E NE 
Calm 
E NE 
E NE 
SW 
NNW 
NNW 
E NE 
NNE 
WSW 
NNE 
E NE 



5 
5 

5 4o 
5 47 
5 43 
5 54 
553 
54i 
542 

5 45 
542 

5 47 
5 43 
5 5o -- 

55i 
5 48 

5 45 
5 43 
5 47 
5 54 
5 54 
5 54 
5 53 
5 57 
5 48 

5 45 
54i 
544 
5 45 
5 43 
5 5° 



Wind. 



N 
N 
WSW 
NNE 
NNE 
NNVv 
E NE 
NNE 

N 
WNW 

NE 
NNE 
NNE 
SSE 
E NE 
WNW 
N 
N 
N 
N 
Calm 
E NE 
E NE 
SW 
Calm 
E NE 
E NE 
NNE 
WSW 
NNE 
E NE 



Force 

:>f the 
Wind 



Barom 



30. 56 Snow 
30- 5° 



>• 7 
30. 10 

30, 19 

29. 98 

ro, ic 



10 
4 
7 



3°- 
3°- 
3°- 
3°- 

3o- 7 

2 9- 95 
29. 67 Rain 



29. 78 
29. 82 
29. 92 
29. 92 
29. 80 

29. 98 

30. 2 

29. 90 
29. 97 Rain 



Rain. 



Rain 
do. 
do. 



Remarks 



do. 
do. 



30. 

30. 10 
30. 16 

3°- 

3°- 5 
30. 18 



Rain 



( 557 ) 



STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, BAROMETER, &c. 
During the Month of February 1800, at Galata, in Turkey. 



Thermometer, 
Morning. 



Thermometer, 
Noon. 



Thermometer, 
Evening. 



840 
842 

8 45 
842 
840 
841 
8 35 
8 44 
8 44 
840 

835 
835 
837 

846' 

8 39 
8 39 
837 
839 
8 39 

8 ■ 
8 - 



8 37 
842 
8 50 
40 
28 

8 33 



8 



Sun., 



Wind. 



E NE 
Calm 
Calm 
NNE 
N NE 
WNW 
Calm 
Calm 
N 
N 
E NE 
NNE 
E NE 
E NE 
ENE 
E NE 
E NE 
Calm 
WSW 
E NE 

N 
Calm 
Calm 
Calm 
WSW 
ENE 

N 
WSW 



Force 
of the 
Wind 



5o 
53. 
44 

43 

47 

45 
46 

4.4 
43 
44 
48 

4i 

42 

55 

43 
46 

44 
42 

43 
42 

45 
47 
5 s 
49 
45 
39 
3 1 
35 



Sun. 



Wind. 



E NE 
Calm 
E NE 
NNE 
ESE 
WNW 
WNW 
WNW 
N 
N 
E NE 
NNE 
E NE 
WSW 
E NE 
E NE 
E NE 
WSW 
WSW 
ENE 
N 
S 
N 
WSW 
WSW 
N 
N 
N 



Force 
of the 
Wind 



c 



5 45 
551 
5 42 
542 

541 

5 42 

541 



47 
4J 
5 43 



37 
39 
54i 
55i 
5 39 
54i 
5 42 
540 

5J/ 
540 

54i 

5 43 
5 4i 
5 5 2 
5 43 
535 
53 1 
535 



Sun 



Wind. 



ENE 
Calm 
E NE 
NNE 
ESE 
WNW 
WNW 
WNW 
N 
N 
E NE 
NNE 
NE 
WSW 
E NE 
E NE 
E NE 
WSW 
WSW 
ENE 
N 
S 
N 
WSW 
WSW 
N 
N 
N 



jf the 
Wind 



Barom 



3 Rain 
Rain 



5^ 



.lam 
do. 
do. 
do. 

do. 



30. 10 
3°- 

30. 22 
30. 16 
30. 6 
o. 6 

jO. IC 

30. 10 
30. 1 
30. 10 
30. 26 
30. 16 

30. IC 

3°- 

3Q-3 1 
30. 14 

29.30 

29. 97 

30. 8 
30. 10 
30. 10 

|Q. I 6 

29. 971 

29. 60 Rain 
29. 74 
29. 44 S 
29. 90 

3°- 



Rain. 



do. 

now 
do. 
do. 



Remarks 



a e 



C 5J3 ) 



STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, BAROMETER, &c 
During the Month of March 1S00, at Galata, in Turkey. 



Thermometer, 
Morning. 



Thermometer, 
Noon. 



Thermometer, 
Evening. 



O r ^ 






3 








& 


I 


8 



8 



36 

840 
848 

8 39 
846 



44 
845 

48 
842 

41 

37 



44 
38 
3-+ 
36 

-|3 8 
8 43 

c 
o 

8 



42 

39 
8I37 
S [ 3 1 
8 
8 



sun. 



Wind. 



Calm I 

WSW; 

N 
Calm 
WSW 
WSW 
WSW 
Calm 
WSW 
Calm 
Calm 
E NE 
NNE 
NNW 
NNW 

S 

NNW 
E NE 

N 
NNW 
Calm - 
Calm 
E NE 
E NE 

N i 
NNW 
Crlm; 

N 

N 
Calm ' 
ENE 



Force 
of the 
Wind 



45 
45 

55 

47 

56 

5 2 
52 
57 
59 
46 
42 

44 
3° 

2|40 

2 40 

2|4« 

2:40 

2[42 

! 

± 4 
251 

2|44 

2 40 

2 !34 
2 39 



242 

247 
2U6\ 



Sun. 



Wind. 



Ltcl - 



2|45 



WSW 
E NE 
WSW 
WSW 
WSW 
WSW 
ENE 
WSW 
Calm 
ENE 
ENE 
ENE 
NNE 
NNW 
NNW 
S 

NNW 
ENE 

N 
NNW 
ENE 
ENE 

- jENE 

- E NE 

- ENE 

- I NE 

- E NE 

- IE NE 

- -N 

- 'JE NE ! 

- E NE ' 



Force 
of the 
Wind 



c 

5 46 

5 45 
5 49 
543 
55 6 
5 47 
5 49 
5 55 
5 52 
5 42 
540 
54i 
5 3° 
5 34 
5 38 
5 37 
5 3 6 
53 6 
5 38 
42 
49 



Sun 



5 40 
5 42 
538 

5 3° 
5 32 
538 
54o 
54° 
5 40 
5 4o 



Wind. 



Calm 
E NE 
WSW 
WSW 
WSW 

N 
ENE 
WSW 

Calm 

ENE 

ENE 

N NE 

NNE 

NNW 

WSW 

ENE 

ENE 

ENE 

ENE 

NNW 

ENE 

E NE 

ENE 

ENE 

ENE 

E NE 

ENE 

ENE 

N 
E NE 
ENE 



Force 
of the 
Wind 



Barcm. 



29. 90 
29. 87 

2 9- 53 

29- 93 
29. 64 

2 9- 73 

3°- 
29. 70 

29. 70 

29. 94 

3°- 

3°- 

29. 80 

29. 90 

29. 94 
o. 

30. 20 

3°- 5 

29. 80 

29. 80 
29. 80 
29. 94 

3°- 

29. 83 

30. 2' 
30. l6 

3°- 
3°- 

30. 10 
30. 10 

3& 5 



Rain 



Rain 
do. 
do. 

Fair 
do. 
do. 
do. 
do. 

Rain 



Fair 
do. 
do. 
do. 



Fair 
do. 

Fair 
Rain 



Fair 

Fair 
do. 
do. 



Snow 
Cloudy 



( 559 ) 



STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, BAROMETER, &c. 
During the Month of April, 1800, at Galata, in Turkey. 



Thermometer, 
Morning. 



Thermometer, 
Noon. 



Thermometer, 
Evening'. 



C ^4 










IS, g 


3 


aj 


Sun. 


Wind. 


Q M 


K 


— 






1 


8 


40 




— 




E NE 


2 


8 


42 




E NE 




8 


4 1 


-- 


Calm 


4 


8 


41 


— 


Calm 


5 


8 


4i 


-- 


Calm 


6 


8 


42 


— 


E NE 


7 


8 


44 


— 


E NE 


8 


8 


+ 1 


— 


E NE 


9 


8 


44 




E NE 


10 


8 


45 


— 


Calm 


1 1 


6 


48 


— 


Calm 


1 2 ' 


8 


58 


— 


Calm 


»3 


8 


54 


— 


Calm 


14 


8 


(8 


— 


E NE 


15 


8 


4-4 


— 


E NE 


16 


8 


47 


— 


E NE 




8 


5 2 


— 


Calm 


18 


8 


48 




Calm 


19 


8 


47 




E NE 


20 


8 


44 




Calm 


2 1 


8 


46 




Calm 


22 


8 


5 2 




Calm 


23 


8 


5 2 




Calm 


24 


8 


5° 




ENE 


25 


8 


49 




ENE 


26 


8 


5° 




Calm 


27 


8 


49 




Calm 


28 


8 


55 




Calm 


29 


8 


61 




E NE 


3° 


8 


53 




E NE 



Force 
of the 
Wind 

I 
I 



44 

45 

5° 

45 
1 



j 

45 

5° 
46 

5 2 
2I58 
2 i6o 
a'68 

265 
255 

255 

2 ;68 

266 

2 60 

267 

2.6 5 
2 03 

2 ! 54 
2' 5 8 

2 ,5« 
2:63 

2.72 

2,73 
272 

2:56 



bun. 



Win< 



ENE 
ENE 

N 
ENE 
E NE 
E NE 
E NE 
E NE 
ENE 
ENE 
Calm 

wsw 

ENE 

ENE 

E NE 

ENE 

WNW 

ENE 

ENE 

ENE 

ENE 

E NE 

ENE 

ENE 

ENE 

ENE 

E NE 

ENE 

ENE 

ENE 



Force 
of the 
Wind 



X 



41 
.2 

44 
43 
4i 
44 
5 44 
5 43 



5 



'Sun. 



55 2 
5 57 
5 57 
5 49 
5 47 
5° 
47 
5 2 



49 

5 5 2 

55 2 

5 58 

5 5' 2 

55 2 
558 

55 2 

5 5 2 
560 

6 
5 6 3 



Wind. 



E NE 
E NE 

N 
E NE 
E NE 
E NE 
ENE 
ENE 
ENE 
ENE 
Calm 
WSW 
ENE 
ENE 
E NE 
ENE 
ENE 
ENE 
ENE 
ENE 
ENE 
E NE 
ENE 
ENE 
ENE 
ENE 
ENE 
ENE 
ENE 
ENE 



Force 
of the 
Wind 



Barom 



29. 90 

3°- 

30. 14 
30. 14 
29. 94 

29. 90 

30. 12 
30. 20 
30. 20 
30. 10 

3°- 

129. 90 
ko. 10 

[30. 26 
:3c. 46 

!3°- 5 

3°- 5 
30. 20 

|3°- J 5 

130. 10 
! 3 o. 

'30. 10 
,30. 11 
130. 12 
30. 12 
I30. 4 
29. 94 
j 2 9. 94 
129. 94 
,29. 94 



Rain. 



Remarks 



Cloudy 

Fair 

do. 
Cloudy 

do. 

do. 

do. 

Fair 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 
do. 
do. 
do. 
do. 
do. 
do. 
do. 
do. 
do. 
do. 
do. 
do. 



( 5&> ) 



STATE OF THERMOMETER, \VINDS, RAIN, &c. 
During part of the Month of June, 1800, taken on board the New Adventure Tranfport. 



June 



Thermometer, 
Morning. 



Thermometer, 
Noon. 



Thermometer, 
Evening. 















5 





-c 


PS 




3; 


15. 


8 


72 


10 


8 


72 


l 7 


8 


7 2 


18 


8 


72 


19 


8 


75 


20 


8 


68 


21 


8 


69 


22 


8 


7 1 


2 3 


8 


07 


24 


8 


75 


2 5 


8 


82 


26 


8 


79 


27 


8 


78 


28 


8 


79 


29 


8 


83 


3° 


8 


78 



Sun. Wind. 



SE 
NE 
ENE 
E NE 
NE 
NW 
NE 
NW 
NW 
W 
SE 
NW 
Calm 
Calm 

S 
SE 



Force 
of the 
Wind 



84 
82 

7« 
78 

79 
69 

76 

75 
78 

83 
82 

81 

83 
84 
80 
80 



Wind. 



Calm 
NE 
E NE 
E NE 
NE 
NW 
NE 
NW 
NW 
W 

sww 
sw 

Calm 
Calm 

SW 

SS 



Force 
of the 
Wind 



o 

•Xj 

. rt 

CO 

74 
72 

75 

75 

75 
67 

69 

70 

70 

75 

70 

74 

78 

78 
78 

79 



aun, 



Wind. 



Calm 
NE 
E NE 
E NE 
NE 
NW 
NE 
NW 
NW 
W 
Calm 
SW 
Calm 
Calm 
SW 
SW 



Force 
of the 
Wind 



Rain. 



Remarks. 



( 5*» ) 



STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, RAIN, &c. 
During the Month of July 1800, at Jaffa, in Syria. 



July 


Thermometer, 




Thermometer, 




Thermometer, 




Morning. 






Noon. 








Evening. 




<->-< . 


| Hour. 


a! 






Force 






L 




Force 


| Hour. 


d 




w inu. 


Force 


« £ 


| Shad 


bun. 


winu. 


of the 
vv mo. 


| Houi 


1 Shad 


oU.Il. 


vv ma. 


of the 
w met 


T) 
rt 

| r-; 
CO 


OUI1. 


of the 
vv inu 


I 


8 


80 




vv 




2 


86 




SW 

VV 1 




6 


8l 




SW 

u VV 




2 


8 


80 




D VV 




2 


87 

88 




SW 

KJ VV 




6 


SO 




sw 




•7 
J 


8 


82 




u vv 




2 




SW 

k_7 VV 




6 


82 




sw 

u vv 




*r 


8 


80 




vv 




2 


87 




sw 

VV 




6 


82 




sw 

vv 




C 
J 


8 


80 




sw 

vv 




2 


84 




QW 
VV 




6 






sw 

vv 




6 


8 


80 




sw 

vv 




2 


84 




kj VV 




6 


82 




sw 

vv 




7 
/ 


8 


82 




sw 

vv 




2 


90 




SW 
vv 




6 


86 




sw 

vv 




8 


8 


86 




sw 

vv 




2 


94 




SW 
vv 




6 


86 




SW 
vv 






y 


8 


86 




sw 

vv 




2 


92 




SW 
vv 




6 


86 




SW 
vv 




I O 


.8 


86 




sw 

u vv 




2 


92 




sw 

u vv 




6 


86 




sw 

u vv 




1 1 


8 


8c 




sw 

v V 




2 


92 




sw 

vv 




6 


8a 




sw 

D VV 




I 2 


8 


85 




sw 

v V 




2 


94 




sw 

vv 




6 


8 c 




SW 

vv 




J J 


8 


85 




sw 

KJ V V 




2 


93 




sw 

u vv 




6 


8c 




sw 

u vv 




I A 


8 


85 




sw 

vv 




2 


94 




sw 

vv 




6 


8a 
04 




sw 

vv 




1 ? 

J) 


8 


84 




sw 

vv 




2 


94 




sw 

vv 




6 


8a 




sw 

vv 




l6 


8 


85 




sw 

u vv 




2 


94 




sw 

u vv 




6 


8c 




sw 

KJ V V 




1 7 


8 


84 




SE 




2 


94 


z 


SE 




6 


85 




sw 




18 


8 


85 




sw 




2 


93 




SW 




6 


84 




sw 




*9 


8 


86 




sw 




2 


92 




sw 




6 


82 




sw 




20 


8 


86 




s 






94 




s 




6 


86 




s 




21 


8 


84 




NWN 




2 


94 




NWN 




6 


86 




NWN 




22 


8 


85 




NW 




2 


92 




NW 




6 


82 




NW 




2 3 


8 


84 




NNW 




2 


9 1 




NWN 




6 


82 




NNW 




24 


8 


85 




SE 




2 


9 1 




SE 




6 


84 




SE 




25 


8 


84 




sw 




2 


9 1 




SW 




6 


84 




sw 




26 


8 


84 




sw 




2 


9 1 




sw 




6 


84 




sw 




27 


8 


84 




s 




2 


9 1 




s 




6 


84 




NW 




28 


8 


84 




s 




2 


9 1 




NW 




6 


85 




Calm 




29 


8 


84 




Calm 




2 


92 




NW 




6 


85 




Calm 




3° 


8 


84 




NW 




2 


92 




NW 




6 


85 




NW 




3 1 


8 


85 




s 




2 


9i 


- 


NW 




6 


85 




NW 


J 



Rain. 



Remarks. 



4 D 



C 5«* ) 



STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, RAIN, &c. 
During the Month of Auguft 1800, at Jaffa, in Syria. 



Aug. 




Thermometer, 




Thermometer, 




Thermometer, 








Morning. 






Noon. 






Evening. 




Li-. 


1 








Force 






Sun 




Force 










Force 






^ s 

« 


u 
3 




*B 


oun 


ATT" , J 


of the 


u 




TTT* 1 

W ind. 


of 


the 


O 


"O 
rt 


bun. 


W md. 


of the 


Rain. 


Remarks. 


s 




CO 






Wind 




|Jn 


co 






Wind; 


T 

t-H 


CO 






Wind 






J 


8 

w 


8< 




Q 




2 


5 3 




IN W 




6 


8 r 




TJW 
IN VV 








Jit 


8 




8s 




Q 
O 




2 


9* 




IN VV 




6 


8 r 




c 









3 


R 




8s 




C 
O 




2 


92 




IN VV 




6 


8 A 

04 




u WO 








4 


R 

C 1 


84 




q 




2 


93 




VV 




6 


8 /t 
04 




Palm 








5 


8 

O 


84 




c 





2 


92 




O VV 




6 


Rn 




L^aim 








w 


8 

u 






IN W 




2 


92 




xnxr 

IN w 




6 


8. r 




\_-aim 








7 


2 

O 


8q 




c 
O 




2 


92 




IN w 




6 


8 r 




xnxr 

IN W 








R 



R 
O 


8c 
j 




p n l m 
v_.aim 




2 


92 




IN VV 




6 


8 c 




NW 

J.N VV 








9 


Q 



8q 




film 




2 


92 




NW 
IN VV 




6 


8 r 




NW 

IN VV 








T O 

J. \J 


8 

O 


8. 




Pilm 

v^aim 




2 


92 




nw 

IN VV 




6 


8 c 




NW 

IN VV 








T T 

J. X 


8 
u 


81 
j 




Calm 




2 


90 




NW 

Jl\ VV 




6 


82 




NW 

i>l V V 








T O 


Q 
O 


86 


- 


Calm 




2 


93 


- 


NW 




6 


86 


- 


Calm 








1 
1 J 


8 

O 


86 




L.aim 




2 


92 




IN VV 




6 


8 p 




"WW 

IN VV 








14 


8 


88 




IN W 




2 


92 




"WW 
IN VV 




6 


86 
u 




NW 

IN VV 








T f 







88 




IN W 




2 


90 




IN VV 




6 


8/1 
04 




NW 

IN VV 








T 6 

i u 






8q 




IN W 




2 


9 1 




IN W 




6 


8 c 




NW 

IN VV 










Q 



8q 




Calm 




2 


90 




NW 




6 


8q 




NW 








1 






85 




S 




2 


90 




NW 




6 


84 




NW 








I Q 


8 


83 




Calm 




2 


90 




NW 




6 


84 




NW 








20 


8 


84 




Calm 




2 


90 




NW 




6 


84 




NW 








21 


8 


81 




S 




2 


90 




NW 




6 


82 




NW 








22 


8 


84 




S 




2 


93 




NW 




6 


85 




Calm 








2 3 


8 


82 




Calm 




2 


90 




WSW 




6 


82 




WSW 






Before sun-rise 68. 


24 


8 


84 




WSW 




2 


92 




WSW 




6 


84 




WSW 








2 5 


8 


84 




SW 




2 


90 




NW 




6 


84 




NW 






During night 63. 


26 
27 


8 
8 


85 
85 




SW 
NW 




2 
2 


93 
93 




NW 
NW 




6 
6 


85 
85 




NW 
Calm 






28 


8 


85 




SW 




2 


90 




SW 




6 


85 




NW 








29 


8 


85 




Calm 




2 


92 




NW 




6 


85 




NW 








3° 


8 


86 




S 




2 92 




SW 




6 


85 




SW 








3 1 


8 


86 




SW 




2'93 




SW 




6 


86 




SW 1 









C 5^3 ) 



STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, RAIN, &c. 
During the Month of September 1800, at Jaffa, in Syria. 



Thermometer, 
Morning. 



Thermometer, 
Noon. 



Thermometer, 
Evening:. 



-G 






oun. 




Force 










Force 










Force 






Day . 
Mont 





| Shad 


vv mu. 


of the 

Winrl 

VV UlLi 


| Houi 


| Shad 


oun. 


Winrl 

v v ma. 


of the 
vv mu 





| Shad. 


_ 

bllll. 


Winrl 

V v mu. 


of the 
vv mu 


ivam. 


xvcmarks 


I 


8 


86 




s 




2 


92 




s 




6 


86 




s 








2 


8 


82 








2 


9 C 




s 




6 


80 




« 

S3 








"i 

J 


8 


80 




N 




2 


90 




N 




6 


80 




N 








4 


8 


80 




N 




2 


90 




N 




6 


8; 




N 








5 


8 


80 




N 




2 


92 




W " 




6 


82 




W 








6 


8 


86 




NW 




2 


93 




NW 




6 


86 




NW ■ 








7 


8 


86 




1 1T1 

til 111 




2 


93 




NW 






86 




NW 








8 


8 


88 




Calm 




2 


93 




NW 

If V V 




6 


86 




NW 








9 


8 


88 




Calm 




2 


92 




W 




6 


86 




sw 






Fo2'Q'"v in the 


10 


. 8 


80 




Calm 




2 


93 




NW 




6 


85 

•J 




s 






morning. 


1 1 


' 8 


86 




Calm 




2 


94 




NW 




6 


84 




NW 






do. and. do* 


12 


8 


84 




NW 

_L>i V V 




2 


92 




NW 




6 


84 




NW 






Ho ^ n rl fin 


13 


8 


80 




s 




2 


93 




NW 




6 


84 




NW 








14 


8 


84 




Palm 

X^iClllll 




2 


90 




NW 




6 


80 




NW 








15 


8 


82 




w 

V V 




2 


88 




W 




6 


82 




W 






Cloudv & do 


16 


8 


80 


-- 


s 




2 


88 


- 


s 




6 


82 




s 








17 


8 


78 




w 




2 


87 




w 




6 


80 




W 








18 


8 


77 




w 




2 


87 




w 




6 


80 




w 








19 


8 


78 




Calm 




2 


86 




w 




6 


80 




NW 








20 


8 


77 




Calm 




2 


86 




w 




6 


80 




NW 








21 


8 


78 




Calm 




2 


86 




w 




6 


80 




NW 








22 


8 


76 




Calm 




2 


87 




w 




6 


80 




Calm 








«3 


8 


76 




Calm 




2 


85 




w 




6 


80 




Calm 








24 


8 


75 




Calm 




2 


85 




NW 




6 


80 




NW 








25 


8 


73 




Calm 




2 


85 




NW 




6 


78 




NW 








26 


8 


70 




Calm 




2 


85 




W 




6 


7 6 




NW 








27 


8 


73 




Calm 




2 


85 




NW 




6 


78 




NW 








28 


8 


73 




■Calm 




2 


85 




NW 




6 


79 




NW 








29 


8 


74 




Calm 




2 


85 




NW 




6 


80 




NW 








3° 


8 


76 




Calm 




2 


83 




NW 




6 


78 




NW 






Cloudy in the 
morning. 



N. B. Great dews fell during the nights in this month. 
The fog and cloudinefs of atmofphere difappeared after 1 o or n 



o'clock in the morning 



( 5*4 ) 



STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, RAIN, &c. 

During the Month of October 1800, at Jaffa, in Syria.. 



Thermometer, 
Mornine. 



Thermometer, 
Noon. 



Thermometer, 
Evening. 



"S ^ 




Sj 




Force 




OJ 






Force 


1 


tu 






Force 




R r>Tvt v\r 


5° £ 







Sun 


Winrl 

VV lllu. 


of the 


O 


CJ 


oiin 


VV lUUi 


of the 


U 

O 


t3 




Winrl 

VV 111U> 


of the 




O <5 


1-L1 


53 






Win,-! 
v V 1 UQ 




H 

a> 






Winrl 
VV 111Q 




r-j 
WJ 






VV I11U 






I 


8 


7- 




- 


Calm 




2 


82 




NW 




6 


// 




NW 








2 


8 


7 C 




C a 1 m 




2 


82 




NW 










NW 










8 


70 


~ 


Calm 




2 






NW 




6 


76 




NW 








4 


8 


70 


-- 


Calm 




2 


Hi 




NW 






7 n 

/y 




NW 








5 


8 


74 


-- 


'A 1 TV* 

\^» HI iii 




2 


81 




NW 






76 




NW 








6 


8 


72 


--" 


Calm 




2 


8l 




NW 




6 


7 C 




NW 








7 


8 


70 


- 


f*tl liTl 

victim 







8" 




NW 






7 C 




NW 








§ 


8 


70 


-- 


s 




2 


82 




NW 




6 


76 




NW 








y 


8 


73 


-- 


s 




2 


8" 




NW 






76 




NW 








1 ' 


« 

O 


75 


-- 






2 


86 




NW 




6 


78 

/ 




NW 








r i 

1 i 


Q 



75 


~ 








8a 




NW 






7 7 
// 




NW 








1 £ 


Q 



7c 




Palm 






8 1 




N 




u 


80 




N 






Cloudv. wltli 

" — uva y « vv 11,11 


1 j 


8 



7o 




NW 

X i V V 




2 


84 
04 




NW 






/4 




NW 






frefli breezes 


*4 







70 




Chilli 






04 




NW 

LN V V 




U 


7 /i 
74 




NW 

.LX V V 






at noon. 


t r 

1 5 


8 


65 


-- 


v^a.i«.i.l 




2 


8 - 




WNW 




6 


77 




Calm 








1 u 






00 




Hi 




2 


z 




ws w 






7 7 

77 




Calm 








1 7 


8 


72 




Calm 




2 


80 


— 


WNW 




6 


76 




NW 








18 


8 


68 




E NE 




2 


80 




WNW 




6 


73 




Calm 








'9 


8 


72 




NW 




2 


81 




NNW 




6 


72 




NW 








20 


8 


65 




N 




2 


80 




NNW 




6 


77 




NNW 








21 


8 


67 




Calm 




2 


80 




NNW 




6 


75 




WNW 








22 


8 


69 




E NE 




2 


78 




NNW 




6 


7 1 




WNW 




Rain 


Cloudy 


2 3 


8 


66 




S 




2 


77 




NW 




6 


7 1 




NW 




do. 





24 


8 


62 




NE 




2 


80 




NW 




6 


75 




NW 








2 5 


8 


64 




Calm 




2 


»5 




NW 




6 


80 




NNW 






Oppreffive 


26 . 


8 


64 




Calm 




2 


84 




NW 




6 


75 




NW 






heat. Blew 


27 


8 


69 




Calm 




2 


82 




NW 




6 


75 




NW 






ilrong. 


28 


8 


66 




Calm 




2 


80 




NW 




6 


7' 




NW 








29 


8 


68 




S 




2 


79 




NW 




6 


75 




NW 








3° 


8 


6 c 




Calm 




2 


81 




NW 




6 


74 




NW 








3 1 


8 


62 




Calm ) 




2 


82 




NW 




6 


70I -- 


NW 




. . . . 


Cloudy 



At 6 o'Clock A. M. Therm, flood at 62 the 7th Inft. 

— — — — — 62 the 8th Inft. 

— — — — — 65 the 9th Inft. 



( S 6 5 ) 



STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, RAIN, &c. 
During the Month of November 1800, at Jaffa, in Syria. 



Nov. 


Thermometer, 


Thermometer, 


Thermometer, 




Morning-. 


Noon. 


Evening. 





^0 * 










r orce 










Force 










v orce 


| 


Remarks. 


S, a 






Sun. 


Wind. 


r\f flip 

Ul LilC 




cs 


Sun. 


Wind. 


OI LilC 







Sun. 


Wind. 


'>f the 


Rain. 






CO' 






Wind 


*T\ 


co 







Wind 


CO 







Wind 






1 


8 


62 









Calm 




2 


84 




NW 




6 


74 


„ 




NW 






Cloudy 


2 


8 


62 





Calm 




2 


83 





NW 




6 


72 




NW 






Showers and 


3 


8 


62 





Calm 




2 


81 





NW 




6 


7° 




NW 




Rain 


thunder dur~ 


4 


8 


62 


„ 


Calm 




2 


81 


— 


NW 




6 


7i 




NW 






ing night 


5 


8 


59 





Calm 




2 


8j 





NW 




6 


7 1 




NW 






6 


8 


5° 





E SE 




2 


8l 


.- 


NW 




6 


70 





NW 








7 


8 


60 




SE 




2 


80 




NW 




6 


7° 


„ 


NW 






Cloudy 


8 


8 


66 




NW 




2 


78 





NW 




6 


68 





NW 




Rain 


during: night 


9 


8 


66 




W 




2 


77 




NW 




6 


68 




NW 






Cloudy 


10 


8 


65 


... 


SE 




2 


78 


— 


NW 




6 


66 




NW 






1 1 


8 


58 




SW 




2 


77 


— 


W 




6 


68 




NW 








12 


'8 


58 




Calm 




2 


77 





NW 




6 


7 1 




NW 






Cloudy 




8 


58 




Calm 




2 


77 





NW 




6 


69 





NW 






*4 


8 


54 





Calm 




2 


78 


— 


NW 




6 


7° 


__ 


NW 








*5 


8 


61 




Calm 




2 


78 


-- 


NW 




6 


70 


„ 


NW 








16 


8 


62 





SE 




2 


78 


-. 


wsw 




6 


70 





NW 








*l 


8 


58 


— 


SE 




2 


76 


— 


SW 




6 


7 C 


'-- 


SW 




Rain 


with thunder 


18 f 


8 


60 




SE 




2 


75 




SE 




6 


68 




NW 




do. 


do. 


19 


8 


58 




Calm 




2 


74 




W 




6 


65 




W 






Fine 


20 


8 


56 




W 






76 




W 




6 


58 




w 








21 


8 


60 




SE 




2 


75 




S 




6 


60 




S 






blows ftrong 


22 


S 


64 




SE 




2 


76 




SW 




6 


70 




S 






blows gales, & 


2 3 


8 


62 




SW 




2 


66 




s 




6 


60 




s 




Rain 


in the night 
heavy rains 


24 


8 


60 




SE 




2 


67 




NE 




6 


60 




SE 




do. 


25 


8 


60 




SE 




2 


68 




SE 




6 


60 




NE 






Cloudy- 


26 


8 


56 




NW 




2 


68 




NE 




6 


60 




SE 






27 


8 


60 




E 




2 


70 




E 




6 


65 




NE 








28 


8 


62 




E 




2 


78 




E 




6 


68 




NE 






blows hard 


29 


8 


62 




N 




2 


76 




E 




6 


68 




E 








3° 


8 


58 




E 




2 


69 




SW 




6 


65 




NW 






Cloudy & rain 



4 E 



C 5™ ) 



STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, RAIN, Sec. 
During the Month of December 1800, at Jaffa, in Syria. 



Dec. 



Thermometer, 
Morning;. 



Thermometer, 
Noon. 



Thermometer, 
Evening. 



A 


>-* 


_5J 






Force 











1 Force 


£ 








Force 


Rain. 






V. *-» 


c 


n 


Sun . 


Wind. 


or the 




-0 


Sun. 


Wind. 


* c ..1- 

,0* the 





T3 

a! 


Sun. 


Wind. 


or the 


Remarks. 






$ 






Wind 


1 


J5 
co 






Wind 




CO 


' 




Wind 








I 


8 


J 




SE 




2 


70 




SE 




6 


6 c 




SE 










2 


8 


C r 

J J) 




Calm 






/ o 




N 




6 


6c 

j 




NE 










1 

J 


8 


4.0 




Calm 




2 


70 




W 




6 


6c 




NW 










A 
*+ 


8 


6c 




SE 




2 


60 




NW 




6 


6^ 




NW 










c 

J 


8 






Calm 






70 




NW 




6 


66 




NW 










6 


8 


6l 




Calm 






7 T 
/ J 




NW 




6 


6c 




W 










7 

/ 


8 


cl 




E 




2 


70 




NNW 




6 


68 




Calm 






Cloudy 




8 


8 


C C 
J J 




Calm 






11 




NW 




6 


6c 




Calm 










y 


8 


CO 




Calm 




2, 


11 
72 




Calm 




6 


68 




Calm 






Cloudy 




1 w 


8 


r r 

55 




Calm 




rt 

z 


7 ? 

/3 




NW 




6 


6c 




NW 










1 f 


8 


61 




Calm 




4* 


7 7 




NW 




6 


67. 
j 




NW 










I 2 


8 






Calm 




2 


IX 
1 o 




NW 




6 


j 




NW 










l 3 


8 


53 


- 


Calm 




2 


71 


-- 


NW 




6 


65 




E SE 










I A 


8 


6c 




Calm 






7 C 

/ J 




W 




6 


68 




W 










t r 

1 5 


8 


6; 
u 5 




Calm 






7 2 




NW 




6 


6c 




NW 










J u 


8 


6c 




Calm 




2* 


1 -7 




SW 




6 


6c 




SE 










»7 





5° 
58 




F SF 




2 


68 




SW 




6 


60 




SW 






hazy, thunder 


18 


8 




E SE 




2 


62 




S 




6 


6c 


— 


SW 




Rain 


Stormy, thun- 


'9 


8 


59 




W 




2 


62 




W 




6 


60 




W 






der&lightning 


20 


8 


54 




E SE 




2 


65 




NW 




6 


61 




NW 






Stormy 




2 1 


8 


55 




SW 




2 


65 




SW 




6 


61 




SW 










22 


8 


56 




S SE 




2 


6 4 




SW 




6 


62 




w 




Rain 


Heavy rains, & 


23 


8 


62 




NW 




2 


63 




NW 




6 


61 




NW 




do. 


gales of wind 


24 


8 


58 




W 




2 


60 




NW 




6 


57 




NW 




do. 


do. do. 


2 5 


8 


54 




E 




2 


62 




Calm 




6 


54 




Calm 










26 
27 


8 
8 


49 
54 




NW 

SW 




2 
2 


60 
60 




NW 
NW 




6 
6 


55 
5* 




NE 
NW 










28 


8 


49 




Calm 




2 , 


66 




NW 




6 


56 




E 










29 


8 


49 




SE 




2; 


68 




S 




6 


60 




SW 










30 
3 1 


8 


50 




S 




2!6c 




S 




6 


6c 




S 




Rain 


Thunder, &c. 


8 


60 




NW 




2' 


65 




NW 




6 


61 




NE 






Fine 





{ 5*7 ) 



STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, RAIN, &c. 
During the Month of January 1801, at Jaffa, in Syria. 



Thermometer, 
Morning. 



Thermometer, 
Noon. 



Thermometer, 
Evening. 



"S 




aj 


Sun. 




Force 










Force 


£ 


a} 




Wind. 


Force 


Rain. 


Remarks 


&■ s 

c< O 





"J 


Wind. 


of the 


u 




Sun. 


Wind. ' 


of the 


S3 






Sun. 


if the 


PS 




— 


co 







Wind 




hH 


co 
— 







Wind 




CO 









Wind 






I 


8 


49 


— 




SE 




2 


68 


-- 


— — — . 

w 




6 


60 


— 


Calm 








2 


8 


46 


— 


E 




2 


68 


— 


NW 




6 


60 


— 


NE 








3 


8 


46 


— 


SE 




2 


68 




SW 




6 


62 


— 


Calm 




Rain 


Cloudy 


4 


8 


53 


-- 


S 




2 


58 




SW 




6 


58 


— 


SW 




do. 


Stormy & rain 


5 


8 


56 


-- 


SW 




2 


58 




SW 




6 


55 


— 


E 




do. 


do. 


6 


8 


5 2 


-- 


SW 




2 


56 




s 




6 


55 


— 


SW 




do. 


Showery 


7 


8 


53 


— 


S 




2 


57 


— 


s 




6 


55 




E 




do. 


moderate 


8 


8 


5° 


— 


S 




2 


60 




NW 




6 


57 


— 


NE 




• . • • 


Fine 


9 


8 


47 


— 


E 




2 


62 




w 




6 


60 


— 


Calm 








10 


8 


49 


-- 


SE 




2 


62 


— 


NW 




6 


60 


— 


NW 




. 1 . . 


do. 


1 1 


8 


5 2 


— 


Calm 




2 


62 


— 


E 




6 


60 


— 


Calm 








12 


8 


5° 


-- 


E 




2 


65 


— 


NW 




6 


60 


— 


NW 






do. 


*3 


8 


5o 


— 


E 




a 


64 


— 


NW 




6 


60 


— 


NW 




• • • • 


do. 


14 


8 


52 


— 


SE 




2 


63 




SW 




6 


59 


— 


NW 




Rain 


Cloudy 


*5 


8 


54 


-- 


SE 




2 


62 




SW 




6 


59 


... 


W 




• • • t 


Stormy 


16 


8 


55 


— 


S 




2 


62 




NW 




6 


60 




w 




• • « * 


Cloudy 


*7 


8 


54 


-- 


SE 




2 


64 


— 


NW 




6 


62 


— 


Calm 






18 


8 


55 


-- 


SW 




2 


60 


- 


s 




6 


55 


-- 


W 




Rain 


Thund.& light. 


J 9 


8 


55 




SW 




2 


57 




SW 




6 


55 




SW 




do. 


Stormy 


20 


8 


55 




SW 




2 


61 




SW 




6 


55 




w 






do. 


21 


8 


52 




E 




2 


61 




NW 




6 


56 




NW 




Rain 




22 


8 


52 




SW 




2 


58 




SW 




6 


57 




SW 




do. 


do. 


2 3 


8 


54 




E 




2 


63 




NW 




6 


60 




NW 






Cloudy 


24 


8 


55 




E 




2 


64 




NW 




.6 


63 




NW 






Fine 


2 5 


8 


55 




E 




2 


63 




NW 




6 


62 




NW 








26 


8 


54 




E 




-2 


65 




NW 




6 


61 




NW 








27 


8 


57 




S 




2 


67 




NW 




6 


65 




W 




Rain 


Stormy dur. n. 


28 


8 


60 




, W 




2 


61 




SW 




6 


56 




SW 




do. 


Stormy ,thund. 


29 


8 


56 




w 




2 


61 




NW 




6 


55 




NW 




do. 


lightn. & hail 


3° 


8 


51 




SW 




2 


56 




SW 




6 


55 




SW 




do. 


Showery 


3 1 


8 


54 




SW 




2 


61 




SW 




6 


59 




SW 




do. 


Stormy& light. 



( 5*» ) 



STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, RAIN, &c. 
During the Month of February 1801, at Jaffa, in Syria. 



Thermometer, 
Mornin"-. 



Thermometer, 
Noon. 



Thermometer, 
Evening. 



r-C 


£ 


I . 


1 


1 

Wind., 


Force 




0) 






Force 


I 








Force 


Rain. 




S. s 





X) 


Sun 


of the 


u 
z> 




c3 


Sun. 


Wind. 


of the 


!-' 


"2 


S an . 


Wind. 


or me 


Remarks. 


eg 


1 — 1 


co 






Wind 


HI 









Wind 


O 









Wind 






I 


8 


56 




SW 




2 


6l 





SW 




6 






SW 








2 


8 


55 


— m 


s 




2 


6l 


mm 


SW ; 




6 


59 




SW 








s 


8 


55 




Calm 




2 


60 




NW ; 




6 


57 




N 




Rain 


Cloudy, with 


4 


8 


51 




Calm, 




2 


6l 




NW 




6 






N 






rain dur. n. 




8 


48 




NW ' 




2 


6 5 




nw 




6 






N 






Fine 


6 


S 


5S 




NW 




2 


61 




NW 




6 


$9 

■j y 




N 






Cloudy 


7 

8 


-8 


cc 


_ _ 


SW 




2 


6 3 




SW 




6 


61 




N 






do. with rain 


8 


55 




SW 




2 


6 3 




SW ; 




6 


59 


mm 


SW 






Cloudy 


Q 

y 


8 


J J 


„ 


SE ' 




2 


64 


-•* 


w 




6 


61 




N 






Fine 


10 


8 


5 6 




SE 




2 


70 




Calm 




6 


65 


mm 


N 






Cloudy 


1 1 


8 


55 




E 




2 


68 




W 




6 


62 


„ 


N 






Fine 


12 


8 






Calm 




2^ 


6 5 


— — 


w 




6 


60 




N 






do. 


1 ^ 


8 






E 




2' 


6 5 




NW 




6 


62 




N 






do. 


14 


8 


c c 

J J 




E 




2 


66 




Calm 




6 


62 




NE 




.... 


Hazy 


*5 


8 


36 




S 




2 


65 




SW 




6 


62 




NE 






Cloudy 


16 


8 


58 


- 


NE 




2 


62 




N 




6 


61 


-- 


NE 




. . . . 


Gale, cloudy 


17 


8 


58 




NE 




2 


74 




NE 




6 


64 




NE 






Fine 


18 


8 


56 




S 




2 


7c 




NW 




6 


64 




N 






do. 


l 9 


8 


57 




S 




2 


67 




NW 




6 


64 




NW 






do. 


20 


'8 


60 




Calm 




2 


68 




NW 




6 


66 




Calm 






Sultry In morn. 


21 


8 


64 




SE 




2 


7i 




NE 




6 


69 




NE 




• ••#,» 


Cloudy 


22 


8 


62 




SW 




2 


64 




SW 


4 


6 


62 




W ; 


4 




Gale, with rain 


2 3 


8 


54 




SW 


4 


2 


62 




SW 


4 


6 


60 




WNW 


3 


Rain 


during night. 


24 


8 


59 




S 


2 


2 


65 




NW 


2 


6 


62 




N 


2 




Cloudy 


2 5 


8 


55 




SE 


1 


2 


65 




NW 


1 


6 


55 




N 






Fine 


26 


8 


6c 




SE 


1 


2 


74 




NW 


1 


6 


62 




NE 


1 




do. 


27 


8 


60 




S 


1 


2 


70 




NW 


1 


6 


62 




NE 


1 






28 


8 


58 




NW 


2 


2 


68 




SW 


3 


6 


62 




W 


1 


• • • » 


Cloudy in the 
morning 



( 5*9 ) 



STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, RAIN, &rc. 
During the Month of March 1801, in Syria, and in the Defer t. 



Thermometer, 
Morning. 



Thermometer, 
Noon. 



Thermometer, 
Evening;. 



5^ 
55 
5 2 



3 55 



57 
856 

856 



56 
856 

5 c 

85: 

59 
54 
53 

57 
6c 
64 
61 

59 
62 

59 
6c 

60 

6 J 
6c 

62 
6 5 



Sun 



Wind. 



II 



SE 

sw 
sw 



s 

sw 
sw 

s 

sw 

SE 



SE 
SE 
NE 
SE 
NE 
S 

'SW 

s 

Calm 

SE 
SW 

E 

E 
Calm 
SW 

E. 

C V 

Q JO 

SE 



i'orce 
of the 
Wind 



68 

62 

5S 

57 

5° 
64 

68 

68 

63 

if 7 
262 
2162 
264 
26c 
2:6 5 

2 j 6 5 
265 

2 70 

72 

72 

72 

77 
62 
2 '6 4 
266 
269 

2 75 

2 75 
2176 



Sun. 



Wind, 



SW 
SW 

w 

sw 

sw 

sw 

sw 

sw 

sw 

w 

sw 

sw 

sw 

NW 

NW 

NE 

NW 

NW 

NW 

NW 

W 

w 
w 
sw 

NW 

w 
sw 
w 
sw 

NW 
NW 



Force 
of the 
Wind 



"2 Sun 



58 
658 

56 
656 

660 
662 
663 
656 



57 



665 

6 

'6 



59 

59 
02 



61 



6 6,- 
664 

64 
6i6 4 
6I64 
6:59 

6,0 2 

6.63 
6i6 5 
6|68 

6| 7 o 
665 



Wind. 



sw 

sw 

sw 

w 

w 

Calm 
Calm 
SW 

w 

w 

sw 

sw 

sw 

NW 
NE 
NE 
NE 

N 
NE 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 

SE 
NW 

N 

SW 
NW 
NW 
NW 

NW 



Force 
of the 
Wind 



Rain. 



Rain 
do. 
do. 
do. 



Rain 

Ruin 
do. 
do. 
do. 
do. 



1 do. 
I do. 



Remarks. 



Tempeft. (near Yebna) 
Cloudy & rain 
Heavy do. with hail 

do. and do. 
Fine (hail & rain A.M.) 

do. (cloudy A. M.) 
Clear 

do. 



loudy 



Heav.rain(nearEzdod) 
Cloudy (rain A. M.) 

do. (rain at noon) 
Rain P. M. (at Gaza) 
Clear 

do. 

do. 

do. (fog A. M.) 
Great fog P. M. 
Cloudy (tog: A. M.) 

do. 

do. 

Thund. & liehtn. with 
hail thro' the day 

Cloudy 
do. 

Clear (at Kanyouns) 
do. [in the Defert.) 
do(fog A.M.atE'i- Arith 
do. (cloudy A. M.) 



4 F 



( 57° ) 



STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, RAIN, &c. 
During the Month of April 1801, in the Defert and in Egypt. 



Thermometer, 
Morning. 



Thermometer, 
Noon. 



Thermometer, 
Evening. 



86 s 
8 66 
8 6c 

8 55 
8 55 

8 57 

862 

860 
8 72 
865 
8 65 
870 
8 70 
867 
8 68 
865 
8 6 9 
868 
867 
869 
868 
8 66 
874 
874 
870 
8 72 
876 
878 
868 



8 



69 



Sun. 



Wind. 



SW 
W 

SW 
SW 
SW 

w 

NW 
E NE 
SW 

w 

NW 
NW 
NE 

N 

E 

N 

N 
WSW 
SW 

w 

SW 
SW 

E 

E 

E 

E 
E SE 
NE 
W 
NW 



Force 
of the 
Wind 

I 

2 

3 
4 

3 
2 

1 

1 

4 
2 
1 
1 
2 
1 
1 
1 
1 
2 
2 
2 
1 
2 
1 
2 
2 
2 

3 
2 

2 

2 



80 

78 
60 
60 
60 
71 

75 
72 

90 

75 
74 
75 
74 
76 
78 

79 

80 

78 
82 

79 
88 

92 

98 

90 

92 

95 
96 

95 

*6 



Sun. Wind. 



w 

NW 
SW 
SW 

w 
w 

N 
NE 
SW 
NW 
NW 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 
NW 
W 

N 
W 

w 

NE 
NE 
NW 
NE 
E SE 
N 
W 
NW 



Force 
of the 
Wind 

2 
2 

4 
4 

3 
2 
1 
1 

2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
1 
2 

3 
2 

2 

2 

2 

2 
2 
2 
2 

3 
3 
2 

2 



Sun 



6 70 
6 68 
661 

657 

660 

662 
664 
669 
682 
668 
6 70 
669 
670 
6 70 
6 70 
669 
6 70 
6 69 
6 70 
669 
668 
6 70 
679 
6 70 
6 71 
678 
6 3o 
6 7 1 
682 
67c 



Wind. 



N 

NW 
W 
SW 

w 

NW 

N 

N 
Calm 
NW 

N 
NW 
NE 
NWN 

N 

N 
NW 
NW 
W 

N 
W 
NW 
NE 
NE 
NE 

E 
NE 

N 
NW 
NW 



r orce 
of the 
Wind 



3 
2 

2 

4 
2 
2 
1 
1 

2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
1 
1 
2 
2 
1 
1 
1 
1 
2 
1 
1 

3 
1 

3 
2 

2 



Rain. 



Remarks. 



Cloudy P.M.at El- Arifli 
Rain Thunder, &c. 

Cloud.(rain&hailA.M) 
do. 
do. 

do. (clear A. M.) 
Clear 

do. [fin wind) 

Oppreff. wea. (a Kamp- 
Clear 

Cloudy (clear A. M.J 
Clear 
do. 
do. 
do. 
do. 
do. 
Cloudy 

Clear (at Meffoudieh) 
do. 

do (atBirbilhabbs,&c) 
do. (at Catieh) 
do. 
do. 
do. 
do. 

Cloudy (at Salahieh in 
Clear [Egypt.) 
do. 
do, 



( 57* ) 



STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, RAIN, &c. 
During the Month of May 1801, in Egypt. 



Thermometer, 
Morning. 



Thermometer, 
Noon. 



Thermometer, 
Evening. 



8 



D 9 

8 75 

870 

880 



8 



8 75 
876 

880 

75 

80 

76 



00 
80 

79 

75 

86 



878 
876 
882 
880 
So 
876 

8 7i 
879 

877 
877 
78 



Sun 



Wind. 



w 

E 
NE 
W 

w 
w 

Calm 
E 
E 
E 
E 
E 

NW 
N 

sw 

NW 

E 

E 

E 
ESE 

E 
SW 
SW 
WNW 
NW 

w 

' NW 
N 
NE 







Force 




of the 


c 


Wind 






2 


J 


2 


2 


2 


-2 



2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 




2 


I 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


3 


2 


1 


2 


2 


2 


1 


2 


2 


2 




2 


2 




1 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


1 


2 


1 




2 


2 


2 


2 



86 
98 
98 
98 
92 
88 
88 
88 
88 

97 
98 

lo 3 

io 3 
1 1 2 

97 
92 

90 

90 

88 

92 

92 

95 
1 12 

IOC 

9 

76 
92 
92 

97 

97 
08 



sun 



Wind. 



NW 

E 
NE 

W 
NW 

wsw 
wsw 

w 

w 

E 

E SE 

E 

E 

N 
NW 
NW 
SW 
NW 
NW 

E 

E 
S SE 

S 
SW 
NW 
WNW 
NW 
W 

N 
NE 
ME 



a orce 
,f the 
Wind 



2 
2 

2 

4 

3 

2 

2 
2 
2 
2 

3 



674 
680 
6 90 
685 

6 75 
675 
67. 
678 

678 
67H 
678 
68 s 
6 86 
6 90 
6 86 
6 86 
685 
683 
680 
682 
6 90 
682 
698 
689 
684 
684 
685 
685 
685 
685 
6,9 » 



Wind. 



NE N 

NE 
NE 
NW 
N 
W 
W 
W 

w 

ESE 
E SE 

E 

E 

N 
NW 
NW 

E 
NW 

N 

E 

E 
ESE 
SW 

w 

NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 

N 
NE 

N 



,'orce 
»f the 
rVind 



Remarks 



Clear 
do. 

Cloudy & hazy 
Clear 

Cloudy h hazy 
Clear 
Cloudy 
do. 

do (clear A.M) 
Clear 
do. 
Hazy 
do. & cloudy- 
do. a Kampim 
Clear[atBelbek 
do. 

n Hazy (P.M. Iit- 
Clear [tie rain) 
Hazy & cloudy 
do. 
do. 
do. 

do.(atB3nE'-Ha7.ar 
Cloudy [aKaayfiu 

Clear 
Cloudy 
Clear 
do. 
do. 
' do.> 
do. 



( 57* ) 



STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, RAIN, &c. 
During the Month of June 1801, in Egypt. 



Thermometer, 
Morning. 



Thermometer, 



jNoon. 



Thermometer, 
Evening- 




























Sun 




f ovcc* 








Wind. 


Fo 


Days 
Mont 



E 


■c 

CO 


Wind. 


of the 
Wind 


— 


1 Shad. 


San 


of 

Wi 

— 


I 


880 




-- 


— 

Calm 





2 


104 




NE 


I 


2 


8 


76 


— 


NE 


2 


2 


95 




NE 


n 


3 


8|8o 


— 


NE 


I 


2 


1 CO 




NE 


1 


4 


8|8 4 


— 


Calm 




2 


103 - 


Nil, 


n 


5 


8184 


— 


NW 


I 




103! - 


NW 


2 


6 


884 


-- 


NW 


2 


2 


108 


__ 


NW 


2 


7 


884 


— 


NW 


2 


2 


IOO 


— 


NW 


3 


8 


884 


-- 


NW 


1 


2 


96 




NW 


2 


9 


8!8o 


— 


NW 


2 


2 


93 




NW 


2 


10 


880 


— 


Calm 




2 


93 




N W 


2 


1 1 


8 


83 




NE 


I 


2 


96 




N 


2 


1 2 


8182 


- 


Calm 




2 


95 




NE 


2 


*3 


883 


— 


NE 


I 


2 


97 




NE 


O 


M 


880 


'— 


NE 


I 


2 


9 1 




NE 


I 


15 


. 8 


82 




NE 


I 


2 


102 




NW 


2 


j6 







82 


— 


E 


2 


2 


■°5 




NW 


2 


J 7 


8 


82 




NW 


2 


2 


1 00 




NE 


3 


iS 


8 


77 




NE 


2 


2 


95 




NE 


2 


'9 


Q 

O 


77 




NE 


3 


2 


94 




NE 


3 


23 


8 


/ 




NE 


2 




97 




NE 


2 


2 I 


Q 



84 




NE 


2 


2 


io 5 




NE 


2 


22 


8 


3-, 




NW 


1 


2 


1 00 




NW 


2 


"3 


8 


80 




W 


1 


2 


1 00 




W 


1 


24 


8 


78 




W 


1 


2 


IC2 




NW 


2 


25 


s 


°j 




NW 


2 


2 


I OO 




NW 


2 


26 


8 


84 




NW 


2 


2 


I OO 




NW 


2 


27 


8 


84 




M 


2 


2 


. 02 




N 


2 


28 


8 


83 




NE 


2 


2 


107 




NE 


2 


29 


8 


') _ 

v 




NW 


1 


2 


1 07 




NW 


2 


3° 







NW 


2 


2 


103 




NW 


2 



692 

687 

692 
6 86 
688 
6 86 
685 
68. 
680 
80 
680 
80 
8 c 



6 95 
697 
35 
68j 
682 
68 



680 
6^ 
680 
687 
6 94 
696 

6 94 
698 



)Un! 



Wind. 



NE 

NE 

NW 

NW 

NW 

NW 

NW 

NW 

NW 

NW 

NW 

NE 

NE 

NE 

N 

W 
NE 
NE 
NE 
NE 
NE 
NW 

W 
NW 
NE 
NW 
NE • 

N 
NW 
NW 



Force 
of the 
Wind 

I 

2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
I 
2 

3 

3 

3 

3 
2 

1 

3 
4 

4 

2 

3, 
2 
2 

2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 



Rain. 



Remarks. 



Hazy (at Dagoua) 

Clear 

Hazy- 
do. 
do. 

do.(at Shoubrah 
do. [Shaabi.) 
do. 

do.(atShellacan) 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

•do. (at Beifous.) 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do, 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 



( 573 ) 



STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, RAIN, &c. 
During the Month of July 1801, in Egypt. 



Thermometer, 
Morning. 



Thermometer, 
Noon. 



Thermometer, 
Evening. 



883 

882 

88: 

8 
o 



82 
84 
884 



82 

84 
885 

84 

84 
89 

887 

8 86 

S3 
885 

885 

887 

37 
88 

87 
87 



8.5 
887 



Wind. 



NW 

NW 
NW i 
NE I 

wnw; 

NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 1 
NW 1 
NW j 
Calm I 
NW ! 
NW i 
NW I 

nw ; 

N 

NW I 

NW ! 

NW j 

NW 

NW 

NW 

NW 

NW 

NW 



1' orce 
of the 
Wind 

2 
2 



C/3 



98 
IOI 
IO4 
I06 
I06 

I 

2 I 04 
2|i04 

<°5 
106 

Ic 5 

r °5 

98 

96 

95 
96 

95 

95 

99 
98 

I0 3j 
ioij 

96 

96 

96 

96 

95 

95 

99 
98! 

, 93; 

2 q8' 



Sun 



Wind. 



Force 
of the 
Wind 



w 

NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NE 

NW j| 3 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NE 
NW 
NW 
NW 
< NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 



! 3 

■1 

I J 

! - 2 
i 2 
2 
2 

2 
1 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 

I 2 

2 

j 2 

I 2 
2 

2 



Sun 



94 
92 
92 
IOI 

9 8 
92 
92 
101 
92 

94 
94 
94 
92 
90 

94 
90 




6 
6 
6 
6 
6 
6 
6 
6 
6 
6 
6 
6 
6 
6 

6| 93 
6 
6 
6 

6 
6 
6 



95 
92 

94 
90 

89 
90 

00 

6 90 

6| 90 

6 90 

6j 89 

6! 90! 

61 95I 



Wind. 



NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NE 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NE 
NE 
NW 
- N NE 
NNW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 



Force 
of the 
Wind 



3 

3 

3 

3 
2 

3 
3 
3 
3 

I 3 

I 3 

1 

2 

4 

•5 

2 
2 

3 
2 



Rain, Remark^. 



Hazy & cloudy 
do. 
do. 
do. 
do. 

Great fo£ and 
heavy dews 
do. 
do. 
do. 

do.(Gr.Cairo) 
do. 

Tempeft. winds 
Clear [duft,&c. 

do. 

do. 
Opprefiive 
Clear 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

j Cloudy &; foggy 

[Ciouiy 

Clear 

'.do. 

CO, 
CO. 



( 574 ) 



STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, RAIN, &c. 
During the Month of Auguft 1801, in Grand Cairo. 



Thermometer, 
Morning. 



Thermometer, 
Noon. 



Thermometer, 
Evening. 



rr 1 



887 

88 
8 9c 
86 



8 8 



8 8 



882 
832 
8 80 
8 
881 
Ic 
81 
879 
879 
80 
879 
878 
879 
879 
8 So 
879 
879 
880 
878 
879 



Sun 



Wind. 



NW 
NW 
NW 

W 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NE 

E 
NW 
NW 
NW 

N 

N 

NE 
N NE 

N 

N 
NNW 
NNW 
NNW 
NNW 
NNW 

N 

N 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 



Force 
of the 
Wind 



98 
100 
10 

98 

95 

96 

97 
95 
96 
104 

95 
94 
94 
94 

9 1 

92 

92 

93 
92 

91 

92 

92 
90 
89 
90 
89 

85 

85 
88 

90 

00 



Sun. 



Wind. 



NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NE 
SW 
NW 
NW 
N NE 
N 
N 
NW 

N 
NNW 
NNW 
NNW 
NNW 

N 
NNW 
NNW 
NNW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 



Force 
of the 
Wind 

2 
I 

2 
2 

3 '. 
2 
1 
2 

2, 
2 
2 
2 

3 
2 

2 

1 

2 

3 

3 

3 

3 
1 

1 

2 
2 

3 
2 

2 

2 

1 

2 



695 
696 

699 

695 
688 

690 
690 
685 
692 
692 
6 90 
6 90 
6 88 
685 
6 85 
685 
685 
685 
685 
685 
685 
685 
685 
684 
6Z5 
684 
682 
680 
682 
685 
6 8 s - 



Sun. Wind. 



NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 

N 
NW 
NW 
NW 
N 
N 
N 
N 
N 
NNW 
NNW 
NNW 
NNW 

N 
NNW 
NNW 
NNW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 



Force 
of the 
Wind 



3 
1 

3 

3 
1 

2 

3 

3 
1 

3 

3 

3 
2 

2 

3 

3 
2 

2 

2 
2 

3 
2 

2 

3 

3 

3 
2 

2 

2 

1 

2 



Rain. 



Remarks. 



Clear 

do. 
Cloudy 
Clear 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 
Cloudy- 
Clear 
Cloudy 

do. ■ 

do. 

do." 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 



C 575 ) 



STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, RAIN, &c. 
During the Month of September 1801, in Grand Cairo. 



Sept. 


Thermometer, 


Thermometer, 


Thermometer, 




Morning. 


Noon. 


Evening. 





79 
79 
879 



// 
79 
879 
79 
79 
7 8 
878 
884 

8 97 
879 
878 
878 

S.76 

8 75 
8 73 
874 

8 75 

876 

8 75 
874 
8 75 

8 75 
878 

8 74 
873 
8 74 
871 



Wind. 



N 
Calm 
NW 
NW 
NW 

N 

N 
NW 

N 

N 

N 
NW 

N 
NW 
NW 
Calm 
NW 
Calm 
Calm 
NW 
NW 
NE . 
Calm 
Calm 
Calm 
Calm 

N 
NNW 
NW 
NW 



Fore 
of the 
Wind 



9 

89 
89 

9 
9 

8 c 

89 
88 

88 

88 



39 

90 

388 
3 

3 8 5 



8 3 
84 

83 
84] 

83 

384 

385 

385 
384 

383 

383 
80 



bun 



Wind. 



NW 
NW 

N 
NW 
NW 

N 

N 
NW 

N 

N 

N, 
NW 

NW 

NW 

NW 

NW 

NW 

NW 

NW 

NW 

NW 

NW 

NW 

N 
NW 

N 

N 

N 
NW 

N 



Force 
of the 
Wind 



2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 

3 
2 

3 

2 
I 

3 
2 

2 

3 
2 

2 

2 

2 

2 

3 
1 

2 

1 

3 

3 
1 

3 



685 

684 

684 

685 

684 

685 

686 

684 

6S4 

685 

6 8V 

68 J 

6,84 

684 

68J 

6!8c 

6j8 3 
679 
68c 
676 
681 
679 
680 
680 
680 
680 
679 
679 
678 

6 75 



Wind. 



NW 
NW 

N 
NW 
NW 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 
NW 
NW 

N 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 

N 
Calm 
Calm 
NW 

N 

N 
NW 

N 



Force 
of the 
Wind 



2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 

3 

3 
2 

3 
2 

2 

3 
2 
2 

2 

3 
2 

2 
2 
2 
2 
2 



Rain. 



Remarks 



Clear 
do. 
do. 
do. 
do. 

Cloudy- 
do. 

Hazy 
do. 
do. 

Cloudy- 
do. 
do. 

Clear 
do. i 
do. 

Very cloudy the 

Clear[,vhole day,. 

Cloudy 

Clear 

Hazy 

Clear 
do. 
do. 
do. 
do. 
do. 

Hazy 

Clouds- 
do. 



( 57* ) 



STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS', RAIN, &c. 
During the Month of O&ober 1801, in Grand Cairo. 



o«a. 



Thermometer, 
Morning;. 



Thermometer', 
Noon. 



Thermometer, 
Evening. 



871 
S71 

872, 

8 74 

B75 
876 

8 77 

8 75 

875 
876 

876 

8 77 
8/7 
876 

8 75 
8 75 
876 

8 75 

8 75 
876 

O t r 

873 
874 
874 
875 
875 

8 76 

8 75 

8 75 
8 6c 



Sun 



Wind. 



Calm 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 
NE 
NE 
NE 
NE 
NE 

N 
NW 
Calm 
Calm 



Force 
of the 
"Wind 



I 

4 
3 
3 
1 
2 
2 

4 
2 
2 
2 

3 
2 

2 

2 

2 

1 

2 

2 

2 

3 
4 
4 
4 

3 
2 
1 
1 



3 79 
3 79 
3 79 
379 
3 79 
3 79 
3 78 
379 



80 
80 

3 79 
78 
3 79 
3 79 
3 79 
3 79 
3 79 
3 79 
3 78 
3 79 



80 

o 
3 79 

3 

3 79 
380 

3§< 
82 

82 



Wind. 



NW 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 
NE 
NEE 
NE E 
NEE 
NE 
NE 
NE 
NW 
Calm 

S 



force 
of the 
Wind 



2 
2 
4 

3 

2 

2 
2 

2 

4 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2, 

2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
4 
4 
4 
4 

3 
2 

2 

2 



ft 



6 75 

6 75 
677 
678 
678 
678 
677 
6-8 

679 
679 
677 
78 
79 



677 

678 

678 

678 

678 

678 

678 

679 

68 

678 

677 

678 

678 

677 

679 

677 

678 

678 



Sun. 



Wind. 



NW 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 
NE 
NE 
NE 
NE 
NE 
NE 

N 
NW 

N 

S 



Force 
of tilt 
Wind 

3 

3 
4 

3 
2 

1 

1 

2 

3 
1 

2 

2 

2 

2 

2 

2 

2 ■ 
2 
2 
2 
2 
4 
4 
4 
4 
2 
2 
1 
2 
1 
1 



Rain. 



Remarks. 



Cloudy- 
Clear 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 
Hazy- 
Clear 

do. 

do. 

do. 
Hazy 
Clear 

do. 

do. 

do. 



( 577 ) 



STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, RAIN, &c. 
During the Month of November 1801, in Grand Cairo. 



Thermometer, 
Morning;. 



Thermometer, 
Noon. 



Thermometer, 
Evening. 



O 




<j 






Force 




<u 






Force 










Force 


Rain. 






X c 


Q 


S 


Su 


Wind. 


of the 




*o 

rt 


Sun 


Wind. 


of the 




T3 

nl 


Sun 


Wind. 


of the 


Remar 


ks 




s 


CO 






Wind 


a 


r~J 

CO 






Wind 


E 


tr< 
CO 







Wind 








— ^— 

1 


8 


65 




-- 




s 


3 


3 


77 




— 




s 




3 


6 


74 







s 


2 


.... 


Cloudy 




2 


8 


66 


— 


s 


2 


3 


78 


— 


s 


3 


6 


74 




sw 


I 


.... 


Clear 




3 


8 


65 


— 


s 


1 


3 


76 


— 


s 


1 


6 


74 




NW 


I 


.... 


Cloudy- 




4 


8 


64 


— 


sw 


1 


J> 


75 


- 


w 


2 


6 


7 1 


~ 


w 


I 


.... 


do. 




5 


8 


66 


-- 


Calm 




3 


75 


— 


w 


2 


6 


72 


— 


w 


I 




Clear 




6 


8 


65 


-- 


NW 


1 


3 


76 


— 


NW 


1 


6 


72 


— 


NW 


1 


.... 


Cloudy- 




7 


8 


67 


-- 


Calm 




3 


76 




NW 


3 


6 


72 


-- 


NW 


I 


.... 


do. 




8 


8 


66 


-- 


NW 


1 


3 


76 


— 


NW 


3 


6 


72 


-- 


NW 


2 


.... 


do. 




9 


8 


65 


-- 


S 


1 


3 


74 


— 


NW 


3 


6 


7 o 


-- 


NW 


I 




do. 




10 


8 


66 


— 


NW 


1 


3 


69 


— 


NW 


3 


6 


64 


— 


NW 


2 


.... 


Clear 




1 1 


- 8 


6 3 


— 


NW 


1 


3 


66 


•- 


N 


2 


6 


64 


— 


N 


I 


.... 


Cloudy- 




1 2 


8 


58 


— 


S 


1 


3 


66 


- 


NW 


3 


6 


64 


-- 


NW 


I 




do. 


i3 


8 


60 


— 


Calm 




3 


70 


-- 


NW 


1 


6 


66 


— 


NW 


I 


.... 


Clear 




14 


8 


62 


— 


Calm 




3 


68 


-- 


NW 


2 


6 


66 


~ 


NW 


I 


.... 


Cloudy- 




15 


8 


59 




Calm 




3 


7 c 


-- 


NW 


2 


6 


65 


-- 


NW 


I 


.... 


Clear 




16 


8 


57 




S 


2 


3 


70 




NW 


3 


6 


65 




Calm 




2 


Foggy 




*7 


8 


58 


- 


S 


1 


3 


70 




NW 


2 


6 


65 


~ 


NW 


I 




Clear 




T P. 

I 






5° 




Palm 




3 


7° 




NW 

VV 


2 


A 
O 


°5 




TSJW 

XM VV 


I 




do. 




19 


8 


59 




NW 


1 




68 




NW 


3 


6 


64 




NW 


I 


2 


Thund. lightr 


20 


8 


61 




NW 


1 


3 


68 




NW 


1 


6 


65 




NW 


I 




& rain P 


. M 


21 


8 


59 




S 


2 


3 


68 




NW 


1 


6 


65 




NW 


I 


2 


Cloudy 




22 


8 


58 




s 


1 


3 


68 




NW 


1 


6 


65 




NW 


I 


3 


do. 




2 3 


8 


60 




Calm 




3 


68 




NE 


3 


6 


67 




NE 


2 




Clear 




24 


8 


58 




S 


1 


3 


77 




S 


3 


6 


67 




S 


I 


1 


Cloudy 




2 5 


8 


58 




s 


2 


3 


72 




SW 


1 


6 


68 




Calm 






do. 




26 


8 


61 




Calm 




3 


69 




NW 


2 


6 


66 




Calm 






do. 




27 


8 


59 




Calm 




3 


68 




NW 


1 


6 


65 




NW 


I 




do. 




28 


8 


59 




Calm 




3 


70 




NE 


2 


6 


66 




Calm 






Clear 




29 


8 


60 




Calm 




3 


6 9 




NEE 


3 


6 


67 




Calm 






do:. 


3° 


8 


55 




Calm 


1 


3 


70 




NE 


j 


6 


67 




NE 


I 




do. 



N. B. To give an idea of the quantity of Rain fallen, I have marked the figures r, 2, 3, 4 
againft Rain, to denote the relative quantity fallen ; 1, ftands for very little ; 2, a ihower ; 
3, repeated fhowers ; and 4, continued heavy rains. On the morning of the 20th, we had 
a tremendous florin of Rain, Thunder, and Lightning, which began at two o'clock, and 
continued near two hours. Morning dews have been heavy. Intermittents and Catarrhs 
among the troops at Giza, &c. 

4H 



( 57* ) 



STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, RAIN, &c. 
During the Month of December 1801, in Grand Cairo. 



Thermometer, 
Morning. 



Thermometer, 
Noon. 



Thermometer, 
Evening. 







Force 




Sun. 


Wind. 


of the 


p 






Wind 


i 




- 




Calm 


— «— 


— 

2 


- 


NE 


I 


2 




NE 


I 


2 


~ 


Calm 




2 


-- 


S SE 


3 


2 


— 


S 


2 


2 


-- 


S 


1 


2 


~ 


N 


1 


2 


-- 


W 


1 


2 


~ 


W 


2 


2 




N 


1 


2 




N 


1 


2 


-- 


NE 


2 


2 


~ 


NW 


2 


2 


— 


NW 


1 


2 


— 


SE 


1 


2 


- 


S 


2 


2 


— 


S 


2 


2 




G 
O 








s 


1 







Calm 




s. 




Calm 




21 




NW 


1 


21 




N 


1 


2 




N 


1 


21 




S 


2 


2 




Calm 




21 




Calm 




2< 




Calm 




2< 




S 


3 


2< 




S 


3 


at 



860 

8 6c 

8 55 
856 

8 55 

860 

8 55 
859 

8 58 
860 
856 
856 
8 58 
860 
8 58 
8 56 
854 
852 

8 53 
856 

858 

860 

858 

86c 

8.55 
856 

8 53 
850 

849 
848 
856 



70 
68 
6 9 
70 
7i 

7 1 

68 



Sun 



Wind. 



NW 

NE 

NE 

N 

S 

WNW 
- N 

N 
NW 

N 

N 
NE 
NE 
NE 
NW 

sw 
s 

N 

S 

Calm 

S 
NW 

N 

N 

N 
NW 
N NE 
NE 

S 

S 

S 



Force 
of the 
Wind 

2 

3 
4 
3 
3 

3 
1 

1 

2 
2 
2 
2 
2 

4 
2 
1 
2 
1 
2 

2 
1 

2 

3 
2 

3 

3 
2 

3 
4 
2 



667 
665 
6 66 
6 66 
6 66 
665 
665 
665 
664 
663 
661 
662 
664 
665 
662 
662 
662 
662 
667 
667 
6 72 
663 
662 
662 
662 
660 
658 

6 57 
658 

660 

660 



Sun. 



Wind. 



Calm 

N 
Calm 

N 

SW 
NW 

N 

N 
NW 

N 

N 
NE 

N 
NE 
NW 

N 

S 

N 

S 

Calm 
Calm 
Calm 
N 
N 
N 
N 
NNE 
N 
N 
S 
S 



Force 
of the 
Wind 



Rain. 



Remarks. 



Cloudy &foggy 

do. & do. 
Clear 

do. 

do. 
Cloudy 

do. 

do. 

ido.(fogg.A.M) 
Clear 
Cloudy 
Clear 
Cloudy 
Clear 
do. 

do.(fogg.A.M) 
do. 

F °ggy 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 
Hazy 
Clear 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do.(cIoud.A.M) 
do. 
Cloudy 



( 579 ) 



STATE OF THERMOMETER/ WINDS, RAIN, &c. 
During the Month of January 1802, in Grand Cairo. 



Thermometer, 
Morning. 



Thermometer, 
Noon. 



Thermometer, 
Evening. 



861 

8 56 
854 
848 
844 
8 45 

8 47 
850 

8 55' 
8 50 
8 52 
8 50 
848 
848 
8 47 
8 47 
8 57 

8 57 
86. 

861 

8 53 
851 
8 52 

8 47 
8 49 
846 
846 

8 43 
8*3 

8 43 

8143 



Sun. 



Wind. 



Calm 

NW 

Calm 

Calm 

Calm 

Calm 

Calm 

Calm 

Calm 

S 

S 

Calm 
Calm 
NE 
Calm 
Calm 
SW 

S 

S 

N 
Calm 

S 

Calm 
SW 
SW 
SW 
SW 
SW 
S 

Calm 
Calm 



Force 
of the 
Wind 



■3 

55 

73 
70 
6 7 

67 
66 

64 
66 
66 
69 

7 1 

7 2 
69 

68 

69 

70 

7 1 

73 
73 

82 

7 1 

66 

63 
68 
68 
58 
53 
55 
55 
55 
56 
58 



Sun 



Wind. 



NW 
NW 
NW 
NW 

N 

N 
NW 
NW 

S 

s 

N 
W 
NE 
NE 
NW 
NW 

S 

s 
s 

N 

N 

S 

S 
SW 
SW 
NW 
NW 

w 

SW 
NW 
NW 



Force 
of the 
Wind 



3 

3 

3 

3 
2 

2 

1 

1 

3 
1 

1 

3 

3 
2 

2 

3 

3 
2 

3 
1 

4 
1 

2 
4 
4 
3 
4 
1 
2 
2 



664 

662 

663 

6 59 
658 

6 58 
660 
660 
663 
662 
664 
661 
662 
664 
663 
663 
661 

6 73 
668 

663 
662 
662 
6 6 1 
661 

6 54 
65c 
651 
650 
650 
651 

6 55 



Sun. Wind. 



NW 
NW 
NW 

N 

N 

N 
NW 
NW 
Calm 

S 

Calm 

NW 

NE 

NE 

NE 

NW 

SW 

S 

N 

N 
Calm 
NW 

S 
SW 

w 

NW 

NE 

W 

w 

NW 
NW 



Force 
of the 
Wind 



Rain. 



Remarks. 



Cloudy- 
do. 

Clear(gr.fogA.M) 
Hazy (do. A. M.) 
Clear (do. A. M.) 

do. (do. A. M.) 

do. 
Foggy 

Clear (very foggy 
do. [A. M.) 

Foggy 

Clear 
do. 

Hazy(fbggyA.M) 
Fog.the whole day 
Great fog [nearly 
Hazy 
Great fog 
Clear 
do. 

do. (foggy A.M.) 
Hazy 
Clear 

do.dur. night; a 

[strong gale S.W. 

Rainy 
Cloudy 

do. 

do. 
Clear 
Cloudy 



( 58o ) 



STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, RAIN, &c. 
During the Month of February 1802, in Cairo, on the Nile, and at Rofetta. 



Thermometer, 
Morning. 



Thermometer, 
Noon. 



Thermometer, 
Evening. 








a3 






r orce 







Sun. 




r orce 




<u 






r orce 


I 

1 Rain. 




<j> *-> 
^ rt 


c 


T3 

rt 


Sun. 


Wind. 


of the 





-a 


Wind. 


of the 





' cti 


Sun 


. Wind. 


of the 


Remarks. 




— 


JZ 
CO 

— 






Wind 


W 


-a 

co 






Wind 




Eo 






Wind 


1 
1 




1 


8 


47 




-- 




w 




I 


2 


63 




— 




NW 


4 


6 


59 




— 




NW 


1 


I 


Cloudy 


2 


8 


49 


-- 


w 


I 


2 


57 


— 


NW 


4 


6 


55 


— 


NW 


2 


I 


do. 


3 


8 


47 


— 


sw 


I 


2 


58 


— 


SW 


2 


6 


54 


— 


SW 


2 


2 


do. 


4 


8 


48 


-- 


s 


I 


2 


58 


— 


WNW 


3 


6 


56 


-- 


WNW 


I 


3 


do. 


5 


8 


49 


-- 


sw 


2 


2 


55 


— 


WNW 


4 


6 


54 


— 


WNW 


2 


3 


do. (3 Rain) 


6 


8 


46 


— 


s 


2 


2 


58 


— 


SW 


2 


6 


56 


-- 


WNW 


2 


2 


do. 


7 


8 


48 


— 


sw 


I 


2 


58 


— 


E 


1 


6 


56 


— 


NW 


I 


.... 


do. 


8 


8 


53 




s 


I 


2 


68 


— 


SW 


2 


6 


62 


— 


SW 


I 


.... 


do. 


9 


8 


47 




Calm 




2 


68 




NE 


rt 


6 


62 


— 


NE 


2 


.... 


Clear 


10 


8 


48 


— 


N 


3 


2 


68 


— 


NE 


4 


6 


63 


— 


NW 


3 


2 


Rainy 


1 1 


8 


59 


— 


S 


1 


2 


73 


— 


SW 


4 


6 


56 




SW 


2 


.... 


Cloudy 


12 


8 


51 





S 


1 


2 


72 


— 


SW 


2 


6 


63 


— 


NW 


2 


.... 


Foggy & cloudy 


J 3 


8 


53 


__ 


Calm 




2 


69 


— 


NW 


2 


6 


62 




NW 


1 


.... 


Hazy & clotidy 


14 


8 


53 


— 


Calm 




2 


64 


— 


N 


2 


6 


60 


— 


NW 


1 


.... 


Cloudy & foggy 


J 5 


8 


46 




W 


1 


2 


62 




NE 


2 


6 


56 




NE 


2 




do.(gr.fogA.M 


16 


8 


45 


-- 


Calm 




2 


65 


- 


NE 


1 


6 


61 




Calm 




1 


Foggy & rain 


»7 


8 


58 




S 


3 


2 


58 




S 


4 


6 


58 


-- 


Calm 




3 


Clear(rain3A.M 


18 


8 


44 




S 


3 


2 


60 




S 


3 


6 


55 




Calm 






Cloudy 


J 9 


8 


47 




S 


3 


2 


66 




SW 


2 


6 


61 




NW 


2 




Clear (on theNih 


20 


8 


46 




SW 


2 


^ 


66 




sw 


4 


6 


60 




WNW 


4 




Cloud.(lightnino 


21 


8 


54 




SW 


4 


2 


66 




WNW 


4 


6 


60 




WNW 


1 




do. 


22 


8 


56 




SW 


3 


2 


67 




NW 


2 


6 


64 




NW 


2 




do. 


2 3 


8 


55 




SW 


2 


2 


64 




WNW 


4 


6 


60 




WNW 


4 


3 


Rain (Rofetta) 


24 


8 


56 




WNW 


3 


2 


66 




WNW 


4 


6 


60 




WNW 


4 


i 


Cloudy 


2 5 


8 


60 




WNW 


2 


2 


66 




WNW 


3 


6 


62 




WNW 


2 


2 


do. (Rain 2) 


26 


8 


56 




NWN 


2 


2 


62 




NWN 


3 


6 


60 




NWN 


2 




do. 


27 


8 


57 




S 


2 


2 


59 




NE 


3 


6 


59 




NE 


2 




do. 


28 


8 


59 




SE 


1 


2 


62 


■ 


NE 


2 


6 


59 




NE 


2 




do. 



( 5»< ) 



STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, RAIN, &c. 





During the Month of March 18 


02, 


at Rofetta and 


Alexandria. 


Mar. 


Thermometer, 
Morning. 


Thermometer, 
Noon. 


Thermometer, 
Evening. 





. 




0> 






Force 




HJ 






Force 










Force 


Rain. 


Remarks. 


iC a 


Ih 


0! 


Sun. 


Wind. 


of the 







Sun. 


Wind. 


of the 






■Sun. 


Wind. 


or the 


£g 

(— 1 A 


O 

K 

t-H 


-Q 

C£2 






Wind 


rH 









Wind 


G 
HH 


CO 






Wind 






I 


8 






E 


4 


2 


62 




NE 


4 


6 


59 

■j y 


„ 


NE 


4 




Cloudy 


2 


8 


60 




NE N 


4 


2 


6l 




NE N 


4 


6 


J y 




N 


4 


2 


Rain 




8 


6l 




N 


4 


2 


64 




N 


4 


6 


60 




N 


4 


1 


Cloudy 


A 


8 


62 




NWN 


2 


2 


66 




NWN 


2 


6 


62 




NWN 


2 




Clear 


c 


8 


66 




NE 


I 


2 


67 




NE 


2 


6 


64 




NE 


2 




Cloudy 


6 


8 


67 
j 




SE 


I 


2 


68 




NW 


2 


6 


62 




NW 


2 




do. 


7 
/ 


8 


64 




NE 


2 


2 


68 




NE 


2 


6 


64 




NE 


I 




do. 


8 


8 


62 




NE 


I 


2 


70 




NE 


2 


6 


64 




NE 


2 




do. 


Q 


8 


64 




SE 


I 


2 


72 




NE 


2 


6 


6? 




NE 






Clear 


IO 


8 


65 




SE 


3 


2 


75 




N 


2 


6 


65 




NEN 


2 




do. 


1 1 


8 


65 




NEN 


2 


2 


75 




NW 


3 


6 


65 




NWN 


I 




Rain 


12 


8 


65 




N 


3 


2 


74 


-- 


NWN 


2 


6 


64 


-- 


NWN 


2 




Clear 


13 


8 


62 




NE 


2 


2 


69 




N 


2 


6 


63 




NEN 


3 




Cloudy 


14 


8 


62 




E 


2 


2 


7° 




NE 


2 


6 


63 




NE 


3 




do. 


15 


8 


65 


-- 


E 


4 


2 


70 




NEN 


3 


6 


63 




E 


4 




Clear 


16 


8 


64 




Calm 




2 


75 




NEN 


2 


6 


66 




NEN 


1 




do. great dews 


17 


8 


63 




SWS 


3 


2 


79 




SWS 


4 


6 


69 




NW 


4 




Cloudy 


18 


8 


61 




NW 


4 


2 


63 




WNW 


4 


6 


60 




WNW 


3 


3 


Rain, ftormy 


19 


8 


57 




WNW 


4 


2 


63 




WNW 


4 


6 


60 




NW 


4 


3 


do. & co. 


20 


8 


57 




NEN 


4 


2 


65 




NEN 


4 


6 


60 




NE 


2 


3 


Cloudy ,ftormy 


21 


8 


60 




NE 


2 


2 


60 




NE 


2 


6 


60 




NE 


2 


1 


[th.light. Strain 
Cloudy 


22 


8 


64 




NE 


2 


2 


66 




NE 




6 


64 




NE 


2 




23 


8 


65 




NE 


1 


2 


67 




N 


l 


6 


65 




N 


1 




do. 


24 


8 


65 




SE 


1 


2 


68 




NW 


2 


6 


65 




SE - 


2 




Clear 



N. B. Having broke my Thermometer, I was under the neceffity of concluding my 
Thermometrical Journal. 

4 1 



DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER 

FOR PLACING THE PLATES. 



Frontispiece, to face the Title. 

I. A Greek Lady - - to face page 24 

II. The Grand Seignor 46 

III. The Capitan Bashi - 62 

IV. The Superior of the Derviches - - - - 84 

V. The Capi Aga ------ 92 

VI. Toutoun Bashi - - - - - 126 

VII. Jaffa, with the encampment - 130 

VIII. A Dehli— Turkish Light Cavalry - 148 

IX. The Topgis Bashi, or Commandant of Artillery - - 200 

Plan of the Encampment of the Grand Vizier at Jaffa 226 

X. A Cadi Afker, or Judge - 228 

XI. Etchi Bashi, or Chief Cook of the Janissaries - - 230 

XII. An Arnaut Soldier - - - - - 238 

XIII. A ditto - ----- ibid 

XIV. A Mameluke Soldier - - - - - 242 

XV. A Seis, or Arab Groom . - - - 246 

XVI. View of El-Arish, with the encampment of the Ottoman army 280 

XVII. Grand Cairo, with its citadel, under Mount Mokattam - 312 

XVIII. A Chiaous Bashi - - - - - 326 

XIX. Rosetta, and an Egyptian Mosque — Fort Julian, with an Egyptian 

Boat ------ 356 

XX. A Lady of Grand Cairo - - - - - 374 
Map of the Author's route from Constantinople to Jaffa - 396 
A Turkish Firman, or Passport - - - 462 



INDEX. 



ABOUKIR, lake of, 358 
Absalom, tomb of, 168 
Abyssinia, information relative to, and 

Bruce's Travels, 332 
Abydos, site of the ancient, 71, 72 
Acacia, or thorn, whence the gum-arabic is 

collected, 34c* 
Admiral, a Turkish, decapitated for neglect 

of duty, 72 
Agriculture, state of, in Syria, 222 
Alexandria, ancient monument at, 359, 360 

, temple of Diana at, 422 

Almes, or dancing-girls, 376 
Ambassador, English, at Constantinople, 
fete given by on the King's birth-day, 
107 

Ambassador, Russian, celebration of the 
Emperor's birth-day by the, 3 1 

Amusements, favourite, of the Grand Seig- 
nor, 19 

of the Turks of condition, 35 

Aqueduct, at Belgrade, erected by the Em- 
peror Justinian, 5 1 

at Cairo, 378 

Arab groom, portrait of an, 246 
Arab marriage, celebration of an, 334 

sheicks, dress of the, 327 

— — towns, mostly built upon eminences, 

cause of the choice of such sites, 152 
— villages and inhabitants, 140, 151 
Arabagis Bashi, an officer of the Turkish 
army, 227 



Arabian camel-drivers, character and man- 
ners of, 242 

Arabs, method employed by them to pre- 
serve their corn from pillage and fire, 154 

, two classes of, Fellah and Bedouins, 

218 

plunder the tents of the English at 

Jaffa, 187 

Archipelago, iflands of, 111, 112, 424, 440 
Army, Turkish, the, attended by a number 

of dervises, 10 
1 encumbered with useless fol- 
lowers, 230 

cavalry belonging to the, 240 

-principal officers of the, 227 

review of the, by the Grand 

Vizier, 138 

undisciplined state of, 134 

various complexions of the 

soldiers composing the, 229 
Arnauts, character, dress,arms,&c.of the,237 

, desertion of, from the Vizier's 

army, 148 
Ascalon, 254 

, description of the country round, 59 

Ashdod, and the adjacent country, 254, 258 
Astrologers consulted relative to the proper 

time of launching a ship of war, 97 
Atmeydan, or hippodrome, for athletic ex- 
ercises at Constantinople, 35 

, grand obelisk in the middle of 

the, 35 



5 8 4 



INDEX. 



Bakers, punishment of fraudulent in Tur- 
key, 33 

Baldwin, tomb of, at Jerusalem, 159 
Banditti, formidable hordes of, in the neigh- 
bourhood of Constantinople, 94 

, measures taken to punish them, 95 

Barge, the Grand Seignor's, 96 

Barker's, Mr. views of Constantinople, 78, 

87> 99 

Barley, large consumption of, in the Turkish 

camp, 192 ^ 
Barrahcat, Turkish army encamps at, 282 
, singular phenomenon observed 

at, 283 

Bath, description of a Turkish, and of the 
processes and operations to which the 
bather is subjected, 80 

, description of a, at Cairo, 319 

in the Grand Seignor's camp at Jaffa, 

, warm, bad effects of the too frequent 

use of, 25 
Baths, public, at Constantinople, 82 
Bavaria, dress of the women in, *48 7 
Bayonets seldom employed by the Turkish 

soldiery, 240 
Bazars, account of the, at Constantinople, 32 

, good police of the, 33 

Bedouins, or wandering Arabs, character 

and manners of the, 220 

, arms of the, 221 

Belbeis, description of, 300 

, defeat of the French near, 301 

Belgrade, village and aquedudts of, 52 

, beauty of the surrounding country, 

Ben-el-hazer, situation of, 305 

— , productions of the country in 

the vicinity of, 305, 306 



Bethlem, description of, 161, 164 

, church of St. Catharine at, 162 

, pools of Solomon near, 162 

, inhabitants of, 164 

Beys, arrest of the Mameluke, by the Grand 

Vizier, 381 

, massacre of, 383 

Biram, celebration of the, in the camp of the 

Grand Vizier, 208 
Biram Courbam, grand procession on the 

opening of, 43, 104. 
Birds, catacombs of the, in Egypt, 338 
Bonaparte, inhuman conduct of, at Jaffa, 

128, 136 

, extraordinary threat by, relative 

to Jerusalem, 157 
Bosphorus,description of the,and its banks, 14 
, beautiful fountain on the banks 

of, 25 

Bostangis, body-guards of the Sultan, 244 

Boulac, distant view of, 312, 377 

, ruinous state of, 345 

Breakfast, a Turkish, 43 

British army, successful progress of the, in 
Egypt, 270, &c. 

Bruce's Travels in Abyssinia, confirmation 
of the truth of part of, 335 

Brusa, hot bath at, 99 

Buffalo, the, well adapted to Egypt, 354 

Burials, corpses of those who die by the 
plague covered with red cloth, 90 

— : , bodies of the Turks interred with- 
out coffins, and naked, 90 

Burnt-pillar, antique column, at Constanti- 
nople, 35 

Buyukdere, a village near Constantinople, 

description of, 19, 23 

, castle of, 19 

• , amusements of the inhabitants of, 

23, 36 



INDEX. 



Buyukdere, plenty of provisions, vegetables, 
&c. at, 26 

• , state of the thermometer, winds, 

&c. at, 549 

Cadi Asker, or military judge, 227, 228 

■ ■■ , costume of, Plate X. 

Cadi-Kui, village on the site of Chalcedon, 

beautiful prospect from, 103 
Caimac, an agreeable preparation of milk, 43 

— , method of preparing, 97 

Caicks, Turkish merchant ships, 15 
Cairo, Grand, and the environs, view of, 3 1 1 

, cavalcade of the women at, 328 

, details relative to the plague at, 328 

, distant view of, 312 

invested by the combined army of 

Turks and English, 314 

surrendered by capitulation, 315 

evacuated by the French, 319 

, the Grand Vizier makes his public 

entry into, 320 

, opening of the canal at, 331 

, marriage processions at, 349 

, slave markets at, 351 

•, conjecture relative to the antiquity of, 

366 

, fortifications erected at, by the French 

army, 366 

, description of the streets, houses, &c. 

of, 3<57> 3 68 

, palaces of the Beys at, 369 

— — , dimensions and population of, 369,370 

, palace of the caliphs of Egypt, 370 

, Joseph's well, 371 

, inhabitants of, their manners, lan- 
guage, and dress, 371 — 4 

, manufactures and commerce of, 374, 

375 • 



Cairo, dancing girls at, 376 

, jugglers at, 377. 

— — , aqueduct at, 378 

, procession accompanying the holy 

carpet, 382 
Cairo, Old, account of, 377 
Cameleon, dissection and description of a, 145 
Camels, 215 

, Arabian breed of, 270 

Camel-drivers, Arabian, character, &c. of, 
242 

Camp of the Grand Vizier's army at Jaffa, 
121, 123 

, filthy and noxious state of the, 123, 

186 

, warm bath in the, 131 

, desertions from the, 186, 191 

, ravages by the plague in, &c. 194 

, plan of the, 226 

Camps, Turkish, manner of lighting the, in 

the night, 232 

, exposed to surprise, 232 

Camp, Turkish, breaks up from Jaffa, 250 

; , entertainments in the, 197 

— — , removal of, 198 

Cannon, foundery of, at Cairo, 327 
Caper-shrub, grows wild in Cyprus, 1 1 6 
Capi-Aga, or chief of the white eunuchs, 92 
Capitan Pacha, ceremony of his taking leave 

of the Sultan, 8 

- , visit of ceremony to, 3 

— , visit on board the flag-ship 3 

36 

■ , character of the, 62 

Capitation-tax, oppressive, paid by Greeks, 

Armenians, &c. in Turkey, 27 
Caravan for Mecca, departure of the, from 

Cairo, 391 

Carpet, sacred, for covering the house of 
God at Mecca, 382 



INDEX. 



Carthamus, cultivated in great abundance on 

the banks of the Nile, 309, 312 
Cassia fistula, a species of, near Cairo, 346 
Castel Rosso, island and town of, 426 
Castro, or Mitylene, town and port of, 455 

, costume of the women of, ibid 

, population of, 456 

Cavalry, Turkish, arms, discipline, mode of 
fighting, &c. of the, 239 

, light, in the Turkish army, 241 

Cemeteries planted with cypress-trees, 1 7 
Cemetery, magnificent, of the Mamelukes, 
348 

Ceremony observed in reading letters from 

the Grand Seignor, 325 
Ceremony of the Grand Vizier's laying the 

first stone of a new bastion, 142 
Ceremonies at an interview with the Turkish 

secretary at war, 1 7 
Ceremonies, singular, on board a Russian 

ship of war, 89 
Character of the Turks, 244, 247 
Charcagis, an officer belonging to the Turk- 
ish army, 227 
Chaorbagis, a colonel of Janissaries, 237 
Charcoal, pans filled with, used for warming 

apartments, 79 
Charcoal, fatal effects from, ibid 
Chennecally, castles of, 61 

, description of, 68 

, manufactory of leather at, 69 

i , state of thermometer, &c. &c. 

at, 554 

Chess played in the Turkish camps, 245 
Chiaouses, or messengers, 91 
Chious-Bashi, an officer of great dignity in 
the Ottoman empire, 326 

, costume of the, ibid 

Christ, scene of his sufferings, 158 
, birth-place of, 163 



Christ, impression of the foot of, in the 

Mount of Olives, 165 
Christians, oppression of, in Turkey, 27 
Cleopatra's needle, an ancient obelisk at 

Alexandria, 360 
Coin, adulterations of the Turkish, 34 
Colcassium, cultivated by the Arabs in 

Egypt* 345 
Columns to mark the boundary of Africa 

and Asia, 272 

Compliment, singular mode of paying a, 247 

Complexions, various, of the soldiers com- 
posing the Turkish army, 229 

Constantinople, and its suburbs, brief descrip- 
tion of, 12 

, population of, 1 5 

, harbour of, ibid 

, great numbers of dogs and 

vultures in the streets of, 27 

, bazars of, 3 2 

1 streets of, narrow and very 

dirty, 33 

, external appearance of the 

houses of, 34 

, perambulation through, 76 

, hans, or residence of the 1 

merchants at, described, 77 
, views of, by Mr. Barker, 78, 

87> 99 

, mode of warming apart- 
ments at, 79 

, public and private baths 

commonly used at, 80 

, falls of snow at, on the 1 2th 

of March, 93 

■ , robberies committed there 

in open day, 100 

■ , interior of the mosques of, 

105 

Corn, mode of getting it in, in Egypt, 298 



IND 

Coulcas,an esculent root growing inSyria,2 14 

Courtship of the Greeks, 25 

Cul Caiyahsi, an officer belonging to the 
Turkish army, 227 

Cultivation and face of the country in Hol- 
land, *4o6 

Cyprus, productions of, 116 

Dancing-girls, 376 

Dahroot, on the Nile, account of, 411 
Dardania, site of, 73 

Dardanelles never infected with the plague, 
68 

, castles of, 70 

■ ■ — j state of the thermometer, winds, 

&c. in the, 554 
Date-tree, great usefulness of, 330 
, picturesque effect of among 

houses, 153 
David, supposed burial-place of king, 169 
Dehlis, or Turkish light cavalry, account of, 

149, and Plate VIII. 
Dei-vises, a number of them attend the 

Turkish armies, 10 

■ , singular religious ceremony of, 84 

■ , different sects of, 85 

Desert, effects of a storm in the, 276 

■ , march of the Turkish army across 

the, to Cairo, 287 
Diarrhoea, prevalence of, among the Turkish 

and English troops, 308, 316 

■ , causes of the, 308 

Dinner, a Turkish, 46, 1 r o 
Diseases that prevail in Turkey, 48 
produced among the Greeks and 

Armenians by their diet in Lent, 100 
Djerid, a military sport much in vogue among 

Turks of condition, 25, 35, 208 
Dogs, great numbers of, in the streets of 

Constantinople, and other Turkish ci- 
ties, 17 



E & 587 

Dourra, or Indian corn, cultivated on the 
banks of the Nile, 310 

Doves, great numbers of, in the cypress- 
groves of the cemeteries, 1 7 

Doves, large flocks of, near Korin in Egypt, 
298 

Dress of the Greeks, 24 

Greek women, 24, 455 

— — — — Turkish women, 23 

Dromedaries, corps of French troops mount- 
ed on, 124, 220 

Dysentery, many of the English attacked 
with, 21 

Easter, celebration of, among the Greeks at 
Constantinople 

Egypt, haziness of the atmosphere in, 297 

, mode of getting in the corn in, 298 

, wheat, flax, lucerne, and mustard cul- 
tivated in, 304 

, unhealthiness of the climate of, 329 

, excessive heat in, 330 

■ , method of irrigating the high grounds, 

335 

, productions of, 343, 355, 378 

, state of the thermometer, winds, rain, 

&c. in, 573 
Ekron, 254 

El-Arish,the Vizier's army encamps near,273 

■ , view of, Plate XVI. 

Elgin, Earl of, arrives at the Dardanelles, 64 

■ , visits the Capitan Pacha, 65 

, introduces the inoculation of 

the cow-pox at Constantinople, 80 
, fete given by, on the 4th of 

June, 107 
England, arrival in, *J03 
English detachment, junction of, with the 

Grand Vizier's army, 1 20 
English detachment, encampment of the, 125 



INDEX. 



English detachment affected with an erup- 
tive complaint, 132 

reviewed by the Grand Vizier, 187 

, several of the soldiers die of the 

plague, 294 

, names of the officers composing, 2 

, object of, 1 

, disastrous state of, at Jaffa, 197 

Enthusiastic volunteers in the Turkish army, 

241 
Eshtaol, 257 

Etchi Bashi, an officer of the Ottoman army, 
227, 228 

, costume of, Plate XI. 

Eunuchs, chief 0/ the white, 92 
Execution of the Pacha of Nicomedia, 105 

Fead, Major, death of, at the fortress of St. 

Jean d'Acre, 55 
Fellahs, or Arab husbandmen, abject state of 

the, in Syria, 218 

, character of the, 219, 221 

, construction of the villages of the, 

in Egypt, 296 

, wretched state of the, 297 

Feredge, part of the dress of the Turkish 

women, 23 
Fever, malignant, cases of, 503 
Fortresses, Turkish, remark on, 56 

, ancient proverb relative to, 57 

Foua, a town in the Delta, 355 

Franklin, captain, resigns and returns to 

England, 12 
Franks, manner in which they salute the 

Turks, 16 
French, cruelty of, at Jaffa, 128 
, scene of the horrid massacre of 

prisoners by, 136 
Freezing-mixture, experiment with the, in 

Egypt. 3 8 5 



Galangis, or Turkish marine^ dishonesty of 
a, 65 

Galata — State of the thermometer, Winds, 
barometer, &c. at, 555 

Gaming, Turkish soldiers, guilty of, punish- 
ed with death, 191 

Gaza, description of the country near, 262 

of the town and suburbs, 263 

, beautiful gardens near, 264, 267 

■, porch at, of which Samson carried 
away the gates, 263 

, ports of, 266 

, pyramids of, 321 

Goats, in Syria, extraordinary length of their 
ears, 215 

Germany, journey through, 486 

Grandees, precarious state of, in Turkey, 230 

Grand Seignor, favourite amusement of, 19 

', visits Chiflick, and reviews 

the English detachment, 29,. 40 

, celebrates the opening of the 

Beyram Courbam, 42 

Grand Vizier, his standard consecrated, 16 

— , officers of the military mis- 
sion introduced to, 7 

— , ceremony of his taking the 

field, 9 

'• , description of the dress, &c. 

of the troops attending him, 9 

, anecdotes of the, 1 08, 209 

, description of his camp at 

Jaffa, 121 

., character of the, 1 26 

, makes his entry into Grand 

Cairo, 320 

, tent of the, 250 

, lays the first stone of a new 

bastion at Jaffa, 142 

, receives a magnificent pre- 
sent from the Sultan, 325 



INDEX. 



5^9 



Grand Vizier's army, progress of, towards 
Cairo, 255, 259, 261, 262, 268, 271, 
272, 281, 283, 289, 304 — 309, 311 

, order of the march of, 256 

, encamps near Esdad, 257 

, encamps near Ascalon, 559 

« , encamps near Gaza, 262 

, commences active operations, 268 

, enters Africa, 271 

, encamps at Zaca in the desert, 272 

, sufferings of the, in their march 

through the desert, 273 

, encamps at El-Arish, ibid 

< , serious disagreement in the, 275 

, takes Salahieh, 278 

, encamps at Barrahcat in the desert, 

282 

, encamps at Bir-el-Habt, 283 

" , marches to Theah, 285 

, encamps at Birdenedar, 287 

— , march of the, to Kantara, 288 

• , enters Salahie, 289 

■ — , view of the march of a part of, 292, 

and the Frontispiece 

■ , arrives at Korin, 295 

, defeats the French near Belbeis, 301 

, neglect of discipline and good order 

in the, 303 

, march of the, from Belbeis to Mesh- 

toule, 304 

— , encamps at Ben-el-Hazer, 305 

~ ■ — , marches to Shoubra Shaabi, 309 

, encamps on the banks of the Nile, 

near Shellecan, 3 1 1 

, marches to Beisous, 312 

— , invests and takes Cairo, 313 

Greek marriage, 87 

convent at Nehahmene in the island 

of Scio, 443 
Greek convent, curious decorations of the 

chapel of the, 444 



Greek women, dress, manners, &c. of the, 
24, 113 

■ , many decay early, 25 

, passionately fond of dancing, 32 

Greeks, dress of, 24 

, very numerous in the European 

provinces of Turkey, 29 

, celebration of the festival of St. 

John by the, and Easter, 31, 99 

, amusements of, 36 

Gum arabic tree, whence collected, 346 

Gum mastic, considerable quantities of, col- 
lected in the island of Scio, 447 

Hans, or inns, for the Turkish merchants at 

Constantinople, 77 
HarvestsnearConstantinoplebeginin June,2 7 
Heat, excessive, near Constantinople, 20 
Hedgin, a species of the camel, 216 
Heliopolis, 315 

Henna, Turkish women stain their nails 
with a colour obtained from the, 24 

Holland, roads in, and general face of the 
country and cultivation, *497, 

Holy family, grotto in which they are said 
to have taken refuge in Egypt, 344 

Holloway, Colonel, succeeds General Koehler 
in the command of the English mis- 
sion, 200 

— — , and the officers under him, receive 

gold medalsfrom the Grand Seignor,39j 
Holy Land, progress through, 150 
, topographical account of the 

most interesting objects in the, 174 
Homer, school of, in the island of Scio, 445 
, fountain of excellent water 

near the, 455 
Horses, Turkish, description of, and the 

mode of treating them, 20, 22, 246 
, mode of shoeing, in Turkey, 22 

4 L 



5po 



J N D E X. 



Horses, food of, 22 
, Syrian, 215 

Hood, Captain Samuel, introduces many 
improvements into the Turkish fleet,62 

Houses, Turkish, description of the interior 
of, 16 

, heavy and dull appearance of, at 

the exterior, 34 

, badly covered at Constantinople, ib. 

Hutchinson, General, visits the camp of the 

Grand Vizier, 307 
, British army under the command 

of, joins the Turks, and takes Cairo,3 13 

Ibis, mummies of, preserved in the cata- 
combs near Saccara in Egypt, 339 

Improvisatori, at Cairo, 370 

Illumination, splendid at Constantinople dur- 
ing the Ramazan, 8(5 

Indian corn, cultivated on the banks of the 
Nile, 310 

Indigo, plantations of, on the Nile, 307 

, mode of preparing, 313. 355 

Inscription, Sigseap, marble containing the, 

sent to England, 67 
Ismael Pacha, death of, 254 

Jackals, abound in Syria, 267 

-, great numbers of, enter the camp 

at Jaffa, 147 
Jaffa, in Syria, description of, 118. 127 

, Grand Vizier's camp at, 121 

, storming of, by Bonaparte's army, 

123 — 129 

, inhuman massacre of the inhabitants 

in cold blood, 128 

, view of, Plate VII. 
, gardens of, 135 



Jaffa, state of the thermometer, winds, rain, 
&c. at, 561 

James, St. place where his head was deposit- 
ed, 161 

Janissaries, mutiny of the, 188 

, ceremonies on paying them their 

arrears, 189 

, origin and present state of the,234 

, best troops in Turkey, 235 

Jebigi Bashi, an officer of the Ottoman 

army, 227 

Jehoshaphat, valley of, several monument in 
the, 168 

Jerome, St. ancient building at, 15-4 
Jerusalem, church of the sepulchre at, 157 

, scene of our Saviour's sufferings 

at, 158 

• , Armenian church at, 161 

, sepulchres of the kings at, 1 65 

■ , description of the country near, 

• , site of the temple of Solomon, 

and palace of Pilate, 156 

■ , extent of the city of, 157 

Julien, fort, near Rosetta, 413 
Jugglers, Egyptian, 147, 377 

Kahnyounes, village of, 271 
Kaimakan, the British officers introduced to 
the, 21 

, inspects the troops at Levant 

Chiflick, 38 

Kaithana, place chosen for artillery experi- 
ments, 30 

Kampsin wind, effects of the, 278, 294, 300, 
3°4> 33 1 

Kiosque, a Turkish pleasure-house, descrip- 
tion of, 30 

Koehler, General, and the other officers of 



IND 

the Miflion visit the Capitan Pacha on 
board his ship, 62 
Koehler, General, death and funeral of, 
195, 200 

, Mrs. dies of the plague, 195 

Korin, in Egypt, village of, 295 

, soil, productions, &c. of the adjoining 

country, 296 

, precious stones found near, 297 

Kuchuk Hussein, high-admiral of the Turk- 
ish fleet, 62 

, origin of, ibid 

, has successfully exerted himself to 

improve the Turkish marine, ibid 

Kymak, method of preparing, 97 

Lahemgis Bashi, commandant of the mi- 
ners, 227 

Launch of a Turkish seventy-four, 96 

Leake, Captain, sent to reconnoitre the 
French, 190 

Leander, tower of, fine view of Constanti- 
nople from, 98 

Leghis, light cavalryin the Turkish army,24o 

Lentisk-tree, or dendron-scinos, whence the 
gum mastic is collected, 447 

Lepers, hospital for, in the island of Scio,35 2, 
446, 452 

, state of the patients, 453 

Levant Chiflick, description of the country 
and soil near, 20 

' , barrack at, for the English 

detachment, 19 

Limesol, in Cyprus, description of, and of 
the adjacent country, 116 

Lupine cultivated in Egypt, 295 

Lydda, town of, 203, 204 

Mahmond Reis EfFendi, character of, 127 
Mahomed, fete in commemoration of the 
birth of his mother, 327 



EX. 59 i 

Mahommedans, oppressions exercised by, on 
the Christians, 27 

Mahramah, head-dress of the Turkish wo- 
men, 23 

Mamaluke Beys, arrest of the, by the Grand 
Vizier, 381 

, masacre of, 383 

Mamelukes, origin, costume, &c. of the, 242 
Marine, remarks on the present state of the 

Turkish, 63 
Marriage, celebration of a Greek, 87 
Marriage processions, at Cairo, 328 
May-day, celebration of, by the Greeks, 103^ 
Medical art, miserable state of,inTurkey,245 
Medical Journal, or account of the diseases 
that prevailed among the Ottoman and 
English troops in Syria and Egypt — the 
pre-disposing causes, symptoms, and 
cure, 483, 515 
Mekias, or Nilometer, 319 
Melons, large, at Jaffa, 135 
Memnon, fragment of a colossal statue of,3<5a- 
Memphis, supposed site of, 337, 399 
Menouf, canal and town of, 353 
Meshtoule, in Egypt, country in the vici- 
nity of, 305 
Messoudieh, wells of, 281 
Meteorological Journal, or a correct state- 
ment of the thermometer, winds, ba- 
rometer, &c. in Turkey, Asia, Syria, the 
Desert, and Egypt ; from June 1 799, to 
March 1802, 549 
Metterhenna, a village on the. site of the an- 
cient Memphis, 399 
Mewliachs, or whirling der vises, 84 
Military Mission, sent to Turkey, 1 

, names of officers composing the, 2 - 

1 , ceremony attending their introduc- 
tion to the Grand Vizier, 7 
Millar, Captain, present from the Capitan- 
j Pacha for the widow of, 102 



592 



INDEX. 



Mimosa Nilotica, 346 

Minage, account of this singular visual de- 
ception, 283 
Mito, inhabitants of, not attacked by the 
plague, 69 

• , cheapness of wine at, 74 

Mokatam, description of Mount, 351 
Mosque of Santa Sophia at Constantinople, 

34> 54. 105 
Mosques of Constantinople, interior of, 105 
Muczins, criers, stationed in the minarets of 
the mosques to call the people to pray, 1 3 
Mufti of Jerusalem, visit from, 160 
Mummies, plain of the, description of the 

catacombs in the, 337 
Mussulmen, heads of decapitated, placed un- 
der their arm, 191 
Mustapha, General, alias Campbell, account 
of, 251 



Navy, Turkish, flag-ship of the Capitan 
Pacha, 36 

■ , little encouragement to the 

surgeons of the, 37 
, want of strict discipline in 



the, 37 

Nightingale, notes of the, heard in the de- 
sert of Theah, 284 

Nile, velocity of the current of the, 1 24 

, subsiding of the inundation of the, 386 

■ , inundation of, 349, 354 

, voyage on the, from Cairo to Alex- 
andria, 353, 408 

, observations on the rise and fall of 

the, in 1801, 402 

, mud deposited by the, analysis of the, 

407 

Nilometcr,descript. of the, at Cairo, 3 19,402 
, French inscription on the, 320 



Obelisk, granite, in the Atmeydan at Con- 
stantinople, 35 

Olives, Mount of, 167 

Olive-trees, numerous plantations of, near 
Gaza, 265 

Ophthalmia, prevalence of this disease, 
J 53> 3 I(5 

, causes thereof, 153, 317 

1 , dissertation on the causes, 

symptoms, and cure, of the Ophthalmia 

of Syria and Egypt, 538 
Ostriches, mode of hunting them, 414 
■ , their eggs suspended as ornaments 

from the roofs of the mosques, 414 
Ottoman Empire, tradition relative to the 

downfall of the, 233 
Ovid, tower of, 53 
Oxen, of a small size in Syria, 263 

Pacha, execution of a, 105 

Partridges, Egyptian, 297 

Patmos, island and town of, description of 

the, 112, 113 

, inhabited exclusively by Greeks, 113 

Pear-trees, prickly, employed as fences at 

Jaffa, 135 

Philistines, view of the land of the, 254 
Pilgrims, lake of, 388 
Pillar, burnt, an antique column at Constan- 
tinople, 35 

Plague, the, singular mode of communicat- 
ing, 96 

, many persons die of, at Jaffa, 137, 

I43> I0 4 

— — , symptoms and predisposing causes 

of, 139 

, remarks on, 202 

, singular fact relative to the, 252 

, communicated by means of a pe- 
nce, 253 



INDEX. 



593 



Plague, indifference of the Turks to the, 277 
j details relative to the, 328, 383, 384, 

393> 4"» 412, 487 

frictions with warm oil recommend- 
ed for prevention and cure of the, 487 

, cases of, 510 — 514 

, historical journal of, details relative 

to the causes, symptoms, cure, &c. of 
the, 516 

Plane-tree, immense, at Stancho, 1 14 
Police, strict regulations to prevent frauds in 

the Bazars, 33 
, wretched state of, at Constantinople, 

100 

Pompey's Pillar, at Alexandria, 359 

, erected in honour of the 

Emperor Domitian, ibid 
Pontius Pilate, site of the palace of, at Jeru- 
salem, 156 

Procession, grand, on the opening of the 
Beyram festival, 40 

, of General Koehler, and the of- 
ficer of the Mission to the Porte, 6 

. , accompanying the sacred carpet 

for the Caaba at Mecca, 382 

Prophecy, traditional, relative to the down- 
fal of the Ottoman empire, 233 

Psorophthalmy, an endemic disease in Syria, 
223 

, causes of, ibid 

Punishment, singular, inflicted upon a Turk 

for an assault, 94 
Pyramids of Gaza, description of, 321 
, dimensions of the chamber 

withinside one of them, 3 23 
Pyramids of Saccara, 337 

Quails, abundance of, near Gaza, 267 

Rackey, a spirituous liquor, 2 1 7 



Ramah of Gilead, 252 

Ramazan, or Turkish Lent, 86 

, splendid illumination on the first 

night of, ibid 

Ramla, ruins of the tower of forty martyrs 
near, 151 

, Latin convent of, ibid 

, description of the town of, ibid. 254 

Reis EfFendi, character of the, 127, 141 

Rhodes, city of, arsenal at the, 432 

■ , beautiful villages in the neighbour- 
hood of, 432 

, city of, 428 

, ancient habitations of the knights, 

ibid 

, harbours of, 429 

, ancient, ibid 

, island, description of the, 430 

■, state of cultivation and productions 

of, 43 1 

, dress of the Greek inhabitants, 433 

Rice, plantations of, in Egypt, 355 
Rickets very common in Turkey, 48 
Rosetta, description of, 356, 413, 414 

, manufactures of, 417 

, gardens of, ibid 

, noxious swampy grounds near, 418 

Rotterdam, neatness of the buildings in,*50i 
Russian captain, singular ceremonies during 

an entertainment given by a, 89 
Ryahs,denomination comprehending Greeks, 

Armenians, and Franks, 27 
— — , oppression of, ibid 

Sabre, exercise of the Turkish soldiers with 
the, 137 

Sackars, a corps, who supply the Turkish 

army with water, 303 
Sailors, Turkish, a turbulent set of men, 64 
Santa Sophia,mosque of, at Constantinople^ 5 

4 M 



594 



INDEX. 



Santa Sophia, history and description of, 54 

St. John's day celebrated with great parade 
by the Greeks, 31 

Salahieh, description of the country and in- 
habitants in the vicinity of, 294 

, entry of the Grand Vizier into, 200 

■ , Arab village near, 291 

■ , fortress of, 292 

, inundations near, causes of the, 291 

Sampson, porch at Gaza whence he carried 
away the gates, 263 

Samsoongis Bashi, an officer of the Turkish 
army, 227 

Santon, humanity and good sense of a Turk- 
ish, 160 
Scio, the island of, 441 

■ , dress of the Greek women of, 442 

, light-houses of, 443 

■ , Greek convent at Nehahmonee, in,444 

, productions of, ibid. 450 

■ , gum mastic, 447 

■ , state of cultivation, and population,449 

■ , prevalent diseases in, 452 

■ , town of, description of the, 450 

— ■ — , promenade on the sea-shore, 443, 447 

, exports from, 450 

, port of, 451 

, population, ibid 

, Greek churches, 452 

Selim III. Emperor of the Turks, is extremely 
popular, 45 

, has introduced many salutary in- 
novations, ibid 

' , description of the person of, 46 

Seraglio, or palace of the Sultan, site of, 13 

Seraskier, an officer of the Turkish army,22 7 

Serenades by Greek lovers at Buyukdere, 25 

Seven Towers, castle of, 76 

Seymen Bashi, an officer of the Ottoman 
army, 227 

Sheicks, Arab, dress of the, 327 



Sherbet, cooled with ice, 33 
Ships of war, description of the Sultan Selim, 
the Capitan Pacha's flag-ship, 3 7 

, launch of a Turkish, 96 

, prayers on board of, 104 

Shoe, horse, Turkish, description of, 22 
Shoubra Shaabi, productions of the country 

in the vicinity of, 309 
Sick, neglect of the, in Turkish armies, 492 
, means used by the Turks for trans- 
porting the, 492 
Sigscum, visit to the ancient, 66 
, marble containing a curious bas-re- 
lief, and celebrated in scripture, obtain- 
ed there, and sent to England, 66 
Sion, Mount, 161 
Slave-market, at Cairo, 351 
Slavery, two Englishmen redeemed from, 3 1 
Snow, falls of, at Constantinople on the 12th 

of March, 93 
Soldiers, Turkish, pay and allowance of the, 
24J 

Solomon, temple of Turkish mosque, built 
on the site of the, 156 

, pools of, 162 

, garden of, 163 

Sphynx, the, description of, 324 

Stancho, island of, beauty and fertility of, I r4 

, immense plane-tree in, ibid. 

Stanco, island of, or the ancient Cos, 434 
, town of, 435 

, population, and productions of the, 

435» 436 
Standard of the Turkish army, 231 

, consecration of, by the Mufti, 6 

Syria, climate, face of the country, soil, and 

productions of, 210 — 214, 222 

■ , goats and sheep of, 214 

, horses of, 215 

, camels and hedgins, ibid. 

, abject state of the husbandmen, 218 



INDEX. 



595 



Syria, state of agriculture in, 222 
, diseases of, 223 

, salutary temperature of the air of, 225 

Syrians, stature, complexion, dress, and cha- 
racter of, 217 

, abstemiousness of, 217 

Sugar-cane, plantations of, in Egypt, 355 
Sycamore-tree, qualities of the wood of, 330 

Tacta-Tepens, or board-beaters, a sect of 

Turkish dervises, 85 
Talismans, extraordinary virtues ascribed to 

them by the Turks, 233 
Tartars,employed as ccuriersby theTurks,243 
Tartavan, or Turkish palanquin, 256 
Temple, subterraneous, of Diana, at Alex- 
andria, 422 
Threshing, instead of, oxen, &c. employed 

to tread out the grain, 27 
Topgis Eashi, or commandant of artillery, 

200, 227 
Tourrah, village and castle of, 3 89 
Travelling in Turkey by land, remarks on,83 
Troy, description of the plain of, 67 
Tuff, a stone employed by the Arabs for the 

cure of the mange in horses, 352 
Turkish army, principal officers of the, 227 

, different casts of people which 

compose the, 229, 237 
Turkish breakfast, 43 

fortresses, remarks on, 56 

marine, present state of, 63 

soldiers, taught to practise with fir- 
ing red-hot shot, 29 
, sick and wounded, attended 



by the English surgeon, 39, 40 
, undisciplined state of the, 



I34> i43> 3°3 

, pay and allowance of the,245 



Turkish women, dress, manner, &c. of, 23 
Turkey, remarks on the mode of travelling 
in, 83 

Turks, general character of the, 244, 247 

Usury, case of, decided by tke Grand Vi- 
zier, ic8 

Utrecht, the works and roads of, # 499 
Villages near Constantinople, wretched state 
of, 52 

Vintage near Chiflick begun on the 4th of 

September, 55 
Virgin Mary, sepulchre of, 1 67 

Weather, sudden changes of, at Constanti- 
nople, 78, 93, 98 

Wheat, the bearded sort principally culti- 
vated in Turkey, 27 

White, Dr. inoculates himself with pesti- 
ferous matter, and falls a victim to the 
experiment, 518 

Winds, effect of the, in Egypt, 387 

Women, Greek, dress, manners, complexion, 
&c. of, 24, 31, 441 

, Turkish, dress of, 23 

, stain their nails with a 

deep orange colour, 24 

Wrestlers, General Koehler entertained with 
an exhibition of, at the Pacha of Cher.- 
necally's, 1 1 1 

Yebna, 254 

Yenecheri Agassi, generallissimo of the Ja- 
nissaries, 237 

Y enecheri Bashi, an officer of the Turkish 
army, 227 

Yourt, Turkish dish, prepared from sour 
milk, 26 

Youzouf Zia Pacha, Grand Vizier, charac- 
ter of, 126 



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